Sustainable Backpack by Aishwarya Nair

PRODUCTDEVELOPMENT with NATURALFIBERS Investigating how one can develop hi-tech products such as a Backpack from materials that are considered low-tech

by AISHWARYA

2|

NAIR

CONTENTS

FOREWORD

5

PROJECT BRIEF

6-10

Introduction The Brief Why? Project Plan Overview

SECONDARY RESEARCH History of Bags Backpack Timeline Basketry and Weaves Precedent Research Natural Fibers Material Library Material Properties

MARKET VISITS Bamboo Bazaar Store Visits Bamboo Studio Dastakaar The Ants Rope Sangaroo

BACKPACK RESEARCH Store Visits Decathlon Backpacks Construction 4 | Contents

6 7 8 9 10

12-20 12 13 14 15-16 17 18 19-20

22-29 22 23 24 25 26 27-28 29

31-35 31 32 33 35

ANALYSIS Backpack Study Basic Analysis Morphology Madpax Blok Minaal Backpack Interview Opportunity Areas

EXPLORATION Birth of a Studio Treatments Processing Mock-ups Backpack Straps Straps & Handle

IDEATION Doodles Sketches Form Exploration Initial sketches Feedback Turning Point Sketches Part 2 Simplifying Hard Case Backpack Exploded View Other Intuitive Ideas Concept Mood Board Shortlisted Materials

38-47 38-39 40 41-43 44 45 46 47

49-55 49 50 51 52-53 54 55

57-70 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70

Sourcing Materials

71

PROTOTYPE MAKING

73-86

Prepartaion Process 1 Finishing First prototype Feedback Process 2 Second Prototype User Persona Design Specifications

73 74-75 76 78-79 80 81 82-84 85 86

THE DUTCH DESIGN WEEK 88-89 FURTHER POSSIBILITIES

90

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

91

BIBLIOGRAPHY

92

FOREWORD A glimpse of me

I have always loved material, and the idea of making something purposeful and innovative out of it.

This summer Studio Tjeerd Veenhoven contacted me with a Diploma Project, which required me to do exactly that. It was everything I imagined, yet nothing like any other project before.

For me, the calling has always been Product Design. Ever since I was 13, that is the only thing I thought I’ll be good at and something I will enjoy doing.

When I start designing, I like to follow a very systematic design process. I want to be sure about why I did what I did.

Most of the times my ‘Whys’ arrive from orderly research, but in all my designs, I also tend to incorporate elements that are personal and very human. These elements are not only derived from research or analysis, but from my own experience and observation. It may be an emotional feeling or just a tactile feeling, a distant memory or recent involvement. It is something that I cannot entirely explain, but just hope to express through my products. The Backpacks I designed for this project also represent that in some way.

Apart from that, I love designing for children. I design for the child in me; I design for the child I see.

Foreword | 5

INTRODUCTION Aspects of the project

NATURAL FIBERS Sustainability

INDUSTRIAL PRODUCT

Re-source

CRAFT SECTOR

ReGenerate

Materials

Re-think Facilitate Change

Augmentation

Natural Fibers Project is about investigating how one can develop hi-tech products from materials that are considered low-tech.

My aim is to highlight the potential and strength of natural fibers when the right materials, craft techniques and industrial processes are combined together.

And to showcase its value through a highly functional product like a Backpack.

6 | Brief

Technology

Hi-tech

Low-tech

Environment

Artisans

+

BACKPACK Functional Comfort Viability

Convenience

Aesthetic

PROJECT BRIEF: The given brief was to facilitate change, explore new avenues and augment the craft sector by exploring resources, and by re-generating and re-thinking materials and processes.

One of the aspects to consider was resources in general with particular focus on natural fibers from around the world and locally. I had to infuse radical thought in the way products made from natural fibers are viewed and valued.

THE BRIEF Re-generate and Re-think

The aim was to highlight the potential and strength of natural fibers when the right materials, craft techniques and industrial processes are combined together.

Exploring the ideal combination

Indian Tea Collectors Backpack

Boblbee Backpack

PROJECT OUTCOME: The aim is to develop a Backpack from natural fibers using industrial techniques.

The design should represent a new way to reposition natural fibers. The concepts can be based on existing technology in different sectors of production.

Brief | 7

Time line

WHY? Purpose of the project

Organization

Procuring

Expensive raw materials

Production

Lack of access to new technology

Value of Traditional Materials & Crafts

Environment Aggregation

Artisans lose opportunities

Society Market

Integrated Sustainability

Culture

Low supply due to supply chain inefficiencies

Economy Demand

8 | Brief

ClichĂŠd image of handicraft products

Problems with the Craft Sector

Sustainable Product, Sustainable Future

7th Jul: Secondary research 21st Jul: Analysis 23rd Jul: Market Visits 4th Aug: Other Material Research 11th Aug: Exploration, Primary Research & Analysis 27th Aug: Intervention 11th Sept: Unit visit with a new perspective 20th Sept: Set design parameters.

24th Sept: Backpacks Research 30th Sept: Create an exploded view of a backpack 6th Oct: Morphological analysis 11th Oct: Final Direction 23rd Oct: Mock ups and Sketches 4th Nov: Prototype 21st Nov: Documentation & Presentation

PROJECT PLAN

Preparing a project plan and a time line was one of the foremost steps of the process. Upon further discussion with the mentors, the project was broken down to following steps:

Phase 1a (6.5 Weeks)

Immersion

12

34

intervention

Aug 56

78

Phase 2b (3 Weeks) Phase 3 (1.5 Weeks)

Conceptualization

Review New Techniques, Parameters, Analysis, Final Direction, Alter Natural Fibers, etc. Back Packs, 3D Defining Posibilities, etc.

Secondary & Material Research, Visits, etc.

July

Phase 2a (3.5 Weeks)

Phase 1b (4.5 Weeks)

Exploration

0

11

12

docume ntation

Mock Ups, Sketches, Refining, Prototypes.

Presentation

octN

SEpt 91

Making

13

14

15

16

17

ov 18

19

20

dec 21

22

23

24

25

Weeks

Kick Off

2nd Aug: Seminar

29th-30th Sept: Seminar

27th-28th Oct: Seminar

Final Review

Grad Show

Brief | 9

OVERVIEW Research & Exploration

The purpose of the research phase for this project was as following:

The purpose of the exploration phase for this project was as following:

• To understand the history of backpacks, basketry, weaves and woven.

• To study other relevant products and understand its applications.

• To study different natural fibers and its properties.

• To understand the craft sector market and the specific materials and product offered by them.

• To study different backpacks, its specifications and details.

• To understand material access and limitations.

• To understand the properties of natural fibers and come up with intuitive applications.

• To study and understand the various material combinations and applications possible.

• To understand individual components of a backpack.

• To apply and understand different processes and techniques.

10 |Brief

SECONDARY RESEARCH

Secondary Research| 11

HISTORY OF BAGS and traditional rucksacks

The research phase began by reading about ancient backpacks, materials used back then, and about the invention and evolution of backpacks.

Waterproof rattan backpack, Phillippines

In the past, hunters were the only people who used backpacks. They were made out of animal skins sewn together with animal intestines. It held the hunter’s tools and their dinner. The term backpack was created in the United States in the early 1900s.

The first clear, widespread and well preserved occurrences of a framed backpack occur in Norway in the late 1800s. The pack was referred to as ‘sekk med meis’, literally meaning “bag with a frame”, and dates to 1880.

Again, it featured a frame to which a bag is attached. The bag itself is typical of the frame less rucksacks used at the time. There may have been a strap that wraps around the waist, but it did not seem to have any load bearing function.

1920’s- Seal skin & willow sticks backpack 12 | Secondary Research

1800’s- First preserved framed backpack

1400’s- Backpack painting

Woven Backpack

BACKPACK TIME LINE Evolution of School-Packs

1955

Leather Backpacks

1986 Graphic Novelty Bags

2013

1959

1989

1930s

One Strap for Books

1960

Leather + Short Handles

1990 Nylon Bags

2013

1962

1993 Nylon Bags

2014

1940s Woven Backpacks

1971

1950

One Strap + Leather

1981

Satchel

2000 Heavy-duty Backpacks

2010

2014 Secondary Research| 13

BASKETRY & WEAVES

Traditional basket weavers use materials they have at hand to create the baskets needed to sustain their lives.

The materials historically consist of natural fibers which can be found in the native environment. Examples of typical fibers include many varieties of grasses, vines, trees, and roots. Essentially, any material flexible and strong enough to withstand weaving can be used.

An extensive variety

Food Gathering Baskets The next step was to do some basic research on basketry and weaving techniques around the world, so that later on, if required, I could use some form of weaving in my design.

The variety of weaves and materials used worldwide make for thousands of different types and styles of baskets. It has been said that baskets are a reflection of the diversity found in the population today.

The Indians of the San Joaquin Valley were known as ‘Yokuts’. The Yokuts women made beautiful baskets of all shapes and sizes. Baskets were used for gathering and storing food, for carrying babies, and even for hauling water. Some baskets were so tightly woven that not a drop of water would leak from them.

14 | Secondary Research

Yokut Indian Baskets

PRECEDENT RESEARCH Use of fibers in industrial products

Then I researched on what kind of similar products exists in the market.

Following are some of the existing automobile-related products that I came across: Released in July 2008, the Lotus Eco Elise features body panels made with hemp, along with sisal carpets and seats upholstered with hemp fabric.

Corcoco Boards

In India, a growing shortage of timber for the construction industry has spurred development of composite board made from jute veneer and coir ply.

Japan’s carmakers, too, are “going green”.

Studies show that coir’s high lignin content makes it both stronger and more resistant to rotting than teak.

In Indonesia, Toyota manufactures are using door trims made from kenaf and polypropylene, and Mazda is using a Bioplastic made with kenaf for car interiors.

In Europe, hemp hurd and fibres are being used in cement and to make particle boards half the weight of wood-based boards.

Vehicles in some BMW series contain up to 24 kg of flax and sisal.

Natural Fibre based TeXtreme Fabric

Lotus Eco Elise- 2008

Secondary Research| 15

PRECEDENT RESEARCH Use of fibers in industrial products

Hemp Sunglasses

Hemp Eyewear Sam Whitten has designed and manufactured ‘hemp eye wear’, sunglasses made from a hemp fibre composite. ‘‘Research into hemp and its possible applications led to the discovery of hemp and flax fibre composite sheet material which are impregnated with an eco friendly binder,’’ said whitten.

The composite sheets require compression moulding under heat to form.

16 | Secondary Research

Zeoform Hemp Plastics

Zeoform is a promising eco-friendly solution to traditional plastics. It’s made from a simple mixture of plant fiber (specifically cellulose) and water.

What’s more, unlike plastic, Zeoform is compostable.

Hemp, along with flax and straw, are ideal for making Zeoform because of their high cellulose content.

NATURAL FIBERS Research

Coir

Hibiscus

Khas Vetiver

Water Hyacinth

Moonj Grass

Kauna Reed

Korai Grass

Hemp Fiber

Corn Husk

Banana Fiber

NATURAL FIBERS: Researching on existing natural fibers in India and around the world was an integral part of the project.

I started by identifying various natural materials around India, and then started building a material library of more than 40 materials and classified them according to their properties, strengths, weakness, availability, etc. such that in the future I could use the most appropriate material for different parts of the backpack based on the requirements.

Secondary Research| 17

MATERIAL LIBRARY 40+ Materials

Baobab

Coconut Fiber

Willow

Moonj Grass

Fique

Bengal Grass

Flax

Cotton

Abaca

Sisal

Linen

Hibiscus

Cotton Canvas

Cane Jute

Khas Vetiver

Carbon Fibre

Screw Pine

Areca Leaf

Ramie

Silk

Bamboo

Pineapple Fiber

Tamarind Fiber

Cork

Eucalyptus

Luffa Gourd

Colocasia

Banana Leaf

Teak Leaves Kauna Reed

Sabaii Grass

Hemp Fiber

Sugar Cane

Lotus Fabric

Birch Bark

Aloe Vera

Shittal Patti

Korai Grass

Papyrus

Water Hyacinth

Rubber

Luffa Gourd 18 | Secondary Research

Banana Bark

Birch Bark

Corn Husk

My research on various natural fibers led to the creation of a materials library of over forty different materials.

I studied each material, understood its strengths, weaknesses, and other properties.

Then I compiled all the properties of the materials in an excel table. Later, when I was designing, if I wanted to use a flexible property of a material, I could easily identify all the relevant fibers from the table.

Natural Rubber Latex

Banana Bark

Piña is a fiber made from the leaves of a pineapple plant.

It is sometimes combined with silk or polyester to create a textile fabric

MATERIAL PROPERTIES

Parts Used: Leaves Habitat (India): West Bengal,As sam,Karnataka,Tripura,Bihar,M anipur,Meghalaya,Kerala,Nagaland,Arunachal Pradesh

Khas Vetiver & PIna

Processes: Retting, decortication, combing, etc.

Following are some of the material specifications and properties: Khas Vetiver is a perennial grass of the Poaceae family, native to India. In western and northern India, it is popularly known as ‘khas’. The root system of vetiver is finely structured and very strong. It can grow 3–4 m deep within the first year.

Properties: Extremely Soft softer than Hemp, Light-weight, Easy Maintenance, Breathable Fabric, Blendable, Washable, Fine Textured than Silk, Rich in cellulose, Inexpensive, High stiffness, etc.

Pineapple Fiber Mat

Pineapple fabric dress

Vetiver Bath Scrub

Vetiver Bath Mat

Parts Used: Roots.

Habitat (India): Karnataka, Rajasthan, Kerala Processes: Cleaning, Rising, Drying, Packing in bundles, Industrial Processing, Weaving, Mud-Brick Making, etc.

Properties: Scented, Fibrous, Anti-Septic, Controls Erosion, Anti-Fungal, evaporative cooling properties eg: Woven Mats cool room in summer.

Vetiver Oil

Vetiver Tassels

Secondary Research| 19

The Coconut Palm, Cocos nucifera, is a member of the family Arecaceae (palm family). The term coconut can refer to the entire coconut palm, the seed, or the fruit, which botanically is a drupe, not a nut

MATERIAL PROPERTIES Hemp & Coconut

Parts Used: Husks, shells, trunk, roots, leaves.

Following are some of the material specifications and properties: Hemp is a distinct variety of the plant species Cannabis sativa L. The plant consists of an inner layer called the pith surrounded by woody core fiber. Bast fibers form the outer layer. The primary bast fibers are used for textiles, cordage, and fine paper products. The wood-like core fiber is used for animal bedding and an assortment of building materials .

Parts Used: Leaves, Stem, Roots.

Habitat (India): Kerala, Tamil Nadu, Puducherry, Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, Goa, Maharashtra, Orissa, West.

Processes: Coir, Stripping, Weaving, Kindling, Activated Carbon manufacturing, Carving, Retting, Tannin, Hollowing, Fraying, Needle felting Coir, Twining, Latex Spraying (rubberised coir), Laminating, Composite board making.

Properties: Trunk: Straightness, Strength & Salt Resistance, Branches: Strong & Flexible, Coir: high water holding capacity, excellent drainage, air porosity, anti-fungal, life of 3-4 years, Light-weight, never shrinks, cracks or produces crust, odourless, pleasant to handle, etc.

These four materials mentioned are just selected samples from the library of 40 materials. The other 36 hasn’t been mentioned in the book.

Habitat (India): Punjab, Bengal, Kashmir, Uttar Pradesh, Trivandrum.

Processes: Cutting, Balling, Pulping, Matting, Weaving, Dyeing, Blended with Flax, Cotton or Silk, Making Fiber Board, Composite panels, Blocks, Bioplastic, etc.

Properties: Strength, Durability, Inexpensive, Easy to Twine, Easy to Dye, Easy to Stitch, Carbon Negative, Macrame-able (textile making by knotting), Great absorption, excellent insulator, regulates temperature, Anti-Bacterial, Anti-Mildew, etc.

Hemp Chair Mold 20 | Secondary Research

Coir Pots

MARKET VISITS

Market Visits | 21

BAMBOO BAZAAR Shivaji Nagar, Bangalore

Bamboo Bazaar Chopping

Stacked Bamboo To study specific materials and crafts I visited various markets and stores in and around Bangalore.

I started with Bamboo Bazaar, to learn about Bamboo.

Bamboo Bazaar is located near Shivaji Nagar, Bangalore.

Ready made furniture, antiques, doors and cabinets,etc. are sold there in bulk. Then there were shops devoted to bamboo and carpentry.

Though the street is named ‘Bamboo Bazaar’, there are more wood workshops than bamboo.

Insights & Learnings: • The artisans and craftsmen were highly skilled, but there was less demand for their artisanship and intricate work.

• Most of the orders received were commissioned scaffolding and ladders for construction work.

• Different techniques and processes were applied to Bamboo. For example, pressed bamboo boards, intricate blinds work, laminated ‘steel like’ curved bamboo.

22 | Market Visits

Laminated Bamboo

Bamboo Roll-up Blinds

Bamboo Half-Blind

STORE VISITS Fabindia and Mother Earth

Mother Earth Home Collection Next step was to study various contemporary handicrafts store in Bangalore. I started with Fabindia, which was closely followed by Mother Earth and other stores.

Insights & Learnings: • Hardly any innovation in terms of products.

• Woven natural fibers were simply put into everyday household products.

• Simple variations in stitches were incorporated for the sake of visual appeal.

Both Fabindia & Mothearth showcased a variety of products made out of natural materials. They sourced their raw materials from different parts of India but mainly they were from North-East & West Bengal.

There were a lot of Banana, Korai and Date Palm weaving, which were implemented into products like baskets, photo-frames, mats, trays, etc.

Various combination of weaves and dyes were seen, such as woven banana and jute combined together, coconut shells incorporated into date palm weaves.

Fabindia Basket Joinery

Fabindia Baskets Market Visits | 23

BAMBOO STUDIO NID, Bangalore

Various Bamboo Products

Different types of Bamboo

Bamboo & Cane products kept for display To investigate more on contemporary and innovative approach used on Bamboo I visited the Bamboo studio of NID, Bangalore.

Insights & Learnings: • There are many different varieties of bamboo. And I should properly understand my material first before any intended application.

• Understanding treatments finalising texture of the material before applying it in a product will help me.

• While designing, it also important to focus on and think about how each material will fold, bend and join.

NID’s Bamboo studio had a numerous amount of Bamboo products kept for display. Not only were they unusual and well designed, it also incorporated a variety of techniques and processes. The studio worked as an excellent library that showcased the possibilities with bamboo. They also had a bamboo workshop, where raw materials were stored and new products were being made.

Some of the various bamboo treatments and processes observed were: Boric & Borax Acid Treatment Coiling, Pressing, Weaving, Gluing, Joining, etc.

Folding, Mixing with fibers, etc.

24 | Market Visits

‘Laathi’ Bamboo

Woven & Dyed Bamboo

DASTAKAAR Nature Bazaar

Hand woven products using Moonj grass

Hand-made bags by Lakshya- Badte Kadam

Insights & Learnings: • I came across new materials like Moonj Grass, Sabaii Grass, Bengal Grass, etc.

• Products were made with local inexpensive materials • Overall there was a wide limitation seen in the product variety • Design was experimented only in terms of colour and patterns

In order to learn more about materials and crafts from different parts of India, I attended Dastakaar, a local art, handicrafts and product exhibition.

Dastakaar Nature Bazaar in Bangalore had a wide variety of crafts from various states of India. The aim of the event was to promote the local crafts, artisans and craftsmanship.

Some of the techniques and processes I came across were: Weaving, Stitching, coiling, twisting, dyeing, etc.

Sabaii Grass Bowls

Coconut shell toys Market Visits | 25

THE ANTS The Action North-East Trust

Traditional Backpack

Bamboo Basket detail

Black Pottery

Woven Baskets

‘‘Every product has an inspirational, peace-filled story behind them.’’

The Ants was the next store I visited.

They not only provided me with detailed knowledge on various materials and products, but also helped me with sourcing some of the materials that I would require for my designs later on.

The Ants aims at generating more livelihood and bring positive stories from the North-East.

Their product range includes Bamboo Products, Black Pottery, Brass Products, Home Products, Giftware, Kitchen Ware, Apparel, Feature Products, Personal-Care products, Toys, etc.

Insights & Learnings: • I came across various new materials like Shittal Patti and Kauna Reed and learnt about their very interesting properties. For example, Shittal Patti because of its weaving is very flexible while Kauna Reed displayed properties similar to Water Hyacinth with a good cushioning property.

• I also learnt about traditional tea-leaf pickers backpacks and hunter backpacks.

• I came across various materials and crafts specific to the North-East India.

Pradeep from The Ants took a special interest in my project. He said, “We have tried and tested the usual products made by our craftsmen in the North-East using natural fibers, it works. But what we would like to now see is what new innovative products can be launched in the market made by the same sustainable material, but in a way that it doesn’t feel like a crafts product anymore and is more utility based.”

Kauna Reed Cushions 26 | Market Visits

Shittal Patti Mat

ROPE Banana Unit, Madurai

Mr. Prasanna from ROPE had invited Surbhi and I to come to Madurai and visit various production units. ROPE helped me research extensively on various loacl fibers and learn about production first hand.

Our long day at Madurai began with a visit to a Banana Unit in the outskirts.

This Banana unit was owned by a banana farmer Mr. P Murugesan.

He is an ambitious man, whose purpose of starting the unit was Mr. P Murugesan to find out ways to reduce waste holding his latest award generated from Banana farming. handed to him by PM Mr. Murugesan smiling showed Narendra Modi himself us a heavy binder holding certificates of his numerous state and national awards.

His unit provides Banana Rope for Banana Silk the company ROPE.

Banana Bark being washed

‘Jugaad’ Splitting of Banana Bark

Women making rope

Single ply rope

Materials seen: Banana Bark, Banana Silk, Banana Rope, Banana Saw dust, etc.

Processes seen: Extracting, Drying, Spliting, Twining, Braiding, Crushing, etc.

Market Visits | 27

ROPE Jute and other units, Madurai Jute Rope Plying Our next stops were three more production units. One where Jute Ropes were being manufactured, second was where company oders were being produced innovatively with materials like dyed Arecca and Tamarind remains, third was where new products for the company was being made.

Insights and Learnings: I developed a special interest in knowing and using the properties of Banana Bark ROPE lacked innovative designs in their products, like most of the contemporary handicraft companies today.

People in ROPE were eager and enthusiastic about knowing new approaches to developing products

28 | Market Visits

Decorative products being made

ROPE helped me get a lot of material samples from Madurai. I started building my studio and experimenting with different materials like Banana Ropes, Banana Bark, Elephant Grass, Khas Vetiver, etc.

After a long day of exhaustive learning Mr. Prasanna graciously took Surbhi and I to Meenakshi Temple, and introduced me to a Madurai specialty drink ‘Jigar Thanda’!

SANGARU Sandeep Sangaru’s Bamboo Studio

Bamboo modules being laminated

Sandeep Sangaru with his collection ‘Truss Me’ I continued my study on Bamboo by visiting Sandeep Sangaru’s Studio. I was specifically looking to learn more about the joinery, finishing and any other unusual interesting practices done with Bamboo. Sangaru’s studio was the perfect place to do so.

Insights & Learnings: • My major learning was that there is practically no • limitation to what one can do with Bamboo, one just has to try different approaches.

• I learnt how to skilfully bend and fold bamboo into desired shape using jig and blow torch.

• I also got to see an interesting application of Shittal Patti as covering over pillars, which kept me intrigued about the possibilities of that material too.

I got to see how innovative Bamboo designs were created and bought to life. I specially loved his designs for children. It was encouraging to see how Bamboo was used against all its conventional approaches and were made into authentic products.

Sandeep was kind enough to not only provide me with details about Bamboo processes but also generously offered me his workshop for me to go create the bamboo parts for my project.

Kid’s Stool with Bamboo

Bamboo & Paper Mache Chair Market Visits | 29

BACKPACK RESEARCH

30 | Backpack Research

STORE VISITS Puma, American Tourister, etc.

Puma Mobium Running Pack

American Tourister Backpacks

Puma Urban Mobility Pack To start with my Backpack research I visited various Backpacks stores around Bangalore.

Insights and Learnings: • Backpack industry is technologically very advanced. A complete opposite to the handicrafts sector.

• The industry is completely dependent on different high quality synthetic fibers.

• The moulding, combinations, joinery, finishing is very high-tech and detailed.

• I could see potential in Natural Fibers to be developed into something small but highly functional backpack like a Running Pack.

Details of Mobium Pack

Nike Air Backpack Straps Backpack Research | 31

DECATHLON Study of different types of Backpacks

I visited Decathlon to study about different types of Backpack, individual components and details in modern Backpacks.

Insights and Learnings: • The range of different types of Backpacks is • extensive.

• Types of Backpacks seen: Light Weight Single Compartment Day Pack, Hard Case Back Pack, Day Pack, Laptop Pack, Trekking Backpack, Travel Backpack, Hunters Backpack, Gym Pack, Running Pack, Golf Pack, Batminton Pack, Football Back, Children’s Pack, Childrens and adults combined pack all in different volumes and many more.

• A lot of different density foam was used for high level of comfort and ergonomics.

• There were very well designed and smart compartments, detachable parts and extending parts.

• Modulur Packs and Running Packs seemed like a design possibility for my project • I could see Luffa showing some of the properties of the foam padding used

Back Padding

Metal Back Framework

Trying a Trekking Pack

Hunting Backpacks

Ergonomic Padding 32 | Backpack Research

Very thin synthetic fabric

BACKPACKS Examining Backpacks around Expandable Bottle Pouch

Strap Details

Regular Laptop Pack

Ventilated Back- Day Pack

Korai Grass Picnic Pack

Bottle Pouch

Backpack Research | 33

BACKPACK PARTS Understanding Components & Construction

34 | Backpack Research

CONSTRUCTION Ripping apart an old Backpack

Backpack Research | 35

EXPLODED VIEW Component Study

36 | Backpack Research

ANALYSIS

Analysis | 37

Function

To carry hunting equipment & Bait

Rucksack

To carry school books

Features

1 Main Compartment, 1 Main Lock, Back Straps

1 Main Compartment, Pull String, Wooden Frame,Back & Chest Strap

1 Main Compartment Adjustable Back Straps

Usability

Carry equipment & bait Secure components inside, Convenient carrying

Carry equipment, Secure components inside, Convenient carrying, Stability, No Load Bearing

Carry Books Load Bearing & Convenience

Materials Used

Animal Skin & Animal Intestine

Leather, Wood

Woven Bamboo, Leather, Bamboo, Jute,

Fabric, Palm Leather, Woven Bamboo/Banana, Coconut Shell, Wood, Banana Bark, Water Hyacinth, Paper Mache, etc.

Banana Leaf, Palm Leather, Bamboo, Wood, Water Hyacinth, Banana Rope, Banana Fiber,Jute, etc.

Fabric, Palm Leather, Woven Bamboo/Banana/Grass etc., Jute, Banana Bark, Binding Tape, Nylon, etc.

Solution Softened Materials, Stitching, Layering Materials

Solution Softened Materials, Heat Moulding, Weaving, Stitching, Combining natural & synthetic materials

Possible Natural Fiber

Applicable Processes

38 | Analysis

Solution Softened Materials, Heat Moulding, Weaving, Stitching, Layering Materials

To carry basic small things

Hardshell Boombox backpack to carry eqiuipments & becomes a portable sound system

Carry Daily eqipment & ride an attached kick scooter

1 Main Compartment, Adjustable Back Straps, Size Zip part of the main compartment, Carry handle

Two side zipper pockets, 1 Main compartment, Carry handle, Adjustable padded shoulder strap Stereo

Two side zipper pockets, 1 Main compartment, Carry handle, Laptop pocket with security strap, Adjustable padded shoulder strap, Collapsible Kick Scooter

Carry basic necessities Easy Side Acess

Compartment for daily equipments Lightweight, Hard Case, Water Resistant, 3.5mm sterio-audio input Illuminated power controls Rechargeable Battery, Playback

2 main compartments, Patented scooter holder system, Padded laptop compartment, 8 zipped pockets, 2 velcro pockets CD and DVD organizer, Sunglass pocket with fleece lining, Media port, Phone/iPod pocket on shoulder strap

Korai Grass, Nylon Binding Tape Zip

Light weight Hard White Plastic

Nylon, Plastic, Metal

Woven Bamboo/Banana/Grass etc., Palmleather, Banana Bark, Binding Tape, Nylon, etc.

Moulded/Laminated Palm Leather, Banana Bark, Water Hyacinth, Bamboo, Woven Bamboo/Banana/ Grass etc. Bamboo Board, Fabric, Palm Leather, Banana Leaf, Coconut Shell, Wood, Banana Bark, Water Hyacinth, Bamboo Pipe, Nylon, Plastic, Metal, etc.

Moulded/Laminated Palm Leather, Banana Bark, Water Hyacinth, Bamboo, Woven Bamboo/Banana/Grass etc.

Bamboo Board, Fabric, Palm Leather, Banana Leaf, Coconut Shell, Wood, Banana Bark, Water Hyacinth, Nylon, Plastic, Scooter, Metal, etc.

Solution Softened Materials, Stitching, Layering Materials

Solution Softened Materials, Stitching, Layering Materials

Solution Softened Materials, Stitching, Layering Materials

Analysis | 39

BASIC ANALYSIS Study of three different packs

B: NEWFEEL: Madrio 25L Laptop Bag FEATURES: Rs. 2499/Daily Backpacks 25L Designed for carrying personal belongings and a laptop for every day use.

Hard Case Impact Protection: Protection for your Laptop & Camera Multi- Compartment Design: Made for the Newfeel Reflex Camera Bag, and for 15.4” Laptop Anatomic Design: Adjustable Padded Straps Durability 2yr Guarantee C: QUECHA: Forclaz 22 Air Backpack FEATURES: Rs. 2799/1 Day Mountain Hiking Backpacks 22L Designed for a day hiking in all weather

A: PUMA: Mobium Backpack 120 FEATURES: Rs. 4000/Running Backpacks Designed to adapt to your natural running rhythm Capacity: 13” L x 6” W x 25” H Easy Transport: Well Ventilated Back, Detachable Base Compartment, Waist Straps, Compression straps, Load Straps, Chest Strap, Multi- Compartment Design: Two-way zip opening, slip-in pockets, H2O+Audio Hole, Electronics Holder Anatomic Design Durability & Strength: Nylon + Polyester

40 | Analysis

Capacity: L 50cm x W 32cm x D 28cm Easy Storage: Pockets: 1 inner, 2 outer + 1 back Mesh Pocket + Pole Loop + Water Bladder Easy Transport: Well Ventilated Back, Load Adjuster Straps, Chest Straps Environmental Measurements: B ratingCO2: 4.2kg, Resource Depletion 31.7g Sb Durability 10yr Guarantee

Following is the list of 28 different features that I could use is my backpack. It explains the usability of the features and the materials that I could use for those components:

MORPHOLOGY Determining design needs

CRITERIA FEATURES

USABILITY

AESTHETIC

ALTERNATES 1

Steady Back Mesh

Well Ventilated Back

Bamboo/Cane woven Mesh

2

Waist Strap

Easy Transport + Stability

Cotton Canvas + Coir with holes + Soft Burlap Fabric

3

Chest Strap

Easy Transport + Stability

Cotton Canvas + Coir mat padding + Soft Burlap Fabric

4

Rain Cover

All weather use

5

DIY Compartments

Personalised Sorting

6

Mesh Pocket

Easy Storage

7

Water Bladder

Easy Access + Comfort

8

H2O Hole

Easy Access + Comfort

Canvas hole or Terracotta or Bamboo hole

MP3 Player Hole

Easy Access + Comfort

Canvas hole or Terracotta or Bamboo hole

Attached Pillow

Easy Transport + Comfort

9 10

Nylon, Foldable,Colourful, Light, Thin Water Hyacinth + Arreca Padded + Velcro Linen/Jute Mesh Thinned Coconut Shell

Coir padding becomes pillow

Analysis | 41

CRITERIA FEATURES

USABILITY

AESTHETIC

ALTERNATES 11

Full Length Zips

Easy Access + Storage

Regular or Conceled Zips

12

15.4� Laptop Sleeve

Laptop Case

Khas/Coir/Cotton Canvas/Linen

13

Hard Case

Protect Laptop + Camera

Arecca/Bamboo or Banana Weaving

14

Smaller Sleeves

Ipad Case

Khas/Coir/Cotton Canvas/Linen

15

Hip Stabilizer Belt

Easy Transport + Stability

Cotton Canvas + Coir with holes + Soft Burlap Fabric

16

Drink Holder

Easy Storage

Jute + Linen Mesh or Treated Shittal Patti + Rubber Elastic

17

Slip in Pockets

Easy Storage

Shittal Patti/Jute/Linen/SIlk/ Cotton/

18

Adjustable Padded Straps

Ergonomic

Arecca+ Coir with holes + Soft Contton Canvas + Burlap Fabric

Pole Loop

Easy Transport

19 20 42 | Analysis

Concealing Straps

Visually Appealing

Banana Bark Clean & Neat

CRITERIA FEATURES

USABILITY

AESTHETIC

ALTERNATES 21 22 23

Fresh Smelling Laundry pocket Foam Paded Back Detachable Compartments

Easy Maintainence

Khas + Fabric to give it scent

Ergonomic Back Easy Storage Easy Transport

Arecca + Water Hyacinth/Khas/Coir Feels like part of body

24

Skin Smooth Material

25

Thumb Loops

Hand Rest

Banana Bark

26

Light Weight

Easy Transport

Bamboo/Cane/Coir etc.

27

Wide Openning

Easy Access

28

Convertible into Hand Carriage

Convenience + Visual

Falls down when openned.

Option for part openning Bamboo/Banana Bark/Water Hyacinth/Canvas

Analysis | 43

MADPAX BLOK Detailed Analysis: Kids Block Backpack

PRODUCT ATTRIBUTES User: Intermittent User, Professional User Demography: 6+ Children, & Intermittent Adult Users Psychography: Children can use it daily as school backpacks, And adults can use it when in need for a change over their usual boring backpacks.

Cult Graph: Carrrying to school, Office, Occasional Carriage, etc.

Design Ratio: 3(aesthetics): 3(function): 2(ergonomics) Physiognomy: Simple, Easy to use, Exciting, Bold, playful, fun.

Physiography: Sturdy, Spandex/Polyester body, Light Weight, Carries laptop & additional daily equipment Physiology: 18”H X 14”W X 8”D, Wt: 1.6 LB. Backwall zipper pocket for added storage, Side zipper pockets for accessories, Mesh back lining for breathability, Metal blok zipper detailing. All parts Industrially stitched, Main Body Moulded, ID window at back Usability: School, College & Office Use; Easy to usage & Access Recyclability: Partly Recyclable, Durable.

Technicality: Polyester/spandex blend, Lined with polyester/nylon.

Zippers are smooth functioning nylon, Holds 17” Laptop, 3D Block Texture MARKET Depth: Backpack collection: STYLE- Spiketus Rex, Later Gater, Bubble, Blok Breadth: SIZE variation in Packs- Full Pack, Half Pack, Nibbler, Packaccessories.

Packaging: No assigned Packaging Retail Experience: MadPax represents the evolution of the backpack.

“We rock 3D backpacks and accessories that are two parts funk, a pound of punk and a dash of double dare. MadPax are for kids of ALL ages, yes that means you. Express yourself and that inner creature with all the pouches and pockets that make no concession to utility.”

44 | Analysis

SYNTACTIC ANALYSIS Advantages: 1. Light Weight & Durable 2. Doesn’t contain too many parts 3. Is multipurpose & can be used by all ages 6+ 4. Interactive form for the autistic & specially abled Disadvantages: 1. Outside surface is difficult to clean 2. Cannot carry a lot of weight 3. Not completely rain proof SEMANTIC ANALYSIS Context: School, College, Office & Daily use Spirit: Exciting, Bold, Fun, Simple.

Form Analogy: Sturdy Look, 1 Main Compartment, 2 Side Pockets, Blocks PRAGMATIC ANALYSIS General Sequence: 1. Store required daily equipment eg: binder, books, laptop & lunch box.

2. Carry on shoulders & Put Chest Strap.

3. Press it down to compress & store when empty.

4. Use wet cloth to clean.

Advantages: 1. Ease of packing & Unpacking due to limited applications.

Disadvantages: 1. No special compartment for water bottles

SYNTACTIC ANALYSIS Advantages: 1. Sleek & Durable 2. Ample storage space 3. Takes care of appearance

MINAAL Detailed Analysis: Carry On Backpack

User: Professional User, Expert User Demography: Working Professionals Psychography: For adults who want to carry equipment when on road yet look professional Cult Graph: Hiking, Road Trip, Business Trip, etc.

Design Ratio: 2(aesthetics): 3(function): 3(ergonomics) Physiognomy: Simple, Easy to use, Highly Functional, Innovative, Safe, Sleek, duffel-style Physiography: Protective neoprene sleeves, Full Length Zips, Carries laptop, Electronics, Cloths, etc.

Physiology: 21.65 x 13.77 x 7.87(in), Wt: 3.08LB Lie-Flat Packing, Zip away Straps, A seam-sealed rain cover, suspended sleeve, 4-way main strap adjustment & extra-length, adjustable chest strap, removable webbing hip stabiliser strap, adjustable, clip-away sternum strap, All parts Industrially stitched.

Usability: Hiking, Road Trip, Business Trip Use; Easy to usage & Access Recyclability: Partly Recyclable, Durable.

Technicality: 500D Cordura; 1000D Cordura; 210D Nylon Interior Lining; 2mm Neoprene; Soft Lining (phone pocket), YKK zips, Duraflex and Woojin

Disadvantages: 1. Form is boxy SEMANTIC ANALYSIS Context: Travel Spirit: Fast, Productive, Happy.

Form Analogy: Smart Look, 2 Main Compartments, Many pockets, Easy access sleeves.

PRAGMATIC ANALYSIS General Sequence: 1. Open & Pack like in a suitcase 2. Store all travel equipment eg: electronics, cloths, toiletries, documents, etc.

3. Carry on shoulders, Put Chest Strap & waist strap. Or cover shoulder straps & carry like a briefcase 4. Cover with rain cover when raining 5. Access based on requirements 6. Use wet cloth to clean.

Advantages: 1. Faster packing & Unpacking 2. Easy travel Disadvantages: None noticed

buckles, removable rain cover, removable hip stabiliser belt, fits up to 15-inch Macbook Pro, with strap to hold smaller units safely. Second sleeve holds up to MacBook Air 11-inch, Bottle Holder with adjustable cord, Internally-bound seams, Capacity: 35L MARKET Depth: Only Minaal Backpack Breadth: Only Minaal Backpack Packaging: Seam Sealed Rain Cover Retail Experience: “We don’t want to make just one bag. We want to build a long-term business that truly cares about the travel experience - and you, the committed traveller.”

To make your travels faster, happier and more productive.

Analysis | 45

BACKPACK INTERVIEW Insights & Opportunity Areas

‘‘Backpacks cause so much sweating.’’ ‘‘I wish I could remove some sections when I did not need it’’ ‘‘It is so annoying to put my hands in the front compartment and search for something’’

‘‘I never find my things in the exact same place I placed in.’’

‘‘I need an in-built fan in my bag!.’’ ‘‘I never found the perfect backpack strap’’ 46 | Analysis

Based on ineterview and analysis, I decided to focus on two opportunity areas: • •

Problems of carrying a backpack Helping with organisation.

OPPORTUNITY AREAS Organization & Carrying

Making Backpack convenient to caryy

Helping with oragnising

Carrying: Most of the time when you carry your equipments in a regular backpack, the things inside tend to naturally lean back to adjust with the center of gravity.

Research shows that it easier to carry your backpack when the compartments are slanted against your back.

Organisation: Research and interviews show that people are unsatisfied with the level of organisation their backpack offer. Especially, when people use the everyday pack for one day trips, they find it annoying to arrange their backpack specific to their requirements.

Solution: My desired approach was to make all the compartments in my backpack at a slant of 105deg.

Solution: My desired approach was to have simple light weight organizer with different sections. I planed to make it out of rubberized coir and also keep it detachable. Such that the user can use it as per convenience.

Analysis | 47

EXPLORATION

48 | Exploration

BIRTH OF A STUDIO Collecting Materials & Experimenting

Over a period of time I started collecting a lot of differnt materials like Arecca, Shittal Patti, Gulmohar Pods, Luffa Gourd, Coir Sheat, COir Rolls, Banana Bark, Banana Rope, Water Hyacinth, Korai Grass, Vetiver and many more.

Soon there was no space in my room to store them.

So I cleared a big unused washing area and converted it into my personal studio. The space had its perks. I had very convenient access to different water supply areas, one, a sink and the other a washing area with a tap where I could easily soak and wash my big materials. And it was perfectly quiet and well ventilated One part of studio had an ironing table so that I could experiment with heat pressing. It had various kinds of glue and eventually more than 10 liters of the solution that STV developed.

It was the perfect space to treat and process my materials. I have spent many of my late nights there exploring with different materials.

Exploration | 49

TREATMENTS Solution Soaking

Many materials have been treated with the available solution, in order to alter their property and then use them for further applications MATERIALS: Arecca Sheet, Korai Grass Mat, Shittal Patti Mat, Regular Pods, Gulmohar Pods, Banana Bark, Banana Bark, Banana Rope, Water Hyacinth, etc.

OUTCOME: Arecca, Water Hyacinth, etc. showed the usual softening and has the potential to be used further, Korai Grass showed a slight change in softness but no other visible difference was seen, Shittal Patti showed an interesting change in colour making it much darker and also much softer, Banana Bark showed a considerable softness after 72hrs but thicker sheets still crack slightly when folded against the grains.

50 | Exploration

Insights & Learnings: Luffa: The board seemed stiff and it retained some sponginess. It has the potential to be used for the ergonomic details in a backpack.

PROCESSING Collecting Materials & Experimenting

Luffa Gourd

Gluing Wet Areca Leaf & Softened Shittal Patti

De-seeding, Flattening & then Gluing it together

Heating & pressing, such that wet Areca loses water & moulds into the shape of the utensil.

Arecca + Shittal Patti Combination: The Arecca becomes very hard while Shittal Patti remai ned soft in the middle offering it a flexibility and scope for some folding and movement. Such a combination could work well for a hard case backpack. I also noticed that the direction of grains of Arecca need to be taken care of while combining, or else after drying it might shrink and change shape.

After Pressing & Heat Ironing

Heat Air Drying to fix the moulding

Stiff board with decent cushioning property

Resulted combination is soft & foldable in the middle & is rigid & strong at both sides

Exploration | 51

MOCK-UPS Material Understanding

In the picture above, the mockup is made of Shittal Patti stitched with cotton canvas and one edge has been attached to a zipper. Here, I was trying to see if Shittal Patti can even be stitched. After that I tried to explore if the same material can be curved and stitched in a way that it forms its own shape.

Eventually I did use Shittal Patti in design. Shittal Patti when folded in one direction like in the picture above it becomes less fexible and leads to space wastage hence I did not use that technique in my final design.

The left hand side mock-up is small scale backpack made up of Heated Arecca, Shittal Patti, fabric and Scotch Brite(Mock-coir). It was made to explore two things- To see if a combination of two materials like Arecca and Shittal Patti is possible, and to understand if Arecca can be heat moulded to work as a hard case backpack.

52 | Exploration

MOCK-UPS Understanding Dimensions & Visual Appeal The above mock-up was made to see how a woven base would look. Here I also tried stitching Banana Rope, Arecca and Scotch Brite together.

The bottom mock-up is to understand the basic dimensions of backpack with a slanted laptop compartmet.

Here I have also tried to if Palm Leather can be cut and stitched into triangles such that it offers flexibility and visual appeal to a compartment.

Nylon Back with pockets where mockbamboo made up of wire and paper is used to understand the dimensions of the back

Ventilated Back mock-up made up of waste fabric, paper, canvas and srotch brite to understand dimensions of the ventilated back

The same mock-up was later used for a visual explanation to the workers stitching my prototypes.

Exploration | 53

BACKPACK STRAPS Trying different techniques

This was an early exploration of a backpack strap. Here I have glued and stapled Palm Leather for strength, treated Banana Bark for ventilation and banana rope for cushioning and flexibility.

Feedback: The straps were very stiff 54 | Exploration

STRAPS & HANDLE

In the mock-up above I have tried to make a top handle of a backpack by combining linen, banana bark and water hyacinth.

Feedback: Water Hyacinth offers grat cushion-

On the left hand side is my second exploration of Backpack Straps. Here I stitched Linen for vetilation, Woolen Door Mat for cushioning and flexibility and banana bark for adding strength and thickness. It was stitched in a pattern such that it doesn’t tear the banana bark.

Feedback: The triangular stitching was really appreaciated. Overall, people liked the strap.

Exploration | 55

IDEATION

56 | Ideation

DOODLES Part of 100 Ideas

Ideation | 57

SKETCHES

Woven Front for hard case

Ventilated Back

58 | Ideation

Bamboo Framework

FORM EXPLORATION Ventilated Back, Side & Front View of Backpack

Ideation | 59

FINAL DESIGN Palm Leather Triangles Detachable Organizer

Slanted Laptop Compartment

Woven Front for hard case

Waist Strap

60 | Ideation

FEEDBACK Feedback: • Simplify the designs such that essence of the materials are shown.

• It is becoming a backpack design and not a material design.

• Explore forms based on the feel of the Backpack.

• There should be a more intuitive approach to material application.

• Keep in mind material and time constraints.

• Source materials, but be prepared f=to work with alternates and change of plans.

• Be prepared to deal with all the road bloack of prototyping • Don’t get too lost is problem solving, the project isn’t about that. Problems can be solved eventually.

• Create paper patterns of the design, to explain it to the tailors

Skype feedback session: Tjeerd showing me stitching tricks toget the desired form.

Ideation | 61

This was the point where I revisited the brief and realized that my project wasn’t about designing backpack at all.

TURNING POINT Revisiting the brief

Backpack was just a meduim through which I had to potray the values of natural fibers. It was meant to be just a product that offered me enough industrial challenges on my way.

My original aim was to increase the value of the fibers and not of a backpack.

‘‘Not Form follows Function, Or Function follows Form.’’

So with a stone on my heart, I changed my approach to the project and decided to intuitively approach the materials and arrive at a design that holds the essense of the fibers.

I immediately eliminated complicated design solutions. And went back to the first hard case mock-up and decided take that forward in new way.

‘‘Form and Function both follows Material.’’

‘‘Project wasn’t about designing Backpacks’’ 62 | Ideation

This was difficult decision, as I usually follow very methodical design process, but I learnt that the project needed something more, something different, in order to do justice to it.

SKETCHES PART 2 Form Exploration

Ideation | 63

SIMPLIFYING Single Compartment Backpack

64 | Ideation

HARD CASE BACKPACK With Arecca Triangles + Ventilated Back

Ideation | 65

EXPLODED VIEW Of the Final Design

66 | Ideation

Water Hyacinth for Laptop Cushioning, especially becaus e of its cooling properties

OTHER INTUITIVE IDEAS Derived from materials

Woven Bamoo base for the pack, to keep it strong, sturdy and bears wear and tear.

Nylon Rain Cover with Lined Khas Vetiver, such that when it rains, it not only gives you protection but also lets out a nice, refreshing smell.

Small piece of Birch Bark in ID Card slots in Childrens Backpack, such that children can hand-write there details in it, and it will give the feel old Birch Manuscripts Ideation | 67

CONCEPT And Inspiration

Nostalgia: The purpose of my design and usage of materials lends itself to induce a sense of nostalgia over time.

Woven Cane furniture were used for generations, until it got replaced with plastic weaves.

Woven cane is strong, encourages ventilation and offers perfect support. But apart from the strength of this material, I also wanted the material to trigger some form of an emotional attachment or reminder over time.

Properties of Material: Each component of backpack is designed by keeping in attention the strengths of the natural fibers used.

For example: Rubberized coir offers great ventilation, it has a long life, and provides cushioning property. Thus, rubberized coir is used in the padding of the straps, ventilated back and laptop compartment. It is not only comfortable, it will possibly help with bodily sweat reduction.

In a similar way Bamboo is used for the framework of the backpack because it is strong, flexible, durable and naturally water proof.

68 | Ideation

MOOD BOARD

Ideation | 69

Properties Used: Ventilation, Durability, Supporting, Long Lasting, Nostalgic.

Application: Ventilated back that reminds you of old chairs

SHORTLISTED MATERIALS Based on availability and material constraints

Woven Cane

Properties Used: Porousity, Cushioning, Long Lasting, Light Weight Application: Overall Backpack Padding

Properties Used: Rectangular Surface, Visual appeal Application: Covering of the backpack straps

Rubberized Coir

Arecca & Palm Leather

Properties Used: Texture, Flexibility, Hardness, Moulding potential.

Application: Flexible Compartment, Hard Flap

Treated Banana Bark

Properties Used: Flexibility, Strength, Durability, Water Proofing.

Application: Backpack Framework

Bamboo 70 | Ideation

Properties Used: Flexibility, Large Surface, Nostalgia Application: Back of the Backpack, Bottle Pouch.

Shittal Patti

Problems Faced

SOURCING MATERIALS Making 20 Phone Calls a day

Asked for this

Got THIS after 10 days!

Banana Bark

Couriored by ROPE, Madurai

Arecca

From STV’s Palm Leather Unit

Bamboo & Cane Bamboo Bazaar. & Shivaji Nagar

Rubberized Coir

Ripped from an Old Cushion

Shittal Patti

The Ants, bangalore Ideation | 71

PROTOTYPE MAKING

72 | Prototyping

PREPARATION For the first prototype stitching

Mess before the big day After contacting lots of people, I finally got in touch with Mr. Nityanand, a Backpack factory owner, and he asked me to get my design and materials the next day.

In order to prepare for that I made Paper Patterns of each component, in the right sizes. Then I cut all the natural fibers as per required, and treated the Arecca and Palm Prototyping | 73

Introducing Ganga!

PROCESS First Prototype Ganga stitching the ventilated back.

First Backpack Strap being made

Mr. Hebbal, Gramya After seeing the Rubberized Coir, Palm Leather and other materials Mr. Nityanand thought that his workers won’t have any idea about stitching those materials and won’t do a good job of it.

So he put me in touch with Mr. Hebbal, the founder of Gramya. Gramya is an organization that provides livehood to women in need and teaches them crafts, which get made into handicraft products. Since Mr. Hebbal’s workers had better experience working with natural fibers, I went to meet Mr. Hebbal.

After passionate long discussions with him about the great potential of natural fibers, I got to making the first prototype.

Mr. Hebbal assigned a Tailor to me to help aid the process.

74 | Prototyping

Semi treated Arecca being stitched for the flap.

Rubberized coir compartment getting stitched.

Fingers Crossed!

Triangular Palm Leather getting stitched for the pouch.

Shittal Patti Back stitched in combination with rexin

Bamboo Framework

Machines getting jammed because of my ‘unusual’ materials

Almost done, let’s eat!

Bamboo framework getting fixed

Prototyping | 75

Workers at the factory

FINISHING First Prototype Finishing touches

Attaching the ventilated back

Piping

(R to L) Mr. Nityanand & his father, Elegant Bags After an almost finished first prototype I went back to Mr. Nityanand to get the straps and buckles stitched to the prototype.

Mr. Nityanand owns a Backpack Factory called Elegant Bags in Mysore Road. My experience of working with the workers there was very different from that in Gramya. Tailors at Nityanand’s factory paid more attention to finishing and did not recoganize most of the natural fibers used in the backpack.

I really liked the effieciency and fast pace of the workers there. And I returned home with the first completed prototype on my shoulders.

76 | Prototyping

FIRST PROTOTYPE

Prototyping | 77

Hard Case Flap

78 | Prototyping

Collapsible Front Pocket

Bamboo Framework

Laptop compartment at a slant

Prototyping | 79

FEEDBACK & LEARNINGS First Prototype

Feedback: • You have understood a complex design, now try a simple one • Still trying to solve problems • Use the triangular arecca pattern somwhere where its properties are properly used.

• Understand how a backpack is made, such that there is more neatness and finishing.

• The semi hard case flap doesn’t work because it is not industrially heat moulded and hence weak • Backpack is perfect sample of showing the potential of natural fibers • First prototype helped me and the workers to understand how the material reacts and how to approach it in the second prototype.

• So much rubberized cushioning isn’t necessary • The green Jute doesn’t work

With the learnings in mind, I sketched more and went ahead to make a second more simplied prototype.

80 | Prototyping

PROCESS Second Prototype Ventilated Back

Triangular Flexible Front Flap made out of Palm

Shittal Patti front with Nylon combination

Front Pouch

Prototyping | 81

SECOND PROTOTYPE

82 | Prototyping

Prototyping | 83

84 | Prototyping

USER PERSONA

Raghav Shetty

Raghav is a 25 year old Art Director living in Bangalore.

He works at a theatre 3kms from his place.

He cycles to work everyday and carries a rucksack along.

It holds his daily necessities like a bottle of water, basic art material, a change of clothing and some days his Macbook.

Raghav is a conscious consumer and likes his everyday products to be quirky and attractive. He also prefers his day to day products to be very functional.

His current backpack that he takes to work is attractive but oversized, and he is bored of using it for 2 years.

When Raghav travels for long hours for work related things, he carries his same rucksack and stuffs it as per required.

Prototyping | 85

DESIGN SPECIFICATIONS First Prototype

Total cost for production for 2 Packs: Approx. Rs.2500

Day Backpack

Age Group: 13+ For older children, office goers and half day trips.

Designed for carrying everyday basic equipments Capacity: L 47cm x W 30cm x D 15cm Easy Storage: Pockets: 2 inner, 2 outer + Water bottle Pocket + Pole Loop + Water Bladder Easy Transport: Well Ventilated Back, Load Adjuster Straps, Chest Straps Materials used: Bamboo, Cane, Laminated Jute, Palm Leather, Banana Bark, Banana Mat, Shittal Patti, Rubberized coir, Nylon, Rexin and Binding tape.

86 | Prototyping

THE DUTCH DESIGN WEEK EXHIBIT

Design Week | 87

It was a very happy and proud moment of my project, when Tjeerd asked me to make a contribution to his Palm Leather unit displayed in the Dutch Design Week 2014.

So along with the presentation contatining my Diploma Project’s early ideation, exploration and mockup-ups, my 3rd years Banana Leaf project was also shocased at the Design week.

Following are some of the pictures of the exhibit:

88 | Design Week

Design Week | 89

JUST THE BEGINNING

This is just the beginning of a long prototyping journey.

My future prototypes will be first aimed at simplification and then trying innovative concepts like a backpack without any locks- ‘The Envelope Pack’.

Eventually when the essense of the natural fibers is completely established, then I will get to solving Backpack problems like putting a detachable organisational system.

I truly believe that components like bamboo framework, cane ventilated back, Palm leather flaps, applications like these have a very strong potential to become a part of the Industrial Backpack making and bring about a change.

90 | Further Possibilities

Mr. Prasanna from Rope, Madurai, thank you for your time and a welcomed stay in Madurai. And also for supplying many different materials and courioring them to me when I needed it.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

I have a long list of people to thank, without whome this project wouldn’t have been successful.

I would first and foremost like to thank Studio Tjeerd Veenhoven for offering this great opportunity and learning experience to me.

The studio not only gave me a great project and complete sponsorship, but also helped fullfill my dream of completing my graduation.

A special thanks to my mentors Janak Mistry, Surbhi Singhal and Tjeerd Veenhoven for their constant critical feedback in order to keep me in the right path.

I would like to specially thank two complete strangers from Delhi, whom I found online, they selflessly put in extensive efforts to help and supply me with the perfect rubberized coir. They did not even charge me for it! It gives me immense joy just to know people like them exist.

I would like to thank my peers, Tanushree for amazing photography and design support, Adiba for her useful stitching skills and for lending me a perfectly old backpack to rip apart, Radhika for looking at the written material, Sreeja for being the perfect Comitted Listner.

Sabyasachi and Shiv for being my stress busters.

I would also like to thank my family for believing in my education and friends for their love and support.

And last but not the least Srishti and its faculties especially Supradip, Mr. Narendra and Kumar for their valuable involvement and feedback.

I would also like to thank all those amazing people and organizations in Bangalore who helped me through the hectic process of prototyping.

A special thanks to Mr. Hebbal for lending me his valuable time and patience. And Mr. Nityanand who would let me come to his factory at the last minutes notice and get all the finishing work done efficiently. Then I would like to thank the tailors Ganga, Gireesh, Prasad, Girija and all the others whose names I never got to know.

A heartfelt thanks to Sadashivan who unknowingly inspired me and enthusiastically showed me the importance of solving many small problems when prototyping.

I would like to thank the people who helped me source all the necessary materials for my project. Pradip from The Ants, for his time and The Ants for providing me with Shittal Patti.

Acknowledgements | 91

http://www.tenthousandvillages.com/baskets http://vector.me/search/cartoon-messy-room

BIBLIOGRAPHY

http://whisperingwindsbamboo.wordpress. com/2010/03/12/bending-bamboo/ http://dir.indiamart.com/impcat/coir-pot.html http://www.lalaessentialoils.com/vetiver-oils.html http://www.experience-essential-oils.com/vetiver-essential-oil.html

Image Links: https://www.flickr.com/photos/mckaysavage/5183879803/ :http://monchashablog.wordpress.com/

http://wildearthintegration.com/ http://www.designboom.com/design/bamboo-furnituresystems/

:http://www.skgf.asia/SKGF/bohbrands.html

http://www.ubora.in/?q=handicrafts

http://makezine.com/craft/interns_corner_yarn_hunt_ pinea/

Research Links: http://ivarpack.com/

: http://cdni.llbean.com/is/image/ wim/225839_0_41?wid=428&hei=494

Books referred:

http://blackbrownleatherbags.blogspot.in/2013/09/theevolution-of-backpack-school-bags_3.html http://blogs.telegraph.co.uk/news/andrewmcfbrown/100046008/the-parents-who-let-their-childrencycle-to-school-alone-deserve-praise-not-the-socialservices/ http://jeancornell.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/42117_backpacks-children-first-dayschool.jpg : http://media.gizmodo.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/0 3/17hg7qxooixupjpg.jpg http://www.orlandotrend.com/nike-max-air-ultimatumred-black-backpack-bag-17-inch-laptop 92 | Bibliography

Paul Jackson’s Folding Techniques for Designers

Diploma Project 2014

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