Outback adventures final

Outback Adventures

A Diamond

in the Desert How Diamond Rozakeas, the Aussie-born Greek Melbourne Cafepreneur Discovered the True Heart of Australia’s Outback through the Spectacular Sights and Extraordinary People she met from Alice Springs, to Uluru (Ayers Rock) Mutitjulu and Beyond Read about Diamond’s adventure of a lifetime as she journeys to one of the Wonders of the World and experiences the breathtaking Outback landscapes and serendipitous meetings with: The Indigenous elder and traditional land owner ‘Uncle’ Bob Randall, Internationally famous for his Kanyini philosophy, songs and books The Ugandan social worker who is turning young indigenous lives around, Rosemary Egan Nampijinpa, the big-hearted, renowned Indigenous artist, The Argentinean author who fell in love with the kids of the famed Papunya community, The Indigenous community of Mutitjulu, desperately fighting for its life, And many more remarkable people

Holiday of a Lifetime Diamond Rozakeas, the successful Melbourne businesswoman, chose an Outback ‘holiday’ which opened her eyes to extraordinary beauty as well as distressing injustice; it inspired the spirit of Filotimo in her

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t’s not everyone’s idea of a holiday, but Diamond Rozakeas, co-owner of awardwinning cafes. Top Paddock (Richmond) and The Kettle Black (South Melbourne), chose the 44˚C heat of Alice Springs and Uluru for a recent one week break. She was also invited to experience life in the remote indigenous community of Mutitjulu.

The experience both shocked and inspired her.

Diamond’s trip, with her brother Stratis, indigenous friends Tjanara Goreng Goreng and Paul Collis and writer Brian James, was also a series of encounters with truly remarkable people.

Starting just hours after arriving in Alice Springs they attended a book launch and met the first of these characters, Blair McFarland.

Diamond and her fellow travellers were invited to Mutitjulu by the legendary elder ‘Uncle’ Bob Randall, and Tjanara Goreng Goreng, an indigenous academic from Canberra who has been visiting the community since the mid 1980’s.

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The Former Snake catching lawyer turned Crusader A law graduate from Melbourne, Blair has notched up thirty years in the ‘Alice’ after arriving in the town as a snake catcher! These days he heads up CAYLUS (Central Australian Youth Link Up Service), an organization which promotes anti petrol sniffing programs amongst indigenous youth.

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“Here’s this erudite, affable man who gave up a comfortable, privileged city life to follow his purpose and make a difference in the lives of underprivileged young aborigines. Such a selfless individual,’ Diamond said.

The South American who captured Outback Smiles Blair McFarland’s organisation sponsored Papunya Smiles, a book about the indigenous children of the

Papunya arts community. The book was written and photographed by Tamara Burlando, originally from Argentina.

Tamara and her partner Be, spent three years as social workers in Papunya, three hours northwest of Alice Springs.

In what most people would find incredibly challenging conditions, they fell in love with the country and its people. The feeling was mutual.

Their son Milo was born in the community. He was recognised as a tjupi child, given a traditional ‘smoking’ ceremony and bush name related to a special site on this land – the ultimate compliment.

A quote from Tamara’s book Papunya Smiles beautifully sums up her feelings toward the community.

‘Just how much I have learnt from the people of Papunya I am yet to fully comprehend, but I know how happy I am in becoming a part of this large family and how much love I have received.’

Tamara Burlando and Diamond

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From Uganda to Uluru and Beyond. The ‘BushMob’ social worker showing wayward indigenous kids how to get back on the track to success

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Diamond and Duncan The next remarkable person Diamond came across was at the oasis-like Ellery Creek water hole, an hour out of Alice Springs.

Standing in the middle of the picturesque water hole framed by steep shards of rock, was a stocky adult surrounded by boisterous indigenous children. Another group of these energetic, cheeky kids were jumping off trees into the water.

It was a snapshot of normal kids doing normal things; but looks can be deceiving, as Diamond quickly discovered.

Diamond learnt that these innocent-looking kids aged from 10-14, were all ‘juvees’, slang for juvenile delinquents from a residential program in Alice Springs run by an organisation called BushMob. The boys are from indigenous communities throughout the Northern Territory and have been involved in drug, alcohol, and/or criminal offences.

This was explained to Diamond by ‘Duncan’, a gentle, powerfully-built Ugandan social worker who is their carer.

The boys are part of a ‘diversion’ program which gives them sixteen weeks experience across a range of activities, perhaps their last chance.

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‘It’s their opportunity to behave and get back on the straight and narrow. If they do that they can return to their communities,’ Duncan said.

He told Diamond that as young as the kids were - some just ten years of age, they had done some ‘very bad things’.

She was impressed with the way Duncan handled these wayward youths, but also observed that he could be firm when he needed to be – tough love.

Diamond was concerned about what lay ahead for these indigenous ‘juvees’.

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‘You look at these energetic kids and you think of their great potential. There’s a cheekiness and confidence; you just hope that they can stay on the right track. I’m full of admiration for people like Duncan and the BushMob who give these kids a second chance,’ Diamond said.

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The Art of New Friends At the famous night markets in Alice Springs, Diamond walked along the gallery of indigenous artists and their artworks sitting on the grass strip on the Todd Street Mall. She was immediately captivated by two striking paintings meticulously done by Rosemary Egan Nampijinpa.

Diamond was later to learn that Rosemary is one of Australia’s premier indigenous artists from a famous family. Her father Teddy Egan (Jangala), is an Elder and worked as a police tracker. Both her father and grandfather are well known artists. She learnt to paint from them at an early age when the family was ‘back at the bush’ in Ali Curung (West of Alice Springs).

Rosemary enthusiastically explained the ‘dreaming’ stories of each artwork. So impressed was Diamond that she purchased both on the spot.

Rosemary paints her Dreaming Stories about Water Dreaming, including the events of water in the desert and the features of her land.

The Greek Australian entrepreneur and the charismatic indigenous artist struck up an immediate rapport, prompting Rosemary to spontaneously embrace Diamond. It was a special moment.

She has been involved in the Art Centres in her communities at Ali Curing and Yuendemu. Her artworks are popular and featured in Alice Springs art galleries as well as interstate and international collections.

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Next stop was Uluru (Ayers Rock) and Yulara (the resort) a four and half hour drive from Alice Springs with spectacular desert views along the Stuart highway.

This was to be the most disorienting experience for Diamond, her brother Stratis and friends.

They stayed at the four-star Sails in the Desert resort at Yulara, (twenty minutes from Uluru or Ayers Rock).

With its manicured lawns, luxurious rooms and lavish banquets, the resort was a stark contrast to the local fenced-in indigenous community they saw at Mutitjulu, hidden from view, without signage, at the base of the majestic Rock.

No one talks about Mutitjulu or ‘Muti’ as it is known.

Most people never see it.

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The busloads of wealthy tourists would be horrified to know that this tragically impoverished ‘camp’ was just seconds away from their air conditioned, sanitised coach tours of the Rock. Yet, the traditional owners of the area, with their 50,000 year old history, so close, but so totally out of sight and mind.

‘Uncle’ Bob Randall Diamond and her fellow travellers were invited to Mutitjulu by the legendary elder ‘Uncle’ Bob Randall, and Tjanara Goreng Goreng, an indigenous academic from Canberra who has been visiting the community since the mid 1980’s.

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82-year-old ‘Uncle’ Bob lives at Mutitjulu.

A revered member of the stolen generation, he’s an acclaimed educator, author, storyteller, administrator, award-winning songwriter and a traditional owner of Uluru.

In 1999 ‘Uncle’ Bob was named Indigenous Person of the Year. He is the star of Kanyini, the award winning documentary which covers his life story and espouses the Kanyini philosophy - the connectedness, love and responsibility for all things.

One of the highlights of Diamond’s visit (and her friends) was witnessing a sunrise meditation with Bob from a hilltop at the edge of the community, literally a stone’s throw from the Rock. Bob gave

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blessings for our lives, the earth, the sun, moon and the stars.

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‘It was a magical experience with someone so connected to the past and the present, all in view of the magnificent ancient Rock’, she said.

Bob has spoken all over the world on the Kanyini philosophy and shared the stage with some of the world’s most famous spiritual leaders, including the Dalia Lama.

Even after recent major heart surgery, this legendary outback octogenarian is tireless, but haunted by the thought that he may be running out of time to help his people. It frustrates him.

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Kanyini Bob established the Kanyini Foundation to preserve the indigenous culture and ensure its continuity. The Foundation has many admirable and ambitious projects to lift the Mutitjulu community out of its present dire, circumstances. Sadly, due to a range of factors, few of the projects have come to fruition.

Sitting outside the modest house he shares with his American-born wife Barbara, Bob told Diamond that at one stage the population of ‘Mutu’ was around 800. It had jobs for the locals and a health centre, started by him, which had two doctors and half a dozen nurses. Back then the community was still hamstrung by many inter-generational problems.

Tjanara Goreng Goreng told Diamond that when she first visited Mutitjulu in the 1980’s, she saw dazed adults and children alike with cans around their necks sniffing petrol. It became an epidemic.

Alcohol was rampant as well and all the issues that accompany that addiction. Slowly the sniffing stopped and the community also became ‘dry’.

The community developed a pulse; motivation began to stir, but it was short-lived.

Over the years, legislation changed often and funds

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for various projects were decreased or withdrawn. The health centre was reduced to two part time nurses.

Jobs almost vanished, as did the population, now down to around 250.

There’s still a battle to get kids to school. Aimless all day and night card games pass the time of day for many adults. Grandparents often care for the children because their parents have moved to Alice Springs.

To the visitor of the enclosed community of Mutitjulu, there’s an obvious lack of motivation and care. The community is dying, literally.

‘The guts have been ripped out of the community,’ said one elder, even though there’s a handsome basketball court (funded by Nike) and a sparkling swimming pool, which Diamond and friends never saw anyone use during half a dozen visits to the community.

Locals tell you that since the ‘Intervention’ initiated

by Prime Minister John Howard, services have diminished, multiple levels of bureaucracy mean things get done at a glacial pace, except a gleaming police station , which cost $2.4 million and was constructed at warp speed.

Many believe the mining industry is waiting for the right conditions to exploit the great mineral wealth which lies below.

Challenging conditions When Tjanara Goreng Goreng arranged for Diamond to visit ‘Nana’ Barbara Tjikatu Winmarti’s house she was warned to expect some challenging conditions.

It was an uncomfortable sight. Rubbish scattered inside and out, broken amenities, multiple unkempt mattresses strewn everywhere, mangy dogs scavenging and an overriding unhygienic environment.

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‘In spite of the squalor, the large group of women who call this ‘home’, showed a deep sense of sisterhood,’ Diamond said.

The generous food hamper she brought along was eagerly set upon by the women. Food, especially fruit, vegetables and meat, are difficult to source and expensive at the local community supermarket.

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‘Food and nutrition is a problem and a factor in their health issues. It is difficult for them to understand about good nutrition when they can’t even afford the staples,’ Diamond said.

Housing is also problematic. The lifestyle, traditions and cultures of the locals don’t fit into the designs of the western-style housing. Their extended families often

mean some houses have up to twenty people living in them, yet they were built for only four or six people.

As you tour the community, packs of dogs scurry everywhere.

The carcases of old cars are dumped anywhere; it’s like a scene from a Mad Max movie.

Except for a few buildings, everything looks neglected.

For all the discomfort of her experience with the indigenous women she met at the house and observed when they visited the Sails resort at Yulara, Diamond found them to be shy, gentle and gracious. They were also very talented artists.

After many visits to the community during her stay in the area, and after numerous conversations with elders and community members, Diamond felt the consensus was to invest time in the children.

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‘Show them how nutrition and hygiene work so they can show their parents and elders. Give them something to do; lay the groundwork for a brighter future, rather than the bleak one which awaits them now,’ she implored.

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The Future As part of that ‘future,’ Diamond and her partners from the Top Paddock cafe in Melbourne are aiming to make a difference.

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‘We’d like to set up our own foundation working in conjunction with Bob (Randall’s) Kanyini foundation and the Mutitjulu community on a number of philanthropic programs,’ Diamond said.

Aware of the many past attempts by people to ‘make a difference’, she understands the challenges and blockages which will appear. It’s why she and the team are keen to work with existing programs and locals to ensure they have ownership and that any commercial ventures are viable and sustainable.

When asked ‘why bother’ when everything else has failed to lift these people out of their Third world conditions, Diamond provides an insight into her own Greek culture.

The Generous Spirit of Filotimo

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‘When you come face-to-face with substandard living conditions and the seeming injustices of it all, it affects you.

You have a choice; to return to your comfortable lifestyle and forget about it and say ‘it’s not my problem’- out of sight out of mind’, she said. ‘Or invoke the age-old Greek spirit of Filotimo, and without any expectation of personal gain, take action to make a difference in these marginalised people’s lives.’

It seems Diamond is not alone in wanting to do something to empower these forgotten people, after decades of neglect. A number of people have approached her with offers of help.

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‘Of course’, she says, ‘I would love the Greek community to support us too, in the spirit of Filotimo.’

Reflecting on her trip to Alice Springs, Uluru, Yulara and the magnificent sights, it was the extraordinary people she met along the journey which inspired her and touched her heart, especially ‘Uncle’ Bob Randall.

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“With support, I would love to help create something tangible which could magnify Bob’s already great legacy and give him and his people hope for the future,” she said.

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For those who would like to offer assistance with projects, Diamond can be contacted at diamond_rozakeas@hotmail.com MB +61 425 705 566 Written and produced by Brian James MB +61 410 414 770

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