fm.12.2012

ZOUKEI-MURA’S AMAZING NEW P-51 REVIEWED » December 2012 www.FineScale.com See page 54 for our expanded review of this new 1/32 scale Mustang kit

TURN A GREAT KIT INTO A

MASTERPIECE LEARN THE FINE ART OF SUPERDETAILING FROM A MASTER MODELER p.24

TOOLS FOR IMPRO V YOURING VISION p.36

Chuck Sawyer’s 1/32 scale F-4E Phantom

HOW TO

Fine-tune your airbrushing setup p.20 Improve your next armor project p.44

p.40

THE FSM TEAM BUILDS & REVIEWS

STEP-BY-STEP: BUILD YOUR OWN DISPLAY CASES 8 NEW KITS! p.62

p.57 p.59

BONUS ONLINE CONTENT PAGE 5 Vol. 30 • Issue 12

“…an absolute blast.”

— PC Gamer Magazine

TM

World of Tanks™ is a team-based, free, online game dedicated to armored warfare in the mid-20th century.

Throw yourself into epic tank battles and dominate the world with tank supremacy!

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All images, content, and text © 2012 Wargaming.net LLP. All rights reserved. WORLD OF TANKS , WORLD OF WARPLANES, WARGAMING.NET and the WORLD OF TANKS , WORLD OF WARPLANES, WARGAMING.NET logos are registered trademarks of Wargaming.net LLP in the United States. All other marks are trademarks or service marks of their respective owners.

Inside

December 2012 • Vol. 30 • No. 10 Website Access Code: FSM1212 Enter this code at www.FineScale.com/code to gain access to web-exclusive content.

56

AIRBRUSHING & FINISHING

20

Air pressure

Dial in the right amount of air to get the job done.

AARON SKINNER

8 NEW KITS p. 54

COVER STORY

24

WORKBENCH REVIEWS

Part 2: Finishing a big Phantom Details, painting, and weathering bring this fighter in from the Cold War. CHUCK SAWYER

• Zoukei-Mura P-51D Mustang

58

• Kitty Hawk F-94C Starfire • Platz X-47B U.S. Navy UCAS • Meng Merkava Mk.IIID

FSM SPECIAL REPORT

36

See what you’re doing Vision aids focus on models.

MARK HEMBREE

40

Make your own display case If you can build a model, you can build this easy-to-make display case.

THOMAS M. BARNES

44

Building a Panzer IV

Even extremely detailed kits can use a little more than what comes in the box.

60

• Trumpeter BRDM-2 • Zvezda Boeing 747-8 • Meng Mansyu Ki-98 • Roden C-124A Globemaster II

61

In Every Issue 6 8 12 14 32

Editor’s Page Scale Talk Spotlight New Products Reader Gallery

50 52 63 64 65

Questions & Answers Reader Tips Hobby Shop Directory Classified Marketplace Advertiser Index

On the Cover From his Avro Lancaster in FSM’s special issue Build Better Model Aircraft through Part 2 of his current build of Tamiya’s 1/32 scale F-4 Phantom, Chuck Sawyer takes superdetailing to new heights.

BILL PLUNK

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FineScale Modeler (ISSN 0277-979X, USPS No. 679-590) is published monthly (except for June & August) by Kalmbach Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187. Periodicals Postage is paid at Waukesha, WI and additional ofces. Postmaster: Send address changes to FineScale Modeler, 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612. Canada Post Publication Mail Agreement #40010760.

Editor’s Page

By Matthew Usher

There’s nothing like that new-kit smell A fEW dAyS AGo I was visitMy love of cars (and model ing one of my favorite hobby shops building) comes from my father. (where I’m very much a “regular”) He owned a lot of different cars in during my lunch hour. Apparently his lifetime, but I think it would I got there just as the be easy to describe him day’s packages arrived in LOTS OF as “an Oldsmobile man.” the mail. A couple of Our family’s first new car GREAT minutes later, the staff was an Olds, and others MEMORIES was unpacking their first HAVE BEEN followed over the years. copies of Revell’s all-new FLOODING Those full-size four1950 Oldsmobile Club BACK AS I’VE doors may have looked Coupe. conservative, but dad STARTED “I’m going to need one always ordered them with WORKING of those,” I mentioned as big V-8s, so they had the counter filled up with plenty of power. Learning rows of new kits. “Actually...I’m to drive in one of them as a teengoing to need a couple of them.” ager was a real lesson in restraint Soon I was out the door with my for me, and undoubtedly a real purchases, and in keeping with lesson in patience for my father. the new-kit tradition, I immediUnlike my dad, I’ll never have ately took a few minutes to pore the chance to walk into a dealerover the part trees and the decal ship and pick out a new sheet while sitting in the front seat Oldsmobile. But after my trip to of my car. the hobby shop, I have a couple of

smaller versions to call my own.

More importantly, lots of memories of my dad have been flooding back as I’ve started working.

FSM’s own Associate Editor just published his second book, Modeling Airliners. Aaron’s a great builder and the book would make a great addition to your library. To buy a copy, visit your hobby shop, or go to www.HobbyRetailer.com, www.KalmbachStore, or call 1-800-533-6644. The full-color, 80-page book is $19.95.

editor@finescale.com

www.FineScale.com Want to learn more? For the latest news as well as modeling tips and techniques, visit our website at www.FineScale.com

Contact Us GENERAL

SCALE TALK

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6

FineScale Modeler

December 2012

READER GALLERY

Show off your handiwork! Mail digital images or prints along with complete caption information to “Reader Gallery” (address at left), or upload digital images and caption information at www.

Contribute.Kalmbach.com. We prefer unedited, “camera raw”

digital images. Photos are paid for at publication; if you live in the U.S., include your Social Security number so we can pay you. FSM obtains all publication rights (including electronic rights) to the images upon payment. Unused photos are returned only if you provide sufficient postage and packing materials.

QUESTIONS & ANSWERS

Got a modeling problem? Our Questions & Answers column is here to help. Mail questions to “Q&A” (address at left), e-mail questions@finescale.com, or visit FineScale.com and click on “Contact Us.” (For scale modeling basics, visit our website and look through our “How To” article archives.) We are not able to conduct lengthy research, such as answering questions on markings and unit histories. We publish

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Editor Matthew W. Usher Associate Editor Mark Hembree Associate Editor Tim Kidwell Associate Editor Aaron Skinner Editorial Associate Monica Freitag Art Director Tom Ford Senior Graphic Designer Patti L. Keipe Illustrator Jay W. Smith Photographers Jim Forbes, William Zuback Production Supervisor Helene Tsigistras Production Coordinator Cindy Barder Group Circulation Manager Kristin Johnson Circulation Coordinator Carly Witkowski Publisher Terry D. Thompson CONTACT US

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Printed in U.S.A.

Scale Talk Your voice in FSM

Classic bomb ketch kit

This past June was the bicentennial of the War of 1812. I suggest that you feature Pyro’s British bomb ketch in your “classic kit” section. These ships were used at Fort McHenry and during the New Orleans campaign, and as convoy escorts against American privateers.

Seeing as it’s one of Pyro’s nicer models, I don’t know why they don’t reissue it.

- John Pauly Buffalo, N.Y.

Over the years, there has been a lot of talk concerning the Pyro bomb ketch kit on the FSM Forum. After a little digging on the Internet, I found the kit was reissued by Lindberg in the early ’80s and possibly Revell after that.

Thanks for the recommendation! We’ll see what we can do. – Tim Kidwell Ships in resin but not plastic

I have been a loyal FSM reader for many years and will be for many years to come — I hope.

There are many great models out there; my favorites are 1/350 scale ships. However, many ships are only available as resin kits. I don’t know what other modelers think, but the resin ships are expensive and more than I want to pay.

Why haven’t model companies kitted more World War II destroyer classes; ships at Pearl Harbor, such as the repair ship USS Vestal; and heavy and light cruisers?

I know the process to create a new model is expensive, but, it seems to me, companies would make up the cost of putting new ships into production and make a nice profit for the company. I’m hopeful that one day these forgotten ships will be produced in plastic at 1/350 scale.

- Joe Sexton Linwood, N.C.

Thanks for reading, Joe! While plastic model companies have begun to produce more rarely seen subjects, such as Bronco’s 1/35 scale Hotchkiss and Tamiya’s 1/35 scale Simca 5, we see this adventuresome spirit exhibited most with armor models. Our reader polls and numbers accepted widely by the industry show that ship modelers aren’t as numerous as aircraft or armor modelers. Knowing this, model manufacturers typically pick ships with highly recognizable names that will have good market penetration and are more likely to be purchased by a modeler who dabbles in ships.

Don’t lose hope, though. Zvezda released a 8

FineScale Modeler

December 2012

Love for September’s issue James Green’s article about how he superdetailed Hasegawa’s 1/48 scale Nakajima Ki-27 “Nate” reminded me of a Chinese film I own on DVD called “Axis of War: Night Raid.”

Set during the second Sino-Japanese war, the Japanese plane featured in the film is the Ki-27. The Nates are a mixture of computer-generated flying shots, non-flying 1:1 replicas with working props, and models for pyrotechnics. However, the Nates possess inaccuracies, such as the lack of radio aerials and pilot’s gun sights.

And the machine guns are fitted into the wings. I’m no expert on World War II Japanese aircraft, but I thought the Nate’s machine guns fired through the nose.

I also like the piece on Jim Wechsler’s Sherman tanks. His Pakistani M4A1E4(76) and the “Kelly’s Heroes” M4A3E4(78) models are my favorites. I even have Mr. Wechsler’s book. I hope he builds a model of the M4A1E8(76). To many science-fiction fans, this Sherman will always be known as the “War of the Worlds” Sherman from the 1953 film.

- Gary Watson Cramlington, Northumberland, England

1/700 scale HMS Dreadnought last year — an unusual subject and era. As companies look for kits that differentiate them from the competition, we may well see more plastic kits of the sorts of ships you mention. – T.K. The easy way out

I’m still scratching my head over the “easy way out” reader tip in the September 2012 issue. What on earth was this guy talking about? What do fogged canopies have to

do with putting planes on “boards?” I read it over several times and have no idea what he was talking about.

- Dave Musikoff Pasadena, Calif.

Hi, Dave! The fellow’s point was that instead of trying to repair or replace a damaged canopy, he could use what he had and replicate a plane that had been turned into a monument — the sort of thing you see on a concrete pad or

© 2012 Gorilla Glue Company

Finally, A Tough Super Glue Made in

USA

Scale Talk mounted on a girder outside a VFW or an American Legion post. Sorry for any confusion.

Thanks for writing and for reading FSM. We appreciate it! – Mark Hembree Misfortune and the rules of review

Mark E. Horan, who commented on my review of Great Wall Hobby’s 1/48 scale TBD-1 Devastator (October 2012 FSM, Page 8), is correct regarding its armament and canopy. While building the kit for review, I found no apparent way to mount the double gun deployed. What’s more, the kit’s multi-part canopy had been destroyed by my cat!

In building review models, the modeler has to use the kit parts with no modification unless absolutely necessary. I considered cutting the one-piece canopy to display it open, but it would have been too risky so close to a deadline.

HOW-TO

Scan for Video

www.GorillaTough.com 1-800-966-3458

PRODUCTS & REVIEWS

Now at

Regarding the markings, I must use the decals in the kit. Any missing markings are the fault of the kit maker, not the modeler.

So, the issues pointed out resulted from a combination of misfortune on my part and not being able to modify parts to depict the model as accurately as may be desired.

Thanks for your input on my review!

- Matthew Walker West Bend, Wis. Let us know what you think!

E-mail your comments, suggestions, corrections, and additional views on FSM to editor@FineScale.com, or visit FineScale.com and click on “Contribute to FSM.” You can also mail typed or hand-printed letters to the address on Page 6.

VIDEOS

COMMUNITY

GALLERIES

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www.FineScale.com/HowTo Article archive Search our article collection to find answers to your modeling questions.

Tips database Need modeling advice? Subscribers can search our extensive database of reader-supplied tips.

www.FineScale.com/OnlineExtras

FSM Workshop Insights with Richard Guetig Associate Editor Aaron Skinner talks to Richard about painting and finishing his StuH42 AMPS national convention entry.

Desktop wallpaper Download a desktop wallpaper of the Trumpeter 1/32 scale Lockheed F-117A Nighthawk Larry Schramm built for review in October’s issue.

www.FineScale.com/Reviews Workbench Reviews Subscribers receive early access to upcoming reviews.

Weekly free review Check out this week’s free model kit review.

New Product Rundown Editorial Associate Monica Freitag and Associate Editor Aaron Skinner pick the hottest releases and show you why they rock.

www.FineScale.com/Videos Video issue previews FSM Editor Matthew Usher highlights what’s inside the current and past issues.

SUBSCRIBE AT FINESCALE.COM AND GET IMMEDIATE ACCESS The FSM+ icon indicates subscriber-only content

10

FineScale Modeler

December 2012

Spotlight Compiled by Aaron Skinner

Odd and unusual armor kits aplenty

A

nyone who wonders about how good it is to be a modeler should look at the variety of military vehicles appearing as kits in recent months.

Tamiya continues to surprise with its choice of subjects. The Japanese manufacturer’s recent kits have included a 1/35 scale Elefant tank hunter and a 1/48 scale Il-2 Shturmovik, both perennially popular subjects. The latest 1/35 scale military miniature is a Simca 5 (No. 35321). Introduced in 1936, the French built twoseater, designed by Fiat as the 500, incorporated several advanced features, including an independent front suspension, a four-speed transmission, hydraulically operated drum brakes on all four wheels, and a 12-volt electrical system.

Molded in medium-gray

12

FineScale Modeler

plastic, Tamiya’s diminutive kit has a lot of nice features in spite of its size. They include separate doors, crisp details, a retracted canvas roof, optional open or closed side windows, and a choice of military or civilian headlights. Smart engineering means many critical parts, such as the windshield, can be installed after painting.

A German military driver is included to complement two of the marking options: a 3rd Infantry Division vehicle on the Eastern Front (I wonder how it handled the winters!) and a Luftwaffe car; both are overall dark gray. The third finishing option is a black civilian vehicle.

This is one of those lesserknown vehicles that can make an interesting partner for a Tiger I or other large tank in a diorama.

Distributed in the United

December 2012

States by Tamiya America, 800-8264922, www.tamiyausa.com, the Simca 5 costs $29.

Speaking of unusual vehicles, check out HobbyBoss’ 1/35 scale SdKfz 254 tracked armored scout car (No. 82491).

Designed by Saurer of Austria before World War II, the unique vehicle could run either on tracks or on four retractable wheels.

HobbyBoss’ tan plastic has finely molded surface features, a detailed suspension with the option to display the wheels up or down, individual-link tracks, and decals for at least two vehicles, one overall dark gray and one in Afrika Korps desert camo.

Distributed in the U.S. by Squadron, 877-414-0434, www.squadron.com, the SdKfz 254 costs $51.99.

The third kit that caught my eye this month is Meng’s 1/35 scale A39 Tortoise (No. TS-002). The Tortoise was a British heavy assault vehicle with a 32-pounder as its main armament. Only six were completed by the time

WWII ended and the program was cancelled.

Molded in dark green plastic, the parts feature nice surface detail, such as the roughcast texture on the upper hull, and parts like grab handles are scale thin. The complicated suspension is thoughtfully engineered and includes individual-link tracks.

Distributed in the United States by Stevens International, the Tortoise kit costs $69.95.

BOOKSHELF

Calling Lancaster fans

G

Sprue cutters, painting stands, and wire wheels now available from UMM-USA

M

aster modeler John Vojtech has been focused on creating and selling tools under the banner of his company UMM-USA. He has several more for sale now, including the Precision Sprue Cutter (No. GMT-01). Shaped like a pair of tweezers, the sprue cutter is tipped by a pair of sharp blades that come to a fine point on one side, making it easy to maneuver in tight spaces. John says the cutter is specially designed to remove delicate parts from sprues and works great for photoetched-metal. The hardened-steel tool will cut wire, too. The cutter is available from UMM-USA, 847-537-0867, www. umm-usa.com, for $12.99.

To make painting straight lines easier, John developed the Adjustable Airbrush Guide (No. AAG-01). This simple tool consists of a wooden rod suspended between two frames of 1⁄8" plywood and held in position by adjustable wing nuts so the height can be changed. You position the

rod over or alongside the model, then run the airbrush along it to create a straight line. The guide costs $28.95.

John is also selling JH Models plywood painting and transport jigs. Available in several sizes to suit models from 1/72 to 1/24 scale, and constructed from press-out, die-cut 1⁄8" plywood, the jig is adjustable in several directions. Rubber bands can be fitted over the wings and fuselage to secure the model to the stand — especially useful for transport because the model won’t move and isn’t resting on its landing gear. The prices range from $28.99 to $34.99.

At the end of October, John offered a new product line: wire-spoke wheels. These handmade wheels, sold under the brand Scale Spokes, www.scalespokes.com, will be available in 1/144, 1/72, 1/48, 1/32, and 1/35 scales. With aluminum hubs and rims, copper-wire spokes, and rubber tires, each will be designed to fit a particular aircraft.

Price is expected to be $20.

reat Britain built more than 7,000 Avro Lancasters; the four-engine aircraft became symbolic of the Royal Air Force Bomber Command’s war effort. Like the B-17, the Lancaster is a favorite among modelers in all the popular scales, including 1/144, 1/72, and 1/48 — and now HK Models has announced a 1/32 scale kit!

That makes Lancaster Squadrons of World War II in Focus, by Mark Postlethwaite (Red Kite, ISBN 9781-906592-05-9) a welcome addition to any Lanc fan’s references.

After a brief introduction to the heavy bomber’s history, variants, equipment, and markings, Postlethwaite gets to the meat of the book: one-, two-, or three-page descriptions of each of the more than 60 RAF squadrons that were equipped with Lancasters. Each features a data sidebar with the code letters — useful if you need to identify an aircraft from a photo — as well as the base the aircraft operated from, number of sorties flown, and number of aircraft lost. The highlight is the photos. Most are large and clear, with lots of detail, nose art, and weathering examples for modelers.

The 128-page, soft-cover volume is available from Wing Leader Books in the United Kingdom, 44-0845095-0346, www.wingleader.co.uk, for $40.

December 2012 www.finescale.com

13

New Products

Compiled by Monica Freitag

AIRCR AFT 1/32 Scale KitS

antonov aN-2/aN-2cX colt, No. 81705,

$68.99. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM. From HobbyBoss, available from Squadron Products.

Mitsubishi a6M2b Zero Fighter (Zeke),

No. 60780, $28. From Tamiya America Inc.

1/72 Detail SetS Hawk Missile, No. 85-7813, $27.95. Mobile anti-aircraft guided-missile system, fully operating model. Crew of four. From Renwal Blueprint Models. From Revell.

1/48 Scale KitS

P-47D thunderbolt fighter, No. 85804,

$22.99. Easy assembly. From HobbyBoss, available from Squadron Products.

WWii allied medium bomber tarmac print, No. NM72008, $6.75. From Noy’s

Miniatures.

1/200 Scale KitS

Mosquito Mk.iV Royal canadian air Force, No. 85-5320, $22.95. From Revell.

MiG-23M “Flogger-B” Russian fighter,

No. 2853, $57.95. From Trumpeter, available from Stevens International.

1/72 Scale KitS

XB-35 Flying Wing, No. 2017, $24.95.

From Cyber-hobby.com, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

aH-1F cobra gunship, No. 85-5321,

$19.95. From Revell.

Grumman F6F-3 Hellcat, No. 5060,

$34.95. Golden Wings Series. From Cyberhobby.com, available from Dragon Models USA Inc. Messerschmitt Bf 109F-2 German fighter,

No. 7302, $12.50. Snap fit. From Zvezda, available from Dragon Models USA Inc. F-86F Sabre jet, No. 85-5319, $19.95. From

Revell.

14

FineScale Modeler

December 2012

Boeing 787-8 aNa, No. 10716, $42.99.

Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM. From Hasegawa, available from Great Planes Model Distributors.

SUBSCRIBER-ONLY CONTENT More than 12,000 product listings online at FineScale.com/Products

1/700 SCALE KITS JMDF Helicopter set,

No. 002667, $14.95.

SH-60K, MCH101, MH-53E, UH-60J. From Aoshima, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

AR MOR 1/35 SCALE KITS

SdKfz 3a Maultier half-track, No. 6761, $48.95. 1939-1945 series, Smart Kit. From Dragon, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

SdKfz 184 Ferdinand Kursk 1943,

Firefly Ic welded hull, No. 6568, $52.95.

1939-1945 series, Smart Kit. From Dragon, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

German SdKfz 254 tracked armored scout car, No. 82491, $51.99. From HobbyBoss,

Casemate Publishers 908 Darby Road Havertown, PA 19083 610-853-9131 www.casematepublishing.com

A39 Tortoise British heavy assault tank,

Dragon Models USA Inc. 1315 John Reed Ct. City of Industry, CA 91745 626-968-0322 www.dragonmodelsusa.com Great Planes Model Distributors P.O. Box 9021 Champaign, IL 61826-9021 217-398-6300 www.greatplanes.com Meng-Model www.meng-model.com

Hungarian 40/43M Zrinyi II 105mm assault gun, No. CB35036, $59.95. From

Bronco Models, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

available from Squadron Products.

Manufacturer Directory Aero Research Co. 6468 Valley Wood Dr. Reno, NV 89523-1263 www.AeroResearchCDs.com

No. TS-002, $69.95. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM. From Meng-Model, available from Stevens International.

No. 6495, $49.95. 1939-1945 series, Premium Edition. From Dragon, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

Model Rectifier Corporation 80 Newfield Avenue P.O. Box 6312 Edison, NJ 08837 732-225-2100 www.modelrectifier.com

Motorbooks International 400 First Ave. North, Suite 300 Minneapolis, MN 55401 612-344-8161 www.motorbooks.com

Squadron Products 1115 Crowley Dr. Carrollton, TX 75011-5010 877-414-0434 www.squadron.com

Noy’s Miniatures 90 Shderot Ben Gurion St. Tel Avia, 64515 Israel 972-50-5328587

Stevens International P.O. Box 126 706 N. White Horse Pike Magnolia, NJ 08049 856-435-1555

Osprey Publishing Elms Court, Chapel Way Botley, Oxford England OX2 9LP 44-1865 727022 www.ospreypublishing.com

Tamiya America Inc. 36 Discovery, Ste. 200 Irvine, CA 92618-3765 949-362-2240 www.tamiyausa.com

Revell 1850 Howard Street, Unit A Elk Grove Village, IL 60007 847-758-3200 www.revell.com

Valiant Wings Publishing 8 West Grove Bedford, UK MK40 4BT 44-012340273434 www.valiant-wings.co.uk

Squadron/Signal Publications 1115 Crowley Dr. Carrollton, TX 75006-1312 www.squadron.com

December 2012 www.FineScale.com

15

New Products

Ya-12 Soviet artillery tractor early production, No. 35052, $82. WWII Military

M1083 medium tactical vehicle US cargo truck, No. 1007, $77.95. From Trumpeter,

available from Stevens International.

Miniatures Series. From MiniArt, available from Model Rectifier Corporation.

M4A3 76mm, No. 7521, $21.50. Fast

assembly kit. Wargames Approved. From Italeri, available from Model Rectifier Corporation.

Flakpanzer IV “Ostwind,� No. 6550,

$54.95. Smart Kit. From Dragon, available from Dragon Models USA Inc. French EBR-10 wheeled reconnaissance vehicle, No. 82489, $51.99. Look for a

detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM. From HobbyBoss, available from Squadron Products.

PzKpfw III Ausf N with side-skirt armor,

No. 7407, $19.95. Armor Pro. From Dragon, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

1/100 SCALE KITS German light armored car SdKfz 222, No.

6157, $4.95. From Zvezda, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

MILITARY FIGURES Cannone da 47/32 Mod.39 with crew,

1/35 SCALE KITS

No. 6490, $47. From Italeri, available from Model Rectifier Corporation.

1/72 SCALE KITS Hungarian light tank 38M Toldi I (A20),

No. 82477, $47.99. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM. From HobbyBoss, available from Squadron Products.

IDF Merkava Mk.IIID, No. 82441, $73.99.

From HobbyBoss, available from Squadron Products.

16

FineScale Modeler

December 2012

Soviet 76mm infantry gun with crew, No. 6145, $4.95. From Zvezda, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

Close combat US tank crew, No. 35135, $23. WWII Military Miniatures Series. From MiniArt, available from Model Rectifier Corporation.

Pushing Soviet soldiers, No. 35137, $23.

WWII Military Miniatures Series. From MiniArt, available from Model Rectifier Corporation.

Japanese tank crew, No. 35128, $23.

WWII Military Miniatures Series. From MiniArt From Model Rectifier Corporation.

1/72 SCALE KITS

From Dragon, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

German Gebirgsjäger 1939-1943, No.

6154, $4.95. From Zvezda, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

SHIPS 1/350 SCALE KITS

HMS Antelope Type 21 frigate Falklands,

No. 7122, $28.95. From cyber-hobby.com, available from Dragon Models USA Inc. Apollo-Soyuz Test Project (Apollo 18 and Soyuz 19 No. 11012, $44.95. From Dragon,

SPACECR AFT

available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

1/20 SCALE KITS Oshumi first Japanese satellite and Lambda launch vehicle, No.

Sevastopol Russian imperial navy battleship, No. 9040, $94.95. From Zvezda, avail-

able from Dragon Models USA Inc.

1/700 SCALE KITS

SCIENCE-FICTION 1/350 SCALE KITS

002001, $39.95. From Aoshima, available from Dragon Models USA, Inc. Nagato 1927 IJN battleship, No. 045114, $59.95. Water Line series. From Aoshima, available from Dragon Models USA Inc. Thunderbird 2 & 4 International Rescue,

1/48 SCALE KITS

No. 003602, $39.95. From Aoshima, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

MISCELL ANEOUS USS Cole DDG-67, No. 83410, $38.99.

1/35 SCALE KITS

From HobbyBoss, available from Squadron Products.

Unmanned space probe Voyager,

No. 54002, $37.99. From Hasegawa, available from Great Planes Model Distributors.

1/72 SCALE KITS RMS Titanic Centenary Anniversary, No.

14214, $36. Multi color parts. From Academy, available from Model Rectifier Corporation.

WWII Hungarian 20L jerry can and 200L fuel drum set, No. AB3557, $13.95. From

Bronco Models, avaialble from Dragon Models USA Inc. A description of our new-product announcement and review policies is available from Product News Coordinator, FSM, 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187, 262-796-8776, fax 262-796-1383, or e-mail at newproducts@finescale. com. FineScale Modeler is not responsible for content of external sites linked through our site. Visit our website at www.FineScale.com.

www.FineScale.com

NASA Apollo 17 “The Last Mission” CSM + LM + Lunar Rover, No. 11015, $52.95.

featuring reviews, product information, photo galleries, and more!

December 2012 www.FineScale.com

17

New Products Aeroscouts in Vietnam,

Ruined building with base, No. 36049, $55. Diorama Series. German posters included; Norman street, No. 36045, $72.

Diorama Series. French posters included. Both from MiniArt, available from Model Rectifier Corporation.

$24.95 by Wayne Mutza, soft cover, 136 pages, mostly color photos.

ISBN: 978-089747-674-4.

From Squadron/ Signal Publications, available from Squadron Products.

Lancaster Squadrons of World War II in Focus, $40, by Mark Postlethwaite, soft cover,

128 pages, all black-and-white photos. ISBN: 978-1-906592-0509. From Red Kite.

Panther Germany’s Quest for Combat Dominance,

BOOKSHELF

$24.95, by Michael and Gladys Green, hard cover, 288 pages, mostly color photos and renderings.

ISBN: 978-184908-841-1.

From Osprey

American Missiles - The Complete Smithsonian Field Guide 1962 to the present day,

$48, by Brian D. Nicklas, hard cover, 176 pages, mostly color photos, few black-andwhite photos, ISBN: 978-184832-517-3. From Frontline Books, available From Casemate Publishers.

The Heinkel He 219 “Uhu” - A Detailed Guide to the Luftwaffe’s Ultimate Nightfighter, $26, by Richard A. Franks, soft

cover, 98 pages, pages of scale drawings.

ISBN: 9-780956-719843. Airframe Album 1, from Valiant Wings Publishing.

The Waffen SS in Russia 1941-1944,

$21 by William Fowler, soft cover, 52 pages, all blackand-white photos, some color renderings.

ISBN: 962-361172-2. From Concord Publications, available from Squadron Products.

M151 Mutt in Action, $18.95, by David Doyle, soft cover, 80 pages, color photos.

ISBN: 978-0-89747-692-8. From Squadron/ Signal Publications, available from Squadron Products.

18

FineScale Modeler

December 2012

Soviet Hurricane Aces of World War 2,

$22.95, by Yuriy Rybin, soft cover, 96 pages, all blackand-white photos, Osprey Aircraft of the Aces 107, ISBN: 978-184908-741-4.

From Osprey Publishing.

US Amphibius Tanks of World War II,

$17.95, by Steve Zaloga, soft cover, 48 pages, all black-and-white photos. ISBN: 978-1-84908636-3. From Osprey Publishing.

Valiant Units of the Cold War, $22.95,

by Andrew Brookes, soft cover, 96 pages, all blackand-white photos. ISBN: 978-1-84908753-7. From Osprey Publishing.

Publishing.

Blue Moon Over Cuba, $25.95, by Capt.

William B. Ecker USN (ret), and Kenneth V. Jack, hard cover, 287 pages, few black-andwhite photos. ISBN: 978-1-78096-071-5. From Osprey Publishing.

America’s Secret MiG Squadron The Red Eagles of Project Constant PEG,

$25.95, by Col. (ret) Gaillard R. Peck, Jr., hard cover, 320 pages, few color photos.

ISBN: 978-184908-976-0.

From Osprey Publishing

www.FineScale.com FineScale Modeler magazine receives new products from a variety of manufacturers on a daily basis and we are now able to share all of them with you through our interactive exclusive FSM product database. Click on the Product News link at www.FineScale.com.

Boeing 747 1970 onwards,

$28, by Chris Wood, hard cover, 168 pages, all color photos, detailed drawing. ISBN: 13-978-0-76034293-0. From Motorbooks International.

ELECTRONIC MEDIA T-6 Racers 1978-1987,

No. 3009, $12.95. From Aero Research Co.

This year is the 50th anniversary of Tamiya’s military model products and Tamiya is making this monumental milestone with the release of the equally immense Elefant heavy tank destroyer in 1/35 scale. Armed with a powerful 8.8cm L/71 gun, protected by armor up to 200mm thick, and equipped with advanced features such as a hybrid drivetrain, the Elefant is a perennial favorite among modelers of WWII German armored vechicles. It has its roots in the Porshe-designed Ferdinand, which was ¿rst deployed into combat during the Battle of Kursk in 1943.

The lessons learned from that battle resulted in modi¿cations including the addition of a commander’s cupola and better tracks, and the enhanced vehicle received the new designation Elefant in February 1944. Elefants were deployed to Italy and the Eastern Front, where they continued to defend against Allied forces until the ¿nal skirmishes of the war.

Accurately reproduced engine grilles and hull Features detailed bolt-on frontal armor. Driver machine gun position. torso ¿gure adds to the model’s presence.

Slide-molded one-piece ¿ghting compartment contributes to ease of assembly.

Item 12644

Tamiya America, Inc.

|

36 Discovery, Suite 200, Irvine, California 92618

|

(800) 826-4922

|

www.tamiyausa.com

HING

Air Pressure

IS

AIRBRU

ING & SH

FIN

Dial in the right amount of air to get the job done • By AAron Skinner

1

2

Iwata’s Smart Jet compressor includes a combination regulator and moisture trap. A knob at the base of the moisture trap sets the pressure.

A

irbrushing is a function of variables — paint consistency, nozzle aperture, and air pressure. Changes in any one of these alter the final appearance.

Mastering painting means controlling these variables.

Let’s look at just one of these variables.

We’ll examine what happens when paint is sprayed at different pressures, how to control the pressure, and what the pros and cons are for different pressure settings.

What does air do?

Airbrushes mix air and paint. The compressed air pulls paint from the reservoir and pushes it past the nozzle and needle, where it is atomized.

How does pressure alter paint?

More pressure means two things: more

Aaron airbrushes Polly Scale acrylic extra dark sea gray on a 1/48 scale Tamiya Sea Harrier at 25 psi.

paint and finer atomization. See Pressure testing on the following page.

How do I control pressure?

You need a regulator between the air supply and the airbrush. Most mid-range compressors sold for airbrushing include it, 1.

If you use a small compressor or compressed gas, you will need to purchase one.

Set the pressure, then depress the airbrush trigger. Chances are, the pressure will drop several points. To be sure you are airbrushing at the exact pressure you want, adjust it while holding the trigger.

What’s the right pressure?

The short answer is there isn’t one correct pressure. Different pressures are useful for different types of paint and different airbrushes, and can produce different effects.

I usually spray coverage coats at 20-25 psi because it seems to atomize the paint just right to give a smooth, even coat without as much risk of flooding the surface, 2.

For weathering effects like post-shading, and to spray finer lines, I dial the pressure down to 12-15 psi, 3. This gives me more control to build effects gradually.

When spraying gloss paint, I start the mist coats at about 15 psi, then turn the pressure up to 25 or 30 for the final wet coats. More paint on the surface helps it level and prevents premature drying.

Many paint labels include pressure recommendations. See the list of pressure advantages and disadvantages below for more information.

Is there a wrong pressure?

At the low end, you need to use enough

Pressure advantages and disadvantages

20

Low pressure

High pressure

Advantages • Ease of control • Less overspray • Mistakes are easier to correct

Advantages • Tighter, denser coverage • Good atomization • Less chance of tip drying

Disadvantages • Less atomization, bigger specks, fuzzy lines and dots • Greater chance of tip drying and clogs

Disadvantages • Harder to control • More overspray • Greater risk of mistakes

FineScale Modeler

December 2012

Air pressure in action

Aaron demonstrates airbrushing methods and the various effects of different pressure settings for airbrushing at www.FineScale.com/Videos

Pressure testing

T

o test the effects of changing pressure, I thinned Testors Model Master enamel dark green to the consistency of 2 percent milk. I filled the siphon-feed reservoir of a singleaction airbrush and used a fine head and needle.

Spraying four passes on a primed sheet of styrene, starting at 10 psi, then 20, 30, and 40, I held the brush 2-3" above the surface, started and ended each pass off the sheet, and kept the brush moving. I also sprayed four spirals, starting in the middle and circling out, about 1½" away from the surface.

At 10 psi, I sprayed a light line that left much of the gray primer showing through. The individual droplets of paint were clearly visible on the surface, and the line was wide, A. The 20-psi line was considerably denser, although some of the primer remains visible. The droplets are finer and the line thinner, B. The 30 and 40 psi passes showed about the same density

A At 10 psi, the line is wispy, but the droplets are relatively large.

D ... especially compared to a single 40-psi pass.

G At 7 psi, the lowest pressure paint would come out of the airbrush, a single spot looks slightly uneven.

and solid coverage at the center of the line. The major difference was the amount of overspray — the 40 psi pass was sharper than at 30 psi, C and D. The spiral test also showed the major complication of greater pressure: too much paint. At 10 psi, I was able to get a pretty consistent spiral, although once again the lines were speckled, E. At 40 psi, the line was pretty sharp, but I didn’t have any room for error, F. Finally, I sprayed a single dot, starting at the lowest pressure I could get paint to move — 7 psi. Depressing the trigger for less than a second — just long enough to put paint on the surface — 7 psi produced an uneven splatter of paint, G. At 20 psi, the short blast resulted in a nearly perfect circle with a little splattering around it, H, whereas 30 psi inundated the surface, producing a circular puddle with more paint at the edges, I.

B A single 20-psi pass shows less of the surface, but the edges are still quite soft.

E At 10 psi, the low volume of paint means more time to get the pattern right.

H A quick burst of the trigger at 20 psi results in a nearly perfect circular dot.

C At 30 psi, the line is pretty dense but the edges are still a little fuzzy, ...

F The 40-psi spiral is sharply defined, but it’s easy to apply too much paint.

I The 30-psi dot looks more like a puddle, a sure sign of too much paint.

December 2012 www.FineScale.com

21

3

4

For fine camouflage lines on a PzKpfw IV turret, Aaron dialed the pressure down to 15 psi. There’s less paint, so small mistakes are less obvious.

pressure to atomize the paint and help it reach the the model — about 8 psi in my experience.

Too little pressure can also cause paint to dry around the tip of the airbrush, leading to uneven spray patterns or a complete blockage. If you are spraying at low pressure for a desired effect, keep a little thinner and a cotton swab on hand, 4.

At the other extreme, too much pressure may damage the airbrush and fittings, although that’s an extreme scenario. More likely, high pressure will flood the surface with paint and cause runs or blow delicate parts off the model or paint stand.

Aaron removes dried paint from the tip of his airbrush with a cotton swab dipped in thinner. Be careful to avoid damaging the needle.

Do I need different pressures for acrylics vs. enamels?

You can spray acrylics and enamels at the same pressures, but acrylics are more likely to dry at the tip of the brush.

Using more pressure helps keep the nozzle clear.

What about airbrush types?

As a rule, more pressure is necessary for bottom-feed brushes because it has to pull paint into the brush.

That’s not the case on a gravity-fed brush, so I’ve been able to spray at lower pressures.

What pressure do the experts use?

Ask six modelers what pressure they airbrush at and, chances are, you’ll get 12 different answers. FSM Editor Matthew Usher says: “It depends.” His air supply is compressed nitrogen, which gives him a lot of flexibility. For thick paint he’ll use higher pressure, but he generally works at 20 psi.

Former senior editor Paul Boyer sprays enamels at 20-25 psi. Some modelers go as low as 10-15 psi for certain work, and I’ve met modelers who use 50 psi or more.

My advice is to try different pressures until you find the settings that give you consistent results. FSM

Zvezda Models - 1/48 FIGHTERs Fighter Action! Great Variety! Great Value!

1/48 Messerschmitt BF-109 F4

Item # ZVE4806

1/48 LA-5 FN SOVIET WWII FIGHTER

Item # ZVE4801

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FineScale Modeler

December 2012

1/48 MESSEERSCHMITT BF-109 F-2

Item # ZVE4802

Dragon Models USA, Inc. 1315 John Reed Court City of Industry, CA 91745 www.dragonmodelsusa.com

Distributed by:

22

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December 2012 www.FineScale.com

23

1/32 Scale | Detailing

Finishing a Big

Pha

Part 2: More details, paint, and weathering bring this fighter in from the Cold War

By ChuCk Sawyer

L

ast month, in the first part of my mammoth Tamiya 1/32 scale F-4 project, I removed unwanted panels, replaced the intakes, exhausts, and cockpit with resin, and assembled the major components. But this is a big model, and I’m far from done.

This month, I improve the M61 Vulcan gun in the nose and fix the underwing pylons and fuel tanks.

After that comes camouflage paint and weathering to give the aircraft a well-used appearance.

Soda-can aluminum

Vents

Styrene Coffee-filter mesh

1 Tamiya’s kit includes a detailed M61 Vulcan cannon for the nose. On the ground, the gun compartment on F-4Es is usually left open for safety, so Chuck cut the door off the fuselage and carefully carved open the vents with a No. 11 blade (left). He detailed the inside of the door with styrene, soda-can aluminum punched with a needle, and screen from a metal coffee filter (right).

24

FineScale Modeler

December 2012

antom

| COVER STORY |

With time, effort, and meticulous attention to detail, Chuck turned Tamiya’s 1/32 scale F-4E into a showpiece.

Drilled gun barrels

Photoetched metal

2 Chuck bored out the six barrels of the M61 with a drill bit in a pinvise (left). To improve the kit’s crude gun-feed tube, he embellished it with Eduard photoetched-metal brass (right). He painted everything Alclad II gunmetal, then dry-brushed silver to highlight detail.

December 2012 www.FineScale.com

25

Ink-colored edge

Sanded curve

Poor fit

3

4

Chuck knew from experience that gluing the canopies directly to the frames would leave rough, gray areas visible inside. To prevent this, he colored the canopies’ inside edges with a black permanent marker. After protecting both parts with masking tape, he flowed Tamiya Extra Thin Cement along the seams. The glue mixed with the ink to form black-tinted cement, rendering imperfections invisible.

As molded, the vertical stabilizer doesn’t fit well, leaving large gaps around the base. The poor fit is due to the bottom of the fin being molded flat and the fuselage top being curved. To fix the problem and improve the fit, Chuck sanded a curve into the base of the tail halves before assembly, matching the contour of the fuselage and allowing the tail to sit flush.

Styrene shims

Strip-styrene bracket

5

6

The finished Phantom is big and heavy, but Chuck didn’t want to risk marring the paint when transporting the model. So, he chose not to glue the vertical tail on, allowing him to use its substantial locator lug as a handle. He glued styrene inside the tail slot to remove any play in the parts and ensure a secure slide mount.

The base of the vertical stabilizer is L-shaped; Chuck added thin styrene with embossed rivets along each side. This covered any gap that might be visible when the removable tail is slid into position. He thinned the blades of the ram air intake at the base of the tail’s leading edge.

Styrene rod

Brass tube

Remove antenna Beacon Photoetched metal

7

8

Chuck removed the raised frame around the red beacon and replaced the kit’s molded stabilator feel-system pressure head with hollow brass tubing.

He cut off the upper pitot tube because the F-4E has one in front of the radome instead. Before attaching the beacon, he drilled two holes from behind and filled each with silver paint to replicate light bulbs.

26

FineScale Modeler

December 2012

To detail the four Sparrow missile wells under the airplane, Chuck added braces, hardware, and electrical connections with Eduard photoetched metal, styrene rod, and brass. He removed the small antenna aft of the nose gear bay — F-4Es didn’t have it.

â „ " copper line

38

IFF antenna Shaped steel rod

Styrene shim Eduard photoetched metal

Soda-can aluminum SST-181X beacon

9

10

During the Vietnam War, F-4Es were fitted with an SST-181X beacon behind the cockpit, just forward and starboard of the large circular IFF antenna. Chuck ground steel rod with a motor tool to get the shape, then mounted it on a base made from soda-can aluminum.

The drag chute bay is usually open on parked Phantoms, and Eduard provides trim for the outside and door, but there is no compartment. Using needlenose pliers, Chuck squared a piece of 3â „8" copper supply line for the bay and shimmed it with styrene to fit the tail. He detailed the bay with styrene and Eduard photoetched metal, painted the interior a rusty red, and the exterior steel.

11

12

Slat-wing F-4Es had a strap retrofitted underneath to reinforce the wing and landing-gear sections of the airframe. Chuck used a self-adhesive vinyl strap from Nautilus Models, trimming the ends to match photos and adding rivets.

After masking the gear bays and exhaust sections, Chuck smoothed the model with 2000-grit sandpaper to eliminate imperfections. Then he airbrushed camouflage gray, the underside color, as a primer. He added a little flat white to all of the colors for scale effect. Chuck pre-shaded panel lines with thin black paint.

Walkway Pre-shading Poster putty

13

14

Referring to photos of the aircraft from several angles, Chuck painted the upper-surface camouflage using poster putty to get slightly soft demarcation lines between the colors. He started with the lightest color, dark tan, then applied medium green, and, finally, dark green. Although there is a basic pattern, the full-size aircraft were painted freehand. So, Chuck says, each fighter is a little different.

Ramstein-based F-4Es had red stripes at the back edge of the slats and white stripes under the inboard slats, Chuck says. He masked and painted those. The slat actuators on the outboard wing, forward of the leading edge, should be camouflage gray. After roughing up the paint over the walkways with 400-grit sandpaper, he airbrushed the model with Pledge Future floor polish in preparation for decals and washes.

December 2012 www.FineScale.com

27

Photoetched metal

Steel wire

Holes for wire pins

15

16

During the TAM80 exercises, this aircraft carried SUU-21 bomb dispensers.

Chuck trimmed the aft ends of Plastic World Modeling Products F-104 dispensers, then corrected a few panel and rivet lines. He drilled holes and inserted steel wire to secure the heavy resin dispensers to the kit pylons.

Chuck scribed panel lines and rivets on the inner pylons. He also drilled out the sway braces and added the bolt and circular feet used within each sway brace. Eduard brass was used to trim the bottom, and holes were drilled for the pins in the bomb dispensers.

Chaff dispenser

Brass handle

Flare dispenser

Filler cap

17

18

Chuck added countermeasure equipment to the inner pylons — flare dispensers pointing slightly down and outboard, and chaff dispensers shooting straight back and inboard. The kit parts were crude, with no detail other than a square empty hole, so Chuck used spare dispensers from an F-16, cutting them to fit.

To improve the wing tanks, Chuck bored out depressions for the filler caps with a burr in a motor tool and attached a small brass handle. He added circular pads to the sway braces, rivet detail to the sides, and removed raised detail that hid the cartridge-jettison breeches within a circle on the left side of each tank.

New holes

19

Molded locators

20

After all this work, Chuck realized that Tamiya has the wing-tank pylons mounted too far outboard.

So, he drilled new locators 6mm in and 7mm forward; he filled and painted the old holes.

28

FineScale Modeler

December 2012

Chuck marked the Phantom using AirDoc decals for the scheme, kit decals for the formation lights, and HobbyDecal dry transfers for the panel numbers. The AirDoc decals performed well and responded to Microscale decal solutions, but Chuck said he had trouble getting the dry transfers to adhere to the glossy surface.

21 To deepen and define panel lines and rivets, Chuck prefers Pro Modeller acrylic black wash because it doesn’t affect the paint. After rubbing off the wash, Chuck applied a light coat of Alclad II dull aluminum to the leading edges of the vertical stabilizer, wings, and intakes to replicate wear.

22

Salt

Using salt crystals to randomly mask the surface, Chuck sprayed light coats of very thin paint slightly darker than the original three colors. After washing off the salt with water, he sprayed a coat of Testors Dullcote lacquer for a well-weathered F-4E.

Different nose cones

23 Chuck painted and weathered the pylons, bomb dispensers, and wing tanks the same way he did the airframe. (Note: The dispensers on each side of the pylon are white; the flares are red; and the chaff is metallic.) Damaged fuel tank noses were often replaced, so the paint may not match, a detail Chuck replicated on one of the wing tanks (center). He mounted a resin Isradecal AVQ-23 Pave Spike pod (right) in the forward port-side Sparrow missile well.

AFTERMARKET ITEMS

Photoetched metal, Eduard, www.eduard.com • F-4E exterior, No. 32073 • F-4E Martin-Baker Mk.7 ejection seat, No. 32079 • F-4E interior, No. 32503 • F-4 placards, No. 32509 • F-4 Martin-Baker Mk.7 ejec-

tion seat/green, No. 32511 • F-4 formation light, No. 32531 Decals – USAFE Phantoms in Germany Part 1, AirDoc, No. 32003, www.shopofphantoms.com Ejection seats, Quickboost, No.32069, www.quickboost.net

Panel-number dry transfers, HobbyDecal, No. st32041v1, www.hobbydecal.com Metal pitot tube set, HobbyDecal, No. mt32002v1, www.hobbydecal.com F-4 wing reinforcement strap, Nautilus Models, No. 32-701, www.nautilusmodels.com

F-104 bomb dispensers (converted to SUU-21), Plastic World Modeling, No. 3211, plasticworld@skynet.be AVQ-23 Pave Spike pod, Isradecal, No. IC-32029, www.isradecal.com

December 2012 www.FineScale.com

29

Gloss black

Sewing pins

Flat black

Pitot

24

25

Fearing it would be knocked off during assembly, Chuck left the nose pitot until the end, attaching it with super glue, then sanding everything smooth.

Flat black paint was applied to replicate the rubberized coating on the front of the radome. The rest of the radome was painted with gloss black lacquer.

After adding final electrical and plumbing to the cockpit, Chuck installed steel sewing pins for the canopy pistons behind each seat. The steel is strong and doesn’t have to be painted.

Vinyl tape

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Chuck applied thin strips of vinyl tape along canopy edges to represent the seal between the glass and the frame on the inside.

The boarding ladders used in 1980 were usually painted dark green, but often showed the earlier yellow color through wear. Chuck painted spots of yellow and aluminum, then masked with salt before spraying green.

After 14 months and approximately 600 hours, Chuck’s big F-4E Phantom II was finished. Although he enjoyed the build, he admitted he was relieved when it was done. “It took so much of my free time, and I was constantly thinking about how to improve the kit,” he says. FSM

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Reader Gallery

▲ ROBERT HOLMSTROM SCAPPOOSE, OREGON

Trumpeter’s 1/35 scale Stryker “went together like a dream,” Robert says. “And all the stowage was included, with a fair amount of photoetched metal for detail.” He painted with Tamiya acrylics and weathered with Mig pigments and Abteilung 502 oils.

▲ ANTONIO HORCAJO EL ESCORIAL, MADRID, SPAIN

A commercial pilot, Antonio says, “I chose Revell´s 1/144 scale Boeing 747-400 with British Airways livery and turned it into a Qantas bird. After extensive research, I scratchbuilt leading-edge slats and fully deployed flaps in landing configuration with aluminum from soda cans. I also rebuilt the landing gear to show the correct angles. I finally added antennas and built pitot tubes with guitar strings. I made my own decals, but painted the tail kangaroo by masking with precut water-soaked paper to avoid peeling the paint. My 747 suffered a huge accident two days before completion in the hands of she-whom-I-must-obey. I managed to put it back together and took the picture with the help of my 12-year-old daughter, who held the nylon strings.”

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▲ JOHN C. BACKENSTROSS FAYETTEVILLE, NEW YORK

Tamiya’s 1/48 scale F-15C Eagle soars with added detail: Aires ACES II ejection seat and exhaust-nozzle set; scratchbuilt detail in the avionic and landing gear bays; more scratchbuilding for the launch rails and a boarding ladder; and rivet detail impressed with a pounce wheel. John says the jet is one of his favorites. “It is such a good-looking and powerful bird!” ▶ JASON VUKOVICH BELLINGHAM, WASHINGTON

Jason painted Mig Productions’ 1/35 scale resin Toyota HiLux pickup with Testors enamels, armed it with a Trumpeter M249 SAW, and threw in some Tamiya MREs. He says, “These trucks were everywhere in Central Asia, and we had a few kicking around for general utility work on base when I was deployed. We no longer used them when the increased threat required the use of up-armored vehicles.”

www.FineScale.com Go to www.FineScale.com/Gallery to visit our online reader gallery.

December 2012

www.FineScale.com

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Reader Gallery

◀ DAN DUNA NEWPORT NEWS, VIRGINIA

Dan built Alpine Miniatures’ 1/16 scale BAR gunner, finished it with Vallejo and Citadel paints, and planted it on Silflor grass and groundwork.

SEND US YOUR PICTURES! Shouldn’t your model be in Reader Gallery? FSM is always accepting new material from around the world.

Upload high-resolution digital images (preferably unedited, RAW format) with complete captions at www.Contribute.Kalmbach.com, or send prints or CD-ROMs to FineScale Modeler, Reader Gallery, 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612.

Be sure to tell us the kit manufacturer, model, scale, modifications, paint and finishes used, and reason for choosing the model, along with your name and address. We look forward to seeing your work! ▶ MIKE FLECKENSTEIN FREDERICKSBURG, VIRGINIA

Mike scratchbuilt a Panhard balloon lorry in 1/72 scale. He says, “When World War I was declared in summer 1914, 50 of the vehicles were in service. They were immediately pressed into service for a variety of uses, one of which was the balloon service lorry depicted in the model.” Mike’s inspiration came from a 1916 set of English cigarette cards, collectibles packaged similarly to American baseball cards of the time.

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▲ ED KIMPEL CLIFTON, IDAHO

“After reading Stephen Coonts’ book Flight of the Intruder and seeing the film, I have been dying to build an A-6,” Ed says. He painted Revell’s 1/48 scale A-6E with Testors Model Master paints plus regular and sludge washes on the exterior; in the cockpit, he detailed with craft paints. “My favorite part of this build was initially a mistake, “ he says.

“A homemade wash with some older paint didn’t mix as well as I’d hoped, leaving tiny chunks. But removing them with a soft, wide brush left some interesting streaking that really added to the weathered finish.”

▲ SARIO BASSANELLI BOLOGNA, ITALY

A professional modeler who works for Italeri, Sario built a test molding of Italeri’s 1/35 scale Vosper 72.5' MTB (motor torpedo boat) and finished it with Tamiya and Citadel paints.

December 2012 www.FineScale.com

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SEE

W H A T Y O U’ R E D O I N G

Photoetched metal is fine for 1/350 scale netting — but the finer the detail the harder it is to see, especially for modelers over 40. Vision aids can help modelers refocus their efforts. Aaron Skinner photo.

Vision aids focus on models • By Mark HeMBree

H

ow many times have you leaned toward your workbench and found yourself thinking or even saying, “This sure would be easier if I could just see …”?

If you were born in 1972 or earlier, you may have a good reason to squint. It’s called presbyopia — the inability to focus on close work as well as you used to. As the lens of your eye hardens with age (starting at about

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40), it becomes less flexible and less able to subtly change shape and focus on nearby objects. You hold fine print farther away to read it … or perhaps set a menu on fire by holding it too close to the candle to order dinner.

The good news is it’s normal and relatively easy to work around, even without a doctor’s examination or prescription. From inexpensive over-the-counter glasses to

ingenious visors and desktop magnifiers, modelers have many means to improve their near vision. And there’s one more bit of (sorta) good news: By the time you’re 65, your presbyopia is probably as bad as it’s ever going to be.

So, put down that Rogaine and let’s take a look at what’s available to help you see that photoetched-metal throttle quadrant.

Now, if I can just find my glasses …

BINOCULAR MAGNIFIERS

Magna-Visor Bausch & Lomb www.bausch.com Available from www.magnifiercity.com $35.90; replacement lenses $9.90 each

Lightweight and comfortable as a ballcap, the Magna-Visor flips up and down easily and has a wide field of view. It comes with three interchangeable lenses which snap in and out and provide focal lengths of 6" (2.6x magnification), 8" (2.2), and 12" (1.8). If you already wear glasses, you can wear this magnifying visor over them; if you’re wearing magnifying/reading glasses, this visor can augment the enlargement. The padded headband is adjustable and removable for cleaning. Tension on pivot points is adjustable. The only drawback I found was the tight snap-fit of the lenses — so tight I feared I would break something — though that might improve with use.

OptiVisor and accessories Donegal Optical Co. 15549 W 108th St., Lenexa, Kan. 66219-1303 Available from Walthers, www.walthers.com $37.15; replacement lenses $13.50 each; VisorLight with battery pack, $28.19; Quasar LED lighting, $22.50

Among scale modelers, the OptiVisor is the best known of hands-free, visor-style magnifiers. Like the Magna-Visor, the OptiVisor has a padded, washable headband and adjustable pivot points. Interchangeable lenses are screw-mounted and available in wide array. Add-ons include a couple of different lighting systems with free-standing battery packs (two AA): the VisorLight, a single 6,000-candlepower xenon bulb; and the Quasar, with six LEDs that mount around the lenses. Last month, when we asked longtime FSM authors what they would want on a desert island, several of them said an OptiVisor — according to one, for modeling and for starting fires.

VisorLight

OptiVisor

Quasar

December 2012 www.FineScale.com

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DESKTOP MAGNIFIERS

Triple-grip third hand with magnifier Available from Micro-Mark, www.micromark. com, 800-225-1066 (908-464-2984 international); jig $8.50; 2x magnifier, $5.95

It’s handy to have a third hand — or fourth, or fifth — and having another hand holding a magnifier is nice, too. This example was purchased at Harbor Freight Tools, but easily available from Micro-Mark. The jig is helpful in many ways, but setting the right distance for the magnifier can be a little troublesome. Being weighted and freestanding, rather than clamped to the bench, is an advantage. It’s a useful aid and a mild vision enhancer for modelers who don’t feel the need to wear binoculars.

“Spin and Store” desk lamp Available from Ott-Lite, www.ottlite.com, 800-842-8848 (813-621-0058) for $53.99; replacement bulb $23.99.

One of several “magnification lamps” made by Ott-Lite, the Spin and Store has a wide, clear strip with 2x and 3x magnifiers in it, well-lighted by a 13W bulb rated to last as long as 10,000 hours. Additionally, the base is a rotating parts caddy. The bulb provides a nicely balanced light that aids vision without heat or skewing color (great for painting), but replacement is a bit costly. Our friends at Bead & Button magazine, just a few steps down the hall here at Kalmbach Publishing, showed us this model (which explains why there is beadery instead of gunnery in the parts caddy). They said positioning the magnifier takes a little getting used to, but that the proximity of the light is a real plus. Ott-Lite makes other styles of “mag lamps,” including a floor-standing model.

Spring-balanced magnifier lamp Available from Micro-Mark (see previous address) for $27.75; 60W bulb not included.

This gadget has its ups and downs: The 4"-diameter, 1.75x lens provides ample size and magnification and is easily and variably adjustable.

However, the anchor clamp must be attached to the edge of a workbench. The back edge would be best, but many modelers like to have the back edge up against a wall or otherwise closed to runaway parts.

However, if you clamp the lamp to the front edge of your workbench it’s constantly in the way; clamping it to the side limits its maneuverability.

Another, lesser, drawback is that with regular use the whole getup can get droopy. (It happens to the best of us!) A 60W incandescent bulb generates bright light, but considerable heat as well. If you can find the right-shaped energy-saving bulb, it will run much cooler; try an LED lightbulb, which should fit easily.

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EYEGLASSES

Nonprescription reading glasses & clip-on/flip-up magnifiers Widely available, these glasses are an inexpensive and immediate answer to questionable near vision. Even though I can read most type without glasses, I found that word recognition and seeing tiny details are two different things. I bought some 1.5x glasses to try them on for modeling and was amazed by how much I had been missing. Having started cautiously, I moved up to 2x and wear them for most fine operations. Try them for inspecting seams and finishes. You might be amazed, too!

Clip-on magnifiers can be worn for occasional use. My mom used to wear these for certain sewing projects; they are 4x, a dizzying blur except at very close range.

Also, they are heavy enough to be an annoyance — and if your glasses don’t fit tightly, the clip-ons can pull them right off your nose! But in some instances, the massive magnification is a boon. One editor at Model Railroader magazine wears 7x lenses on his OptiVisor for installing coupler springs in N scale (1/160 scale).

DEALING WITH PRESBYOPIA We’re not qualified to make medical recommendations regarding vision care and correction — so we thought we’d ask someone who is. Dr. Greg Thomas, of Drs. Thomas, House & Associates, Optometrists, PLLC, in Charlotte, N.C., took time to give us a good look at presbyopia, an age-related eye condition that can render fine work invisible.

First, the bad news: It’s unavoidable.

“As we go through an aging process, the lens in the eye begins to change,” he says. “It’s driven from two sources, or a combination of them. The cells that make up the lens in the eye begin to harden, so that lens is not as flexible.

Also, you have fibers connecting the lens and the muscle structures in your eyes that control what we call accommodation. When you look at something up close, we need your eye to accommodate, or focus, at that particular range.

Physiologically, anatomically, that structure can’t make that reaction anymore.

You move out, say, to 20-24", you still may have enough flexibility in that system to allow you to focus at that range.

“Typically, these changes start happening in our early 40s. It’s a normal process. There’s no way around it.”

Thomas noted that people who do close work (like modeling) may complain about it sooner than people who work outside — but that’s a function of what they do, not an indication that their activities affect vision.

Presbyopia levels off as people go through their 60s. However, Thomas

says, “At that point, physiologically, the lens will continue to thicken, and that person may start complaining about distance vision. So, as the patient goes through presbyopia, that does not mean their distance vision won’t change, too.”

Thomas cautioned that inexpensive, non-prescription reading glasses are usually not ideal.

“For most of us, our left and right prescription is not the same,” he says. “You may have a person who needs +1 in one eye and +1.75 in the other. So, they’re either over-correcting one eye or undercorrecting the other, and they’re creating an imbalance between the two eyes.” The results can be eyestrain and faulty depth perception from the eyes not working in concert, he says.

Fit and quality are also considerations for lenses. Opticians take measurements to ensure each lens’ optical center matches each eye. Also, Thomas says, “The optics that you’re going to get in some of these over-the-counter lenses, you’re going to sacrifice some quality.” Another feature missing from drugstore specs is anti-reflective (AR) coating, which Thomas recommends along with adding light to the workbench to reduce eyestrain.

“Good lighting is key,” he says.

“Having good light, having the AR coating to relieve some of the optical effect you get with glare, and taking short breaks are the important things to minimize fatigue and eyestrain.” He cites a 20/20/20 rule: “Every 20 minutes,

take a break, look across the room at something that’s 20 feet or beyond to change your focal length and relax the muscles in your eyes a little bit, and do that for at least 20 seconds.”

Thomas says visor-type magnifiers are a good bet. “We know that with regular glasses, we’ve got the prescription balanced, we’ve got the two eyes working together, so that visor is taking that balance at that particular close working range and it’s magnifying it.

And, of course, they’re flip devices, so you can flip it down and see some small detail, then flip it back up.”

So, the doctor’s advice is to keep up with your eye appointments and have your vision corrected before donning a magnifying device. And if it turns out that you need glasses, let the doctor know the distance at which you usually work. “That’s any hobby,” he says.

“Someone who does crochet versus someone who does needlepoint, they usually have different working ranges, so it’s a little different. Some will find having a second pair of glasses for that hobby beneficial.”

Is there nothing that can deliver us from the scourge of presbyopia? No, Thomas says. “You have what you have.

Unfortunately, there are no exercises you can do, there’s no vitamin you can take, that’s going to slow down those aging changes.

“I like to tell people, look, you’re normal, alright? It’s very normal to have these kinds of changes.” FSM

December 2012 www.FineScale.com

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All Scales | Display

maKe yoUr oWn

display case

Display cases are an attractive way to show off your models and keep them clean. However, buying custom-made cases can be an expensive proposition. So, why not do it yourself?

If you can build a model, you can build a display case — here’s how

By Thomas m. Barnes

I

recently unpacked a number of 1/24 and 1/25 scale model cars I’d built years ago and decided to make display cases for them with wooden bases and acrylic covers that would lock into place.

Previous attempts gluing acrylic with liquid cement, super glue, and hot glue left me with less-than-stellar results. After a conversation with an employee at my local hobby store, I discovered Plastruct Plastic Weld. It uses capillary action to get into the joint and doesn’t fog clear acrylic.

Armed with my new glue, here’s how I made my display cases.

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Thomas’ supplies included: ½" pine plywood, ⁄ " Luan plywood, .08" clear acrylic sheet, a length of 23⁄32" x 15⁄32" shoe molding, wood glue, and Plastic Weld.

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3 Thomas then crosscut the plywood strips to their final 10¼" lengths. The Luan plywood received similar treatment, being narrowed and cut into 5" x 10" rectangles.

After ripping (cutting with the grain) the ½" pine plywood into 5½" strips, Thomas narrowed them to their final 5¼" width on a joiner.

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The finished sides of both the pine and Luan plywood were sanded with 120-grit sandpaper.

Be careful not to sand the Luan too vigorously, because the veneer is thin.

6 Thomas placed the Luan veneer atop a pine baseboard, using a combination square to ensure that the finish piece’s edges were set back 1⁄8" from the baseboard’s edges.

Thomas applied wood glue to the bottom of the Luan piece, spreading it evenly with a stiffbristled paintbrush.

7 Once the veneer is clamped, check the 1⁄8" offset and adjust if necessary.

The offset will supply the gap for the acrylic display cover.

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Here is the assembled Luan and pine base. The 1⁄8" gap is wider than the .08"-thick acrylic to allow a little tolerance for the cover.

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Next, Thomas cut an end of the shoe molding to a 45-degree angle and finished the edge on his disc sander.

Holding the mitered end of the shoe molding to one corner of the pine baseboard …

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… Thomas marked where the baseboard ended against the molding, then cut and sanded a 45-degree miter at the mark.

Repeating the same method, Thomas cut a length of molding for each side of the base.

After spreading wood glue on the base’s edges, Thomas positioned the shoe molding segments and clamped them in place.

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And after the glued dried, Thomas had a wooden display base.

Because Thomas was making many bases at once, he bought a large piece of acrylic and cut the pieces on his radial-arm saw. You can also use a carpenter’s square and a scoring tool.

Side

End

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The display case requires two 4¾" x 10¼" sides, two 4¾" x 5" ends, and a 10¼" x 5¼" top. The protective covering keeps the acrylic from getting scratched.

Thomas deliberately cuts his pieces oversize and reduces them to the final dimensions on a joiner.

While narrowing the acrylic sheet to size, Thomas test-fits the pieces in the base. The fit is purposely loose to allow easy removal. The best looking edges are placed at the top and marked with tape.

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Case end

End Side

Scrap acrylic

Case side

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Thomas decided to place the end pieces inside the longer side pieces.

Thomas made a jig out of scrap wood to hold the acrylic sheet for cementing.

The top edges are aligned with a square.

Thomas uses a scrap of acrylic to keep the two pieces of the case away from the jig.

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Plastic Weld flows into the joint via capillary action and sets in about 30 seconds. Keeping the join away from the wooden jig with the scrap acrylic prevents excess glue from spreading on the outer surface.

Thomas glued on the second end piece, then the final side. Patience is essential for this delicate process, and a number of clamps helps.

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The case’s top is cut and trimmed to the sides and ends, then cemented in place.

Thomas used three coats of spray varnish to finish the base, letting each coat dry for 24 hours before applying the next. He rubbed the final coat with 0000 steel wool.

Lastly, Thomas attached rubber pads under each corner of the base. FSM

December 2012 www.FineScale.com

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1/35 Scale | Construction

Once Bill decided to build a model of a PzKpfw IV Ausf C in France, 1940, he turned to Dragon’s “Super Kit.” But even with all the included details, he found there was plenty of room for improvement.

Building a better

Panzer IV

Even extremely detailed kits can use a little extra • By Bill Plunk

i

n the role of close-support vehicle, the Panzer IV was equipped with a shortbarreled 7.5cm KwK 37 L/24 gun and relatively thin armor. Between 1938 and 1939, Germany built about 140 PzKpfw IV Ausf Cs, which saw combat in Poland and France.

Always interested in early-war armor, I decided to portray a tank serving in France with the 11th Panzer Regiment, 6th Panzer Division, 1940, using Dragon’s 1/35 scale

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“Super Kit” (No. 6291) and Modelkasten workable tracks.

Wheels, suspension, and hull

I started with the running gear, 1. The road wheels included separate rubber rims. I left them off to make later painting easier.

Adding the suspension to the lower hull, I made sure to keep the separate elements workable, which would ensure that the road wheels would sit level. I also installed the

drive housings, fuel ports, and the rear hull plate, 2.

The kit supplied two choices for fenders: with or without locator holes for tools.

Because I decided to use photoetchedmetal tool clamps, I attached the fenders without the holes. At the same time, I assembled the glacis plate and glued it in position, 3.

Turning to the upper hull, I constructed the air intakes from the kit’s photoetched-

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With more than 1,000 parts in Dragon’s “Super Kit,” Bill started his Ausf C with the running gear.

Bill made sure to keep the suspension elements workable. He rounded out details with drive housings and fuel ports.

Glacis plate

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4

Anticipating photoetched-metal tool clamps, Bill chose fenders free of locator holes. He installed the glacis plate at the same time.

Photoetched metal re-created the Ausf C’s distinctive air intakes. Bill used gel super glue to assemble the intakes and attach them to the hull.

Mudguards

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Some liquid styrene cement and precise finger pressure were all Bill needed to attach the upper hull’s sides.

metal parts and installed them with gel super glue, 4.

Then, using liquid cement and carefully applied finger pressure, I added the upper hull’s sides, getting a perfect join with the molded-on weld seams, 5.

I joined the upper and lower hulls together, again using just finger pressure to get a solid bond. I filled a small gap at the rear with styrene rod and liquid cement and sanded the area smooth.

After installing the hatches up top, Bill added the front and rear mudguards — but not perfectly straight, to mimic damage and wear.

Mudguards take a beating in the field.

With this in mind, I purposely attached the kit’s mudguards slightly askew, 6.

In back, after adding the main-engine and traverse-motor exhausts, along with the smoke-grenade rack, I drilled the main engine’s exhaust pipe to deepen the opening and thin its walls. In front, I made headlight wiring conduits using a No. 76 drill bit and .5mm solder wire and attached them with gel super glue, 7.

Referring to the model’s tool-layout diagram, I attached photoetched-metal tool clamps to the fenders with Gator Grip glue — the glue is slow-drying and allowed me extra time to get the tool placement just right.

I started at the front of each fender and worked toward the rear. The port fender was easier to complete because the starboard had a complicated layout with spare track links and the antenna-support tray, 8.

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Antenna-support tray

Smokegrenade rack

Traverse-motor exhaust

Main-engine exhaust

Headlightwire conduits

Towing clevis

7 Always looking to improve the model’s detail, Bill drilled out the main exhaust for a more realistic appearance and added solder wire conduits.

Jack

Spare track links

8

Bill used photoetched-metal clamps from Dragon’s kit and a Griffon Model set to mount the tools on the tank’s fenders.

Track pins

Sliding lock covers

Tow-cable supports

9 Gel super glue did the trick, holding in place the pre-bent metal tow-cable supports and photoetched-metal sliding lock covers.

Flare pistol and holster

Cartridge box

Grab rail

Pistol-port handles

Seat back

Gas-mask container holder Seat back

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Planning to leave the turret’s hatches open, Bill set about detailing the interior with parts from his spares box.

In the upper turret, Bill added other details from his spares, like a flare pistol and holster, back for the commander’s seat, and pistol-port handles.

I drilled the track-pin holes on the spare links and added styrene rod for the missing track pins. I also glued photoetched-metal sliding lock covers and metal tow-cable supports to the tank’s rear, 9.

Gun, turret, and hull interior The excellent detail inside the turret is well worth showing off. I filled the ejector marks with Squadron white putty and assembled the turret’s lower interior. The flare-pistol 46

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December 2012

cartridge box, gas-mask container and photoetched-metal holder, and gunner’s seat back came from my spares. I also made the grab rail from styrene rod and a bit of leftover photoetched metal, 10.

The turret’s upper half also received extra detail inside, including a flare pistol and holster, seat back for the commander, and handles for the rear pistol ports, 11.

I built the turret front and main gun, taking care to leave the gun movable to

help with painting. Inside the hull, I added parts scratchbuilt from styrene sheet to roughly represent ammunition bins and lockers.

Before proceeding, I airbrushed the turret and hull’s interior with Testors Model Master interior panzer buff. I stippled burnt umber over everything to create scuffs and wear, and then completed weathering the interior with a wash of raw umber. Details were hand-painted, 12.

Gas-mask container

12 Before closing up the turret, Bill painted and weathered the interior. He hand-brushed individual items to make sure they received sufficient detail.

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Bill added the hatches, commander’s cupola, and other details to the turret’s exterior before joining it to the finished interior and gun.

Bill assembled the Modelkasten tracks in easy-to-handle batches. Taking advantage of the model’s moving idlers, he test-fit the tracks and found that 100 links produced the best look.

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Blue painter’s tape masked the interior from overspray as Bill primed the model with Italian dark brown.

Model Master panzer schwarzgrau served as the base coat for the twotone camouflage Bill wanted to re-create.

Calling the interior finished, I glued on the turret hatches, the commander’s cupola, and other details. Once that was done, I glued the turret together, 13.

Tracks I assembled the Modelkasten track set 10 links at a time. After joining two runs of 98 links, I test-fitted the tracks on the tank, and 100 links for each side produced the appropriate sag, 14.

Paint and markings I used blue painter’s tape to mask the turret and hull’s interiors. A primer coat of Model Master Italian dark brown allowed me to check all the joins to make sure there were no gaps, 15. Then I airbrushed on Model Master panzer schwarzgrau as the foundation for the two-tone scheme used during the Battle of France, 16.

To create shadows and give the base coat some variation, I airbrushed highlights

with a 4:1 mix of panzer schwarzgrau and light gray, 17.

The camouflage is roughly ⅓ dark brown and ⅔ panzer dark gray. I freehanded the pattern using an airbrush and Model Master schokoladenbraun, 18.

The road wheels and return rollers received the same primer and base coat as the rest of the tank, with the rubber portions painted Model Master gunmetal. I used a circle template as a mask on the December 2012 www.FineScale.com

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Bill airbrushed highlights with a mix of Model Master panzer schwarzgrau and light gray.

About ⁄ of the camouflage pattern was dark brown, which Bill applied with an airbrush and a steady hand.

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Bill used the road wheels’ rubber rims as masks, but cautions that getting paint inside the rims will cause fit issues.

Cleaning rods

20 While finishing the tools, Bill decided to drill the female ends of the cleaning rods with a pinvise for greater accuracy.

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Bill finished the taillight with Tamiya clear red; Metalizer non-buffing gunmetal and successive washes of Model Master rust completed the exhausts.

Bill painted the tracks separately from the tank to allow easier access to the lower hull and wheels during weathering.

return rollers; the separate rubber rims served as masks for the road-wheel hubs, 19.

I finished the metal portions of the fender tools with Model Master Metalizer non-buffing gunmetal dry-brushed with steel. Wood handles received a base coat of 1:1 light gray and panzer dunkelgelb, followed by a thin wash of Model Master leather. They were then lightly dusted with burnt umber pastels. I used Italian dark brown on the leather pads of the com48

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December 2012

mander’s hatches and the side-vision ports.

I painted the cupola’s glass blocks Tamiya clear green thinned with a little Windex, 20.

In back, Tamiya clear red tinted the brake light and reflector, and Metalizer non-buffing gunmetal base-coated the exhausts. I followed with repeated washes of Model Master rust until I was satisfied with the result. Unhappy with the kit’s braided-wire tow cable, I replaced it with crochet rope thread dipped in Pledge

Future floor polish and hung to dry. I painted the cable non-buffing gunmetal and dry-brushed it with steel, 21.

I base-coated the tracks with Model Master burnt umber and let them dry for 24 hours. A dry-brushing of steel provided a metallic sheen that I toned down with a raw umber wash, 22.

I airbrushed the entire model with Future, let it dry overnight, and applied the markings from the kit. With a little Solvaset, the decals settled down beauti-

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A dot filter helps to mute stark, unrealistic contrasts and provides subtle variation to the underlying paint.

A raw umber pinwash helps bring out details; a coat of Model Master lusterless flat seals the deal.

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Bill made a mud mixture with Mig Productions pigment combined with water and a dab of liquid dish soap to break the surface tension.

With the dark mud pigment dry, Bill worked away the excess with a stiff brush and cotton swabs.

fully. After a second coat of Future, the Panzer IV was ready for weathering.

Throwing mud Weathering began with a wash of Model Master raw sienna followed by a dot filter of Italian dark brown, my 4:1 Panzer gray mix, and the 1:1 light gray and Panzer dunkelgelb mixture used on the tools. I worked in small areas and blended the dots together with a square-end brush dampened with thinner. Always pull in the same direction until the dots disappear, giving subtle variations to the underlying paint, 23.

A pinwash of Model Master burnt umber created depth and made details pop.

Once that was dry, I sprayed on a coat of Model Master lusterless flat to correct the sheen and tie everything together, 24.

I combined Mig Productions dark mud with a little water and a drop of dish soap.

To get that in-the-field look, I daubed the mixture (using an old brush) under the fenders and on the lower hull, along with the wheels, idlers, and sprockets, 25.

After the pigment dried, I used a stiffbristled brush and cotton swabs to remove excess mud. I wore a sanding mask to keep from breathing the dust and worked until I

27 After running the tracks onto the tank, Bill applied a dusting of dried mud pigment to the road wheels, fenders, and lower hull to tone down the reddish effect and bring all the weathering together.

was pleased with the appearance, 26.

The tracks were given similar treatment with Mig dried mud pigment. After putting them on the tank, I applied a powder treatment of dried mud pigment to the lower hull, fenders, and road wheels to

blend the tracks with the hull, 27.

With more than 1,000 parts, the Dragon PzKpfw IV Ausf C model deserves its “Super Kit� designation. However, even the most detailed kits can be better with scratchbuilt help. FSM December 2012 www.FineScale.com

49

Questions & Answers A clinic for your modeling problems

By Aaron Skinner

The lowdown on wooden decks Q Do you have any information or pictures

regarding installing real wood decks on ship models? I purchased an ArtWox deck for the USS Arizona, but there weren’t any instructions for handling the deck. I went to the Internet for help, but mostly what I saw was problems people have with warping and keeping the deck glued down. It’s possible FSM has done articles on this subject and I missed it; if not, this would make a great article, because a lot of new decks are available.

– Bruce Jensen Gaylord, Mich.

A Wooden decks are a great way to improve the look of ship models, but I’ve never used one (although I have a couple in the stash). So I looked around for answers.

From what I can tell, the adhesive on the ArtWox deck should be strong enough to keep it down. I’d be careful about displaying the model in a place with drastic temperature or humidity shifts, though, because that may weaken the adhesive or cause the deck to buckle.

If the parts fit well, which seems to be the case with ArtWox, you should be able get them on the model with little problem or warping. Some modelers run the tip of a hobby knife along the cuts before removing the parts from the backing sheet to be sure they come away cleanly. Some decks (I’m not sure about ArtWox) should be sealed

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FineScale Modeler

December 2012

with an acrylic clear. I don’t have any good advice on the type of sealant, so test it first on a scrap of the wood.

Modern ship rigging ideas Q I was wondering if FSM has done any

articles on how to rig modern ships. I’ve almost finished Airfix’s 1/600 scale Bismarck, and I would like to do the rigging. But I’m not sure where to start or how.

– Simon Wallace-Tarry Eureka, New South Wales, Australia A We have done a couple of stories about rigging modern warships. In the March 2004 issue, Patrick Roach showed how he rigs ships with wire. In May/June 1985, Dennis Moore used stretched sprue. You can order a copy of the 2004 issue from Kalmbach Customer Sales and Service.

The 1985 issue is no longer available, but you can find a copy of it and the rest of the 213 issues from FSM’s first 25 years on our DVD-ROM collection, available from customer service or at www.FineScale.com/FSMDVD. I’ve used stretched sprue and monofilament (invisible thread or fine fishing line) to rig ships. The secrets to good rigging, no matter what you use, are exact measurements, sturdy glue, and working from the inside out.

I recommend using dividers or calipers to measure the lengths of wire, sprue, or monofilament needed.

You can use super glue to attach rigging. But I prefer a craft glue, especially Aleene’s Tacky Glue. It holds the part quickly and securely but has enough flexibility to (hopefully) prevent some breaks. It can also be dissolved with water if you don’t like the location. If the attachment point is big enough, drill a hole to thread it through. It’ll be a stronger connection and may allow you to pull the rigging tighter.

Start with the innermost wires and work outward. This should help you avoid wires already installed — unless you are clumsy, like I am, in which case nothing will help.

Painting photoetched metal Q What is the most effective way of paint-

ing photoetched-metal parts? I have tried all the techniques from many modeling magazines, but nothing seems to be really effective in preventing the paint from lifting. I have tried Mr. Metal Primer and all the other primers on the market, but nothing seems to work. Is there anything left that I could do?

– Robert Chavez Quezon City, Philippines A The short answer is that most model paints don’t adhere well to metal. Enamels will stick better than acrylics, but they can still chip off under stress and handling.

There are a couple of things that can help. Try roughing up the surfaces by lightly sanding them. You can easily do this with

larger pieces before folding, but you can sand the entire fret, too. Place the part or fret flat on a table and lightly rub with medium or fine sandpaper, or place the sandpaper flat and rub the part against it. Another option is to submerge the fret in vinegar for a short period of time. The mild acid should slightly etch the surface, giving the paint something to bite on. It is also a good way to remove any remaining oils on the surface.

My experience is that all of the preparation in the world can’t prevent some paint from chipping off during construction. So, be prepared for touch-ups.

Masking cockpits and canopies Q What is the best way to mask aircraft

cockpits and canopies?

– Warren Tyson Blenheim, New Zealand

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A You can use tape to mask canopies. I prefer the thin, yellow tape sold by Tamiya, but I’ve seen modelers use standard masking tape or Scotch tape. If the framing is well-defined, it’s easy to place a piece of tape over the part to be masked and trim along the frame edge with a sharp (new) hobby-knife blade. Alternatively, you can outline the pane with thin strips of tape, then fill in the rest of the window with more tape or a liquid mask like Microscale Micro Mask or Humbrol Maskol. I have used self-adhesive foil (Bare-Metal Foil) to mask canopies. The principle is the same: Place a piece of foil over the area to be masked, burnish it along the frame edges, then trim the excess with a sharp knife. If the frame molding is indistinct and difficult to see under tape or foil, I like using pre-cut masks, such as those from Eduard. They make masking a snap.

Here are a couple ideas for masking an open cockpit to prevent overspray from reaching the interior. FSM author James Green cuts masks from a note card to fit the openings, then secures them with liquid mask. Remember to mask the cockpit opening and any canopy sections you may have already attached. After painting, the masks pull up from the model with a little tug and excess liquid mask is easily peeled off. I have stuck tape across these kind of openings. You can also fill the opening with a wad of tissue or other paper. Wetting it first can make it conform to the opening more exactly and create a tighter fit. FSM

SUBSCRIBER-ONLY CONTENT More than 250 tips online at www.FineScale.com/ReaderTips

Reader Tips Solutions and innovations

By Mark Hembree

Happy accident: exhaust stains with Tamiya flat base

After nearly ruining a model when I oversprayed it with Tamiya flat base (I mistakenly thought it was a clear flat), I noticed that the very appearance of the dried base looked surprisingly similar to what I had seen in actual aircraft exhaust stains.

Airbrushed sparingly on top of the regular black/brown exhaust stain and close to the exhaust stacks, the flat base dries into a convincing representation of a “lean” fuelmixture discoloration along the fuselage. I have compared it with the stains on my own 1998 ACA Scout airplane, and dang if it does not look like the real thing. (By the way, I clean that muck off every time I am finished flying!)

– Woodrow Anselen Corona, Calif.

Interdental microbrushes

I have found some interdental brushes made by Wisdom (a British brand) that have no wire at all. Made of soft plastic, their conical tips are coated with “rubber” teeth. They are perfect for cleaning the tips of airbrushes (even the smallest ones), and are safe for plastic airbrush tips (like Aztek). I use them for other duties as well (like correcting paint on canopies). Look for similar types in a store near you.

– Elias Trapezanlides Hellinikon, Greece Decal text alignment

Sometimes the only way to properly letter a model is by using single characters cut from a sheet. But aligning individual characters can be a challenge, both vertically and horizontally, especially in a limited space (such as between two windows or hatches on a fuselage side).

I’ve found a way that works pretty well (for me, anyway). After I’ve cut the individual characters from the decal sheet, I arrange them in order on a piece of Scotch tape (on the back sides of the decals, of course). That way, I can dip and slide a whole string of characters at once; the only FSM wants you!

Send us your tips! Visit FineScale.com and click on “Contact Us.” Or, you can mail your idea to us at Reader Tips, FineScale Modeler, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612.

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FineScale Modeler

December 2012

1

2

Recognition lights ere’s an easy way to make realistic recognition lights for aircraft. First, punch disks of the desired size out of Bare-Metal Foil. Next, place the disks on your aircraft and burnish them down, 1. (Note: A smooth surface prepped with Pledge Future floor polish improves the foil’s adherence.)

Now, color the disks with fine-tip ink pens. Let the ink dry, apply a light coat of Future, and let that dry, 2. You can add more color after the Future is dry if you want a darker color, or more Future if you want more lens for the light.

H

– Ken Meyer Colorado Springs, Colo.

thing left to do is to shift the characters into place while they’re still wet. This way, you can be sure that the first and last characters are in the right place — because nothing is more frustrating than setting the first character in place, then getting to the last one only to find you should have put the first one (which is now dry) a millimeter to the left. I’ve found that this process works well for as many as 10 characters.

– Greg Kolasa Wantage, N.J. Mud for mud

I think the best material for modeling mud is the joint compound used for drywall. I put a bit of it in a small container, then add paint to color the type of mud I want. It looks great, and on tracks it has the same sag and droop as actual mud.

– John Gerhart Columbia, Mo. Credit cards and holograms can come in handy

When you find yourself buying too many models and decide it’s time to cut up your credit cards, remember that you can get some neat science fiction effects from them

— specifically, the security holograms on many cards make cool instrument panel screens. For instance, when I was building an old Monogram 1/32 scale SeaQuest DSV Deep Ocean Transport, I used part of an earth map hologram for the cockpit screen. The thick card stock also can be used for plastic structural elements or made thinner with a motor tool or sandpaper and cut to shape with a knife. You can find these holograms on some of the sample cards you get with junk mail, too — just in case you want to keep your present card and keep buying kits.

– Mark DeCew Los Angeles, Calif.

A kinder, gentler hemostat

Hemostats are sometimes too powerful a grip or a pain to unlock, especially with fine work. So, I grind the locking teeth off the hemostat and use a rubber band to hold it closed. The rubber band can be adjusted to whatever pressure you need, allowing you to hold parts more gently. When you’re through, it’s easy to loosen the rubber band and open the hemostat.

– Howard Morrow Bethel Park, Penn.

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53

Workbench Reviews FSM evaluations of new kits on the market

Big Mustang a learning experience

T

he P-51D Mustang was the ultimate versions; full wing-gun detail; drop tanks; U.S. fighter of World War II. Often open or closed cowling; and posable flaps considered the best all-around fighter and flying surfaces. aircraft of its time, it went on to serve in The Packard-Merlin engine is almost a the Korean War. kit by itself. It even has the pistons and As with its other releases, Zoukei-Mura rods! Parts are provided for standard factory provides a unique presentation by including exhaust covers. I needed to enlarge the extensive internal detail, giving openings for the exhaust pipes, you additional insights to the and even after that they were a ENGINE … aircraft’s construction. tight fit. Take care in positionEVEN HAS What caught my attention ing the exhaust stacks properly, ... PISTONS when starting this kit was the especially if you take the extensive instruction manual closed-cowling option. If you AND RODS! — it’s a book! I loved that it use the exhaust covers, they was printed like a WWII must fit perfectly through the Army Air Forces manual. It’s an impressive cowl opening. (The uncovered-exhaust effort, sparing nothing to give clear, precise option should not have this issue.) drawings, photos, and tips. I studied it careBringing the engine together with the fully before beginning the build. engine bearers and attaching this to the The kit features a complete engine com- firewall must be a precise operation. partment with all the associated plumbing Otherwise the engine thrust line will be off, along with oil and coolant radiators. causing all kinds of problems later on. This Additional features include: three canopy also applies to attaching the engine/firewall

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FineScale Modeler

December 2012

assembly to the cockpit module. Some of the parts had poorly placed attachment points, either on the sprue or the part itself.

The cockpit assembly is well detailed from front to back, with a faithfully reproduced wood floor construction. Other features include oxygen bottles, fuel tank, and radio equipment. This module is completed with the oil and coolant radiators and their outlet tunnel.

The wings assemble easily and mimic the actual construction by representing the full-span top surface. The control stick mounts to this, just like the real deal.

Wheel-well framing is provided, with the bay going back to the wing spar (a detail missed on most previous P-51 kits).

After bringing the fuselage together with the wing, I found that my fuselage construction was a bit problematic. I had an issue with the right side wing fillet mating to the fuselage; there was a large gap. I also found the windscreen, Part K2, would not

SUBSCRIBER-ONLY CONTENT More than 1,200 reviews online at www.FineScale.com/Reviews

Instead of adding two wings to the fuselage, Zoukei-Mura represents the entire wing as a separate assembly, including internal details, that is mated to the fuselage — just like the real thing.

fit flush at the bottom edge. I used putty to address the gaps. I had to conclude something I did within the fuselage structure was out of alignment.

The tail assembly is built up as a separate module and mates to the back of the fuselage, where pins in one bulkhead fit into its counterpart. I was not too happy with the result, which needed filler to close the gaps. From my experience, it is key to get both bulkheads (parts C5 and C6) properly installed for a good fit.

If I were to build this kit again, I would deviate from the instructions’ construction sequence and assemble all of the exterior fuselage parts first, building up the fuselage halves. This would ensure a smooth fit at all of the joints. Then, I would install the interior parts.

The kit includes the original teardropshaped drop tanks. External plumbing for these tanks is a nice touch.

I painted my Mustang with both Tamiya spray and acrylic colors. For Old Crow, I used Tamiya RAF dark green (XF-81) for the top color. Documentation for the 357th Fighter Group indicates field-applied camo would be done with more readily available RAF stocks.

Extensive decals are given for three colorful schemes, with a large portion given to stenciling. I found that the checkerboard and D-Day stripes worked best if they are cut into smaller sections. All the decals applied well with the use of decal solution.

My main reference was the book, Building the P-51 Mustang: The Story of Manufacturing North American’s Legendary World War II Fighter in Original Photos, by Michael O’Leary (Specialty Press, ISBN 978-1-58007-152-9). I also found useful North American P-51D Mustang, by Robert Peczkowski (Mushroom, ISBN 978-8389450-60-9), and American Fighters Over

The heart of the P-51D was the powerful PackardMerlin engine, and it’s almost a kit in itself in ZoukeiMura’s model. Pay attention during construction to avoid alignment problems later.

Europe (Kalmbach, ISBN 978-0-89024711-2 ) was helpful.

The completed model matches the references. With all the changes in details between the various production blocks, the Zoukei-Mura model looks to have characteristics of the later D airframes (the straight dorsal fin fillet, for example).

I completed my Mustang in 41 hours and was pleased with the result, which captures the look of the P-51. The multiple panel construction of the fuselage is challenging, making this kit more suited to modelers with intermediate or better skills.

However, I firmly believe that you cannot have enough P-51 Mustangs in your collection. So, I highly recommend this kit to all WWII modelers who enjoy building in large scales.

– Jim Zeske

Kit: No. SWS04 Scale: 1/32 Manufacturer: Zoukei-Mura,

www.zoukeimura.co.jp, from Volks USA, 310-782-8324, www.volksusa.com Price: $95 Comments: Injection-molded, 277 parts, decals Pros: Fine engineering, execution, and detail; parts options to display the engine and gun bays; extensive instructions and diagrams Cons: Assemblies/construction sometimes difficult

December 2012 www.FineScale.com

55

Workbench Reviews

Kitty Hawk Lockheed F-94C Starfire

B

rand-new Kitty Hawk Models’ first kit is a 1/48 scale Lockheed F-94C Starfire. The kit comprises 125 injection-molded parts on three sprues of soft, light gray styrene, one clear sprue, three steel ball bearings, and a sheet of photoetched metal. The decal sheet is printed

by Cartograf and includes markings for two

Kit: No. KH80101 Scale: 1/48 Manufacturer: Kitty Hawk Models,

www.kittyhawkmodel.com, from Pacific Coast Models, 707-538-4850, www.pacmodels.com Price: $45.95 Comments: Injection-molded, 180 parts (42 photoetched metal, 3 ball bearings), decals Pros: Fine surface detail; good photoetched metal; quality decals Cons: Plastic easily damaged during part removal; incorrect shoulder harness

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FineScale Modeler

December 2012

colorful aircraft; as always with Cartograf, with the decal (instead of painting it). It the printing is crisp and in perfect register. worked fine! The metal parts fit perfectly The engraved panel lines are fine and conand, after painting and dry-brushing, sistent across the airframe. The flaps and looked convincing. rudder are molded separately but cannot be Removing some of the smaller detail posed. The exhaust and afterburner are parts is delicate work. The plastic is soft, realistically deep. Tires have a slight bulge/ brittle, and tends to “tear,” even when using flat spot molded on. side cutters. I went to a small razor saw for You do have a few options: The midsome of them. wing rocket pods can be built with their The seat belts are photoetched metal, steam lines, nose cones, or without showing but, strangely, only a single shoulder belt loaded rocket tubes; the was included instead of the speed brakes can be open or THE EXHAUST AND usual two. closed; and the canopy can With all the cockpit AFTERBURNER ARE parts painted, I was ready be open or closed.

The instruction book is REALISTICALLY DEEP to assemble them I noticed 12 pages, in color, with 19 there were ejector-pin steps of easy-to-read line marks in what I thought drawings. Paint colors are for Gunze was the bottom of the cockpit floor; actuSangyo acrylics; U.S. Federal Standard ally, it was the top of the floor. I ended up numbers are listed under them. I especially filling them with putty. Another issue with enjoyed the full-color decal placement the cockpit floor was the lack of locator guides on the last two pages. Nice! holes for the pins underneath the ejection Starting in the cockpit, you can use the seats. Instead of trying to locate and drill kit-supplied photoetched-metal side conthe holes, I simply removed the seats’ locatsoles; the instructions say a decal can be ing pins with a few swipes of a sanding used instead of the photoetched-metal stick. instrument panel. The problem with not Assembly of the fuselage was troubleusing the photoetched-metal panel is the free. I had no more trouble until Step 11: injection-molded one is too narrow and removing the two-piece air intakes without most of the decal would have to be marring them. The intakes had oversize trimmed to fit. I ended up using the metal attachment points; being careful here will

save fitting and sanding to hide seams later.

I discovered that Part C36 did not allow Part C34 to fit over it properly, so I left Part C36 out. I super glued the three ball bearings to the inside of part C34 to prevent the model from sitting on its tail.

When I test fitted the wing to the fuselage, I discovered a gap on both sides of the upper wings. A small spreader bar of scrap styrene resolved the issue.

The rest of the kit went smoothly. The photoetched-metal pieces for the wheelwell doors and speed brakes were just right.

For painting, I decanted Tamiya AS-12 bare-metal silver into my airbrush. Once that was dry, I gave the model a sludge wash of flat back to accent the panel lines.

I chose the decals shown in the box art.

Starting with the wingtip tanks, I noticed each of them had a raised rectangle about halfway down that the strips would have to fit over. Rather than deal with trying to make the decal conform, I sanded the raised area away. The red strips did not fit correctly at the front of the drop tank or with the vertical centerline of the tank. I ended up mixing some Tamiya red with a little orange to touch up the edges and make them line up.

I had left the nose radome off to this point to avoid having to mask it while painting the silver, and that ended up saving me some heartache. The kit-supplied ball-bearing weights weren’t enough to keep the plane on its three wheels, so I added a large fishing sinker to the inside of the radome and glued it in place. Problem solved.

I found Kitty Hawk’s Starfire an enjoyable build. I spent 25 hours on the model, which is fairly typical for me. If you have the modeling experience to deal with some of the fit issues and delicate parts, you will be rewarded with an attractive model.

– Jon Hergenrother

Platz Northrop Grumman X-47B U.S. Navy UCAS

D

o the math: This model took twice as long to decal as it did to paint, and twice as long to paint as it took to build — and assembly only took an hour.

In contrast to some other current kit brands, Platz’s design philosophy is to mold good detail but keep the number of parts to a minimum. This kit’s landing-gear bays and weapons bays are molded into the lower half of the aircraft’s fuselage. I’ve built recent kits that have five or six parts to make a single bay. Were these others trying to increase the degree of difficulty? By comparison, Platz’s X-47B is a breeze.

Of course, building a kit without having a cockpit to assemble, paint, and mask, or a canopy to prepare, mask, and paint, also helps speed the process. Platz provides nicely detailed landing gear and a pair of well-molded JDAMs for the weapons bay.

Optional parts allow you to pose the model with the wing spoilers raised and the wings folded. If you wanted to pose the model in flight, you would have to cut off all the mounting tabs of the landing-gear and weapons-bay doors.

The monochrome paint job also facilitated the project. The instructions recommend overall neutral gray. I found it easier to mask around and paint the bays gloss white after the overall gray was applied. I posed my model with wings spread and spoilers down.

The kit decals were excellent and went on without problems. But it was a long process, with fine, black wing-walk lines and

many individual items for stenciling.

Markings are provided for both test birds, as well as conjectural units and carrier names. The actual X-47 is still experimental, as the “X” denotes. The two Unmanned Combat Air System demonstrators first flew in 2011, and are still in testing.

Northrop Grumman built the stealthy drones, and there is no telling what the aircraft will look like if they ever reach production and service. But, for now, Platz provides us with a fine plastic glimpse of the future of air combat.

– Paul Boyer

Kit: No. AC-7 Scale: 1/72 Manufacturer: Platz,

www.platz-hobby.com, from Dragon Models USA, 626-968-0322, www.dragonmodelsusa.com Price: $39.95 Comments: Injectionmolded, 53 parts, decals Pros: Great fit; easy assembly; posable spoilers; optional folded wings; good decals Cons: Landinggear and weapons bay doors must be modified to close

December 2012 www.FineScale.com

57

Workbench Reviews

Meng Merkava Mk.IIID

I

srael’s Merkava main battle tanks have been a staple of modeling since the early 1980s when the early versions entered service. Meng’s new Mk.IIID fills an important gap in the available kits, bridging the gap between the early Mk.III and the latest version, the Mk.IV. The kit is also the first in Meng’s Tyrannosaurus series.

Molded in gray-green plastic, the parts

Kit: No. TS-001 Scale: 1/35 Manufacturer: Meng Models,

www.meng-model.com, from Stevens International, 856-435-1555, www.stevenshobby.com Price: $69.95 Comments: Injection-molded, 774 parts (20 vinyl polycaps, copper wire, string, lead foil), decals Pros: Great detail and fit; optional road wheels; easy ball-andchain armor; beautiful decals Cons: No nonskid texture; open sponsons

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FineScale Modeler

December 2012

show good detail, with crisp recessed lines, one in Lebanon in 2006, the other in Gaza sharp bolts, especially around the add-on in January 2009. armor, and well-textured mold seams. Fine The first six steps involve assembly of items like the stowage rack rails and grab the running gear. I was impressed by how handles are scale thin. well the multipart outer wheels drop-fit Among all the parts, certain things together with no need for fiddling or finestand out. The one-piece idlers have to be tuning. Pay attention: There are different seen to be believed. There’s detail front and road-wheel arms for each type of wheel. back as well as inside. Also, I really liked The road wheels, idlers, and drive sprockets the way Meng represents the all trap vinyl polycaps so the Merkava’s unique ball-and-chain ONE-PIECE wheels rotate after assembly. The apron that protects the gap only hiccup during construction is IDLERS underneath the turret bustle. that the plastic is a little soft, so it’s Other companies have used com- HAVE TO BE easy to damage the parts during SEEN TO BE removal and cleanup. binations of photoetched metal and plastic or photoetched metal BELIEVED I finished the lower hull with and metal balls. Meng instead the rear hatch and stowage basmolds fine chains and balls out of kets. The latter are a bit fiddly and plastic in strips glued to the bustle rack. the chains are easily broken, so be gentle These parts are delicate and need to be and take your time. handled with great care — ask me how I The upper hull came next and presented know — but they couldn’t have been easier few problems. Pay attention in steps 14 and to build, and they look great when finished. 15: They present optional driver’s hatches, The kit has a lot of other terrific feabut no information about which is approtures including: optional steel- or rubberpriate for the marking options. I left the rimmed road wheels; headlights that can be hull halves separate for painting and track modeled closed or open; movable hatches; assembly, but was disappointed by the gaps individual-link tracks; and lead sheet for under the sponsons; they let light in and the bustle-rack ID signs. The kit doesn’t will be visible through the driver’s hatch if include photoetched metal, but it didn’t it’s left open. It’s not a make or break thing seem it was needed. given the fender skirts, but it seems a little Decals are provided for two Merkavas: old-fashioned on a new kit.

Trumpeter BRDM-2

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The detailed turret takes a lot of parts and 27 steps to complete. There weren’t many wrinkles, but I departed from the sequence, assembling the turret panels before adding the fine details to make cleanup easy. (I didn’t need to do much.) I attached the lead foil with super glue.

The track links are off the sprues and bagged, but each had an attachment point on the outside face that needs to be sanded off to make construction easy. I built two runs for each side, glued them together with Testors liquid cement, then wrapped them around the running gear overnight. I removed the runs for painting.

Color choice for Israeli tanks can be puzzling. The kit calls for both marking options to be painted overall sandy brown. I found a couple of photos of Mk.IIIDs with camouflage that looked similar, but many wear a green-gray color. I used the kit-recommended Vallejo dark sand (No. 70847) over olive drab primer. The decals laid down beautifully over a coat of clear gloss with a little Microscale Micro Sol. The finished model looks terrific. I spent about 40 hours on mine, about average for a modern tank kit without photoetched metal. The delicate parts make this a kit for intermediate rather than beginning modelers.

– Aaron Skinner

he BRDM-2 (Boyevaya Razvedyvatelnaya Dozornaya Mashina, or Combat Reconnaissance/Patrol Vehicle) is an amphibious, wheeled, armored reconnaissance vehicle and personnel carrier designed and produced by the Soviet Union and still used by Russia.

A whole line of vehicles was produced; anti-tank, anti-aircraft, and NBC (Nuclear, Biological, and Chemical).

Trumpeter’s rendition has a detailed fighting compartment with posable hatches, radios, a gunner’s seat, and driver and commander stations. Markings are included for three different vehicles: regular army, airborne, and a naval vehicle.

However, no there are no illustrations for the airborne or naval versions. I couldn’t even find any on the Internet.

Building up the lower hull in five steps, I didn’t have any issues with fit. The suspension is made up of many small parts.

Care needs to taken when adding the belly wheels to the hull; they’re a bit on the tight side. You have a choice of stored or deployed belly wheels. The intake trunk, propeller, and photoetched-metal grille went together well.

An impressively detailed interior is next in the instructions. The radio sets, instrument panel, and driver’s controls are all there. There was no decal for the instrument panel, so I painted the dials gloss black. The interior lower surfaces are painted Tamiya dark green (XF-61); the hull top inside is white.

I test-fitted the upper and lower hulls and found a gap around the front; I filled it in and sanded it smooth. There are holes that need to be drilled — and some to be filled — on the upper hull. I had an issue with the vision blocks being too thick; I had to file out their locations a little to get a better fit.

The turret is built up from several parts, as is the 14.5mm cannon breech. I painted the breech dark green, the scope gloss black, and the barrels of the 14.5mm cannon and 7.62mm machine gun with Testors tita-

nium before installation. The rest of the interior is painted white.

I left the tires in their natural black and weathered them with Tamiya pastels to see if they would stick, and the results were good. If you install the wheels according to instructions, the model will roll freely.

I painted the vehicle exterior with Tamiya dark green and applied Tamiya weathering pastels. My reference photos were in the book Soviet Wheeled Armored Vehicles, by Steve Zaloga (Concord, ISBN 978-962-361-013-1).

I chose the markings illustrated in the instructions and put down the decals over a gloss coat.

The build took me 20 hours, a little longer than I thought it would, but it should pose no great problem for modelers with a little experience building armor.

The model is highly detailed right out of the box. I hope Trumpeter will bring out other versions — there are a lot of armies using this vehicle, so there are a lot of interesting schemes out there.

– Tom Foti

Kit: No. 05511 Scale: 1/35 Manufacturer: Trumpeter,

www.trumpeter-china.com, available from Stevens International, 856-4351555, www.stevenshobby.com Price: $46.95 Comments: Injectionmolded, 253 parts (12 photoetched metal, 8 vinyl), decals Pros: Good moldings; posable hatches; well-detailed Cons: Minor fit issues; incomplete decal instructions

December 2012 www.FineScale.com

59

Workbench Reviews

Zvezda Boeing 747-8

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n 2005, 35 years after the 747 began commercial service, Boeing announced the first stretch of the airframe to create the -8. The new aircraft was almost 20 feet longer than previous 747s (with the notable exception of the 747SP, a shortened version of the -100 aircraft designed for extralong-range flights), and is the longest airliner ever built. The aircraft uses the same engines and cockpit systems as the 787, and has a new wing designed for greater efficiency.

Boeing offers two variants of the aircraft — the -8F Freighter and the -8I Intercontinental passenger aircraft, which

Kit: No. 7010 Scale: 1/144 Manufacturer: Zvezda, www.zvezda.

org.ru, from Dragon Models USA, 626968-0322, www.dragonmodelusa.com Price: $33.95 Comments: Injectionmolded, 156 parts, decals Pros: Fine surface detail; good fits; great engines; display stand Cons: Decals yellowed

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entered service with Lufthansa in June to paint the lower red. My sole complaint is 2012. The latter, with an upper deck that photos show that many of the markextending back to the wing, is the subject of ings, such as the tail, have soft demarcation the Zvezda kit. lines. But that’s not too hard to fix. There Molded in medium gray plastic, the are few items missing, notably a registration parts feature the beautifully fine detail for and a prominent hull number worn by the which Zvezda’s airliners are known. Panel test aircraft. lines are as fine as they can be and look Fit was outstanding. I applied a little good under paint. filler along the fuselage join to Unfortunately, the control SEPARATE PIECES be sure it disappeared. I left surface outlines are just as the cabin windows off for ease RE-CREATE THE fine; I’ve learned from of painting and filled them CHARACTERISTIC experience that deepening with Microscale Kristal Klear them slightly with a scriber SCALLOPS ON THE at the end of the build. makes them look better on Typical of Zvezda’s airlinTRAILING EDGES the finished model. ers, the wing has a single The cabin windows — lower piece and includes part molded open and designed to be filled with of the belly and two upper pieces. The clear plastic parts — are the correct ovals, upper halves include the entire trailing and the door windows are square (as they edge, so you get a sharp line. Unfortunately, should be). The upper-deck windows look a the join doesn’t always follow a panel line, little too tall, though. necessitating filling, sanding, and re-scribFans of Boeing’s jumbo have wanted a ing. The completed wing fits tightly, but I kit that captured the big airliner’s nose, and glued it on before painting to ensure a solid Zvezda has done a great job. It matches join and no headaches later. drawings and photos both from the side The General Electric GEnx engines are and top better than any previous kit. works of art, with open fans, one-piece Unfortunately, the wingbox looks a little intake rings, and crisp detail. Separate anemic at the rear, and the detail is a little pieces re-create the characteristic scallops soft around the front. on the trailing edges. I carefully painted Decals are provided for Boeing’s bright and assembled the components, using super red, orange, and gold house colors, and, glue and sanding to eliminate gaps around unlike Zvezda’s Dreamliner, you only have the cowl and pylon.

Meng Models Mansyu Ki-98

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I left the engines, horizontal stabilizers, and landing gear off for painting. The instructions call for the wings to be white, but images of the test aircraft show they are light gray. I airbrushed the wings and stabs Testors Model Master Canadian voodoo gray — a good match for Boeing gray. I sprayed the fuselage with Tamiya white fine surface primer, followed with Tamiya pure white, and applied masks created from a photocopy of the decal sheet before applying Tamiya spray-can Italian red.

After painting the leading edges Alclad II aluminum, I applied the decals. They are very thin and can be easily damaged with setting solutions. So, I used water only to float them into place. The markings are opaque, but they yellowed on the model.

I sealed the decals with Pledge Future floor polish, then lightly masked the markings that needed soft edges and airbrushed white and red, respectively.

Final assembly was a snap. Take care with the complex landing gear to ensure alignment. The aft legs were a tad short; add the wing gear first, then use slow-setting glue to position the rear legs.

The finished model looks like Boeing’s big, new bird. It’s a relatively easy build, but some of the small parts, as well as the complex paint scheme, make it more suitable for moderately experienced builders.

– Aaron Skinner

iven the popularity of “Luftwaffe ’46” models, I was not surprised to see a kit maker apply the same idea to Japanese “drawing board” aircraft.

Meng Models of Hong Kong has embraced this concept. The Ki-98 is its second such release.

According to the instructions, the Ki-98, developed by Mansyu (Manchurian Aeroplane Manufacturing Company), was to be a ground-attack fighter powered by the 2,200-horsepower Mitsubishi Ha-221 Ru engine. Japanese forces destroyed the prototype, drawings, and other documentation at the end of the war. Evidently, enough information survived for Meng to produce a model of this interesting aircraft.

The kit is molded in light gray plastic with finely scribed panel lines. A 10-page foldout instruction booklet takes you through 12 steps and ends with a decal and painting guide. There are decals for three hypothetical camouflage schemes: Japanese, Manchurian, or Thai.

The cockpit is adequately detailed for this scale, so all I did was add safety belts made from tape. I used Tamiya’s cockpit green (XF-71) for the main cockpit color.

There’s room for extra detail, but you can’t see much once the canopy is in place.

Though the instructions don’t call for any nose weight, you will need to add some — it is definitely a tail-sitter.

Once the cockpit tub and nose wheel well are glued in, the rest of the construction proceeds at a fast pace. I was impressed with the overall fit of the model. The only area that needed filler was where the bottom of the fuselage mates with the wing.

Wing sections and booms literally snap together.

To replicate the color of the wheel wells, I first sprayed them with Gunze Sangyo metallic blue-green (H63), then lightly misted Alclad’s airframe aluminum over those areas.

Since I didn’t have any models with Manchukuo markings in my collection, I chose that option.

For the natural-metal finish, I used paints from the Alclad II line. After applying Alclad’s gray primer and giving it a light sanding to produce a very smooth surface, I sprayed the panel lines and some random panels with Alclad black primer. When I sprayed

the main color of airframe aluminum, the black undercoat produced some tonal surface variations with just one layer of paint.

Next, I sprayed dull aluminum on all the flying surfaces, and buffed some panels with a cotton swab to add variations to the surface. Later, I buffed the entire model to get a metallic sheen, then sprayed on a couple of coats of Alclad’s aqua gloss clear.

There were only eight decals to apply, but they were a little bit of a disappointment. They were rigid and didn’t respond well to setting solutions.

Though I usually shy away from “what if ” subjects, this model was enjoyable and easy to build. In only 19 hours I had added a well-detailed, unique model to my collection. I would recommend it to modelers at all skill levels.

– Phil Pignataro

Kit: No. DS-002 Scale: 1/72 Manufacturer: Meng Models,

www.meng-model.com, from Stevens International, 856-435-1555, www.stevenshobby.com Price: $32.95 Comments: Injection-molded, 49 parts, decals Pros: Exquisite surface detail; great overall fit; thin trailing edges Cons: Thick canopy frame; stiff decals required several applications of setting solution to conform to surfaces

December 2012 www.FineScale.com

61

Workbench Reviews

Roden Douglas C-124A Globemaster II

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lthough not the first kit of the Globemaster II in 1/144 scale, this is the first injection molded C-124.

Roden’s release is of the initial production version, the C-124A, although it looks as if there will be later versions to come, judging by the wingtip heater pods (no, they aren’t tip tanks) and the nose radome included in the sprue map of the instructions.

My first impressions of the kit were good, with reasonable detail included in the engine fronts and landing gear. However, closer inspection reveals the true short-run nature of the molding. Each part had to be

Kit: No. 306 Scale: 1/144 Manufacturer: Roden, www.roden.eu,

from Squadron Mail Order, 877-4140434, www.squadron.com Price: $35.99 Comments: Injectionmolded, 115 parts, decals Pros: Nice wheel hubs; good decals Cons: Getting fits gave me fits; errors in instructions; thick trailing edges; incorrect engine cowls

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checked for fit, sanded, and seams removed prior to assembly. The fin and rudder are molded separately from the fuselage, requiring much trimming, filing, and filling to get a good join. Plan on using some sandpaper, as the mating edges of the fuselage and wings are very roughly molded with no even, flat attachment surfaces. I felt as though I were preparing a vacuumformed kit — and treating the parts in this fashion produces reasonable fits between the major assemblies. It also helps to thin the trailing edges of the flying surfaces for a more scale appearance. These are not skills beyond even the most inexperienced modelers, being more akin to rough carpentry than finish work.

After assembling the major airframe components — you remembered to add a ton of nose weight, didn’t you? — the seams are filled and the engines added.

Unfortunately, Roden has made a mistake on the engine cowlings, as they appear from the front to have the “double smile” of the earlier C-74 Globemaster I cowlings, rather than the uninterrupted circles of the C-124. Also, the instructions imply that each engine has a rear bulkhead — but only the inboards have them for the gear wells.

Speaking of landing gear, I was worried that it wouldn’t be up to the task of holding up this hefty hauler. Super glue works wonders, however, and in no time Ol’ Shaky was on her feet. The wheels and gear legs exhibit good detail, but the main landing gear doors are grotesquely thick and out of

scale. Roden does a good job with all the other items on the underside, with clear instructions to drill out holes for the flap fairings on the outer wing as well as a host of antennas and fairings. Also, according to my references, Part 14, the scoop just below the fin, should be added, even though the parts map has it labeled “not for use.” Also incorrectly ignored is Part 15, the tail bumper. Instead, Roden should have shaded the other halves of the wingtip heater pods, Parts 17 and 18, to indicate “not for use.”

There is only one decal option included in the kit, in natural metal with high visibility red markings on the wings and tail.

Masking took a bit of time. But the result is a colorful bird. The decals worked well, with the only issues being a slight translucence of the yellow that shows any air bubbles, some problems with smudged print in the word Service on one side, and a bit of the same on one of the tail bands. But those things were not that noticeable.

Roden’s C-124 is something of a mixed bag. It shows good molding and design in some instances – like the wheel hubs and engines – and yet is let down by other poorly molded parts and incorrect engine cowls. Still, it’s the easiest way to build a C-124, and, with some work, it can be made to look the part. I spent a little more than 21 hours on mine, but could easily have taken more. I’ll recommend it to experienced modelers — but be ready to work.

– Chuck Davis

Modeler’s Mart F o r i n f o r m a t i o n , c a l l : 1 - 8 8 8 - 5 5 8 - 1 5 4 4 • J i m H a g e r t y, e x t . 5 4 9

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Canopy masking and more! www.ezmasks.

Com List $3.00. Chris Loney, 75 Golf Club Rd., Smiths Falls, ON, Canada K7A 4S5. 613-283-5206.

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ARIZONA • Tempe

Specializing in plastic models & accessories.

Large selection of plastics, after-market detail accessories, decals, paint, books & tools.

Full-line hobby shop. www.thehobbydepot.com

HOBBY DEPOT

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Headquarters for scale hobbies. Models; N-HO-O-G trains; gaming; tools; paints, etc.

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Large selection of plastic kits, paints, and supplies. Special orders no problem Visit us in person or online www.houseofhobbies.com Secure online ordering

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Kits, plastic & wood, Slot cars & toys. Rockets, paint, glue and tools. Trains from Z to O. Monday-Friday 10-7; Saturday 10-5; closed Sunday & Big Holidays. www.scalemodelstuff.com

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Model planes, car, ships & figures. Model train scales: Z, N, HO, O & G. Paints, tools. R/C & parts, incl. service. Craft & educational kits, supplies, products. Clinics available. Tu-Sat 11 -6; Sun 12-4. www.debbiebartunek@mac.com

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201-C McCray St.

64

831-635-0537

FineScale Modeler

ship and airCraft models. Built for display. For additional information contact, Ray Guinta, PO Box 74, Leonia, NJ 07605. www.rayguinta.com

looking for ColleCtions: Whether it is 1 or 101, Fire House Hobbies is looking for collections. Please send us your list to: engco45@yahoo.com or mail them to Fire House Hobbies, 11802 North Marlton Ave., Upper Marlboro, MD 20772.

a big buyer of airCraft, Armor, Sci-Fi, Resin, Hybrid or Plastic kits. We buy collections whether they are small or large- Worldwide as well. Call Don Black toll free 1-866-4627277. Don Black, 119 Bernhurst Road, New Bern, NC 28560.

E-mail don@donblack.com airCraft, armor, sCi-fi, figures, auto, etC. Buying kit collections, large or small, worldwide. Top prices paid. Call Jim Banko 610-814-2784 or mail list to 122 Independence Ct., Bethlehem, PA 18020, fax 610-439-4141. E-mail: cth1@prodigy.net

1st and absolutely the best museum-quality models. IPMS Nationals winner building aircraft and armor to your specification, including conversions and scratchbuilt.

Call BC Models for quote and information at 913-385-9594 or visit www.bcmmodels.com

Local Hobby Shop Directory

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model Car and truCk kits. Unbuilt or built. Any size collection. Good prices paid. Please contact: Fred Sterns, 48 Standish, Buffalo, NY 14216. Phone: 716-838-6797. Fax: 716836-6057. E-mail: fsterns@aol.com you will never find time to build all those models. Unbuilt kits, diecast aircraft, military books. Milam Models, 519 DiLorenzo Dr., Naperville, IL 60565, Phone: 630983-1407, jetpilotpaul@aol.com

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MASSACHUSETTS • Malden (Boston) Largest store in area, easy access via I-93, Rt. 1, and the T. Complete line of model kits & supplies, plus toy soldiers, figure kits, games, etc. Shipping available.

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Planes, tanks, cars, ships, rockets, plastic and wood kits. Trains. Authorized Lionel dealer & repair. Die-cast, RC, slot cars, structural and diorama supplier. Special orders welcome.

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Best selection for plastic scale modelers in Florida State! Import / Export Germany-USA Custom Made 1/6 R/C Tanks & Figures New Warehouse Outlet Mon-Fri 12-6 www.modelers-paradise.com

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December 2012

i want to buy your unbuilt model kits.

Any size collection. Dean Sills, 214 E. Main, Flushing, MI 48433. 810-659-2137. Fax: 810-659-0937. E-mail: deanshobbystop@comcast.net

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www.rlbshop.Com Model Soldiers 1/32 scale 54mm American Revolutionary War/ American Civil War Plastic Soldiers Fully Painted. 714-404-8002. Ask for Rick.

Closing Dates: Published 10 times a year. Jan. 2013 issue closes Oct. 16, Feb. closes Nov. 9, Mar. closes Dec. 12, April closes Jan. 15, May closes Feb. 12, July closes April 16, Sep. closes June 11, Oct. closes July 16, Nov. closes Aug. 12, Dec. closes Sept. 17.

buying unbuilt kit ColleCtions! 200 kits or 2,000! Especially looking for 50s & 60s kits (Aurora, Revell, Monogram, Lindberg, etc.), Ships, Space, Sci-Fi & Figures, decals and aftermarket items and more! We spent over $50,000 on collections last year! Pickup often available. Send list: Jeff Garrity, 2325 Western Avenue, Suite 6, Las Vegas, NV 89102 or rare-plane@cox.net If collection is too large to easily list call 702-564-2851.

203-882-1979

Stop in ONCE! A customer for LIFE! We have 10,000+ models, tools, supplies, 23 paint lines, 50 model mags, 5,000+ books.

Est. in 1973, open 7 days, Th & Fr 'til 8.

Visit us @ www.sparetimeshop.com

THE SPARE TIME SHOP

Rt 20E Main, Post Rd. Plaza

508-481-5786

MASSACHUSETTS • Norton

6,000 model kits, old and new: Autos, armor, planes & sci-fi. Reference books & supplies.

Open T-Th 11-7, F 11-8, Sa 10-5. Rt. 495 to Rt. 123E, behind Dunkin’ Donuts. www. mymummy.com E: mummy@mymummy.com

HARRY’S HOBBIES & COLLECTABLES

250 E. Main St., Rt 123

508-285-8080

MICHIGAN • Royal Oak (Metro Detroit)

New & Old Toy Soldiers, Historical Miniatures, Models and Figure Kits from Around the World. Our famous selection of hobby supplies includes scenics, paints, reference and more. www.michtoy.com

MICHIGAN TOY SOLDIER & FIGURE CO.

1400 E. 11 Mile Rd.

248-586-1022

MICHIGAN • Traverse City

MichiganÕs largest selection of kits. All types and scales plus supplies. Hard to find kits and current issues. Wed-Sat 11-8, Sun 12-5.

15 minutes west of DTW via I-94.

MODELCAVE

103 W Michigan Avenue

734-316-2281

MINNESOTA • Waite Park (St. Cloud) Central MinnesotaÕs full line hobby shop. www.bakershobby.com

BAKER’S HOBBY EMPORIUM

51 3rd Street NE

320-252-0460

NEVADA • Las Vegas While in Las Vegas, come see our wide selection of models and detail accessories.

Less than 5 miles off the Las Vegas strip Hours Mon-Fri 10-7, Sat 10-6, Sun noon-5.

HOBBYTOWN USA

4590 W Sahara Ave Ste 103

702-889-9554

NEW HAMPSHIRE • Dover Best plastic, resin & balsa kits from around the world. Scratch building & diorama supplies, reference books, large paint selection including Humbrol, Citadel & Testors

ELITE HOBBIES

#334 90 Washington St.

603-749-0800

NEW JERSEY • Kenvil Full service hobbies, a full line of HO, N, 3-Rail, military, cars, boats, planes, dollhouses, scratchbuilding supplies, plus details-details-details!

590 Rt. 46

KENVIL HOBBIES

973-584-1188

NEW JERSEY • Magnolia (Camden) Huge foreign & domestic model selection all scales. Automobiles, aircraft ship, books, wargames, scenery, diorama supplies, parts, tools. Open 7 days

AAA HOBBIES & CRAFTS

706 N. White Horse Pike

856-435-7645

NEW YORK • Astoria L.I.C. Car, Plane, Military, Models, Trains, Paints, Tools, Diecast.

Art Supplies, Wood & Wood Models Open Wed., Thur., Fri., Sat. 11:00 to 6:30.

RUDY'S HOBBY & ART

35-16 30th Avenue

718-545-8280

NEW YORK • Deer Park

Let your imagination run wild!

Aircraft, ships, cars, armor, special orders, diecast cars, dollhouse miniatures, model railroading Z to G and more...

TRAINS & THINGS HOBBIES

210 East Front St.

MICHIGAN • Ypsilanti-Metro Detroit

231-947-1353

Military oriented hobby shop. Armour, naval & aircraft models. After market products incl., tank tracks, diorama materials, books, mags, tools, paints, war videos, slot cars & more.

Call for hrs. www.alsandmdseco.com

ALSANDÕS TOY SOLDIERS PLUS

848 Long Island Ave.

631-254-2650

NEW YORK • Middle Island

PENNSYLVANIA • Salunga (Lancaster)

Excellent selection of lead miniatureshistorical and fantasy. Plastic models, wargames & modeling supplies.

Books and magazines.

MEN AT ARMS HOBBIES, INC.

134 Middle Country Rd.

631-924-0583

NEW YORK • Upr Eastside GR Manhattan Visit our in-house Aircraft Model Museum.

Foreign and domestic plastic and wood kits.

Open 7 days.

JAN'S HOBBY SHOP, INC.

1435 Lexington Ave.

212-987-4765

OHIO • Cleveland (Lakewood)

WINGS HOBBY SHOP

216-221-5383

OHIO • Columbus

Both complete stores. Great selection of Model Kits, accessories, detail parts, magazines, tools & paints. www.hobbylandstores.com

HOBBYLAND

Graceland Shopping Center Reynoldsburg

614-888-7500 614-866-5011

OKLAHOMA • Owasso

Oklahoma’s largest plastic kit, paint and aftermarket inventory. Planes, cars, armor, ships, trains and sci-fi. Special orders welcome!

Mon - Fri 10-7, Sat 11-6, Sun 1-5.

Web site: www.topshelfmodelsllc.com

TOP SHELF MODELS

119 S. Main St.

866-210-0687

OREGON • Beaverton

TAMMIES HOBBIES

503-644-4535

OREGON • Portland

Armor, aircraft ships and car models.

Historical and fantasy games, miniatures, military history reference books and magazines. www.bthobbies.com Open 10am-6pm every day.

BRIDGETOWNE HOBBIES & GAMES,

3350 NE Sandy Blvd

717-898-7119

TENNESSEE • Knoxville

East Tennessee’s largest plastic model selection. 7,500 sq. ft. of hobbies & toys.

Located in Knoxville’s premier shopping destination. Turkey Creek Area.

Open 7 days a week.

HOBBYTOWN USA

11364 Parkside Dr.

865-675-1975

Rutherford Co.Õs largest selection of hobby items. Carrying a wide variety of plastic & wood models, paints, tools & supplies.

Located just off I-24 on Medical Center Pkwy (exit 76). Open M-F 10-7; Sat 10-5.

HOBBYTOWN USA

536-J N.Thompson Ln.

615-890-6777

TEXAS • Amarillo

Plastic aircraft, armor, cars, figures & ships, model railroading supplies & rockets.

Take Osage exit I-40, South to 34th St. Right 1/2 mile to Tradewind Business Park, turn left to 3601. http://www.hobby-time.com

HOBBY TIME

3601 Airway Blvd.

806-352-9660

TEXAS • Houston HO & N, Lionel trains.

Complete line of plastic kits, military and architecture supplies.

Open 11am-6pm, Sat. 10am-5pm

G & G MODEL SHOP

713-529-7752

2522 Times Blvd.

503-234-1881

LARRY’S HOBBIES

281-443-7373

TEXAS • Houston area (Bellaire)

Broad selection of foreign & domestic model kits: aircraft, armor, diecast, decals, autos, detail parts, trains, slot cars, books, tools, collectibles, old kits. We buy unbuilt models.

Special orders welcome. www.mmhobby.com

M & M HOBBY CENTER

6703 Chimney Rock

Ad Index

Imported & Domestic Aviation Books & Plastic Kits. FAOW, Paint, Decals, HO, N trains, R/C, U/C airplanes.

Mon 1-6, Tue-Wed 10:30-6, Thur-Fri 10:30-7.

Sat 9:30-6. www.malhobby.com

M-A-L HOBBY SHOP

108 S. Lee Street

972-438-9233

TEXAS • San Antonio

Scale modeling from beginner to expert.

A wide selection of aircraft, armor, autos, figures, ships, & sci-fi. Lots of reference material, detail parts, decals, tools, & eight lines of paint. Open Tues-Sat 10-6pm.

DIBBLE'S HOBBIES

1029 Donaldson Ave.

210-735-7721

TEXAS • San Antonio

Plastic kits/references/paints/tools from around the world. Special orders welcome.

Discounts to IPMS military, firefighters, police, etc. Open Tues-Wed 12-7, Thur-Sat 10-7, Sun 1-5. www.hillcountryhobby.com

HILL COUNTRY HOBBY

9355 Bandera Rd., Ste. 109

210-681-2007

VIRGINIA • Chantilly

Minutes from Dulles Airport & New Dulles Air & Space Museum, Udvar-Hazy Center.

PLASTIC! PLASTIC! PLASTIC! Kits for aircraft - armor - ships - cars Daily 12-8; Sun 12-5. www.piperhobby.com

PIPER HOBBY

13892 Metrotech Dr.

703-803-3103

Plastic and wood model kits. Tamiya, Hasegawa, Fujimi, Ertl, Lindberg, Monogram, Revell, Artesania, Midwest. E-mail: chsthobb@verizon.net Hours: Mon, Wed, Thur 10-6, Tue, Fri 10-8, Sat 10-5:30, Sun 12:30-5

CHESTERFIELD HOBBIES

13154 Midlothian Tnpk.

804-379-9091

WASHINGTON • Seattle

Scale model cars, armor, aircraft, diecast.

All kinds of plastic and wooden ships.

Mon-Thurs 10-6, Fri & Sat 10-7, Sun 12-5.

156-F FM 1960 East

TEXAS • Irving (Dallas Area)

VIRGINIA • Midlothian (Richmond)

TEXAS • Houston

Complete full line hobby shop.

Z, N, HO, O, Lionel, and LGB. Open Mon-Fri 10-8, Sat 10-5, Sun 12-5.

12024 SW Canyon Rd.

COOLTRAINS TOYS & HOBBIES

106 W. Main Street

TENNESSEE • Murfreesboro

Large selection of aviation and military books and magazines, general hobbies.

17112 Detroit Ave.

Large Selection New & Used Kits Military books, tools, paint, airbrushes Full line hobby shop open Tuesday-Saturday. www.CoolTrains.com

713-661-7137

Large selection of plastic car and plane kits, Wooden boat kits and accessories,, Scratch builders supplies - tools - paint, Military games www.garysgamesandhobbies.com

GARY'S GAMES AND HOBBIES

8539 Greenwood Ave. N.

206-789-8891

WASHINGTON • Seattle

Plastic Model Specialists. Large selection of rare & out-of-production models.

Large selection of detail parts. Largest selection of plastic models in South Seattle! www.skywaymodel.com

WASHINGTON • Tacoma

Plastic, Wood, Diecast kits & collectibles Armor, Aircraft, Cars, Ships, Balsa Planes Huge selection Paints & Tools, OOP & Current issues. Open: Mon-Sat; closed Sundays www.ubhobbies.com

DISCOUNT MODELS

8216-C 27th St. W.

253-460-6781

CANADAÐAB • Calgary

Specializing in R/C models and accessories, helicopters, planes, cars, trucks, boats, plastic, die-cast & model rockets.

M T W F 9:30-6, Th 9:30-8 Sat. 9:30-5 www.modelland.com info@modelland.com

MODEL LAND LTD

3409A 26 Ave. SW

403-249-1661

CANADAÐON • Ottawa (Vanier) One of Canada's leading model shops.

Complete line of military & aircraft kits, decals, paints and accessories.

Free parking. On Parle Francais.

HOBBY HOUSE, LTD

80 Montreal Rd.

613-749-5245

CANADAÐON • Toronto Large selection of new & out-of-production kits. Accessories & finishing products.

Servicing the hobbies since 1986. We buy kit collections. www.wheelswingshobbies.com

WHEELS AND WINGS

1880 Danforth Ave.

416-752-0071

CANADAÐQC • Dorval

We take care of special orders.

Specializing in out of the ordinary kits, military, armour, figurines, planes, detail parts, decals, resin, photoetched conversions, books, mags. Many special discount prices.

HOBBY JUNCTION EXPRESS

1761 Cardinal

514-631-3504

SINGAPORE • Singapore

Old kits & latest releases. Good selection of unusual model kits & accessories. We stock electric trains & slot cars. Open 7 days, 1pm-8pm. In the Katong Shopping Centre. www.hobbybounties.com

HOBBY BOUNTIES & MORGAN HOBBYCRAFT

865 Mountbatten Rd #02-91/92

65-6440-1890

Call 1-888-558-1544, ext. 815 for more information.

SKYWAY MODEL SHOP

12615 Renton Ave. South

206-772-1211

Fantastic Plastic Models _____________ 63

Oldmodelkits.com _________________ 63

FineScale Modeler magazine _________ 63

Pace Enterprises ____________________ 7

FineScale Modeler on DVD__________ 66

ParaGrafix Modeling Systems _________ 7

Free Time Hobbies _________________ 51

Plane Crazy Enterprises _____________ 23

Te Advertiser Index is provided as a service to FineScale Modeler magazine readers. Te magazine is not responsible for omissions or for typographical errors in names or page numbers.

Full Circle Hobbies _________________ 63

Red Frog Hobbies __________________ 63

Gorilla Glue ______________________ 10

Roll Models_______________________ 51

Acme Hobbies ____________________ 10

HobbyLink Japan __________________ 23

Scale Auto magazine ________________ 53

Albion Alloys, Ltd. __________________ 7

Hobbymex ________________________ 63

Sprue Brothers ____________________ 31

Alpha Precision Abrasives, Inc._________ 7

Hornby America ___________________ 51

Squadron.com ______________________ 2

ARA Press________________________ 53

JAC Hobbies ______________________ 51

Strike Force Hobbies _______________ 63

Aves Studio ________________________ 7

J Bar Hobbies _____________________ 51

Tamiya America Inc.________________ 19

Bluejacket Shipcrafters ______________ 51

Loyalhanna Dockyard/Taubman ______ 51

Tom’s Modelworks _________________ 23

Colpar’s Hobbytown USA ___________ 63

M & Models ______________________ 23

TOOLS GS ______________________ 63

Dean’s Hobby Stop _________________ 63

Megahobby.com ___________________ 63

TotalNavy.com ____________________ 51

Dioramas Plus _____________________ 63

Meng Model _______________________ 9

Wargaming America _________________ 4

Doll & Hobby Shoppe ______________ 50

Micro-Mark ______________________ 31

Wingnut Wings, Ltd. _______________ 11

Dragon Models USA ____________ 22, 67

Model Rectifier Corp._______________ 68

Zoukei-Mura Inc. ___________________ 3

Evergreen Scale Models ______________ 7

Movie Classics LLC ________________ 63

We believe that our readers are as important as our advertisers. If you do not receive your merchandise or a reply from an advertiser within a reasonable period, please contact us. Provide details about what you ordered and the amount you paid. If no action is obtained after we forward your complaint to the advertiser, we will not accept further advertising from them. FineScale Modeler magazine, 21027 Crossroads Circle, Waukesha, WI 53187

December 2012

www.FineScale.com

65

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Plastic parts with enhanced detail

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Ready for immediate assembly!

1/35 T-28 Super Heavy Tank Item # DRA-6750

Newly tooled T-28 rendered w/details, can be assembled in either combat or travel mode.

The size of the model is simply overwhelming - more than 30cm long! The double track runs are made from brand new DS tracks, and the outer tracks can be detached just like the real ones should a modeler decide to opt for this confguration. The gun barrel is produced in aluminum. This was a monster of a tank, but Dragon has been careful to fll it out with sharp detail and easy-to-assemble components.

1/35 FLAKPANZER IV AUSF. G 1/35 1/4 TON ARMORED 4X4 TRUCK

"WIRBELWIND" EARLY PRODUCTION W/Zimmerit

W/BAZOOKAS - SMART KIT

Item # DRA-6565

1/35 Rommel and His Staff Item # DRA-6748

North Africa 1942 (4 Figures Set)

1/35 SD.KFZ.10 AUSF.B,

1942 PRODUCTION - SMART KIT

Item # DRA-6723

Steps Ahead...

Always!

Item # DRA-6731

Distributed by:

Dragon Models USA, Inc. 1315 John Reed Court City of Industry, CA 91745 www.dragonmodelsusa.com

Phone: 1 (626) 968-0322 Fax: 1 (626) 968-0234 E-mail: sales@dragonmodelsusa.com

Order them today!

Included in the kit is a Photo Reference Manual of the PT-109.

It is filled with a brief history as well as little known historical facts, original photographs and drawings.

Sunk by the Amagiri Restored by Italeri 1/35 scale PT-109, commanded by John F. Kennedy

The 80’ wooden hulled PT-109 will always be remembered as John Kennedy’s torpedo patrol boat. It made him a hero, and played a small role in his successful bid for the presidency. Italeri’s masterful 1/35 scale replica does his boat proud.

To assure authenticity, Italeri worked from the original Elco (Electric Boat Company) drawings. They began by carefully sculpting 300 pieces and crafting additional photo-etched parts to further intensify the exquisite detailing.

The four 21” torpedo tubes are spot on. The Oerlikon 20mm cannon, four .50 caliber, cockpit mounted machine guns

and transom mounted smoke generator have been faultlessly replicated. Unlike her sister boats, the PT-109 carried only two depth charges, and as in real life, Italeri has located one on each side of the boat. Even the 37mm anti-tank gun lashed to the boat the day before its last mission is there.

The deckhouse in the PT-109 was armored to protect against rifle bullets and splintering…Italeri has flawlessly duplicated this shield…as well as every other important facet of this historic boat.

PT-109, a shining example of Italeri’s ability to “Bring Reality to Life.”

ALso AvAILABLE

(#551302) 1/72 sundERLAnd MK.1 nEw TooLIng WWII “Flying Boat” in service with Britain’s Royal Air Force Coastal Command.