KEROSENE - LOOSE & LIBERATED BUSINESS - ISSUE ONE by KEROSENE MAGAZINE

KEROSENE LOOSE & LIBERATED BUSINESS ISSUE ONE

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O R E K E N E Editor in Chief

Writers

Illustrators

Photographers

Alana Mann

Alexandra Rix Mi’Ele Booke Alana Mann

Lindsay Bennett Mf.visualarts Salomé Ahmad Olivia Ness Camilla Cavalli Alana Mann

Luiza Vale Fran Heath Clara Brinquez Tess O’Connor Cameron Sarradet Phoebe Carnall-Ruppel Guy Cross Imaani Iris

CON ENT 06

Ball-Busting Decisions

Editors Note

Introducing: Rachel Harvey

Sobriety, A Gateway Drug

How Do I Keep My Sanity in an Unpaid Internship?

You Are Not a Fraud

Editors Picks: Cool Girl Reads

Get Going, Go Getta

Rett Madison

In Your Twenties

Olivia Tuffrey

NT TS. 41

So, you have a business idea?

Alice Pelati

The Dress Code Debate

I’m sorry, but the old me can’t come to the phone right now.

Chloe McDougall

Shelf Stacker Syndrome

Tenaj Moody

Small Business Boom

Headshot Outtakes

Inspo : Resources

Making It Up As We Go

S R O T I ED E T O N 6

we hear about female CEO’s who are W hen excelling in their careers, we often only see the reap of what has been sown. By the time they make the history books, they are already living the life that so many women believe is possible, thanks to an overwhelming decade of female empowerment. The incredible rare journeys of women who can break through that improbable glass ceiling is something to be honoured. Inspired by the generation that carries such weight for a positive female future, this issue celebrates the bold and brassy businesswomen. We look at the diverse roadmaps set out by our age of powerful females, making it possible for more of us to have a seat in the boardroom. There’s something I find so fascinating about a singular woman surrounded by suits and ties. Though this can be a slap in the face to the patriarchy, we need community and the uplifting of women more than ever. In our all-consuming age of social media and showing our highlights, we can often forget that we’re a catalyst of powerhouses who have gone through some shit. But, we all have gender inequality to thank for the admiration we have for each other. The only way out is through, right? I, myself, have ambitions that sometimes feel unimaginable after years of people-pleasing and the impossible task of proving my worth. In the words of Taylor Swift, “I’ve never been a natural, all I do is try try try”. I’ve dedicated this issue to all of my fellow try-hards, a celebration of women who are unapologetically themselves and the women taking their first steps in their careers. I hope this issue full of inspiring women will start a fire that burns brightly for a female future. Strike that match, and Kerosene will be here to add the fuel.

a n a l A ALANA MANN Editor-in-Chief

BALL-BUSTING DECISIONS GRACE HALKSWORTH FOUNDER OF BLOOM BY GRACE TELLS US THE BEST DECISIONS SHE MADE FOR HER BUSINESS @BLOOMBYGRACEUK

lllustration by Olivia Ness @olivianess_illustration

10 descisions that changed my life feature

1. Just going for it! I think a lot of people dwell and freight when starting anything, but I literally chucked myself in the deep end and went for it. 2. Not agreeing to every influencer who wanted a bag from me. I used to think if someone had followers and promoted my bags, I would automatically gain followers. Unfortunately, it does not work like that! 3. Not giving up when people copy me. When I started, I was the only bag business of my kind, and now there are countless. When it first happened, I literally wanted to quit, but now I just take it as a compliment. It’s pretty cool to see a trend of businesses that I started (even if people don’t know I started it). 4. Quitting my part-time job. This was a massive decision for me, but it is the best choice I’ve made. It means I have unlimited time to dedicate to my business, and I can work whenever I want or need to. 5. Dropping the waitlist and setting up my website. When I first started, I had a waitlist of over 900 people, and it got so overwhelming, so I had to cancel it and started up my website. A few people were pissed off, but it was the best thing to do for my mental health. 6. Sticking to my branding. There’s been a few times where I’ve debated re-branding to differentiate myself from the people who copy me. But I’ve just stuck to what I’m good at and what I love, and it’s worked. 7. Taking time away from social media. In the beginning, I used to stay up till god knows what time answering DMs and comments. But it’s so unhealthy!

INTRODUCING RACHEL HARVEY Photography Imaani Iris Artwork “I WAS NOT MADE TO BE SUBTLE” by Artist Named Nobody

M A N T S I T AR Y D O NOB 10

Rachel Harvey is a young artist on a mission to make black representation in art, mainstream and positive. Although spaces for black artists work are essential, “I believe black art should not need to exist as a small, niche category. There should be art that features black people. A lot of black art is also dehumanising. It used people as objects to tell stories about oppression and slavery as if to say that this is all we are suitable for.” Rachel creates painted portraits of black faces with no use of symbolism or background. “I want to change this image of the black community and make the viewer focus on the person, to see them as what they are - people.” Rachel sells the innovative artwork on her online shop ‘Artist Named Nobody’. “I print my work on ethically made posters, gender-neutral and size-inclusive clothes, notebooks and more. It is up to small businesses to set the standard for more giant corporations to drive sustainability, size inclusivity and diversity as the new norm.”

MED 11

GET GOING GO GETTA Words Mi’Ele Booker Illustration Camilla Cavalli

First things first, you should realise that self-empowerment and entrepreneurship work together. You should have a sense of self-empowerment in order to believe in yourself for your entrepreneur journey. So, let’s break it down.

BECOMING EMPOWERED

BECOMING ENTREPRENEURIAL

Prioritise your happiness and health. To be the empowering individual that you are, you’ll have to come to terms with the fact that you deserve the life you want to reach for. Make a list of what could need improvement in your life.

Do some soul-searching. Find out what your interests are and the reasoning for those interests, then come up with a way to share them with the world. Meet Your Match. In the previous tips related to empowerment, we discussed joining a community. Here you’ll find someone with the same interests as you, whether they’re new to entrepreneurship or an experienced entrepreneur. Join forces, share questions, and learn together.

Become your own fan. We are our own biggest critics, but we can also become our first supporters, which is ideal. It all starts with how you talk to yourself in your head. Pick up the affirmations and drop the inner hater.

Dive Deep Learn what it takes to be the entrepreneur you’re striving for. Research until you have a good idea of the process, then continue to research and learn more even when you think you’re done.

Stir up the Elixir. The empowerment elixir. This is your empowering pick-me-up, in other words, all the things that help lift you up. Gather all of those empowering songs, the fierce outfit, and get ready to hype yourself up.

Jump into the scene. Other empowering women are literally waiting for you to join the community. All you have to do is show up, show support, and be the passionate woman you are. The internet is full of groups with inspiring women. Join one or three!

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k ce to not drin e radical choi ‘th s ng (a ki ’ a ol m oh re a alc obsessed with t re ui ltu Q cu of a r in autho ly Whittaker, ol H s a by , ce ed oi in co ical ch n). It is a rad e Like a Woma to it being th g in nt gns poi si ll a ce s a en er h iff uc d m the . Really what’s obvious choice all of the other nd a ol ng alcoh ki rin d n ee w et b ss likely to ruin statistically le re a t a th s g ru d mine in Tesco. can’t get keta u y Yo e? lif ur yo n, is a gatewa humble opinio y m to in , d ty te rie ci b ex So ly you’re genuine drug to a life facet of life. y er ev to licable p p A . g in liv e b u realise you king, and yo rin d op them. st u Yo u didn’t love yo r; ne rt a p hate your them. Dump ng drunk with You loved bei actually enjoy. someone you ly them and find alise you’re on ng, and you re ur ho py p ha You stop drinki your t work to fund showing up a r new jobs so fo g in ly rt app in the cocktails. Sta t you wake up ha w y jo en n that you ca king, and your You stop drin nches morning to do. u to boozy bru yo g tin vi in entire friends stop ls. Alright, an w a cr r a b ht g could or Friday ni extreme. You s em se ul ur life. life overha ter at living yo et b e om ec b hours also just… ke away the ta st ju ’t sn oe away Drinking d king. It takes rin d d en sp wards. that you r days after fo u yo of doesn’t so much s pill, but it es itl lim e th s your Imagine fact, it lower In u. yo ll ki ncer. inevitably and breast ca se ea is d rt a me. It’s risks or he n a bad na te ot g s ha Sobriety

A lot of us starkly remember the moment we found out that alcohol was a drug. My experience of this was in school. As kids who had just started drinking, we found it quite amusing that we were technically doing drugs. Over time I’ve seen friends, characters and celebrities live through addiction or die by its sword. If quarantine has shown us anything, it’s that no one is entirely safe from the dangers of drugs. The junkie or the drunk that once seemed barely human could be a sister, a mother, a friend or yourself. An insane 40% of alcohol drinkers increased their alcohol consumption in the UK last year. This statistic is enough for me to accept that our alcohol consumption is not based on socialising. It’s not something that is designed to add to our lives either. A Guardian survey result showed that “30% of drinkers said increased alcohol consumption had worsened their mental health and 47% disclosed that their physical health had deteriorated”. It’s no secret, though it’s not a topic that gets enough airtime, alcohol is harmful. Socially, mentally and physically, alcohol is proven to cause; high blood pressure, strokes, several different types of cancer, liver disease, depression, dementia, infertility, and mother earth knows what else. It is also often responsible for; violent outbursts, missed work, feelings of disassociation, unsafe sex, financial problems, and alcohol dependency. What a bummer, right? Well, every cloud has a silver lining. In this case, that’s how many people 14

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been vilified. Specifically, we talk of alcohol addiction as a lifelong disease that we never recover from. This is, frankly, propaganda. The market is littered with fantastic books, ted talks, podcasts and articles from women who have recovered from alcohol addiction. Women who had or did not have rock bottom moments. Women who did a thirty-day challenge and never looked back or women who decided never again and stuck to it. Holly Whittaker’s Quit Like a Woman is a beautifully informative and personal look into the process of going sober as a busy, professional woman whilst removing the shame and defeat of sobriety. If you need someone to point out to you that you shouldn’t be able to quickly drink rocket fuel, then let it be her. Holly points out that you don’t need to be an ‘alcoholic’ to quit drinking alcohol. You can realise that the clever and expensive marketing that has convinced you alcohol makes you funnier, smarter, sexier or more confident is false. Anything you can do drunk, you can do sober, and it’s far more appealing. Holly Whittaker was a high flying and successful businesswoman working for a pharmaceutical company who also happened to be an alcoholic desperately trying to find control. Her story resonated with me as a relatively successful masters student with no time and one coping mechanism, drinking. Her story of private despair and lots of little rock bottoms whilst managing to seem like she was handling it

all felt so real to me, and I’m sure would to many of you. In sobriety, Holly has found happiness, community and purpose. Ripping off the bandaid means examining the sepsis in the wound beneath. She left her job and became her own boss. Holly created Temptest, an addiction recovery program designed for women and nonbinary folk that doesn’t focus on making yourself feel smaller. It focuses on putting yourself and what you want first to create a life that you don’t need to escape from by drinking alcohol. One of the most notable points I’ve come across is the idea that alcohol is a band-aid we put over the wound of an unhappy life. Still, it’s also the act of picking at the scab. Working in retail, living under constant academic stress, dissatisfied with the relationship with myself. All of these desperate unhappinesses were treated and then maintained by an unhealthy relationship with alcohol. Life is not perfect without a bottle in my hand. Feeling the full spectrum of human emotion is terrifying but so liberating. For the first time since I was fifteen years old, I am learning to trust my gut about who I am, where I want to be and what I want to do. This process has forced me to soberly find the confidence to take chances, like contacting the curator of this magazine and being able to write this article.

Any thing you can do, you can do sober. And then some. 15

Photography by Tess O’Connor - @tessmoconnor on Instagram

THE VOICE OF ‘KEROSENE’ SPEAKS ON A TWENTY-SOMETHING’S JOURNEY IN THE MUSIC INDUSTRY 16

RETT MADISON We spoke with the 24-year-old upcoming artist Rett Madison, who’s song ‘Kerosene’ inspired us so much we just had to name a magazine after it.

We need to talk about how our name is inspired by your song, Kerosene. Could you explain the meaning behind the song? That song I believe I wrote a few years ago now. It was in an era where I had not yet done enough introspection or healing for myself. I was worried that my background or the relationships I had seen growing up and the example that those relationships set for me would be the same kind of relationship I would find myself in. Because of that, I wrote the song by saying, hey, don’t expect this committed long-term thing from me. I don’t even think I’m available or capable of that. I am now in a committed relationship [laughs], and I am in consistent therapy, which I highly recommend.

Your single ‘Twenty Five’ is about romanticising your twenties and the expectations you have as a teenager. Could you explain how you feel about your twenties at the moment, three years on from the song’s release? Funny enough, I actually wrote that song when I was 20! [laughs]. I would say the ages of 20 through 22 were quite difficult years for different reasons. I thought so early on in my twenties that I didn’t have everything figured out because I was a kid by the time I got here. I needed to learn to detach my self worth from external measurements or benchmarks of success. At the time, I wasn’t meeting some goals that I had set for myself. In my personal relationships, I wasn’t falling in love with anybody. I envisioned my life to be in such a different place as an 8-year-old because fuck, 20 is so old when you’re 8! [laughs]. So I did have to work on that, to heal and believe that I am inherently worthy as a human being regardless of if I’m kicking down doors in my career path. Now that I’m 24 and will eventually be 25 a year from now, I feel that I’ve changed my perspective a little about getting to the quarter part of my life. I just feel grateful to have had some time to be in therapy and love the people around me and again have gratitude for allowing me to do what I want to do.

Success is such a personal concept. How would you personally define success? I would define success as continuously changing. I’ll reach a specific benchmark that I set for myself, and I may be really excited and fulfilled by it. But, I find myself to be a fairly ambitious person, so sometimes I feel that the benchmarks and the external measurements of success are consistently moving forward for me. Overall, I have come to a place where I now feel successful - I get to do what I love. There are people out there, no matter how small or large that number is. I get to make music for a living and share that; I consider it my career. So, from a career perspective, being able to do what I have always wanted feels successful. Obviously, specific benchmarks might change as I continue to get older. I think in the present moment being able to pursue music feels like a win to me.

What would you say is the main themes within your music that you would like people to take away with them?

Music started out to be very therapeutic for me personally, and it helped me explore more emotional vulnerabilities. It’s been a great outlet. There’s definitely some overall themes that you can find throughout my songs. I sing a lot about my queerness. I sing a lot about grief in some newer material.

“I NEEDED TO DETACH WORTH EXTE MEASUR OR BENC OF SUC 18

LEARN TO MY SELF FROM RNAL EMENTS HMARKS CESS" 19

Photography by Cameron Sarradet - @csarradet on Instagram

Overall, I hope that my songwriting style helps other people feel comfortable in their own vulnerabilities and have an outlet to feel in touch with some heavier emotions. I want people to feel totally heard, validated, seen and safe when they go into that place - my music could be a vehicle for that.

career. Authentic in terms of not compromising your morals or values as a vision for your art. I believe that it is absolutely possible for artists. Everyone is on a different path. Maybe there are people out there who have to compromise and feel that they move away from their own personal authenticity because they may feel influenced by other people. But luckily, I believe that I have been able to be authentic thus far and feel in line with that as I go forward.

You come across as a very authentic artist. What is your view on the sexualisation process that artists go through, especially in the initial stage of careers?

How do you feel about sexism and harassment within the music industry? Is it time to be more serious about its own MeToo Movement?

Personally, I’m lucky. I don’t feel that I have been forced to package my music through a specific lense because of a male gaze. I’m not attached to a label per se at this point, not that I won’t be in the future. I feel like I have been lucky to independently develop, so I don’t feel outside pressure. I have definitely experienced sexism and misogyny absolutely. As a woman, especially a queer woman in music, I could share countless anecdotes about that experience. I feel I can get on stage and say confidently, ‘God is a woman, and she fucks a woman’. I can stand proudly in my sexuality and express that from a very empowered place as a queer woman. I’m lucky to express my sexuality in some of my songs, but not to appease or please male listeners. I’m in the driver’s seat with all of that.

There are issues with sexual harassment and assault in every industry because we live in a patriarchal society. In any job, women are going to be up against misogyny Specifically, in music, I definitely think it is a significant issue. When you look at previous Grammy nominations, there’s still not much representation of women in engineering or production categories, in more behind the scenes, essential fields in the industry. In terms of MeToo, I absolutely think harassment is an issue [in music]. It’s an issue on every level in the music industry. I have heard stories of men in local music communities filling 100 seat capacity shows who have already begun to use their smaller platforms to create an inappropriate, abusive and predatory interaction with some of their fans. It’s not just massive artists in the industry that probably have skeletons in their closet. Women are up against harassment, regardless of their occupation. So I think it’s an issue, and I hope to see more of the abusive and predatory people in the music industry outed for what they are

Do you think it is possible to remain authentic as an artist? Everybody has their own journey and has to make different choices depending on who they have picked for their industry team. Again, I’m lucky that I get to have opportunities because I have kept my integrity. I have stayed honest and stayed authentic to the stories and the topics I want to speak and write about. I think it is possible to remain authentic throughout your

Are there any particular challenges that have stuck with you throughout your career so far? There has definitely been a lot of personal selfdoubt and self-esteem issues, and having to remind myself that this is what I want to do keep going. I’ve played countless gigs, starting out with two people in the crowd. We all start somewhere. I still feel that I’m at the beginning of my career, though there is a whole chapter before this present one that is still very early. Playing to empty rooms, I had to think, I’m going to keep going. This doesn’t feel great, but this is still what I want to do, and eventually, there will be more than two bodies in this room to listen to my music. That’s been a challenge, the perseverance. to listen to my music. That’s been a challenge, the perseverance. Currently, I am an independent artist, so not having as much money to put into my projects and accelerate the process of bringing

"I am inherently worthy as a human being regardless of if I'm kicking down doors in my careerpath" 21

"I don't feel that I have been forced to package my music through a specific lense because of a male gaze."

my art to completion can be challenging. It’s a long game of patience - I’ve been working on an album for three years. If I had a label, I could accelerate this process as I could pay everybody to focus on my project. Practising patience that can be challenging. You have many challenges as a musician - I’m really grateful to do it, but there are many. Do you think everyone has the same perseverance? If your goal is to sell out 100 capacity shows in your local music community, I feel that’s a very incredible and attainable goal to have. That goal will come sooner, as to someone with big ambitions to have a stadium filled with people. Many people are making incredible music with all kinds of different sized audiences that are persevering and staying in the industry. I would say I personally have massive ambitions, and I’m still holding on to them. I hope I have the perseverance to see them through. It can be an intense business, so I don’t shame anybody who needs to step away for their own health. The smaller the goal, the more attainable it is to persevere, but if it’s a big goal, then I’m sure some people do fall off because of how hard it is. Do you feel that you have learned many valuable lessons whilst paving through your twenties that you think your younger self would need to hear? Looking back, I don’t necessarily have any regrets by any means. I was doing the best with what I could at the time at my younger ages. If I could give myself any advice to the younger version of myself - or even to my younger twenties version of myself, would to be more present and value the people you love. I’m pretty affectionate. I let people know I love them, but I have been even more open to telling people I care about them and show people I love them in different ways since my mom passed when I was 21. That really changed me in so many ways. My advice would be to soak it all up, all the love that you can with the people that are really important to you, because that’s all that really matters. I’m sure that sounds cliche, but it’s true. Lastly, is there anything that you look forward to accomplishing this year? Oh wow. I’m very excited to release my debut album. I have released singles from the album, the earliest one being 2019, and I’ve been working on it since 2018. I’m so excited to say I am an artist with an album in a physical form. I’m hoping that it will be out by the summer of 2021. That is what I’m very much looking forward to this year. 22

"In any job, women are going to be up against misogyny." You can support Rett’s music on Bandcamp or stream on Spotify

How Do I Keep My Sanity In An Unpaid Internship?

Let’s be honest, we try our best to avoid not getting paid for our hard work. When an internship is required to complete your studies at University, an unpaid internship is either the only option or, dare I say, the best option. An internship is the only option or the best. Let’s talk about how to keep your sanity. Because every now and then, your brain will say, “Why am I even doing this?” Every time you’ll have to answer that question. Why did you choose this internship? Did you like the mission behind the company? Will it help you get your foot in the door for future careers? Why this internship? Hopefully, your answer reminds you of your own interests and passions. Maybe these answers will help you remember why you’re going for the career that you want. The purpose of these answers is to reignite that inspiring spark within you. It should help ignite a spark so big that it makes you think, “I have a lot to offer this company, and I want to help them.” That’s the inner work that should help prepare your sanity to get back in tack, but it’s still only part of it. The other half is the outer work, which has to do with stepping out of your head and stepping into the company. The power of verbal conversation is commonly underestimated. Emails and texts are often short and full of more requests, so they’re not all that fulfilling. Don’t forget that you’re working with people with stories. Pretend you are on the outside looking in. What questions would you have for those in the company? What will reignite that spark of interest again? Create a list of questions that go beyond “what’s your favourite thing about working here?”. Dive into asking them how they built the confidence to work there. Get to know the people in the company. Their personal stories aren’t displayed like a company’s mission statement.

Words Mi’Ele Booker Illustration Olivia Ness

So, how do you keep your sanity in an unpaid internship? Reignite that spark. 24

R U O S Y E I IN ENT W T Photography Luiza Vale / Art Direction Alana Mann 26

sh’ i f l e r ‘s rse u o y me re a m i s e o ng enti ecade t i h w t t “Your It’s a d ry single your e h s. year elf in ev lfish wit f you. s o your le. Be se aspects plore, x ib e poss d all th travel, e never an , hit, tle, and e s m h ti t lit wi a r e e k v d.” Tin n , lo u t o o l gr a e h t lo ve touch lla cami s E oko - Ky

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E R A U YO A T O N D U A R F

Rachael HArvey Profile

Impostor Syndrome: Fear of being found out. The feeling that your accomplishments are down to luck, not your talent or qualifications.

STAY IN YOUR LANE Focus on your race and how to get the best out of yourself. ACKNOWLEDGE YOUR SUCCESSES Impostor Syndrome can be a bitch. You are not pretending to be good at your job. You really are good at your job. LET GO OF PERFECTION Self-reflection and time are your best friends. Focus on the things you can change.

Words Alana Mann Illustration Salomé Ahmad @metto.z

OLIVIA TUFFREY THE TWENTY-THREE-YEAR-OLD ONE-WOMAN POWERHOUSE & FOUNDER OF MAD ABOUT DOIN', THE VOICE OF SLOW FASHION CULTURE.

Could you start by telling us about yourself and what you do? I’m Olive, twenty-three years old, and I am the Editor in Chief and founder of Mad About Doin’ magazine. Mad About Doin’ is the voice of slow fashion culture. It is a place where entrepreneurs and eco-conscious lovers are unearthed. I hope to help redefine luxury and give a platform for these creatives to be showcased. Tell us about Mad About Doin’ and your position as the founder. Where did it all begin? The publication is a physical space for the people in the sustainable fashion sphere to showcase themselves, to push for a more circular fashion world. It began back when I was at University studying in my final year. I curated a publication dedicated to the humans of Depop, Mad About Depop magazine. Since graduating (covid got in the way of a ‘real’ graduation) last year, the magazine has grown and grown, so it only felt suitable to carry it on. Thinking ahead, I changed the name so I could include other creatives in the slow fashion umbrella, and I am so glad I switched things up! Where did your passion for slow fashion and sustainability start, and why is it important to you? I would be lying if I said I have always been a conscious shopper. I used to religiously shop fast fashion before I educated myself, joined Depop and understood the dangers the colossal fast fashion industry causes to the planet and the people living on it. I was always a big fan of the reselling platform Depop, so writing out the brand and the users were easy. Slow fashion is important to me because it is a new wave in the industry that is doing good and changing the way people shop and what people deem as luxury. Luxury was once a Prada purse or a Gucci belt. Now it’s a carefully crafted made to order dress or a handpicked vintage coat that has been upcycled. How did your final year of university influence your ambitions for graduate life? I definitely have my course leader to thank for my drive and knowledge of what the industry held. So I’d say she had a big influence on what my ambitions were. It is safe to say that it hasn’t been easy finding a career styled job during the pandemic and being a recent graduate. Which is why I am so grateful I had my publication to keep me creative, busy and connected to like-minded people. Tell us about your Mentorship with Depop! How did that work? Did you learn any valuable lessons? This has been one of the most exciting opportunities yet! Myself and four other creatives worldwide were chosen to be part of their Now / Next program. This is where they hope to take young entrepreneurs from where they are now to where they want to go next with the help of mentoring and a financial grant. I’ve learnt a lot for sure. Last month we had a chat with their UK and US PR team, which was very useful.

"I DEFINE SUCCESS IN COMMUNITY AND NETWORK. I FEEL RICH IN NETWORKING."

Photography Guy Cross @g.pjc

How does a young aspiring Editor in Chief get their magazine off the ground? Honestly, I’m still trying to work this out! I still see my magazine as super small and know there is a way to go before it’s a household name or stocked in a physical shop. But, I think the best piece of advice I could give is to stay active and stay confident. Consistency is key. Staying in the loop and network your ass off! Being proud and confident in your work is crucial, too - as someone who is self-critical, it can be challenging, but you have to love what you’re putting out there for it to really work. How do you navigate income just starting out in your field? This is a tricky one. I think it’s safe to say magazines don’t make much money unless they are huge, like vogue, for example. I know a few other independent magazine owners. Their income comes from other things they sell on their sites, like clothing or merchandise, but that doesn’t really interest me! Yes, it would be amazing to make lots of money and pay the bills with my magazine. That is the dream, but I’m happy beetling along and creating this platform and community for now. What is the economics of surviving in a business that is supposedly dying? You see, this was a worry! Although we seem to live in a paperless, digital world, the indie magazine rise is happening. People want a tangible product, a coffee table asset, something to take a photo of and post it on social media. Mad About Doin’ is literally an interior piece with its glossy, premium feel, and that’s what people want. Screen time is bad for you anyway!

Do you have a team around you, or are you a one-woman show? Well, I have been a one-woman-mag from the beginning and love it; however, the work and time that goes into curating a 200 plus page magazine is a lot! This week, I went live with 3 new exciting roles to expand my team and bounce ideas of creative people interested in magazines and the slow fashion industry. I am so excited about this! Where do you think you will be in 5 years? It would be unreal to have my own Mad About Doin’ studio. Continuing to grow the publication and its community, interviewing and featuring brilliant people and just doing what I am still doing.

How would you personally define success? This is such an important to ask yourself. Some people define success in the number of followers they have, the money in their bank, the love around them. To me, right now, I define success in community and network. I feel rich in networking! I have so many incredible contacts, big and small, that are valuable to the magazine and myself. So yes, right now, what defines success to me is the creatives I am blessed to know around me. What is your best advice you could give to an aspiring entrepreneur? I feel like you can’t give any advice without sounding really cliche, but it would have to just keep pushing! Things don’t happen overnight unless you’re super lucky. Prepare to work hard and put the time in. Trying not to lose sight as to why you are doing what you’re doing too is a big one.

, Y R R O S I D I D Y M L L O R T U O S E EY ? D U O L

expense of women

eye roll illustraion

Illustration Olivia Ness @olivianess_illustration

Editors Picks: Cool Girl Reads Self-help books from women who made messy mistakes, inspiring toolkits and how to survive your twenties.

01 #Girlboss by Sophia Amoruso

The Wrong Knickers by Bryony Gordon

Little Black Book: A Toolkit for Working Women by Otegha Uwagba

Everthing I Know About Love by Dolly Alderton

Taking up Space by Chelsea Kwakye and Ore Ogunbiyi

Life Honestly by The Pool

So, you have a business idea? By Mi’Ele Booker

So, you have your business idea - now it’s time to prepare for your pitch. Your pitch is the business plan that you would present to an audience, including investors. You don’t have to be the most confident person in the world, but you do have to believe in yourself and your idea in order to sell it effectively. It’ll be hard to sell a product or service that you don’t know much about or believe in, so it’s essential to have as much information and confidence as possible.

Here are some basic questions that you should know the answer to about your business Who are you and what is the problem that you are solving? How does this problem connect to your personal story? Why should it matter to others that this problem is solved? What is your solution? Who is your target audience? How will you reach them? What is your market strategy? Who is your competition? How are you different? What and who do you need to get this idea started?

Now, let’s discuss you as the presenter. What should you wear? What should your body language say? You are the human-version of your brand. If your brand is minimalistic, you should match that. If your brand is bold, then you are too. Regardless of what style your brand is, your body language should say you know what you’re talking about and you are confident in what you bring to the table. Your mission is to persuade and win your audience over. You will be speaking to potential clients and investors, hoping to catch the attention of future collaborators. Carry yourself in a professional manner with the mindset you are here to create connections that will take your business to the next level.

A conversation with Alice Pelati: Founder of Alis 1996

A Alice Pelati is the CEO and Founder of Alis 1996, a platform showcasing emerging fashion designers and helping new talent emerge. Born in Italy, the 24-year-old fashion entrepreneur currently resides in London. Raised in a family of Italian artisans, Alice was fascinated by the world of fashion while observing her mom managing the family atelier. Already at a young age, she started making clothes and collecting fashion magazines. Alice studied and graduated in fashion design at the European Institute of Design (IED) in 2018. After winning the graduation prize for her thesis project “FLYLIGHT”, she moved to London in collaboration with Schmid Milano. Her aim was to start a new life independently and to get new influences for her creativity. Initially, Alice worked as a commercial and visual

“I would love that the idea of exclusivity, uniqueness, and richness that compels people to buy luxury could be transmitted in small business”

merchandiser. In September 2019, this budding girl boss started collaborating with UK-based photographers for editorials and decided to open her website to show her portfolio. How did you become an entrepreneur? Could you tell us a bit about yourself? I grew up in an Italian family of artisans who have continuously started businesses from scratch up to date. My mother was managing an atelier of historical costumes, and my father had a mobile phone shop back in the 90s. I have felt the fashion industry since the beginning. I started to collect fashion magazines at the age of ten and began to sew with industrial machines at twelve. At fifteen, I approached the web, creating my first fashion blog, “Alice’s fashion dream”. Later on, I graduated in fashion design. My family history taught me that building your own profession is really hard, but I guess I have it in my DNA. When I moved to London in 2018, I felt that here you can truly grow from nothing. I first started to collaborate with many photographers as a fashion stylist. Meanwhile, I was working in fashion retail as a visual merchandiser. And then, the colossal step came last 43

year during the lockdown when I founded Alis 1996, an independent platform dedicated to showcasing emerging and small fashion brands. We support slow fashion and ethical beauty. Today we have ten different designers that joined the website, but we are looking forward to expanding our network. As an entrepreneur, what is it that motivates and drives you? I seriously started to dream of building my own company when I moved to London. One day I would like to be able to work from anywhere around the world of my choice. I am very ambitious and the kind of person that needs a challenge every minute. Being on your own is the best way to be versatile and manage many departments in the company and learn everything from scratch. Are there any obstacles you came across in your journey? Yes, many of them. First of all, facing the competition. Nowadays, bars are set so high. New platforms and businesses are born every day, especially since the lockdown began, and people have been at home following their passions. When you start your own brand, you have to understand that out

"My family history taught me that building your own profession is really hard, but I guess I have it in my DNA." 44

there is full of people doing what you do and to accept the fact that there will always be someone doing it better than you. But this fact has to be a positive motivation every day to push yourself to do more. Another of the many obstacles I found at the beginning was getting to trust people. Especially in the case of my platform, it took six months before finding designers to join it. Of course, when you are not known, it is challenging to do the first steps. Could you describe your life as an entrepreneur in one word? Adventurous. Every day is a different adventure. What would you describe as the key elements to starting your own business?

Women with great talent and ideas continue to face many difficulties, especially at the beginning, as I did.

First of all, concretely define how you can propose your idea. In my case, in the beginning, I had in mind to build entire e-commerce, selling the products of small businesses physically. But it turned out to be too complicated initially, so I developed the idea to create an affiliate marketplace, also focusing on promoting the brands via interviews, articles, and editorials. You have to create a business plan to define targeting, brand promotion, goals, and everything useful for you.

What do you hope to see in the future for small businesses in the UK? I would like to see small businesses being as important as luxury brands. I know that it is a utopian dream. Still, I would love that the idea of exclusivity, uniqueness, and richness that compels people to buy luxury could be transmitted in small business because being small requires you to have the same attention to each customer as luxury fashion does. I also hope that soon the three realities of the fashion industry (luxury, small business, and fast fashion) will coexist together without interference between them. In the end, they represent three different versions and intentions of proposing fashion.

Who inspires you the most? Virgil Abloh, Florence Welch, Vittoria Ceretti, Tyler Mitchell, Celine (especially with the art direction of Phoebe Philo), Jil Sander from the 90s and many emerging designers that I collaborate with, Sissell Gustavsen, Nadja Striib and more.

As an entrepreneurial woman, did you experience any misogyny in your line of work?

Why do you think it is crucial to showcase small and ethical brands?

Fortunately, I have never experienced any episodes of misogyny towards me. Mainly because Alis1996 was born as a womenswear platform showcasing female designers. Nevertheless, I recognize the harsh measures in my line of work in which women have to navigate daily. And I believe we need to shine more light and advocate for better equality in the workplace.

I think today is more critical than ever. I believe that the fashion industry is one of the latest to join ethical and sustainable groups. For many years, we’ve had electric cars in the automotive sector, KM0 food in culinary arts, and solar panels in construction. Still, it’s just now that caring about the planet has become a way of life in fashion. This is one of the main reasons I chose this niche for my business. I always wanted to support small companies founded by young women like myself.

What are your future plans? I am looking forward to expanding the platform soon, gaining more attention from visitors and brands that want to join us. By next year I am planning to define all the aspects of it. In the more distant future, I would love to open a couple of boutiques worldwide, hosting many small businesses. I would like to build my own app, finance scholarships for fashion students, and who knows, maybe even opening my own fashion label. What is your best advice you could give to aspiring entrepreneurs? If you really want to pursue this career and have a great idea to develop, try to do it in the right place at the right time. Research, learn as much as you can, take time, prepare yourself and just do it!

"My family history taught me that building your own profession is really hard, but I guess I have it in my DNA."

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THE DRESS C Words by Alexandra Rix

The expectations and regulations surrounding work attire have been evolving since the dawn of employment. Fashion is ever-evolving, and culture is ever-evolving. What was expected of Victorians, the zeitgeists of modesty, is inevitably not what is expected in the airy office of a tech start-up. Similarly, the expected aesthetic of employees at a fashion magazine will differ considerably from that of employees in a law firm. Dress codes reflect the business, with some retail and hospitality dress codes allowing for jeans combined with a companyprovided t-shirt. All dress codes lie on the spectrum somewhere between business formal to absolute casual, but what is it that dictates where a company lies?

Google, on the contrary, has practically no discernible dress code. Why? Why does Google not seem concerned that their employees won’t take their jobs as seriously if they aren’t dressed in a shirt and tie, or that their clients will think they aren’t as serious? Why do tattoos not act as a telltale sign that someone will not fit, uniformly, into the professional ecosystem? Simply because Google relies on its success to speak for itself, it depends upon the creativity of its employees and their freedom to feel creatively liberated at work. When you’re a company worth over 200 billion dollars, with no real competition, the priority is likely to move away from wasting time policing what your employees wear and making sure that you are a competitive employer. Ensuring you get first dibs on the best and brightest to keep you at the top.

Some fast-food restaurants provide entire uniforms, including branded hair net and cap. This makes sense. Fast-food chains are uniformed eateries that pride themselves on offering identical food no matter which location you visit. Dress codes matching the quality control that their food adheres to is logical. Fashion magazines will be more inclined to require their employees to be expressive and daring because that is the company’s purpose, to trend set. The necessity of these expectations then becomes a little harder to understand when you compare the dress codes of lawyers and tech offices. Both are professional settings that selectively employ welleducated people. In both cases, employees shmoos clients, and both are multibillion-pound industries.

Google is, first and foremost, a product. And that product is a part of our everyday lives. It is arguably one of the most casually incorporated technological entities that exists. So, yes, it makes sense that the employee dress code mirrors that sentiment. It’s also essential to think about the type of people who work at Google, at all levels; young nerds. Young nerds are hardly the kind of people who will encourage people’s judgment based on how they look. Whereas DLA Piper’s CEO, Cameron Jay Rains, attended an ivy league law school and acquired his bachelor’s degree from the College of the Holy Cross in the late 70s. A quick profile comparison between Rains and the CEO of Google, Sundar Pichai, shows it is unsurprising that DLA Piper subscribes to a far more traditional and restrictive dress code.

DLA Piper, one of the leading law firms in the UK, tweeted an article about tattoo prejudice in employment. It claimed that “60% of human resources professionals reported that visible tattoos would negatively impact an applicant’s chance of being hired” and that “studies reflect negative biases against individuals with tattoos which include assumptions that they are less intelligent and attractive and more rebellious”. This article drives home the importance of not discriminating against specific groups of people when discriminating against tattoos. When pointing out that 47% of Hispanic respondents to a survey had tattoos, they took this to mean being especially careful you not only enforce a tattoo-related dress code rule upon your Hispanic employees, lest you fancy a lawsuit. DLA Piper has uncovered and addressed a bias with no intention of discussing why this bias is there or whether it has any reasonable grounding. Why is this? DLA Piper is focused on image and bows to the bias or prejudice of their clients. In the case of DLA Piper, their dress code is profound and skin deep.

So, dress codes are on a spectrum, companies have their reasons for the dress codes they implement, but should we have dress codes at all? If we abolish dress codes in office environments, do we abolish uniforms in retail and hospitality jobs? Can you have a dress code that is in no way oppressive or unfair? There’s no simple answer. In the instance of DLA Piper, I do not doubt that a sudden stripping of the dress code would impact the company’s relationship with clients. A uniform look for their employees makes sense. The entire purpose of lawyers is to be intrinsically aware of the rules and know how best to use them. Having an orderly appearing team that dresses in line with the cost of their services makes total logical sense. Google operates amongst a younger professional crowd that exists past the breakdown of such preconceptions.

CODE DEBATE

Photography @fxheath / Designer & Styling @siwar.dridi.bcu / Model @sachae_model / Makeup @mua_demal 51

Far more women and non-binary people are feeling safe and supported enough to say, “Why don’t you wear heels and a nice pencil skirt, Mr Big Man?”

The way we dress, whether or not we have ever inked or pierced our skin, or the colour of our hair indicates our IQ or our work ethic. I predict, will continue to happen and over the next five, ten, twenty years, the correlations we imagine between what people wear and how well they do their jobs will disintegrate. The bigger issue comes in when the dress code conversation focuses on the gender gap. I mean, high heels never made a woman work better, harder or faster. Julia Roberts went barefoot at Cannes to protest their dress code, and the society of Chiropodists and Podiatrists called for an end to high heels in dress codes in 2015 and 2009. Understanding the damage that unfair, gender-based dress codes can cause has come to the forefront of the debate, alongside the call against gendered dress codes that discriminate against non-binary and genderfluid people. The more we champion equality for everyone, the more the need for dress codes that accentuate femininity or masculinity, that dictate ‘appropriate’ clothing, that victimises those who are harassed for how they dress, and that discriminate against one-fifth of the UK population with tattoos is deemed unnecessary and oppressive. Whether or not this is or has ever been the intent is beyond my ability to discern. In the 2020s, forcing or even encouraging women to wear high heels in the workplace is symbolic of the decades of women being oppressed, held back and kept staring up through the glass ceiling. Heels are awful. As someone who used to own 27 pairs of stilettos and would have to get very, very drunk to wear them all night, I can happily say there is no circumstance in which an employer could convince me to wear high heels to work. They make you move slower. Your brain is preoccupied with pain. Some people already have to concede to 5 days out of thirty, and they’re hugely sexualised. Women are encouraged to be beaten to it by men who can run to the phone, leg it to the ‘once in a career’ interview, focus better through meetings, pitches, work lunches, you name it. Why on earth are women being encouraged to wear high heels if not to be sexualised in them? Unless you’re in retail or hospitality where you need to be identifiable as a staff member, dress codes are slowly and widely coming to the point of being far more trouble than they are worth. With more and more companies making the bold decision to adhere to ultra-simplified dress codes like “dress appropriately” or to forego the dress code altogether, more will inevitably follow suit. I reckon there will be a distinct lag between specific industries. Precisely, law and finances, where the presentation of a team mirrors what clients expect from them professionally, ‘they work hard, earn hard, we make a lot of money look at how expensive our grey suits that all look the same are’ kind of vibe. A generation of young people coming into powerful positions and far more women and non-binary people feeling safe and supported enough to say, “Why don’t you wear heels and a nice pencil skirt, Mr Big Man?”. The grey suits are going to have a run for their money.

HOW TO STOP GIVING A FUCK

1. Realise that it doesn’t matter, the high approval never lasts. 2. Develop the right habits for you.

3. Recognise when you are seeking for others approval. 4. Try breaking people pleasing behaviour. 5. Know your values. 6. Remember that a negative opinions is often a sign of projecting insecurities. 55

Illustration @Mf.visualarts

, Y R R O S I’M D L O E H T T U B T ’ N A C ME O T E M CO E N O H P E H T . W O N T H RIG 56

It’s midnight on a Friday, and I’m finally sitting down to write this. A week before the print deadline. To make this opening even more cliche, yes, I do have a glass of sauvignon in hand. You could say this is exactly how I dealt with my first ever heartbreak, though this time, I’m finally content with this choice of coping mechanism. Skipping over feelings and racing to the finish line of closure was the lane I tended to warm to for nine fucking months. Nine months of feeling isolated, confused, and ultimately losing my whole sense of self. I didn’t know it at the time, but I was mourning a dated version of myself, not a 5’7 narcissistic male. But, this isn’t going to be about said, small man. He has taken more than enough of my time. Did I mention nine fucking months? I will say, though, all you would have to do is listen to ‘Not Big’ by Lily Allen to know my full spectrum of emotions on that situation. Break up songs, self-help audiobooks (shoutout Dolly Alderton, Everything I Know About Love) and sinking my sorrows on a sticky dancefloor were my saving grace for the best part of 2019. I didn’t know it at the time but, I know that month of infatuation shifted my mindset for the better. Something that still feels like a crater in my life is slowly being filled with pieces of myself I never knew I had in me. It took me a while to realise that the hole had always engulfed me. It was just consistently filled with shitty men. Pun intended. I still have my bad days, sometimes weeks where I obliterate any spec of progress I’ve made so far. But, finding my own closure was the most fulfilling accomplishment. Now, I’m starting to put all of the hard lessons to good use. There are days. Days like today, I feel ridiculous for making this piece for anyone other than myself. I doubt myself, left questioning am I doing this purely for myself or with the intent to prove a point to all of the notches on my bedpost? The never-ending cycle of breaking down walls that I so highly built up is exhausting. Being 23 is fucking exhausting.

great things. Even if that’s red flags or interviewing one of my idols. That might be something to bring up in a CBT session, but I can see the beauty of it for now. I’ll continue to assume this is all a part of the inevitable abyss, I mean, the journey of a twentysomething. My first heartbreak set me up for a year of selfdiscovery, indulging in my emotions for the first time in my life. I developed resentment for my emotions. How could I feel anything other than loathing? I used them as the only excuse for my weakened relationships with friends, bad grades and a borderline alcohol issue. I finally realised that I had a lot of making up for past trauma, which only came to the surface when I was left isolated for showing an ounce of vulnerability to a man. As I said, isn’t this what your twenty-somethings are all about? Experiencing ego-crushing situations, feeling all the feelings and coming out the other side with the knowledge I will pass on to my mini-me. I know the person responsible for my informed, self-aware bitch attitude will never read this. I also know that I shouldn’t blame him for the collateral damage that took over my life after he gave me so little, to begin with. I finally feel a sense of fulfilment, something that my younger self found so desperately challenging to comprehend, no matter the effort. I can now say I’m an Editor-in-Chief. I belong to something that consists of my colourful brain. Building a network of like-minded women overrides any male validation. I may have been knocked down a few pegs, but I built myself up ten times higher.

I’ll reluctantly admit that I am, or was, a hopeless romantic. My initial infatuations were filled with love. I jumped headfirst into relationships that charged me with excitement. I was always open to feeling good things. Now, it’s like I’m left with an overriding feeling of unworthiness, any ounce of love my younger self was filled with is inevitably drained. The worst thing about it, I haven’t felt a Taylor Swift song that isn’t about dereliction in nearly 2 years. The best thing, however, is the overwhelming and somewhat amusing hypersensitivity to red flags. I’m a pro. I feel a strange sense of self-separation, an almost outof-body experience when I realise, I can accomplish

Words Alana Mann 57

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After a year-lasting pandemic and decades of making up for our environmental crisis, gen-z is getting smarter when creating their business models. Chloe Mcdougall, Founder of Magic The Label, speaks on how she stays responsible as a sustainable business and making magic in a pandemic. Could you start by telling us about yourself and your business? Hi! I’m Chloe. I’m 25 years old from a village on the outskirts of Leicestershire. My business is a slow fashion brand called Magic The Label.

confidence for a long time. But, I realised if you can’t believe in yourself, how do you expect other people to believe! As Ru Paul says, “If you can’t love yourself, how the hell are you gonna love someone else.”

Why did you start Magic The Label? Was there a specific goal in mind? I started Magic in July 2020 after returning home from living in New Zealand due to covid. Initially, when I started Magic, it began with the idea of remaking a festival coat I had made two years previous to sell to festival go-ers. As I started exploring different fabrics and designs, I created the twopiece for my first collection. As I was just starting out, I was trying to be as experimental as possible. I decided to do a monthly drop that consisted of 1-4 products available on a made to order basis. Doing this allowed me to explore different designs, styles and audiences. I have always wanted to own my own fashion label so starting it was such a big thing.

Do you have a close relationship with your consumers? How do you navigate that, and why is it important to you? I’d like to say so definitely. I dedicate an amount of time each day to respond to messages from my consumers and always send a message to doublecheck they’re happy with their order. Also, when designing new products, I like to see my consumers thoughts and opinions on them and ask what they want to see from Magic. I think it’s vital to make that time for your consumers because, without them, Magic wouldn’t even be a thing! I’m honestly so grateful for anyone who has supported my brand. I try my best to make sure people know how grateful I really am. No matter how much Magic grows, I’ve said to myself that I will always make time for my lovely customers.

How do you feel lockdown affected your sales? Was there a positive or negative change? Lockdown definitely has affected my sales. After the second lockdown was announced, people were hesitant to buy going out or festival outfits. Everyone was unsure about when they could even happen. I decided to release a unisex hoodie and t-shirt range as after doing some research, loungewear sales had rocketed. This collection did exceptionally well, but unfortunately, it got to the point that my supplier could not fulfil any more orders. Due to covid, the factories ran out of products as they did not have workers. This could’ve been avoided on my part by choosing a different supplier for the hoodie. However, I try to be as responsible and sustainable as I possibly can. I was buying products that were either organically made or recycled, and all PETA vegan approved. I didn’t want to sacrifice that level of quality just for sales, so I ended up taking them off my site. Unfortunately, only two suppliers ticked all the boxes, and both productions of the products were put on pause.

How do you make sure to stand out in the sustainability sector? I try to be as transparent as possible in everything I do with Magic. Telling people where my fabric is from and operating on a made to order basis, so my wastage is extremely low. If it’s not made to order, it’s a one of a kind reworked vintage garment. Also, I sell all my sample products or give them to my models as a thank you. I never throw any scraps away! Do you like being independent? Have you always wanted to be responsible for your income? I absolutely love it. I have always wanted to work for myself, so now that I am, I’m honestly on cloud nine all the time! Magic takes up every aspect of my life. I wake up thinking about Magic, I go to sleep thinking about Magic, and I love it. I feel grateful I am in a situation where I can do what I love every single day.

What makes aspirations into a reality? Honestly, I’d say hard work, determination and, more than anything, self-belief. The only person getting in the way of you and your goals is yourself. If you work hard enough and never doubt yourself, anything is possible. I really suffered to believe in myself and my

Where does your responsibility begin and end as a sustainable business? I think the responsibility starts with being honest with your consumer. If you’re advertising yourself as a sustainable brand, then make sure that you are. Ensure that your supplies are ethically sourced and that your brand is doing as little damage as possible. I source my fabrics from deadstock warehouses or vintage stores. No fabric I buy is adding to the horrendous impact the fashion industry has on the planet. If I am buying a new product, I ensure there is transparency in where they are from.

US T H AUG OST T HAS T HE M SO R S, YEA MAKE U O T I S LA TO REC DOING P E S ' H T , IT IME IS T IME G "IF N I . T UR .” TH ANY R T IME END YO U LOVE O U P OF O NOT S HING Y T WH Y SOME

How do you define success? I think success is a personal thing. Everyone’s goals are different, so everyone’s success story is always different. Personally, I won’t know success until I have achieved everything I want to achieve. I have a lot of goals, and when I reach one, I always set myself another. I think it will be a long journey for me personally, but as I said earlier, I love what I do, so I’m here for the long run. The best advice you could give to aspiring young business owners? Take the leap of faith and do it! It’s the best decision I ever made. Don’t be too hard on yourself. You will make mistakes, but when you make the mistakes, you will learn the most. Stick at it and work hard. At the moment, I’m trying to practice making the present-day better than the previous. I’m always ensuring that I am pushing myself to my limits day by day to achieve as much as I possibly can. If the last year has taught us anything, it’s to make the most of our time. Time is precious, so why not spend your time doing something you love. Where do you see Magic The Label going? What would you like to achieve in the next year? I see big things for Magic. The sky is the limit! I would love to create a community of magical beings. I would like to have my own studio space to operate and have a stall at a festival.

Photography Phoebe Carnall-Ruppel 61

Photography Phoebe Carnall-Ruppel

F L E SH CKER A T S DROME SYN Anyone who’s ever stacked shelves, pulled pints or dealt with customer complaints in a call centre knows firsthand how disheartening it can be to work what is known as an ‘unskilled’ job. They know there is nothing unskilled about dealing with a yelling customer without a) breaking down into tears or b) yelling right back. The biggest issue with these jobs is what it says in the title. They’re supposedly jobs for unskilled people, which is often reflected in how employees are treated regardless of how skilled they are.

I saw an article in The Guardian recently entitled ‘Graduates: don’t be afraid of a low-skilled job’. A man called Declan Clay talks about how working in unskilled jobs prepared him for the world of work, that it allowed him to secure his graduate job. Although he makes some good points; people shouldn’t belittle these jobs, being a graduate doesn’t make you too good for one and that experience in any real job is necessary if you are to go on to a graduate job, there is also an air of privilege in what he says. For a lot of people, being employable is a job in itself. Working 45 hours a week just to be able to cover your rent. Trying to do some freelance work or build up your portfolio. Buy new equipment. Apply for jobs and attend interviews, all whilst fighting off the feeling that you will forever be classed as underqualified because all you’ve ever done is retail, is exhausting and soul-crushing. Without any help, a lot of people find this impossible, no matter how qualified you are.

I’ve worked in retail for seven years. My CV is a baron wasteland of retail. I’ll also happily admit that I’m not very good at working retail, I don’t have much patience, I’m easily bored, and most of all, I have a bachelor’s degree and am halfway through a master’s degree. I absolutely feel too skilled to be treated as an unskilled payroll number. Equally, some of the people I work with are very good at their jobs. Yet, they’re treated like they couldn’t find initiative in a welllit room. The dichotomy between me and any one of these people who are good at their jobs instantly disproves the idea of an ‘unskilled’ job because they have the skills to do it well that I do not.

‘It’s reminiscent of the plaque hung in Homer Simpson’s workspace when he was unable to leave his dead-end job: “Don’t Forget: You’re Here Forever.”’ Writes Jaclyn Fabing in an article for The Journal and, she’s not wrong. All signs seem to point to a forever purgatory of refilling never filled shelves. Employment as an unskilled worker is not a fair existence, but that does not mean it’s a professional death sentence, and it definitely doesn’t mean that you should just accept that fate. There’s also not one clear cut answer as to how to get out of it because there’s minimal structure. You never know what shift pattern or what days you’ll be working more than a week in advance. It seems like organising yourself and finding opportunities is an impossible feat.

So why do so many people stay in these jobs? That might seem like quite an ignorant question on the surface, so few people have a choice. A lot of people, with degrees or without, have the skills, smarts and charm to embark on the careers of their dreams. Or at least to do something that doesn’t make them depressed, anxious and angry.

My best advice? Give your day job the worst of yourself. One of my favourite sayings, ‘minimum wage for minimum effort’, is your best friend. I believe in doing the bare minimum required to not get the sack and spending the times of day that my brainpower is most potent doing anything important to me and the life that I want. According to research, our brains are sharpest between 10 am and 2 pm, according to what scientists call our circadian rhythm. According to Healthline, the best way to keep our circadian rhythm working for us is to keep a fairly regular schedule, the enemy of the retail world. We already know that unskilled employment works against a regular schedule. But finding the best possible sleep pattern for you that accommodates your most common shifts, that only ever needs to be pushed an hour or so either way, and that will give you the “10-2” (four hours from a few after you usually wake up) slots to use at your discretion. That’s the way to override retail restlessness. This is harder or easier depending on what shift patterns you’re usually on. If you work the graveyard shift, then this might be quite the undertaking at first, but 27 days creates a habit. You deserve the best of yourself to put towards getting where you want to go. Waking up and putting your fresh mind towards building your portfolio, writing cover letters or even corresponding with potential employers and then going to your retail job and zombie-ing around is the way to go. You kind of have to accept that what you are doing right now is investing. Don’t be afraid to set boundaries, you know how much you need to work, and you don’t need to work any more. Any overtime you do might make you money, but your time is invaluable. Dedicate some time to spreadsheeting, work out all your outgoings, a little incidental extra. Prioritise surviving and thriving. Seriously, take care of yourself. You need 7-8 hours sleep a night, to eat a balanced diet, and don’t rely on caffeine to get you through the day. All of these things will feed into highquality sleep, protect your mental health and your energy levels. Cooking is also my unwind time, so try and find ways to develop doing things you need to do, which are good for you, whether that be cooking, exercising, or a creative endeavour.

Over half of the UK’s graduates are in nongraduate jobs. This, of course, is partly the fault of the job market, but I’ve spoken to co-workers, friends and internet strangers with varying levels of education, who have expressed to me a sentiment I have long felt plagued by. That their exclusively retail ridden CV makes them feel unqualified for positions with requirements that they fill. From research carried out via an Instagram poll, the vast majority of those working in retail and hospitality have passed up applying for jobs because their work experience to date is entirely retail or hospitality-based. Anyone can be affected by retail work and how one is treated as an ‘unskilled’ employee. However, in many industries, women are already at a disadvantage for any of the hundreds of harmful stereotypes that make women seem less employable. Women and nonbinary people already feel self-doubt in the workplace because of bigotry and misogyny, or the fear that their next place of work might not be as safe as the one they’re in now. It’s often overwhelming to make such a change. When you already feel underqualified because you’ve been circumstantially required to do a job that you’re overqualified for, the reasons to not strive for what you really want begin to overtake. The risk becomes even greater.

Lastly, ask yourself, what have you got to lose by sending in that CV? Words Alexandra Rix Illustration Alana Mann

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ER N DS tenaj

J MOODY

TENAJ MO 69

In Her Own Words

After surviving an abusive relationship at the age of 16, Tenaj Moody is a firm believer that you can use your struggles as your motivators. Tenaj connects individuals and communities with relevant resources by proactively reaching out to young adults and victims of abuse. She empowers young adults by providing a support network, psycho-educational workshops, and a safe space to share their stories.

being a victim. “She is a victim. Because of that, the collateral effects of incarceration impacted my mother to have employment or a steady income”. Tenaj explains how this injustice against her mother impacted her family unit. She often moved from place to place. “There was a period of our life that we spent being homeless. So, as I was trying to navigate life and trying to grow up as a teenager, I was experiencing all of these trials and at the same time trying to go to school. Being homeless, living in a shelter or living with friends.” Tenaj believes that her experiences growing up lead her to where she is today. Founder of a for-profit communitybased organisation. Light to Life is dedicated to raising awareness and educating young adults about trauma-informed care and mental health. “I didn’t grow up in your typical family. I grew up with a single mom that did the best with what she could. She is a phenomenal woman who I believe is the smartest woman I know. This woman has reliance and strength in everything that she does.” Tenaj did not grow up in a traditional mother and father household. She explained how her lack of role models impacted her ability to differentiate between a healthy and unhealthy relationship. Based on studies, a person’s experiences increase risk factors of being a victim of violence or becoming a perpetrator of violence. At the age of 16, Tenaj found

LIGHT TO LIFE MISSION. ONE

Born in Virginia and raised in Northeast Philadelphia, Tenaj lived primarily with her grandmother and mother. During her time growing up, Tenaj faced many different obstacles, which sometimes included not having the most stable household or financial income. “My mom was incarcerated eighteen times as I was growing up. She had her own tribulations throughout life. Being a victim of human trafficking led my mother down paths that ultimately led to her incarceration”. Tenaj’s mother was inevitably viewed as someone who had committed a crime, despite

oNE mission one voice FOUNDER OF LIGHT TO LIFE TENAJ MOODY TELLS ALL ON HER JOURNEY, IN HER OWN WORDS. herself in an abusive relationship that stretched over a year and a half. “People believe that domestic violence happens overnight. It doesn’t work like that. Sometimes you just never know, or you never see it coming. In the first two years of my relationship, I never knew warning signs that would inevitably lead to an abusive relationship”. She explains that warning signs of the abuse consisted of taking her phone away, telling her to change her clothes and deleting friends numbers. “He forced me to do things that I didn’t want to do. These experiences then escalated to pushing and eventually to hitting me.” Tenaj hid the bruises with makeup and made excuses for the marks on her face, blaming it on field hockey. Her abusive partner ultimately made Tenaj feel isolated. After convincing her that her own mother was against her, she had no one to turn to. “I started to lose my self-esteem, my confidence and who I was as a person. Suicidal thoughts, not eating and taking care of myself, losing a lot of weight, I stopped caring

ONE VOICE. ™

about my life. I felt that I didn’t have any control in my life because my abuser was controlling everything.” After finally having enough, Tenaj explains how she was treated as a criminal instead of the victim after a public argument. “I was filled with so much fuel and anger. I was tired of the control. I keyed his car, saying fuck this. I’m done with this shit. This was my way of taking back my power. He tackled me to the ground in broad daylight. I just remember biting and scratching him, trying to get him off of me.” In the midst of all of this, both Tenaj and her partner’s families witnessed the altercation. Whilst Tenaj tried to defend herself, her mother called the police, resulting in arresting Tenaj. Much like her mother’s previous experience, Tenaj was viewed as the aggressor. A common misjudgment made against victims of domestic violence is an outcome of secrecy and concealment. “I just remembered thinking, there is no hiding this anymore. It’s all out in the light.” Tenaj’s arrest resulted in her going to court. She was ordered to pay fines for damage to the car and was also put on probation. The only thing that she received from the legal system was a protection order, a piece of paper. “That was the result of this relationship. At that point in my life, I realised that I didn’t have my voice, I didn’t speak up for myself, I didn’t tell the judge anything that had been happening to me over three years. I didn’t have pictures or proof of any of the bruises, the marks. I had nothing.” Tenaj believes there is a blessing in every lesson. From then on, Tenaj has dedicated her life to make sure another 16-year-old, like herself, never has to experience the same thing that she went through.

"Have the motivation, have the discipline and have a positive mindset. If you're not going to do it, then who will?"

In 2014, Tenaj started Light to Life as the first funded domestic violence organisation on the Wesley College campus during her sophomore year. She was able to work with 1500 college students in the Deleware area. Tenaj partnered with University councillors to serve as a referral for students who wanted to break their silence in their own abusive relationships. “Light to Life provided a space for young people to be able to feel seen and heard, to be empowered and educated with the resources and tools they need if they are in a situation like this. If they are not in an abusive relationship, I can explain how to prevent it if it ever were to occur.” Light to Life today is now a for-profit domestic violence consulting firm. Tenaj has worked with juvenile correctional facilities, government agencies, small businesses and non-profits. She educates, empowers, and creates conversations on change to raise awareness of this silent epidemic. “Honestly, it’s been a blessing. It’s been a journey, it’s been hard, but it’s been so worth it. I’ve been able to have such an impact. What good am I doing if I cannot share what I know to help someone else?”.

Tenaj’s Best Advice “No matter what people say to you, no matter how many no’s or rejections you get, you need to be your biggest fan. You have to be the one rooting for you. At the end of the day, no one will give you that pat on the back. Sometimes, people aren’t going to say a good job or appreciate you. You have to be the one to push yourself moving forward. Have the motivation, have the discipline and have a positive mindset. If you’re not going to do it, then who will? On those days when you feel like you can’t do it or unsure if it’ll work out, remind yourself of how far you have come. Write it down. Be present with yourself and realise that you have come so far, but you have so much more to go. That one closed door is not the end. There’s another opportunity coming. Be yourself and trust the process. That’s the biggest part of the journey.”

Words by Tenaj Moody & Alana Mann

Illustration Alana Mann

The Small Business Boom

Survival of the Instagrammable Words Alexandra Rix

I have just finished a delicious panini – chicken, bacon, gooey, stringy cheese. This may seem an irrelevant and strangely personal way to start a conversation on whether or not small businesses will be able to drag themselves through the burning wreckage eventually left behind by Covid-19. The café that sold me said panini is currently an open window. You can order a variety of breakfasts, paninis or jacket potatoes to takeaway and eat elsewhere. During the earlier days of Covid, there was a time when the cafe had a booming clientele, littering the street outside under parasols, when they were benefiting from the brief Eat Out to Help Out scheme. Like many other small businesses, they have spent a long time with closed doors. Their sandwich boards tucked away, and their employees are waiting with bated breath for news about their employment.

Sadly, this is not the only establishment that has struggled, that has spent a large portion of the last year unable to open and serve. In fact, the window reopening and the sandwich boards appearing on the street once more means that they are one of the lucky ones. I have a lot of faith that those who can open up their doors eventually will make a full recovery when non-essential business rules relax. Why so sure? Because millennials like me are dedicating their money to supporting small, independent businesses over tax-dodging corporations. According to a Salesforce survey, 72% of millennials are committed to spending more at small businesses, and 62% say they spend more than they did last year. That being said, not all small businesses have suffered such severe losses at the hands of this pandemic. If you know where to look, you can find a utopia of thriving companies, hobbyists and professionals. Those who have found a foolproof way of reaching said millennials, hell-bent on keeping the independents thriving. This is a dystopia that has seen Amazon profits triple whilst people are locked in their homes is indeed quite impressive. Amazon’s success is less than surprising. Their presence in the market is very well established as a reliable retailer. Providing prime services that can get you what you need almost as quickly as a trip to a local retailer. Even I, an avid anti-amazoner found myself buying my rooibos tea with my mother’s prime account, I am somewhat ashamed to admit. Many small businesses that have been birthed into this retail wasteland do not have that same luxury. Independent companies have been tasked with the seemingly impossible need to find their footing

and get their names and logos out there. Instagram, Depop and Etsy have now entered the chat. Everyone and their mother have thought of starting their own business, in my case, my brother. He has taken the swing and started up Chakalopito (ig – chakalopito), a handmade wooden jewellery business. He has been independently creating for Christmases and birthdays for quite some years, finally taking form as a business. I recently spoke with budding businesswomen who have taken their employment into their own hands, using Instagram to find profit in the pandemic. Then I bought my coffee, chocolate, and some Arabic flatbreads from the independent shops littered around town. Victoria McCartie, the creator of SCLPTD STUDIO (IG – sclptdstudio), opened her online doors in January 2021. Selling plastic-free moulds of the female body, working from her dining table, in Aberystwyth. Victoria was inspired by wanting to “create something that celebrated women, and that could be funky and fun”. Which she has done tremendously, with her following growing steadily. Acknowledging the already saturated market of female torso candles, she cornered the market by offering a forever alternative focusing on bold patterns and colours. Endeavouring as far as personalised torsos with hand-painted tattoos and one eerily unique Ashnikko sea monster torso with tentacles for nipples. Quite literally finding a way to offer something for everyone. Victoria’s relationship with her business is slightly different from many others. She is a born businesswoman. Despite wanting her business to continue to grow, she knows that her risk is relatively low, currently working two part-time jobs. 74

Her approach to the impending end of Covid and how that may affect her business is laissez-faire, to say the least. With this question, she articulated what has allowed small companies to gather so much attention when we have all felt lonely, isolated and stuck. “I really hope that we stay slowed down but use our freedom to really connect with people. More so than we did before. I think building strong, connected relationships are what gives life meaning.” This approach to a customer base that both millennials and our grandparents hold so dear and are so dedicated to keeping alive. When so many people are trapped inside working from home, it makes us feel a part of a community. To use some of our recently liberated income to support small businesses and feel a human connection through the things that we buy. What really stands out about her engagement through Instagram is her engagement with other creatives and small business owners. It’s not just her community she is working to build. Still, she creates a cycle of support between other creative women rather than beating their sales. Now I have a tiny sage green torso with a rendition of my own tattoo on her chest to keep me company. Though, shunning giant retailers and their ever-peddling hot trends are hardly the only way consumers have found to cement our sense of community. Many service-based businesses have taken to the internet to help us through. YouTube and Instagram are rife with how-tos on cutting your own hair, DIY home improvements, and at-home workouts. Some of which have allowed people to customise their services to what their clients really want. In Edinburgh, Amy Zarzo of AZ Moves (IG – az.moves) is a fitness coach who started her online business during the first lockdown. She worked for a company but took her services online, wanting the freedom to run things her way. Finding clients during lockdown was her first big task and the first need for a creative reimagining of the business tactics that work in a world unplagued. “I couldn’t just go out and hand out flyers/business cards, or leave some in shops, or host any free outdoor workouts, etc. So, I offered a free month of online live workouts in July as a way to get people active during the lockdown and actually ended up getting a couple clients from that.” She explained in a conversation we had over every business’s saving grace, Instagram. Amy also had clients that she had previously trained that stayed with her because, well, you do anything to keep them when you get a good trainer. This pandemic has made many of us revisit our relationships with our true homes, our bodies. Amy found that during the pandemic, many of her clients had fallen into the cycle we all know too well.

Eating out of boredom, only moving from our beds to our kettles and then to our desks. People were ready to take stock of their relationships with their bodies the way many of us have done with our homes. Taking her services online meant that her clients could feel like they were taking care of themselves. Without playing the anxiety dance with going outside to work out, whilst also being able to fit exercise around their in-house routines. A balancing act that Amy, as the mother of two (adorable) toddlers, is quite familiar with. But this is only one of the ways that Amy has allowed the pandemic to teach her more about what her clients really want. With no intention to move away from working through the internet post covid, she has taken this opportunity to examine how online workouts might be exactly what her clients want and need long term, not just whilst there is no other choice. “I know my clients do enjoy working in the comfort and privacy of their own home. Gymtimidation is real for a lot of women. They aren’t comfortable in the gym on their own for several reasons.” As someone who has had her own fair share of brief flings with gyms, I can begin to imagine a number of those reasons. The current climate of violence against women is becoming a much more frequent and far louder conversation. Providing ways for women to build strength and stamina from the safety of their own homes whilst being motivated by a woman like Amy might be what we need. “I am confident in what I do. I know I’m a good PT, and I genuinely care about my clients and that shows.” Amy has found the power of Instagram just as influential in her finding clients as Victoria has in finding customers. Instagram allows creators, creatives and trainers to not only showcase their work but their personalities. Creating a profile of the person you are supporting or working with. Which, in this era of isolation, is precisely what we need. Covid-19 has been an economic battlefield. Many of the independent, local businesses we have come to know and love in our towns and neighbourhoods have fallen during it. From those ashes, however, many have risen. With the fall of many high street retailers during the pandemic, more of the market terrain is freshly ploughed and prepared for new seeds to be sown. With millennials paving the way to support local and independent businesses through the pandemic and the online marketplace thriving like never before, who knows what our bank statements will look like in a year. My guess is that Amazon will still be growing. But so will AZ Moves, SCLPTD STUDIO and Chakalopito, the many other independent businesses that gave it a shot whilst the world stood still.

work from home

T O H S D A S E E H TAK T OU Photography Clara Brinquez / Edit Alana Mann 76

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Inside Back Cover

INSPO Ladies Who Launch Having done events in Belfast, London, San Francisco, Denver, New York, Toronto, Sydney, St. Louis and Stockholm. This non-profit works to empower a global community of early-stage women entrepreneurs to build sustainable businesses.

Catalyst Catalyst is the leading non-profit membership organization working globally with businesses and professionals to build inclusive workplaces and expand opportunities for women in business.

The Female Entrepreneur Association An international group which is dedicated to inspiring and empowering women in business. It offers a host of features including a 10-minute weekly video that gives tips on succeeding in business.

Women Who Tech Women Who Tech is the non-profit organization building a cultured and inclusive economy to accelerate women tech entrepreneurs and close the funding gap.

BossBabe BossBabe has worked with 100,000+ womxn all around the world through their monthly membership, mentorship programs, coaching containers and courses, to help them make their dreams a reality.

Digital Undivided Digital Undivided leads high potential Black and Latinx women founders through the startup pipeline. Their programs include a 26-week incubator program, #ProjectDiane a research initiative focused on women of color and tech entrepreneurship and networking events.

SoGal SoGal Foundation is the largest global platform for diverse entrepreneurs and investors. Spanning 6 continents with hyper-local programming in over 50 cities, their mission is to close the diversity gap in entrepreneurship and venture capital.

Marie Forleo Marie offers tools and resources on how to drive your business!

Illustration Lindsay Bennett

I am an attention grabbing, bold & brassy woman. 86