CONNECT Magazine Japan #132 - December 2024

15 | How Zen Can Improve Your Life 48 | Gooey Chocolate Fudge Brownie 62 | A Guide to Japanese Resumes 81 | Hokkaido’s Nine Famous Mountains

Issue No. 132

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December 2024

Letter from the Editor Happy holidays from all of us here at CONNECT! This time of year is always exciting.

Everyone is getting ready to take in the new year, each with their own unique set of traditions. Although I’m a bit of a Grinch (and proud of it!), I'm sure I’ll cave at some point and watch a Christmas movie or two. Probably Die Hard. For many of us here in the English-speaking community in Japan, though, it can also be a lonely time.

To those of you who feel that way: I sincerely hope that the articles here make the winter a bit more manageable. I risk incurring my sister’s wrath, but I’ve dared to share her legendary Gooey Chocolate Fudge Brownie recipe here. To me, it always tastes like home. Maybe it’ll lift your spirits, too!

If you’re more the get-out-and-go travel type, you’ll definitely be interested in Travel Editor Jon Solmundson’s insight into some of the most famous mountains in Hokkaido and their unique selling points in Hokkaido's Nine Famous Mountains.

For those who are trapped inside, either because of the snow or because you’re stuck under the kotatsu, you might find it’s the perfect time to start practicing some Zen Buddhism. For that, check out Joseph Photo by Mark Christensen for AJET

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Hodgkinson’s How Zen Can Improve Your Life. A little bit of zazen might clear your mind!

To the crafty types, Úna O’Shea’s article Mizuhiki: Culture in Craft could be just the thing that inspires your next project. It could be, though, that you want to spend the winter transforming a second-hand kimono into something new after reading Making Kimono Old by Fashion Editor Sabrina Greene.

If you’re returning home for the holidays, take care and have a good trip! If you’re here in Japan, embrace the differences between here and home! They might play the same four Christmas songs on repeat, but there’s also a wealth of things to do and people with interesting stories to tell if you look for them. When you feel blue, just remember that you’re not alone.

CONNECT represents all of us expats here in Japan.

Thank you again for reading, and Lang may yer lum reek!

Mike Taylor Head Editor at CONNECT Magazine

CONNECT | Arts 7 11

Mizuhiki: Culture in Craft Art Events with TreesDraws

CONNECT | Culture 15 21

How Zen Can Improve Your Life Juzo Itami: A Satirical Savant

CONNECT | Entertainment 27 30

Behind the Swindle: An Interview with Ko Shinjo Commenting on Commentator: An Interview with Daisuke Ito from Tebasaki Games Talks News

CONNECT | Fashion 35 40

Making Kimono Old Again: East Meets West with Elise Fischer’s 1950s Flair A Prison of Love: Tattooing in Tokyo with Artist Alice Korotaeva

CONNECT | Wellness 45 48

CONNECT’s Declassified Winter Survival Guide Gooey Chocolate Fudge Brownie Recipe

CONNECT | Language 51 56

Putting the L in ALT: Teaching Japanese to International Students When Worlds Collide: Bringing Speech-Language Therapy into the Classroom

CONNECT | Careers 63

A Guide to Japanese Resumes

CONNECT | Community 72

Thai in Japan: Breaking Barriers and Making Connections

CONNECT | Travel 77 82

2:46 in Futaba Hokkaido’s Nine Famous Mountains

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Credits Content HEAD EDITOR

ASSISTANT HEAD DESIGNER

Mike Taylor ピエン. I speak Japanese like a 14-year-old girl, apparently.

No regrets.

Taylor Sanders Muki Muki (meaning muscly or buff). I get a good laugh from my coworkers when I use it. Also it was one of the first words I learned when I studied abroad in Japan!

ASSISTANT HEAD EDITOR Brooklyn Vander Wel 勘弁。Who doesn’t need a little forbearance in their life?

ADMIN ASSISTANT Dianne Yett めっちゃ (extremely) tacked onto any adjective sends my trash Japanese through the roof.

HEAD DESIGNER Renee Stinson ふわふわ! It's slang that means “fluffy” and has a lot of appropriate use cases when you are, like me, a cat lover.

SECTION EDITORS Maritza De La Peña 狐の嫁入り literally means “the fox’s wedding” in Japanese, but is used to describe a sunshower.

Kianna Shore Recently my favorite word is 夢 中, meaning crazy about or obsessed with.

Allegra McCormack 大丈夫 - the humble daijoubu.

Truly the backbone of life in Japan for those of us with limited language skills. Úna O’Shea 諦めろう (あきらめろう) - let's give up!

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Sophia Maas I’ve always loved 歩く. I’m just constantly charmed that the kanji looks like a friendly man in a jaunty hat.

Tori Bender I like 儚い, or はかない. It means fleeting or ephemeral, like cherry blossoms!

Chantal Gervais ぎりぎり. Sometimes the best things happen just in time. Not because I’m always almost late.

Sabrina Greene しょうがない. Can be both infuriating and/or liberating, depending on the context– how powerful! And great for puns! (NO GINGER) Kalista Pattison 侘び寂び or わびさび. At the beginning of my pottery journey, perfection was always the goal. This word for beauty in imperfection has transformed my artistic mindset.

This magazine contains original photos used with permission, as well as free-use images. All included photos are property of the author unless otherwise specified. If you are the owner of an image featured in this publication believed to be used without permission, please contact the Head Designer, Renee Stinson, at visualmedia. connect@ajet.net. This edition and all past editions of AJET CONNECT can be found online at https://connect.ajet. net/category/online- issues/ or on our website. Read CONNECT online and follow us on ISSUU.

Photo by Mark Christensen for AJET

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DECEMBER MEET THE TEAM QUESTION: What’s your favorite Japanese word?

Jon Solmundson There’s something fascinating to me about uniquely Japanese terms derived entirely from foreign words, like マイブーム (maibumu) or “my boom”, meaning “one’s current, likely temporary, fascination or hobby”.

Abigayle Goldstein My favorite Japanese word is 金 継ぎ (kintsugi) because I think it’s a concept that can be applied to many areas of life.

Chloe Gust I love “縁”, which is said “en” and means relationships, but also means starting a relationship or connection through chance, indirect guidance, or fate.

Zoë Vincent 自業自得. It’s such a succinct way of saying “dealing with consequences of (your) own actions.”

Joseph Hodgkinson My favourite Japanese word is 青春 (youth). It’s read as “seishun” but the kanji are a combination of “blue” and “spring”.

ASSISTANT DESIGNERS Jessica Barton 一期一会 - A once-in-alifetime encounter.

Vaughn McDougall ゴロゴロ! Used for rumbling stomachs, thunder, cat's purring, and also for generally chilling out.

Indy Metza WEB EDITORS Austin Fontenot Marco Cian Kampeki (完璧). It means “perfect”. I got to use it in the classroom a lot whenever a student got an answer right.

And also it sounds like Kampaku (関白), a fact that amuses me far more than it probably should.

COPY EDITORS

Katherine Winkleman 天涯比隣（てんがいひりん）ー it describes the feeling that someone precious and far away is still close to you.

Kaitlin Stanton ふわふわ - fluffy. No explanation required, it’s just a perfect word that sounds like how it feels.

Aidan Koch 猿も木から落ちる--Even monkeys fall from trees. We all make mistakes now and then, so there's no sense in stopping ourselves from trying our best again!

SOCIAL MEDIA Taylor Hamada やばい. It can be used in any situation and express a wide range of emotions. Running late to work? やばい. Just conquered Mt. Fuji? やばい.

Waiting in line at the immigration office? やばい.

Current read just got spicy? や ば~~~~~い!

Jedidah Walcott いちばん. It just rolls off your tongue, doesn’t it?

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PR MANAGER Jenny Chang 森林浴 or forest bathing, a direct translation. I like to think of it as becoming one with nature, being present, and (free) therapy.

USJETAA Kimberly Matsuno 別腹 (betsubara), meaning “dessert stomach.” Because we all know there is always room for dessert.

CONTRIBUTORS Tori Bender Chantal Gervais Sabrina Greene Joseph Hodgkinson Sophie McCarthy John Megow Trees Neal Úna O’Shea Maritza De La Peña Alice Polaschek Kaye Scheidler Kianna Shore Jon Solmundson Diego Sutcliffe Mike Taylor COVER PHOTO Zane Hepburn

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Arts Culture ARTS EDITOR

CULTURE EDITOR

Sophia Maas I’ve always loved 歩く. I’m just constantly charmed that the kanji looks like a friendly man in a jaunty hat.

Joseph Hodgkinson My favourite Japanese word is 青 春 (youth). It’s read as “seishun” but the kanji are a combination of “blue” and “spring”.

ARTS DESIGNER

CULTURE DESIGNER

Indy Metza

Taylor Sanders Muki Muki (meaning muscly or buff). I get a good laugh from my coworkers when I use it. Also it was one of the first words I learned when I studied abroad in Japan!

ARTS COPY EDITOR Aidan Koch 猿も木から落ちる—Even monkeys fall from trees. We all make mistakes now and then, so there's no sense in stopping ourselves from trying our best again!

Photo by Mark Christensen for AJET

CULTURE COPY EDITOR Zoë Vincent 自業自得. It’s such a succinct way of saying “dealing with consequences of (your) own actions.”

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by Úna O’Shea

Culture in Craft

MIZUHIKI

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n a small village in rural Ishikawa, sitting beside an old, unpainted wooden temple named Myojoji, there is a cosy, family-run soba restaurant. Besides serving fresh soba, this establishment also hosts Sachiko Sakamuro’s monthly mizuhiki classes.

Mizuhiki is a type of thread. It feels like wire, but it is made of durable paper that has been starched and wrapped in coloured fibres. As it holds shape well, it can be formed into knots to create a traditional Japanese craft object, which is also called mizuhiki.

The name translates to “water-pull,” as the flat line of the parallel threads weave between each other like water.

Local women gather around tables, having just finished their lunch. They eagerly pick out coloured threads, excited for today's lesson. The class is a social event, but as the students start to work on today's project, little by little the chatter fades as they concentrate on their craft.

Thought to have originated in the Azuka period of the sixth and seventh centuries, it was originally a luxury item used for offerings to the imperial court. However, it has since become a common decoration.

Mizuhiki is extremely versatile, and so the possibilities for creation are endless.

Sachiko Sakamuro demonstrating her mizuhiki technique. Courtesy of Úna O’Shea 8

Mizuhiki is extremely versatile, and so the possibilities for creation are endless. It's possible to use traditional knots to form new shapes, but, as mizuhiki are capable of holding their own shape, it's also possible to create totally original knots. In this class, participants make jewellery for themselves or to give as gifts. Each woman has an assortment of past works, which they will eagerly show off to anyone interested.

Mizuhiki is made from paper from the kozo plant, which is treated by starching and stretching to create the strong threads. Most mizuhiki is produced in Iida city in Nagano, as the kozo plant readily grows there. Nearby Ishikawa is also a popular place to find mizuhiki products. As a prefecture known for its craftwork, especially when it comes to traditional Japanese art forms, it is no surprise that mizuhiki is also popular here. That being said, mizuhiki is not nearly as famous as other Japanese crafts. Sachiko says that it is likely that everyone in Japan has seen it, but it’s unlikely that everyone knows what it is.

There is skill in the creation of these pieces, in keeping track of the numerous threads, and carefully arranging them into shape. There is also skill in choosing the best colours to fully highlight the design and convey the creator’s intentions. Each craftsperson brings their own ideas to the medium; some use traditional knots to create new designs, while others use the mizuhiki freely to create new styles.

Most commonly, it is used to decoratively tie gifts or envelopes for special occasions, such as weddings, funerals, or New Years. In the traditional uses of mizuhiki, the various knots, as well as particular colours, can all indicate particular meanings. Funeral cards will often feature downturned knots with black and white threads, while wedding cards may include a large circular knot to reflect the unity of marriage.

Left: Sachiko Sakamuro’s works.

Courtesy of Úna O’Shea 9

Recently, many traditional Japanese crafts have gained popularity, and Japanese craftspeople are revered around the world. From origami, to silk production, to ceramics, these crafts can be precious luxuries, but they can also be a part of everyday life. All art forms go through changes as people experiment, and it is this very experimentation that keeps them alive. Mizuhiki is versatile, and easily accessible, so why not try bringing your own unique perspective to this traditional craft?

Sachiko is one of many craftspeople bringing new life to mizuhiki. She started making mizuhiki around seven years ago.

After trying for the first time at a meeting for leaders of local women's groups, she immediately enjoyed the craft. In particular, she was interested by the idea of using this traditional craft to create jewellery, and she found the jewellery to be especially beautiful. However, she also thought the available mizuhiki was quite expensive. So, she decided to try it herself. She started learning from online videos and books. After gifting some of her creations to friends, she was encouraged to teach the craft and sell her creations. Now, she sells her pieces in online and local businesses, and teaches classes around Ishikawa.

Above: Kozo plant, courtesy of Zeynel Cebeci Left: Student projects from Sachiko Sakamuro’s mizuhiki accessory making class. Courtesy of Úna O’Shea

Sachiko is one of many craftspeople bringing new life to Mizuhiki. Úna O’Shea is an ALT in Ishikawa. Originally from Ireland, she has spent brief periods in non-islandcountries, but decided it wasn’t for her. When not gazing uponthe waves, she’s probably thinking about baseball batting cages.

In fact, she’s probably thinking about them while gazing upon the waves too.

Sources: WA-Style Japanese Modern Mizuhiki 10

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vents E t Trées Neal

By Trées Neal (Osaka)

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apan offers quite a lot of opportunities to artists. It seems like there is always something happening. There are so many people, and with that comes so many subcultures, communities, and events.

Aotearoa (New Zealand) is about 23 times smaller than Japan, and far away from the rest of the world. This means that, despite having some amazing art communities, New Zealand doesn’t offer as many artistic opportunities as Japan.

As someone who moved to Japan from New Zealand, this increase in art communities felt like it should correlate directly to me producing more art. However, this often isn’t the case. Since there are so many things happening, time for art can be pushed aside in favour of time for other things, like going to pop-ups, festivals, and hanging out with friends. Many artists might find, after an exciting shopping trip, that they’ve ended up buying more art supplies than they have the time to use. Other people in JET with great hobby aspirations might find themselves in similar positions.

Participating in art events can greatly increase your motivation to make more art, and can hopefully lead to making some artist friends.

These kinds of events can give you a deadline for making new art, or excite you with the opportunity to show your work to other people.

While you can, of course, go to these events just to look at other artists’ works, participating in them yourself can give you a chance to meet and bond with people on a deeper level through your art. Either way, here are some events you can participate in or visit to hopefully motivate you to create more art.

Art by Trées Neal

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o you know about zines? Zines (from the word “magazine”) are short, self-made publications, such as little booklets. Zine events in New Zealand are a big deal, but aren’t really known outside of the artsy crowd. They’re even less known by expats in Japan (not helped by how, in katakana, it’s almost identical to the word for “jeans”).

Another event, Zine Day Osaka, also featured interesting artists, but, sadly this year was the last one.

However, it was held at a really cool printing place called Retro Insatsu that continues to offer workshops and services for alternative styles of printing like RISO and screenprinting!

Screenprinting a tote bag seems extremely fun.

Zine events aren’t necessarily as big as other art events, but are just the right size for meeting other artists throughout the day and having a nice wholesome atmosphere. It might be a good idea to bring a drawing pad and some spare paper to fill in the time, and to do little doodles to give to other stallholders, or for little art trades with other artists.

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A notable zine event this year was the Osaka Zine + DIY FEST, which is next scheduled for March 2025! The event’s advertising and application info was in both English and Japanese, so it was more accessible for people not fluent in Japanese. A lot of foreigners visited the event!

Zines on display at Zine Day Osaka

oujinshi events are essentially the Artist Alley part of a Comicon-style convention, with the most famous being Comiket in Tokyo. Doujinshi literally means “same-person publication,” meaning “(self-)published works for people with the same common interest.” It usually refers to self-made manga similar to zines, but can also be used for art, accessories, novels, games, CDs, etc.

Trees Neal’s artist profile in the Kansai Comita event booklet.

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If you are interested in applying for a doujinshi event, try checking Comitia or a similar event to see what the vibe is like first.

They're usually held in a big convention hall with rows sorted by alphabet and number, but the genres aren’t always clearly separated. One

event can have some of my most favourite artists, while also featuring some art with disturbing content, so tread with caution! And remember that fanart rules are strict in Japan, at least when compared to New Zealand, so be very careful about this.

The etiquette for these events is a bit different from zine events. People use their online usernames over real names, it’s common to ask before taking a business card, and it's less common to take photos—remember to ask first. Check the event rules in advance and observe how others act. As a foreigner, you can feel a bit out of place at these events, but more and more international artists visiting Japan have started to participate in these events too!

Art by Trées Neal at Zine Day Osaka

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inoh, Osaka, has a Citizen Exhibition (shimin-ten) every year.

All you have to do to participate is apply, make some art, bring in your work on the day, then pick it up on the last day. It’s free, there is no set theme, and there are some prizes.

More than anything, it’s a way to give yourself a deadline to make

something nice and have your work displayed! If your town/city/prefecture has some sort of public gallery, chances are they have an exhibition too! It might just be hard to find out about. In Japan they say, “autumn is the season of culture” (文化の秋 bunka no aki), so these kinds of events peak September to November!

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Art by Trées Neal on display at a Citizen Exhibition

Raksul Graphic Haguruma Retro Insatsu

Osaka Zine + DIY FEST Zine Day Osaka Book Culture Club Mount Zine

Instagram and X.

Shimeken Circle.ms

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How Zen Can Improve Your Life

Joseph Hodgkinson(Hyogo)

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What is Zen? The word Zen is widely recognised in English and often associated with peace and tranquillity. But what does it really mean? Zen is a sect of Buddhism that originated in China during the Tang Dynasty (618–907 CE) and later spread to Japan, where it became known as Zen. The term itself is derived from the Sanskrit word for “meditation” (dhyana). Zen gained popularity among samurai and elites in 13thcentury Japan, inspiring various art forms, including Zen gardens, haiku, and monochrome ink paintings.

Zen Practices and Philosophies Zazen (seated meditation), a central Zen practice, involves sitting in a specific posture—often facing a wall—and concentrating on one’s breath or the present moment.

The purpose of zazen is to quiet the mind and cultivate insight into existence. Zen teaches that true understanding arises from direct experience, not through intellectual thought. As Shunryu Suzuki wrote in Zen Mind, Beginner’s Mind, “In the beginner’s mind, there are many possibilities, but in the expert’s mind, there are few.” Whether in meditation or daily activities, being fully present and mindful is essential to awakening and spiritual insight.

This mindfulness is beautifully reflected

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in the famous haiku by Matsuo Basho:

An old pond A frog jumps in— The sound of water This simple yet profound poem captures a single moment in time.

The quiet stillness, interrupted by the frog’s leap, reflects the impermanence of life and the interconnectedness of nature.

The haiku reminds us that

the ordinary can be extraordinary when we are fully present — a core teaching in Zen Buddhism. Wabi-sabi, a Japanese aesthetic and philosophical concept, is also deeply rooted in Zen Buddhism. It finds beauty in imperfection, impermanence, and incompleteness. This tradition embraces the natural cycle of growth, decay, and eventual death, mirroring life’s transient nature. Zen similarly denies dualistic thinking, asserting that distinctions like self and world, or good and evil, are illusions. All things are interconnected, forming a unified reality.

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How Zen’s Principles Can Enrich Your Life Practitioners like Jayson Vosz attest that integrating Zen into daily life fosters wellness and stability. Zen’s concept of wabi-sabi encourages us to appreciate imperfections, which in turn fosters acceptance and contentment. Life is full of challenges and regrets, but finding beauty within life’s imperfections can lead to a sense of fulfilment. toraware (unattached thought), which emphasises not being “caught” by a single thought or concept. This idea contrasts with the Western focus on “mindfulness,” which is often seen in discussions about Buddhism. For Jayson, the beauty of Zen lies in its simplicity.

Jayson, a JET Programme alumnus from Wisconsin, USA, spent two years in a Zen seminary—a period he describes as “hell” but ultimately invaluable. One of the key Zen principles he learned was

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As he suggests,

Picture a river; don’t stop it, don’t dam it up.

Instead, he explains, we should let thoughts come and go. Adopting this mindset also aligns with Zen’s non-dualistic philosophy, which can reduce stress and anxiety by helping us distance ourselves from negative experiences. Similar to Stoicism, Zen encourages people to refrain from reacting impulsively to external events.

Another cornerstone of Zen, as Jayson explains, is the concept of mu (nothingness)—represented by the character 無—which appears frequently in daily chants.

This philosophy extends to emotions: “Go ahead and feel them, but don’t let them control you,” he advises. Indifference, he suggests, is not about suppressing emotions but rather experiencing them without attachment. As a Zen saying goes, “let go or be dragged.” Embracing this mindset frees the practitioner to find peace in everyday life and the natural world, which leads to a fuller sense of the present.

Jayson recalls asking the temple head why Zen lectures were rare, to which he received the simple response: “If you want to learn about Zen, read a book. If you want to learn Zen, keep practising.” This points to Zen’s emphasis on direct experience and concrete practices like zazen and gyo, which refers to the small acts that shape daily life.

Such exercises allow practitioners to engage deeply with their lives without getting entangled in their thoughts.

Finally, simplicity is highly valued in Zen, as seen in its gardens, architecture, and zazen practice.

While certainly easier said than done, avoiding overcomplication and focusing on essentials can allow us to experience life more fully by reducing distractions, attachments, and desires.

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As Jayson points out, it’s about letting the river of thoughts and life flow naturally rather than trying to control it.

Originally from London, UK, Joseph is a second-year ALT in Hyogo Prefecture who loves exploring Japan and immersing himself in its rich culture and history.

Aside from writing, he enjoys playing guitar, sipping coffee, and retro gaming. His favourite time of year is autumn, especially Halloween.

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JUZO ITAMI: A SATIRICAL SAVANT John Megow (Hyogo)

One of Japan’s most tragic and unsung directors is the dynamic Juzo Itami. Though his career was short, spanning only thirteen years and ten movies between 1984 and his premature death in 1997, his satire remains powerful and his style profound.

Itami’s work both deeply criticizes and celebrates Japanese culture, so there are many recurring themes across his filmography. Let’s explore three of his films and consider the norms they play with.

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Supermarket Woman: Wife and Women Nobuko Miyamoto, Itami’s wife and frequent lead actress, is notable and ubiquitous throughout his work. Miyamoto’s characters are bold, reliable, and emotionally intelligent with overtly feminine characterizations, usually occupying gendered domains such as entertainment and homemaking. In Supermarket Woman, Miyamoto plays a single mother and supermarket expert named Hanako Inoue. She assists the owner of a small supermarket in chasing out a rival chain from their town with honest business practice and quality service.

There is a powerful trust in the status quo within Supermarket Woman.

The definitions of the genders are made clear: Hanako’s superpower is her feminine tenderness and passion for groceries. The satire here does not parody these gender roles and consumerism but rather the viewer’s expectations of them. If a housewife truly is a master of the home and supermarket, then we ought to be honest about what she is: the most politically, economically, and culturally powerful force in Japan.

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Woman in Witness Protection: Crime and Corruption Itami’s films frequently deal with crime and corruption. From cult assassins to racketeering yakuza, Itami’s villains are shady members of shadier institutions.

Woman in Witness Protection sees famous actress Biwako Isono as a witness to the assassination of a lawyer prosecuting a violent cult. As a result, she is placed in a witness protection program under the watchful eye of two city police officers. As the cultists continue to threaten her to stop her testimony, Biwako hardens her resolve to bring about justice at her own expense.

The plot here echoes an episode in Itami’s own life where he was placed in witness protection after an attempt on his life by the yakuza following the release of his film Minbo. In both Minbo and Woman in Witness Protection, Itami lampoons the world’s rule breakers. In his films, criminals are sniveling and pathetic in stark contrast to the typical depictions of yakuza at the time. At a time when media related to crime saw gangsters as honorable vigilantes and unorthodox Robin Hood types, Itami’s films made them the butt of

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every joke.

Lawlessness comes only from cowardice to Itami, and he ultimately paid for his beliefs with his life. After the release of Woman in Witness Protection, Itami was found dead.

A letter written on his computer explained that killing himself was the only way of exonerating himself from an alleged affair.

The death was declared a suicide. All of Itami’s family members, however, including Nobuko Miyamoto, believed the act was out of character and that foul play was involved.

Roughly ten years later, an ex-member of the yakuza admitted to killing Itami due to the rumored subject of his next film.

Tampopo: Whiplash and Humanism At times Itami’s work is childlike and sentimental; at others, it is perverse and gruesome. His films routinely cycle between tones with a ferocious abruptness. His most famous work, Tampopo, is notorious for its interludes. The story follows the titular Tampopo as an enigmatic drifter named Goro helps her restore her ramen restaurant to its former glory. Throughout the film, the camera follows background characters walking offstage, and the film substitutes its central plot for a cycle of vignettes exploring the many facets of the film’s primary preoccupation: food. The scenes vary drastically in tone, ranging from cartoonishly farcical to borderline pornographic. In these tone shifts, Itami stirs up a unique respect for human nature. Within the narrow cultural mandates of how to engage with food, we can find vast ranges of emotion. How do you feel about table manners? How about eating candy? About epicureanism or home-cooked meals? Itami uses these customs and taboos to illustrate the widest range of experiences possible.

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This use of scale is perhaps the most important Itamiism.

Throughout his films, the small moments of sincerity in his characters’ lives are used to contrast the moments of trauma, both bearing equal weight.

Tampopo concludes with the heroes saving the day, but this is a rarity in Itami’s catalog. His films often end inconclusively at the moment before climax.

Woman in Witness Protection never sees the result of the trial.

Supermarket Woman never confirms the survival of the local store. In an Itami film, the aim is not to reach the end of the story with satisfaction but rather to address each scene and element along the way with optimism. In the end, the credits roll prematurely as if to inquire, “What else could you want? They all did what they could in the face of adversity. Wasn’t that the real point all along?” Perhaps Itami would ask us to view his life through the same lens. Ignore that the hero lost; he enjoyed his victory a thousand times before his death.

John is a first-year ALT who works in rural Hyogo. His hobbies include poetry, board games, and visiting art museums. His dream is to die having lived better than he wrote.

juzoitami.jpg - Juzo Itami with his wife Nobuko Miyamoto (image from Wikipedia) supermarketwoman.jpg - Supermarket Woman (image from the Criterion Channel) womaninwitnessprotection.jpg - Woman in Witness Protection (image from the Criterion Channel) tampop.jpg - Tampopo (image from the Criterion Channel)

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Entertainment

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Sports ENTERTAINMENT EDITOR Chantal Gervais ぎりぎり. Sometimes the best things happen just in time. Not because I’m always almost late.

ENTERTAINMENT DESIGNER Indy Metza

ENTERTAINMENT COPY EDITOR Kaitlin Stanton ふわふわ - fluffy. No explanation required, it’s just a perfect word that sounds like how it feels.

Photo by Mark Christensen for AJET

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Behind An Interview with Ko Shinjo

the

Swindle 27

Mike Taylor (Ishikawa) interviewing Ko Shinjo and Charles De Wolf Translated by Tamao Taylor okyo Swindlers is a novel about a group of real-estate scammers released to critical acclaim in 2019. The book was adapted into a TV series for Netflix, which stars Go Ayano, Etsushi Toyokawa and Eiko Koike. Hot off the heels of the streaming success, CONNECT Head Editor Mike Taylor sat down with author Ko Shinjo and translator Charles De Wolf to discuss the release of the English translation, international attention, and what’s next for the series.

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Q: Congratulations on the success of the book and Netflix series. What kind of buzz have you heard from abroad?

Shinjo: Some of my friends who live in Thailand say that the Netflix series is very popular among people over there. A friend of mine, Frederick E. O. Toye, recently won an Emmy for an episode of Shogun that he directed and he said even people in Hollywood were talking about Tokyo Swindlers.

perspective. I honestly didn’t expect to see so much buzz on Netflix, so I’m surprised. I didn’t aim for [international attention], but I’m glad it happened.

Q: Are there challenges when it comes to interpreting parts of Japanese, like Goto’s Kansai dialect?

Q: Did you predict that kind of response?

Shinjo: Not at all. But I always had the feeling that both my first novel, Narrow House, and Tokyo Swindlers dealt with issues particular to Japan. So that would maybe be interesting from a foreign

like Goto, who speaks with a heavy Kansai dialect, would definitely be interesting if every nuance of the language is conveyed. I like old Japanese guys a lot.

They’re peculiar, and I’d be happy if that atmosphere could be conveyed.

Q: Are there any characters you think will resonate with a Western audience? I think Goto’s personality definitely stands out, for example.

Shinjo: I never really think about that sort of stuff but. . . a character

28

De Wolf: I worked on translating a different novel that was written in the Kyushu dialect. I really wondered what to do with the character’s speech. At first, I even considered using a Scottish dialect. I thought it would sound weird in a Southern American accent. But my British friend who helped me edit said that wasn’t good.

This time, it was the same. I tried to transfer the dialect in which Goto spoke, but my colleagues talked me out of it. So I decided to change his speaking style.

For other characters, Harrison uses polite language. Even if he’s about to kill someone, he’s polite. It’s his style.

That can’t be translated directly into English, but I try to convey it the best I can.

in Singapore. It centers “Even if he’s around a former professional soccer about to kill player who now someone, he’s struggles with debt.

Is there anything you’d polite. It’s his Q: like to say to our readers? style.”

Shinjo: Charles has done Q: We won’t spoil the end of the first book, but the second book has already been published in Japanese. What’s next?

Shinjo: Well, the sequel, Final Bets is set

a wonderful translation.

I hope you enjoy it.

There are many types of scams concerning real estate, not just the “groundhog scam” that was covered in this novel, so be careful!

Mike Taylor is a JET alumnus based in Kanazawa, Ishikawa. Originally from Scotland, he spends most of his time longing for Irn Bru, Tunnock’s tea cakes and a good breakfast with plenty of baked beans.

Left: Tokyo Swindlers Book Cover, Center: Photo of author, Ko Shinjo, Right: Photo of translator, Charles De Wolf

29

COMMENTATING COMMENTATING An interview with Daisuke Ito from ON Tebasaki Games talks news.

ON COMMENTATOR COMMENTATOR START

TT

okyo Game Show is a staple convention in not only the video game circuit, but also on a larger world stage. Alongside Japanese game companies making grand debuts and release stunning trailers, Tokyo Game Show selects 80 indie games to showcase.

The games chosen are anything but conventional.

Instead, they showcase unique and innovative ideas that are experimental and creative. This is where we find Tebasaki Games, showcasing their first game, コメンテータ, or Commentator.

Tebasaki Games is a small indie gaming company, composed of four members with Daisuke Ito sitting at the head as the founding member and creative force behind their inaugural title.

After playing The Reublica Times and Papers Please, Ito (an architect, published manga artist, Minecraft designer, and father of two) was inspired. Already a

seasoned storyteller, Ito found a uniqueness in video games that was unavailable in creating manga. “Games offer the unique option of a multi-ending system. This makes it easier to explore sensitive topics by allowing players to see various perspectives,” he said. This new platform appealed to him and facilitated his desire to expose people to a different type of “adult” game. And what is more “adult” than the news?

“Fun is first, everything else is second.”

Abov 30

C C C C

urrently available for preorder on Steam, Commentator is a visual novel game that places the player in the hot seat as a commentator for a popular news show.

During the course of the game, the player is given daily news stories in which players choose the order they will be shown.

In addition to this, you will often receive requests, such as the priority of a

certain news story, from the broadcasting network and will need to gain a positive public rating. As a commentator, the job also includes critiquing the selected news stories, which will affect the public opinion and everchanging world.

Playing Commentator quickly reveals it to be a uniquely Japanese game.

Often when people move to Japan, one thing they

notice in contrast to their home country is how news shows are presented.

“Japanese TV news has a unique culture that prioritizes emotion over accuracy.”

ve: Banner for Tebasaki Games and Commentator 31

CONTINUE

Breaking news!

IIII

n Western media, news is typically straightforward and covers topics such as current and local events in addition to shorter segments on politics, sports, and entertainment. Japanese media, however, covers topics with much broader strokes, and with a larger panel of presenters who discuss what was presented. Analyzing the differences between Western and Japanese news, Ito stated “Japanese TV news has a unique culture that prioritizes emotion over accuracy.” Another difference is commentators on a news program are not always experts in a specific field, and there is no need for them to be. Instead, they are there to represent the viewers’ feelings.

This position created an ideal platform to insert a player into. “I felt that the commentator role was perfect for bridging the ‘other side’ of the media and the ‘person side’ of the audience,” said Ito. In creating this bridge players must cross, they are also being asked to recognize different viewpoints, circumstances, and to question things.

“Recognizing different viewpoints and circumstances can spark actions and understanding in ways we might not expect.”

NEW ATTACHMENT!

W W W W

hether people should recognize these things, Ito was unsure. “. . . I believe playing the game will naturally lead players to view the media and politics from different or multiple angles.” He went on to further explain “Recognizing different viewpoints and circumstances can spark actions and understanding in ways we might not expect.”

Commentator carries a serious overtone, dealing with topics such as TV, news, and media. In the last several years, the topics of news, fake news, and media have been discussed at length and thoroughly questioned.

When asked about this in relation to Commentator, Ito explained that questioning the media encourages critical thinking, and helps people think past themselves and understand the motives that propel the information they are consuming.

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NEW ATTACHMENT!

X

NEW ATTACHMENT!

X

III NEW MESSAGE!

n doing so, people are subsequently more informed and less susceptible to being manipulated—ultimately allowing individuals to form their own perspectives rather than passively accepting narratives handed to them. “I want to encourage players to enjoy experiences from a slightly different perspective. Everyone has their own circumstances and their own unique challenges.”

X

The trial version presented at Tokyo Game Show 2024 is available to play online!

Commentator is available to add on Steam Wishlist.

At the end of it all and despite the gravity of the subject matter, Ito had a simple message to convey to the players of Commentator. He emphasized that while he defines the game as a “serious” game, “Fun is first, everything else is second.”

If you want to follow Tebasaki Games’ journey as they bring Commentator to life, follow them on social media! ・X ・WEBSITE

X

Images from left counter clockwise:

NEW ATTACHMENT!

X

Tokyo Game Show 2024 Booth Game demo beginning of daily selected news Game demo selected news story with comments Game Demo end of day 1

Chantal Chantal is the Entertainment Editor of CONNECT magazine. Shopping for stationary and planners brings her great pleasure, despite abandoning said planners after two weeks. You can often find her trying out a new strategy at the UFO catchers.

33

Fashion Wellness

&

FASHION EDITOR

WELLNESS EDITOR

Sabrina Greene しょうがない. Can be both infuriating and/or liberating, depending on the context– how powerful! And great for puns! (NO GINGER)

Chloe Gust I love “縁”, which is said “en” and means relationships, but also means starting a relationship or connection through chance, indirect guidance, or fate.

FASHION DESIGNER

WELLNESS DESIGNER

Taylor Sanders Muki Muki (meaning muscly or buff). I get a good laugh from my coworkers when I use it. Also it was one of the first words I learned when I studied abroad in Japan!

Vaughn McDougall ゴロゴロ! Used for rumbling stomachs, thunder, cat's purring, and also for generally chilling out.

WELLNESS COPY EDITOR Zoë Vincent 自業自得. It’s such a succinct way of saying “dealing with consequences of (your) own actions.”

FASHION COPY EDITOR Katherine Winkleman 天涯比隣（てんがいひりん）ー it describes the feeling that someone precious and far away is still close to you.

Photo by Mark Christensen for AJET

34

Making Kimono Old Again: East Meets West with Elise Fischer’s 1950s Flair Sabrina Greene (Chiba Prefecture)

35

What would you do with an old kimono? Maybe it has rips and stains from all the ceremonies and festivals it’s seen. Or maybe you don’t have any occasion to use it, so it sits gathering dust at the back of your closet.

Some might throw it away or donate it, but such unwanted garments are like gold to seamstress and designer Elise Fischer.

It all started when her kimono teacher in the U.S. gave her a pile of old pieces. “I decided to take them apart with a seam ripper and then reuse the fabric in making dresses, pants, jackets—anything that suited my fancy.” And her fancy has a vintage flair: inspired by ‘50s skirts and dresses she inherited from her grandmother, she creates unique, culturally hybrid garments that now comprise her wardrobe.

In her Chiba apartment, Elise lays the pieces she’s made onto her bed to examine them. There’s a black, flapper-esque shift dress with opalescent embroidery at the skirt, a two-piece pencil skirt suit made of a heavy pink silk, and a flowy matching set with Art Nouveau sensibilities made from a watery robin’s egg silk. Matching vintage jewelry, thrifted and gifted, lies atop her dresser. With all these stylistic elements combined, the atmosphere she cultivates is captivating.

Elise is not alone in upcycling vintage kimono. Often made from silk, wool, and other fine materials, kimono are easy to repurpose into the small stuffed animals, coin purses, and hair clips found in many Tokyo souvenir shops. Brands like Relier81: https://relier81. com/ and Tokyo Kimono Shoes: https:// tokyokimonoshoes.com/ also fashion them into footwear. Other designers like Far East Fabric https:// fareastfabric.com/ and Re:MONO: https://www. remono-antwerp.com/english transform them into contemporary fashion items. (1) 36

While these designers focus on bringing traditional kimono into a contemporary context, Elise sees a different opportunity. “We’re so used to fabric that conforms to the body rather than fabric that creates the body,” she says.

Rather than follow changing body trends—like the waifish 1990s heroin chic or the 2010s curvy Kardashian hips—Elise prioritizes elements that give vintage styles their distinctive silhouettes, like shoulder pads and corsets.

But where does one find old, unused kimono? Elise prefers secondhand shops like Second Street and Book Off. “Some of the staff told me they love the kimono section, but no one buys them.

They were going to be thrown out at the end of the week.” She also frequents the fabric markets in Nippori, a Tokyo neighborhood.

But her favorite way to source kimono is from her community in rural Chiba. “Just last night, a woman I know in her late 60s gave me her mother’s tomesode (short-sleeved kimono) and said, ‘if you don’t take it I’m going to throw it out.’” The opportunity to give new life to objects bound for the landfill is especially meaningful to Elise. “Would you rather pollute the environment and let it rot away, or would you rather see it sparkling and shining on you, your daughters, and your sons?”

She plans to make a scarf from the tomesode to give back to her friend as a memento of her mother.

“I want to use vintage fashion in my creations to remind us that we don’t have to alter our bodies to look fashionable or beautiful. Our bodies are already beautiful, and we can extend that beauty by using silhouette and traditional tailoring techniques.”

Kimono lend themselves well to this purpose, as they augment the body in a similar way to vintage Western fashions. Padding and obi, the waist sash, are added to give their wearers a tube shape. “I wanted to honor kimono in that way,” says Elise.

37

The kimono often need some TLC before they’re ready to be transformed.

They can be faded and sun-bleached, stained, holey, or even moldy. To spruce them up, Elise removes the linings and gives each piece a thorough wash. Then, like a doctor at a hospital, she chooses the best treatment for each one: a dye job, or perhaps mending techniques from the early 1900s. At this point, Elise considers how much fabric she has to work with.

“The fabric decides the style, rather than the other way around,” she says.

Beyond the sentimental and environmental benefits of upcycling, Elise’s vintage Western kimono garments also serve as a historical cross-cultural bridge.

“Garment restructuring dates back thousands of years,” she explains. “I want to preserve the memory of women, seamstresses, and tailors who have come before me.” This includes her greatgrandmother, who was also a talented seamstress. Although Elise was raised in the U.S., she remains connected to her French heritage and draws inspiration from it.

“It’s a challenge, but it suits my needs. I believe that true creativity is born of constraint, and I’m constantly learning new techniques to suit the material I’m working with.”

38

Japan and France have famously had a long love affair, particularly in the arts—French Impressionism is rife with Japanese influence, so much that a whole movement was named after it, Japonisme.

French aesthetics have long been popular in Japan, too—for example, the classic ‘70s manga Rose of Versailles remains present in the cultural zeitgeist today. In university, Elise studied European fashion designers like Madeleine Vionnet and Elsa Schiaparelli, who drew from kimono silhouettes in their own designs. “I feel like I’m carrying that torch of mutual love,” says Elise.

Elise’s passion for fashion is lifelong, and she hopes to turn design into a full-time career. Whether in Japan or elsewhere, she doesn’t know, but inspiration abounds at every turn. Her next project is a 1920s-style suit made with fabrics she sourced in Tokyo. “I’m fond of the fashion appreciation here,” she says. “And I’m excited to continue connecting with fashion and sewing enthusiasts, wherever they may be.”

Sabrina Greene is the fashion editor at CONNECT. She lives in Chiba Prefecture. She loves vintage and thrifting and is excited to see the sustainable fashion movement gaining ground in Japan and abroad.

1) Time-Out Tokyo: https://www.timeout.com/tokyo/ shopping/best-kimono-souvenirs-in-tokyo

39

A Prison of Love

Tattooing in Tokyo with Artist Alice Korotaeva Sabrina Greene (Chiba Prefecture) What’s your passion?

How far would you go to follow it? Tattoo artists in Japan have long grappled with this very question. Amidst legal restrictions and societal pressures, their efforts have led to surprising outcomes.

Like many tattoo parlors in Tokyo, Yokohama’s Fanatic Tattoo Studio is hidden away on a nondescript street.

Located on the 4th floor and only accessible via a narrow elevator or camouflaged set of stairs, the entrance is easy to miss. However, the studio itself is bright and atmospheric, complete with white lights, black pleather couches, and a stack of tattoo magazines in the entryway. **This article is designed using Alice Korotaeva’s artwork; all of it is her work except the caged heart.

40

While Tokyo-area tattoo parlors may be secretive, Japan’s disdain for tattoos certainly isn’t. “Before I started, I actually thought, well, maybe being a tattoo artist in Japan won’t work,” admits Alice Korotaeva, one of Fanatic Tattoo’s resident artists. Indeed, a quick Google search yields scores of articles warning inked travelers to cover up. Long associated with criminals and gang activity, tattooing without a medical license was even illegal in Japan until 2020.¹

Even so, Japan’s relationship with tattooing isn’t as straightforward as travel websites and news articles suggest.

Irezumi, or traditional Japanese tattooing, has

been a prevalent practice for centuries. It was first associated with criminality in the 5th century, when tattoos were used as a form of punishment.

41

It was also a popular way to rebel against restrictive Confucian values in the Edo period. Irezumi was banned outright between 1872 and 1948, when national leaders worried tattoos looked uncivilized to Western powers, and it was during this time they became associated with the yakuza, or Japanese mafia.² Meanwhile, mainstream Japanese stigma around tattooing also negatively impacted the tattoo culture of indigenous groups like the Ainu and Ryukyuan peoples.³

“ Irezumi

“Irezumi is crazy beautiful” says Alice.

Though her personal style is characterized by delicate lines and gothic imagery, like snakes and skulls which are more popular in the European tattoo scene, her passion for Japanese-style tattoos is obvious. These designs feature muted reds and blues, and also use ukiyo-e imagery that includes demons, dragons, koi fish, and human figures. “When I see the final pieces, like full body, sleeves, chest, or back pieces, I just think it’s criminal to create a stigma about this sort of tattoo. It’s art,” she says. “It’s literally art.”

is crazy beautiful ”

“It’s literally art. ”

Artists and clients alike know the price they must pay to ink and be inked. Tattooed people are denied entry into public baths, gyms, and beaches, and hindered in their job prospects.

Particularly before the 2020 legalization of non-medical tattooing, they were even subject to police harassment. ¹Despite this, “A lot of people are open-minded about [tattoos],” Alice reports.

These days, there are even mainstream tattoo conventions, including an annual one in Tokyo Bay. “More people ask me for big designs, and surprisingly, they’re not foreigners. Japanese people are asking too,” says Alice. Before, clients would stick with smaller designs that are easier to hide under a t-shirt sleeve or a bandage, in accordance with longstanding office workplace rules.

42

Despite the slowly changing attitudes on tattoos, Alice explains that they still aren’t fully accepted. “Unfortunately, some people are trapped in a prison of their love [for tattoos].” However, it’s possible these very restrictions and taboos have caused a passionate and vibrant tattoo subculture to blossom in Japan. Artists and tattoo enthusiasts are so dedicated to their art form that they’re willing to risk social exclusion to practice it.

Alice wholeheartedly agrees. “The moment I started to put my art into ink, something clicked. Tattooing is something I will never give up, even when it’s very, very hard.” After giving birth to her child last year, she rushed back to the studio before even two months had passed. “Tattooing is such an intimate thing. When somebody allows me to not only touch them but to give them something they will carry with them forever, it means a lot.”

43

“I think the environment will continue to improve, but it’s going to be slow. It starts from the head: until you change your thinking, nothing much else will change.”

In the future, Alice hopes to see tattoos appreciated for the valuable art form they are. “I think the environment will continue to improve, but it’s going to be slow. It starts from the head: until you change your thinking, nothing much else will change.”

1) VICE Media - i-D: https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=YA4sVJiS_vU 2) Fordham University: https://japanesevisualculture. ace.fordham.edu/exhibits/show/irezumi_tradition_and_ criminal/irezumi_introduction 3) Nikkei Asia: https://asia.nikkei.com/Editor-s-Picks/Tea-Leaves/Japan-s-cool-tattooculture-reflects-changing-values#selection-2891.0-2891.7 Sabrina Greene is the fashion editor at CONNECT. She lives in Chiba Prefecture with a kombucha SCOBY named Pip. She does not have any tattoos, but she finds them inspiring and looks forward to getting one as soon as she completes her list of tattoo- friendly onsen.

44

CONNECT’s Declassified Winter Survival Guide J

apan’s winter months can be a Personal heaters, kotatsu, and challenging time, especially for heated blankets or rugs are also newcomers. How you prepare great options to use with space for it can decide whether you will heaters. see a winter wonderland or an uninhabitable tundra. With these However, always make sure they tips, you too can feel are turned off before ready to brave the leaving the house, and The most blizzard and emerge never fall asleep under important aspects a winter pro. (despite how of a winter home them comfy and cozy they are warmth, water, are). Extended use First, let’s talk about and food. home. You can can lead to minor increase your burns or even fires if home’s insulation by left unattended. putting bubble or plastic wrap on your windows. This creates an The best way to ensure that you additional air barrier, reducing the have water is to leave your tap amount of heat loss. running. Leaving the water running makes it less likely to The easiest way to warm your freeze, and it relieves pressure house is by using space heaters. from the pipes, reducing the risk There are two main types with that they will burst. their own pros and cons: electric and propane.

Propane

Electric Quiet

Heats up instantly

No propane smell Room doesn't require venting to remove CO2 No fuel 45

Lower cost Can heat through a power outage

As for food, it is important to be prepared for the event that supermarkets become unreachable or do not receive their normal deliveries due to heavy snowfall.

The key is not to overcorrect your turn. Do your best to remain calm, and steer the car where you want to go, rather than overcorrect, which can cause you to spin out.

In case you are unable to leave your house for an extended period of time, you will want to have at least a two-week supply of food and water on-hand.

To mitigate the risk of slides, change into your snow tires ASAP (you should have already done this). You can do this yourself, or go to an auto shop. Be sure to book an appointment prior to going, because they are often very busy.

Canned, ready-to-eat foods are best for these kinds of emergency kits. A few liters of water are also a must, in case the running tap method fails and your pipes freeze.

Before you’re ready to hit the road, make sure that you have all of these essentials in your car:

If you do spin out, make sure to steer into the turn.

Now that your home is warm, it is time to consider your car. Parts of Japan can get a lot of snow, so you need to take the right precautions for winter driving. The first and often forgotten piece of advice is: drive carefully!

Car Essentials; • Shovel • Road flares • Blankets days) • Food (for a few • Water (2 liters) • Portable toilet atteries b d n a t h g li h s la F • • Multi tool • Jumper cables • First aid kit

Go slow and don’t suddenly stop or turn. Sliding can happen when you least expect it, so it's best to be prepared.

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With rubber boots, you can make up for any lack of warmth by layering socks or liners.

One final tip for car care is to leave your wipers standing up overnight so they do not freeze to the windshield.

Taller boots are helpful, as sometimes you will be trudging through deep snow.

With your home and car sorted, all that’s left is to get the right clothes!

Layering is so important for many reasons: good coats are expensive or hard to find, plus you never know when the inside of a car or building will get too hot, thus the ability to shed some layers to stay comfortable is invaluable.

The mantra to remember is that layers are your friends.

Waterproofing your shoes and clothes is a must. It is common to see large puddles on sidewalks and streets, so you will see many locals wearing rubber, kneehigh boots from the hardware store to stay dry.

It is very easy to forget that snow is wet, and it will soak your pants and gloves.

One common underlayer used in Japan is Uniqlo’s HEATTECH line of undershirts and leggings. They have varying levels of insulation and provide a decent amount of warmth while not feeling bulky.

While not an exhaustive list, hopefully these tips will be helpful.

It takes some getting used to, but eventually, you can master the elements and make the most out of your winter!

Snow boots are a MUST. Grip is one of the most important factors in finding a good pair of boots.

They love it so much that they make sure to recommend Fukui as a tourist destination any chance they get.

When they are not in the classroom, Diego can often be found playing video games, singing, or taking photos.

Diego Sutcliffe was born in Guadalajara, Jalisco, Mexico and raised in Phoenix, Arizona. They studied theatre and Japanese at Arizona State University, and have been living in Fukui, Japan for two and a half years.

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Gooey Chocolate Fudge Brownie Beat the winter blues with this decadent dessert Mike Taylor (Ishikawa)

I

blatantly stole this recipe from my sister, who I used to pester to make this brownie for every single special occasion. Even now, it’s expected that she’ll make a batch of brownies for our birthdays.

For the brownie batter:

If you’ve had brownies here in Japan, they tend to be quite dense and cakey. A more gooey centre is much more to my taste, so hopefully you’ll like it too!

• • • • •

2 Eggs 250g Caster Sugar 100g Butter 3 tbsp Cocoa Powder 100g Self-Raising Flour

For the fudge icing: • • • •

48

50g Butter 1 tbsp Milk 100g Icing Sugar 2 tbsp Cocoa Powder

Making the brownie itself is really simple.

Recipe 1. Beat the eggs and the caster sugar together until they become light and fluffy.

5. Pour mixture into a pre-lined baking tray and bake in a preheated oven or toaster oven at 180 °C (356 °F) for 40 to 45 minutes.

You’ll know they’re ready when there are a few air bubbles.

6. When finished, let rest until room temperature.

2. Melt the butter in a pan and then remove it from the heat.

3. Add the cocoa powder, then pour all of that into the egg mixture.

4. Fold in the flour. This is for combining two mixtures of different consistencies until they become one. Underfolded mixture will stick to the pan, while over-folded will sink when it’s cooked.

Icing 1. Melt the butter in the milk.

2. Stir in both the icing sugar and cocoa powder.

3. Spread over the cooled brownie. If the brownie is hot, it will become a glaze rather than icing.

4. Cut into squares and serve with vanilla ice cream.

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While the brownie cools, prepare your fudge icing.

Language Careers

&

LANGUAGE EDITOR

CAREERS EDITOR

Kalista Pattison 侘び寂び or わびさび. At the beginning of my pottery journey, perfection was always the goal.

This word for beauty in imperfection has transformed my artistic mindset and now I create art much more freely.

Kimberly Matsuno 別腹 (betsubara), meaning “dessert stomach.” Because we all know there is always room for dessert.

CAREERS DESIGNER Taylor Sanders Muki Muki (meaning muscly or buff). I get a good laugh from my coworkers when I use it. Also it was one of the first words I learned when I studied abroad in Japan!

LANGUAGE DESIGNER Jessica Barton 一期一会—A once-in-a-lifetime encounter.

CAREERS COPY EDITOR LANGUAGE COPY EDITOR

Katherine Winkleman 天涯比隣（てんがいひりん）—it describes the feeling that someone precious and far away is still close to you.

Aidan Koch 猿も木から落ちる—Even monkeys fall from trees. We all makemistakes now and then, so there's no sense in stopping ourselves from trying our best again!

Photo by Mark Christensen for AJET

50

Putting the Kianna Shore

“L”

(Gunma)

in ALT

It’s a given that ALTs in Japan from English-speaking countries are expected to teach English. Yet “English” is nowhere to be found in the term ALT. The L just stands for “Language” and for good reason: it’s often glossed over, but many ALTs are asked to not only teach English but also Japanese.

51

There are many cases where overseas students experience the Japanese education system for the first time late in life: their parents might have moved to Japan for work or are themselves diaspora Japanese returning home. Many of these students don’t know Japanese, and schools often don’t have systems in place to provide adequate support.

This can be frustrating for not only the child, but also challenging for their peers and teachers. Of course, some Japanese people think these students will be fine with their tablets and “Google-sensei.”

However, when factoring in older students, tech-avoidant teachers, and entrance exams, this could not be further from the truth. Teachers are also usually too busy to assist the new student, so the responsibility of helping them learn Japanese becomes a duty of the ALT, who may only know a bit of Japanese themselves.

“I often have to deal with parents new to the country and their young children,” writes Sabrina, an elementary school ALT. “While I only studied Japanese for two years before moving to Japan, I am the easiest access point for these parents and the school. Oftentimes the school staff seem overwhelmed by the families of non-Japanese students and turn to me for help even if [the families’] native language isn’t English.”

52

“I can help teach hiragana and

katakana

and

then

we

start with the easy kanji,” Sabrina explains. “If they are

young

Japanese

enough, quickly.

they I

will

taught

be

one

able

to

student

pick

for

up

their

entire third year and now as a fourth grader they have, for the most part, fully integrated with their peers.”

03

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On the flip side, older students might experience more trouble trying to keep up as entrance exams approach.

Fortunately, students who arrive in junior high school have different entrance exam standards than those who are in Japan from elementary school, but it’s still difficult to cram 10 years of academic Japanese curriculum into only a handful of years.

“It is a lot harder because my international student doesn’t receive any support in the classroom,” says Adam, an ALT at a junior high school. “I can pull her out of class once or twice a week, but she’ll spend all social studies class or science class or Japanese class with no idea of what’s going on since she’s not allowed to use her tablet to translate.”

Likewise, Adam mentions the challenges don’t stop there. “We’re going through Genki 1 right now. Progress is slow because English is not my student’s native language, so sometimes I have to teach her the meaning of words in English first and then Japanese. It doesn’t help that Genki 1 is targeted towards university students, but it’s the only textbook that I have available to me.”

Sabrina agrees about the difficulty of having a native English speaker teach a student who is not. “The biggest hurdle usually is figuring out how to teach Japanese from English.” Like Adam, she has had many moments where she “realized I was going to have to explain the meaning of a word or phrase in English before we even begin to use it in Japanese.”

54

n a Korea Shore is a n n ia K third-y iter and r w n a ic Amer a, Japan in Gunm d e s a b J ET author o als o the is a n n Kia XUS , KYO NE O T : R E RUNN a lu m nwriting e e r c S MFA CT. W h e CONNE f o r o it ed o r fa n g y w r it in g s u b t o n ks, Kian rite b o o h e r fav o stray iending fr e b d n fou st b o r the b e fo g n ti n hu

For the “L” in Lucky

For you lucky ALTs who may find yourselves in this position, you are not alone! Here are some resources and advice to get started.

ALTs

It can sometimes be difficult for students to access school equipment, so digital resources for language learners such as Wanikani and Anki are not guaranteed. However, YouTube is a great free resource for ALTs who lack confidence in Japanese, especially if they can find videos teaching Japanese in a student’s native language. For students who are stronger at Japanese, NHK News Easy could be a good resource as well.

Online, students can also use the Japan Foundation, Irodori, and Erin’s Challenge. One of the benefits of Irodori is that the textbooks are online and available in a variety of languages from English to Chinese, Korean, Portuguese, Nepalese, and more.

Additionally, don’t be afraid to see what Japanese workbooks and textbooks are like for Japanese children. It might be cheaper and more accessible to find easy books targeted towards Japanese children or Japanese people learning English. Your library might be able to use its funds to purchase these types of books as well.

For those who signed up as an assistant English teacher, teaching Japanese in a country full of native speakers might come as a big surprise. year Sabrina concludes that ultimately, “I try my best to give [my students] the n. tools to figure it out. I also try my best to give them a safe space to ask E D A L B f o questions since they don’t have another teacher or friend to explain , a UCLA what is happening around the school.” Teaching Japanese as an ALT is na, and not an elegant or perfect solution, but these ALTs do their best with e n s h e’s 05 what they have.

ver g ir li n g o be nna can nd y cats a wn. oba in to

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When Words Collide: Bringing Speech-Language Therapy into the Classroom Part 1: Laying the Foundation

When you hear your students say something like, “There’s a hire in the hallway!” or “I went for a rong walk,” what do you think is the best response? Maybe you’d try to correct them every time they make a mistake and reply, “No, it’s fire. Repeat after me, fire.” However, a Speech Language Therapist (SLT) might say, “Oh no, where’s the fire? I hope my work isn’t on fire, I don’t want the fire to burn my things!”

Can you spot the difference?

SLTs and English teachers cover a lot of the same material, but their approaches can look quite different. Teachers often give direct feedback, while SLTs are more subtle. After working as both an SLT and an ALT, it’s clear that there’s a lot we can learn from each other.

Alice Polaschek (Kyoto)

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Unlocking Communication for Everyone

How many times in a day do you have to use or understand language? If you sent a text, listened to a podcast, or used an ATM, you used language today! SLTs break down communication barriers and help make everyday communication like this easier for their clients. They assess, diagnose, and treat things such as speech, language, swallowing, voice, and cognitivecommunication disorders (like dementia) in adults. An amazing thing about speech therapy is the range of settings you can work in—medical, educational, and community settings ranging from babies to seniors. For example, within the New Zealand education system, SLTs are key in helping students overcome communication challenges to thrive in school.

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Language is a huge, fascinating part of the SLT’s work. It can be divided into sections like grammar, vocabulary, social communication rules, and storytelling skills. A child with a language disorder might have trouble understanding the finer grammatical details of a sentence or forget common words and talk around them.

Outside of SLT, people call speech “pronunciation”: the process where we make individual vowel (ah, eh, ee, or, oo, and more) and consonant sounds (p,b, f, v, sh, s, etc) in words, speech rate, stress, and intonation. It’s all about clarity! For a child with a speech delay, it might be difficult to understand and replace some sounds with easier ones, while a child with a speech disorder might use the seemingly random sound “ch” instead of most consonants.

Communication is the holistic lens that SLTs apply to their work, where they assess how speech, language, and other communication methods contribute to getting a message across. A child might know ten words, but be expressive through gestures, sounds, and facial expressions. This child is an effective communicator, despite having difficulties in one area. Conversely, another child might be able to tell elaborate stories, but the way they muddle their speech sounds means they struggle to be understood. For them, clarity is a challenge in their communication.

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SPEECH THERAPY IS ALREADY IN YOUR CLASSROOM! In the speech room and the classroom, we try to make complicated ideas comprehensible and fun to practise! When you teach grammar, are you talking about past participles, to be verbs, plurals, and subordinate clauses for the whole lesson? However, there are other methods too. Games, activities, and skits are all common in speech therapy. Saying “chips” and “ships” fifty times sounds boring, but you are a child’s favorite teacher when you have them say “chips” five times while moving up spaces on the Snakes and Ladders game board.

It’s no exaggeration to say SLTs and English teachers use heaps of the same linguistic theories in their work! Working on speech sounds and teaching pronunciation requires knowledge of the same mechanics, and if you’ve ever contrasted two similar words with minimal pairs (two words that vary by only a single sound), you’re using the bread and butter of speech therapy for young children.

You may also already be using the optimal input hypothesis. Everything you say should be easy to understand, interesting, and repeated to enrich the English classroom. Language therapy for preschoolers does the same thing and uses these ideas to fill a child’s home and preschool with language usable in real life.

DIFFERENT ROLES, COMMON GOALS Although they use similar methods and aim for communication, SLTs and teachers work with different populations. Teachers help students acquire a second language, while SLTs work with their clients’ first language. Speech therapy is unique to each individual and generally focuses on just a few areas. As a teacher, you usually cover every aspect of speech and language in your curriculum and teach large groups.

BUILD YOUR COMMUNICATION PLAN! Interested in how to implement speech therapy methods in your classes? Here are some goals and strategies below.

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GOAL: HELP STUDENTS SPEAK ENGLISH

STRATEGIES: When practising pronunciation, have students look at how your lips, tongue, and teeth move together. Describe the location of your tongue, or show pictures. When presenting words for students to practise, exaggerate the pronunciation so that mouth movements are clearer.

Give specific feedback for hard sounds. Mention which speech sounds you’re noticing and let them know it’s clear.

When they don’t get it, you can remind them of where to put their tongue, and how to shape their lips.

Don’t give corrections to everything all the time! This is overwhelming. Instead, recast: repeat the word they used with the tricky sound back to them, slowly and carefully, but use correct pronunciation. Repeat this in natural contexts up to twelve times (a word of warning: more than five times in rapid succession starts to feel unnatural).

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GOAL: HELP STUDENTS BETTER UNDERSTAND SPOKEN ENGLISH

STRATEGIES: Use shorter phrases and repeat keywords. Keep your sentences grammatically correct, but keep in mind what’s appropriate for your students and structure the language you use to match their level.

When you introduce new words, give plentiful examples and details about the word. If you’re introducing a noun: show some of the different actions that it can do or can be done to it, and talk about its features and things it’s related to.

Include gestures and pictures to support what you’re saying.

Allow students to use information other than the words you’re saying out loud!

You may already be doing things similar to these techniques, while others you might have to actively implement. Pick one or two to have a go at, and keep improving the classroom experience!

Alice Polaschek was an ALT in Miyazu, Kyoto. She spent her year in Japan finding new favorite foods and walking along Northern Kyoto beaches. She returned to her hometown, Wellington, New Zealand, and job as a speech-language therapist in August 2024. When she isn’t working, she is probably knitting, reading, attending pilates classes, or trying to recreate her favorite Japanese foods with Western ingredients.

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A GUIDE TO JAPANESE RESUMES Kimberly Matsuno (Niigata) Navigating the Japanese job market, especially as a foreign professional, requires an understanding of the specific expectations and nuances of Japan’s employment culture.

Thankfully, CLAIR annually holds the Career Vision Conference to provide future career guidance to all JET Programme participants and alumni. The January 2024 Career Vision Conference was led by Mariko Inoue, a nationally certified Career Consultant and Adjunct Researcher at Waseda University.

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She served as a career counselor at the Tokyo Metropolitan Government’s career support center and offers consultation services for companies employing international staff.

This article covers the best practices and considerations to create a competitive Japanese resume according to Mariko’s advice to 2024 Career Vision attendees.

Understanding the Structure of Japanese Resumes It’s important to understand that there are two types of resumes used by job seekers in Japan—the general resume, rirekisho, and the detailed work history document, shokumu-keirekisho. These two documents go hand-in-hand and you may be required to provide one or both depending on the job you are applying to.

There is no set format, so you can use any format you think will best strengthen your application; however, the document should be no more than two A4 sheets of paper.

Resume Tips for Job Hunting in Japan

Rirekisho (履歴書) The rirekisho is a general resume that provides essential personal information and a brief overview of your academic and professional background. Japanese employers expect this document to follow a particular format, reflecting both accuracy and concision.

Accuracy and Clarity In Japan, clarity and brevity are valued. Use clear language and avoid exaggeration. Japanese employers are known for rigorous resume screenings, so ensure that dates, titles, and achievements are precise.

Shokumu-keirekisho (職務経歴書) Unlike the general rirekisho, the shokumu-keirekisho provides a detailed account of your career history, focusing on achievements and skills relevant to the role. This document is critical for mid-career professionals, as it highlights expertise and practical experience.

Here, applicants can showcase specific accomplishments and contributions in previous roles.

Consistency in Formatting Adhere to traditional Japanese resume templates and avoid mixing Western and Japanese date formats. Ensure that the resume flows logically, with educational history followed by work experience.

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Self-Presentation and Professional Image

Write a Strong Statement of Intent Japanese companies highly value a clear and well-crafted jikoshoukai (self-introduction) and a shibou doukisho (statement of intent). These sections showcase your commitment and how well you align with the company’s vision and values. To make these sections impactful, use the following guidelines:

A clean, professional photo is a must for Japanese resumes, contributing significantly to the first impression. Include proper relevant achievements tailored to the position you’re applying for. The shokumu-keirekisho should demonstrate not only your professional growth but also specific skills that align with Japanese employers’ expectations. Unlike the more rigid rirekisho, this document allows more flexibility in formatting, though brevity and relevance remain key.

Be Concise and Purposeful: Explain why you are interested in the specific position and company, and demonstrate your understanding of the company’s goals.

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Highlight Your Strengths: Use concrete examples to illustrate your skills and experiences. Show how these strengths will enable you to contribute meaningfully to the organization.

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Integrate Cultural Sensitivity: Express an understanding of Japanese work culture, and emphasize traits valued in Japan.

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Proofreading and Double-Checking Details Accuracy in details, from dates to contact information, is crucial. Avoid inconsistencies between the English and Japanese versions of your resume.

Spelling and formatting errors are taken seriously in Japan, so meticulous proofreading is essential.

Adapting for Both Paper and Digital Submissions While digital submissions are common, some traditional companies may still request physical copies of resumes. Prepare high-quality print versions, following guidelines for paper resumes, such as attaching a photo and using A4 paper with professional presentation.

Continuous Improvement The job market in Japan is evolving, so it’s wise to periodically update your resume to reflect the latest skills and achievements.

Participation in Japanese language courses, obtaining additional certifications, and developing an understanding of new trends can enhance your competitiveness.

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This Career Vision Conference provides applicants with advanced knowledge of the Japanese market and a deeper understanding in crafting a resume that aligns with Japanese cultural and professional expectations. Current and former JET Program participants can check out the Career Support Page: https://jetprogramme.org/en/careersupport/ of the JET Program website for further information and upcoming events.

Step-by-Step Guide to Formatting the Rirekisho

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1

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Date: The resume’s submission date is required at the top of the document.

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Furigana: If this section is written in katakana, spell your name in katakana.

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Photo: A professional photo on a white background is mandatory. Applicants typically dress in business attire for this photo.

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3

2 6

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Name: Write in kanji, katakana, or English letters.

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Physical Address: Include your whole address from prefecture to apartment number.

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Contact Address: If this is the same as above, write 同 上 (same as above).

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Educational Background: Education should be listed starting from high school, noting the official names of institutions, their locations, and the relevant department. Institutions abroad can be written in English.

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8

Work Experience: Write the year you joined the company followed by the year you left the company. Be sure not to mix Western and Japanese dating styles. Only formal job roles are listed.

You do not have to mention part-time jobs or internships.

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Licenses and Certifications: In Japan, licenses and certifications carry significant weight, especially if they are relevant to the industry. List them chronologically, prioritizing those that align with the role.

Write names in their official format without abbreviations.

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10 12 12

Additional Comments: In general, you can say something along the lines of “I would like to work as a (position title)” or “I am going to follow the directions of the company.”

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Spousal Support Obligations: Indicate whether financial support for the spouse is required by circling 有 (yes) or 無 (no).

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Statement of Intent/Self Introduction: This is a brief paragraph stating why you’re interested in the role and how you can contribute to the company.

Describe why you are applying to this specific company, your strengths and how you can contribute to the company. This is the only section in which you can showcase your passion and personality, so avoid being too general.

Kimberly was an ALT in Niigata from 2019-2022, during which time she contributed to CONNECT Magazine as both a writer and a section editor. She is excited to continue contributing to CONNECT and to assist in fostering relations between current JETs and the JET alumni community.

Photo by Unsplash Photo by Unsplash Photo by Sora Shimazaki

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Community

&Travel COMMUNITY EDITOR

TRAVEL EDITOR

Tori Bender I like 儚い, or はかない. It means fleeting or ephemeral, like cherry blossoms!

Jon Solmundson There’s something fascinating to me about uniquely Japanese terms derived entirely from foreign words, like マイブーム (maibumu) or “my boom”, meaning “one’s current, likely temporary, fascination or hobby”.

COMMUNITY DESIGNER Vaughn McDougall ゴロゴロ! Used for rumbling stomachs, thunder, cat's purring, and also for generally chilling out.

TRAVEL DESIGNER Jessica Barton 一期一会—A once-in-a-lifetime encounter.

COMMUNITY COPY EDITOR Aidan Koch猿も木から落ちる— Even monkeys fall from trees. We all make mistakes now and then, so there's no sense in stopping ourselves from trying our best again!

Photo by Mark Christensen for AJET

TRAVEL COPY EDITOR Kaitlin Stanton ふわふわ—fluffy. No explanation required, it’s just a perfect word that sounds like how it feels.

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Thai in Japan Breaking Barriers and Making Connections

J

apan is becoming an increasingly popular destination to travel and to live. The continuous popularity of video applications like YouTube and TikTok has contributed to a rise in Japan- based content and an interest in Japanese culture globally. With a quick search, you can find numerous YouTube videos interviewing foreign residents in Japan about their experiences.

Amongst these, however, it is rare to hear from minority groups in Japan outside of Englishspeaking communities on English video platforms.

The number of Thai residents in Japan in particular reached 59,271 in June 2023, making them one of the largest minority groups in Japan¹.

While many foreign residents from English-speaking countries get their start in Japan by teaching English, this route is uncommon for Thai immigrants.

So how exactly do the experiences of Thai residents in Japan differ from their Western counterparts?

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New Skills and Old Traditions Todsapon Kaenthip was born and raised in Bangkok, Thailand, where he graduated from Bangkok University School of Digital Media and Cinematic Arts.

He traveled to Japan with family on several occasions, and developed an interest in Japanese business and marketing, eventually landing a job at a company in rural Hyogo Prefecture.

Before starting work, he had language hurdles to overcome.

“I started studying Japanese in Thailand and then went to a Japanese language school in Osaka. I studied for half a year, and after that started working in [Hyogo]. So the reason I first came was for work.”

He moved from Bangkok—a vibrant, bustling city full of life and harboring over 380,000 restaurants—to a small village nestled in the mountains of central Hyogo brought Todsapon many new challenges.

“I think my cooking skills were [a challenge I overcame] because when I came here I had to cook my dinner by myself. In my town, there were no restaurants.

If I went to the grocery store I could get bento or onigiri, but I can't eat that every day, so I learned from YouTube. And now my part-time job is cooking. In Thailand I never cooked,” he says with a laugh. “Even if my parents asked me to cook, I always said no.”

Todsapon has been able to experience several aspects of Japanese life, from a language school to a traditional Japanese company and now taking college preparatory courses while working part-time at a hotel restaurant in Osaka.

The village relies on one small train station, which Todsapon sometimes used to visit Himeji or Osaka on weekends.

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Centara Grand Hotel began operations in Thailand before expanding to Japan and other countries. Aside from a job, the hotel has provided Todsapon with small opportunities to stay connected to Thai culture while in Japan.“If the Thai UN is coming [to Osaka], they will hold some special events at the hotel,” he explains.

The hotel also occasionally holds small events for holidays like Thai New Year’s, also known as Songkran, which takes place in April.

“At Thai New Year, we have something where we splash water and then go to our parents’ house.”

This tradition represents cleansing and good fortune for the Buddhist New Year.

“We try to keep the traditions because every year people forget the way to celebrate—going back to our parents' homes. In the hotel it's okay, but it's different—it's not a real [celebration] so we just have a small event at the hotel for one day.

But in Thailand we celebrate for maybe 5 days or longer.”

Todsapon’s community, however, extends beyond the hotel. “First I have the Thai community, and my friends are really extroverted, so they bring me to meet new people.

For example, my friend runs a cafe, so they [introduce me] to other business owners and I make new friends a lot.

From my job before, I have some Chinese friends who play badminton with me. So I think it depends on the person. If you are an extrovert like me it's so easy to make new friends.”

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The famous scenery of Himeji Castle in Hyogo differs from that of Osaka or Bangkok.

Coffee, Cake, and Conversation The cafe owner and friend of Todsapon is none other than Woramate Matrot, who co-owns Wolf Coffee Patisserie in the quiet and retro neighborhood of Nakazakicho, an area known for its stylish cafes and small art galleries just a hop away from Osaka Station.

Woramate and his colleague, Sae Kataoka, opened the patisserie in the summer of 2023. They serve a wide range of beautifully crafted sweets and drinks, and the theme and aesthetic of the cafe are inspired by the full moon.

Woramate moved from Bangkok to Japan in 2019. “My parents both studied abroad in Japan, so from that I sort of had an interest [in Japan].”

Like Todsapon, Woramate started his time in Japan with language school before eventually attending a professional training college (or senmon gakkou) to become a patissier. Before being admitted, he had to pass the N2 level of the Japanese Language Proficiency Test.

Aside from sweets, Woramate and Sae make a variety of refreshing coffee and teabased drinks. For the adventurous, there is also an authentic Thai tea— something difficult to find in Japan.

“Basically, my friends and I bring the tea from Thailand.

There isn’t really any in Japan, and the [brand of Thai tea] at some Thai restaurants here isn’t too great.”

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Though hidden away in a small and lush alley, the patisserie attracts tourists and residents alike, who stop by for a sit-in upstairs or a quick coffee at the quaint table in front of the shop.

Todsapon doesn’t plan to compromise on his goals either.

“Right now my goal is to go to graduate school. I want to study for an MBA in marketing at Kwansei Gakuin University in “Actually, there are a lot of Hyogo, and then take those skills customers from Australia,” Woramate explains. “We have quite back to Thailand.” a lot of foreign travelers visiting the cafe.” Regarding his personal experience meeting people and making new friends in Japan Woramate adds, “A lot of my friends are mostly from Taiwan and China though. I don’t go to bars often, but I’ve met a lot of people through traveling and talking in hotels or homestays. But lately, I meet people who come to the shop and make friends that way sometimes.”

Both Todsapon and Woramate have overcome various challenges carving their own paths in Japan. Their stories aren’t over yet, though.

“I’m just happy I’m able to do the things I want to do with this cafe,” says Woramate.

“I’m happy I can practice making coffee every day, and if there are new sweets I want to make, I can make them.”

Tori Bender is a teacher, artist, and editor for CONNECT based in Hyogo Prefecture. She loves mountains, rivers, and the Japanese countryside. In her free time she likes to paint, skateboard, and watch movies. She is happiest around close friends and with her mischievous orange cat, Sora.

Tori’s Instagram Todsapon Kaenthip Woramate Matrot Sources: 1. Ministry of Foreign Affairs Japan

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2:46 in Futaba Kaye Scheidler (Aomori) In the northeastern part of Japan lies a quaint little town called Futaba, nestled along the midpoint of Fukushima’s coastline. It has murals that adorn scattered buildings, a lovely beach, and a population of merely 150 people. Despite how small it is, the community center is downright hopping.

At the Futaba Business Incubation and Community Center (FBICC), conferences and events are held near-weekly, temporarily doubling the town’s population for their duration. I was there in early November to attend the Japan Writer’s Conference, which gathered more than 100 writers from all over Japan to discuss all things writing and connect with each other.

Travelers from Sendai can expect an approximately two-hour, 1,600-yen train ride to get to this marvelous village, while visitors coming up from Tokyo have a longer four-hour ride and will find their wallets about 5,000 yen lighter by the end of it. Then, it is about a half-hour walk or 10-minute shuttle to the F-BICC. Choosing to walk is also a great way to see some of the beautiful murals all over town. The center itself has a Family Mart, souvenir shop, and food court boasting award- winning yakisoba with noodles as thick as my pinky finger.

While a walking tour was scheduled for Saturday after the first day of the conference, rain unfortunately plagued the coast all day, which trounced the organizers’ plan to guide conference attendees around their lovely town. In its place, two of the organizers gave a presentation of the town’s history, walking us through Futaba virtually using a combination of photography and Google Maps. While it could not capture the full experience of being out in the town ourselves, I was entranced from the first slide.

Eager to see more, I headed to the F-BICC rooftop after the second day to enjoy the view of the surrounding area which included sea walls, the Nuclear Disaster Memorial Museum, and a decontamination storage facility.

Wait, what? Yes, you read that right.

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Daiichi Nuclear Power Plant If you look very closely at the bottom left of this picture, you can see large black garbage bags.

Inside is dirt from the area that was burned, processed, and stored due to nuclear radiation.

Lift your gaze above the tree line in the same direction and you can see the tower of the Daiichi Nuclear Power Plant, which suffered a meltdown on March 11, 2011. When a 9.1 magnitude earthquake sent a tsunami barreling towards Fukushima’s coast, the power plant spewed radiation out over the land. Authorities in the months following the triple disaster estimated that residents would be unable to return for at least another twenty years. At the time of the disaster, residents in the surrounding area had no idea they wouldn’t be back for such a long time. Most just grabbed necessities on the way out, and everything else was left behind. However, thanks to the government’s efforts to decontaminate the surrounding areas, people are now able to live a mere 4 km away from the old power plant site.

Just over the sea walls are beaches that were once considered prime tourist spots in Japan.

Along that same beach is the striking A-frame silhouette of the Futaba Marine House, which once catered to summer tourists before the disaster. Its front is shockingly intact for something that withstood such a devastating tsunami. The back of the building is ripped up, and you can see where the waves tore shingles from its roof.

Standing nearby is a single black and yellow striped barrier, discouraging people from going further — probably the boundary for the safe zone. Though it seemed taking a little walk pastit wouldn’t have been detrimental to anyone’s health. After all, Japan’s safety standards surrounding radiation are very strict and Futaba has been open to tourists since 2020, before residents started living there two years later.

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The Marine House As I stood watching the quiet Marine House for several minutes, I wished I had more time. I wanted to walk around the town, see the murals painted in honor of its resilient residents, and visit the museum that memorialized this place’s history, but the shuttle bus was departing soon.

Futaba’s little station combines old and new—the small red brick original station stands next to the shiny new one.

The clock on the outside of the old building read 2:46 p.m.

It was still another hour until the train arrived, but luckily for me, I wasn’t alone. Two of my fellow conference attendants were also waiting for an outbound train. We even conversed with a local Futaba town hall employee, who was glad to see tourists coming back to the area.

Inside the station is a map with stickers that represent all of Futaba’s worldwide visitors, a stack of notebooks asking for people’s impression of the town, and a bright pink door that leads nowhere. The sign next to it explains that it opened at midnight on August 30, 2022—the end of Futaba’s evacuation order.

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2:46 PM

Deeply moved by what I saw, I asked the local what he loved most about living in Futaba. His answer, “There’s a lot of difficulties, but I have to say it’s the kindness of the people here.”

I eventually took my leave and checked the time on my phone, 3:40 p.m. Then, one last time Iooked up at the old station clock, still reading 2:46 pm—the exact time the earthquake struck the east coast of Japan nearly thirteen years earlier.

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Futaba’s Perseverance The 2011 disaster countless lives, took and changed bu ability to rebuil t Futaba’s d its perseverance. is a testament to the past are disp While relics of la the town, Futaba’s yed throughout revitalization in slow but steady si not stuck. It reme sts that it is but as the soil is mbers the past, people return, th cleared and the is community of hard- working, ki nd people will ke ep moving towards a brighter future.

is currently a Kaye Scheidler living in Aomori T AL r ea -y th ur fo enjoy writing, prefecture. They adically taking or reading, and sp ty projects in af cr s on variou . their free time 81

Hokkaido’s nine famous mountains Jon Solmundson (Hokkaido) Look at the roads on either side of Mount Poroshiri, Hokkaido, and you will notice something strange.

There are two stretches of asphalt, completely unconnected, both labeled Route 111.

This has been the case since 1994; the start of a grand highway tunneling through the Hidaka Mountains. But it was never finished, deemed too expensive and unpopular. A couple hours north, Route 661 also ends in a sudden terminus rather than carving its planned route through the Daisetsuzan Volcanic Group. Local environmentalists fought for 36 years before the proposed tunnel there was scrapped. The people of Hokkaido have shown a determination to keep the unique beauty of Japan’s northern edge untouched by development.

Dave Dilling, an avid hiker who has been exploring Hokkaido’s peaks since he came to Japan a decade ago, describes them as some of Japan’s “most wild.”

“In Honshu, people will plan hikes from hut to hut. . . whereas you have to be more self-reliant in Hokkaido, and there’s just less people here, a lot less people.”

“I like the solitude of these places. I like the idea that a lot of people don’t want to make the effort to go out there. I like being engulfed in nature.”

This year, Dave completed a long-running personal goal to summit all nine of the Hokkaido peaks listed in Kyuya Fukuda’s 100 Famous Japanese Mountains. He’s far from the only one to take the book’s advice, which ascended to the top of Japan’s mountain climbing canon thanks to a prized place on Emperor Naruhito’s bookshelf. Public awareness of this royal interest in mountain climbing added to the increasing appeal of hiking, as Japan’s economic growth fuelled surging participation in leisure activities through the 1980s. According to a 2021 report from Japan’s Ministry of Internal Affairs and Communications, today 8.6 million Japanese people enjoy hiking in the nation’s mountains—roughly one in every fifteen.

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Dave says the unique beauty of Hokkaido’s mountains is the way they suddenly “jut up from the flat land,” rather than slowly emerging from a growing ridge line.

“They’re very volcanic, I think that’s the best way to describe them.”

“A lot of the peaks are very barren because they’re basically cinder cones. So you get this landscape that, when you get up high, is very moonscape-looking. Its reddish grays, blacks, sandy, sharp peaks. There’s just not much vegetation.”

Despite this alien environment, Hokkaido’s peaks are relatively welcoming to beginners. Most have trailheads with easy parking access (conveniently avoiding the need to line up and wait for the trailhead shuttle buses common to more popular peaks), and can be completed in a day.

“You don’t need rockclimbing skills, but there are areas where you’ll scramble,” Dave says.

“You might need to use your hands to hold onto things, and lift yourself up one body length.

Or there might be short ladders or some ropes on slicker, steeper slopes.”

The last peak on Dave’s list, Poroshiri, he completed this summer. The mountain will take most climbers two days, camping overnight on the slope to reach its summit the following morning. Dave had originally planned to set up camp alongside one of the trail’s picturesque ponds, but opted for a spot atop the ridge after fellow hikers warned him of a bear sighted in the area.

“One guy was like literally, ‘Oh, I just saw a bear over there in the bushes, but it was going down, so you probably won’t run into it,’” he says, with a fond laugh.

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“It was a clear night so I just slept outside. The stars were just amazing because there’s no light pollution there.”

“It was more stars than I’ve ever seen in Hokkaido. . . That was really moving.”

With 26 Hokkaido peaks under his belt, Dave is eager to keep climbing in Hokkaido, but doesn’t have the same enthusiasm to summit the rest of the 100 Famous Japanese Mountains.

“As I see more photos [of mountains outside of Hokkaido], some of the appeal goes away, because part of the appeal of hiking is getting away from the crowds. Whereas it’s quite full in the very popular areas.”

“For me it’s about getting back in touch, getting closer to nature.”

CONNECT Travel Editor Jon Solmundson is a fifth-year JET currently writing from the sleepy cabbage farming town of Nanporo, Hokkaido. He enjoys photography, video games, and a spot of camping when the chilly northern weather allows. You can read his short stories and travel logs over at https://jonsolmundson.substack.com/.

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Hokkaido’s nine famous

mountains Mount Rishiri “I would definitely say my favorite climb in Hokkaido was Mt. Rishiri. You take the ferry from Wakkanai, and there’s only three a day, so you have to plan around that. We camped near the trailhead and set off in the morning, climbed to the top and back, with just enough time to have a soak in the onsen before the last ferry back, but if you have the chance to do it I recommend you stay two days on the island.”

Mount Tomuraushi “For me, this was the least memorable of the nine mountains. I did it as a long day hike. I remember a lot of muddy, poorly maintained trails and kind of an unimpressive rocky summit. It was quite cloudy too, I think I’d like to revisit this one at some point to get a better impression.”

Mount Yotei

“I climbed this on the autumn equinox. It was a 9 or 10 hour climb, round trip. The challenging thing About Yotei is there’s no water on the mountain, so you’ve got to carry all your water from the beginning of the day.”

Mount Mount Tokachi “This is a prominent peak just outside of Furano. The area is very barren, you really feel the “being on a volcano” vibes. I climbed this one on the first official Mountain Day holiday in 2016, so it was quite crowded, but still a memorable climb. Don’t miss out on Hakuginso Onsen on your way out.”

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“Thiswas This wasa and very b much wild you’re so d signs of ci tains for as

Daisetsuzan “The Daisetsuzan contains many of the highest peaks in Hokkaido, the highest being Asahi Dake at 2,291 meters. It’s quite accessible, with a ropeway that takes you partly up the mountain and offers great views of the surrounding area.

The barren upper regions of the mountain and the active volcanic gas vents make for a stunning landscape.”

Mount Rausu “This is the highest peak on the Shiretoko Peninsula. It’s a very wild and rugged place with the largest concentration of higuma (brown bears) in Hokkaido.

From the top you can get views of the Sea of Okhotsk and the Pacific Ocean as well.”

Mount Shari “Shari kind of sits out by itself on Hokkaido’s eastern plains. It’s a very wide and pyramidal shaped mountain. It’s a very grand and “old” feeling mountain to me. The trail is infamous for being difficult as a large part of the climb is either stream crossings or hiking in the water of small creeks. The views from the top were amazing. I could see what seemed like the entirety of eastern Hokkaido, and the contested Kuril Islands beyond.”

Akan Poroshiri

aareally reallytough toughhike, hike,but butititwas wasvery veryhumbling, humbling, beautiful. You’re just so remote. It’s much, der than a lot of the other trails because deep in nature that you really can’t see any ivilization. No roads or cities, just the mounmoun s far as you can see.” see.

“There are two major mountains to the Akan Complex, Me Akan and Oh Akan. Their names are female and male respectively. I climbed Me Akan, which is still an active stratovolcano. It’s a beautiful hike with stunning views of Lake Akan and the surrounding environment. It’s not too hard of a hike, although I was a bit concerned while hiking because I ran into a mountain rescue team who had just put a fallen hiker onto a helicopter about an hour prior. Luckily the rest of my climb was uneventful.”

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