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Island. My ferry ticket included a separate room for 10-12 people, with space for each person to pull out a futon and sleep. I took a quiet, pleasant nap.
Sheila Mulherin (Hokkaido)
Rishiri Island is a beautiful place in Hokkaido with quaint fishing towns, two ports, historical sites, and a seal pool. Mount Rishiri, among the 100 famous mountains in Japan, presents a challenging hike with a stunning view at the top. Rishiri Island is also where Japan’s first foreign English teacher, Ranald McDonald, arrived (in 1848). The island measures a little over 50 kilometres in circumference, small enough to take a daytrip ride around on a bicycle or motorbike—both of which are available and cheap to rent. I came to Rishiri Island to get a final training run in before the Lake Saroma 100km Ultramarathon, and to admire all of Rishiri’s stunning natural beauty with my own two feet. Every June, a 53-kilometre ultramarathon is held on 108
the island, and it serves as a perfect final long training run before the Lake Saroma 100km Ultramarathon—as well as a wonderful adventure in its own right. The Rishiri Island 53km features a challenging hilly course, with strong wind almost always guaranteed. It’s the right race for me, although I will be asking a lot out of my body. I also had registered for a 43-kilometre mountain run (in record high temperatures) for the week before the Rishiri Island 53km, but I decided to ignore the huge demand I’d be putting on my legs two weeks in a row. I had faith I would survive. Early on the Friday before race day, I drove more than five hours along the Sea of Okhotsk to the port in Wakkanai, where I took the mid-morning ferry to Rishiri
The ferry arrived at Oshidomari port, where hostel staff picked me up. I had settled into the hostel earlier than the other runners, who arrived on Saturday. I decided to come a day earlier to tour the island more leisurely. However, I was greeted by a powerful storm—heavy rain pelted down sideways, and the wind blew fiercely. I cinched the hood on my raincoat, walked around Oshidomari, and found a decent onsen to relax at. I learned the hostel I had booked, like the many in Japan, would only heat their bath water in the evening. Likewise, every onsen in Oshidomari only opens in the afternoon, which is more environmentally friendly. I had plans to go for a run in the morning and preferred feeling clean afterwards, however, and wanted a morning bath. Fortunately, the hostel staff were willing to turn the water heater on in the morning for me.
