/bzə/ noun. Circassian: Language
A journey of discovering the language of Circassian motifs
Ala’ Janbek
Fabricademy final project 2022/2023
Techworks, Amman
In 1864, after 101 years, one of the worst genocides in modern history came to an end leaving hundreds of thousands of Circassians dead or forced out of their lands. When I was a little girl, I used to write stories all the time, then I went into design and realized stories are shared through different forms of language.
We share our culture through our dances, food, music, fashion, and customs and traditions. The Circassian dress is known for its big ornamented sleeves that look like pages of stories for me. I imagine Circassian women spending months weaving their stories into gold and silver curves.
Very few documentation exists of the Circassian motifs, and even less on their meanings. I found several books showing images and techniques of embroidery but I only found one paper analyzing the possible meanings behind the motifs.
Bza, which means "language" in Circassian, is my journey of discovering the meanings of Circassian motifs. Then using this vocabulary to write the stories of our past, present, and future on three pairs of sleeves, each made using different materials and fabrication techniques.
MOTIFS
The Circassian art of sewing with gold has been forming and transforming through women's hands across the ages. But the path back to origins is the most difficult. The first written information on Circassian embroidery skills appeared in the 10th century AD. I found several books showing images of motifs and embroidery but only one paper by Teuchezh discussing the possible meanings of the motifs.
According to Teuchezh, the patterns were geometric and linear at first, then other forms started to appear. Depiction of domestic and wild animals became more abstract and schematic with time. I identified six main motifs from Teuchezh’s 13 forms, and added my own interpretations according to my readings and meetings with the local community.
TREFOIL
Trefoils and other vegetal elements are common in Circassian ornaments.
It represents a map, earth, or land.
CROSS
A symbol of sacred fire. It was also interpreted as a fireplace or a bird flying.
ZOOMORPHIC
Wild and domestic animals are found in abstract and representational forms.
A golden circle represents the sun, while a silver one represents the moon.
ANTHROPOMORPHIC
Some swirls and curves could be interpreted as anthropomorphic elements.
MATERIALS AND TECHNIQUES
COLOR THEME
A woman stands in the middle with her hands reaching to the land. The sun is shining above her head and flowers are growing below her feet. She has the fire of life burning in her soul.
Crocheted by my mom and aunt using white cotton threads for the base and cotton threads I dyed with onion skin for the motifs.
Made from modular pieces that symbolize lands and 3D printed motifs of people, this sleeve tells the storty of losing lands but still carrying the fire of life and going on. The modular pieces form rhomboid symbols that gradually disappear. On a 2-way stretch tulle fabric I printed motifs of people carrying fire using a TPU filament.
This design slowly emerged after discussions with the community about the future of Circassians. It represents the Circassian people spreading across the lands but still connected through their values. An led light shines in each motif of a person when the fire symbol is touched with a conductive chain.
On March 5, 2023, I arranged a workshop in Al Jeel Club, with the help of the cultural committee, to discuss motif meanings with the community and design ornaments that tell the story of our future. They came up with amazing designs and stories. Following are some designs I digitalized.
Nireen Yazaw shows people living through days and nights, expressed by a sun and moon following each other, while the fire of life burns in their souls.
Yara Bers made this design accompanied by a sentence: the womb of the future, although scattered, still carries blessings and blooms.
Shamel Beno took a little break from capturing the workshop to tell the story of losing the Circassian lands and people pushing through guided by our shared values.