fm.05.2013

vote for your most-wanted all-new kit! p.29

Check out our readers’ best models – p.30

May 2013 www.FineScale.com

Improve your models wIth

photoetched parts add super-realIstIc, plus

fIne detaIl to your models

add ZImmer & weathIt e armor r PAGES

Aaron Skinner shows how to add amazingly detailed, real metal parts to your next project – p.24

22 & 40

Backdate a classic Navy bomber p.36

our team buIlds and revIews 8 new models!

Zvezda’s battleship Sevastopol – p.56

bonus onlIne content code paGe 5

Vol. 31 • Issue 5

Come on Down to Texas for an Event Like No Other!

EAGLEQUEST XXII June 20-22, 2013 Grapevine, Texas

Squadron would like to cordially invite you to participate in this year’s EagleQuest XXII Model Event.

This is a full range contest. Categories include automobiles, aircraft, armor, ships, figures, sci-fi/fantasy, etc., from all eras. This year’s theme is The Fabulous 50s - From Tailfins to the Cold War. The event will be held on June 20-22, 2013 at the Embassy Suites Outdoor World Hotel, 2401 Bass Pro Drive, Grapevine, TX 76051.

Please go to www.squadron.com and click-on the EagleQuest XXII banner for detailed contest information and registration form. You can also contact Richard Poulsen at 1-800-527-7427 extension 1060.

GO TO WWW.SQUADRON.COM FOR FULL DETAILS • SEMINARS • RAFFLE • AWARD CEREMONY • SHOPPING AT THE SQUADRON WAREHOUSE • SPECIAL GUESTS • STATIC DISPLAYS

Inside

May 2013 • Vol. 31 • No. 5 Online Content Code: FsM1305 Enter this code at www.Finescale.com/code to gain access to web-exclusive content.

52 22

Airbrushing & Finishing

Weathered paint for stationary Stalin Paint, pigments, and rust for a “sentinel” tank on the Siberian frontier FEDERICO COLLADA

22

cover story

24

How to work with photoetched metal Stop fretting and start bending AARON SKINNER

24

29

Your most wanted kits When FineScale Modeler readers speak, the industry listens MARK HEMBREE

36

34 36

40

shoW gALLery

ValourCon 2012 Winnipeg’s finest in annual show Backdating a Bantam Bomber Scratchbuilding and aftermarket parts convert an A-4C to an A4D-1 Zimmerit and paint for a Brümmbar Finish a StuPz IV with Italian camo BILL PLUNK

63 48

8 NEW KITS p. 52

• Academy F-4B Phantom

58

• Roden KrAZ-214B • Hasegawa Eurofighter Typhoon II • Zvezda Russian Imperial Navy Sevastopol

60

• Trumpeter Italian Puma • Sword T-28C Trojan

DARREN ROBERTS

42

WorKbench revieWs

• Wingnut Wings Fokker D.VII • Trumpeter Supermarine Attacker F.1

62

in every issue 6 8 12 14 30

Editor’s Page Scale Talk Spotlight New Products Reader Gallery

48 50 64 65 66

Questions & Answers Reader Tips Hobby Shop Directory Classified Marketplace Advertiser Index

Kit cLAssics

Addar’s USS Constitution “Ship in the bottle” from days of yore TOM GRAHAM

on the cover Now more than ever, kits are loaded with detail — and a lot of it is photoetched metal. FSM Associate Editor Aaron Skinner shows you techniques that will help you bend these fiddly bits to your will.

Get more at www.FineScale.com!

Visit our website! You can enjoy more modeling photos and feature articles, access additional modeling resources, get industry news, see previews of upcoming issues, or register to participate in discussions on our Forum. And it’s free!

subscribers: Click on “Register,” enter the customer number from your subscription label, and throughout your subscription you’ll have unlimited access to bonus features, more than 1,300 kit reviews, and a database of more than 14,000 products!

FineScale Modeler (ISSN 0277-979X, USPS No. 679-590) is published monthly (except for June & August) by Kalmbach Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187. Periodicals Postage is paid at Waukesha, WI and additional ofces. Postmaster: Send address changes to FineScale Modeler, 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612. Canada Post Publication Mail Agreement #40010760.

Editor’s Page

By Matthew Usher

The tiny parts that add tremendous detail ThiS iSSuE’S cover story is on model, and I immediately became one of my favorite detailing techa convert. Nowadays, there’s a niques, adding photoetched-metal huge variety of detail sets for all detail parts. I remember what a types of models, and FSM’s game-changer they were Aaron Skinner does a when they first started great job of explaining I had to appearing on the market stop more how to make the most of years ago. The first time than once them in his story on page I installed a set in a to retrIeve 24 of this issue. model, I started small – parts from very small – adding Thanks to our loyal readthe carpet Eduard’s photoetched ers, FineScale Modeler: In my detail set to Heller’s 1/72 25-Year Collection on workshop scale Messerschmitt DVD-ROM has been a Komet. I was detailing a great success. The twonotoriously tiny aircraft with even disc set includes every issue from tinier parts. Installing the set was the magazine’s first 25 years. Load a good exercise in patience, since I them on your PC or Mac and had to stop more than once to you’ll have a fantastic, fully retrieve parts from the carpet in searchable archive of scale-modelmy workshop (some of them may ing information at your fingertips still be there, all these years later.) – more than 200 issues with more Despite my rookie errors, the than 19,000 pages of great modelphotoetched parts transformed the ing information.

The sets are selling quickly, so to order your copy visit us at www.

FineScale.com/25DVD or call 1-800-533-6644 (Mon.-Fri. 8:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m. CDT). Outside the United States and Canada, call 262-796-8776, ext. 661.

The set costs $99.95 (US) and shipping is absolutely free anywhere in the world. Don’t miss your chance to own a copy of this valuable library of top-notch modeling advice!

Until next time, enjoy the issue!

editor@finescale.com

www.FineScale.com Want to learn more? For the latest news as well as modeling tips and techniques, visit our website at www.FineScale.com

Contact Us GENERAL

SCALE TALK

Editorial: FineScale Modeler 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612 262-796-8776, weekdays 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. CT Fax: 262-796-1383 editor@finescale.com Website: www.FineScale.com

Let us know what you think!

Comments, suggestions, corrections, and additional views on FSM articles are welcome.

Mailed letters (address at left under General) should be typed or hand-printed and clearly marked “To the Editor” on the envelope.

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6

FineScale Modeler

May 2013

READER GALLERY

Show off your handiwork! Mail digital images or prints along with complete caption information to “Reader Gallery” (address at left), or upload digital images and caption information at www.

Contribute.Kalmbach.com. We prefer unedited, “camera raw”

digital images. Photos are paid for at publication; if you live in the U.S., include your Social Security number so we can pay you. FSM obtains all publication rights (including electronic rights) to the images upon payment. Unused photos are returned only if you provide sufficient postage and packing materials.

QUESTIONS & ANSWERS

Got a modeling problem? Our Questions & Answers column is here to help. Mail questions to “Q&A” (address at left), e-mail questions@finescale.com, or visit FineScale.com and click on “Contact Us.” (For scale modeling basics, visit our website and look through our “How To” article archives.) We are not able to conduct lengthy research, such as answering questions on markings and unit histories. We publish

letters of general interest in the magazine; however, mail volume and space limitations prevent us from printing every question.

Please include your name, town, state, and a daytime phone number.

READER TIPS

Would you like to share an idea about a tool or technique — and make a few dollars too? Send a brief description along with a photograph or sketch to “Reader Tips” (mail address at left; please enclose a stamped, self-addressed envelope for the return of photos.

E-mail tips@finescale.com or visit FineScale.com and click on “Contact Us.” Tips are paid for upon publication; if you live in the U.S., we’ll need your Social Security number to pay you.

FSM obtains all publication rights (including electronic rights) to the text and images upon payment.

Editor Matthew W. Usher Associate Editor Mark Hembree Associate Editor Tim Kidwell Associate Editor Aaron Skinner Editorial Associate Monica Freitag Art Director Tom Ford Senior Graphic Designer Patti L. Keipe Illustrator Jay W. Smith Photographers Jim Forbes, William Zuback Production Supervisor Helene Tsigistras Production Coordinator Cindy Barder Group Circulation Manager Kristin Johnson Circulation Coordinator Carly Witkowski Publisher Terry D. Thompson ContACt uS

Customer Sales and Service 800-533-6644 Advertising Sales 888-558-1544 Group Sales Manager Rick Albers, Ext. 652 Ad Sales Representative Jim Hagerty, Ext. 549 Ad Services Representative Melissa Valuch, Ext. 458 SEllInG FInESCAlE MoDElER MAGAzInE oR PRoDuCtS In youR StoRE

Phone 800-558-1544, Press 3 outside u.S. & Canada 262-796-8776, Ext. 818 Fax 262-798-6592 E-mail tss@Kalmbach.com Website www.Retailers.Kalmbach.com kAlMbACh PublIShInG Co. President Charles R. Croft

Vice President, Advertising Scott Stollberg Vice President, Editorial Kevin P. Keefe Vice President, Marketing Daniel R. Lance Corporate Art Director Maureen M. Schimmel Managing Art Director Michael Soliday Corporate Circulation Director Michael Barbee Single Copy Sales Director Jerry Burstein ADVISoRy boARD John Noack, Paul Boyer, Shep Paine, Bob Collignon, Cookie Sewell, Pat Covert, Rusty White, Pat Hawkey Š2013, kalmbach Publishing Co. All rights reserved. Title is registered as trademark. This publication may not be reproduced in part or in whole without written permission from the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations used in reviews. Postmaster: Periodicals postage paid at Waukesha, Wisconsin, and additional ofďŹ ces. Send address changes to FineScale Modeler, Kalmbach Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612.

SubSCRIPtIon RAtES: U.S., 10 issues, $39.95; 20 issues, $74.95; 30 issues, $106.95. Canada, 10 issues, US$47.95; 20 issues, US$87.95; 30 issues, US$126.95.

International, 10 issues, US$51.95; 20 issues, US$98.95; 30 issues, US$142.95. Canadian price includes GST (Canada Publication Mail Agreement #40010760, BN 12271 3209 RT). Expedited Delivery Service: Domestic First Class, add $20/yr.; Canadian Air, add US$20/yr.; International Air, add US$45/yr. letters, new releases, and new-product information are accepted as gratis contributions to FineScale Modeler. Feature articles and scale drawings are paid for on acceptance. All other submissions are paid for upon publication, at which time FineScale Modeler obtains all reproduction rights unless otherwise agreed.

Instructions for submitting features, photographs, and drawings for publication are available from the editorial associate or online at www.FineScale.com/contribute.

Unsolicited material will be returned only if postage and envelope are provided. FineScale Modeler is not responsible for the safe return of unsolicited material.

Printed in U.S.A.

May 2013

www.FineScale.com

7

Scale Talk Your voice in FSM

Father-son relationship builder

Modeling has helped me build and maintain a relationship with my son after we were separated by a divorce and a jobtransfer relocation. Modeling was something we did together from the beginning and is a passion we still share.

Conversations concerning recent projects, visits to local hobby shops, and attending various contests continue to be a link between us. The photo shows the fruits of our labors after the IPMS Roscoe Turner contest in Indianapolis, Ind., in March of 2012. Modeling has facilitated a unique avenue of enjoyment in our relationship that continues to cement our time together.

- Larry Mayton Fredricktown, Penn.

Too many 109s

I have never met an airplane I didn’t like, and, yet, I’m suffering from an overabundance of Emils and Gustavs. These aircraft appear in withering array on every modeling website and in every modeling magazine. Perhaps the Luftwaffe was preternaturally farsighted and knew that a plague of Bf 109 models would follow the war only to work a sinister effect on the modeling public. I am asking for a hiatus.

Give us a few more Arados and Heinkels, or a Yak or two, to break the monotony.

- Jeffrey Teich Evanston, Ill. From broken to FSM

First, a quick note of thanks to Matthew Usher and Aaron Skinner for including my Buffalo in the 2012 IPMS Nationals show gallery in the January 2013 FSM (Page 40).

I know you had many subjects from which to pick, and I’m very pleased and humbled that my portly Brewster made the cut.

Interestingly, last May, I was headed to a local contest in the Dallas/Fort Worth area when the Brewster had an accident en route, including a broken landing gear and a partial separation of the wing from the fuselage. I thought it was over when I opened the box and saw the damage. I decided to at least attempt to make it presentable again. Apparently, it was presentable enough for FSM ! Woo hoo!

Please keep up the great work at FSM. I think your magazine goes a long way in supporting the continuation and proliferation of our hobby.

- Andy Albrecht Grapevine, Texas 8

FineScale Modeler

May 2013

Larry Mayton and his son, Greg, display their awards after the March 2012 IPMS Roscoe Turner contest in Indianapolis, Ind.

Can’t beat ‘Hogan’s Heroes’

My 20-year-old 13" color TV is my ready companion next to my modeling bench.

Hooked into cable, a VCR, and a DVD player, it provides plenty of things to watch while I clip, snip, sand, and paint. Though I often resort to watching/listening to sitcom reruns, the best fare is my collection of “Hogan’s Heroes” DVDs. Each DVD captures part of a season and is made up of half-hour episodes that are both amusing and of the right length, making it easy to track how long I have been working. “Six Lessons from Madame LaGrange,” in the fifth season, is comedy-writing genius.

- Jim Kline Perry, Ohio Music and baseball at the bench

I enjoyed Aaron Skinner’s guest editorial in the January 2013 FineScale Modeler. I’m sure most of us engage in a side activity while modeling — multitasking, if you will!

I’m a retired high school teacher.

Teaching is a job with a lot of stress. I began plastic modeling in 1969 and found it to be quite relaxing at day’s end. I am now 70 and still building. While at the workbench, I listen almost exclusively to music by Alan Parsons. I believe Parsons is a musical genius because of his intelligent

lyrics and unique arrangements. I first became a Parsons fan when I heard “Time.”

I also listen to the Diamondbacks and find baseball the perfect sport for radio.

- Chuck Ludwig Apache Junction, Ariz.

Hi from the UK

We Brits are fortunate enough to be able to get FineScale Modeler over here, too.

I’m a fairly recent convert to FSM and also Scale Auto, and really enjoy both.

Matthew Usher’s January editor’s note about scale modeling as therapy struck a chord. Modeling seems to be mostly a winter activity for me, usually kicked off by a kit or two for Christmas and starting with the “diet season” on Jan. 1. The weather is crap, I don’t get out much, and a health condition forces me to lose about 25-30 Let us know what you think!

E-mail your comments, suggestions, corrections, and additional views on FSM to editor@FineScale.com, or visit FineScale.com and click on “Contribute to FSM.” You can also mail typed or hand-printed letters to the address on Page 6.

Scale Talk Bring the noise

No domestic model makers

pounds in the first three months of every year without exercise.

I’m an early riser and usually have a two-hour start on the lady of the house.

So, between 5 and 7 a.m., I can be found at my desk/bench in pajamas, building. It’s very peaceful, with plastic card and sprue piling up around me and the cat curled up with a happy tummy alongside (well-fed cats don’t mess with kits).

Mornings are when all the action happens in our home, so, by 2 p.m., I’m back at my desk with a couple of free hours in front of me. This is when the hunger really cuts in and modeling keeps me focused and out of the fridge. I have a flatscreen TV on the wall beside me. I prefer old “Columbo” episodes, old war movies, and ’70s action films.

I don’t think I ever look up, but it’s very therapeutic.

All this stops at the end of March when I emerge for warm-weather activities, calm, happy, and much slimmer. This year I plan to build a timber garden room as a workshop.

Great magazine. Keep it coming.

Reading Aaron Skinner’s January guest edi- I fully agree with everyone’s support for Joe Sexton (“Ships in resin, not plastic,” Page 8, torial reminded me of my training to December 2012 FSM). However, the reabecome a paramedic. I failed my first lot of son we don’t have these kits is: Trumpeter is exams, and the examiner could not understand why. He wondered why I passed with in China; Tamiya is in Japan; Zvezda is in Russia; White Ensign flying colors while in the field, but THE REASON WE in England; and so failed in the exam room. on. It would be like an I said when we were out in the DON’T HAVE American manufacfield there was always some sort of THESE kITS ... turer making models noise and that it was too quiet in of Volga River tugthe exam room. I could not concen- THERE ARE NO boats. trate. He offered to let me take the AMERICAN Oh, wait! There exams again (a different test, obviMANUFACTURERS are no American ously), but this time with music manufacturers. Until playing. I passed and he couldn’t someone picks up the North American ball, believe it. we are at the pleasure of foreign interests.

As it turns out, another paramedic had On a more positive note, Frank Cuden’s the same problem and was allowed to sit A-24 in the February 2013 issue is, in a the exam again the same way I had. He word, fab! More well-earned kudos! passed, too.

- William Trochim I know a lot of modelers are the same. I Saint-Lazare, Quebec, Canada have to have either a video or music going and my modeling goes well; with nothing Minicraft, Moebius, Revell, and Round 2 are playing, I make more mistakes than it’s all headquartered in North America. Whether worth.

- Dave Birbeck Somerset, England

- Warren Tyson Blenheim, South Island, New Zealand

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FineScale Modeler

May 2013

one agrees with their subject choices is another matter. — Tim Kidwell

May 2013

www.FineScale.com

11

Spotlight Compiled by Aaron Skinner

Hobby Q&A Richard Alexander, coordinator with Wingnut Wings

N

ew Zealand-based Wingnut Wings has made a big splash in the hobby with its beautifully detailed 1/32 scale kits. I recently had a chance to ask Richard a few questions about the kits, the company, the future, and modeling in general.

Q Q First World War aircraft We try and play our cards A are our passion, and 1/32 A as close to our chest as is the ideal scale for these airpossible, but I can say craft as they are quite small in Why 1/32 scale World War I aircraft?

comparison to WWII aircraft.

A normal 1/32 scale WWI single-seat aircraft is really no larger than a typical 1/48 scale WWII fighter. The larger scale also allows us to incorporate a high level of detail.

At the same time, the larger parts simplify much of the assembly. It also makes the traditionally complicated job of rigging a lot easier. Rigging is an area which has probably prevented many prospective WWI aircraft modelers from giving it a go, but hopefully we’ve made this task a little easier.

Q

Any plans to expand beyond that subject area?

We’re concentrating on A WWI, and there are still far too many interesting subjects for us to do.

Can you give us any clues about future releases?

think it is about the kits that causes that reaction?

Hopefully, everything!

A From the striking box-art painting, detailed parts that fit together without much effort, and high-quality decals to the fully illustrated instruction manual with (mostly) easy-tofollow assembly steps.

Additionally, we include lots of extra reference material and assembly hints and tips on our website to assist modelers in getting the best they can out of their Wingnut Wings model.

that we have a fourth release of the Fokker D.VII, the BMWpowered D.VIIF, scheduled for release in late March. Later this year, we have What is the two more Fokker company’s Richard Alexander, Eindeckers coming philosophy on kit Wingnut Wings out, the 80hp E.1 design? What and 160hp twin-gun coordinator have you tried to E.IV. Additionally, we have the French two-seater do to make Wingnut Wings kits stand out from the crowd?

Salmson 2-A2 coming later this year. We’re working on We knew we would have plenty of others, but I’ll need to overcome the natural to keep them under wraps for tendencies of modelers to shy the moment. away from rigging, so we tried I don’t, as a rule, build to make the whole building 1/32 scale or WWI airexperience as pleasing as poscraft, but when I open a sible. To that end, we try to Wingnut Wings kit I want to provide accurate, highly grab my sprue cutters and detailed, large-scale models start building immediately — that are enjoyable to build for and I’ve heard the same from both experienced and novice other modelers. What do you modelers alike. By designing these models to be a pleasure to build, we hope to attract

Q

A

Q

people unaccustomed to the satisfaction of modeling aviation’s epic and tragic pioneer years.

Q

Tell me about you: How long have you been a modeler? What was your first kit? What do you like to build?

Like so many of us, I A started modeling as a kid in the 1970s. I don’t remember how old I was or what my first kit was, but I’ve been told it was some sort of small Airfix tank and I built it while sitting on the front step of our house with a mate from next door. I was hooked! After that, I would build whatever I was given or could afford to buy with my pocket money. Other pursuits took the place of modeling during my teens, but I regained interest in my early 20s when I decided to build some of the military vehicles I encountered during my time in the infantry. From then on, my interests ranged from New Zealand military vehicles, figures, aircraft, racing cars (especially those of the 1960s), and now, of course, First World War aircraft.

Q

What’s the best part about working with Wingnut Wings?

There are so many A rewarding aspects to working with Wingnut Wings that it’s very difficult to choose a single best. But I think it would have to be the feeling of satisfaction that we are creating something that provides so many people so much pleasure. It’s not often that you get the opportunity to do that in life.

12

FineScale Modeler

May 2013

Carrier deck makes perfect display

I

taleri’s 1/72 scale carrier deck section (No. 1326) is a great way to display your modern naval fighters in a realistic setting.

The major component is a 13" x 9" section of deck with tiedowns, plate edges, and part of the catapult. There is a two-part shuttle for the latter. The deck sections have a nicely molded no-slip texture.

Additional parts attach to one end to represent blast panels and can be posed erect or stowed.

Decals provide deck markings and warning stripes for equipment.

Distributed by Model Rectifier Corp., the carrier deck section costs $43.

bookshelf The first tanks face off

I

’ve always been fascinated by the armor of World War I, so Osprey’s latest Duel book caught my eye. Mark IV vs. A7V: VillersBretonneux 1918 (ISBN 978-1-78096-005-0; $18.95) follows the other books in the Osprey Duel series with an examination and comparison of the development of the British Mark IV and German A7V tanks, the strategic situation leading up to the battle, and a descrip-

tion of the combat and its aftermath.

Villers-Bretonneux marked the first time tanks faced each other in combat.

The 80-page, softcover volume is filled with images of the early tanks and will be interesting and useful for modelers curious about the dawn of armored warfare. Now where did I put my Emhar Mark IV and Tauro A7V?

Catwoman and bat-pod hit the streets

C

hristopher Nolan’s Batman movies have proved to be exceptionally popular. So, it’s good to see Moebius releasing kits from the trilogy.

The latest is a 1/18 scale Catwoman with Bat-pod (No. 938). The vehicle is molded in black plastic, appropriate given the movie bike’s color scheme.

Part count is low, but the detail is sharp. Clear instructions should make assembly a snap.

The highlight of this release is the sixpart resin Catwoman, posed riding the pod as she does in the climactic battle for Gotham at the end of “The Dark Knight Rises.” The ivory parts have good detail, including a decent likeness of Anne Hathaway as Selina Kyle. Her hands are designed to fit around the handlebars.

For more information, go to www.moebiusmodels.com. Catwoman with Bat-pod costs $29.99.

New Products

Compiled by Monica Freitag

Aircr Aft 1/32 Scale KitS

Messerschmitt Bf 109e-3, No. 3222,

$46.95. WingTech, Warbirds Series. From Cyber-hobby.com available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

1/48 Scale KitS

tupolev tu-2S Soviet medium bomber,

P-47d thunderbolt “Razorback,”

No. 48002, $59.98. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM. From Xuntong Model, available from Stevens International.

No. 80283, $15.99. Easy assembly authentic kit. From HobbyBoss, available from Squadron Products.

1/48 detail SetS SePecat Jaguar landing gear (for Kitty Hawk), No. 48210, $18.95. From Scale

Aircraft Conversions.

Heinkel He 177 landing gear (for MPM),

No. 48211, $21.95. From Scale Aircraft Conversions.

MiG-21 landing gear (for trumpeter),

No. 48212, $14.95. From Scale Aircraft Conversions.

MiG-29 landing gear (for GWH),

No. 48213, $16.95. From Scale Aircraft Conversions.

Nakajima Ki-44-i Shoki, No. 72071, $32.99. From Sword, available from Squadron Products.

1/72 Scale KitS Northrop P-61B Black Widow WWii USaaF last shoot down 1945, No. L4810,

$84.95. From Great Wall Hobby, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

Sea Venom FaW.21 with Blue Jay missile,

No. 5108, $34.95. Golden Wings Series.

From Cyber-hobby.com, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

aichi B7a2 Ryusei Kai “Grace,”

P-38l-5-lO lightning, No. 80284, $15.99.

chinese Z-10 attack helicopter, No. 87253,

Easy assembly authentic kit. From HobbyBoss, available from Squadron Products.

$25.99. From HobbyBoss, available from Squadron Products.

No. 72069, $35.99. From Sword, available from Squadron Products.

Yak-3 Soviet fighter, No. 4814, $28.95.

Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM. From Zvezda, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

www.FineScale.com FineScale Modeler magazine receives new products from a variety of manufacturers on a daily basis and we are now able to share all of them with you through our interactive exclusive FSM product database. Click on the Product News link at www.FineScale.com.

14

FineScale Modeler

May 2013

SUBSCRIBER-ONLY CONTENT More than 13,000 product listings online at FineScale.com/Products

1/72 dETAIL SETS A-4B landing gear and nose bay (for Airfix), No. 72055, $11.95; F-102 landing gear and nose bay (for Meng), No. 72056,

$11.95. From Scale Aircraft Conversions.

1/144 SCALE KITS

Japan ground self-defense force Type 73 light truck with Type 60 106mm recoilless rifle, No. FM36, $72.95. From FineMolds,

available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

SdKfz 1 Type 170 VK (German military staff car), No. MB3530, $39.95. From

Master Box Ltd., available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

douglas C-124C Globemaster II, No. 311, $35.99. From Roden, available from Squadron Products.

Japan ground self-defense force Type 73 light truck canvas top, No. FM34, $44.95.

From FineMolds, available from Dragon Models USA Inc. Lockheed TR-1A, No. 4640, $16.95.

Warbird series. From Dragon, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

Ar Mor 1/35 SCALE KITS

U.S. M24 Chaffee light tank in Korean War, No. CB35139, $59.95. From Bronco

Models, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

M1A1 Abrams with mine plough,

No. 9141, $29.95. Super value pack with US 1st Infantry Division Big Red One figures included. From Cyber-hobby.com, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

Manufacturer Directory Dragon Models USA Inc. 1315 John Reed Ct. City of Industry, CA 91745 626-968-0322 www.dragonmodelsusa.com

Moebius Models PO Box 229372 Glenwood, FL 32722 386-956-4133 www.moebiusmodels.com

Merit International 17421 B East Gale Ave. City of Industry, CA 91748 626-912-2212 www.merit-intl.com

Scale Aircraft Conversions 3795 Shady Hill Dr. Dallas, TX 75229 214-477-7163 scaleaircraftconversions.com

Model rectifier Corporation 80 Newfield Avenue P.O. Box 6312 Edison, NJ 08837 732-225-2100 www.modelrectifier.com

Specialty Press 39966 Grand Ave. North Branch, MN 55056 651-277-1400 www.specialtypress.com

Squadron/Signal Publications 1115 Crowley Dr. Carrollton, TX 75006-1312 www.squadron.com Pacific Coast Models, Inc. 2987 Wiljan Court Santa Rosa, CA 95407 707-538-4850 www.pacmodels.com round 2 4073 Meghan Beeler Court South Bend, IN 46628 574-243-3000 www.round2corp.com www.autoworldslotcars.com

Squadron Products 1115 Crowley Dr. Carrollton, TX 75011-5010 877-414-0434 www.squadron.com

May 2013

www.FineScale.com

15

New Products

Sexton II self-propelled 25-pounder,

No. 6760, $52.95. Smart Kit, 1939-1945 series. From Dragon, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

StuG III Ausf G (with Zimmerit), July 1944 late production, No. 6633, $49.95. 1939-

1945 series. From Dragon, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

T-34/76 Mod.1943 “Formochka” with commander’s cupola, No. 6603, $49.95.

Smart Kit. 1939-1945 series. From Dragon, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

ZIS-5V Soviet truck, No. 3529, $24.95.

PzKpfw IV Ausf B mit Schneeräumer System Schmidt, No. 6764, $54.95. 1939-

From Zvezda, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

1945 series. From Dragon, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

SdKfz 250 NEU mit 5cm PaK 38,

Maultier half track mit 3.7cm Flak 37,

No. 6720, $49.99. Smart Kit. From cyberhobby.com, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

No. 6768, $49.99. Smart Kit. From Cyberhobby.com, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

M109A2 Howitzer, No. AF35109, $64. Look

T-24 Soviet medium tank, No. 82493, $46.99. From HobbyBoss, available from Squadron Products.

for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM. From AFV Club, available from Merit International.

PLA ZTD-05 AAAV, No. 82484, $61.99.

StuG IV (SdKfz 167) mid-production,

No. 6582, $52.95. Smart Kit. 1939-1945 series. From Dragon, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

16

FineScale Modeler

May 2013

US GPW 1⁄4-ton 4x4 utility truck Mod.1942 with 10-CWT trailer and airborne crew,

No. CB35106, $44.95. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM. From Bronco Models, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

From HobbyBoss, available from Squadron Products.

1/35 DeTAiL SeTS

Merkava ARV, No. 82457, $73.99. From

HobbyBoss, available from Squadron Products.

L1500S German 1.5t 4x2 cargo truck,

No. 35142, $69. WWII Military Miniatures Series. From MiniArt, available from Model Rectifier Corporation.

T-154 workable track link set for M109A6 Paladin SPH, No. RE30001, $18.95. From

Riich Models, available from Dragon Models USA Inc. T-136 workable track link set for M108/ M109A1-A5 SPH, No. RE30002, $18.95.

From Riich Models, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

1/72 SCALe KiTS

Bofors 40mm automatic gun M1,

No. AF35163, $49. From AFV Club, available from Merit International.

Krupp L3H163 Kfz 72, No. 35462, $51.99.

WWII German radio communication truck.

From ICM, available from Squadron Products.

SdKfz 231 Schwerer Panzerspähwagen (8-rad), No. 7483, $19.95. Armor Pro. From

Dragon, available from Dragon Models USA Inc. Panzerfähre Cepanzerte Landwasserschlepper, No. 7489, $22.95. Prototype

Nr.1, Armor Pro. From Dragon, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

M42A1 Duster German flakpanzer,

No. AF35S66, $59.99. From AFV Club, available from Merit International.

G917T 1939 production, No. 35413,

$51.99. From ICM, available from Squadron Products.

SAS Raider 4x4 truck, No. 7481, $12.95.

Armor Pro. From Dragon, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

T-34/76 1942/43 Factory 183 full interior kit, No. AF35144, $60. From AFV Club, avail-

able from Merit International.

508 CM “Coloniale,” No. 6497, $32.

Decals for four versions. From Italeri, available from Model Rectifier Corporation.

May 2013

www.FineScale.com

17

New Products 1/350 ScALe KitS USMc M1A1 MBt, No.

NB5035, $7.50. Four kits in one box.

From Bronco Models, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

USS Greeneville SSN-772, No. 82531, $12.99. From HobbyBoss, available from Squadron Products.

Opel Blitzbus Ludewig Aero 1937,

No. 724, $19.99. From Roden, available from Squadron Products.

USMc M1114 up-armored tactical vehicle, No.

1/100 ScALe KitS

NB5037, $7.50. Six in one box. From Bronco Models, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

I-27 Japanese Navy submarine with target, No. SE73514, $41.25. From AFV Club,

available from Merit International.

USMc AAVtP7A1,

No. NB5036, $7.50. Four kits in one box.

From Bronco Models, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

German assault gun Stug iii Ausf B,

No. 6155, $4.95. Snap fit. From Zvezda, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

USMc LcAc, No. NB5029, $9.95. From Bronco Models, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

1/700 ScALe KitS

ShipS 1/350 ScALe KitS

USS Chicago cG-11, No. 7121, $34.95.

From Cyber-hobby.com, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

Soviet armored car BA-10, No. 6149,

$4.95. Snap fit. From Zvezda, available from Dragon Models USA Inc. USS New York LPD-21, No. NB5024,

$149.95. Smart Kit. From Bronco Models, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

www.FineScale.com featuring reviews, product information, photo galleries, and more!

18

FineScale Modeler

May 2013

A description of our new-product announcement and review policies is available from Product News Coordinator, FSM, 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187, 262-796-8776, fax 262-796-1383, or e-mail at newproducts@finescale.com.

FineScale Modeler is not responsible for content of external sites linked through our site. Visit our website at www.FineScale.com.

lic up

1/700 detail sets

1/72 scale Kits

ate

e 3. R

e -Us

2. D MA G at e KIN 1. H MA

Y

AS

E DE

LD

MO

iJN type 93 13mm MG set, No. WA15, $19.95. From FineMolds, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

German medical personnel 1941-1943,

No. 6143, $4.95. Snap fit. From Zvezda, available from Dragon Models USA Inc. iJN minesweeping apparatus set, No. WA16, $19.95. From FineMolds, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

Military Figures

autos

Aircraft of

Firsts by

1/16 scale Kits

1/35 scale Kits

First U.S. Navy jet fighter in Korean combat First Navy jet to shoot down an enemy jetpowered aircraft Petty charger stock car, No. MPC767/06, Rommel & staff North africa 1942, No.

6723, $16.95. 1939-1945 series. From Dragon, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

$39.99. Super Scale. From MPC, available from Round 2.

1/20 scale Kits

First jet aircraft used by the Blue Angels aerobatic team

First reissue of this 1:48 scale model kit in over 30 years!

UPDATED PARTS! team lotus type 72e 1973, No. EMSF-1 German tank crew “afrika Korps,” No.

35141, $23. WWII Military Miniatures Series.

From MiniArt, available from Model Rectifier Corporation.

003-5800, $59.95. From Ebbro, available from Pacific Coast Models, Inc.

1/25 scale Kits 1967 Gt350 shelby (molded in black),

No. AMT834/12. Contact your local dealer for price information. From AMT, available from Round 2.

GET YOURS TODAY! Available at round2models.com participating hobby stores and

autoworldstore.com!

F-9F Panther is a trademark of Northrop Grumman Systems and is used under license to Round 2, LLC. AMT and design and Round 2 and design are trademarks of Round 2, LLC. ©2013 Round 2, LLC, South Bend, IN 46628 USA. Product and packaging designed in the USA. Made in China. All rights reserved.

May 2013

www.FineScale.com

19

ARA Press The Spaceship Enthusiasts’ One-Stop Data Shop!

New Products iron Man Mk. iii, No. 930,

The Saucer Fleet

by Jack Hagerty and Jon Rogers

$34.99. From Moebius Models.

A massively detailed volume that contains complete biographies of all your favorite saucer productions: The Day the Earth Stood Still War of the Worlds This Island Earth Forbidden Planet

Christine (molded in red), No. AMT801/12,

$24.99. From AMT, available from Round 2.

Earth vs. the Flying Saucers Lost in Space The Invaders Detailed Data Drawings with cutaways.

320 Pages

Only $49.95! (plus shipping)

Fifty-three foot Trailer with reefer option,

No. 1302, $59.99. From Moebius Models. ”iron Man” War Machine,

Fantasy Figures

No. 932, $39.99. From Moebius Models.

Special Offer!

We have a limited number of The

1/6 SCale KiTS “Battlestar Galactica” Cylon Centurion,

Saucer Fleet autographed by Ann Robinson (Sylvia from The War of the Worlds). These are being sold at a $25 premium, the proceeds going to Ms. Robinson to help her recover from a fire that destroyed her home in 2011. Please inquire directly about this item.

No. 917, $39.99. From Moebius Models.

1/18 SCale KiTS

1/8 SCale KiTS

Please visit our website to order on-line.

All Credit Cards and PayPal accepted.

Call or write “info@arapress.com” for shipping options.

Sales Tax added for CA orders

ARA Press 785 Jefferson Ave. Livermore, CA 94550 (925) 583-5126 www.arapress.com 20

FineScale Modeler

May 2013

Bela lugosi as Broadway’s Dracula,

No. 904, $49.99. Deluxe model kit. From Moebius Models.

Catwoman with Bat-pod (“The Dark Knight Rises”), No. 938, $29.99. From

Moebius Models.

1/25 Scale KitS Batman (“the Dark Knight Rises”), No.

Diorama series. From MiniArt, avaiable from Model Rectifier Corporation.

1/72 Scale KitS

937, $14.99.

From Moebius Models.

carrier deck section, No. 1326, $43. From Italeri, available from Model Rectifier Corporation.

Miscell aneous 1/35 Scale KitS

Village house, No. 72024, $43; administrative building with workshop, No.

72021, $72. From MiniArt, available from Model Rectifier Corporation.

HO Scale Street section with wall, No. 36052, $37.

Diorama series. From MiniArt, available from Model Rectifier Corporation.

“the Munsters” the House at 1313 Mockingbird lane, No. 929, $44.99. From

Moebius Models.

Advertising Increases: • Visibility • Opportunity • Credibility

To advertise, call 1-888-558-1544 ext. 549

livestock set Vol. 1, No. RV35007, $14.95.

From Riich Models, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

Diorama with park wall, No. 36051, $34.

May 2013

www.FineScale.com

21

Weathered paint for st Post-shading, filters, real rust, and pastels add years to tank • By Federico collada

I

n the early 1960s, responding to increasing tensions on its eastern borders, the Soviet Union installed extra defenses. These included obsolete tanks, such as the T-44, IS-2, and IS-3, stripped of equipment that could be used elsewhere — machine guns, external fuel tanks, and tow cables — and dug in so only the turret was exposed to approaching enemies. I wanted to model an IS-3 Stalin on the eastern frontier after seeing it described in a book. I enjoyed the painting challenge of depicting a tank that has endured decades of inclement weather without much care and attention.

Starting with Tamiya’s 1/35 scale IS-3, I used sheet styrene, stretched sprue, and brass to add some detail and replace kit parts. The Internet abounds with images of Stalin tanks, and I had the opportunity to photograph one at a museum in Brussels.

I painted the vehicle medium green, then used post-shading to break up the color. I mixed black with medium green and airbrushed it over panel lines, corners, and around raised detail. For highlights, I mixed yellow and white with medium green and sprayed it on raised details, panel centers, and the upper half of the gun barrel.

Once the green was done, I airbrushed the camouflage with leather brown and post-shaded it using the same process as the green.

Finally, I airbrushed the entire model with a 1:9 mix of Tamiya dark yellow (XF-60) and rubbing alcohol.

This softened the contrasts and faded the overall finish, the first step in weathering.

Wetting the surface with turpentine, I applied a mix of equal parts dark brown oil paint and turpentine with a fine brush to recessed lines and around details. The turpentine coating helps the artist’s oils flow smoothly and makes them easier to control.

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FineScale Modeler

May 2013

A day later, I painted scratches and chips with Vallejo acrylics. Using an old, stiff paintbrush with only four or five bristles, I applied varying mixes of red brown and black to corners and edges.

Dot filters came next. I deposited spots of white, cream, orange, yellow, and pale gray on the surface, then swept downwards with a brush damp with turpentine.

For rust, I used Modern Options’ Rust Antiquing Set, consisting of a paint with real metal in it and a liquid that corrodes the metallic layer.

You apply the metallic paint, let it dry for a day, and then apply the rusting liquid. Mixing the paint with water creates a wash, or you can apply it with a piece of sponge to create a variety of results.

Adding more rusting fluid provides a saturated rust layer or extremely old rust close to white.

A vehicle abandoned for decades accumulates dust, even if rain washes it away occasionally. So, I prepared an earth wash, mixing pigments with water and applying it with a sprayer like the ones you use to mist plants.

Once it dried, I eliminated excess pigments with a brush.

I cut a piece of wood slightly larger than the model, just big enough to show some ground around the tank.

I gathered small stones to depict crumbled parts of the earthwork. I built up the groundwork by gluing pieces of cork mat to the base and pressing them with a heavy book as they dried. I covered the terrain with a mix of plaster, white glue, sand, and pigment, then pressed stones into the ground as it dried. Before the mix dried, I pressed the model in place to settle it in the ground.

To blend the ground and tank, I mixed a pigment wash of earth color pigments and water. I applied the wash with a big brush, making sure some of it overlapped the tracks. FSM

Paint chips: Using Vallejo acrylics, Federico painted chips and scratches along edges and corners.

Post-shading: Federico added black to the base color for shadows and recesses, then airbrushed a lighter shade, medium green mixed with yellow and white, to highlight panel centers and upper surfaces.

Groundwork: After building the groundwork with corkboard glued to wood, Federico covered it with a mix of plaster, white glue, sand, and pigments.

Using layers of paint and weathering, Federico turned Tamiya’s 1/35 scale IS-3 into a tank sent to Siberia to guard the Soviet frontier.

HING

IS

AIRBRU

tationary Stalin

ING & H S

Foliage: Using white glue thinned with water, Federico attached hair from seaballs (an algae) to the ground along the top of the rampart. He airbrushed the foliage with different shades of green.

FIN Meet Federico Collada

At 15, FedeRico built Matchbox’s 1/76 scale T-34/76. “It was an evening with my grandma. Even though I spent just an hour to make it, I had a lot of fun with it,” he says. “Next day, I went to the toy store and bought two more little tanks.” After he discovered Tamiya’s armor, he never looked back. “I have made hundreds of models since then, most of them 1/35 military vehicles, but some science fiction, too,” he says. A founding member of IPMS Argentina, Federico now lives in Spain, builds models, and writes for magazines (including FSM) as well as his blog, http://fcmodeltips.blogspot.com.

“Modeling has provided me hours of fun,” he says.

Rust: Yeah, it’s real. Federico used a two-part antiquing set from Modern Options. The first layer has iron that is oxidized by the second layer, creating the rust.

| COVER STORY |

How to work with

photoetched metal Stop fretting and bend your way to better models • By AAron Skinner

P

hotoetched metal used to be the province of the aftermarket — packages of metal frets designed to enhance a kit if you were feeling adventurous.

Nowadays, more and more kits include photoetchedmetal parts in the box, sometimes as alternatives to plastic pieces. Increasingly, the metal parts are the only option, forcing modelers to confront the unique nature and techniques involved in using them.

I have a love-hate relationship with photoetched metal. The fine metal parts do a better job than plastic or resin of replicating thin objects such as armor plates, engine grilles, and straps. But those advantages are often counterbalanced by fiddly parts that are difficult to handle and attach. Their true purpose, seemingly, is to drive me crazy!

But all my frustration melts away when the planets align and everything goes as planned.

The truth is you needn’t be intimidated by photoetched metal. Sure, it involves different skills and tools than those used for plastic parts. But the basic techniques are easily mastered. What follows is an introduction and overview of those techniques.

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FineScale Modeler

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Photoetched-metal safety Photoetched metal is thin and can be very sharp, so use caution when handling. The parts can take unpredictable flight during removal from the fret, so always wear eye protection. Also, consider wearing something on your feet to protect against piercing injuries from dropped parts.

On a less serious note, super glue will bond to skin more quickly than metal. There’s a good chance you’ll stick yourself to parts or the model.

Keep debonder handy to get out of a sticky situation.

Eye protection and debonder are essential safety precautions when working with sharp photoetched metal. And keep a few adhesive bandages around to stanch any bleeding!

What is photoetched metal?

The process begins with thin sheets of metal — usually brass or steel, but I have seen copper and aluminum — coated with a photosensitive material. An image of the part to be produced is projected onto the plate and exposed to light, altering the photosensitive coating after it is dipped in a developer solution.

An acid bath eats away some of the metal, usually leaving the parts attached by thin strips of metal to a frame known as a fret, 1. Sometimes the parts are left completely separate, attached to

a sticky, rubber-like material, 2. (The same kind of process creates fine circuit boards and is used in jewelry-making and metalwork.)

Modern photoetching can create relief detail, such as panel dials and vent louvers, along with scores to help make folding parts easier, 3.

Other advances include self-adhesive and prepainted parts, like those from Eduard, 4.

Many photoetchedmetal parts, like these in a set from Profimodeller, come attached to a fret by fine strips of metal.

1

3

A few manufacturers, such as Fotocut, etch the parts completely, leaving them attached to a flexible backing. They come away easily when pried with the tip of a knife.

2 Refined etching techniques allow for scored lines where parts need to be folded, and relief etching, such as the control panel detail on ParaGrafix’s Colonial Viper Mk.VII cockpit.

Eduard produces many detail sets with color, making cockpit detailing easier for those on tight deadlines or without the steady hands for painting such minute parts.

4

Part preparation Photoetching is a chemical process, which means there is likely chemical residue left on the parts. Just like plastic parts, it’s a good idea to clean the parts before construction to promote glue and paint adhesion. Due to the delicate nature of the parts, it’s best clean them while they are still attached to the fret.

1

3

To clean photoetched metal, place the fret in a shallow container of lacquer thinner or alcohol. Gently agitate the container for a few minutes, then remove the fret and let it air dry.

I’ve also heard of modelers who dip photoeteched-metal parts in vinegar for a few minutes. The mild acid may lightly etch the surface, making paint stick better.

2

Don’t scrub the fret; more than likely you’ll snag, bend, or break the tiny parts. Don’t clean prepainted or selfadhesive parts, as you will likely mar the finish or weaken the glue.

4

Before you cut anything off the fret, study the instructions for the kit and photoetched details; make notes about what you need to do differently. I typically highlight areas of concern.

May 2013

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25

Removing parts

1

2

I remove most parts with a sharp hobby knife.

A curved edge, like a No.10, works well and tends to hold its edge longer because you can use more of the cutting surface. But a standard No.11 blade does the job, too.

4

5

Photoetched-metal parts are light and tiny, and they will take wing during removal if you aren’t careful. To avoid spending a lot of time on the floor under your workbench with a flashlight, place the fret on the sticky section of a Post-it note. Lightly press the part into the adhesive before cutting it from the fret.

7

FineScale Modeler

Gently pry the part from the Post-it note using a hobby knife. Tape can be used, but I find it too sticky — increasing the risk of damaging the part while removing it from the tape.

8

No matter how close to the part you cut, there will be a stub at the attachment point. With bigger parts, simply run a sanding stick or file along the edge. FSM author Karl Logan recommends a small whetstone.

26

Nothing dulls an edge faster than metal, so keep extra blades handy if you need to do a lot of cutting. To cut the connectors, I place the fret on a hard surface, such as glass or tile, then press the blade through the strip as close to the part as possible.

May 2013

Don’t go across the edge or you may bend the part. In most cases, it will only take a couple of swipes to clean up the part.

3 Avoid using a soft surface like a cutting mat, because applying pressure will bend the part rather than cut the attachment.

6 Alternatively, place the fret inside a zipperclosing plastic bag, such as those designed for food storage. Cut through the bag to remove the part; it will remain inside until you are ready to use it.

9 Hold small parts with tweezers to remove the attachment-point nub.

Attaching photoetched metal

1 Super glue is most commonly used to attach photoetched-metal parts. Standard solvent cements work by melting the plastic on both sides of a join and welding them together, so they won’t work to attach metal to plastic.

4 For small parts, you’ll need to hold the part in tweezers to locate it. But be careful when applying super glue to avoid permanently affixing the piece to the jaws. Speaking of tweezers, don’t squeeze the part too hard or it might squirt out like a bar of soap.

7 Clear-part cement and white glue thinned with water are useful for attaching parts when you don’t want to mar the surface. Hold the part in place with the point of a knife, then touch a brush with thinned glue to the edge and let capillary action draw the liquid under the part.

2 To attach photoetched metal, hold the part in place and run thin super glue into the join with a fine applicator like a toothpick. Capillary action will pull the glue into the space, and it should set up pretty quickly.

5 Some parts are better attached with thick, slow-setting super glue. It will hold the piece on the surface as it sets, but it gives you time to fine-tune alignment and location.

8 I’ve had good luck using Aleene’s Tacky Glue.

It turns sticky enough to hold the part in place within seconds, but I can still move the part to refine the position. If I don’t like it at all, I can remove the glue with a little water. Once I’m satisfied, I secure the part with super glue.

3 Accelerator will speed drying, but it can also craze plastic or ruin paint.

6 I hold small parts in tweezers, barely touch the joining edge to a small puddle of thick super glue, then maneuver it into place. Again, be careful around the glue so you don’t permanently join the part to the jaws.

9 Clear gloss coats, including Pledge Future floor polish, work for small, flat parts. Apply a little to the area where the part will go, add the part, then draw away excess liquid with a brush.

May 2013

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27

Bending photoetched metal

1

2

Simple, straight bends can be done with tweezers or pliers. I recommend a pair of smoothjawed pliers so you don’t mar the metal. Some companies, like Tamiya, sell needle-nose, smooth-jaw pliers especially for bending photoeteched metal.

4

If the part is bigger or more complicated, hold a metal straightedge at the bend and place a razor blade under the section to be bent. Then gently pivot the blade to bend the metal against the edge.

5

On an elbow bender, the part is clamped at the bend point and the tool pivots to bend the part.

Curves require a different approach. For simple, slight curves, place the part on a cutting mat or other slightly soft surface, then roll a hard cylindrical object — a hobby knife handle works well — back and forth over it, applying even pressure. After a few passes, the part should start to curve.

3 If you plan to do a lot of bending, get a specialized tool like Mission Models’ Etch Mate.

You clamp the part into the bender, then use a blade to smoothly bend the part against the metal edge. Most benders have several shapes and sizes to accommodate odd parts and allow for multiple bends.

6 For more acute curves, use a cylinder, such as a metal rod or tube, as a mandrel. I use one that’s slightly smaller in diameter than the shape I am making so the metal’s natural springiness returns it to the right size.

www.FineScale.com 7

8

Some kits include forms to produce unique shapes.

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FineScale Modeler

May 2013

If the metal is stiff, you can anneal it by heating it with a torch until it glows. (Hold the part with a tool that has insulated handles or you will burn your fingers.) After it cools, you should find it more malleable. FSM

Subscribers can see a walkaround of Aaron’s Tamiya IS-3, as well as instructional videos on attaching, bending, and annealing photoetched-metal, at www.FineScale.com/OnlineExtras and www.FineScale.com/Videos.

In 2010, the last time we asked our readers to tell us what kits they wanted, many mentioned a 1/32 scale B-25. And what do you know — here’s HK Models’ 1/32 scale Mitchell medium bomber.

YouR Most WAnted Kits When FSM readers speak, the industry listens

BY MARK HEMBREE

A

s Mick Jagger passes 70 (and I don’t mean mph), I guess we can consider him a wise elder who once said — albeit, more than 40 years ago — “You can’t always get what you want. But if you try sometime, you just might find, you get what you need.”

That “sometime” is now. Even if you don’t need a model kit, we know there are some that you really want. Let us know what kits you would most like to see model manufacturers produce. And you just might find that, if enough of you agree, the kit you need — OK, want — may indeed appear.

The last time we asked readers to chime in on what models they’d like to see was in 2010. The results seem to indicate kit makers were listening. We designated 20 categories of various scales and subjects — and manufacturers came up with one or more kits in 13 of those categories. You wanted MRAPs? You got several, in 1/35 and 1/48 scale. Deluxe 1/32 scale kits? You got ’em. If this were baseball, you’d be batting .650. Not bad at all.

Here’s the deal Without further hesitation or consultation, think of which kit you want most. Then, visit www.FineScale.com and take our survey.

Read the directions, then let us (and kit manufacturers) know what you’d like. Don’t forget to designate scale.

For all of you who have written or called to ask us to exert our

things to remember — the rules!

Stick to injection-molded plastic kits — no resin kits or accessories, detail packages, decals, conversion sets, etc.

No reissues — new kits only We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again: Please be reasonable. Try to think of something that actually might be popular and marketable. My favorite example: I like the B-36 Peacemaker. But if I wanted a 1/32 scale B-36, I would assume I’d have to build it myself.

No crusades, no campaigning, no stuffing the ballot box.

These days, it’s easier than ever for us to spot a ringer.

Don’t be that guy. You are on your honor.

influence on the model-manufacturing industry, this is your time to shine. And if you haven’t contacted us to advocate, here is what we tell the people who do — manufacturers don’t necessarily listen to us. But they do listen to you. This is a great way to let them know what’s on your mind.

We’ll publish the results of the survey in the September 2013 FSM. In the meantime, visit FineScale.com and tell us what you want. We’re looking forward to it! FSM May 2013

www.FineScale.com

29

Reader Gallery

▲ Franklin Camargo Perth amboy, new Jersey

For his third model, Franklin built Doyusha’s 1/100 scale Boeing 767-200. His father, Paulo, took the picture, using fishing line to suspend the airliner in a clear blue sky.

▶ tim Friswell newark, Delaware

Tim detailed Tamiya’s 1/48 scale Grumman F4F Wildcat with an Aires set. He painted the plane with Testors Model Master enamels.

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FineScale Modeler

May 2013

▲ John Bailey lenoir City, tennessee

John went big with Amati’s 1/60 scale kit to model the Roger B. Taney, a Morris/Taney-class U.S. Revenue cutter launched in 1833. John used a belt sander to waterline the hull and replanked it with walnut strips. On the main deck, he drew in tar and nails with a pencil. Unsatisfied with the sails provided in the kit, John used them as templates to cut fabric replacements from an ironing-board cover. The “ocean” is latex caulk. Bob Turney photo. ◀ Paul Mahoney

larChMont, new york

Hasegawa’s 1/48 scale Ki-44, finished with Alclad II natural-metal finish and Tamiya paints: Paul says, “I found this scheme in an old Koku-Fan (Japanese publication).

There were no decals available for these markings, so I masked and painted the lightning bolt design on the sides.

That worked so well that I decided to paint all the markings.” He used an Olfa circular cutter to make masks for the hinomaru markings, sizing them to the kit’s decals.

May 2013

www.FineScale.com

31

Reader Gallery

▲ John AdelmAnn

PeostA, IowA

Tamiya’s 1/32 scale P-51 Mustang depicts Big Beautiful Doll, the steed of Col. John Landers. John glossed over Alclad II lacquer with Pledge Future floor polish and applied a water-based dark wash to bring out surface details. “You’ll have to custom-blend your own shade of red for the plane’s spinner sleeve and cowling intake to match the decal,” he says. ▶ ZorAn sIvcev novI sAd, voJvodInA, serbIA

AZ Model’s 1/144 scale JAT DC-9-32 replicates the Yugoslavian airliner that exploded over Czechoslovakia in 1972, killing all crew and passengers except flight attendant Vesna Vulovic, whose unaided descent from 33,330 feet was enshrined in the Guinness Book of Records as the highest fall survived without a parachute.

Her childhood idol Paul McCartney presented the Guinness award to her in 1985. ◀ dAve cAmPbell YubA cItY, cAlIfornIA

It’s all about supporting the troops, says Dave, who has built a series of stock cars marked with U.S. military sponsorship. His Coast Guard No. 21, driven

by Kevin Harvick, is built from Revell’s 1/24 scale 2006 Monte Carlo, painted with Testors Model Master blue, and covered with decals from Powerslide.

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SEND US YOUR PICTURES! Shouldn’t your model be in Reader Gallery? FineScale Modeler is always accepting new material from around the world.

Upload high-resolution digital images (preferably unedited, RAW format) with complete captions at www.Contribute.Kalmbach.com, or send prints or CD-ROMs to FineScale Modeler, Reader Gallery, 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612.

Be sure to tell us the kit manufacturer, model, scale, modifications, paint and finishes used, and reason for choosing the model, along with your name and address. We look forward to seeing your work! ▲ Luis DeLgaDo

Tampa, FLoriDa

To jazz up Atomic City’s 1/12 scale Mercury capsule, Luis referred to NASA illustrations and used drinking straws, electrical wires, and parts from other models for various gadgets and gizmos. The astronaut is a Tamiya figure. Luis says it took a lot of solvent to get the decals to stick to the spacecraft’s corrugated surface. ▶ Bruce WiLLiams

oshkosh, Wisconsin

Hasegawa’s 1/48 scale Fw 190A-4 Trop is modeled after a fighter flown over Tunisia in 1943, Bruce says.

He painted with Testors Model Master Acryls and used artist’s oil washes for weathering. ◀ roB aarsen

amersFoorT, neTherLanDs

MiG-21bis “Fishbed L”: “This is Trumpeter’s 1/32 scale MiG-21,” Rob says.

“The late Les Sundt inspired me to go for a natural-metal jet. I used SnJ spray metal and aluminium powder, Alclad II laquer, and BareMetal Foil.” Rob varied panels according to a MiG displayed at nearby Nationaal LuchtvaartThemapark Aviodrome. A CAM Decal sheet provides a splash of color. Find out more about Rob’s inspiration by reading “Finishing natural-metal aircraft” in the March 1996 FSM. May 2013

www.FineScale.com

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Show Gallery

▲ Matt Sinclair

ValourCon III, 2012 According to custom, IPMS Winnipeg (Manitoba, Canada) hosted its annual model contest and show at St. James Legion Branch No. 4 on April 28, 2012, in Winnipeg. This year the 2013 contest and show will be held April 27, again at Branch No. 4, with a special contest theme: “The Baby Boom Years.” Thanks to Tyrel Smith for sending these great photos. These are just a few of them. All the modelers are from Winnipeg.

www.FineScale.com To see more of these and other models from the show, visit FineScale.com/OnlineExtras.

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The tank’s name, Boom Stick, is fictional, Matt says. He modeled Dragon’s 1/35 scale M1A1 Abrams and used Alpine figures with Hornet heads, plus “plenty of photoetched metal and resin.” ▼ GrahaM hunter

Spin’s 1/48 scale Bristol M.1c got a scratchbuilt cockpit, undercarriage, and engine from Graham, who modeled the monoplane flown by ace Arthur Jarvis in two of his seven World War I victories.

▲ Angel FernAndez

Angel used Tamiya and Testors Model Master paints to dress up Italeri’s 1/48 scale F-16A Fighting Falcon in Venezuelan air force finery.

◀ Tyrel SmiTh

It’s late spring 1945 near the Rhine, according to Tyrel’s 1/35 scale diorama. In the scene are a Dragon M4A3(76) Sherman, Tamiya Willys jeep, and lots of aftermarket stowage. Tyrel used the hairspray method for battle-weary winter camouflage and treated other weathering and wet mud with Mig washes, artist’s oils, Reality in Scale “Mud in a Pot,” and Pledge Future floor polish.

May 2013

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1/48 Scale | Conversion

After seeing a photo of the first production version of the Skyhawk, Darren had his sights set on building a fighter-squadron version, complete with a shark mouth on the nose.

Backdating a

Bantam Bomber Use scratchbuilt and aftermarket parts to turn an A-4C into an A4D-1

By Darren roBerts

N

icknamed Scooter, Bantam Bomber, and Tinker Toy, the Douglas A-4 Skyhawk nevertheless proved a dependable bombing platform and was loved by its pilots.

Designed in the early 1950s and produced for nearly 25 years, Skyhawks served the U.S. Navy and Marines and were exported to Israel, New Zealand, Argentina, and numerous other countries. Once the A-4’s usefulness as an attack aircraft came to an end, the Navy employed it as an adversary aircraft for combat practice. In fact, a number of A-4s still serve in that capacity.

Originally designated the A4D-1, the Skyhawk was redesignated the A-4A in

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1962. To model the original, I started with a Hasegawa 1/48 scale A-4C, then got a Steel Beach Accessories A-4B conversion kit, which provided the correct nose and instrument panel for the A4D-1.

Getting started Starting with the cockpit, I replaced the kit instrument panel with the one from Steel Beach, 1. The rest of the front office went together according to the instructions, except for the ejection seat.

The early version of the ESCAPAC ejection seat didn’t have a “head-knocker” safety lever between the cushions on the headrest. I used 2-part epoxy putty and

reshaped the headrest to represent the early version, 2.

Major external differences There are two obvious differences between the A4D-1 and later variants: a smooth rudder and no refueling probe.

The first of these was easily handled. I filled the rudder’s ribbing with epoxy putty and sanded it smooth, 3.

Removing the in-flight refueling probe was more challenging because I didn’t want to obliterate any more fuselage detail than absolutely necessary, 4. I chucked a sanding wheel in my motor tool and set it to a slow speed, gradually removing the probe. I

1

2

Darren replaced Hasegawa’s instrument panel with one representative of the A4D-1, from Steel Beach Accessories.

3

With a little 2-part epoxy putty, Darren backdated the kit ejection seat to the version used in the A4D-1.

Epoxy putty filled the depressions between the rudder’s ribs for the smooth surface seen on the A4D-1.

Refueling probe Angle-of-attack sensor

4

5

Working slowly and methodically, Darren removed the refueling probe with a motor tool and sanding disc.

Vortex generators

The angle-of-attack sensor was sanded off and the surrounding details filled with putty.

Oil vent

Styrene blanks

6

7

Using bits of styrene, Darren added vortex generators to both sides of the fuselage. He also squared off the oil vent.

cleaned up the area with various grades of sandpaper.

The little things make the difference With the two biggest differences between the A and C handled, I focused on the minor changes. First up, I sanded off the angle-of-attack sensor molded into the port side of the fuselage, 5, and used putty to fill the engraved detail.

Next, the A4D-1 had vortex generators on both sides of the sides of the fuselage, 6.

The early Skyhawks were not equipped with chaff or flare buckets. Darren sealed the openings and sanded them smooth.

On the port side, the oil duct was molded in a circular shape; I used a square jeweler’s file to square it up.

I covered the recesses for the flare/chaff buckets with blanks from the kit, filled the engraved detail, and sanded the area smooth, 7.

The A4D-1’s anti-collision light is flush-mounted. I removed the kit’s protruding light just forward of the fin with a sanding drum and motor tool, 8. A 1.3mm clear lens from Walthers was perfect for the

A4D-1’s light. I used a pin vise to drill a mounting hole, but waited until assembly and painting were finished before installing the lens.

The final correction I made to the fuselage was to drill the cooling hole in the resin nose piece from Steel Beach with a pin vise, 9.

Ain’t no thing but an A4D-1’s wing Vortex generators — a series of small rectangular metal pieces meant to affect airflow May 2013

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Anti-collision beacon

Vortex generators

8

9

Darren sanded off the anti-collision beacon on top of the fuselage.

10

The A4D-1’s nose had a cooling vent at the very tip. Darren opened one up on the aftermarket resin nose with a pin vise.

Darren removed the vortex generators on the wings with a sharp hobby knife.

11 While the leading-edge slats on the A4D-1 had vortex generators, the configuration was different on the kit parts. Darren removed the kit’s incorrectly molded generators and made new ones.

Anti-collision beacon

Radar altimeter housing

Underwing light

Outer pylon attachment points

12

13

Two more vortex generators needed to be added near the wingtip. Darren drilled the hole for the navigation light at the same time.

The radar altimeter housing and anti-collision beacon were removed with a razor saw.

and create better flying conditions — grace the tops of the kit wings. The first generation of Skyhawks didn’t have vortex generators on top of the wings, so I cut them off with a hobby knife, 10.

And while the A4D-1 did have vortex generators on the wings’ leading edges, the kit’s molded generators were incorrectly positioned. I removed them and made my own set from thin sheet styrene. As on the fuselage, the vortex generators are mounted in a zig-zag pattern, 11.

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A set of two vortex generators is mounted on the wing next to the leadingedge slat, 12. I glued them in place and drilled a hole for the flush-mounted navigation light at the same time.

Under the wings, I first removed the radar altimeter housing and anti-collision beacon with a razor saw, 13.

I filled the hole left by the altimeter housing with 2-part epoxy putty and sanded it smooth. I also filled the outer pylon attachment points and the under-

wing lights with super glue. To finish things off, I drilled a hole for the flush navigation light on each wingtip, along with the newly positioned anti-collision beacon.

I also glued on the clear wingtip and blended it in with sandpaper, 14.

The last thing I did for the wings was fill the approach-lights lens on the port wing’s leading edge with epoxy putty, 15.

Fixing the front landing gear The A4D-1’s angle-of-attack lens was

Navigation light Clear wingtip

14

Angle-of-attack lens

Anti-collision beacon

Darren filled the hole beneath the radar altimeter housing with epoxy putty. He drilled the new navigation and anti-collision lights with a pin vise.

housed in a box mounted on the starboard side of the front landing gear. I used scrap styrene to build it and glued it in place. I finished the landing gear by rounding the wheel fork, 16.

15

16

Darren filled the approach-lights lens with 2-part epoxy putty and sanded it to shape.

Scratchbuilt from styrene strip, the new angle-ofattack lens went on the front landing gear.

Darren also rounded the wheel fork to make it accurate for an A4D-1.

Damper

Formation strip-light

Painting and final touches With the changes made, I finished construction, filled and sanded seams, and began painting with a coat of Floquil reefer white on the Skyhawk’s belly and wings. I followed this with a coat of Testors Model Master Acryl semigloss white.

To make things easier, I used a set of aftermarket vinyl masks designed for the Hasegawa Skyhawk. With these in place, I put down a coat of Model Master Acryl light gull gray topside, followed by a layer of Pledge Future floor polish to serve as a good base for decals.

An old Aeromaster sheet provided the “A4D-” portion of the Bureau Number, and I located a 1 that matched. The sharkmouth decal came from the Fonderie Miniature 1/48 scale F-11F Tiger kit, which contained markings for VF-21 — the exact squadron I wanted! The rest of the markings were scrounged from my ever-growing collection of spare decals.

With all the markings on, I sealed everything under another coat of Future and followed with a coat of Model Master Acryl semigloss clear with just a touch of flat added.

Once the clear coat was dry, I ran a thin wash of lamp black and burnt umber artist’s oils into the recessed details. I applied burnt umber pastels for oil streaks and, as a final touch, added a set of Steel Beach A-4B/C resin intake plugs.

After attaching the canopy, I glued 1.3mm red and blue plastic lenses in place for the navigation lights. I also made a formation-strip light on the top and bottom of the wingtips from self-adhesive vinyl that came from a Steel Beach 1/48 scale F-14 slime-light set, 17.

17

Navigation light

18

Darren installed 1.3mm transparent lenses for the lights after the model was flat-coated. The inside of the leading-edge slats are not painted red like they were on later Skyhawk variants.

With a steady hand and steely nerves, Darren risked his finished model and added the antiflutter mechanism to the rudder.

But I wasn’t done ...

After adding the final details, Darren had exactly what he wanted: an early-production Skyhawk dressed in fighter-squadron markings with a great-looking shark mouth!

I found out after finishing the model that A4D-1s had a damping mechanism on the rudder to eliminate flutter. So, using bits of styrene, I scratchbuilt the damper and was able to install it without ruining the Skyhawk’s finish, 18.

Let that experience be a lesson to you: Just when you think you’re done, there’s always another detail on your model you can improve. FSM

RefeRences

A-4 Skyhawk Walk Around No. 41, Lou Drendel, Squadron/Signal, ISBN 978-0-89747-499-3

May 2013

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1/35 Scale | Construction

The Brummbär’s pugnacious appearance appealed to Bill Plunk — he just had to have one in his collection of World War II German armor.

Zimmerit and paint for a Brummbär Finish a StuPz IV with Italian camouflage

By Bill Plunk

S

elf-propelled artillery vehicles have always fascinated me with a certain “so ugly they’re beautiful” charm.

The Sturmpanzer IV (SdKfz 166) Brummbär (Grizzly Bear) definitely was one of those, in my view. Mounting a 15cm gun designed essentially as a building-demolisher or bunkerbuster for close-in urban fighting, the Brummbär had thick slabsided armor and a uniquely stubby look. So, I wanted Dragon’s mid-production Brummbär (kit No. 6460) for my collection.

In mid-production, these vehicles were covered with Zimmerit (a nonmetallic, patterned plaster meant to thwart magnetically attached explosive charges). So, to supplement the kit, I chose 40

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Atak’s resin Zimmerit set (No. 35044) and replaced the kit’s static “Magic Tracks” with Modelkasten workable tracks (No. SK-18) to build a command vehicle (Befehlswagen, or BfWeg) in service with Sturmpanzerabteilung (StuPzAbt) 216 in Italy in 1944.

From the wheels up Work began with cleaning up the road-wheel halves with a sanding stick to remove fine mold seams and replicate worn tires. I assembled the sprockets and idlers and a short section of eight track links to test-fit, 1. Given a choice, I selected the simple style of steel return rollers according to my photo reference.

Hollowed exhaust

1

2

Bill began with road wheels, idlers, and sprockets, removing mold lines and test-fitting track links.

Towing pintle

Zimmerit

At the rear of the hull, he pieced in resin Zimmerit and hollowed out the exhaust with a pin vise.

Squadron White putty

3

4

Rather than trying to fit details on the front plates, Atak’s Zimmerit set provides its own plates to replace the kit parts. Bill smoothed the plates in with putty.

Atak’s resin Zimmerit (the lighter gray) surrounds major parts of the suspension.

Rear guards

Engine deck

Atak Zimmerit

5

6

For ease of construction, Bill left the rear mudguards off until he had leveled up the fenders.

Going up: Bill attached upper hull pieces, adding more Zimmerit to them.

Placing the engine deck at this point made it easier to properly locate the casemate.

Next came the lower hull. The Atak Zimmerit is cast in thin resin panels that require minor trimming and fitting. The set also includes resin replacement parts for complex areas that can’t easily be covered with panels. I used Gator Grip, a slow-working acrylic binder glue, to place the panels. Then I applied liquid styrene glue around the edges of the panels and used finger pressure to ensure a good bond; a few areas required super glue gel at the edges.

I installed the exhaust and heavy-duty tow pintle on the rear hull plate, 2, hollowing the exhaust pipe with a pin vise. Upfront, 3, I used the resin replacement glacis plate with its brake-access hatches and attached it with super glue gel. Squadron White putty

filled small gaps at the nose. Adding the suspension elements completed this part of the lower hull, 4.

Upper hull The next step was the fenders. Both the front and rear mud flaps received their Zimmerit panels; I attached the front mud flaps to the fenders but temporarily left the rear flaps off for an easier fit. I mounted the fenders with a combination of tube and liquid styrene cement along with finger pressure, and checked as the glue set to make sure they were level and properly positioned. Then I added the rear flaps, 5.

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7

Smoothed with putty

8

Bill sanded, trimmed, and fiddled with the ballmount collar to seat it properly on the gun assembly.

The kit’s casemate comes as a single piece, but the Zimmerit panels are separate. Bill smoothed gaps between them with putty.

9 Like the gun’s ball-mount collar, the Ataksupplied outer collar had to be shaved and shaped to fit.

Resin hatches Masks

Antenna base

10

11

Atak replacement parts covered the aft hatches. Once they were on, Bill installed the base and mount for the star antenna.

Ready for paint: Bill glued down the roof, attached a few more fiddly bits, and masked clear parts with Blu-Tack.

Italian dark brown Gunmetal

Base color

12 Bill painted the road wheels in three steps: He primed with Italian dark brown; airbrushed the rims gunmetal; and airbrushed through a circle template to paint the rims with the base color.

Topside, I fitted the gun mount in the lower hull and added the rear engine deck before working on the casemate. I replaced the kit’s rear plate with an Atak resin piece and Zimmerit panels on the deck’s upper sides, 6. The crew step plate and exhaust shield were also added at this stage. Then I attached the engine deck to the lower hull.

With no detail inside them, I decided not to display the hatches open. Instead, I focused on getting the gun together and in the correct position with the casemate. Test fits revealed an issue with the ball-mount collar; sanding and trimming with a No. 11 blade and round needle file finally seated it on the gun, 7.

I added the resin Zimmerit panels to the one-piece hollow casemate before mounting it on the hull, filling gaps with Squadron White putty (thinned with liquid cement and applied with a small brush) and lightly sanding the edges, 8. The resin replacement for the outer collar of the gun mount also had to be trimmed to fit, 9.

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I used the resin replacement parts on the aft crew hatches, too, 10, then added the “star” antenna base for the command vehicle and .5mm solder to simulate its cable.

Next, I installed the gun and casemate on the hull. A combination of tube cement, liquid cement, finger pressure, and strategically-placed rubber bands produced a good join. I set it aside to allow the glue to cure before proceeding.

All that remained prior to painting was to glue the casemate roof and attach the remaining details to the hull exterior. I masked the driver’s periscope and the scopes/sights on the hull roof with bits of Blu-Tack poster putty to protect their clear faces during painting, 11.

Primary painting Except where noted otherwise, I painted the entire vehicle with Testors Model Master enamels.

I primed the road wheels and running gear Italian dark brown, 12, then airbrushed the rubber rims of the road wheels with gunmetal. I airbrushed through a circle template to paint the hubs with the base color.

I airbrushed a primer coat of the same Italian dark brown on the hull to check the seams and putty work and to ensure there was no plastic left bare, 13. The vehicle’s base coat came next: a 1:1 mix of light gray and panzer dunkelgelb, 14.

I airbrushed the camouflage freehand with a 1:1 mix of leather and military brown, 15. A light pass with a very thin mix of the base color, airbrushed from about 12" out, faded and blended the pattern into the background, 16.

After installing the road wheels and mounting the spares on the rear hull, I added a track-changing tool and jack block to the left side and tow cables to the right side, 17, using the kit-supplied cable ends and lengths of crochet thread in place of the kit’s braided wire. To prevent fuzz on the thread, I dipped it in Pledge

13

14

Bill uses Italian dark brown enamel for primer. The dark primer slightly deepens recesses and shadowy areas, and it can reveal flaws in seams.

The base coat is equal parts light gray and panzer dunkelgelb.

15

16

Italian flavor: Bill free-handed the camo pattern, airbrushing a mix of leather and military brown.

A light, thin dusting of the base color helped the camouflage blend in.

Spare road wheels

17

Trackchanging tool

Thread

Jack block

Kit parts

Tool time: With the base color and camouflage applied, Bill began mounting more details on the hull and fenders. He kept the kit’s cable ends but used crochet thread for cable.

18

19

20

Bill got fancy with details on the muffler shield and exhaust, layering paint and washes to give it a heat-distorted, corroded look, and using pastels to depict soot.

More weathering was applied to the spare tracks on the front of the hull; Bill made them rustier than the active track, as they should be.

An over-coat of Pledge Future floor polish provides a receptive surface for decals, but it took Solvaset decal solution to soften them enough to sink them into the Zimmerit.

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21

22

Now that Zimmerit pops! A thin raw umber wash increases contrast between high and low spots.

It doesn’t look right, but it is when it’s finished: Applying a dot filter livens up and varies a one- or two-color scheme and softens the contrast of a dark wash.

23

24

Compare with Photo 22: You can see how subtle yet effective dot filters are.

Pinwashes are applied selectively to single out details such as rivets.

Future floor polish and let it air dry. This also stiffened it, though it remained flexible enough to pose. I painted the cables as well as the scopes and sights on the roof with nonbuffing Metalizer gunmetal and dry-brushed steel.

I gave the exhaust a base coat of Metalizer gunmetal and sparingly applied washes of thinned rust and burnt umber artist pastels.

Black artist pastels at the mouth of the exhaust and the curved heat shield replicated soot, 18.

To detail the spare track runs on the front hull, I base-coated them with Metalizer gunmetal, lightly dry-brushing them with steel followed by a rust wash, 19. (I painted the active tracks the same way, but without the rust wash.) I used a fine brush and nonbuffing Metalizer steel to pick out bits of bare metal on the drive sprockets, idlers, and return rollers where they would contact the tracks, following with dry-brushed burnt umber to add variety and dim the bright steel.

The stark effects of a dark wash are softened by “dot filters,” thin layers of paint that lend depth to colors. I applied small dabs of enamels — panzer dunkelgelb, flat white, and raw sienna — section by section to the upper hull, then blended them with a squaretip brush lightly dampened with thinner, 22. Normally, I would use downward strokes to create a streaked effect. But here I followed the Zimmerit pattern. The tint is subtle but has a unifying effect, 23.

Next, a pinwash of burnt umber brought details into contrast, 24. You can adjust or correct with clean thinner and a small 10/0 brush to remove any blooming or excess, 25. When the pinwash was complete, the entire vehicle received a coat of Testors Model Master lusterless flat clear lacquer from a spray can.

Markings, filters, and pinwashes I airbrushed a sealant coat of Future to prepare the hull surfaces for markings, washes, and weathering. Walther’s Solvaset induced the kit’s decals to conform to the Zimmerit; when that had dried, an over-coat of Future sealed them, 20. An overall wash of a 9:1 mixture of thinner/enamel raw umber deepened surface details, 21.

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Weathering from the ground up Starting with the lower hull, I weathered with Mig dark mud pigments mixed with tap water and a drop of liquid dishwashing soap (to break the surface tension so it would flow freely), 26. I let this muddy mixture air-dry, then removed excess pigment with a round, stiff-bristled brush. I could make further adjustments with wet cotton swabs to remove or spread the mud, adding another layer of weathering, 27.

I assembled two runs of workable links (99 links per side) using

25

26

You can adjust or correct a pinwash easily with a little thinner in a clean brush to remove pooled or excess wash.

Weathering with pigments begins under the fenders, where mud buildup is heaviest. This is a good place to experiment, too, where it is less visible than if it were on the outer hull.

27

28

If the pigment is too heavy, you can remove it with a damp cotton swab or simply knock it off with a stiff brush after it dries.

Modelkasten’s workable, individual-length tracks come with a jig for construction (right).

the Modelkasten-provided jig, 28. I airbrushed the tracks with a base coat of burnt umber enamel, then heavily dry-brushed with steel, 29. Brushing on a 9:1 mix of thinner and raw umber dulled the steel without removing the metallic sheen, 30.

The tracks received a separate pigment treatment using the same techniques as on the lower hull, but with Mig dry mud, 31.

Once the tracks were weathered and installed along with the sprockets, I applied dry pigments (Mig dry mud again) to the lower hull, road wheels, fender edges, spare tracks, and spare road wheels to create a covering of dust, 32. I also applied some black artist’s pastels inside the main gun’s muzzle to darken and deepen it, 33.

Antenna up, model done Using brass antennas from RB Models, I cut down one of them to the length required to use it with the star antenna provided in the kit; I drilled out the antenna base with a No. 76 finger drill to accept the RB mast. After mounting the antennas with tiny touches of super glue, I painted them with nonbuffing Metalizer gunmetal, 34.

I checked my work by shooting a few walkaround photos, looking for anything I might have missed. (The camera doesn’t lie!)

Then, with the last of the photos taken, my Brummbär finally took its rightful place in my display cabinet. (continued)

29 Bill painted the track runs burnt umber and followed with a generous drybrushing of steel.

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30

31

Finishing with a watery thin coat of raw umber blends the dry-brushing, but the tracks’ metallic look remains.

Tracks wouldn’t be tracks if they didn’t pick up mud. Bill uses a lighter shade of mud-colored pigment than on the lower hull. Spreading it around after it dried made it look more realistic.

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33

Mig dry mud pigment overall gave the vehicle a road-worthy layer of dust.

Black powdered pastel made the gun look more like something to be reckoned with.

SourceS

Resin Zimmerit set, Atak, www.atakmodel.com.pl, available from Roll Models, 763-545-0399, www.rollmodels.net Workable individual-link tracks, Modelkasten, www.modelkasten.com

34 Bill’s Sturmpanzer IV is ready to invade his display space. It’s beautiful, but not pretty — that’s the way he likes his Brummbärs! FSM 46

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Questions & Answers A clinic for your modeling problems

By Aaron Skinner

Future’s purpose Q I am curious about your readers’ fixation

with dipping clear, prepared parts in Pledge Future floor polish. What is the purpose? Is there a natural wax in the product, or is there a specific polymer that interacts with the polymer of the clear parts and bonds with and protects the plastic? Does the practice have a foundation in sound science, or, was someone saying, “This is cool,” and everyone else followed along?

Maybe it’s time for a qualitative investigation of this practice using the scientific method.

– David Smith Federal Way, Wash.

A Pledge Future floor polish, made by S.C. Johnson, is a clear acrylic coating that started its history in modeling when someone discovered it was a great clear gloss for finishing models — it’s relatively inexpensive, levels well as it dries, and creates a solid covering that protects paint against weathering solutions. It is also neutral, so can be used over enamels, lacquers, and acrylic paints.

I don’t know when the trend of dipping clear parts in Future got started — the earliest reference in FSM is 1995 — but it does have serious advantages. It eliminates minor blemishes and improves the overall clarity of the clear parts. Plus, it makes it easier to remove masking materials, especially adhesive foils. It doesn’t chemically bond with the parts and in fact can be removed with Windex (or similar window cleaners) if you aren’t happy with the results. There also is a protective quality to using the product this way: Future prevents super glue fumes from fogging clear plastic.

that the can could rupture. I’d dispose of the can immediately, but don’t just toss it in your household trash.

Contact your local waste management service or dump to find out what they recommend for disposal. Empty cans can be thrown away normally.

Can masking tape mar paint?

Q I’ve had this happen on a few models: I

paint the base coat with flat paint, then mask a section for a different color. When I remove the tape, it seems to take off a small amount of the base coat’s surface. It’s not stripping it to bare plastic, but it’s enough to show the tape pattern at certain angles or under different light sources. Why is this happening? What can I do to fix it? It seems like it results in a texture difference.

If I spray the whole model at the end in a flat overcoat, will these masking tape blemishes still show?

– Anthony Spoto Everson, Wash.

A I suspect the tape is grabbing the high points of the flat paint’s rough texture and pulling them off the surface at the edge where you likely burnished it down hardest.

That will make the edge slightly smoother and glossier than the surrounding paint.

I’m pretty sure finishing with clear flat will correct the uneven appearance.

Decal-solution problem Q I’m in a bind. I was building Trumpeter’s

not used it yet. Lately, I’ve noticed paint oozing from the bottom of the can. The ooze was green and bubbly. I am not sure what to do with the can now or if it is even safe to use.

1/72 scale Sea Fury and, going against my normal practice, I used the kit decals for the black-and-white identification stripes (I usually paint them). I used Walthers Solvaset to get the decals to conform to the surface and it affected the decals. Instead of softening around the cannon fairings on the wings, the decals wrinkled badly and had lots of air bubbles. I’ve never seen decals react like this to solvent before. Is there a way to fix the damaged decals? How do I remove them completely without damaging the plane?

– Matthew Flood Knoxville, Tenn.

– Jared Demes Hill Spring, Alberta, Canada

A From your description, I would guess that there is a small hole in the bottom of the can and pressure is forcing paint out. This means the structural integrity of the can is compromised. There is a lot of pressure inside a spray can and there is a risk now

A Solvaset is one of the strongest decal solvents on the market, so I usually use it as a last resort on particularly stubborn decals.

My experience with Trumpeter markings is that they tend to be thin and don’t always react well to solvents. Provided the surface

Leaky spray can Q I bought a can of spray paint and have

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is glossy, I don’t use solvents with Trumpeter markings. If I have to, I will use Micro Set during application, then press the decal over details with a soft cloth or cotton swab. Only after applying the clear coat, if there is any silvering, will I use Micro Sol. I poke a few minute holes through the clear coat and decal with a pin or knife tip, then dab on a little Micro Sol and let it penetrate the air pockets under the decal. The clear coat should hold the decal flat enough to prevent it from wrinkling.

To get the bad decal off, I recommend masking tape. Lightly burnish it over the marking, then pull it up. It may take more than one application to completely remove the marking. You can also apply setting solution to loosen the decal.

Clarifying paint and thinner terms Q I read a number of magazines from the

United Kingdom, and the terminology for the types of paint and the chemicals used to thin paint or clean up can be confusing.

What is the difference between mineral spirits and turpentine? Also, what are the differences between enamels and lacquers?

Any chance you could do an article to clear up these terms?

– Mike Dumiak Sumter, S.C. A You’re right, Mike. A lot of these terms seem to be used interchangeably in the modeling world, and that can lead to confusion. I’ll keep the idea of an article in mind, but let me see if I can clear up a little of the confusion in the meantime.

Mineral spirits (white spirit in the United Kingdom) is a petroleum-distillate. It is also called mineral turpentine, turpentine substitute, and petroleum spirits. Turpentine is distilled from resin harvested from trees. It is also called spirit of turpentine, oil of turpentine, wood turpentine, or gum spirits. Any of these can be used to thin paint, especially oils. Turpentine is more expensive, making mineral spirits more popular.

Enamel and lacquer paints are both solvent-based. Enamels are oil-based and tend to dry from the outside in, so they can take a while to set up. Lacquer paint dries from the inside out, so it cures more quickly.

There are solvents designed to thin and clean the different kinds of paint. We always recommend using the thinner suggested by the paint manufacturer to ensure compatibility.

Keen on cargo lifters Q I was wondering why model manufac-

tures aren’t making kits of the C-141 and the C-5 in 1/144 scale. The C-17 kit Revell released a few years ago seemed to be very successful, so I don’t understand why they haven’t done these. Can you shed some light on this?

– Andrew Ossolinski New Hartford, Conn.

A Your question is a good one and I’ve asked it myself. Revell Germany’s C-17 and the equally impressive Antonov An-124 were well-received by modelers. And both the Starlifter and Galaxy regularly top FSM’s most wanted kit survey results. In fact, we are running a survey right now (check out the announcement on Page 29), so be sure to vote for these subjects and let the manufacturers know you want them.

If you are really keen to build a Galaxy, there is a kit out there — you can still find examples around — but be prepared to pay a premium. Originally released by Otaki, then Entex and Yodell, and finally Revell, these kits regularly fetch $50-$100 and sometimes more.

Japan drier as a wash thinner Q I’m beginning to experiment with oil

washes, using both Turpenoid and mineral spirits as a thinner. The drying time seems very long. I was thinking about using japan drier as a thinner, but can find little information about it.

Does anyone there have any experience with japan drier? Would you recommend using it for washes?

Frank Cuden used Floquil old silver as a base for the finish on his 1/48 scale A-24B Banshee in the February 2013 FSM. Most of the panels are painted with Alclad II lacquers, a few with Testors Model Master steel.

Aaron used Alclad II airframe aluminum as the base for the finish on his 1/48 scale MiG-17 in January 2012. Panels were then masked and painted with other Alclad shades as well as Testors Metalizers.

Ken Friend used foil to give his 1/72 scale RF-101 Voodoo a shine in the December 2010 FSM. Different textures and sanding differentiate panels.

Luciano Rodriquez applied silver automotive paint to his 1/72 scale P-47 Thunderbolt in April 2008. The panel shading was achieved with thin washes and filters.

Metallic finish alternatives Q I just discovered that my favorite bare-metal finish, Hawkeye’s SnJ Spray Metal, has gone out of production. I always thought it very sturdy and easy to apply and, with the polishing powder, gave a great finish. Is there another product that can compare for sturdiness and shine? I don’t like Model Master Metalizer as a base coat because it is too hard to mask.

– Scott Roby Duluth, Minn.

— Bill Maniace, Baldwin, N.Y.

A Japan drier is a term applied to any oil-drying agent that can be mixed with oil paints to accelerate drying. I can see where the appeal lies for washes.

That said, I haven’t used japan drier for washes before, but I looked around and it appears other modelers have done so, either on its own or, more commonly, in addition to thinner. Apparently you only need a drop or two in a typical wash for it to work well. Because I am not familiar with the stuff, my only concern would be its reaction with underlying paint. I would test it first on a painted scrap or old model to be sure you don’t ruin your model. Give it a try and let me know if it works for you.

past. There are several alternatives available, each with its own advantages and disadvantages.

For basic metallic finishes, I prefer Alclad II lacquers. They involve more surface preparation than other options; the paint is extremely thin, so it will show any surface defects. But the finish is sturdy enough to mask over and dries very quickly, so you can apply multiple coats in a short time.

Another option is to base coat with Floquil old silver (from Floquil’s railroad range), then use Model Master Metalizers or Alclad II for panel variations. Old silver gives a nice, weathered metal surface; thinner paints like Alclad and Metalizer adhere to paint better than plastic.

As with any paint you aren’t used to applying, these take a little practice to get right. You can read more about metallic finishes, including a comparison of several brands, in the January 2012 FSM. Back issues are available by calling Kalmbach customer service, 800-558-6644 (international 262-796-8776). Or you can order online at www.FineScale.com/BackIssues. FSM

A The loss of Hawkeye’s Hobbies doesn’t mean metallic finishes are a thing of the

May 2013

www.FineScale.com

49

SUBSCRIBER-ONLY CONTENT More than 250 tips online at FineScale.com/ReaderTips

Reader Tips Solutions and innovations

By Mark Hembree

A craft-store purchase gave Gerald an ample supply of glass beads he uses as agitators in paint bottles.

Beads for agitation

Robert’s homemade jig improves the aim of individual barrels on a ship’s gun turret.

I’m pretty sure similar tips have been mentioned before, but here’s a little different angle.

Most bottles of paint do not contain a ball (as spray-can paints do) to help mix the paint. So, I bought a “bucket of beads” at Hobby Lobby for $11.99 (actually, less because I had a coupon), and now I have a lifetime supply of paint agitators. The beads are glass (no worries about rust) and come in three sizes: 4mm, 6mm, and 8mm. Add one to any kind of paint, seal the cap, and shake well to make sure your pigment and carrier are thoroughly mixed for optimum paint performance.

– Gerald Baker El Paso, Texas

Aligning gun barrels I recently returned from Afghanistan and decided to take back up my teenage hobby of modeling. Even though I’m in the Army, I decided to tackle the Tamiya 1/350 scale modern USS New Jersey, a ship I wish they had never mothballed. I bought lots of photoetched metal and brass barrels for it and immediately noted it was nearly impossible to get the barrels to line up perfectly with each other — and, as focal points, these were key elements. So I made a simple jig for the 16" guns with some cardboard, a piece of flat styrene, and Tamiya masking tape. I will make a similar one for the 5" guns. Wow! What a difference this makes! And it costs virtually nothing.

– Robert Smith, Barrington, New Hampshire

Put a towel in your lap

The carpet monster can be evil, and it is amazing how far photoetched-metal and plastic pieces can bounce on a concrete floor. Some days, a parts search leaves my shop floor cleaner than my living room! A quick and easy solution is draping a bath towel across your lap. Unlike a jeweler’s apron, it is not attached to the bench — so there is no worry about forgetting to detach it before getting up.

– Wayne Cassell Littleton, Colo.

Base coat for tracks

Here is a really simple recipe for a convincing track color: Mix equal parts of Tamiya red brown (XF-64) and Tamiya flat black (XF-1). What comes out is a really nice, dark gray with a hint of red — perfect for tracks!

– Benjamin Kluge Hudson, Quebec, Canada 50

FineScale Modeler

May 2013

local Wal-Mart, and the Easy Liner was in the kitchen department. The lining cushions models and keeps them from sliding around in the containers. The containers have a locking lid to keep dust out, and they are stackable. I mostly build in 1/72 scale, but the larger flat containers work quite nicely for 1/48 and 1/35 scales, too.

Simple household materials ingeniously combined for models: Scott lines the bottom of Sterilite storage containers with nonslip Easy Liner (used by nonmodelers to line shelves or drawers).

Stashing the stash

For the longest time, I had problems storing my finished kits. I have finally come up with the perfect solution: Sterilite containers floored with Easy Liner (a flexible nonadhesive, nonskid shelf or drawer liner). I found a large selection of containers at my

– Scott Wisbith East Palestine, Ohio Attractive tip for tricycle tail-sitters

If you plan to park a notorious tail-sitter (such as a glass-nosed B-25) on a display base, you can place ferrous sheet metal within the nose of the model and put ceramic magnets in the base. This will keep the nose wheel down and even allow you to change the position of the plane on the base.

– James Wechsler Hingham, Mass.

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Get techniques for DoinG Decals riGht

Academy’s F-4B Phantom wears several hundred decals and looks great — but having trouble with just one can trip up your project at the finish line.

FSM Associate Editor Aaron Skinner shows how to give your models a happy ending.

clear Parts? FSM helPs see You throuGh!

Whether you’re building an aircraft, MRAP, or El Dorado, clear parts are the focal point of a clean build. We’ll show you how to make ‘em sparkle!

series of airbrush & finishinG continues

FSM readers can’t get enough of our standing feature on finishing their models — and that’s fine with us. We’ve got a million more where those came from!

anD More reviews!

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For more information, visit: FineScale.com/digitaleditions May 2013

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Workbench Reviews FSM evaluations of new kits on the market

Academy catapults ahead with all-new F-4B Phantom

F

inally — an F-4B with engraved panel Mk.82 bombs with pre-fusing caps, short lines and full intake trunking. Wow! fuses, or the extended fuses (which I used).

The kit is molded in three colors — You get a centerline fuel tank (Navy vergray, white, and black — for those of you sion) and two wing tanks that aren’t often who want a nice-looking model without used on Navy fighters when deployed. They painting. It really doesn’t look too bad that are, however, used on Air Force versions way, either. (hint, hint).

The kit comes with a variety You also get a centerline of parts that hint at more verVulcan cannon, an ALQsions to come. You get: two dif- tail decals are 119 ECM pod, and chaff engineered ferent nose cones and four dispensers for later versions, under-nose IR/sensors; four dif- perfectly and along with all the associferent fin caps; two sets of stabiated hard points, missile fit with no lators, one straight and one rails, two MERs, and two slatted; and two different instru- trimming.

TERS. Also included are ment panels for front and back two forward nose-gear cockpits. Academy also provides doors that are finally the options for the refueling system: the U.S. proper shape, one for the Navy and one for Navy refueling probe or a pane to blank it the Air Force. And at last you get the lonoff and a spine refueling receptacle for the ger exhaust cans and wider tires used on U.S. Air Force version and a plate to blank later versions. The intake trunking is a nice it off. feature, but you can see a step when you You get three types of Sidewinder mislook down the intakes. siles, two types of Sparrow missiles, and 12 The cockpit is an improvement over

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past kits, but it is still a little spartan; no throttle quadrant, and the seats are Plain Jane. But the side-console inserts are nice.

Another indicator of future variants is that Part No. F40, the lower forward fuselage, is molded separately. In Step 2, the main gear-bay framework and struts are assembled, then installed in Step 3. I didn’t like the possibility of snapping the struts off during construction, but I dealt with it.

I did break off a piece of Part F45 or F46, I don’t remember which.

I also lost one of the F30 parts, a geardoor support, but I left the surviving one off. It didn’t make a difference in appearance or structural integrity.

Before joining the wing’s top and bottom, make sure you drill all the necessary holes for the hardpoints and antennas.

When installing the intake-trunk assemblies in Step 4, make sure that they’re seated properly in the lower fuselage. There are corresponding cutouts that match up between the trunks and the lower fuselage.

SUBSCRIBER-ONLY CONTENT More than 1,300 reviews online at FineScale.com/Reviews

Kit: No. 12232 Scale: 1/48 Manufacturer: Academy,

www.academy.co.kr, from Model Rectifier Corp., 732-225-2100, www.modelrectifier.com Price: $69 Comments: Injection-molded, 517 parts, decals Pros: High level of detail; mostly good fits; accurate weapons options; full intake trunking; great decals Cons: Cockpit and seats lack detail (no throttle quadrant); main landing gear is canted inward; multicolored plastic not ideal for airbrushing A highlight of Academy’s F-4B is the choice and accuracy of the weapons included in the box.

Make sure these mate tightly. The exhaust cans can be left off until final assembly.

Step 6 joins upper and lower fuselage.

You have the option of an extended or retracted refueling probe; I closed mine up.

I didn’t want to detract from the lines of the model.

In Step 7, installing the intake assemblies, make sure that the seam above the wing is smooth so you can deal with the mismatch that’s inherent in Phantom models; I haven’t found one yet that mates perfectly, in any scale. (Ejector-pin marks have to be filled inside the intakes on their bottom sides.) The panel that replaces the Air

Force refueling receptacle is a sloppy fit.

Also, the air conditioning intakes (parts G34 and G35) are a bit too narrow. But they’re workable.

In Step 9, Part O2 stands a bit proud and has to be sanded and blended with the fuselage; otherwise the tail won’t sit right.

The rest of the assemblies went off without a hitch. I used the missiles called for in the instructions. The bombs need the pre-arming caps to be installed on the front, but the kit provides both short and extended fuses. I used the latter, also shown with the finished model on the box.

I painted my model with Testors Model

Master enamels and Alclad II for the exhausts and Sidewinder tips.

There are lotsa stencils! They went on perfectly, but they like to stick almost immediately. The good news is that they’re arranged in numerical order on the decal sheet, making application easy. Just cut off a row, find them in the instructions (which are very good), and put them on. Tail decals are engineered perfectly and fit with no trimming.

I spent about 45 hours on my kit, 10 just for the decals, and it builds into a terrific model. Highly recommended!

– Larry Schramm May 2013

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53

Workbench Reviews

Roden KrAZ-214B

R

oden follows up its Rolls-Royce armored car kits with the KrAZ-214 Soviet truck, a postwar hauler that served many countries in military and civilian applications for more than 50 years.

The truck’s cab and bed are molded in light green styrene, while the motor, frame, and suspension are black. The green styrene is brittle, and more-delicate parts are easily broken. The black styrene acts more like vinyl and requires extra glue and drying time for good adhesion. Clear plastic parts are included for the lights and windows.

Nylon string is provided for the winch cable, and the canvas cover for the bed is vacuum-formed. The vinyl tires have good tread-pattern and sidewall detail. However, many of the parts suffer from mold shift and sink marks that damage some of the finer parts.

I started with many of the smaller subassemblies called out in the directions, which sped up assembly later. The direc-

Kit: No. 804 Scale: 1/35 Manufacturer: Roden, www.roden.eu,

from Squadron Mail Order, 877-4140434, www.squadron.com Price: $69.99 Comments: Injection-molded, 460 parts (1 vacuum-formed, 8 vinyl, 1 nylon string), decals Pros: Beefy-looking tires; detailed engine and suspension Cons: Poor fits and decals; sink marks mar several parts

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tions flow logically, but placement of the parts is sometimes vague. Looking ahead will usually show you where the parts go. In Step 7, parts 28D and 8D should be 28C and 8C. The first real problem came in Step 10.

I glued the assembly from Step 9 to C11 before attaching it to the axle. The assembly from Step 9 should be slipped onto the axle first, then rotated before being glued to C11. Otherwise, the tie rod will not fit. In Step 13, Part B45 is shown on the wrong side of the axle; it should be glued to the ridges on the other side of the axle.

The exhaust pipe on this truck is large and ought to be drilled out. The wrong lens for the light in Step 18 is shown: It should be Part H1, not H2. The frame is long but has only seven cross members to hold it in place. I was worried about it twisting, but if everything is glued together at once any little twist can be corrected. The engine and fenders were left off for painting.

There are a few options for the truck bed: You can have the seats folded up or down; stow the canvas support bars or put them in place for the canvas cover; and the tailgate can be posed up or down, as can the steps for climbing into the bed. The rear cover comes as a clear vacuum-formed part, and there is a separate set of directions for cutting it out and where to mask for the windows. The directions also show pictures of the real thing. If you are looking for more detail, the directions suggest using the vacuum-formed part as a mold for forming your own cover from fabric or paper.

There is flash protecting the openings in Part G8 that needs to be opened up.

Taillights should be drilled out and replaced with lenses from other sources.

I left the doors and the rear of the cab off to paint the interior more easily. The gear shifts are fragile and easily broken, and

I lost my emergency brake during painting.

The gauges are just round discs in the dashboard; aftermarket items might provide more detail.

I drilled holes to add strength to the hand grabs (parts A25 and A40). There are two different hood ornaments, depending on which marking options you choose.

I glued the hood and front grille in place and painted the cab separately.

Directions are for Testors Model Master paints, but I chose Polly Scale Pullman green for the cab and rear bed, and Vallejo primer black for the frame and wheels. The choice to mold the kit in the two primary colors of the vehicle helps hide areas that are hard to reach with an airbrush.

I hand-brushed details with Humbrol and Vallejo paints according to the directions; the engine and exhaust are Testors Model Master burnt metal.

Then I sealed with AK Interactive satin varnish and applied decals. I chose North Vietnamese, but the kit also provides markings for Soviet, East German, Hungarian, Polish, and Czechoslovakian trucks. The decals were off-register and did not adhere well; the license plate decals broke during application, silvered, and the underlying colors bled through.

Still, when it’s finished this kit captures the beefy look of the real vehicle. I was unable to find any scale plans for this truck, but it did look proportional to the pictures I found on the Internet.

It took 34 hours to finish this model, mostly for fixing sink marks and fighting the poor fit of the parts. I would recommend this model to a more experienced modeler; this kit will definitely sharpen basic modeling skills. But a little patience will reward you with a model of a truck that has traveled the world. – Mike Scharf

Hasegawa Eurofighter Typhoon II

E

urope’s Typhoon II fighter is the prodYou’ll need to sand the lower sides of uct of design studies undertaken durthe ejection seat to get it into the cockpit ing the 1970s for a fighter to counter tub. The baffle (E4) that fits into the upper the latest Soviet aircraft. While it was orig- fuselage behind the intake was loose on my inally called the “Eurofighter,” that name is model, so I clamped the fuselage around it now used for the consortium of companies for a tight fit. This action narrowed the that manufacture the aircraft: Alenia fuselage, leaving a gap between it and the Aeronautica, BAE Systems, and EADS. It’s wings and making the lower portion of the interesting to me that all the latest fighters intake too wide. That took a lot of filling from Europe — the Typhoon II, Gripen, and sanding to correct. The intake ramp and Rafale — share the canard-delta wing and splitter plate fit beautifully into place design. Collectively, they are and present a neat scale known as the “Eurocanards.” … has a more appearance. I did test-fit the Hasegawa’s Typhoon II is realistic scale canopy pieces early, but witha beauty with exquisite surout the glare shield (C7) and face detail. Molded in sturdy, appearance. aft canopy structure (A1) in light gray plastic, the kit has place. To my chagrin, these 215 parts, including 17 for a pieces impinged on the canstand, four for a pilot, and enough pieces opy parts, hindering their fit during my for 30 missiles and three drop tanks. There final assembly. is a lot of plastic in the box, perhaps conThe painting guide uses Gunze Sangyo tributing to the relatively high price of the nomenclature and Federal Standard numkit. An extensive decal sheet has markings bers for the colors. The main color of the for two RAF and one Luftwaffe aircraft, RAF versions is FS36375, light ghost gray, loads of stencil data for each version, and which I didn’t have; I suspect my substitute markings for all those missiles. The twois a little too dark. Restrained pre-shading part canopy is crystal clear with just a faint with dark sea gray helped break up the mold line down the middle. However, I monotone look. Decals are typical for wish Hasegawa had included parts necesHasegawa, with excellent register and color, sary to display the canopy open. though I did have some silvering around Construction is straightforward. I folthe smaller stencils. lowed the instructions except for my usual I spent 35 hours on the build, several of practice of waiting until the end to add those to correct the wing/fuselage seam most of the pieces “sticking out” from the problem I had caused myself. Hasegawa’s fuselage. version of the Typhoon II is more accurate

than other kits on the market, particularly around the intake and the external stores.

The finished model definitely has a more realistic scale appearance.

Though not for the complete novice (because of the part count), this kit can be recommended to all others interested in modern aircraft. It’ll make a great addition to your collection. Ð Phil Pignataro

Kit: No. 01570 Scale: 1/72 Manufacturer: Hasegawa,

www.hasegawa-model.co.jp, from Great Planes Model Distributors, 217398-3630, www.hasegawausa.com Price: $59.99 Comments: Injectionmolded, 215 parts, decals Pros: Excellent surface detail; scale appearance of intake; extensive selection of external stores; stand with optional positioning mechanism Cons: Lack of parts to display canopy opened; some silvering around stencil/ data decals

May 2013

www.FineScale.com

55

Workbench Reviews

Zvezda Russian Imperial Navy battleship Sevastopol

F

our Gangut-class Russian dreadnoughtdesign battleships (also known as the Sevastopol class) were laid down in June 1909. But, constantly shifting requirements, financing, and other obstacles delayed commissioning of the first two until November

1914. By then, with the rapid expansion of the world’s fleets, the ships’ 12" main armament had already been made obsolescent by 14" and 15" weapons of the major naval powers in World War I. Zvezda’s Sevastopol comprises 432 parts

Out of the box, small parts such as the ship’s boats and weapons feature sharp detail.

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on eight sprues molded in light gray plastic with better-than-average detail. Four clear parts provide windows for the conning station. A decal sheet and paper flag sheet are included for the Sevastopol only. You can build a full hull or waterline it using a deeply scored line on the inside of the hull sides. The lower hull has a rough texture compared to the upper hull sides and is apparently finished that way on purpose. A display stand is included.

The instruction sheet, printed on both sides, measures 11" x 31" and contains 30 steps, 23 subassembly steps, and decal placement. Subassemblies 15a-29a are a bit crowded on the margins but clear enough.

In Step 1 you must decide whether to mount the anti-torpedo booms and service platforms; the guide holes are impressed on the inside of the hull and are easily handdrilled. The lineup for parts fitted later is perfect, so you can trust your drilling. Or you can decide not to mount the booms and keep the hull sides flush. Either option is correct for 1914-17.

From the very start, there was evidence of the close tolerances of this model as the hull halves stayed together without glue. I completed steps 1-5 quickly, except for mounting the 16 casemate guns.

Looking forward, I realized there would but only six are on the be 54 protrusions on the hull when adding two sprue trees C. the waterline decals. So I skipped ahead to A special note about Step paint and decal the hull. I painted it flat red 27a: You will need to decide if and flat gull gray per the instructions. The you wish to drill mounting holes for 12 white waterline decal sections were set eight parts F11 (French Canet first, and 14 draft lines followed; all laid 75mm/50-caliber) on all four turret tops. In down very well with no breakage. The my research, I could find evidence of only waterlines are very thin and are best applied four total: two each on the fore and aft turwith the hull on its side. Be careful with the rets (only later in the ship’s life) with none draft line, which is meant to follow the on the midships turrets. Since the conning curve of the icebreaking hull. tower appears to be the 1914 configuration After sealing the decals, I mounted compared to the 1920 box art, I left the casemate guns as steps 6-14 moved right extra cannons off. along. Trim the undersides of The fit is so tight on the turrets hatch covers F3/F4/F5/F6; ejec- I prefer to that no glue is required to attach tor-pin remnants on some will the base. But do so anyway to preprepaInt prevent flush fitting to the deck vent elevating the movable guns mounts. Step 14, where the too much. This kit uses a unique fIddly booms and working platforms are lIttle sandwich collar for turret rotation; added, only denotes the port-side use minimal glue to keep them placement. But rest assured of the parts moving. symmetry of the part numbers

By Step 30 the masts will drop for the starboard side. in place, perfectly aligned and supSteps 15 and 15a through Step 29a are ported by the decks. This was a nice feature. where patience is required. Check and dou- Regarding the masts, the lower, wide, forble-check for any seams, no matter how ward yardarm noted on the box art is not tiny; the tight tolerances of this model part of the model. A 1914 photograph make even a single, thin coat of paint a sus- shows just a narrow crosstree on the leading pect in fit problems. edge of topmast support platforms. I used Steps 19a-22b require continuous drystretched sprue for the ship’s rigging. fitting to make sure there are no seams or A final note about decals: The doublepaint hang-ups. Check the diameter of the head eagle (Decal No. 1) will straddle the mast hole for each level, as tiny seams will stern; that’s not clear in the instructions. restrict easy placement of the mast. Quick Painting with Testors Model Master hint: Red bar decal 11, which circles the Acryls, I used: flat gull (No. 4763); wood forward funnel, will be most easily mounted (4673); and German gray (4795). I also before Step 23, in which the conning tower applied Testors flat red (No. 1250) and attaches to the funnel.

Tamiya red (X-7) enamels along with Take care in Step 23; any misalignment PanPastel ultrasoft gray and umber pastels. will bow the first-tier deck and prevent As a model builder with some experisolid placement of the stack. ence, I prefer to prepaint fiddly little parts Steps 24 and 25 reveal missing parts; on the sprue and touch up after mounting. eight funnels are needed for the four boats, That said, this kit does not like that and

will let you know you should sand off any excess paint for a good fit.

The tight fits result in a model with no fillers. The deck could have been left unglued — a tribute to Zvezda engineering.

I spent 92 hours building my Sevastopol.

It was a pleasant time with no surprises or glaring faults to correct — and I learned a great deal about the tumultuous times from 1914 to 1921 in the Baltic region against the backdrop of the Russian Revolution.

– Mark Karolus

Kit: No. 9040 Scale: 1/350 Manufacturer: Zvezda,

www.zvezda.org.ru, from Dragon Models USA, 626-968-0322, www.dragonmodelsusa.com Price: $94.95 Comments: Injectionmolded, 432 parts, decals, paper flags Pros: Exceptionally good fits; well-engineered Cons: Tight fits require extra care during painting; some prominent mold seams

May 2013

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57

Workbench Reviews

Trumpeter Italian Puma 4 x 4 AFV

W

ith increasing demand for modern fighting vehicles, many kit manufacturers are stepping up to the plate. Trumpeter is no exception, adding its Italian Puma armored fighting vehicle to the fray.

Kit: No. 05525 Scale: 1/35 Manufacturer: Trumpeter,

www.trumpeter-china.com, from Stevens International, 856-435-1555, www.stevenshobby.com, and from Squadron Products, 877-414-0434, www.squadron.com Price: $53.99 Comments: Injection-molded, 310 parts (44 photoetched brass, 4 vinyl), decals Pros: Nice tires and decals Cons: Unnecessary photoetched-metal parts; thick metal; no figures

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Opening the box, I was delighted to see chose not to add parts D26 (bolt heads?) as just nine sprues of parts, two frets of phoI lost most of them while cutting them off toetched brass, four vinyl tires, and a nice the frets. You can pose some of the hatches decal sheet. Surface detail is well-molded open or closed. But there is no interior throughout. Seeing a part count around detail, so I glued mine shut.

300, I assumed this would be a fairly quick The rest of the build is pretty straightbuild. That was not the case. forward and mostly trouble-free.

Instructions are presented in 12 steps The photoetched-brass parts are thick over a 12-page magazine-style booklet. and hard to bend. A good bending tool Included are a separate decal helps. Also, I did lose a couple and paint guide and a parts tree You can of photoetched-brass parts breakdown. while bending them — Part The first couple of steps deal pose some PE A6 hit the floor and was with building the suspension never found — so I left these of the and drivetrain. Parts PE A1 are hatches parts off the model. suspension-mount brackets.

I painted my model using These are very difficult to put in open or Tamiya and Floquil paints for place, so be patient. Suspension NATO green, NATO brown, closed. detail looks great once it’s fully and grimy black. The decals assembled and installed. went on over a gloss coat with I ran into quite a bit of trouble on Step no problems at all. I noticed no silvering on 6. The directions are not very clear on any of the decals. bending the photoetched-metal parts, and My model took me a little more than 30 once this assembly is together it’s not clear hours to complete, much more than I anticwhere it goes in Step 7. I referred to the ipated when I opened the box. Due to the picture on the decal and paint guide to see difficulties with the photoetched brass, I if I had it in the correct position. Turns out would not recommend it for a beginner.

I might have had the angle off a touch.

However, experienced modelers should Steps 8 and 9 are very busy; you have to enjoy building this Puma. be careful to make sure nothing is missed. I – Chris Oglesby

Sword T-28C Trojan

S

erving in the U.S. Navy as a replacement for the venerable SNJ trainer, North American’s radial-engined T-28 Trojan was modified with a tailhook and other equipment to train naval aviators in the fine art of carrier operations.

Before Sword’s new family of Trojan kits, modelers with 1/72 scale collections had to backdate Heller’s Fennec, a French counterinsurgency version of the T-28A, to Navy specs.

The plastic parts have excellent exterior detail, good interior and small parts, and the decals are excellent. In this kit, a fine resin casting replaces the plastic engine.

Clear parts include a three-part canopy, wingtip navigation lights, and other small items. The two decal sheets contain crisply printed markings for two trainers in white and orange, and one in the more unusual gray and white scheme.

I’ve come to expect trouble melding Sword’s cockpit interior with the fuselage castings, but I was pleasantly surprised by trouble-free fits just about everywhere on this kit.

Instrument panel and console detail are provided with decals, but you could paint the raised/recessed panels. There are no harnesses for the seats.

All the major components play well together, and I used very little filler. But I did encounter a couple of glitches. The

instructions show a propeller shaft on the front of the resin-cast engine, but there was no shaft on my sample. But then there was no hole for it in the back of the propeller, anyway, so I just glued the prop onto the engine at final assembly. Also, the nose-gear strut had a T-shaped end instead of the mounting pin as shown, and the nose-gear bay had a mounting hole that was not illustrated. Someone was not on the same page there, so to speak.

A lot of time was devoted to painting the glossy white and orange trainer scheme.

The decals, although beautifully printed, are very thin; I feared the orange panels would show through the white star and bars of the insignia. So I masked the shape of the insignias before painting the orange.

I used Testor Boyd sunburst for my trainer orange; under fluorescent light it looks better than the proper international orange (FS12197).

Be careful with the decals; they are easily mangled if mishandled.

The finished model is attractive, but there are a few accuracy issues. The U.S. Navy Trojans had a short-profile canopy, but the kit comes with the high-profile canopy of the U.S. Air Force T-28A and the Fennec. It’s not terribly noticeable if the canopy is posed opened. Also, the T-28C had a large-diameter nose wheel with a low-profile tire, but the kit’s wheel is small

and the tire is fat. You can cut down the wing-mounted pitot boom by about half. I found the snarling mouth and eye markings for the cowl oversized compared with photos of the real aircraft.

I spent 31 hours on my Trojan. I’m going to build Sword’s B model, too, this time in the early trainer yellow scheme. I hope an aftermarket company comes out with an A model cowl and prop so I can do a natural-metal Air Force trainer, too!

– Paul Boyer

Kit: No. SW72067 Scale: 1/72 Manufacturer: Sword Models,

www.swordmodels.cz, from Squadron Mail Order, 877-414-0434, www.squadron.com Price: $44.99 Comments: Injection-molded, 61 parts (1 resin), decals Pros: Good detail; interior fits well Cons: Incorrect nose wheel and high-profile canopy; no prop shaft

May 2013

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59

Workbench Reviews

Wingnut Wings Fokker D.VII

A

fter months — maybe years — of anticipation, Wingnut Wings has finally unleashed its Fokker D.VII kits on the market, initially in three variations. The three kits include specific parts to cater to the Fokker-, Albatros-, and OAW-built examples, along with appropriate decal markings.

Speaking of decals, there are six sheets of decals included in the Fokker boxing

Kit: No. 32011 Scale: 1/32 Manufacturer: Wingnut Wings, www.wingnutwings.com Price: $79 Comments: Injection-molded, 218 parts

(8 photoetched metal), decals Pros: Excellent fits; beautifully thin cowl

panels; great decals and lots of them Cons: Touchy assembly and alignment of nose

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used for this review, including full, prefitted again, take care during assembly. Sadly, I lozenge or the unique Fokker streaked didn’t reinforce this joint and the seam split camouflage. A nice touch is the inclusion of slightly below the lozenge decals later. Now interior lozenge decals that replicate the you’ve been warned. reverse side of the printed fabric.

The lower wings had ejector-pin towers Typical Wingnut Wings quality is that need to be cut down. But the fit of exhibited throughout. The wafer-thin cowl both lower and upper wings is very good, panels especially highlight the current state with sturdy strut location points and slots of the art in molding. for the ailerons. Clever engineering shows Careful study of the instructions is up when test-fitting the major assemblies; advisable because of the numerspars molded on the lower ous detail differences between wings slip into the fuselage. applied the decal options. To add strength I undercoated all lozengedecals and covered areas with Tamiya and convenience, I built the entire interior metal tube struc- snugged black, then applied the decals ture before painting, including them down and snugged them down using the small curved braces. a hair dryer. All the decals fit using a Use care when assembling perfectly, even the openings for the complex engine bearers and hair dryer the strut mounting pins. the associated supports — There are a couple of misalignment is critical to mounttakes on the decal scheme for ing the nose and wing later. As with its my option, with no mention of left lower Fokker E.III (Workbench Reviews, April wing decal 411, no mention of either decal 2013), Wingnut would have you postpone 107 or 108 on the lower surface of the tail, gluing the lower fuselage seam until fitting and listing decal 404 twice when the upper the molded strip of stitching. I had a minor right wing decal should be 401. But those fit problem just behind the cockpit coamerrors are obvious when comparing decals ing that I fixed by clipping the alignment with the drawing. pin shorter and adding a bit of filler. I Final assembly brings all the decaled believe the rear bulkhead and tubing struccomponents together. Remember to install ture may have been slightly too wide — the very fragile horizontal stabilizer before

attaching the fin — guess who didn’t and had to cut apart the carefully guarded elevator to install it.

I had to use great care to allow the nose and associated cowl panels to fit properly. I still don’t know how, but I have a gap between the bottom of the nose bowl and the metal panel just aft of the gear mounts.

The model also developed a slight lean to

the left that I couldn’t fully correct because I placed the outer wing struts too deeply in their mounting holes (I think). This may have been caused by not seating the radiator assembly at the proper angle. To add to my woes, I lost the “high detail” machine guns. But the normal guns without photoetched-metal jackets worked fine.

Just because the D.VII lacks complex

rigging doesn’t mean you can go to sleep. I spent an enjoyable 38 hours on my D.VII, much of it painting and decaling. This should be a great seller for Wingnut. If you’ve wanted to see what all the fuss was about, but don’t want to spend large amounts of time rigging, this is the kit for you. Go ahead — try one!

– Chuck Davis

May 2013

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61

Workbench Reviews

Trumpeter Supermarine Attacker F.1

W

e modelers are lucky. For the last few years, Trumpeter has seemed determined to bring us some rather obscure yet important subjects.

The Supermarine Attacker certainly fits that agenda. The actual aircraft was produced in small numbers, with only 185 built. It is significant, however, because it was the first jet-powered interceptor flown by the British Fleet Air Arm. Pakistan was the only other user of the aircraft, flying 36 of them until 1964. The Attacker also represents the last vestige of the Spitfire design, following on from the Spitfire 22/24, Spiteful/Seafang, and, finally, the Attacker.

Trumpeter has developed a recognizable

Kit: No. 02866 Scale: 1/48 Manufacturer: Trumpeter,

www.trumpeter-china.com, from Stevens International, 856-435-1555, www.stevenshobby.com, and from Squadron Products, 877-414-0434, www.squadron.com Price: $38.99 Comments: Injection-molded, 92 parts (8 photoetched metal), decals Pros: Good fits, easy construction Cons: Inaccurate landing gear, undersized serial numbers

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style. The box top has nice art showing one of the two aircraft included on the decal sheet. Surface detail is delicate, precise, and well-done.

The instructions are concise and welldrawn, but they do not offer any color callouts except for the overall paint scheme. I searched the Internet for references to the correct colors for the interior of my model, which ended up predominantly dark gray.

Overall construction is a fairly painless exercise with well-fitting parts. There were only a few small areas (mainly around the engine air inlets) where a bit of gentle persuasion was all it took to achieve a neat, tight fit. Even the large conformal fuel tank on the belly fit well, with minimal gaps around the front of the assembly. The cockpit is adequate for the scale but would certainly allow some extra work if that’s your thing. The only other noteworthy construction aspect is that you may mount the wingtips in the folded position by cutting off the outer wingtip panels from the upper and lower wings and installing the ribs and hinges provided. A nice touch!

Another option would be to mount the flaps in a deflected position. Even though they are molded as separate assemblies, some work would be involved in shaping them to fit in a lowered position. Neither the rudder nor elevators are separate; they would need to be cut and reworked to pose them deflected.

The model scales out well to published dimensions and really catches the unique, slightly pugnacious lines of the Attacker.

However, there are a couple of accuracy issues, the biggest being the undercarriage legs. The leg should be virtually straight,

with no offset “fork” as depicted by the kit parts. As it is, the leg would bisect the midline of the wheel if it were to continue to the ground. In fact, the leg should pass next to the outside of the wheel if it were to continue to the ground. Trumpeter’s kits of the Supermarine Spiteful and Seafang also share this inaccuracy, as they share the same moldings. Maybe an aftermarket company will provide us with suitably correct undercarriage legs for these three kits.

The other accuracy issue involves the decals. The underside serial numbers are undersized: They should extend inward onto the main undercarriage doors, whereas the supplied decals terminate well short of the doors. The instrument panel decal is a little on the clunky side, too, being rather overstated in detail (in my opinion). The decals do perform well, though, hugging all the little details underneath them with no setting solutions required.

I painted my model with Testors Model Master 36118 gunship gray topside and Humbrol 90 beige green for the “sky Type S” on the undersides. I weathered with a sharpened 2H pencil for the panel lines and restrained paint chipping (applied with silver paint) around panels that may have been accessed frequently. Pledge Future floor polish provided a gloss surface for the decals; Krylon acrylic matte varnish supplied the final flat finish.

Trumpeter’s Attacker is not the first 1/48 scale model of this important aircraft, but it is the first “mainstream” (you may interpret that as “easy-to-build”) kit to date.

Mine took approximately 25 hours, and it was an enjoyable, no-fuss build.

– Matthew Walker

Kit Classics

By Tom Graham

Addar’s USS Constitution

T

he “ship in a bottle” is a centuries-old tradition in folk art — and in 1952, it was an early arrival in the new world of plastic modeling as Gowland Creations, of Santa Barbara, Calif., brought out its Shipyard line of model ships in bottles.

Founded in 1947 by the father-son team of John and Kelvin Gowland, postwar immigrants from England, Gowland Creations also designed and sometimes manufactured plastic toys sold by others at retail. By far, its most important client was Revell Toys, then based in nearby Hollywood.

In 1951, Revell revolutionized the modeling universe by selling Gowland-designed toy antique cars in the form of unassembled model kits — the Highway Pioneers. The astounding success of the little automobiles quickly made plastic model building the No. 1 hobby of American boys — and launched Revell as the world’s largest model company.

In an attempt to emulate Revell’s triumph, Gowland independently marketed its Shipyard kits in fall 1952. A line of seven sailing vessels was developed, all sized to fit into a standard two-part clear bottle that came with a real cork. The kits were packaged in a generic blue box with the name of the model inside, rubber-stamped on the end panel of the box.

The same kits were also sold in smaller boxes without the bottle.

Although Gowland took out full-page ads in hobby magazines, the Shipyard kits didn’t enjoy the success of the Highway Pioneers series. After two years of independent marketing, Gowland turned sales of the kits over to Revell, which added two more kits and sold

Gowland/Addar ship-in-a-bottle kits were nicely crafted little gems but failed to catch on with model builders.

Derek Brand, creator of Revell’s Highway Pioneers cars, also sculpted these 5"-long ships.

them in its distinctive boxes with full-color cover art.

However, in spite of its industry-leading flair for advertising and marketing, Revell could not make the little ships profitable and soon dropped them from its catalog.

Gowland went out of business in 1956. Crafco, a company spun off by a former Gowland associate, disposed of the remaining inventory of Shipyard models in bags bearing the trademark of Mantel Models. For almost 20 years after that, the ship-in-a-bottle

tooling languished in storage.

Eventually, Gowland’s chief engineer and sculptor, a chipper Englishman named Derek Brand, acquired ownership of the molds he had helped create.

He would go on to fame in the hobby world as the inventor of HO scale slot cars that Aurora Plastics Corp. of West Hempstead, N.Y., sold successfully under the Model Motoring and, later, AFX, trademarks.

In 1972, some former Aurora executives formed Addar Products, headquartered in Brooklyn, N.Y. To help

Addar get to market, Brand leased the ship tooling to his former Aurora colleagues. Eight of the ships appeared in new boxes that displayed bright artwork when stacked on store shelves.

When Addar failed and closed in 1976, the Gowland ships vanished. Brand guessed that some molding contractor simply sold the valuable beryllium copper tooling for scrap to satisfy a debt left unpaid by Addar.

Those well-executed kits deserved a better fate. FSM

May 2013

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Local Hobby Shop Directory

FOr SalE

Model planes, car, ships & figures. Model train scales: Z, N, HO, O & G. Paints, tools. R/C & parts, incl. service. Craft & educational kits, supplies, products. Clinics available. Tu-Sat 11 -6; Sun 12-4. www.debbiebartunek@mac.com

B.C.T. HOBBY & CRAFTS

201-C McCray St.

831-635-0537

Wide variety of plastic kits.

Old Nascar Kits - please call.

Mon - Sat 10-6. Closed Sunday.

R HOBBIES

562-777-9492

CALIFORNIA • Orange

New Products, Old Kits & Great Service!

Everything you need to build plastic models Armor, Aircraft, Ships, Cars, SciFi and more.

M-F 10:30-6pm, Sat 10:30-5pm, Sun 12-5pm www.militaryhobbiesonline.com

MILITARY HOBBIES

830 E. Lincoln Ave.

714-637-1211

Large inventory of models from the world over! Detailing accessories, research publications, games, trains, R/C, tools, and supplies. Easy access from D.I.A. http://www.colpar.com

COLPAR HOBBIES

1915 S. Havana St.

800-876-0414

Planes, tanks, cars, ships, rockets, plastic and wood kits. Trains. Authorized Lionel dealer & repair. Die-cast, RC, slot cars, structural and diorama supplier. Special orders welcome.

ANNÕS HOBBY CENTER

405 E. Putnam Avenue

203-869-0969

CONNECTICUT • East Windsor

Old & rare kits, largest selection in military kits, rockets, trains, & cars. Exit 45 off I-91.

10 minutes from Bradley Air Museum. www.craftechobbies.com or Visit us on Facebook.

CRAFTEC HOBBIES

144 North Road

860-627-7811

Largest hobby shop in NE. Military, cars, trucks, plastic models, diecast cars, trucks.

Planes, RC planes, cars, trucks, slot cars, rockets, Breyer, Detailing supplies, games!

Mon - Sat 10-8, Sun 10-6

TIME MACHINE HOBBY

860-646-0610

71 Hilliard St.

CONNECTICUT • Milford

Extensive selection of armor kits & Verlinden accessories. Military, auto & aircraft plastic models. Photo-etched parts. O gauge train sets. Open Tue-Sat 11-6, Sun 12-5. www.hqhobbiesonline.com

HQ HOBBIES

394 New Haven Ave., Unit 1

Your source for plastic models, die cast and all supplies needed to finish your latest model.

Mon-Sat 9:30-6, Sun 11-5. www.talbotstoyland.com

TALBOT’S HOBBIES

650-342-0126

203-882-1979

Huge selection of model kits & accessories.

Ships, Armor, Aircraft, Figures, Cars and more.

Visit: www.freetimehobbies.com for complete listing.

Monday to Friday 10-6, Saturday 10-2

FREE TIME HOBBIES

4167 East First St. (by KFC)

ILLINOIS • Elmhurst

For over 60 years largest hobby shop in the Chicago area at 6,800 sq. ft. Plastic models, paint; RC: cars, planes, helis, boats; Slot cars: HO, 1/32; Rockets. We ship world-wide, Email: models@alshobbyshop.com

AL'S HOBBY SHOP

121 N. Addison Ave.

630-832-4908

MASSACHUSETTS • Malden (Boston)

CONNECTICUT • Cos Cob

GEORGIA • Blue Ridge

CALIFORNIA • San Mateo

445 South ÒBÓ Street

COLORADO • Aurora

CONNECTICUT • Manchester

CALIFORNIA • La Mirada

14269 Imperial Hwy.

HobbyRetailer.com

706-946-1120

Largest store in area, easy access via I-93, Rt. 1, and the T. Complete line of model kits & supplies, plus toy soldiers, figure kits, games, etc. Shipping available.

Info: hobbybunker.com

HOBBY BUNKER, INC.

33 Exchange St.

781-321-8855

MASSACHUSETTS • Marlboro

Stop in ONCE! A customer for LIFE! We have 10,000+ models, tools, supplies, 23 paint lines, 50 model mags, 5,000+ books.

Est. in 1973, open 7 days, Th & Fr 'til 8.

Visit us @ www.sparetimeshop.com

THE SPARE TIME SHOP

Rt 20E Main, Post Rd. Plaza

508-481-5786

MASSACHUSETTS • Norton

6,000 model kits, old and new: Autos, armor, planes & sci-fi. Reference books & supplies.

Open T-Th 11-7, F 11-8, Sa 10-5. Rt. 495 to Rt. 123E, behind DunkinÕ Donuts. www. mymummy.com E: mummy@mymummy.com

HARRYÕS HOBBIES & COLLECTABLES

250 E. Main St., Rt 123

508-285-8080

MICHIGAN • Royal Oak (Metro Detroit)

New & Old Toy Soldiers, Historical Miniatures, Models and Figure Kits from Around the World. Our famous selection of hobby supplies includes scenics, paints, reference and more. www.michtoy.com

MICHIGAN TOY SOLDIER & FIGURE CO.

1400 E. 11 Mile Rd.

248-586-1022

MICHIGAN • Traverse City Let your imagination run wild!

Aircraft, ships, cars, armor, special orders, diecast cars, dollhouse miniatures, model railroading Z to G and more...

TRAINS & THINGS HOBBIES

210 East Front St.

May 2013

231-947-1353

www.FineScale.com

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MICHIGAN • Ypsilanti-Metro Detroit

OHIO • Cleveland (Lakewood)

Michigan’s largest selection of kits. All types and scales plus supplies. Hard to find kits and current issues. Wed-Sat 11-8, Sun 12-5.

15 minutes west of DTW via I-94.

MODELCAVE

103 W Michigan Avenue

734-316-2281

NEVADA • Las Vegas

WINGS HOBBY SHOP

17112 Detroit Ave.

HOBBYTOWN USA

702-889-9554

NEW HAMPSHIRE • Dover

Both complete stores. Great selection of Model Kits, accessories, detail parts, magazines, tools & paints. www.hobbylandstores.com

HOBBYLAND

Graceland Shopping Center Reynoldsburg

ELITE HOBBIES

603-749-0800

NEW JERSEY • Kenvil

Oklahoma’s largest plastic kit, paint and aftermarket inventory. Planes, cars, trucks, armor, ships, trains and sci-fi. Special orders welcome! Mon - Fri 10-7, Sat 11-6, Sun 1-5.

Web site: www.topshelfmodelsllc.com

TOP SHELF MODELS

OREGON • Beaverton

KENVIL HOBBIES

973-584-1188

NEW JERSEY • Magnolia (Camden)

TAMMIES HOBBIES

12024 SW Canyon Rd.

AAA HOBBIES & CRAFTS

856-435-7645

503-644-4535

OREGON • Portland

Armor, aircraft ships and car models.

Historical and fantasy games, miniatures, military history reference books and magazines. www.bthobbies.com Open 10am-6pm every day.

BRIDGETOWNE HOBBIES & GAMES,

3350 NE Sandy Blvd

503-234-1881

NEW YORK • Astoria L.I.C. www.HobbyRetailer.com Click it! Find it! Now!

RUDY'S HOBBY & ART

Military oriented hobby shop. Armour, naval & aircraft models. Aftermarket products, dioramas and diorama products, books, mags, tools, paints, war videos & more. Call for hrs. www.alsandmdseco.com

ALSAND’S TOY SOLDIERS PLUS

631-254-2650

NEW YORK • Middle Island

PENNSYLVANIA • Salunga (Lancaster) Large Selection New & Used Kits Military books, tools, paint, airbrushes Full line hobby shop open Tuesday-Saturday. www.CoolTrains.com

COOLTRAINS TOYS & HOBBIES

106 W. Main Street

717-898-7119

TENNESSEE • Knoxville

MEN AT ARMS HOBBIES, INC.

631-924-0583

NEW YORK • Upr Eastside GR Manhattan Visit our in-house Aircraft Model Museum.

Foreign and domestic plastic and wood kits.

Open 7 days.

JAN'S HOBBY SHOP, INC.

1435 Lexington Ave.

TEXAS • Houston

G & G MODEL SHOP

2522 Times Blvd.

713-529-7752

TEXAS • Houston

LARRYÕS HOBBIES

281-443-7373

Broad selection of foreign & domestic model kits: aircraft, armor, diecast, decals, autos, detail parts, trains, slot cars, books, tools, collectibles, old kits. We buy unbuilt models.

Special orders welcome. www.mmhobby.com

M & M HOBBY CENTER

6703 Chimney Rock

713-661-7137

TEXAS • Irving (Dallas Area)

Imported & Domestic Aviation Books & Plastic Kits. Paint, Decals, HO, N trains, R/C, U/C airplanes.

Mon 1-6, Tue-Wed 12-6, Thur-Fri 10:30-7.

Sat 10:30-6. www.malhobby.com

M-A-L HOBBY SHOP

108 S. Lee Street

972-438-9233

212-987-4765

Scale modeling from beginner to expert.

A wide selection of aircraft, armor, autos, figures, ships, & sci-fi. Lots of reference material, detail parts, decals, tools, & eight lines of paint. Open Tues-Sat 10-6pm.

East TennesseeÕs largest plastic model selection. 7,500 sq. ft. of hobbies & toys.

Located in KnoxvilleÕs premier shopping destination. Turkey Creek Area.

Open 7 days a week.

HOBBYTOWN USA

11364 Parkside Dr.

865-675-1975

TENNESSEE • Murfreesboro

Rutherford Co.Õs largest selection of hobby items. Carrying a wide variety of plastic & wood models, paints, tools & supplies.

Located just off I-24 on Medical Center Pkwy (exit 76). Open M-F 10-7; Sat 10-5.

HOBBYTOWN USA

536-J N.Thompson Ln.

Ad Index

615-890-6777

210-735-7721

TEXAS • San Antonio

Plastic kits/references/paints/tools from around the world. Special orders welcome.

Discounts to IPMS military, firefighters, police, etc. Open Tues-Wed 12-7, Thur-Sat 10-7, Sun 1-5. www.hillcountryhobby.com

HILL COUNTRY HOBBY

9355 Bandera Rd., Ste. 109

210-681-2007

VIRGINIA • Chantilly

Minutes from Dulles Airport & New Dulles Air & Space Museum, Udvar-Hazy Center.

PLASTIC! PLASTIC! PLASTIC! Kits for aircraft - armor - ships - cars Daily 12-8; Sun 12-5. www.piperhobby.com

PIPER HOBBY

13892 Metrotech Dr.

703-803-3103

VIRGINIA • Midlothian (Richmond)

Plastic and wood model kits. Tamiya, Hasegawa, Fujimi, Ertl, Lindberg, Monogram, Revell, Artesania, Midwest. E-mail: chsthobb@verizon.net Hours: Mon, Wed, Thur 10-6, Tue, Fri 10-8, Sat 10-5:30, Sun 12:30-5

CHESTERFIELD HOBBIES

13154 Midlothian Tnpk.

Plastic model specialty shop.

New and old kits, foreign, domestic, books, paints and other accessories.

We also buy collections. www.dhcinc.com dhc@dhcinc.com

DENBIGH HOBBY CENTER, INC.

14351 Warwick Blvd.

757-874-5708

Large selection of plastic car and plane kits, Wooden boat kits and accessories,, Scratch builders supplies - tools - paint, Military games www.garysgamesandhobbies.com

GARY'S GAMES AND HOBBIES

8539 Greenwood Ave. N.

206-789-8891

WASHINGTON • Seattle

Scale model cars, armor, aircraft, diecast.

All kinds of plastic and wooden ships.

Mon-Thurs 10-6, Fri & Sat 10-7, Sun 12-5.

156-F FM 1960 East

VIRGINIA • Newport News

WASHINGTON • Seattle

HO & N, Lionel trains.

Complete line of plastic kits, military and architecture supplies.

Open 11am-6pm, Sat. 10am-5pm

1029 Donaldson Ave.

Excellent selection of lead miniatureshistorical and fantasy. Plastic models, wargames & modeling supplies.

Books and magazines.

134 Middle Country Rd.

806-352-9660

DIBBLE'S HOBBIES

718-545-8280

NEW YORK • Deer Park

848 Long Island Ave.

HOBBY TIME

3601 Airway Blvd.

TEXAS • San Antonio

Car, Plane, Military, Models, Trains, Paints, Tools, Diecast.

Art Supplies, Wood & Wood Models Open Wed., Thur., Fri., Sat. 11:00 to 6:30.

35-16 30th Avenue

Plastic aircraft, armor, cars, figures & ships, model railroading supplies & rockets.

Take Osage exit I-40, South to 34th St. Right 1/2 mile to Tradewind Business Park, turn left to 3601. http://www.hobby-time.com

TEXAS • Houston area (Bellaire)

Complete full line hobby shop.

Z, N, HO, O, Lionel, and LGB. Open Mon-Fri 10-8, Sat 10-5, Sun 12-5.

Huge foreign & domestic model selection all scales. Automobiles, aircraft ship, books, wargames, scenery, diorama supplies, parts, tools. Open 7 days 706 N. White Horse Pike

918-274-0433

119 S. Main St.

Full service hobbies, a full line of HO, N, 3-Rail, military, cars, boats, planes, dollhouses, scratchbuilding supplies, plus details-details-details!

590 Rt. 46

614-888-7500 614-866-5011

OKLAHOMA • Owasso

Best plastic, resin & balsa kits from around the world. Scratch building & diorama supplies, reference books, large paint selection including Humbrol, Citadel & Testors #334 90 Washington St.

216-221-5383

OHIO • Columbus

While in Las Vegas, come see our wide selection of models and detail accessories.

Less than 5 miles off the Las Vegas strip Hours Mon-Fri 10-7, Sat 10-6, Sun noon-5.

4590 W Sahara Ave Ste 103

TEXAS • Amarillo

Large selection of aviation and military books and magazines, general hobbies.

804-379-9091

Plastic Model Specialists. Large selection of rare & out-of-production models.

Large selection of detail parts. Largest selection of plastic models in South Seattle! www.skywaymodel.com

SKYWAY MODEL SHOP

12615 Renton Ave. South

206-772-1211

WASHINGTON • Tacoma

Plastic, Wood, Diecast kits & collectibles Armor, Aircraft, Cars, Ships, Balsa Planes Huge selection Paints & Tools, OOP & Current issues. Open: Mon-Sat; closed Sundays www.ubhobbies.com

DISCOUNT MODELS

8216-C 27th St. W.

253-460-6781

CANADAÐAB • Calgary

Specializing in R/C models and accessories, helicopters, planes, cars, trucks, boats, plastic, die-cast & model rockets.

M T W F 9:30-6, Th 9:30-8 Sat. 9:30-5 www.modelland.com info@modelland.com

MODEL LAND LTD

3409A 26 Ave. SW

403-249-1661

CANADAÐON • Ottawa (Vanier) One of Canada's leading model shops.

Complete line of military & aircraft kits, decals, paints and accessories.

Free parking. On Parle Francais.

HOBBY HOUSE, LTD

80 Montreal Rd.

613-749-5245

CANADAÐON • Toronto Large selection of new & out-of-production kits. Accessories & finishing products.

Servicing the hobbies since 1986. We buy kit collections. www.wheelswingshobbies.com

WHEELS AND WINGS

1880 Danforth Ave.

416-752-0071

CANADAÐQC • Dorval

We take care of special orders.

Specializing in out of the ordinary kits, military, armour, figurines, planes, detail parts, decals, resin, photoetched conversions, books, mags. Many special discount prices.

HOBBY JUNCTION EXPRESS

1761 Cardinal

514-631-3504

SINGAPORE • Singapore

Old kits & latest releases. Good selection of unusual model kits & accessories. We stock electric trains & slot cars. Open 7 days, 1pm-8pm. In the Katong Shopping Centre. www.hobbybounties.com

HOBBY BOUNTIES & MORGAN HOBBYCRAFT

865 Mountbatten Rd #02-91/92

65-6440-1890

Evergreen Scale Models _____________ 21

Pace Enterprises ____________________ 7

Fantastic Plastic Models _____________ 64

ParaGrafix Modeling Systems _________ 7

FriulModel KFT ____________________ 7

Plastruct, Inc. _____________________ 47

FineScale Modeler Downloadable _____ 61

Revell, Inc.________________________ 11

FineScale Modeler magazine _________ 64

Roberts Model ____________________ 64

FineScale Modeler on DVD__________ 51

Roll Models_____________________ 7, 51

Full Circle Hobbies _________________ 64

Round 2, LLC_____________________ 19

Hobbymex ________________________ 64

Sprue Brothers ____________________ 11

1001 Modelkits ____________________ 11

Hornby America ___________________ 47

Squadron Mail Order ________________ 3

Acme Hobbies ____________________ 64

IPMS Northern Virginia Model ______ 21

Strike Force Hobbies _______________ 64

Alpha Precision Abrasives, Inc.________ 21

JAC Hobbies ______________________ 51

Tamiya America Inc._________________ 4

ARA Press________________________ 20

J Bar Hobbies _____________________ 47

Tom’s Modelworks _________________ 47

Bluejacket Shipcrafters ______________ 47

Loyalhanna Dockyard/Taubman ______ 51

TotalNavy.com ____________________ 51

Cedar Creek Trading Post ___________ 64

Megahobby.com ___________________ 64

Toy Train Heaven __________________ 11

Colpar’s Hobbytown USA ___________ 64

Modeler.US _______________________ 64

Wargaming America _________________ 9

Combat Models ___________________ 64

Model Rectifier Corp._______________ 68

Wizbe Innovations _________________ 19

Dean’s Hobby Stop _________________ 64

Movie Classics LLC ________________ 64

Xuron Corporation _________________ 47

Dragon Models USA _______________ 67

Oldmodelkits.com _________________ 64

Zoukei-Mura Inc. ___________________ 2

We believe that our readers are as important as our advertisers. If you do not receive your merchandise or a reply from an advertiser within a reasonable period, please contact us. Provide details about what you ordered and the amount you paid. If no action is obtained after we forward your complaint to the advertiser, we will not accept further advertising from them. FineScale Modeler magazine, 21027 Crossroads Circle, Waukesha, WI 53187 Te Advertiser Index is provided as a service to FineScale Modeler magazine readers. Te magazine is not responsible for omissions or for typographical errors in names or page numbers.

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FineScale Modeler

May 2013

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