United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine December 2009

THREE PERFECT DAYS: RIVIERA MAYA THE NHL’S POWER PLAY CAN STEVE JOBS DO IT AGAIN? PLUS: ARTIST GABRIEL OROZCO,

MYSTERY NOVELIST P.D. JAMES, SUPERCHEF JOSÉ ANDRÉS

A STAR ALLIANCE MEMBER

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09/11/2009 16:31

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13/10/2009 10:51

There is more to jewellery than how it looks.

Wellendorff has introduced another dimension... the feel.

Inspired by the desire to convey genuine values such as warmth, trust and love... that is how our new collection in gentle chocolate shades originated.

Cherish the feeling forever.

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13/10/2009 10:51

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12/11/2009 20:54

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12/11/2009 15:30

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Dec. 74

UNITED.COM | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

contents

GIRLS OF SUMMER

Three Chicagoans vie for the very first Olympic medals for women’s boxing when the sport debuts in 2012. Do they have what it takes?

BY TRICIA DESPRES PHOTOGRAPHS BY THOMAS CHADWICK

82

CRAZY TOURIST

Gabriel Orozco travels the world creating conceptual art that he hopes will disappoint viewers.

Fortunately for us, it doesn’t.

BY AARON GELL PORTRAITS BY FIONA ABOUD

The Riviera Maya has grown into a chic luxury destination. But in some places, refreshingly little has changed. 3PD | P. 88 88

THREE PERFECT DAYS: RIVIERA MAYA

With pristine beaches, outdoor adventure and a splash of ancient history, it’s no wonder this area became a hit with tourists. Now that tourism has slowed, it’s the perfect time to pay a visit.

P H O T O G R A P H BY E H R E N J O S E P H

BY MIKE GUY PHOTOGRAPHS BY EHREN JOSEPH

The cliffside cabañas of Azulik, in Tulum

HEM_1209_ToC.indd 1

YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY

11/11/2009 21:10

DECEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

departments

45

43

12 Contributors 15 Voices United President John Tague goes back to basics.

18 Connections United’s world gets bigger every day.

20 Wish You Were Here DISPATCHES 23 Notes From All Over Down the tubes at Las Vegas’ CityCenter; Tattoo tours are the talk of Stockholm; Los Angeles’ newest It-boy directs the philharmonic; performance artists in Istanbul seek people with retail experience; eating with your cabbie in Buenos Aires DIRECTIONS 29 News Where to stay, what to see, when to go 35 Goods Gizmos and gear 39 Whereabouts Mystery writer P.D. James uncovers Boston’s charm.

40 Whirlwind Five hours in Phoenix CULTURE 43 Diamond Anniversary Cartier celebrates 100 years of whimsical, over-the-top jewelry.

By Sarah Horne COVER IMAGE Laura Carlin // heartagency.com

HEM_1209_ToC.indd 2

44 Teen Spirit Fourteen-year-old Talia Leman has an impressive list of extracurriculars: swimming, soccer and running a nonprofit that’s helped kids in 20 countries.

By Layla Schlack 46 Do You Hear What I Hear? Big names like Bob Dylan and Sting aren’t likely to change holiday music’s reputation. And that’s just fine. // By K. Leander Williams 48 The Next Dimension Avatar could make 3-D the norm for Hollywood, but don’t expect paper glasses.

By Adam K. Raymond 50 Dream Machine Apple’s top-secret new release, a tablet, is generating more hype than, well, the last Apple release.

By Alyssa Giacobbe 52 Living Large Not just for decoration, a slew of new coffee table books are tantamount to a trip around the world. // By Aaron Gell 55 Ice Capades For the NHL, getting locked out of network television has led to an online revolution.

By Bryant Urstadt 59 The Incredible Shrinking Plate Tapas hotshot José Andrés is rendering the entrée obsolete.

By Adam Baer

63 Parental Guidance Rife with indiscriminate product placement, are mommy blogs really the place to turn for expert advice?

By Sarah Wildman 69 Ramblin’ Man The only downside to a lifetime of traveling is chronic antsiness. // By Martin Marks 73 Artifact A souvenir from the field PLAY 117 Movies, television and audio programming 128 Route Maps and Terminal Diagrams 140 Crossword, sudoku and quiz 146 In Transit Who’s sitting next to you?

147 Beverages & Food

WRITE TO US:

Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com HEMISPHERES MAGAZINE

68 Jay St. Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 SUBSCRIBE TO HEMISPHERES

For a free subscription to our monthly eMag and to access recent issues, go to HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

40

F R O M L E F T: P H O T O G R A P H S BY N I C K W E L S H /C O U R T E SY O F CA R T I E R , C L A I R E B E N O I S T, S A N D R A L . DYA S

44

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12/11/2009 16:59

New.

Quieter than ever before.

Introducing Bose QuietComfort 15 Acoustic Noise Cancelling headphones. ®

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Our best headphones. Since we introduced the world’s first noise cancelling headphones over 20 years ago, we have conducted continuous research to improve this technology. Now, we have engineered significant advances in noise reduction to make the QC®15 headphones our quietest ever. Exclusive Bose technologies electronically sense more of the sounds around you, reducing more noise across a wider range of frequencies. And we didn’t stop there. We developed a new ear cushion that further reduces unwanted noise. It works in harmony with the electronics to deliver a better listening experience and a comfortable fit.

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Try them for yourself risk free. When you fly, the engine roar fades even further away. When you listen to music at home or at work, fewer distractions get in the way. Less noise, along with our acclaimed lifelike sound, a fit that stays comfortable for hours and the quality you expect from Bose. It all adds up to a combination of benefits unmatched in the industry. So now you can relax and appreciate music, movies or just some serenity more than ever before. We invite you to try QC15 headphones for yourself risk free for 30 days. Shipping is free, and when you call, ask about making 12 easy payments, with no interest charges from Bose.* We’re so sure you’ll be delighted, we’ll even pay for return shipping if you’re not.

Welcome to an even quieter world.

To order or learn more:

1-800-760-4305, ext. Q7410 or visit Bose.com/QC

*Bose payment plan available on orders of $299-$1500 paid by major credit card. Separate financing offers may be available for select products. See website for details. Down payment is 1/12 the product price plus applicable tax and shipping charges, charged when your order is shipped. Then, your credit card will be billed for 11 equal monthly installments beginning approximately one month from the date your order is shipped, with 0% APR and no interest charges from Bose. Credit card rules and interest may apply. U.S. residents only. Limit one active financing program per customer. ©2009 Bose Corporation.

Patent rights issued and/or pending. The distinctive design of the headphone oval ring is a trademark of Bose Corporation. Financing and free shipping offers not to be combined with other offers or applied to previous purchases, and subject to change without notice. Offers are limited to purchases made from Bose and participating authorized dealers. Offer valid 8/20/09 – 12/31/09. Risk free refers to 30-day trial only and includes return shipping. Delivery is subject to product availability. C_007915

No.25720 Bose.indd 1

02/11/2009 12:35

DECEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

comments

12

HEMISPHERES EDITOR IN CHIEF Aaron Gell EXECUTIVE EDITOR Mike Guy ASSOCIATE EDITORS Adam K. Raymond, Layla Schlack

Feeling the Love It’s been six months since Hemispheres was relaunched. If the response so far is any indication, we’re on the right track.

THEY’RE SINGING OUR PRAISES ON BLOGS: “If you think about it, [an inflight]—done right—has the potential to publish only really fascinating, enlightening writing: the world is its topic, and after all, it has a kind of captive audience. United’s Hemispheres...keeps me awake, and makes me learn things I didn’t know before. Yesterday, when I realized I’d get to read a different issue of Hemispheres than the one on the plane I took to New Zealand last month, I actually got a little bit excited. I haven’t felt that way about reading a women’s magazine in years.”—JENNA, Jezebel.com “Mags We Heart...United’s Hemispheres is smart, voice-y, and well-designed—not to mention stocked with excellent stories. After a grueling fashion week, Chic is downright invigorated.”—CHIC REPORT, FashionWeekDaily.com THEY’RE FLOODING OUR INBOXES: “This is the first issue that I actually read more than one paragraph of an article… and one I look forward to reading cover to cover.... So, as I near my millionth mile in the sky (aboard, you guessed it, United), I’ll look forward to more installments of Hemispheres.”—NANCY HOBBS, Executive Director, American Trail Running Association “As much as I complain about traveling so much for work—I do it a lot—I found my most recent trip quite enjoyable once I picked up Hemispheres. Just about every article was relevant, interesting and thought-provoking.”

—CATHLEEN FLAHARDY, Editor in chief, InsideCounsel magazine

ART DIRECTOR Rob Hewitt DESIGNER Ellie Clayman PHOTO EDITOR Erin Giunta CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jane Black, Jason Fine, Jason Gay, Sarah Horne, Edward Lewine, Willa Paskin, Matt Thompson CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS Claire Benoist, Spencer Heyfron, John Lawton, Graham Roumieu EDITORIAL INTERNS Lizbette Ocasio-Russe GROUP EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Michael Keating US EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Orion Ray-Jones INK PUBLISHING, 68 Jay Street, Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 TEL: +1 347-294-1220 FAX: +1 917-591-6247

Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com hemispheresmagazine.com ONLINE TEAM Salah Lababidi, Martin Buhr, Andy Shaw ADVERTISING U.S. GROUP PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Steve Andrews SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGERS Al Loise, Catherine Hanson, Cynthia Carns, Emily Anton, Jonathan Ebert, Jorge Abadi REGIONAL REPRESENTATIVE HAWAII Robert Wiegand TEL: +1 808-587-8300

AND THEY’RE OFFERING UP COMMENTS AT HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM: In response to “To Hall and Back” (November 2009): “What a great article! I love Cooperstown, and you have captured your love of baseball wonderfully.”

INTERNATIONAL REPRESENTATIVES CHINA/JAPAN JOSEPHINE.HO@INK-PUBLISHING.COM TEL: +852 3541 9890

SE ASIA SHAZEEN.MOLEDINA@INK-PUBLISHING.COM

WHAT DO YOU THINK? ?

WRITE TO US: Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com HEMISPHERES MAGAZINE

TEL: +65 6302 2465

68 Jay St. Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201

EUROPE MARK.DUKE@INK-PUBLISHING.COM TEL: +44 20 7613 8796

MIDDLE EAST ANTHONY.AZOURY@INK-PUBLISHING.COM

Contributors

TEL: +44 20 7613 8798

PRODUCTION MANAGER Joe Massey TEL: +1 678-553-8091

PRODUCTION CONTROLLER Grace Rivera TEL: +1 678-553-8080 EXT 135

Ink Publishing (sales), Capital Building, 255 East Paces Ferry Road, Suite 400, Atlanta, GA 30305 TEL: +1 888-864-1733 FAX: +1 917-591-6247

Aboud, who photographed Gabriel Orozco (page 82), has shot for Sports Illustrated and Time. She’s currently working on a photo essay called “Sikhs in America.” “Each project fills my life with amazing new people,” she says.

FIONA ABOUD

HEM_1209_Contribs-Letters.indd 1

The author of The Greatest Hockey Stories Ever Told: The Finest Writers on the Ice is also a frequent contributor to ESPN The Magazine.

The die-hard hockey fan (page 55) says the greatest player ever is “a tie between my cousin Clem and my cousin-in-law Peter.”

BRYANT URSTADT

A travel, culture and opinion writer for The New York Times and The Guardian, Wildman says she could see becoming a mom blogger (page 63). “I’ve got a nine-month-old daughter, Orli,” she says. “We’ve been on a breast-feeding tour of the world.”

SARAH WILDMAN

INK PUBLISHING CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke COO Hugh Godsal PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Simon Leslie

HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by

Ink Publishing. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in HEMISPHERES are not necessarily those of the Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not accept any responsibility for advertising content. Any images are supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company or its products or services by United Airlines.

11/11/2009 20:33

Find Candy Cane Lane with Google Local Search on your Garmin.

™

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If you can find it with Google, nüvi 1690 can get you to it. This premium navigator links you to certain online content like Google Local Search, traffic, weather, fuel prices, movie listings, flight status ™

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and more through Garmin nüLink! services . Look up off-the-map destinations and nüvi 1690 will take you there. Plus, it’s the only navigator of its kind to include a free two-year data subscription to this content. Sweet deal. Learn more about nüvi 1690 and other ways to give a Garmin at www.garmin.com.

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nüLink! services only available in select coverage areas. Please visit www.garmin.com/automotive/nulink_coverage.html to view the nüLink! coverage map. Traffic services are available in select areas; for traffic coverage information please visit http://www.garmin.com/nulink/trafficcoverage

No.24556 Garmin.indd 1

Follow the leader.

02/11/2009 12:20

Now you can use your miles in more ways than ever before.

ALL MEMBERS CAN REDEEM MILES FOR:

Easily redeem your miles for hotels and cars. ®

• Hotel stays • Car rentals

Mileage Plus now lets all members turn miles into hotel stays and car rentals. Visit united.com/hotelandcarawards now to book your travel.

• Air travel awards

®

© 2009 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Terms and conditions: Hotel and car awards are available to all Mileage Plus members. United reserves the right to revise member eligibility at any time. Each member must have sufficient Mileage Plus miles in his or her account to complete the entire transaction. Redemptions may only be made from a single account per transaction. Redemptions for hotel stays and car rentals are non-refundable. Additional taxes and fees may apply. For full terms and conditions visit united.com/hotelandcarawards. Miles redeemed under the Mileage Plus Hotel and Car Awards Program are subject to the rules of the United Mileage Plus program. United Saver Awards are currently redeemable at 25,000 miles within the U.S. (excluding Hawaii) and Canada, United Standard Awards are currently redeemable at 50,000 miles within the U.S. (excluding Hawaii) and Canada. Taxes and fees related to award travel are the responsibility of the passenger. United, its subsidiaries, affiliates and agents are not responsible for any products and services of any participating companies and partners. United and Mileage Plus are registered services marks. For complete details about the Mileage Plus program, visit united.com.

House Ads_Dec09.indd 2

09/11/2009 11:33

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DECEMBER 2009

voices

15

Running a Good Airline

PH OT OG RA PH BY U NIT ED AI RL I NE S CR EAT IVE S ERVIC E S

United is rededicating itself to its core mission and is focused on keeping a steady course in turbulent times. // BY ROD O’CONNOR

HEM_1209_Voices.indd 1

TOUGH TIMES CAN PRESENT AN OPPORTUNITY to sharpen focus on what’s

important for the long haul. United is doing just that, says United Airlines President John Tague. For the last year, the company has been executing against a back-to-basics agenda designed to improve performance and competitiveness, and ultimately to make it an industryleading airline.

Many United leader voices have filled this column in the last 12 months, describing the work that is happening across the airline— whether it’s Kevin Knight, senior vice president of planning, describing the work to make the network that much stronger for customers, or Scott Dolan, senior vice president of airport operations, cargo and United Express, detailing the efforts under way to improve the airport experience. Those voices and the work they represent are united by a common goal—running a good airline for its customers.

Known internally as “Focus on 5,” the prioritization of efforts is a rallying cry for the entire organization to move in lockstep toward common goals of improving on-time performance, cleanliness, service, costs and revenue.

“We’re putting a stake in the ground that we will not settle for anything other than the best,” Tague says.

The company’s focus is paying off. Over the past year, United has gone from lagging behind to leading the industry in on-time performance. In fact, at press time, the airline had distributed more than

11/11/2009 20:20

DECEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

$22 million in incentive pay to eligible frontline employees in recognition of this accomplishment. In addition, the carrier’s aircraft condition, cleanliness and employee courtesy ratings are at all-time highs.

“Our team is doing great work,” Tague says. “A consistent focus on the basics is creating an environment that enables our employees to be successful at what they wake up every morning wanting to do, which is to provide great service for our customers.”

The desire to improve service for customers is permeating the company.

One example is a training program that customer service representatives at Washington Dulles Airport, in conjunction with management and local unions, came up with to

UNITED AIRLINES PRESIDENT JOHN TAGUE,

on board one of the company’s B747 aircraft configured with new United First suites

they are focused on being attentive to our customers’ needs. With that attitude —and all the necessary tools—we are making the customer’s experience that much better.”

Just like other large organizations navigating the current economic environment, United is ensuring it’s making the right investments that provide value and return to customers.

For example, this year the company completed the rollout of new international first and business cabins on its Boeing 767s and 747s, incorporating new lie-flat

“We’re putting a stake in the ground that we will not settle for anything other than the best.” film their interactions with customers and share them on a peer-to-peer basis. (The program will be rolled out companywide in 2010.) The goal: show how changing one or two little things can improve the interaction.

As Alexandria Marren, senior vice president of onboard service, noted in a recent Hemispheres Voices column, “The bottom line is, we are in the service business. We always want our customers to feel cared for and respected. Our people love what they do, and

HEM_1209_Voices.indd 2

seats, improved on-demand entertainment and other amenities that have won appreciative notices from media outlets—including, two years in a row, American Express Publishing Company’s Executive Travel magazine—and customers alike.

Customer satisfaction ratings are up as a result.

Overall satisfaction ratings from customers flying the reconfigured international widebody aircraft are nearly two times greater than they were before the

improvements. Additionally, an online survey found that ratings for cleanliness and cabin condition improved three times over. The company will begin the same upgrades on all of its 777 aircraft early next year.

Work is well under way in converting the Airbus 320s previously used for United’s former Ted product, installing first-class seats and leather throughout. Red Carpet Clubs are also being thoroughly refurbished to provide a more relaxing environment for customers waiting pre-flight or during layovers.

United recently began the process of introducing new uniforms by designer Cynthia Rowley. The company is involving all employee groups in the effort, gathering input about what is important to them. This is one of the many investments United is making and reflects the importance the company places on creating the best environment for customers and employees.

At the same time that the company is focused on improving its performance, it is also committed to strengthening its alliance and partner relationships. In October, United welcomed Continental to the Star Alliance, providing access to more than 60 new destinations for United customers. In December,

Brussels Airlines joins Star Alliance as well. The addition of Brussels Airlines is even more valuable due to United’s announcement that it will be adding additional nonstop service to Brussels from its Chicago hub.

With the work under way and the strong network and unmatched alliances, there’s every reason to believe United will go from strength to strength, Tague says. The number of industry firsts reads like a timeline of modern air travel: United employed the first flight attendants and opened the world’s first flight kitchen in the 1930s.

United was the first airline to introduce a credit card in the 1960s, and—in the 1990s— was the first to offer e-tickets.

More recently, United cofounded Star Alliance, the first truly global alliance. In the last few years, United bucked the trend of adding seats in coach cabins and continues to offer Economy Plus, the product it pioneered that offers more legroom and has proven to be hugely popular with customers.

And next year, United will move its airline operations from suburban Chicago to the iconic Willis Tower in the heart of the city’s downtown Loop. The new location will act as an engine of collaboration among employees and a clear representation of United’s future.

“We’re passionate about running a great airline,” Tague says. “The performance improvements we’ve made in the past year give us the confidence that we are on the right path to continue and build momentum in 2010.”

PH OT O GR APH BY UNI TED AI R LI NE S CR EAT IVE S E RV ICE S

voices

16

11/11/2009 20:21

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10/11/2009 11:35

DECEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

connections

18

On October 27, United’s global route network added more than 60 cities when Continental Airlines joined the Star Alliance, the world’s oldest and largest airline grouping.

For United’s frequent fliers, Continental’s entry opens a world of

Here, There, Everywhere Going places? Great…because United is, too.

YOU’VE GOT PLACES TO GO. You’ve got people to see. Clients to meet in another time zone, beaches to enjoy on another continent. Skiing in the West, diving in the South Pacific, hiking to a greensand beach in Hawaii.

For you, getting there is important. And with United, getting there is getting easier.

With some 3,300 flights a day, United is already a familiar presence in more than 200 cities around the world. And with our fellow Star Alliance members, United can take you even further, with connections to 1,071 destinations in 171 countries worldwide.

Going where you want to go means frequent service in some of the largest cities in the U.S., including Chicago, Los Angeles, Washington, D.C., San Francisco and Denver.

And it’s only getting better.

From Asheville to Huntsville—and to Mammoth Mountain and Pensacola—United is touching down with new service in several new cities in the coming months.

Perhaps you’ve already seen Denmark, so why not visit Duluth? If you like visiting cities named London, we’ve got two to offer.

Because the world is a big place. And we want to make it smaller.

Visit United.com for more information.

HEM_1209_Connex.indd 1

benefits consistent with those earned on all Star Alliance carriers, including the ability to earn and redeem miles for travel throughout Continental’s network, recognition of elite status when you fly and access to Continental’s Presidents Clubs.

And United’s partnership with Continental offers you even more, like more flights to more of the places you want to go and more efficient connections in a host of airports—including Chicago O’Hare, Beijing, Shanghai, Tokyo, Frankfurt and Paris.

P HO T OGR AP H S BY UNI TED AI R LI NE S CR EAT IVE S E RV ICE S ( PL AN E) , B EN J E AYE S/S H UT T ER STO CK (TO KYO), JUERGEN S CH O N N O P/S H UTTERSTO CK (F RAN KF URT)

TAG TEAM

11/11/2009 20:31

No.26787 Al Nippon Airways.indd 1

02/11/2009 12:44

COLD MOUNTAIN // Four mountaineers go for a stroll in the Swiss Alps.

HEM_1209_WWH.indd 1

05/11/2009 11:55

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DECEMBER 2009

wish you were here

21

CANTON OF BERN, SWITZERLAND // PHOTOGRAPH BY BERNARD VAN DIERENDONCK

HEM_1209_WWH.indd 2

11/11/2009 20:55

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K^h^i 8]de^c ^c LVghVl! EdaVcY IV`Z V lVa` VcY [daadl i]Z hiZeh d[ 8]de^c ^c LVghVl 9dlcadVY djg [gZZ BE( \j^YZ lll#Z"lVghVl#ea$X]de^c'%&%

No.27234 Panmedia Western Poland.indd 1

03/11/2009 12:24

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DECEMBER 2009

dispatches

23

NOTES FROM ALL OVER

Las Vegas

Totally Tubular!

WHEN YOU VISIT the newly opened ARIA Resort &

Casino in Las Vegas, order a drink and ask the person on the next bar stool to guess how far he thinks the libation will travel from the bottle to your glass. If he ILLUSTRATIONS BY GRAHAM ROUMIEU gets it right, you’ll buy the next round.

The answer: between 1,000 and 10,000 feet, or up to two miles.

The ARIA, which is part of the stunning new CityCenter, has been constructed with a first-of-itskind, computer-driven liquor transportation system.

Deep in the bowels of the hotel reside six so-called “pump rooms” containing 32 brands of booze. In each room, 1,344 bottles stacked six deep are placed upside down in specialized holders controlled by a computer.

Some 26 miles of tubing—or just under a marathon’s worth—zip the liquor around the facility.

Say you’re in the blackjack pit and you feel a little thirsty. You place your order with a server, and she sashays over to a bartender, who punches a code into one of his three liquor guns, sending a signal to the central computer. Precisely measured jiggers of hooch are dispatched through a network of quarterinch-thick plastic arteries winding behind the casino’s walls. Et voilà: Your Long Island iced tea, sir.

While this set-up helps the casino to monitor its liquor inventory and prevents bartenders from being egregiously generous, it also ensures that customers get their cocktails promptly. “Our liquor guns are pretty intelligent,” explains Heidi Hinkle, beverage director at ARIA. In a casino, every second lost to a bartender fumbling with a bottle of Absolut is time a customer isn’t gambling—and the house isn’t profiting. To make sure nothing goes wrong, ARIA does what casinos usually do: It watches things, very closely. “We have employees monitoring the pump rooms twenty-four hours a day,” Hinkle says. “Just in case.”—MICHAEL KAPLAN

A Vegas casino makes liquor quicker.

HEM_1209_Dispatches.indd 1

11/11/2009 20:44

DECEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

dispatches

24

Buenos Aires

DRIVE, SHE SAID

Layne Mosler, a 35-year-old Californian, has no idea where her next meal is coming from, and she likes it that way. Her cult blog, Taxi Gourmet, records the adventures that ensue from the order she gives every time she climbs into a cab in the evening: “Take me to your favorite restaurant.”

Mosler began the practice in 2007, a year after moving to Buenos Aires. “I was dancing tango and taking cabs regularly,” she says.

“After a few months of chatting with drivers, I realized they were teaching me more about their city than anyone else. So I decided to combine my interest in them with my obsession for finding restaurants off the radar.”

And find them she does.

The resultant vignettes read like a tourist guidebook written by Anthony Bourdain under the influence of early Kerouac.

Homemade pasta in gas station cafés, chitterlings in tumbledown steakhouses, homely empanada joints, melancholy pizza parlors…

Buenos Aires’ “underbelly” has rarely been evoked so well, and never so literally.

HEM_1209_Dispatches.indd 2

But it’s the vivid literary portraits of her drivers that make Mosler’s work remarkable. Meet, for example, sixtysomething Roque, an evangelical pastor whose love of a specific empanada verges on religious. Or Fernando, who croons a tango while spiriting her to the “best sausage-sandwich stall in town.” Mosler has a degree in anthropology and a decade and a half of experience in the restaurant trade—and it’s not always clear which skill set is more useful to her current endeavor.

Not everything goes according to recipe, as illustrated by some strange-tasting bits in an otherwise excellent feijoada.

But Mosler’s adventurous appetite is undimmed. After recently moving back to the states to develop a TV series and get a cab license of her own, she hopes to extend her serendipitous adventures to more cities, including Beirut, Naples, Istanbul and even Tehran.

She also plans to expand her website to accommodate the stories of fellow food pilgrims from around the globe. Her advice to wannabe taxi gourmets? “Let go of the map.” —MATT CHESTERTON

Stockholm

A group of 40 booklovers gather around petite Pia Hallberg, the Stockholm City Museum tour guide. It’s an unseasonably warm autumn day in this Scandinavian capital, so no one’s in any hurry. Hallberg points to the top floor of a handsome building overlooking Riddarfjaerden Canal in the Södermalm district.

“This is Mikael Blomkvist’s home,” Hallberg says.

Of course, it’s not really, because Blomkvist is a fictional character, an invention of the late Swedish mystery author Stieg Larsson. But no matter. Where New York has its Sex and the City tour, New Jersey its Sopranos tour and Paris its Da Vinci Code tour, the tour du jour in Stockholm is based on the runaway international hit novel The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo. (Another tour covers the first sequel, The Girl Who Played with Fire.)

Dragon Tattoo tells the story of Blomkvist, a journalist who unravels a 40-year-old murder mystery while trying to clear his name. The book and its two sequels have sold 12 million copies worldwide. (In Sweden, a population of only nine million has devoured 3.5 million copies.) The tours are offered in eight languages and have long waiting lists on weekends.

In August, Jose Luis Zapatero, the prime minister of Spain and a Dragon Tattoo fanatic, took the tour with his wife and daughters.

Participants are invited to see with their own eyes the building where computer hacker Lisbeth Salander (who happens to have a large tattoo of a dragon on her back) bought her 21-room apartment with stolen money; the Mellqvist Coffee Bar, where Blomkvist bought his java; and the offices of his magazine, Millennium. (They won’t, however, get a look at the prison where Blomkvist spends three months.)

At the Mellqvist, Hallberg points out that Larsson wrote much of the series here. The author died of a heart attack in 2004, a year before Dragon Tattoo was published, but, says Hallberg, “I bet he’d have enjoyed the tour.”—MARKUS WILHELMSON

Enter the Dragon

11/11/2009 20:44

Best coverage worldwide.

More phones that work in more than 215 countries, like Mexico.

att.com/global

Best coverage claim based on global coverage of U.S. carriers. Activation of international service required. Š2009 AT&T Intellectual Property. Service provided by AT&T Mobility. All rights reserved. AT&T, the AT&T logo, and all other marks contained herein are trademarks of AT&T Intellectual Property and/or AT&T affiliated companies. All other marks contained herein are the property of their respective owners. Coverage not available in all areas.

No.25448 ATT.indd 1

02/11/2009 12:33

DECEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

dispatches

26

Los Angeles

CONDUCTING ELECTRICITY

Hoots and whistles fill a packed stadium of 17,000, as a charismatic young Venezuelan rallies the crowd with his emotional proclamations. Soon they’re chanting his name: “Gu-stavo! Gu-sta-vo!”

Much as it might feel like a political rally, the event is actually a concert, a fourand-a-half-hour lovefest in honor of Gustavo Dudamel, new director of the Los Angeles Philharmonic.

“Who knew there were this many classical music fans in L.A.?” marvels local rock musician Marc Monroe Johnson, sitting in the stands. “It’s like a reception for Dear Leader.”

At just 28, the fresh-faced

It-boy of the symphony set is only the second youngest conductor in the L.A. orchestra’s history to fill the director’s position, and many hope he’ll make classical music accessible to a new generation of fans.

He seems off to a good start: The curly-maned prodigy—dubbed “The Dude” by twentysomethings in the audience—makes his first stage appearance in true SoCal style, clad in a T-shirt. Jack Black and Andy Garcia are on hand to sing his praises, along with Herbie Hancock and Quincy Jones. And bassist Flea, of the Red Hot Chili Peppers, performs with kids from the Silver Lake Conservatory of Music, a school the rocker founded. Later Dudamel

himself conducts the Los Angeles Youth Orchestra.

Accordingly, the mood at the concert is playful, especially toward the end of the evening, when elaborate fireworks explode around the proscenium and the smoke lifts to

reveal a brightly colored marquee that simply reads “¡Bienvenido Gustavo!”

“Look out, Arnold,” says one onlooker, noting that Governor Schwarzenegger will be wrapping up his final term next year.

—SHANA TING LIPTON

Istanbul

Behind a pair of semicircular beige display counters, four workers unfold shirts from one pile and then, for no apparent reason, refold and deposit them in another.

The work isn’t particularly challenging, but that’s precisely the point of this retail purgatory: They’re laboring in the name of art.

A potent reminder that the economic downturn is global in scope, “Unemployed Employees—I Found You a New Job!” by Turkish artists Aydan Murtezaoglu and Bülent Sangar, is an odd yet topical performance piece on view at Antrepo No. 3, a waterfront warehouse in Istanbul’s Tophane district.

For their humorous if pointed contribution to the Istanbul Biennial, the artists have hired local university graduates to perform needless tasks before a live audience and for an online video feed. It’s like the myth of Sisyphus set in a Turkish outlet mall.

“I focus on the irony of it,” says one participant, Ozgen Kaybaki, who, despite a masters in marketing, has been unable to find work— except as part of an art installation, of course, folding clothes and talking with passersby about her adventures in the global economy.

“Millions work like this doing the silliest jobs,” she adds. “Go to any shop in Istanbul. The people are like machines!”

One of her colleagues, Mehtap Pamukci, a 32-year-old philosophy graduate, notes that the financial crisis began far from Turkey.

“Why do we suffer here?” he wonders.

At least these ersatz retail workers could count on paid employment through the Biennial’s conclusion. “I was lucky to find this job after only three months of looking,” says Kaybaki, “not everyone is so lucky these days.” —RICHARD CARRIERO

Busy Work

HEM_1209_Dispatches.indd 3

11/11/2009 20:45

With non-stop service from more major hubs than nearly any other resort destination, including direct flights from Denver, Chicago and Los Angeles on United, experience the ease of getting to Telluride this winter. Over 2,000 acres of spectacular terrain, including the new Revelation Bowl, await – along with world class lodging, dining, shopping and spas.

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No.26929 NaHoku.indd 1

02/11/2009 12:28

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DECEMBER 2009

directions

29

WHERE TO STAY / WHAT TO SEE / WHEN TO GO

P H O T O G R A P H BY B E N N I L S S O N/ B I G B E N P R O D U C T I O N S O F ‘C RY S TA L L I Z AT I O N ’ A R T S U I T E BY PAT R I C K DA L L A R D

news

HEM_1209_TravelNews.indd 1

Icy Reception The obvious problem with constructing a building entirely out of ice is that it melts every spring.

But Sweden’s ICEHOTEL embraces the opportunity to reinvent itself with an annual competition among international designers to conceptualize and build new suites out of ice and snow, starting every November.

This year—the hotel’s 20th anniversary—15 suites will open December 10, designed by contest winners from all over the world. Staying in one of these so-called “art suites,” you’ll feel more like you traveled to another planet than to another country. icehotel.com

12/11/2009 10:48

DECEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

CALENDAR DECEMBER

30

3-7 MONTREAL // Twenty years after the fall of the Berlin Wall, along comes Wall to Wall, an arts festival that is guaranteed to be off the wall.

TALL ORDER // After five years of construction, the tallest tower in the world is set to open in Dubai on December 2, which also happens to be United Arab Emirates National Day. The shiny, pointy 2,684-foot Burj Dubai houses the first Armani Hotel in the world and has retail and office space galore. (It hasn’t all been filled yet, so hurry up and stake your claim.) This marks the first time since 1311—when England’s Lincoln Cathedral surpassed Egypt’s Great Pyramid of Giza—that the world’s tallest freestanding structure has been in the Middle East.

Whatever you do, don’t look down. burjdubai.com ALL THE TRIMMINGS // You’re unlikely to have a white Christmas in Dallas, but the city’s Rosewood Crescent Hotel has a pretty sweet holiday tradition.

Each year, the hotel erects a massive gingerbread village using 800 eggs, 100 pounds of flour and 100 pounds of candy. There’s also a 10-foot-tall Mrs. Claus (you better watch out). While the display is just for show (no nibbling), you can bake your own during gingerbread-making classes for adults and children. crescentcourt.com

PONZANO ROMANO, ITALY // Looking for love? You’ll be in good company at the Spinster Festival, where a randomly selected single woman receives a gift and hearty well-wishing from the town. comune. ponzanoromano.rm.it

12 BROOKLYN, NEW YORK // Hanukkah celebrations aren’t usually accompanied by metal music, but “Hanukkah Gone Metal” is par for the course at New York’s famed Knitting Factory nightclub, where the music will be a backdrop to a major league dreidel-spinning tournament. knittingfactory.com

28-30

ABSINTHE MINDED //

The InterContinental Montreal just unveiled a $14 million makeover. Instead of going green, the hotel followed the green fairy, opening the first absinthe bar in North America, Sarah B., named after Sarah Bernhardt.

Green-velvet banquettes and cozy fireplaces make Sarah B. feel decadent and vintage. The specialty of the house is absinthe-based cocktails, including a Collins, frappe and mojito. barsarahb.com;

6

LIVE FROM NEW YORK... // Elaborate department store window displays are as much a part of winter in the Big Apple as ice skating at Rockefeller Center. Unlike its competitors, Barneys stays away from traditional holiday themes (see last year’s “Peace & Love: Have a Hippie Holiday”). This year, the store will celebrate another famed New York tradition: Saturday Night Live.

Look for the Coneheads, John Belushi and Tina Fey in their seasonal finery. barneys.com

LORNE, AUSTRALIA // It’s camping season in the Southern Hemisphere, and what better complement to sleeping in a tent than catching a live show

by Grizzly Bear (or any of the more than 50 other bands playing), watching a movie in an outdoor amphitheater or going to art camp? fallsfestival.com.au

31 NEW YORK CITY // Get a head start on your resolution and usher in the new year with a four-mile midnight run in Central Park. Best part: no hangover the next day! nyrr.org

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : P H O T O G R A P H S BY B - C I M AG E S /G E T T Y I M AG E S , F R A N K A B RU N S /A P, C O U R T E SY O F FA L L S F E S T I VA L , N B C / E V E R E T T C O L L E C T I O N, I S T O C K P H O T O, C O R B I S

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montreal.intercontinental.com

HEM_1209_TravelNews.indd 2

12/11/2009 10:48

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Please consult your Panasonic representative prior to purchase. Panasonic is constantly enhancing product specifications and accessories. Specifications subject to change without notice. (*CF-52EV, CF-52GF and CF-52GU, **CF-30K, ***CF-19K, ****CF-F8EW are Intel® Centrino® 2 with vPro™ technology) ©2009 Panasonic Corporation of North America. All rights reserved. NeverStops_H_PCS_FY09-1

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11/2/09 4:53:21 PM

No.25831 Panasonic Compurt Solutions.indd 1

06/11/2009 10:43

CALENDAR

32

DECEMBER 18 – JANUARY 3 LONDON // For fans of sports traditionally played in bars, the World Darts Championship hits the bull’s-eye. pdc.tv

CHRISTMAS VILLAGE // You know that aunt or uncle who gets everyone perfect gifts from far-off places? You can be that aunt or uncle with just a quick jaunt to Chicago. Join the throngs buying imported handcrafts at Christkindlmarket. This isn’t your typical holiday-mart: It attracts more than half a million people who think strolling through an open-air market (inspired by one in Nuremberg, Germany, that opened in 1545) while nibbling on strudel beats going to the mall any day. christkindlmarket.org SNOW BIG DEAL // Aspen Snowmass is among the snowiest ski areas with the most diverse terrain in the U.S., so devoted skiers could probably stay in a quonset hut and still have a good time. Fortunately, they don’t have to. The KOR Hotel Group’s Viceroy Resort Residences at Snowmass open this month as part of the new Snowmass Village. It’s a ski-in, ski-out facility with cozy fireplaces in the rooms and a year-round outdoor pool (really). In short, it’s got the luxury amenities you expect from a billion-dollar project. That hut’s starting to sound a bit drafty, isn’t it? viceroysnowmass.com

8-17 SYDNEY // If your attention span is too limited for Sundance and the like, try Flickerfest, a collection of short films screened on Bondi Beach.

16

GAME DROPPERS // The Las Vegas Strip will welcome something unusual this month—a hotel without a casino. Talk about a gamble. The Mandarin Oriental Las Vegas has lavish rooms, a restaurant helmed by Pierre Gagnaire and an absurdly large spa. To celebrate its opening, the hotel offers the We Fan Vegas package: Book one or more nights and get another free.

Sounds like a safe bet for a relaxing Vegas getaway—three words we never thought we’d see in a single sentence. mandarinoriental.com

HEM_1209_TravelNews.indd 3

BON TEMPS // Grab a skewer and make some s’mores beside any of the hundred (carefully contained) feux de joie at the annual Festival of the Bonfires outside New Orleans. The Lutcher, Louisiana, tradition dates back to colonial times, but activities such as a washer board tournament (in which washers are thrown into holes on a wooden board) and the Million Mutt March are more recent additions. Oh, and if you need to waddle off those s’mores, there’s a 5K going on, too.

festivalofthebonfires.org

KEY WEST, FLORIDA // As an island chain, the Keys have a duty to provide any and all visitors with delicious seafood, and that’s exactly what they do at the Florida Keys Seafood Festival. monroe.ifas. ufl.edu/environment/env_seafood_ fest.shtml

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : P H O T O G R A P H S C O U R T E SY O F C H R I S T K I N D L M A R K E T, I A N WA LT O N/G E T T Y I M AG E S , C O U R T E SY O F F L I C K E R F E S T, S H U T T E R S T O C K , C O U R T E SY O F M A N DA R I N O R I E N TA L , C O U R T E SY O F V I C E R OY S N OW M A S S , B R I A N M I L L E R / T I M E & L I F E P I C T U R E S /G E T T Y

flickerfest.com.au

12/11/2009 10:48

No.25751 Greek Nat Tourism.indd 1

02/11/2009 12:37

Sit back. Relax.

And enjoy triple miles.

Introducing the Mileage Plus Select Visa . ®

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Visit united.com/hem or call 877-864-4751 to apply or learn more about our new family of United Cards.

Offer Code: CP6P Accounts subject to credit approval. Restrictions and limitations apply. Annual credit card fee applies. United Mileage Plus Visa credit cards are issued by Chase Bank USA, N.A. See www.united.com/hem for pricing and rewards details.

Print Date: 10/09

No.24710 Chase.indd 1

02/11/2009 12:24

DIRECTIONS | DECEMBER 2009

goods

35

SEE HERE

Peregrine XP / $1,600 / steiner-binoculars.com

The Eyes Have It Steiner’s Peregrine XP binoculars are the BMWs of optical instruments.

BY ADAM K. RAYMOND // PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN LAWTON

Binoculars have one purpose—making distant objects look near (as long as you’re peering in the right end). The technology was invented a few hundred years ago, and ever since, creating the perfect pair of binoculars has been more about refinement than advancement. Steiner’s Peregrine XP binoculars are nothing if not refined.

With technical specs straight out of a luxury car catalog (high pressure die-cast, lightweight magnesium chassis and water-repelling “NANO-Protection” coating), not to mention ergonomic gel-filled grips, these binoculars are the most sophisticated and attractive way to make things appear closer than they are.

HEM_1209_Goods.indd 1

11/11/2009 20:22

DECEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

goods

36

1. HEAVY KETTLE Known for pavement-shredding sports cars,

Bugatti wades into the home appliance market with the high-tech Vera Kettle—enough to make you give up coffee for tea. / $300 / casabugatti.it 2. HEAD STRONG It took a lot of bravado for Nokia to declare its

BH-905 headphones “the best headset ever made.” The crazy thing is, they may be right. / $300 / nokia.com 3. BOOT UP Powered by internal lithium polymer batteries, the 1

2

heaters in these Bugathermo boots ensure that you’ll never have cold feet again. They’re the perfect engagement gift. / $250 / columbia.com

3

5

4

4

4. TIME MACHINE The Kisai Sensai may not look like a watch, but push a button on the side and the time flashes on its face—in code, of course. Time has never looked more futuristic. / $210 / tokyoflash.com 5. POWER PLAY Four years after Sony’s PSP became the must-have gaming device, the PSP Go—its smaller, sleeker little brother—arrives just in time for someone to give it to you as a gift. / $250 / us.playstation.com

HEM_1209_Goods.indd 2

11/11/2009 20:23

No.26554 University Of Michigan.indd 1

02/11/2009 12:40

Take your Mileage Plus Visa card holiday shopping. ®

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NO PURCHASE OR OBLIGATION NECESSARY TO ENTER OR WIN THE UNITED MILEAGE PLUS & VISA VANCOUVER 2010 OLYMPIC WINTER GAMES SWEEPSTAKES. Open only to legal residents of the 50 U.S. and the D.C., 18 years of age or older as of 12/01/09. Sweepstakes starts 12/01/09, and ends on 12/31/09 (“Promotional Period”). An eligible Visa United Mileage Plus cardholder will automatically receive one Sweepstakes entry for each eligible Visa United Mileage Plus purchase made within the U.S. during the Promotional Period. Certain restrictions may apply. PIN-based purchases are not eligible. To enter without purchase or obligation: hand-print your name, address, city, state, ZIP code, and daytime and evening phone numbers (including area code) on a 3" x 5" card, and mail, in a #10 envelope with postage affixed, to: United Mileage Plus & Visa Vancouver 2010 Olympic Winter Games Sweepstakes, P.O. Box 695, Bethpage, NY 11714-0695. Mail-in entries must be postmarked by 12/31/09, and received by 1/07/10. Enter as often as you wish; however, each mail-in entry must be mailed in a separate postmarked-and-stamped outer envelope. No mechanical reproductions permitted. PRIZES/VALUES: Four (4) Grand Prizes: A four day/three night trip for two to the Vancouver 2010 Olympic Winter Games including roundtrip air transportation, hotel accommodations, ground transportation; four tickets to one event per day. ARV: $13,718 each. ARV of all prizes is $54,872. ODDS: Estimated odds of winning a Grand Prize are 1: 8,696,692; however, the actual odds of winning a prize depend upon the total number of eligible entries received. Sweepstakes subject to complete Official Rules available at www.united.com/visawintergames or by sending a self-addressed stamped envelope to: United Mileage Plus & Visa Vancouver 2010 Olympic Winter Games Rules, P.O. Box 913R, Bethpage, NY 11714-0913. VT residents may omit return postage. Void in Puerto Rico and where prohibited. SPONSORS: United Airlines, Inc., 77 West Wacker Dr., Chicago, IL 60601 and Visa U.S.A. Inc., P.O. Box 8999, San Francisco, CA 94128-8999. 36 USC 220506 Visa, Worldwide Partner of the Vancouver 2010 Olympic Winter Games and United Airlines, Official Airlines Sponsor of the U.S. Olympic Team. ©2009 United Air Lines, Inc. ©2009 Visa U.S.A. Inc. All Rights Reserved.

House Ads_Dec09.indd 4

09/11/2009 11:33

DIRECTIONS | DECEMBER 2009

whereabouts

39

The Places I Go: P.D. James “I’VE TRAVELED TO so many different countries promoting my books, but the place I’ve felt most at home is America, and my favorite city there is Boston. It’s a very English city, and that’s such a funny thing to say, because we don’t travel to other places to find more Englishness! But there’s so much history there, and I loved the architecture.

There’s something very special about Boston. It combines all the activity of a big city with a kind of intellectual peace.

“I was there for three months teaching creative writing at Boston University. I really enjoyed the historic sites such as the Paul Revere House and the State Capitol. It’s a very walkable city. I remember going across the bridge to Harvard University, which is a very attractive campus. And we went down to Cape Cod and visited Nantucket, where the houses have widow’s walks around them. It’s just lovely.”

PHOTO GRAP HS BY DAVID H ARRI SON/ NEWSCO M

P.D. James’ latest book, Talking About Detective Fiction, will be released this month.

HEM_1209_whereabout.indd 1

11/11/2009 20:54

40

Pop into one of the cavernous (and cool) galleries at the Phoenix Art Museum (1625 N. Central Ave.; phxart.org), then get your caffeine fix and a pastry a block away at Giant Coffee. While there, resist the urge to check your email; the clock is ticking. ( 3:20 )

Do a lap around Ro Ho En, the Japanese Friendship Garden (1125 N. 3rd Ave.; japanesefriend shipgarden.org) where architects from Himeji, Japan, have designed a wabi-sabi koi pond surrounded by artfully pruned trees. ( 3:45 )

Stop at the Civic Space Park (424 N. Central Ave.; phoenix. gov) and have a gander at the art floating above. Is it a jellyfish? A blooming desert flower? Whatever it is, internationally renowned artist Janet Echelman’s sculpture Her Secret Is Patience is Phoenix’s most buzzworthy piece of public art. ( 4:10 )

Slather on some SPF 50 and head to the Desert Botanical Garden (1201 N. Galvin Pkwy.; dbg.org), a quiet oasis of exotic plants and towering cacti smack in the middle of America’s fifth-largest city. ( 0:45 )

There’s a hip retail cluster tucked into a strip mall a couple blocks away where you can try on some quirky jewelry at Frances Vintage (10 W. Camelback Rd.; francesvintage.com) and listen to Bob Dylan’s Christmas album at Stinkweeds before grabbing two handfuls of old-fashioned penny candy at Smeeks.

BOARDING PASS Five hours in Phoenix just isn’t enough, ( 1:50 ) so United and United Express offer frequent service to the Cool down with a glass of Pinot at Postino Central (5144 N. Central Ave.; postinowinecafe.com).

On a nice day (note: they’re pretty much all nice) the back patio is a prime spot for people watching. Count 10 cowboy hats and get ready to shop. ( 1:25 )

Valley of the Sun from Chicago, Denver, Los Angeles, San Francisco and Washington.

One stop south on the light rail, sit down for a mozzarella, tomato and basil sandwich at Pane Bianco (4404 N. Central Ave.; pizzeriabianco.com).

People wait hours for a table at James Beard Award–winner Chris Bianco’s downtown pizzeria, but here, it’s counter service and picnic table, in case you need your tomatoes more sun-dried. ( 2:20 )

Your last stop is the Phoenix Ranch Market (1602 E. Roosevelt St.; prosranch.com), a wonderland of Mexican culture with an in-house tortilleria, a bustling food court and a jaw-dropping produce section. Pick up a cold agua fresca and fill your carry-on with cilantro before heading back to the airport. You’ve found the perfect souvenir. ( 5:00 )

ILLUSTRATION BY OLIVER JEFFERS

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11/11/2009 20:55

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06/11/2009 10:59

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05/10/2009 16:11

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DECEMBER 2009

style

culture

43

ART & COMMERCE

P H O T O G R A P H BY N I C K W E L S H /C O U R T E SY O F CA R T I E R

Diamond Anniversary

HEM_1209_Style.indd 1

IT’S BEEN 100 YEARS SINCE the Frenchman Pierre Cartier brought dad Alfred’s storied jewelry concern to America, but the company, famed for whimsical designs like its rock star panther ring, is still partying like it’s 1909.

To wrap up Cartier’s yearlong centennial celebrations, ...And then some! Looking back the exhibition “Cartier and America” will open on on a century of Cartier jewels December 19 at San Francisco’s Legion of Honor. You // BY SARAH HORNE might want to bundle up, because it will be icy: There’s the “Star of South Africa,” an 83-carat rock found in 1869 along the banks of South Africa’s Orange River, a discovery that set off the South African diamond rush.

(The bauble was later whittled down to a mere 47-carat pear-shape, lest you fear it all sounds a bit Dow 14,000.) Then there’s Grace Kelly’s diamond engagement ring, a hefty sparkler that’s equal parts movie star, European princess and prizefighter.

But if cut, color and clarity don’t dazzle you, some of Cartier’s more quirky amusements are also on display. Space nerds will cheer at the miniature 1969 Lunar Landing Module, rendered in yellow and white gold. Unfortunately, it’s not available as a stocking stuffer. And for your inner crocodile hunter, there’s a hefty 1975 necklace on view featuring an emerald beast taking a bite out of a yellow-diamond rival; the piece comprises a total of 2,087 jewels. Now, that’s fierce.

If you’re looking for your own piece of the rock, check out Cartier’s newest collection, Secrets & Merveilles, which will have four themes: peacocks, pearls, snakes and, of course, diamonds—something for everyone on your holiday list.

11/11/2009 20:53

DECEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

44

hero

Teen Spirit In between soccer practice, swim meets and dance class, RandomKid founder Talia Leman helps young people around the world organize their own philanthropic efforts.

BY LAYLA SCHLACK

// PHOTOGRAPH BY SANDRA L. DYAS NAME

• TALIA LEMAN, 14 • Providing structural

MISSION

support, interest-free microloans and education to kids wishing to raise money for a cause. “When I was ten, after Hurricanes Katrina and Rita, I started a project called TLC,” Leman says.

“It stands for Trick-or-treat for the Levee Catastrophe. Kids could trick-or-treat for coins as well as candy, and I raised ten million dollars. From there, I founded RandomKid.” Now she’s also working with the University of Iowa, in her home state, on a project called Great Strides. “We’re sending kids free pedometers, and they get pledges for the miles they walk to help kids with club feet, so it’s kind of walking to help others walk.

Instead of surgery, which is really expensive, we’re using something called the Ponseti method, which uses a series of braces.”

MOTIVATION • After witnessing the success of TLC, Leman says, “I realized I really was a random kid.

I’m no one special, and I might not be able to do everything on my own, but by reaching out to other people, I can make a difference.”

WHEN SHE GROWS UP • “I don’t know yet if philanthropy is what I want to do,” Leman says. “I’m just taking it one project at a time. If I had to say right now, I’m really interested in medicine, so maybe working with health care in underdeveloped countries.”

LEND A HAND • Ninety-nine percent of funds donated to RandomKid go to projects such as training service dogs, providing clean water to impoverished villages and building schools in underdeveloped countries.

Learn more at randomkid.org

HEM_1209_Hero.indd 1

11/11/2009 20:24

Food. Shelter. Comfort. Hope.

GIVE THE GIFT THAT SAVES THE DAY In this season of hope—when you want your gifts to really matter—there’s one gift you can always count on to save the day.

It will save the day when the next disaster strikes, or when a neighbor’s house burns down. It will be there when someone needs lifesaving blood, or the comfort of a helping hand.

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DECEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

sound

46

Do You Hear What I Hear?

For the self-proclaimed King of Jingaling, if it doesn’t have sleigh bells, it’s just not music.

BY K. LEANDER WILLIAMS // ILLUSTRATION BY ANDREW HOLDER HOLIDAY MUSIC OFTEN gets a bad rap, and

Bob Dylan’s recent surreal croaker, Christmas in the Heart, isn’t likely to change that (though the royalties go to charity, which is a plus). Nor will the new offerings by Sting, Michael McDonald and Judas Priest’s leathery singer Rob Halford do much to warm the hearts of true yule-tune aficionados.

Yet each December, they arrive, like intrusive relatives. “Record labels still see Christmas records as sort of a cash cow—hence the sheer number of them,” says Brad Ross-MacLeod, the self-proclaimed King of Jingaling, who prefers the more obscure entries.

“It’s amazing the number of fantastic composers and arrangers who have been all but forgotten.”

Ross-MacLeod, a schoolteacher in Kenosha, Wisconsin, grew up on classics by The Hollyridge Strings and the

HEM_1209_Sound.indd 1

British vocal arranger Mike Sammes.

Four years ago, his search for these and other chestnuts prompted him to found falalalala.com, which has become the goto site for vintage Christmas-music connoisseurs, logging more than 1.5 million hits during the 2008 holiday season.

“The period I’m interested in stretches from about the late ’40s to the mid-’70s,” the King explains matter-of-factly. “You know how your parents had those three Christmas records they pulled out every year? Well, if you think about it, those songs actually become Christmas for you.

What the site does is connect people who are looking for a favorite old record with experts”—his “elves.”

Fittingly, perusing the site is a bit like being transported back in time, with Ross-MacLeod cueing up the best tracks from vinyl LPs others of us might overlook in thrift stores. Every day between

December 1 and Christmas, he posts a different gem, the culmination of which is a downloadable compilation, Adventure in Carols. He doesn’t upload anything available on CD or MP3, so it’s quite possible that falalalala.com is the only place to find, say, The Caroleers’ version of the Texas swing ditty “When Santa Claus Gets Your Letter” or the Brazilian group Os Velhinhos Transviados’ “Noite Silenciosa,” a funky take on “Silent Night.”

Though he admits to being a little “obsessed,” Ross-MacLeod says his passion for the holidays is purely musical. “It’s not like if you rode by my house you’d see over-the-top decorations,” he says. “My wife and I have a vintage white Christmas tree—maybe a little on the kitschy side, but that’s about it.”

K. LEANDER WILLIAMS

is in search of a more

festive holiday hat.

11/11/2009 20:51

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DECEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

ACTION! James Cameron sees the future, and it’s in 3-D.

The Next Dimension Can Avatar transform 3-D from novelty to necessity? Hollywood hopes so. // BY ADAM K. RAYMOND AT MIDNIGHT ON December 18, the opening credits of James Cameron’s sci-fi epic Avatar will flicker onto movie screens, and cinema as we know it will change forever. At least that’s the idea.

The fervent anticipation of Avatar (tickets went on sale fourth months

ALSO THIS MONTH What else to watch on the go in December

HEM_1209_Vision.indd 1

ago) has less to do with the plot— humans battling blue aliens—than the presentation: motion-capture animation mixed with live action displayed in a revolutionary type of 3-D that’s been called the biggest innovation in filmmaking since sound and color.

Robin Williams: Weapons of Self-Destruction

Herb & Dorothy

AK 100: 25 Films by Akira Kurosawa

Thirty years after first appearing on HBO, furry funnyman Robin Williams returns with his full repertoire of goofy voices and bizarre antics for his first stand-up special in seven years.

Na-Nu Na-Nu. On HBO December 6

This charming documentary tells how a working-class couple amassed one of the world’s top modern art collections by snatching up works by unknowns such as Chuck Close and Sol LeWitt.

On DVD December 15

Akira Kurosawa directed 31 films in his masterful career.

Criterion celebrates his 100th birthday with this collection of the 25 best, from Sanshiro Sugata, his first, to Madadayo, his last.

On DVD December 8; criterion.com

This isn’t Vincent Price’s 3-D, mind you. Known as RealD, the digital stereoscopic projection technology used for Avatar has been around only since 2005, when Chicken Little introduced it to six-year-olds. Since then, RealD has mainly been used for animation (Up, Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs) and movies that might not be especially appealing without the added novelty (The Final Destination, G-Force). That’s why Michael V. Lewis, CEO of RealD, is so excited to have the director behind the most successful movie ever (it was about a boat) utilizing the technology.

“James Cameron has spent the last decade learning how to effectively tell stories in 3-D,” Lewis says. “Avatar could be the Citizen Kane of 3-D films.” It may sound as if he’s looking through 3-D colored glasses, but Lewis is not alone.

DreamWorks CEO Jeffrey Katzenberg thinks “Avatar will be to 3-D what The Wizard of Oz was to color.” And Sony Pictures Entertainment cochair Amy Pascal believes “it could change the world.” Meanwhile Tim Burton, Steven Spielberg and Zack Snyder have 3-D films in development.

If all goes as planned, Avatar will open the door for 3-D romcoms, 3-D musicals and 3-D documentaries, and Hollywood will reap the rewards. Ticket prices for 3-D movies can be as much as twice those of their 2-D counterparts, and moviegoers appear willing to pay.

Of course, not everyone is convinced.

Roger Ebert has called 3-D “a marketing gimmick,” and other detractors point to a lack of screens around the country capable of showing 3-D movies.

Shooting in 3-D also adds an estimated $15 million in production costs, an impossible luxury for many small films.

Perhaps most important, no one knows how the 3-D experience will translate to the living room. But they better figure it out soon. Sony and Panasonic are releasing 3-D flat screens next year.

Associate editor ADAM K. RAYMOND wears his 3-D glasses at night.

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : P H O T O G R A P H S C O U R T E SY O F M A R K F E L L M A N/ T W E N T I E T H C E N T U RY F OX F I L M C O R P O R AT I O N, C O U R T E SY O F K AT S U YO S H I TA NA K A , C O U R T E SY O F M T V, C O U R T E SY O F H B O

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02/11/2009 12:52

DECEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

Dream Machine Apple’s new gadget is still under wraps, but some might say a tablet hasn’t generated this much excitement since Moses. BY ALYSSA GIACOBBE // ILLUSTRATION BY BRYAN CHRISTIE IT’S BEEN TWO and a half years since Apple released the iPhone. That might not seem like a long time, but for true Mac heads, it’s an eternity. Steve Jobs had scarcely returned to work after dealing with health issues early this year when the anticipation went viral: Welcome back, dude. Now where’s the next game-changer?

Since then, the buzz has built to a fever pitch. Supposedly, Apple is set to release its newest gizmo this spring: a

TECH WATCH More news from the cutting edge

HEM_1209_Tech.indd 1

$700 tablet-like handheld device that will allow users to surf the web, watch video and play games from just about anywhere. Of course, that’s just an educated guess.

Tech bloggers began geeking out over this rumored doohickey months ago.

Apple’s tablet “could be a Kindle killer,” enthused PC World. Tech site Gizmodo enlisted a chocolatier to create an edible version of the fantasy device. And in

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Among the iPhone’s limitations: lack of word processing and spreadsheet programs.

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A blessing for those hankering for a 1975 Schwinn but lacking the patience to monitor Craigslist, Craigsly sends email alerts each time your object of desire is listed. It won’t, however, help you haggle. craigsly.com

To “photobomb” is to make a surprise appearance in a photograph without the knowledge of the subject, typically to riotous result.

Giggle at entries, post your own. thisisphotobomb.com

September, Wired.com mused that the gadget might save the print industry, though the author allowed that the whole thing might just be “a mediafabricated illusion.”

Anyone who’s fiddled with an iPhone can understand the excitement. The new device, which unlike digital readers is expected to replicate web layouts, as well as host video, audio and interactive features, “could reshape the book and magazine industries in the same way that the iPod and iPhone have radically changed music and phones,” says Jeremy Horwitz, editor of online magazine iLounge. “Tablets have failed so many times before, it’ll be interesting to see if the form can be made desirable,” says Gizmodo editor Jason Chen, adding that “screens sans keyboards” have been common in science fiction since Star Trek. (And hey, Roddenberry was right about those sliding doors...)

Just how long we’ll have to wait for the new gadget is hard to predict.

Reports have cited a range of dates, from last September to mid-2010.

According to insiders, the tablet’s been in the works since as early as 2003, but Jobs—who famously killed the Newton MessagePad back in the ’90s—is said to have wondered whether a tablet would actually be useful for much more than “surfing the web in the bathroom.”

Apparently, he’s decided it will.

The buzz around the Apple tablet hasn’t deterred competitors from testing out their own models. Images of a Microsoft double-screened “booklet” device called Courier surfaced in September; Silicon Valley vet Michael Arrington’s industry blog group TechCrunch is cooking up something called the CrunchPad, and Barnes & Noble released its own e-reader last month. But others are no doubt waiting to see what Jobs has cooked up. “Just like with the iPhone,” says CrunchGear editor John Biggs, “once Apple shows the way, the rest will follow.”

ALYSSA GIACOBBE uses her boyfriend’s iPhone

to locate Quiznos shops while on road trips.

P H O T O G R A P H S BY E V E R E T T C O L L E C T I O N ( H E S T O N ) , S H U T T E R S T O C K ( FAC E )

tech

50

11/11/2009 20:53

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DECEMBER 2009

Award Redemption

Hotel and Car Awards Now you can use your miles for:

Hotel Stays

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UNITED MILEAGE PLUS MEMBERS HAVE ALWAYS ENJOYED ONE OF THE WORLD’S BEST MILEAGE REWARD TRAVEL PROGRAMS. Today those miles are more valuable than ever, because Mileage Plus members can now redeem their miles for hotel stays and car rentals, as well as flights.

“Particularly in these economic times, our members say that they want more ways to use their miles and we are responding with our new hotel and car awards,” said Robert Sahadevan, vice president— Mileage Plus. “Using miles for more parts of a trip is another way Mileage Plus is one of the most rewarding loyalty programs.”

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This holiday season, use your miles to book hotel stays and car rentals, and let Mileage Plus help you plan your entire trip.

12/11/2009 14:16

DECEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

52

print

Living Large Just in time for the holidays, a whole wide world of large-format editions lands with a thunk. // BY AARON GELL CONSIDER THE NOT-SO-HUMBLE coffee-

table book—so hefty you can barely lift the thing, and yet somehow able to transport a reader far from home.

Start your journey with the gorgeously produced Painters of Utah’s Canyons and Deserts (Gibbs Smith), which brings together a number of impressionistic images of Zion National Park and other breathtaking sites.

Meanwhile, anyone who’d rather scale such peaks than paint them will love The Stone Masters: California Rock Climbers in the Seventies (Stonemaster), the story

of a handful of hippies who took on some of the most dangerous climbs with little more than bandannas for protection.

Next, drop in on Charles Darwin’s favorite island getaway with Galapagos: Both Sides of the Coin (Imagine), a vivid look at the islands’ animals and humans, and how they interact (to sometimes damaging effect), and delve into China (Abbeville), a photo book nearly as overwhelming as the country itself.

Then there’s India. With its numerous castes and cultures, it’s not an easy place

for outsiders to grasp, which explains why a new book simply reaches for the alphabet. Clive Limpkin’s India Exposed: The Subcontinent A-Z (Abbeville) illuminates the country in a series of pictures arranged encyclopedia-style (from astrology to zebu, a breed of cattle), and To India, With Love (Assouline) offers a collection of snapshots and memories from a passel of well-known contributors, from Adrien Brody to Zubin Mehta.

Photographer Michael Loyd Young illuminates the Mississippi River Delta region in the affecting Blues, Booze & BBQ (powerHouse), while legendary lensman William Eggleston, who made his reputation shooting the American South, ventures across the pond for a lyrical survey, William Eggleston: Paris (Steidl). And acclaimed fashion photographer Mario Testino turns his lens on Rio de Janeiro with MaRIO DE JANEIRO Testino (Taschen), sprinkling an array of humid Copacabana landscapes among his dazzling snapshots of Gisele Bundchen and other local attractions.

Somewhat more instructive is the monumental Los Angeles: Portrait of a City (Taschen), a pictorial history of the city of angels, beginning with an amazing 1891 silver print of flinty-eyed settlers on a dusty ranch in what is now Hollywood, and ending with presentday L.A.—considerably more glittering if somehow just as anxious.

Travel’s romantic past is lovingly evoked in Coast to Coast: Vintage Travel in North America (Vendome), which offers a cross-continental journey by way of vintage photographs and handpainted postcards, and in Gypset Style (Assouline), author Julia Chaplin’s breezy look at the eclectic chic of certain well-heeled global nomads.

Finally, those with a yearning to wander even farther afield will gravitate toward Michael Benson’s Far Out: A Space-Time Chronicle

(Abrams), which features eye-popping imagery of nebulae, galaxy clusters and other cosmic phenomena. And to think you can see it all without even leaving the earth.

PHOTOGRAPH BY CLAIRE BENOIST

HEM_1209_Print.indd 1

11/11/2009 20:49

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CULTURE | DECEMBER 2009

sports

55

Ice Capades Frozen out of a major television contract in 2005, the National Hockey League has reluctantly planted its flag on the internet. It could be the best thing to happen to the sport since the Zamboni.

BY BRYANT URSTADT // ILLUSTRATION BY EMILIANO PONZI FOUR YEARS AGO, the National Hockey League more or less dropped off the face of national television, cast into a sports broadcasting wilderness where even the world’s-strongest-man contest feared to go—which is to say, a place without ESPN or even ESPN2. Besides depriving hockey fans of the nightly stylings of ESPN hockey analyst Barry Melrose, whose egregious mullet was revered enough to spark a series of Bud

HEM_1209_Sports.indd 1

Light ads, the NHL’s failure to negotiate a full-time broadcast contract with the network cost it a lot of money and a lot of air time. NBC, in the meantime, has been broadcasting games, but just a handful and paying zero for the privilege. Consequently, the NHL is a distant sixth (if you count NASCAR and golf) to the other major sports on the TV landscape—deep within a black hole from which it may never return.

It turns out this may not be such a bad thing. Spurned by national television, the NHL, with a surprisingly stable base of fans rabid enough to seek out games no matter what it takes—whether through pirated digital streams or legit NHL website offerings—has built a significant online presence, and one that may give it advantages as the major sports continue to shed their television-based past and present, and

11/11/2009 20:51

DECEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

sports

56

move toward an all-broadband future.

It’s not that the NHL is a small or insignificant league. Attendance for hockey games, in fact, is about the same as it is for NBA games, and hockey’s fans are famously loyal. As an old saw in Boston goes, “There may be only 17,000 Bruins fans, but they come to every single game.”

Of course, there are more than 17,000 Bruins fans, but you get the point. With competition from more dominant sports like baseball, NASCAR, football and basketball (and the college versions of the latter two), there just isn’t room for an extra sport on the major airwaves— though most markets with pro hockey teams have a local cable channel willing to air games.

Such adversity has forced pro hockey teams and the league down some unfamiliar paths. Take Los Angeles, a city whose financially strapped newspapers stopped sending beat writers to L.A. Kings road games around the same time the NHL lost

The NHL will be well positioned to compete on whatever new, more level playing field emerges over the next few seasons. its ESPN contract. This fall, the team solved the problem by hiring Los Angeles Daily News writer Rich Hammond to be its full-time blogger. He now does just about the same thing he did at the LADN but gets his checks from the team instead of a publisher. The result: Though whatever wall may have existed between writer and subject has basically been dismantled, Kings fans now get coverage by the same writer they’ve been reading for almost a decade.

The Washington Capitals have long been at the forefront of the NHL’s digital experiment, having been among the first teams to offer bloggers permanent seats at games. This actually isn’t too surprising, given that the team is owned by Ted Leonsis, who spent the better (and certainly most

CLIMATE CHANGE? By next season, tough times may drive three teams back to their Canadian roots.

WINNIPEG, MANTOBA QUEBEC CITY, QUEBEC HAMILTON, ONTARIO LONG ISLAND, NEW YORK

PHOENIX,

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HEM_1209_Sports.indd 2

profitable) part of his career in various positions at AOL during the internet giant’s salad days.

As Leonsis candidly told the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation’s program Hockey Night in Canada, the wood stove around which the Canadian hockey world gathers, “Hockey’s not going to make it big on television. We’ve tried for twenty years. We have to be the most new-media savvy league and go where the puck is going to be. I don’t think it’s anything to fear. I think it’s a business and social imperative that we have to embrace.”

The Islanders, also suffering in a world of reduced print space, have gone a step further. Next to the free seats offered to salaried mainstream media in the press box, the team installed a “Blog Box,” where independent bloggers have covered the games with the same level of access as their traditional-media brethren since 2007. As many as 175 bloggers applied for spots in the box last year, and the team chose 13. Now, instead of the usual coterie of frustrated novelists and ink-stained eggheads, the people covering the Islanders include such everymen as an air conditioning service tech and an electrician. On opening day, at least one of the bloggers showed up for work in regular fan attire: an Islanders jersey.

Like other leagues, the NHL has embraced every kind of social networking site, from MySpace to Facebook, and keeps a full-time social media staffer at its New York headquarters. This August, the Tampa Bay Lightning made history in fewer than 140 characters by becoming the first professional team in any major sport to announce a trade by means of a tweet.

The NHL streams games, too, and for $20 a month, or $159 a year, a fan can purchase games and have them fed to a computer via the league’s GameCenter Live. Some games, however, are blacked

11/11/2009 20:52

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out locally because of deals with cable companies. This may have dissuaded some from dumping their local cable service, but the league is obviously still mindful of alienating whatever television presence remains (local teams can often still be seen on local cable channels). The NHL’s senior vice president of digital media, Perry Cooper, notes that about half the fan base roots for teams outside their home market, which is a boon to the internet operation. The NHL doesn’t release GameCenter subscriber numbers, but Cooper says it’s seen about a 70 percent growth in subscribers year over year.

The NHL also makes the games available on other sites immediately after they’ve aired in home markets.

Go to Hulu, the high-quality video hub started last year by Fox and NBC, and you’ll find full-length recent NHL games archived in a free feed. The NHL has struck similar deals with Yahoo! and iTunes, and in the process it created a sort of ad hoc DVR for its fans.

There are other, less legitimate formats as well. Some frustrated (or just cheap) NHL fans have been pirating streams from cable and throwing them up on the web. NHL officials say that they “go after” such evildoers, but there haven’t been any high-profile prosecutions—which could indicate a sophisticated view of how brand marketing works. Like Grateful Dead bootlegs, pirated NHL streams bolster other sources of income for the league—namely, tickets and merchandise—while building an audience for a league that will be well positioned to play on whatever new, more level, playing field emerges over the next few seasons.

Can the NHL ever imagine itself as a totally digital sport? “Right now, people need those sixty-inch HD games, and cable can give those to them,” says Cooper, somewhat diplomatically. “Only time will tell what happens next.”

BRYANT URSTADT also plays hockey without

major broadcast coverage—in a men’s league in Queens, New York.

HEM_1209_Sports.indd 3

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CULTURE | DECEMBER 2009

food&drink

59

PHOTO GRAP H BY JAME S MER RE LL

The Incredible Shrinking Plate If Spanish tapas superstar José Andrés has his way, the dinner entrée might finally gets its just desserts. // BY ADAM BAER “BEHIND YOU!” bellows a young sous chef delivering a bowl of eggs to the immersion circulator sitting in front of me. I shuffle out of his way, and he drops the eggs into the simmering water alongside vacuum-packed fish filets cooking slowly in the contemporary “sous vide” style. To my right, one

HEM_1209_Food&Drink.indd 1

chef checks a digital order screen, à la McDonald’s; to my left, another chef turns out six perfectly composed plates of salmon and crème foam; behind me, a cook quickly assembles “Philly ¡OLÉ MATADOR! Chef Andrés carves a

jamon before a portrait of Manolete.

cheesesteaks,” bullets of hollow “air bread” that are filled with cheddar cream and topped with wagyu beef, and beyond her, more than 40 other cooks work at various delicate finedining preparations as if their lives were on the line.

I’m in the stainless steel, high-tech

11/11/2009 20:40

DECEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

60

HOW BAZAAR Andrés and two other chefs toil behind The Bazaar’s jamon y queso bar.

“indoor piazza” cooked up by Andrés in concert with renowned designer and partner Philippe Starck, and SLS founder and hospitality impresario Sam Nazarian. It’s an all-new type of eatery: dining as participatory postmodern theater. “We’ve broken down walls,” Andrés tells me. “It’s like a little town.”

Walking in, there’s an outpost of the luxury design store Moss to your right; statuesque women and men peer at pricey tchotchkes resting in illuminated vitrines. Toward the rear of the space,

“I’d prefer it if I didn’t have to concentrate so much in the Spanish tradition,” José Andrés says.

“But if I don’t do it, who will?”

Hopkins and Radiohead’s Thom Yorke, here to sample not only the chef’s innovative take on tapas but the highenergy space as well.

The 417-seat Bazaar, a free-form new “dining concept,” is a little like a swanky food court with wait service—an

CAN DO Tinned mussels and king crab are

two of The Bazaar’s latas y conservios.

HEM_1209_Food&Drink.indd 2

one finds Bar Centro, the dark, loungey cocktail and raw bar where bartenders present margaritas topped with “salt air” and “magic” mojitos poured over cotton candy. To the bar’s right resides a fanciful patisserie, where deconstructed desserts and homemade candies tempt some to skip dinner. And on the far left is the main event, two back-to-back tapas bars separated by a floating wall. One, Blanca, decorated in blonde wood and white fabric, sets the stage for contemporary tapas: tiny jicama pouches filled with guacamole, liquefied “olives” served on white spoons, foie gras–cotton candy “lollipops,” and faux miso linguini. Rojo, the other side, sports darker wood and photos of matadors; it’s designed to evoke the spirit of more traditional tapas like scallops romesco and jamon Iberico, from acorn-fed pigs. (Andrés is a partner in a company that produces this acclaimed ham, which he brought to the

U.S. for the first time last year.)

The Bazaar is Andrés’ eighth and largest restaurant, a new frontier for the chef-owner of hit Washington, D.C., eateries including Congressional favorites like Jaleo, Café Atlántico, Zaytinya and minibar that span a variety of cuisines but mostly emphasize, expand and reinterpret the Spanish tapas philosophy, which has recently overtaken the American culinary world. Blame Andrés, if you must, for the demise of the entrée, but remember, his small plates are more interesting and flavorful than most, and few of those who’ve tried his food would have it any other way.

At minibar, an elite six-seat station inside Café Atlántico, Andrés has pioneered a new form of Spanishinflected avant-garde cuisine that calls for very small plates; it’s also his private laboratory, where he creates new dishes and then puzzles out how to produce them on a large scale across his growing empire. “I may do a dish at minibar that I cannot do for four thousand people a day,” he says. “But I can extract touches of that idea and bring them to the masses.” A shrewd businessman, he’s a partner with Starck and Nazarian in the BOARDING PASS SLS hotel brand, as United, L.A.’s No. 1 opposed, say, to just airline, connects the No. 2 U.S. city with being the celebrity points throughout North America, Asia, chef-owner of the Australia and Europe. eatery. The only So no matter where you are in the restaurant to receive an experience four stars from the world, at The Bazaar might Los Angeles Times in be just a nonstop flight away. recent memory, The Bazaar will be the

PHOTO GRAP HS BY JA ME S ME RRE LL

kitchen of The Bazaar by José Andrés at the SLS Hotel in Beverly Hills, which opened just over a year ago and has since become the nation’s most talked-about restaurant. Even though it’s already 10 p.m., Andrés, the feisty star chef of the hit PBS show Made in Spain, has just turned up after dining on tapas (small plates) with friends in the restaurant’s private dining room. Redfaced and beefy, Andrés, 40, is only in town for a few days—he shows up in L.A. about once a month—and already he’s packed in a rousing talk at a restaurant industry conference (“You must invest in your R&D!” he told a room of captivated CEOs), an early morning interview, a meeting with partners and a GQ photo shoot. The Bazaar kitchen is carefully designed to operate smoothly without him—the chef has three kids, a wife, a house, and seven restaurants in Washington, D.C.—and tonight, his team’s churning out plates for hundreds of stylish diners, including Anthony

11/11/2009 20:41

Best coverage worldwide.

food &drink

PHOTO GRAP HS BY DA RKO ZAGA R

first in a series. SLS Hotels has plans to redo Miami’s Ritz Plaza and the Sahara Las Vegas, installing a Bazaar in each.

Andrés started his cooking career at age 15, choosing Barcelona’s best culinary school over a traditional high school. He soon wound up in the Michelin-starred kitchen of El Bulli, created by Ferran Adrià, the master of the avant-garde culinary movement, whom Andrés calls “the pope.”

When Andrés opened his first restaurants in Washington 16 years ago,

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HEM_1209_Food&Drink.indd 3

Spain was having a moment—but even today some people think “Spanish food” and still picture rice and beans. “We still have a long way to go, which is one of the reasons I have to work,” Andrés says. “Ninety-nine percent of paellas are not really paella! But we’re going to see a big acceleration in Spanish cuisine soon.

I’d prefer it I didn’t have to concentrate so much in the Spanish tradition, but if I don’t do it, who will?”

Andrés regularly dispels the widespread belief that he alone brought tapas to America, but he’s passionate about his role in their development.

“What is true is that no one was really doing tapas the way I did,” he says.

“Portions were bigger. A table of four might have four plates to share. My table of four had ten or twelve even smaller plates, and that was a dramatic change.”

The chef believes dining should be more social, more fun and more varied.

Others seem to agree. “Tapas now shows up in the most absurd places.

Korean, American…. And the ones that don’t want to create tapas do it anyway and call it ‘small dishes.’” In addition to the new outposts of The Bazaar, Andrés is also hatching plans for an airport restaurant concept and a new Washington minibar. Asked how he keeps on top of everything, he evokes Napoleon. “He waged war, but he was not just a warrior,” Andrés says. “He was a master of logistics.”

I congratulate him on having Yorke and Hopkins in the restaurant on the same night. “Also Luke Perry!” he says, demonstrating a surprising knowledge of teen-oriented ’90s television. Then he lets out a raucous laugh and squeezes my shoulder the way he does many of his staffers before heading back into the dining room. I watch as he sits down at a VIP booth, leans back and begins to chat animatedly with his customers. Meanwhile, as fast as the kitchen can turn out those little plates, waiters scoop them up and carry them out into the world.

L.A.-based journalist ADAM BAER loves small plates, as long as there are enough of them.

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10/11/2009 16:24

CULTURE | DECEMBER 2009

industry

63

Parental Guidance With mommy blogs proliferating, big corporations have begun cultivating authors with freebies, trips and even cash. Now readers are wondering, does mother really know best?

BY SARAH WILDMAN // ILLUSTRATIONS BY JAMES MAJOWSKI

IN LATE SEPTEMBER, a gaggle of 50-odd bloggers gathered 36 floors above Central Park in a conference room at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, snapping pics of the dramatic views. The writers were moms and dads mostly, all anxiously awaiting a product that promised to change their lives. “What happens when you try to chop veggies in a food processor?” celeb chef Robin Miller asked the crowd. “Mushy!” someone called back.

“Mushy!” Miller agreed, stuffing the Ninja Master Prep with mushrooms.

“Look at that! One, two, three pulses.

Your mushrooms? Done.” The crowd murmured appreciatively. “Wow, is that

HEM_1209_Industry.indd 1

going to make my life so much easier!” blogged one mom later that day. “I so want to make the curry chicken salad!” tweeted another.

Infomercial? Sort of. But this isn’t late-night TV. It’s the new reality of parental blogging: shilling for companies in exchange for freebies and trips to fun locales.

It used to be the definition of a mommy (or daddy) blogger was a parent anxious to navigate the tricky shoals of child-rearing by confiding in the outside world, chatting away in the internet’s electronic sandbox.

That was before audiences exploded.

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64

With some sites boasting 500,000 readers a month, these bloggers have become coveted corporate mouthpieces, showered in everything from onesies and granola bars to strollers and video game consoles.

That’s not to say every mom blogger has sold out to big business. At this point, conservative estimates place the number of mom and dad bloggers in the millions—and most of them still post about the agonies of potty training and sleep, or lack thereof. But it’s not so much their content as their prospective audiences that have made corporate America take notice. “Moms control about 2.1 trillion dollars in the United States,” says Maria Bailey, whose marketing and consulting firm BSM Media specializes in marketing to mothers, “and about eighty-six percent of all household income.”

More important, the blogs are incredibly influential. “One of the appeals for companies working with bloggers is that it is not advertising,” says Greg Allen, the dad behind Daddy Types, a smart site for new fathers that boasts just under 250,000 unique visitors each month and eschews paid posts. “It undercuts all the suspiciousness about ads because it is ‘real people’ talking about ‘real things.’”

MOTHER’S LITTLE HELPERS A few of the best—and most trustworthy— mommy blogs

HEM_1209_Industry.indd 2

“Initially, we were blogging because we enjoyed the community aspect of it and the feedback, and a lot of us wrote to feel less alone,” says Heather Armstrong of Dooce (a relative oldtimer, having blogged the better part of the last decade). With nearly a half-million unique visitors a month, the site carries ads from Verizon and Starbucks and earns enough to support Armstrong’s family. “Public relations reps are now reaching out to women saying ‘talk about this’ and ‘link to this,’ and the bloggers figure, ‘Oh, my God. They think I’m important!’ not realizing they are giving away free advertising,” she says. Armstrong keeps advertising and editorial content separate, but not everyone colors within those careful ethical lines.

Take Amy Clark, who launched MomAdvice almost six years ago. At first she focused on her own family’s techniques for “living well, on less.”

Her blog brought in a slew of readers.

That’s when Walmart came knocking.

“They want moms who live those values,” she says of being frugal, adding, “I only accept campaigns that fit with my audience.” She became one of Walmart’s ElevenMoms—mothers who’ve agreed to endorse Walmart and blog on the company’s website (the

number is now well above the initial 11).

Clark has also worked with Pantene, the shampoo company, on a challenge to see if home hair can look as good as salon hair, and she’s a spokeswoman for Cascade. But back on her blog, stories are still true to her initial intent: family life on the cheap. “I only want really good-quality content for my readers,” she says. “As long as you’re authentic and you have integrity and aren’t just out to get a freebie, your readers will know that.”

At MommyGoggles, the FAQ page issues requests for sponsorships, conference invites, free family trips and other gimmes. “I put a LOT of energy and thought into my posts,” the author promises corporations seeking reviews

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Kirsten Chase and Liz Gumbinher bring a witty style and real integrity to their posts about indie designers.

Heather Armstrong, listed by Forbes as one of America’s top 50 women in media, offers unadulterated musings on motherhood.

Launched by Greg Allen, a hipster techie with an eye for design, DaddyTypes brings a guy’s eye to the world of baby goods.

Detroit mom blogger Melissa Summers launched an online frenzy when she admitted to having a glass of wine during playdates.

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DECEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

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of their wares. “I want to promote your product the best that I can.” While she reserves the right not to post about a product that does not seem relevant, she adds quickly, “To date, I have not received an item for review that I did not feel fit my website or my readers.”

“It started with coupons,” says Lynette Young, whose marketing firm, Purple Stripe Productions, focuses on social media. “Then samples. Then it was the full product, and then it went on to sending samples to give away in sponsored contests.” For instance, Nicole Feliciano of MomTrends, a New York City–based shopping site for moms that gets 15,000 visitors a month, has received upward of 60 strollers for review. “Everything I write about, I’ve touched, seen and worked with personally,” she explains.

“I wish that, at this point, I did a little more just writing,” sighs Naomi Shapiro, an attendee of the Ninja Prep demo who writes SuperDumbSuperVillain.

“The review part has kind of, over time, taken over the personal blogging more than I would like. We are all reviewing the same things these days.”

Some are taking the idea of “reviews” even further. Over at ClassyMommy, Colleen Padilla’s disclosure page states upfront that posts can be purchased.

Is ClassyMommy, which has received more than 1,500 products for review, still a blog or a new kind of advertising?

And what about Frito-Lay’s “Fab15” bloggers and the “Frigidaire Test Drive Moms,” gaggles of hand-selected mom bloggers who regularly receive goods from these brands to post about them?

“It used to be the majority of mom bloggers were really great quality,” says Ellen Diamant, half of the übersuccessful duo behind Skip*Hop, creators of a ubiquitous diaper bag and other baby gear. “But now we get crazy requests like, ‘Here is my blog. Send me stuff.’ And you go and look, and it’s really poorly done.”

“We vet so many requests a day,” says Tricia Chan, whose PR firm

HEM_1209_Industry.indd 3

Public Group reps big names including Maclaren strollers. Many a parent, Chan says, salivates at the thought of a free buggy. “It went from ten or twenty requests a month to forty a week.” At the beginning of the mommy/daddy blogging boom the requests were no big deal. “Before, we’d just send it,” she says.

“Now you have to look into analytics and see who they’re hyperlinked to.”

couple to discuss the products they were using while raising now-fiveyear-old Zella, has become the Upton Sinclair of parent blogs, spending months researching, for instance, which companies were using BPA—a compound that has been shown to damage the endrocrine system when ingested in large quantities—in the production of sippy cups and bottles.

“I want to promote your product the best that I can,” one malleable mom blogger promises on her site.

The situation has raised eyebrows over at the Federal Trade Commission, which recently announced that it was changing the rules governing blogs (not just the mommy blogs), as well as Facebook and Twitter. Beginning December 1, bloggers must disclose paid posts, sponsored posts and items received for free.

“Is it really possible that someone could attend an all-expenses-paid trip to a desirable location to see a fifty dollar product demonstration, leave and write that they hated it?” wonders Jeremiah McNichols, half of the duo behind Z Recommends, a consumeradvocacy parenting blog. “I suppose it’s possible. But it does not appear to happen.” That’s what worried the FTC: Even if such posts aren’t advertising per se, it can be hard to separate the sponsored from the genuine.

Predictably, the rules change has come under furious assault on First Amendment grounds. But whatever happens with the new mandate, marketers are learning to tread carefully on the info superhighway.

It turns out, not all bloggers are equally malleable. “There are mom bloggers who will go and bash a product, and people are worried about that,” says Diamant.

Take McNichols and his wife, Jennifer, at Z Recommends. The site, which began in 2006 as a way for the

The couple found that a number of companies promoted as green were using the chemical and administered a tough-love digital spanking.

Recently, a number of mom bloggers have been promoting a voluntary code of ethical conduct called Blog with Integrity. It reads, in part, “When collaborating with marketers and PR professionals, I handle myself professionally and abide by basic journalistic standards.” Presumably they also play nice and keep their hands to themselves, too, just as mom and dad always said.

SARAH WILDMAN writes for some of the world’s top newspapers, but her baby kind of wishes she got more swag.

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Why log in when you can go out?

It’s Just Lunch Dating Specialist Amy Brinkman asks “Why waste time with online profiles and the bar scene when you could be on a date right now?”

There are no online profiles for the world to see, N How has dating changed over the years? From my and it’s up to the clients if they want to share more perspective, technology has changed everything. details during their date and exchange cards in When we started It’s Just Lunch eighteen years ago, order to meet again. As part of our policy, we don’t singles simply introduced themselves and began give out our clients’ last names or phone numbers. talking – done. Now, couples chat, email, instant message, tweet, text and even video chat. People N What kind of people would I meet through relate through their computers and mobile phones.

It’s Just Lunch? It’s Just Lunch clients are a This makes it easier than ever to stay in touch with diverse group representing many different someone you already know – but nearly impossible professions, career stages and educational to meet someone you don’t. Now the methods that backgrounds. Some have just moved to a new people used to rely on for romantic introductions are city and want to fast-forward to meeting gone, and people usually find themselves with just one like-minded people. We commonly network in their city: the “When you are ready see singles spending most of their office. That’s not always ideal time with people from work, but and busy singles don’t have the to start dating, they realize the pitfalls of dating time or desire to cruise the bars you want to start coworkers. They come to us to or scan online profiles. This is expand their social circle outside exactly where It’s Just Lunch immediately.” of work. Our clients do have one comes in. We introduce our Amy Brinkman, thing in common, though: they’re clients to real people – not DATING SPECIALIST ready to meet someone new. online profiles or phone numbers. We provide that missing network, and we N Any advice for the first-date conversation? do it in a way that fits into everyone’s hectic schedule.

Rule number one: Never talk about a past relationship. It can instill feelings N How does It’s Just Lunch “match” singles?

We believe that nothing replaces the human touch, of jealousy, awkwardness, or insecurity in seconds. If it comes up, give a brief and we don’t believe in “computer matches.” It answer and change the subject. Avoid doesn’t matter if you both like to jog, both like Chinese food, and both would like something long topics such as politics and religion term – you can like all the same things and still not until you’ve gotten to know each other better. Make a conscious effort to like each other. That’s why we use our intuition to create the match. First, we interview each client like ask or answer questions from your you would get to know a new friend, learning about most positive perspective. Studies show people find you more interesting their personalities, their likes and dislikes, and when you ask questions about them. their relationship goals. Then, we call to arrange If you don’t know what to ask, just their first date. We contact both clients, get their pause a moment to think . . . silence schedules, find a convenient time and place for can be sexy and mysterious. them to meet, and even make them a reservation.

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05/10/2009 16:33

CULTURE | DECEMBER 2009

diary

69

ROME IF YOU WANT TO And Sydney,

Paris and Miami—all at once.

Ramblin’ Man What happens when a boy’s obsession with traveling becomes a very grown-up affliction?

BY MARTIN MARKS // ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATSKO SEKI I’M WRITING THIS not from my apartment in New York but from my parents’ South Florida living room overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. Why? Because three days ago I needed to do laundry and wanted to go for a nice, long run on the beach. There were other problems, too.

A street lamp outside my window had started to go out. At night, its bulb filled my block with a loud, brain-rattling squeal. Also, I’d run out of dishwashing liquid—not to mention paper towels, bottled water and microwaveable macaroni and cheese—and the dishes had piled up so high that I’d invented a new verb (“ziggurating”) to describe

HEM_1209_Diary.indd 1

their slow creep toward the ceiling.

Those were all things I didn’t want to deal with. And so, two days later, I showed up in Fort Lauderdale—1,100 miles away—with my duffel bag and a pair of running shoes.

“Martin’s home,” my mom called out.

My dad popped his head around the corner, a bit bewildered. “Oh,” he said.

“Did he leave?”

I could understand his confusion. It was my second time down here in less than 10 days. But it used to be worse.

Much worse. A few years ago, I was traveling so much that my New York friends thought I’d moved back down

to Florida, while my Florida friends had no idea where I lived. Truth was, I was living everywhere, yet nowhere. In any given month, I might be paddling down tributaries of the Amazon in a dugout canoe, crashing in a tent outside Pompeii during an especially hot Neapolitan summer, grading papers in the smoky terminals of Malpensa airport, hopping a bullet train from Kyoto to Tokyo, or surfing at San Onofre State Beach. In 27 years, I’d lived on three continents and traveled to all the rest (except Antarctica, which is too cold). There was always another suitcase, another ticket, another flight.

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I bear the burden of refusing to be grounded, of kicking against permanence. It’s an uphill battle.

Especially when travel websites fill my inbox with email after email detailing their last-minute vacation packages.

For various reasons—most of them involving said websites, some of them involving laundry—I don’t think I’ve stayed in one place for more than two months. Ever. There was once a popular term that described this passion as the vice that it really is: Wanderlust. I’m bringing it back. In fact, I’ve started capitalizing the “W” to differentiate between innocent postcollege summers spent backpacking around Europe and the full-blown case of Wanderlust that I eventually developed.

I suppose my condition was

BATH WHIZ Reading Cheever in the tub

leads to a Wanderlust epiphany.

above the world I’d just entered. By the time I was two, I had already flown 116,334 miles. By my 10th birthday, I’d been tear-gassed and infected with parasites. That same year, my dad tried to buy four Coca-Colas at an airport in Zimbabwe. The barman pulled a machine gun on us. Then, for the very reasonable price of $20 a bottle, the barman put down his Kalashnikov and gave us our drinks. With a smile.

Meanwhile, of course, I’d seen the world. And I loved every minute of it. My youthful memories are viewed through the prism of a Boeing 747. I built my childhood fortresses not with sofa cushions but with thin airplane

I built my childhood fortresses not with sofa cushions but with thin airplane blankets draped over seatbacks. incubating long before I was born.

My dad joined the Royal Air Force right after medical school. During his five years in Her Majesty’s service, he lived in Germany and Cyprus, slept in abandoned leper colonies and dangled from helicopters above the icy North Sea, before becoming a heart surgeon.

My mom played international tennis, volleying from the clay courts of Roland Garros to the soft lawns of Wimbledon.

They met on a hotel pool deck in Cape Town and were engaged two weeks later.

For the first few years of their marriage, they traveled. And traveled some more—to Taiwan and Hawaii, to North Carolina to see the Jaws opening run and to New York for cheesecake at Carnegie Deli. But they wanted to start a family, and children meant bottles and diapers and nursery rhymes, not tray tables and baggage carousels and preflight safety announcements. When my mom got pregnant, they decided to kick their Wanderlust à deux—cold turkey.

After less than a month, they relapsed. At three weeks old, I was sitting on my mother’s lap on a flight bound for the Bahamas, soaring high

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blankets draped over seatbacks. My occasional stomachaches were treated by friendly flight attendants bearing ginger ale. After another young Wanderluster—my sister—joined the family, our pillow fights were largely ineffectual battles, thanks to those small airline pillows. When I started school, my tray table became a collapsible desk.

I ate Goldfish crackers in the airport lounge at Heathrow for my afternoon snack. We were a family united by a love of wandering, and I was always along for the flight.

I slowed down a little for high school and college, but after that my condition increased markedly in severity. One Wednesday afternoon, the thought crossed my mind that I’d never been to Machu Picchu. By Friday I was standing outside my friend’s apartment in Cuzco wearing New Balances and an elementary school backpack, convinced that this was all we’d need to conquer the Inca Trail. (I finally acquiesced to my friend’s far more mundane idea of taking the train.)

The advent of travel websites—no more telephone calls, no more travel agents—meant that I could meander the firmament free from third-party interlopers. I upgraded to a new credit card seeking the extra miles, airport lounges, free sodas (the free sodas alone paid for the credit card). I began to spend more time in airports than I did in my own bedroom.

But where to next? What if a family wedding at one end of the globe coincided with a writer’s conference at the other? No problem. My life was in constant motion. From Miami to Los Angeles to Sydney to Cairns I’d go, backtracking from Sydney to Los Angeles to Miami, and then on to Paris and St. Petersburg. That particular odyssey took place in 12 days, after which my first two weeks in Russia were a cacophonous blur. I didn’t know when to eat or sleep. And I couldn’t have been happier. I was a full-blown Wanderluster—with all of its attendant side effects.

Later that year, I was reading John

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Cheever in a marble bathtub at a hotel in Los Angeles when I realized that there’d been a change. I was living in New York, but it hadn’t quite taken, and a weeklong stay on the West Coast had entered its second month. “When you’re in one place and long to be in another, it isn’t as simple as taking a boat,” I read, as I sat in the lukewarm tub. “You don’t really long for another country. You long for something in yourself that you don’t have, or haven’t been able to find.”

In my case, that wasn’t quite true.

Instead of longing for something inside of me, I had been avoiding the search altogether. Adventure had somehow become an escape from life, a way of standing still. While my friends were getting married, having children, paying mortgages, losing jobs—all the sloppy things of life—I had abandoned any sense of permanence in exchange for perpetual motion. For the first time, the travel felt compulsive, involuntary.

The joy was missing.

At a wedding in Florida around Valentine’s Day 2007, I had a revelation.

Surrounded by old friends and classmates, I stared up at the dark cloudless February sky on one of the coldest nights on record and began to think of the fast-moving clouds as they crept across Cape Town’s Table Mountain, and the dawn casting its orange light through a lace curtain in Rome. I thought of the endless lime green of rice fields after a downpour in southern Japan, the corn fields and wheat fields, Niagara Falls and Iguazu Falls. With Cheever’s words ringing in my head, and with the faces of loved ones before me, I felt that I found what I’d been wandering for. As we talked long into the night after the wedding, I realized that in all my ramblings and peregrinations, I had never been as content as I was at that moment, among people I knew and loved.

Man, I thought, if only I could persuade each and every one of them to come with me to Corfu. It’s absolutely gorgeous in the spring.

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artifact

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In Tulum, Mexico, a shaman burns shards of aromatic copal resin during a temezcal—an ancient Mayan cleansing ceremony involving chants and P. a sauna of sorts.

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THE GIRLS OF SUMMER Three contenders are ready to spar.

By Tricia Despres

CRAZY TOURIST Gabriel Orozco sees art just about everywhere.

By Aaron Gell

3PD: RIVIERA MAYA Leaving those other rivieras in the dust

By Mike Guy

PHOTOGRAPH BY CLAIRE BENOIST

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THE GIRLS OF SUMMER FOR THE FIRST TIME EVER, WOMEN BOXERS WILL COMPETE IN THE FIGHTERS CONSIDERED TOP GOLD MEDAL CONTENDERS, THE THAT THEY AREN’T LIGHTWEIGHTS. 74

BY TRICIA DESPRES PHOTOGRAPHS BY THOMAS CHADWICK UNITED.COM DECEMBER 2009

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OLYMPICS, IN LONDON’S 2012 SUMMER GAMES. FOR THE THREE CHICAGO HARDEST PART MAY BE PROVING TO THE WORLD

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SAMANTHA GUZMAN, 20 REIGNING ILLINOIS STATE U.S. CHAMPION (FLYWEIGHT)

HEIGHT: 5' 2" • WEIGHT: 101 lbs AMATEUR RECORD: 21–5 HOMETOWN: OAK PARK, ILLINOIS

SAMANTHA GUZMAN EMERGES FROM THE LOCKER ROOM AT THE JABB BOXING GYM IN CHICAGO, AND THE FIRST THING YOU NOTICE IS HER SHINING HAIR, WHICH SHE WRAPS DELICATELY INTO A BUN A FEW STRANDS AT A TIME AND THEN SECURES WITH A BUTTERFLY CLIP. THEN YOU NOTICE HER FINGERNAILS—LONG, PAINTED AND PERFECTLY SHAPED. SHE STUFFS HER HANDS INTO BRIGHT RED EVERLAST BOXING GLOVES, LACING THEM UP AS SHE WALKS PAST A WALL OF MIRRORS TOWARD THE RING. GUZMAN’S EYES, RIMMED WITH EYELINER, ARE PIERCING AND COLD, READY TO STARE DOWN HER OPPONENT.

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She steps into the ring with a sparring partner about her age—20 years old— and starts dancing lightly on the balls of her feet, then stepping quickly left and right. It’s that same movement you’ve seen time and again in footage of Muhammad Ali or Oscar De La Hoya or Rocky Balboa. She claps her gloves together, beckoning her opponent to make a move.

Guzman is one of around 2,500 female boxers in the United States whose future plans changed radically this past August, when the International Olympic Committee announced that women’s boxing will be a part of the 2012 Summer

Olympic Games in London. Men’s boxing was added 105 years ago, and until August the sport was the only one in the Summer Olympics without a female discipline. Now Guzman and two other young boxers from Chicago, Tiffany Perez and Alicia Gutierrez, are considered top contenders to win the first-ever gold medal in female boxing.

After sparring a couple of rounds as her father and coach, Angel, watches closely and quietly offers guidance, Guzman stands by a line of heavy bags.

Weighing just a tick over 100 pounds, with limbs more slender than you might expect from a National Golden Gloves

Women’s Champion, she is proud, confident, witty and full of opinions— not unlike Ali. A light rain is falling outside the wrought-iron casement windows. She says she’s no longer distracted by the things that rattled her when she started out. “I don’t think about the pain,” she says. “I think about the fact that the person standing in front of me in the ring wants to hurt me, break something, knock me down. Luckily, that’s when the adrenaline takes over.

I open my eyes up as wide as I can. My ears are clear but I don’t hear anything.

Everything goes silent.”

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ALICIA GUTIERREZ, 15

TIFFANY PEREZ, 20

JUNIOR OLYMPIC STATE CHAMPION

CHICAGO GOLDEN GLOVES CHAMPION (THREE YEARS RUNNING)

HEIGHT: 5' 4" • WEIGHT: 125 lbs AMATEUR RECORD: 3–2 HOMETOWN: PARK RIDGE, ILLINOIS

HEIGHT: 4' 11" • WEIGHT: 119 lbs AMATEUR RECORD: 35–6 HOMETOWN: HAMMOND, INDIANA

she’s punched her way to Illinois State U.S. Champion and a national ranking in the light flyweight division. Despite her bluster, the stats surprise her. “I was the little girl who would skin her knee and run to hide behind my dad,” she says.

“Now the same dad I hid behind is my coach, always encouraging me.”

Once known as “Scrawny Sam,” Guzman told her parents she wanted to box back in 2005, after three years competing in gymnastics. “I remember my dad telling me that you don’t ‘play’ boxing. You ‘play’ soccer. You ‘play’ basketball. But this is boxing. You can get hurt.” Her parents tried to talk her out of it, even taking Samantha to a showing of Clint Eastwood’s Oscarwinning weeper Million Dollar Baby, which doesn’t end well for the main character, a scrappy female boxer. The film was meant to dissuade her, but the plan backfired.

“I saw that movie and knew right then and there I wanted to get into that ring,” she says. “I think people inherently don’t like women hitting each other. I happen to enjoy it.”

Turns out she’s not the only one; a number of young competitors are preparing for the games. “In the last few months, we’ve already seen more and more female boxers working to shift their weight so they fall into one of the three categories,” says Christy Halbert, head of the U.S.A. Boxing women’s task force.

“Of course, we were disappointed that they are only offering the three weight classes. The men have ten. Hopefully the remaining ones will be added in 2016.”

In London, women will compete at flyweight (105–112 pounds), lightweight (123–132 pounds) and middleweight (152–165 pounds). With four medals awarded in each class, a little math shows there’s enough room for only

12 female boxers from around the world to make it to the podium. By comparison, 40 medals will be handed out to the men.

“Just twelve women out of the entire world?” exclaims Guzman, who’s old enough to know that her only shot at the Olympics will be in London. “That’s not an Olympic Games, that’s an exhibition!

For us, the world championships are more like the Olympics than the actual Olympics will be. Of course, I’m pretty psyched we’ll get the chance.”

Halbert isn’t convinced it’s merely an exhibition. “These boxers are going to have to perform at the top of every level before they get to London,” she says.

“The top echelon in their weight classes, then the top echelons internationally.

But I think that no matter how they do, just participating in this fight to make the very first female Olympic team is an impressive part of sports history.”

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“WHEN I’M TRAINING, I DON’T HAVE A LIFE,” SAYS TIFFANY PEREZ.

“BOXING IS MY LIFE.”

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AT FOUR FEET, 11 INCHES, Tiffany Perez is tiny, but that’s not her greatest obstacle. She was diagnosed with severe asthma at the age of four, around the same time she first started watching Puerto Rican superstar boxers Felix Trinidad and, later, Miguel Cotto fighting on TV. Her fascination grew.

Still, when she first stepped into the ring at 13, no one figured she had the fortitude to jog around the block twice, much less make a serious run at Olympic gold.

“My parents thought I would quit the very first time I got hit square in the face,” says Perez, who’s now a pre-med student at Purdue University. “They would tell me, ‘You don’t want to fight,’ or say, ‘Why would you want to mess up your face?’ They were surprised when I told them I could handle it—again and again and again.”

“We always say her head moves are straight out of The Matrix,” says her father, Jimmy, a former tae kwon do instructor who works 12-hour shifts at a local manufacturing plant. “You don’t tell Tiffany what to do. She just does it.”

Perez travels an hour into Chicago from her home in the middle-class suburb of Hammond, Indiana, to train with her coach, Rick Furnuto. At home, she works out in the basement gym that her father built for her in the family’s house. She wears a necklace with a gold pendant of a boxing glove and competes in a shorts-skirt combo embroidered with the Puerto Rican flag.

“When I am training, I don’t have a life,” explains Perez, who is the Chicago Golden Gloves Champion three years running. “Boxing is my life.”

That’s a sentiment shared by her fellow boxers. You don’t “play” boxing.

“It kind of sucks that I didn’t go to prom or my homecoming,” says Guzman, whose perfect teeth and fine features should make her a sought-after date. “I’ve lost a lot of friends and missed all kinds of trips to McDonald’s.”

Perez and Guzman know each other well, though they’re not the closest of friends. They travel the same circuit of regional and national bouts, and spend a lot of time in the same locker rooms. As Guzman once confided to a local reporter, “I’ve never been a team player.” But they share an obsession. It’s like a sisterhood.

ALICIA GUTIERREZ IS READY TO RUMBLE.

“We boxers are a different breed of human,” Perez says. “No one quite understands us or where we come from.”

IT TOOK A FEW YEARS for the mother of 15-year-old Alicia Gutierrez to figure it out. Longtime Chicagoan Christina Gutierrez’s daughter first came to her at seven years old asking to take boxing lessons. “I never took her seriously,” says the elder Gutierrez.

“When she was in second grade, I signed her up for everything—ballet, T-ball, basketball, everything in the parks deparment brochure. She played basketball and ended up on a national championship team. But when she turned twelve, she started asking about boxing again. I had to give in.”

Gutierrez, a Maine South High School sophomore, is taller than Perez and Guzman. She is learning always to go into a match with a plan neatly worked out in her head of how the match will unfold.

“First round, I feel them out to see what kind of style they have,” she explains.

“The second round, I figure out what I need to work on to beat her. The third round, I go for it.”

Fights don’t always go according to plan. Like all boxers, male or female, her education has been, at times, brutal.

“We were in Colorado last year for the national tournament, and in the first round my opponent came at me with an uppercut that hit me right under the ribs,” Gutierrez says. “I froze. My eyes started to water, and I couldn’t breathe. But I never got scared. Being scared would keep me from going back in the ring.”

“I’ve been ready to quit plenty of times,” says Guzman, who’d like to go pro. But she’s realistic. “I’m a small girl, and I’m not stupid. I know my body wasn’t built for this kind of wear and tear. I don’t know how much longer I can do this. Now there is a chance to compete in the Olympics. There is no way I’m going out without a fight.”

Chicago writer TRICIA DESPRES is still uncomfortable with women hitting each other.

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CRAZY TOURIST

CONCEPTUAL ARTIST GABRIEL OROZCO TRAVELS THE WORLD, FINDING ART IN THE MOST UNUSUAL PLACES.

BY AARON GELL

PORTRAITS

BY FIONA ABOUD

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PHOTO GRA PHS THI S PAGE COURTE SY OF MA RIAN GOODMA N GALLE RY NEW YORK

CREWS BATTLE

EMPTY SHOE BOX

YOGURT CAPS

1996

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IN

PHOTO GRA PHS THI S PAGE COURTE SY OF MA RIAN GOODMA N GALLE RY, NEW YORK

1991, THE ARTIST GABRIEL OROZCO WENT TO BRAZIL TO BE WITH A GIRL. “I FOLLOWED HER BECAUSE I WAS IN LOVE, OKAY?” HE SAYS OF THE SPANISH ANTHROPOLOGY STUDENT WITH WHOM HE WAS SMITTEN (SHE’S NOW HIS WIFE). “IT WAS, YOU KNOW, ‘LET’S GO TO BRAZIL.’ ‘OKAY, WHATEVER!’” WHILE HIS COMPANION PURSUED HER FIELD STUDIES, OROZCO SPENT HIS DAYS WANDERING THE STREETS, THINKING ABOUT ART AND PHILOSOPHY AND POETRY AND LIFE, AND MOSTLY JUST LOOKING. THE 19TH CENTURY POET CHARLES BAUDELAIRE HAD A NAME FOR DEVOTEES OF THIS SORT OF URBAN EXPLORATION—HE CALLED THEM FLÂNEURS—ARISTOCRATIC GENTLEMEN WHO MADE AN ART FORM OUT OF STROLLING AIMLESSLY THROUGH PARIS, SOAKING UP THE IRONIC DETAILS OF MODERN LIFE. OROZCO WOULD TAKE THE PRACTICE A STEP FURTHER. WHEN THE URBAN LANDSCAPE DECLINED TO OFFER UP THE SORT OF POETRY HE SOUGHT, HE’D ROLL UP HIS SLEEVES AND CREATE IT. For instance, one day at dusk, Orozco found himself in the town marketplace in Cachoeira, a town in Bahia on the Paraguaçu River. The vendors had all gone home for the evening, and their rough-hewn wooden tables, normally laden with produce, were bare. A bustling town center by day, the place was deserted except for a handful of indigent men, who looked on quizically as the young visitor contemplated the scene for a moment, spied a pile of rotting oranges in the corner and began bustling around placing them on the tables, positioning the fruit just so.

Orozco was performing what art world types might call “an intervention,” but his audience that evening just thought he was nuts. “Turista maluco!” they teased, as the artist took a few steps back and began to document the odd tableau with his camera.

Truth be told, the resulting photograph, Crazy Tourist (which will be on view at the Museum of Modern Art in New York beginning December 13 as part of Orozco’s midcareer retrospective before traveling to the Kunstmuseum Basel and the Centre Georges Pompidou in Paris) isn’t really much to look at. Then again, that’s kind of the idea. In fact, Gabriel Orozco is absolutely determined to underwhelm you.

It might seem an odd ambition, but for Orozco, who

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grew up in Mexico City surrounded by art (his father was a prominent muralist and his mother a pianist), only a viewer whose expectations have been dashed and presumptions shattered will be truly receptive to the elusive poetry of the moment, the kind that can creep up on you and change the way you see the world.

“Disappointment has always been important in my work,” the 48-year-old artist says with a smile, sitting at a sidewalk table at a coffee shop in New York’s Greenwich Village.

Dressed head to toe in black, Orozco is small and intense, with knowing eyes and slightly wild gray curls spilling over his ears. He currently divides his time between New York, Paris, Mexico City and Bonn, Germany, though he insists he feels at home everywhere. “It’s not just traveling,” he says. “I think of it as travel-living, really a multicountry life. And I feel like we’re really the first generation to do this. We’re making it up as we go along.” With a four-year-old son, Simón, about to enter kindergarten, Orozco admits he may have to settle down soon. He’s leaning toward New York, where he’s currently overseeing construction work on a townhouse in the Village— not far, he points out with a raised eyebrow, from a Five Guys burger franchise. Orozco has an impish side, and while he

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La D.S.

ELEVATOR

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generally gravitates to cerebral topics such as Monet’s Water Lilies and the music of avant-garde composer John Cage, he’s equally at home debating the merits of the Speed Racer movie, of which, perhaps surprisingly, he’s a big fan.

Still, much as he loves the occasional visual extravaganza, he has no real interest in creating one. Having entered the art world at a time when in-your-face gestures and eye-popping— if not always profound—spectacles predominated, Orozco has generally headed in the opposite direction.

“An artist can always entertain or amaze or amuse,” he says in his slightly accented English. “It’s not really very difficult to do that. But as usually happens with the spectacles put on by the entertainment industry, you tend to forget them as soon as you leave the theater or the gallery. Creating something that you actually remember later, that becomes important for you—that is not so easy.”

That’s why, the artist adds, he tries so hard not to fulfill viewers’ expectations. “Because only if your expectations are unmet can the poetic happen.”

This counterintuitive approach has made Orozco one of the most celebrated artists of his generation, widely praised for his cryptic and deceptively low-key touch. One of his most famous pieces is a photograph of condensation from his own breath on a grand piano; another depicts the ephemeral trails left by his bicycle tires passing through a puddle. He’s made mobiles from dryer lint and from ribbons of toilet paper suspended from ceiling fans. For one major European art fair in 1993, Orozco showed a piece titled Empty Shoe Box. (The real challenge of creating that work, he later said, was replacing the boxes when the custodial crew repeatedly tossed them out with the garbage.)

And then there was Orozco’s first solo show in New York, at Marian Goodman Gallery in 1994, which consisted of nothing more than four yogurt lids, affixed to each of the gallery’s four walls. That piece, too, will be in the retrospective—and, yes,

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in case anyone’s wondering, they’re actually the same lids.

“They were in the hands of a young collector,” Orozco says incredulously. “He was crazy enough to buy them at the time.

A New Yorker, of course.”

It’s tempting to discount such work as silly at best, a total scam at worst. That’s exactly what many gallerygoers did when Yogurt Caps opened in 1994, emitting a knowing snort and heading down the block to the next gallery.

But then, Orozco would later recall, they started trickling back in. And this time, instead of dismissing Yogurt Caps as a smug joke, they let themselves sit with the work and actually absorb its strange resonance. Some no doubt recognized the piece as a direct descendant of the readymades of Marcel Duchamp and of Andy Warhol’s famous Campbell’s soup cans. Others might have noticed how the caps seemed to form an invisible cross, turning the room into a sort of shrine (a reference perhaps to the Catholicism of Orozco’s homeland?).

To others, the four caps recalled the points of a compass, prompting a new awareness of the empty space of the gallery itself, and of the cosmos beyond its walls. Because they were made of clear plastic, they were a little like windows or lenses, too, maybe portholes—but looking where? Some viewers studied the sell-by dates for some secret, like evidence at a crime scene. Others no doubt thought about the yogurt itself— suddenly transported, like Proust with his madeleine, by their own memories of breakfasts gone by. And what of the artist?

Presumably he’d actually eaten this yogurt, in which case the piece was a kind of self-portrait once-removed, hinting at a favorite snack. And on and on...

To Orozco, all possible interpretations are valid. Indeed, the piece itself is secondary to the response it provokes. His intent with Yogurt Caps was simply to evoke that web of connections, to give birth to a moment of poetic reflection. “I want the art to be a kind of instrument for people to use for their own benefit,” he says. “Art is not for entertainment, and it’s not for

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MOBILE MATRIX

PING POND TABLE

FRO M LE F T, P HOTOGRA PHS COU RTE SY O F KURI MAN ZUTTO, ME XICO C ITY; GA LE RIE CHA NTAL CROUS EL , PARIS ; MARIA N GOO DMAN GA LLERY, N EW YORK (4)

1998

UNTIL YOU FIND ANOTHER

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pleasure. It’s about something else altogether. Art is a tool.

If someone, after looking at the work, can see things they never saw before in reality, that is one of the most important accomplishments for me.”

While all of Orozco’s works share the same goal, they reach it by wildly divergent paths—after all, you can show only so many shoe boxes. Indeed, some pieces have been remarkably elaborate. There was, for instance, Mobile Matrix, which consisted of the enormous skeleton of a gray whale, inscribed with a series of radiating lines and suspended from the ceiling of the José Vasconcelos Library in Mexico City. La D.S. was a Citroën that the artist had sliced vertically into thirds then reassembled without its center slice. Elevator is an empty elevator, salvaged from a demolished Chicago office tower and placed on its own in a gallery, lit invitingly within. And Ping Pond Table is more or less what it sounds like, but shaped like a four-leaf clover and with a lily pond in the center. In recent years, Orozco even returned to painting, going so far as to master Renaissance techniques for mixing pigments and applying gold leaf—an uncharacteristically traditional move that took the art world by surprise.

Oddly, whatever the medium, Orozco’s pieces all feel exactly

“AN ARTIST CAN ALWAYS ENTERTAIN OR AMAZE OR AMUSE. CREATING SOMETHING THAT YOU ACTUALLY REMEMBER LATER—THAT IS NOT SO EASY.”

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like Orozcos. But then, in a way, so does everything else. Spend a little time around the artist’s work, and you begin to have the odd sensation of seeing it all around you. You notice things.

I’m not sure how long the effect lasts, but after poring over his catalogs, struggling through a stack of dense scholarly essays and passing a pleasant morning with the artist himself, I find I can’t walk a block without having an Orozco Moment. I spot a motor scooter locked up beside a lamppost and am reminded of a chained animal, of the potential for speed and escape, of a reclining figure by abstract sculptor Henry Moore. (Only later do I remember that Orozco has also used scooters in his work, in a 1995 piece comprising 40 photographs of the artist’s own yellow scooter parked next to identical bikes he encountered around Berlin.) I notice a section of construction fencing, a half-deflated birthday balloon, the contents of a trash can—everyday fragments of city life, all suddenly pregnant with meaning.

“That’s what’s really important about art,” Orozco says, “the possibility to see reality differently, to see things in a new way.

The objects are just vehicles for awareness.”

I ask him if he’s planning to create any new work for the MoMA retrospective. His last show there, in 1993, included another citrus-based intervention he improvised at the last minute, sending the museum’s normally meticulous curatorial staff into a tizzy. The piece, which involved placing oranges in the windows of neighboring apartment buildings, was called Home Run—and despite its apparent simplicity, it was one. With the opening still a few months away, Orozco has been visiting the new space, waiting for inspiration to strike. Whatever he comes up with, he promises, it will surely disappoint us. Guaranteed. “Don’t worry about that,” he says with a laugh. “It’s going to happen.”

Hemispheres editor in chief AARON GELL has a sudden, unexplained appetite for yogurt.

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Three Perfect Days

RIVIERA MAYA

Once the land of the ancient Maya, the Yucatán Peninsula is home to pristine beaches, rugged ruins and very few tourists // BY MIKE GUY // PHOTOGRAPHS BY EHREN JOSEPH

90 DAY ONE

Strolling in Playa del Carmen

95 DAY TWO

96 DAY THREE

Swimming in Akumal’s Half Moon Bay

Diving in the Dos Ojos Cenote

STONE, IMMACULATE The ruins in Tulum

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BLUE LAGOONS Clockwise, from

above right, on the beach at Akumal; mirrored suites at the Banyan Tree Mayakoba; the bar, a beachfront villa and poolside at the Rosewood Mayakoba

LIKE ITS DIAMOND-STUDDED FRENCH NAMESAKE ALONG THE MEDITERRANEAN, the Riviera Maya—a stretch of coastline on the Yucatán Peninsula that reaches from just south of Cancún to the peaceful village of Tulum—is a shimmering white-sand playland of the well-to-do. But it can be experienced much more affordably than Monaco, Cap d’Antibes or even Venice. On this riviera, the main attractions aren’t Bianca Jagger in a tiara or even Matthew Perry carousing in St. Tropez, but instead mysterious, vast underwater sinkholes called cenotes, peaceful beachside palapas, a preponderance of yoga mats, and the granite tops of millennium-old Mayan ruins emerging from thick jungle canopies.

The region rode a rising tide of tourism for a decade, with visitors attracted by the Caribbean Coast’s quiet beauty and an abundance of calming retreats among the ruins of Tulum. But what with the recent economic situation, there are now spectacular deals to be had in luxury lodging, and the sites are relaxingly free of crowds. Serenity now.

1

DAY ONE Wake up to the perfect stillness of the mangrove lagoon, and peer through the

sheer voile drapes out onto the Caribbean Sea, grateful you didn’t stop in Cancún. Though it’s a great party town, Cancún fulfills a very specific need (i.e., to party). You’re more interested in taking in the area’s natural beauty, indulging in a bit of luxury and learning about the ancient Mayan culture. So you’ve opted to stay at the Rosewood Mayakoba (1), one of four completed resorts in a 240-acre development consortium, called Mayakoba, built with a reasonably light footprint behind the sandy dunes lining the placid sea. Though it’s just 40 minutes south of the rowdy clamor of Cancún’s zona hotelera, it might as well be another planet.

You climb to your private villa’s rooftop salon— complete with an invigorating plunge pool—and take note of the Greg Norman–designed El Cameleon golf course. For a moment, you’re tempted to play a round.

Instead, hop into the Ford Escape hybrid you picked up at the airport, and drive to Playa del Carmen, the bustling heart of the Riviera Maya. Once upon a time, Playa, as the locals call it, was a sleepy seaside pueblo of dirt lanes and huaracherias. Now, it’s wide awake. The crowded main thoroughfare, Avenida Quinta, gives off a highly cosmopolitan vibe. If you pass the Starbucks and Häagen-Dazs stores and the majority of the Mexican

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ARMANDO CHABLE, 24, LIFEGUARD // “Right off Mayakoba there is a reef that has some of the best fishing in this region. It’s just beyond the north of Mayakoba. You can even fish from land if you have a big enough fishing pole.”

tchotchke shops, you can find plenty of interest along the way. There are chaya juice stands, taquerias and the Kumkum & Mezcal Room (2), where you can sample one of 150 of the best brands of firewater in the world.

Sampling is all you’ll be doing at this hour, of course, but grab a bottle of Arellana to go.

Strolling farther, you come to 100% Natural (3), a healthy, happy and shady grotto set well back from the crowds on La Quinta. Take a seat among surfers and hippies, and order a salad of fresh camarones and piña and a couple of chicken tacos. Then while away the afternoon at the beach at the end of 12th Street, soaking in the vitamin D and surf scene before dinner.

Ever wonder what the ancient Mayans used to eat? Of course you have. It’s time to find out at Yaxche (4), where you sit before the bewitching altar of an ancient Mayan divinity and order a heaping portion of tikin xic, a flaky fillet of locally snagged grouper marinated in achiote paste and served on banana leaves.

Now it’s time to saunter along Playa’s storied playa. You weave among the lovers and the late-night swimmers until you hit the Zenzi Beach Bar (5), a local favorite that hosts movies in the sand on a wide-screen TV every Monday at 8 p.m. You grab a reclining seat and take in a few minutes of The Shining as the moon shines above the sea.

“Aqui estaaaa Juanito!”

Getting up to order a drink, you confide in the bartender that as much as you love Kubrick, you’d prefer to dance a little salsa. She recommends Coco Bongo (6), a popular night club on 10th Avenue and 12th Street. Cross La Quinta, which is now a tangle of well-lubricated tourists and roving mariachi trios, and soon find yourself sweating under the disco ball. On the way back to the hotel, you stop at the local favorite, HC de Monterrey (7), for some steak tacos smothered in black chile sauce so fiery your mouth will still be tingling as your head hits the pillow.

BASKET CASE Clockwise, from top, the Kumkum & Mezcal Room in Playa del Carmen; the

cabaña deck at Azulik; Playa’s Zenzi Beach Bar; and a taco from HC de Monterrey

ILLUSTRATIONS BY ESRA CAROLINE RØISE

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DOWN MEXICO WAY

Local residents in the Yucatรกn

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SADDLE UP! Patrolling the beach at Punto Venado

P H O T O G R A P H O F C H I L I S BY S H U T T E R S T O C K

2

DAY TWO The arpeggios from Coco Bongo still ring in your ears this morning

as you smear on some SPF 50, hop in your car and drive 10 miles south. You’re going to see a man about a horse at Punto Venado (1). Here, you help your guide, Tomás, saddle up a handsome bay, and you take off for a jaunt into the jungle. This area of the Riviera Maya is untouched by developers, and the low-canopy growth is pristine. As you clop-clop along the trail, spider monkeys follow, swinging along the mangrove branches and screeching critically at your poor riding posture. As you finish the trek on the beach, you realize you haven’t seen another tourist all day.

Take a quick refresher in the Rosewood’s rooftop plunge pool, check out and head to the Banyan Tree Mayakoba to sample the magical world of Saffron (2), the signature restaurant at this brand new, Asian-themed resort. Accented with curving, wood-planked roofs that arc above the jungle canopy like wings, Banyan Tree has a zenlike hush. At Saffron, you take a table at the end of a narrow wooden pier, and watch the alligators patrol the still water of the lagoon below. Servers deliver Thai dishes cooked with local flair— delicate squid rubbed with black habanero peppers and grouper grilled with pineapple and green curry.

Time for a dive. You pull off Highway 307 at the sleepy town of Akumal and bounce along the rutted road that curves the length of Half Moon Bay until you arrive at the extra-friendly Akumal Dive Shop (3). Strap on a scuba tank—or snorkel—and follow your guide out to the nearby coral recifes, where you find a wallowing procession of tortugas, large, highly charismatic sea turtles that call Half Moon Bay home. You rub one’s shell, to the dive master’s consternation.

SYLVIA ARANDA, 19, On your way out of town, stop at Turtle SHOPKEEPER // “Tulum has Bay Bakery & Café (4), a cheerful watering a lot of really nice places to walk in the jungle and hole where you replenish your fluids with a see nature. Go south on the pitcher of sweetened chaya iced tea. Order a beach road to the Sian Ka’an crisp and citrusy ceviche with prawns, Biosphere. There’s a trail that calamari and fish caught in the bay to go starts in the Maya Tulum along with it. As you cool off, you spot a parking lot.”

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FOOD OF THE GODS // How to eat like a Mayan // Ancient Mayan cuisine was based on the “three sisters,” the staples of all North American food: maize, squash and beans, together with tapir, peccaries and various other animals you’ve never heard of. Experts say the Mayans also dosed every dish heavily with fiery chili peppers, which grew like weeds in the Yucatán 3,000 years ago. Today, the basic ingredients are the same with some extras. Chaya is a delicious leafy relative of spinach and is found throughout the Riviera Maya in everything from veggie juices to omelets. Significantly, the Mayans are believed to have been the first people to use the cacao (a.k.a. chocolate) bean, in a dish called xocolatl, which was a fiery mocktail meant to please the gods. Made of corn meal, honey, cacao and chili peppers all ground together, this bitter and incendiary concoction is more difficult to find today, but it’s worth the effort.

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sign mock-threatening that “All unattended children will be given a free kitten.”

Hit the road for Tulum, just 10 miles south. In the past few years, this tiny coastal town has grown into a destination for beach lovers, health nuts and yoga fanatics. Like Playa del Carmen, it has undergone a transformation since the beginning of the decade. Yoga resorts, spas and so-called “eco chic” lodges line the now-paved beach road.

Among the best is Azulik (5), a resort consisting of 15 postcard-perfect palapas perched on stilts. In keeping with the eco theme, there is no electricity here, and running water is limited to the toilets in each of the airy, screened-in huts. Mosquito nets adorn the beds, and there’s a large shaded porch with a plunge pool carved from a tree stump. It is romantic and rustic—so much so that after walking down the road to tony Maya Tulum (6) for an invigorating session of Iyengar yoga, you decide to order in fresh grilled camarones and spicy steamed vegetables, which you finish by candlelight before calling it a night. Namaste.

DAY THREE At daybreak, you arise to the sound of surf roaring beyond your porch. A light breeze buffets the mosquito net. You practice a couple of sun salutations and then hop in the car and drive to the inland pueblo of Tulum, to Don Cafeto (1), a locally favored breakfast joint. Opt for the Mayan breakfast, a hearty (though not so heart-healthy) portion of fried eggs and tomatoes, chaya, and bacon.

Happily stuffed with this “ancient” recipe, you drive the 30 miles inland to Coba (2).

At the high point of Mayan civilization, about 1,500 years ago, there were 50,000 inhabitants living around Coba’s two lakes. Today, the actual village is a dusty handful of shops.

Tourists amble through the heat down a milelong path to see Nohoch Mul (3), which, at 140 feet, is the tallest pyramid on the Yucatán. For better or worse, it’s the only one left in Mexico that you can still climb. So, despite the heat and the vertiginous incline, that’s exactly what you do. At the top, you rest and inspect the altar—likely the site of human sacrifice—and the ancient image of the Descending God carved above it. The view from Nohoch Mul is well worth the effort: verdant jungle as far as the eye CHRISTIAN VARGAS, 32, STREET can see, patrolled from above by VIOLINIST // “There is no better place in Playa del Carmen than swooping hawks and quetzals.

La Quinta at night, but I also like Hire one of the pedicabs to deliver you dancing at Coco Bongo, and very back to the parking lot, and stop in the late at night there is a great village at Nicte Ha (4), a clean and party on the beach at the end of Twelfth Street.” friendly café that serves piping hot

3

THE ROAD TO RUIN A spooky detail from the ancient Mayan city of Coba, above; a happier present-day villager; and a towering pyramid

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M A P I L LU T R AT I O N S BY S T E V E S TA N K I E W I C Z

THOSE THREE PERFECT DAYS DAY ONE (1) Rosewood Mayakoba Carretera Cancun, Km 298; Tel: 52-984-875-8000 (2) Kumkum & Mezcal Room Avenida 5 at Calle 28 (3) 100% Natural Avenida 5 near Calle 10; Tel: 52-984873-2242 (4) Yaxche Calle 8 between Avenidas 5 and 10; Tel: 52-984-873-2502 (5) Zenzi Beach Bar Calle 10 at the beach; Tel: 52-984876-2191 (6) Coco Bongo Calle 12 at Avenida 10; Tel: 52-984-803-3232 (7) HC de Monterrey Constituyentes between Avenue 30 and 25; Tel: 52-984-803-0488

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DAY TWO (1) Punto Venado Hwy 307, Km 287 (2) Saffron Hwy 307, Km 298; Tel: 866-241-6588 (3) Akumal Dive Shop North Akumal Bay; Tel: 52-984-8759032 (4) Turtle Bay Bakery & Café Plaza Ukana 1, Loc. 15, Akumal; Tel: 52-949-226-8082 (5) Azulik Carretera Tulum Ruinas, Km 7; Tel: 888898-9922 (6) Maya Tulum Carretera Tulum-Punta Allen, Km 7; Tel: 888-515-4580

DAY THREE (1) Don Cafeto Av. Tulum No. 64, Lote 12; Tel: 800-5051713 (2) Coba 40 miles west of Tulum (3) Nohoch Mul Coba (4) Nicte Ha Coba (5) Dos Ojos Cenote 10 miles north of Tulum (6) Maya Spa Carretera Tulum Ruinas Km. 5; Tel: 888-898-9922 (7) El Mariachi Avs. Tulum and Orion; Tel: 52-984-106-2032

BOARDING PASS

Crystal blue seas, beautiful beaches, the wonders of Tulum and Chichen-Itza—really, need we say more? When you fly United to the Mayan Riviera, start and end your trip in comfort and convenience with a Premier Travel package.

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FREEDOM ROCK From left, exploring the Tulum ruins; seaside dream catcher; and Dos Ojos Cenote

homemade chips with spicy salsa, chicken quesadillas and the local specialty (not for the tender of tummy): lizard soup. Fired with chopped chilies and bolstered by clumps of chaya, it tastes sort of like...chicken.

There’s no better way to work off such a repast than a swim in bracingly refreshing water.

The entire Yucatán is a honeycomb of underground rivers and caverns called cenotes. None is as profound as the legendary Dos Ojos Cenote (5). You hire one of the local Mayan guides, Miguel, who equips you with snorkel, mask and flippers, and leads you into the chilly, crystal-clear water. As the occasional diver passes below, you navigate the stalactites of the cavern ceiling. If not for Miguel’s expert guidance, you’d easily get lost in the miles of “halls.” For an hour, you’re on another planet.

Back in Tulum, you walk from your palapa to the Maya Spa (6), where you partake in an ancient ablution known as a temazcal with a Mayan shaman named Rafael. He burns aromatic copal resin in a chalice, asks for the protection of the gods and then leads you into a darkened stone sauna, where you chant unintelligible Mayan phrases and swat yourself with bundles of herbs. Couldn’t hurt, right?

For dinner, you opt for the open-air café El Mariachi (7) in the pueblo. Choose a table that allows you to watch the lively town stroll past. The local mutt, Juanito, will brush up against your leg, but the pile of grilled fresh surf and turf—shrimp, squid, locally raised beef and añejo-marinated pork—and the assortment of chili salsas are too good to offer a stray. As the server brings you the check for this princely meal (about $25), you secretly hope the crowds don’t come rushing back for a little while longer. Like the meal, it is almost too good to share.

FIND INNER PEACE // Tulum is crazy about yoga // The quick trip from Chicago or Washington, D.C. and the mystical vibe together draw yankee yogis to Tulum like bees to organic miel. Three top yoga resorts: Maya Tulum is one of the toniest, with exquisitely built thatched-roof cabañas and state-of-the-art studios and spa treatments. Meals are top-end vegetarian, and breathlessly praised Ashtanga classes have recently attracted guests such as Heather Graham and Anne Hathaway.

Cabanas Copal Hotel is a much more “rustic” setting, with a bar and restaurant, homey staff and a spa. Enjoy all-day classes in the “jungle yoga palapa.”

Amansala is a newly rehabbed and more fitness-oriented resort, with strength classes and “Bikini Bootcamp” to go along with the yoga.

P H O T O G R A P H O F YO GA BY S H U T T E R S T O C K

Hemispheres executive editor MIKE GUY continues to chant unintelligible Mayan phrases while sitting at his desk.

RAFAEL NOH EHOC, 19, PEDICABBIE // “After biking around these Coba ruins all day, I like to go into the village to a place called Ki’ Ja Nal and have cocinitas there, or whatever the kitchen is cooking. Every day the food is different, but the woman who owns it is a very good cook. I like the stewed chicken. It’s simple.”

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H EM I SP H ERES PR OM OTION

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with your family, to start new traditions for the children in your life, as well as to teach them old ones. It’s a time for giving and forgiving, for laughter and memory-

For 2009, the National Retail Federation estimates that the U.S. will see $437 billion spent on holiday purchases during November and December. electronic items including e-readers and headphones, to higher-end items such as jewelry and furs, we’ll show you all the ways it’s better to give than to receive.

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We hope you enjoy your seasonal travels, and that this guide takes a little bit of stress out of your holidays.

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HEM_1209_Gift Guide 110-112.indd 1

13/11/2009 16:45

No.27480 Eyebobs.indd 1

13/11/2009 16:52

H EM I SP H ERES PR OM OTION

Wine Country

By David Bernad // Founder and President of the Miami International Wine Fair and Vinamericas

America’s fascination with wine has turned a

former beer-and-bourbon audience into the largest wine market in the world.

With more than 300 million cases sold in 2008, the potential for growth remains expansive. Very few markets offer the unbelievable selection one finds in nearly every major metropolitan area in the United States. In a country that has always been eager to try new things —new varietals, new styles—importers and distributors take the risk of seeking out boutique wineries abroad, or of representing wines from regions largely unknown.

This drive toward innovation and discovery pushes winemakers to consider developing their business in America.

According to the Wine Institute, the U.S. consumed one percent more wine in 2009 than in previous years, though

p113 Wine writeup.indd 1

there is a clear variation in purchasing patterns. In this economy, home dining and entertaining are on the rise and what better way to welcome family and friends than with a bottle of wine? Gone however, are the days of spending exorbitant sums on bottles, as with increased consumption, statistics also show that enthusiasts are buying at lower price points. The industry has answered this trend accordingly and has allowed “mom and pop” labels and smaller winemakers to shine in the advent of quality for value.

In the midst of wine’s outstanding performance in the luxury consumer sector, Spain continues to lead the pack in terms of growth in exports from Europe, while Argentina is exploding in popularity thanks to America’s love affair with Malbec. Consumption of

California wines has also increased with respect to imports due to the Euro’s strength, which has made European imports more expensive.

When it comes to specific grape varietals, Chardonnay is the premier choice, but crisper, greener wines such as Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Albarino and Gruner Veltliner are slowly emerging. Cabernet and Merlot are still the top reds; however, the aforementioned Malbec as well as Pinot Grigio are growing at unprecedented rates.

As with any other industry, trends come and go in the wine sector. What’s in today may be out tomorrow Nevertheless, America has proven that its passion for wine is here to stay, embracing the fine vineyards that its country has to offer, as well as the many varieties available worldwide.

12/11/2009 10:32

WINE SEASON X X X C F D L F S G B S N T D P N

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Looking for the perfect gift for someone who’s been very nice?

We have beautiful wooden gift boxes ďŹ lled with delectable Oregon treats like Smoked Salmon, Pinot Noir ďŹ lled Bon Bons, Tillamook Cheese, and of course, Henry Estate’s award winning wines.

There’s still time!

Visit our website or call today!

Henry Estate Winery 1-800-782-2686 www.henryestate.com Ask about Corporate Discounts!

HEM_1209_Wine Season 114-115.indd 1

12/11/2009 18:23

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DECEMBER 2009

115

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HEM_1209_Wine Season 114-115.indd 2

12/11/2009 21:17

DECEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

mileage plus

RED CARPET CLUB

ECONOMY PLUS

New cards offer travelers greater choice and exclusive benefits.

CHOOSE THE CARD THAT’S RIGHT FOR YOU: MILEAGE PLUS® CLUB VISA® Red Carpet Club® annual membership 30,000 bonus miles Up to 10,000 EQM* per year Double miles on United® purchases

MILEAGE PLUS ACCESS VISA Economy Plus® annual seating 20,000 bonus miles Up to 10,000 EQM* per year One mile per dollar spent $100 United discount travel certificate

MILEAGE PLUS SELECT VISA 30,000 bonus miles Triple miles on United purchases Double miles on everyday purchases $100 United discount travel certificate

MILEAGE PLUS VISA SIGNATURE 30,000 bonus miles One mile per dollar spent $25 United discount travel certificate

SAVVY TRAVELERS KNOW that frequent flyer programs offer the best return on your mileage. If you desire added comfort when you travel or easy ways to take your miles further faster, the new Mileage Plus Visa family of credit cards has unique features and benefits for every traveler.

Today more than ever, customers expect greater value for their loyalty. Mileage Plus Visa cards offer more flexibility, true choice and exclusive benefits to fit your needs.

Choose from valuable card benefits such as: Red Carpet Club membership – escape the airport crowds and enjoy complimentary Wi-Fi, snacks, beverages and personal travel assistance.

Economy Plus seating – stretch out and relax or work in comfort with up to five extra inches of legroom near the front of the economy cabin.

Double or triple miles – earned on every dollar spent on every qualifying purchase.

Elite Qualifying Miles (EQM) – ascend the elite ranks sooner by earning EQM with every qualifying purchase.

Exclusive Visa Signature benefits – travel like a V.I.P. with access to personal travel agents, concierge services and more.

You can purchase with confidence, knowing your card is backed by the financial security of Chase and the dedication to customer loyalty of Mileage Plus.

For more information and to take advantage of a special introductory bonus mile offer, visit united.com/cardfamily.

* Elite Qualifying Miles

House Ads_Dec09.indd 3

Accounts subject to credit approval. Restrictions and limitations apply. Annual credit card fee applies. United® Mileage Plus® Visa® credit cards are issued by Chase Bank USA, N.A. See united.com/cardfamily for pricing and rewards details.

Miles accrued, awards issued and bonus offers are subject to the rules of the United Mileage Plus program. United, its subsidiaries, affiliates and agents are not responsible for any products and services of other participating companies and partners. Please allow six to eight weeks after completed qualifying activity for bonus miles to be posted to your Mileage Plus account. The Mileage Plus program, including accruals, awards and bonus mile offers, is subject to change without notice. Taxes and fees related to award travel are the responsibility of the passenger. United and Mileage Plus are registered service marks. For complete details about the Mileage Plus program, visit united.com.

09/11/2009 11:33

DECEMBER 2009

PLAY ENTERTAINMENT

INFORMATION

118 Films & Television

128 United Destinations

125 Audio Programming 132 Terminal Diagrams 140 Crossword

137 Alliances & Partnerships

142 Sudoku & Quiz

138 Customs & Immigration 147 Beverages & Food

Four Christmases is one of many holiday ďŹ lms that show why perfect is no fun.

HEM_1209_Play_Coverv2.indd 1

09/11/2009 09:48

FILM & TELEVISION FILMS ARE SHOWN ONLY on flights of three hours or longer. Movies available on most 747, 757, 767, 777, A319 and A320 aircraft flights.

Schedules and selections are subject to change. International Language Tracks / (S) Películas están disponsibles en Español en todas las rutas domesticas en el canal 10.

WESTBOUND

EASTBOUND FILM

TELEVISION

FILM

TELEVISION

DECEMBER 1-15

NORTH AMERICA

DECEMBER 1-15

The Big Bang Theory [T] DECEMBER 1-15

Shaq Vs.

Four Christmases

Time Warp

It Might Get Loud

DECEMBER 16-31

DECEMBER 16-31

DECEMBER 16-31

30 Rock [T]

Elf

500 Days of Summer

The Office [T] Alter Eco

DECEMBER 1-15

Flight of the Conchords [T] DECEMBER 16-31 Man V. Food Nature’s Great Events

South Pacific

The Simpsons [T]

Samantha Brown’s Great Weekends

FILM

HAWAII

TELEVISION

FILM

TELEVISION

DECEMBER 1-15

DECEMBER 1-15

DECEMBER 1-15

DECEMBER 1-15

500 Days of Summer

The Big Bang Theory [T]

Elf

DECEMBER 16-31

Shaq Vs.

DECEMBER 16-31

The Office [T] Alter Eco

Four Christmases

Time Warp

It Might Get Loud

Both films available on flights

DECEMBER 16-31

Both films available on flights

30 Rock [T]

between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii

between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii

South Pacific

Flight of the Conchords [T] DECEMBER 16-31 Man V. Food Nature’s Great Events The Simpsons [T]

Samantha Brown’s Great Weekends

FILM

SOUTHBOUND

TELEVISION

FILM

NORTHBOUND

TELEVISION

DECEMBER 1-15

MEXICO & CARIBBEAN

The Big Bang Theory [T] Chuck [T] DECEMBER 1-15 It Might Get Loud

Time Warp

TELEVISION The Office [T]

DECEMBER 1-15 Four Christmases

DECEMBER 16-31

DECEMBER 16-31

DECEMBER 16-31

Elf

Flight of the Conchords [T]

500 Days of Summer

Grey’s Anatomy [T] Frasier [T] Jockeys [T]

DECEMBER 1-15 Two and a Half Men [T] House [T] Real Estate Pros 30 Rock [T] DECEMBER 16-31 Samantha Brown’s Great Weekends Ugly Betty [T] Man V. Food Arrested Development [T]

THE "FUN" IN DYSFUNCTIONAL RECENT HOLIDAY MOVIES have taught viewers that less-than-perfect families are ideal fodder for making us laugh and easing our own seasonal anxieties.

Going home for the holidays evokes warm feelings of joyous reunion, family harmony, piles of gifts stacked under a perfectly groomed tree, carolers at the door and tables heaped high with comfort food. In real life, only the food is guaranteed. As Hollywood would have it, nightmare in-laws, sparring matches, bizarre relatives and leftover childhood trauma are also on the menu.

It turns out that’s how we like it. We enjoy seeing precious holiday traditions dissolve into pandemonium onscreen; it validates our holiday nightmares and offers hope that maybe, just maybe, our own holiday homecomings won’t be quite so stressful. At the very least, it casts our own families in a slightly more normal, mundane light.

Have fun this month, and enjoy the catharsis that comes from watching Elf and Four Christmases!

HEM_1209_Film-TV-2.indd 1

09/11/2009 10:27

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DECEMBER 2009

MOST FILMS HAVE BEEN EDITED FOR AIRLINE USE. However, customer discretion is still advised.

Content guidelines are provided as a courtesy to our customers in choosing whether to view a film.

CUSTOMERS ARE WELCOME TO VIEW their own video entertainment aboard a United aircraft as long as they are able to show the programming has an MPAA rating of “R” or less.

FOUR CHRISTMASES 1 hr.

26 min.

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese

IT MIGHT GET LOUD

119

[V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

1 hr.

38 min.

When Kate and Brad find themselves grounded by fog on Christmas morning, their exotic vacation plans morph into the family-centric holiday they had, until now, gleefully avoided. Out of obligation—and unable to escape—they trudge to four relative-choked festivities, increasingly mortified to find childhood fears raised, adolescent wounds reopened…and their very future together uncertain.

FEATURING Vince Vaughn, Reese Witherspoon, Jon Favreau DIRECTED BY Seth Gordon

It Might Get Loud tells the personal stories of three generations of electric guitar virtuosos—The Edge (U2), Jimmy Page (Led Zeppelin) and Jack White (The White Stripes). Concentrating on each artist’s musical rebellion, and traveling with him to influential locations, this film lets you witness intimate moments and hear new music. The movie revolves around a day when Jimmy Page, Jack White and The Edge first sat down together.

FEATURING The Edge, Jimmy Page, Jack White DIRECTED BY Davis Guggenheim

500 DAYS OF SUMMER

ELF

1 hr.

33 min.

“This is a story of boy meets girl,” begins the wry, probing narrator of 500 Days of Summer. The boy, Tom believes in the notion of a transforming, cosmically destined kind of love. The girl, Summer, doesn’t. But that doesn’t stop Tom from going after her. Suddenly, he is not just in love with her but with the very idea of a love that has the power to shock the heart and stop the world.

FEATURING Zooey Deschanel, Joseph Gordon-Levitt, Geoffrey Arend DIRECTED BY Marc Webb

HEM_1209_Film-TV-2.indd 2

1 hr.

37 min.

After accidentally falling into Santa Claus’ gift sack, a human baby is raised at the North Pole, growing up to believe he is an elf. Due to his large size, the “elf” causes chaos in Santa’s workshop, forcing Kris Kringle to send him on a mission to find his human roots. When he lands in a New York City department store, chaos ensues, but holiday cheer prevails.

FEATURING Will Ferrell, James Caan, Bob Newhart DIRECTED BY Jon Favreau

09/11/2009 10:27

FILM & TELEVISION Digital media loading occurs between the 25th and 5th of each month. As a result, please understand if your flight features a different line up before and after the start of each month.

TELEVISION DESCRIPTIONS The views contained in the video content are not necessarily those of United.

ALTER ECO

NATURE’S GREAT EVENTS

“School House Rock ’N Review”

“The Great Melt”

Entourage star Adrian Grenier, shows his greener side: He and three buddies help those who want to lead sustainable lifestyles do so with style. Wait until you see what he and Jonny Dubowsky of Rock ’N Renew do with the rain garden at Crossroads Middle School

The BBC is at it again, showing viewers how the world works in the wild. As winter passes in the Arctic, the four million square miles of ice that cover it start to melt. While the polar bears are sad to see the icy terrain disappear, a new abundance of birds and small critters equals jackpot for the arctic fox.

FLIGHT OF THE CONCHORDS

SOUTH PACIFIC

“Love Is a Weapon of Choice”

“Castaways”

New Zealanders Jemaine Clement and Brett McKenzie spoof themselves, sharing the tale of a two-man band trying to make it in the Big Apple. When the pair both fall for a woman whose missing dog has epilepsy, it leads to a duel, a canine benefit and a couple of new tunes.

Isolated in the world’s largest ocean, the cultures, flora and fauna of remote Pacific islands are unlike anything you’ve seen. Get an exclusive look at the Goldie bird of paradise. Also pretty cool? Members of the Sepik river tribe hold an initiation cermony in which they make themselves look like saltwater crocodiles.

GET IN TOUCH

YOUR COMPLETE GUIDE TO MOVIES, TV SHOWS, MUSIC AND PREMIUM SEAT COMFORT ABOARD UNITED

DECEMBER 2009

IF YOUR AIRCRAFT IS EQUIPPED with in-seat video, refer to the separate Play guide located in your seat pocket.

PLAY Four Christmases is one of many holiday films that show why perfect is no fun.

Like to plan ahead and know what’s playing before your flight? Text “MOVIE” to 75309 and you’ll get a reply with the current movies that are playing. If you really like to plan ahead, text “NEXT MOVIE” for next month’s movies.

What do you think of our programming? We’re open to suggestions. Please send to play@united.com.

Play_1209_p01_Coverv2 2.indd 1

HEM_1209_Film-TV-2.indd 3

03/11/2009 16:23

09/11/2009 16:03

Inspired by the art of Picasso, Mother-of-Pearl with Spiny Oyster Inlay Pendant in Sterling Silver and 18K Gold $259 Matching Earrings available $359 Sterling Silver Chain included

OAHU: Ala Moana Center t Waikiki Beachwalk t Hilton Hawaiian Village MAUI: Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center t Lahaina Cannery t The Shops at Wailea t Whalers Village Front Street (2 locations) t Hyatt Regency Maui t Grand Wailea Resort KAUAI: Poipu Shopping Village t Grand Hyatt Kauai BIG ISLAND OF HAWAII: Kona Marketplace t Kings’ Shops t Hilton Waikoloa Village NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINES: Pride of America BOSTON: Natick Collection t Northshore Mall CHICAGO: Oakbrook Center t Woodfield Mall DALLAS: NorthPark Center DENVER: Cherry Creek Shopping Center LOS ANGELES: Glendale Galleria t Northridge Fashion Center NEW YORK: Roosevelt Field ORLANDO: The Mall at Millenia PHILADELPHIA: The Plaza at King of Prussia PLEASANTON: Stoneridge Mall PORTLAND: Washington Square SAN DIEGO: Fashion Valley t Horton Plaza SAN FRANCISCO: Pier 39 SAN JOSE: Valley Fair SEATTLE: Bellevue Square WASHINGTON, D.C.: Tysons Corner Center

XXX /B)PLV DPN t

No.25336 NaHoku.indd 1

02/11/2009 12:26

FILM & TELEVISION B747 MAINSCREEN PROGRAMMING INTERNATIONAL LANGUAGE TRACKS (G) Die Aufflistungder Sprachen für ausgewählte Spielfilme finden Sie für die 747-400 Maschinen auf Kanal 2 für alle weiteren Maschinen auf Kanal 10. (J) トラック言語本の長編映画をチャンネル2と747-400航空機上の他の飛行機内でのチャネル10で選択されています (C) 在747-400型飞机上这些故事片的音频位于第 10频道. 在其他型号的飞机上位于第2频道

If your aircraft is equipped with in-seat video, refer to the separate Play guide located in your seat pocket.

WESTBOUND

EASTBOUND FILM

TELEVISION

It Might Get Loud (G)

GERMANY

FILM

TELEVISION

Four Christmases (G)

Elf (G)

NCIS [T][V] (G)

500 Days of Summer (G)

The Mentalist [T][V] (G)

Julie & Julia [T] (G)

House [T] (G) The Big Bang Theory [T]

Up (G)

Grey’s Anatomy [T]

*The Time Traveler’s Wife [T] (G)

30 Rock [T]

*Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince [V] (G)

*West Coast only

*West Coast only

TELEVISION

FILM

TELEVISION

Four Christmases (G)

It Might Get Loud

AUSTRALIA

FILM

Elf (G)

Eli Stone [T]

500 Days of Summer (G)

Julie & Julia [T] (G)

My Music Brain

Up (G)

Time Warp

Harry Potter

The Office [T]

The Time Traveler’s Wife [T] (G)

The Big Bang Theory [T]

The Mentalist [T][V]

Click

and the Half-Blood Prince [V] (G)

TELEVISION

FILM

It Might Get Loud (J)(C) Elf (J)(C)

JAPAN

Grey’s Anatomy [T]

FILM

TELEVISION

Four Christmases (J)(C)

BBC WORLD

500 Days of Summer (J)(C)

HARDtalk (J)

Julie & Julia [T] (J)(C)

Frasier [T] (J)

Up (J)(C)

Click (J)

*Harry Potter and the

Royal Pains [T]

*The Time Traveler’s Wife [T] (J)(C)

Peschardt’s People (J)

*East Coast/ORD only

HARDtalk (J)

FILM

TELEVISION

Half-Blood Prince [V] (J)(C) *East Coast/ORD only

TELEVISION

FILM

Four Christmases (J)(C)

DISCOVERY

Grey’s Anatomy [T] (C)

500 Days of Summer (J)(C)

Treasure Quest (C)

Julie & Julia [T] (J)(C)

Royal Pains [T] (C)

Up (J)(C)

Discovery Atlas (C)

Harry Potter and the

Frasier [T] (C)

The Time Traveler’s Wife [T] (J)(C)

Time Warp (C)

Wall-E (J)(C)

HARDtalk (J) / Peschardt’s People (J)

It Might Get Loud (J)(C)

CHINA & HONG KONG

Elf (J)(C)

Half-Blood Prince [V] (J)(C)

SINGAPORE– HONG KONG VIETNAM– HONG KONG

Grey’s Anatomy [T] (C) Monsters vs. Aliens (J)(C)

Royal Pains [T] (C)

BBC WORLD

Frasier [T] (C)

Click (J) / HARDtalk (J) Hong Kong to Ho Chi Minh City

Ho Chi Minh City to Hong Kong Grey’s Anatomy [T] (C)

BBC WORLD

Royal Pains [T} (C) / Frasier [T] (C)

HARDtalk (J) / Peschardt’s People (J) / Click (J) / HARDtalk (J)

FILM

TELEVISION

FILM

TELEVISION

BBC WORLD

JAPAN– THAILAND

HEM_1209_Film-TV-2.indd 5

Monsters vs. Aliens (J)(C) Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince [V] (J)(C)

Grey’s Anatomy [T] (C)

HARDtalk (J) Peschardt’s People (J)

Wall-E (J)(C)

Royal Pains [T] (C)

Click (J)

The Time Traveler’s Wife [T] (J)(C)

Frasier [T] (C)

HARDtalk (J)

09/11/2009 10:28

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DECEMBER 2009

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese

MONSTERS VS. ALIENS

1 hr.

34 min.

WALL-E

1 hr.

38 min.

123

[V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

HARRY POTTER AND THE HALF-BLOOD PRINCE [V]

2 hr.

21 min.

When Susan Murphy is clobbered by a meteor, she mysteriously grows to 49 feet, 11 inches tall and is labeled a “monster” named Ginormica. She is captured and held in a secret government compound with a motley crew of monsters. Their confinement time is cut short, however, when an alien robot begins storming the country. The monsters must save the world.

VOICES BY Reese Witherspoon, Hugh Laurie, Will Arnett DIRECTED BY Rob Letterman, Conrad Vernon

It’s the year 2700, and a trash-collecting robot, WALL•E, is one of earth’s few remaining inhabitants.

When a rocket drops off a new robot, EVE, WALL•E is excited about having a friend. He shares his collection with her, and one of his discoveries prompts EVE to return to space with WALL•E in pursuit. The robots arrive at a massive spaceship and learn that WALL•E’s find may hold the key to humankind’s future.

VOICES BY Ben Burtt, Elissa Knight DIRECTED BY Andrew Stanton

As Harry Potter begins his sixth year at Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry, he discovers an old book marked mysteriously “This book is the property of the Half-Blood Prince” and begins to learn more about Lord Voldemort’s dark past.

FEATURING Daniel Radcliffe, Rupert Grint, Emma Watson DIRECTED BY David Yates

JULIE & JULIA [T]

UP

THE TIME TRAVELER’S WIFE [T]

2 hr.

This adaptation of two memoirs—Julie Powell’s Julie & Julia and My Life in France by Julia Child with Alex Prud’homme—intertwines the lives of two women at loose ends...until they discover that with passion, fearlessness and butter, anything is possible.

FEATURING Meryl Streep, Amy Adams, Stanley Tucci DIRECTED BY Nora Ephron

1 hr.

36 min.

In this charming animated Pixar adventure, 78-year-old Carl Fredricksen ties thousands of balloons to his home and sets out to fulfill his lifelong dream of seeing the wilds of South America. Right after lifting off, however, he learns he isn`t alone on his journey: Russell, a young wilderness explorer 70 years his junior, has inadvertently become a stowaway on the trip.

VOICES BY Edward Asner, Christopher Plummer DIRECTED BY Pete Docter, Bob Peterson

1 hr.

41 min.

Clare has been in love with Henry her entire life even though she never knows when they will be separated: Henry is a time traveler cursed with a genetic anomaly that causes him to live his life on a shifting timeline, skipping back and forth with no control. Despite the fact that Henry’s travels force them apart with no warning, Clare desperately tries to build a life with her one true love.

FEATURING Rachel McAdams, Eric Bana, Arliss Howard DIRECTED BY Robert Schwentke

ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT/PERSONAL DEVICES United Airlines strives to make its customer experience safe and comfortable and accordingly has issued the following in regard to the use of electronic equipment/personal devices onboard its aircraft. However, the following is not a contract and does not create any legal rights or obligations. Certain electronic devices may not be used on our planes for safety reasons. Such devices may cause electromagnetic interference with cockpit navigation or communications systems during ground operations and while the aircraft is flying below 10,000 feet. However, when an aircraft is traveling above 10,000 feet (normally about 10 minutes after takeoff), passengers can use many of the devices listed. Hearing aids, heart pacemakers and watches are acceptable at all times.

These electronic devices can be used in the cabin, but may not be used during takeoff and landing: Calculators; handheld computer games; shavers; portable CD and tape players; laptop computers/ accessory printers/tape drives; portable VCRs/video players These electronic devices cannot be used on the airplane at any time: Cellular phones (cellular phones maybe used on the plane at the gate before the aircraft door is closed or at captain’s discretion when the plane is away from the gate and on the ground); televisions; AM/FM transmitters-receivers; remote-controlled toys In addition, United Airlines has an onboard photography and video policy. Customers who bring personal audio and video equipment onboard may only use these items with headsets. Noise-canceling headsets may be activated. The use of still and video cameras, film or digital, including any cellular or other devices that have this capability, is permitted only for recording of personal events. However, photography, audio or video recording of other customers without their express prior consent is strictly prohibited. Also, unauthorized photography, audio or video recording of airline personnel, aircraft equipmen, or procedures is always prohibited. Any voice, audio, video or other photography (motion or still), recording or transmission while on any United Airlines aircraft is strictly prohibited, except to the extent specifically permitted by United Airlines. UAL Corporation October, 2009

HEM_1209_Film-TV-2.indd 6

09/11/2009 10:28

House Ads_Dec09.indd 1

09/11/2009 11:33

AUDIO PROGRAMMING

125

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2009

XM RADIO AND UNITED offer a sampling of XM’s exclusive music channels for your inflight enjoyment. Find your aircraft model on the grid below and review the selections on the channel listing.

Everything worth listening to is now on XM.

CH.

777 2-CABIN

A319 & A320

SELECT A320

747

757 & 767 2-CABIN

1

MOVIE

MOVIE

MOVIE

MOVIE

MOVIE

English

English

English

English

English

Top 20 Hits

Top 20 Hits

Top 20 Hits

Modern Adult Hits

Modern Adult Hits

2

737

Unavailable

MOVIE

3

Dubbed

Top 20 Hits

Top 20 Hits

MOVIE

4

Classical Pops

Classical Pops

Modern Adult Hits

Dubbed

Modern Adult Hits

Classical Pops

’60s Hits

Classical Pops

Modern Adult Hits

Classical Pops

5 ’60s Hits

6

’60s Hits

8 9

’70s Hits

’60s Hits

’70s Hits

Modern Adult Hits

’70s Hits

’60s Hits

Unavailable ’70s Hits

7

’60s Hits

’70s Hits

Unavailable Adult Contemporary Hits

Adult Contemporary Hits

Adult Contemporary Hits

Adult Contemporary Hits

Adult Contemporary Hits

Children’s Programming

Children’s Programming

From the Flight Deck

From the Flight Deck

Unavailable Children’s Programming

Children’s Programming

From the Flight Deck

10

From the Flight Deck

From the Flight Deck

MOVIE

MOVIE

Dubbed

Dubbed

New Age

New Country Hits

From the Flight Deck

Smooth Jazz

Smooth Jazz

New Age

11 New Country Hits

12 13 14

New Country Hits

’80s Hits

Children’s Programming

Adult Album Rock

’70s Hits

Smooth Jazz

Smooth Jazz

New Country Hits

’80s Hits

Adult Album Rock

Smooth Jazz

Children’s Programming

Classical Pops

Top 20 Hits

Smooth Jazz

15 Classic Rock

16

Adult Contemporary Hits

Classic Rock

New Alternative

17 Classic Soul

18 19

Blues

Original XM Programs

HEM_1209_AudioProgramming.indd 2

*Live communication between the flight deck and FAA air-traffic control is offered. As you listen, your flight will be identified by its flight number. This feature is unique to United and may not be available on all flights.

Available at your captain’s discretion.

SIRIUS XM’s Exclusive Music Channel presents interviews and performances from the original music series “Artist Confidential.” Hear Grammywinner Reba McEntire perform songs from her latest album, Keep on Loving You. Then Rock and Roll Hall of Fame inductees Lynyrd Skynyrd play “Sweet Home Alabama.” For more, go to sirius.com or xmradio.com.

09/11/2009 10:24

AUDIO PROGRAMMING CHANNELS & ARTISTS

SMOOTH JAZZ Watercolors plays the best contemporary jazz instrumentals, classic and new, blended with just the right vocals.

It’s contemporary crossover that’s always cool.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Dave Koz, Diana Krall, George Benson, Sade, George Duke

BLUES From the Delta, Chicago, New Orleans and more, B.B. King’s Bluesville covers more than 80 years of authentic blues.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR B.B. King, Buddy Guy, Etta James, Muddy Waters

ADULT ALBUM ROCK New music and classic tracks from artists who’ve stood the test of time, plus quality rock from credible new artists.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR U2, Dave Matthews Band, Neil Young, Coldplay

NEW ALTERNATIVE The latest alternative rock, best of the ’90s and the next big thing before it becomes so big you can’t stand it.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Weezer, The Raconteurs, The Bravery, Foo Fighters, Death Cab for Cutie, Jimmy Eat World

SIRIUS XM’s Exclusive Music Channel presents two revealing interviews and performances from original music series “Artist Confidential.” The Bangles treat you to hits “Manic Monday” and “Hazy Shade of Winter.” Singersongwriter Kenny Loggins performs “I’m Alright” and “This Is It.” For more on SIRIUS XM’s “Artist Confidential,” go to sirius.com or xmradio.com.

CLASSIC SOUL Soul Town is a celebration of the Motown, Stax and Atlantic record labels—vintage soul and classic R&B from the 1960s and ’70s.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR James Brown, The Four Tops, Aretha Franklin, The Supremes

NEW COUNTRY HITS The Highway plays the very latest New Country, along with the biggest hits of the past few years.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Kenny Chesney, Taylor Swift, Carrie Underwood, Keith Urban, Rascal Flatts, Sugarland, Tim McGraw

NEW AGE Spa is a place of peace in a sometimes crazy world. It’s a beautiful place where you are soothed by dreamy, flowing music.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Enya, Brian Eno, Tangerine Dream, Kevin Braheny, Mark Isham, Suzanne Ciani

MODERN ADULT HITS It’s the ’90s and now! Hear today’s pop hits from artists like Matchbox 20, Alanis Morissette, Maroon 5, Kelly Clarkson and the Dave Matthews Band. Feel the Pulse of adult pop!

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Daughtry, No Doubt, Colbie Caillat, Plain White T’s

CLASSICAL POPS Listen to classical music’s greatest hits and famous movie music, performed by renowned orchestras and soloists, on SIRIUS XM Pops.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Boston Pops, Cincinnati Pops, Andrea Bocelli, James Galway, Joshua Bell, John Philip Sousa

’70S HITS ’70s on 7 takes you back to the days of bell bottoms and pet rocks, when the music was wider than ever—from singer-songwriters and classic rock to R&B and disco.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Elton John, Donna Summer, The Eagles, Chicago, Fleetwood Mac

’80S HITS “Totally awesome” ’80s on 8 sounds like one of the great Top 40 stations of the time, with rock, rhythm and pop—plus hair bands and the original MTV VJs. WHO YOU’LL HEAR Michael Jackson, Duran Duran, Cyndi Lauper, Prince, George Michael

HEM_1209_AudioProgramming.indd 3

CLASSIC ROCK Hold your lighters in the air. It’s all classic rock of the ’60s and ’70s, when music came on LPs. Drop the needle on Classic Vinyl.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Creedence Clearwater Revival, The Beatles, Pink Floyd, Lynyrd Skynyrd, Bad Company, Rolling Stones

CHILDREN’S PROGRAMMING Kids Place Live features award-winning original content blended with a music mix of the most popular kids’ movie and TV soundtracks, plus Children’s Programming’s recording artists.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR The Wiggles, Tom Chapin, Dan Zanes, They Might Be Giants

09/11/2009 10:24

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DECEMBER 2009

127

XM RADIO AND UNITED offer a sampling of XM’s exclusive music channels for your inflight enjoyment. Find your aircraft model on page 125 and review the selections on the channel listing. Everything worth listening to is now on XM.

TOP 20 HITS Top 20 on 20 is the world’s first fully interactive hit music experience, playing just the songs you vote for.

Cast your vote anytime at 20on20.xmradio.com; then plug in and hear what’s hot.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Black Eyed Peas, Fall Out Boy, Lady Gaga, Katy Perry, Kanye West

’60S HITS The times they were a-changin’, and so was the music. ’60s on 6 revisits surfin’ tunes, “girl groups,” the British invasion, Woodstock. Featuring legendary DJ Cousin Brucie.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR The Beatles, Beach Boys, Bob Dylan

HEM_1209_AudioProgramming.indd 4

ADULT CONTEMPORARY HITS The Blend is the musical soundtrack of your life—a great mix of Lite pop hits from the ’70s through today; never any rap or rock.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Rod Stewart, Billy Joel, Madonna, Eric Clapton, John Mellencamp

09/11/2009 10:25

ROUTE MAPS NORTH AMERICAN CITIES Time zone boundary UNITED HUB

• Cities served by United, United Express and Code Share partners Cities served by Star Alliance members

United Route United Express Route Code Share route serviced by a United Partner

Route lines do not reflect actual flight path

BRITISH COLUMBIA

Alaska Time Zone 3:00

Edmonton

Vancouver Victoria

Pacific Time Zone 4:00

SASKATCHEWAN

Mountain Time Zone 5:00

Seattle

ALASKA

MANITOBA

ALBERTA

Saskatoon

Central Time Zone 6:00

Calgary

Moses Lake

WASHINGTON

Anchorage

Spokane

Regina

Kalispell

Winnipeg Portland

Pasco

Missoula

Eugene

Gulf Of Alaska

Great Falls Helena

North Bend

Redmond OREGON

Medford Crescent City Eureka

IDAHO

Bozeman

Billings

Cody/ Yellowstone Idaho Falls

Miles City

Dickinson Bismarck Fargo

Minneapolis

Pierre Huron

Riverton Casper Chadron Rock Springs W Y O M I N G

NEVADA

Reno/Tahoe

Duluth

SOUTH Gillette Rapid City D A K O T A

UNITED STATES

Chico

MINNESOTA

NORTH DAKOTA

Sheridan

Worland Jackson Hole

Redding

Sacramento

Williston Wolf Point Sidney

Lewistown M O N T A N A

Boise

Klamath Falls

PACIFIC OCEAN

Glasgow

Sioux Falls IOWA

Scottsbluff Salt Lake City Alliance Laramie Vernal Hayden/ C NEBRASKA Cheyenne Omaha Steamboat UTAH North Platte Des C O L O R A D O Springs Grand Moines Kearney Junction Vail/Eagle Burling CALIFORNIA DENVER Lincoln Moab Aspen McCook Inyokern Colorado Springs San Luis Obispo Montrose Gunnison/ Bakersfield Crested Hays Salina Manhattan Las Vegas Telluride Butte Santa Maria Page/ Cortez Pueblo Durango K A N S A S Kansas City Lake Powell Santa Barbara Burbank Alamosa Garden City Farmington Oxnard Great Bend LOS ANGELES Ontario Dodge City Orange County Wichita ARIZONA Springfield Liberal Carlsbad Prescott Palm Springs

SAN FRANCISCO

Oakland Modesto San Jose Merced Fresno Visalia Monterey

San Diego

Imperial

Show Low Phoenix/Scottsdale

Tulsa

Albuquerque

Northwest Arkansas

Oklahoma City

Yuma Tucson

El Paso Midland/ Odessa

Dallas/ Fort Worth TEXAS

L

Austin San Antonio

Honolulu

Los Cabos Kapalua

Pacific Ocean

0 0

HEM_1209_RouteMaps.indd 1

50 50

100

100 150

Kahului

Houston

MEXICO

Maui

Kona

Hilo Puerto Vallarta

150 Miles

A

OKLAHOMA

NEW MEXICO

Mexico City

200 Kilometers

09/11/2009 10:07

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DECEMBER 2009

129

Newfoundland Time Zone 8:30

A

NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR

Gulf Of St. Lawrence

CANADA

Eastern Time Zone 7:00

P R I N C E E DW ARD ISLAND NEW BRUNSWICK

ONTARIO

Atlantic Time Zone 8:00

NESOTA NOVA SCOTIA

MAINE

Duluth Ottawa WISCONSIN

Burlington

Wausau Green Bay

Minneapolis

Toronto

MICHIGAN

VT.

Portland

N.H.

NEW YORK

Traverse City

Halifax

Manchester

Syracuse Ithaca/ Albany Boston Midland/ Rochester Elmira/ Corning Saginaw Corning Hartford/M A S S .

Buffalo/ R.I. Springfield A London Niagara Binghamton Falls Lansing C O N N . Providence Madison Wilkes Barre/ White Detroit Erie South Long Island/Islip Scranton Cedar Plains Bend/Elkhart/ PENNSYLVANIA New York (La Guardia) Rapids/ Newark Cleveland Mishawaka State (J.F. Kennedy) Des Allentown N.J. Iowa City Akron/Canton College oines OHIO Philadelphia Ft. Burlington Moline Peoria Pittsburgh Wayne Columbus Johnstown HarrisburgBaltimore Altoona ILLINOIS INDIANA DEL. Morgantown MARYLAND Dayton Clarksburg WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES) Springfield Indianapolis Parkersburg (Reagan National) Cincinnati WV Shenandoah y Valley St. Louis Charlottesville Charleston Louisville Richmond Beckley Lynchburg Lexington Norfolk/Virginia Beach Waynesville KENTUCKY Roanoke V I R G I N I A pringfield Newport News/Williamsburg Tri-Cities Regional Greensboro/High Point/Winston-Salem MISSOURI Raleigh/Durham NORTH KnoxvilleC A R O L I N A Nashville orthwest Greenville New Bern Charlotte rkansas Asheville Fayetteville/Ft. Bragg TENNESSEE Appleton/ Fox Cities

Grand Milwaukee Rapids

ARKANSAS

Little Rock

Memphis Huntsville/ Decatur

Charleston

Augusta

Birmingham

Hilton Head Island

ALABAMA

GEORGIA

Savannah

MISSISSIPPI LOUISIANA

Pensacola

Hamilton

BERMUDA

Jacksonville Greenville/Spartanburg Wilmington Columbia Myrtle Beach SOUTH Atlanta CAROLINA

Tallahassee

ATLANTIC OCEAN

Jacksonville Gainesville

New Orleans

FLORIDA

Orlando Tampa/St. Petersburg Sarasota/Bradenton

West Palm Beach Freeport Ft. Lauderdale/Hollywood

Ft. Myers

Gulf Of Mexico

Miami

Nassau

BAHAMAS

Key West Providenciales

CUBA

100

0 0

100

St. Maarten St. Thomas Antigua San Juan Punta Cana St. Kitts PUERTO

HAITI

Grand Cayman

Cozumel

200

200 300

300 400

500

400 Miles 600 Kilometers

VIRGIN ISLANDS (U.S.)

Montego Bay

JAM.

Caribbean Sea

DOM. REP.

RICO

Santo Domingo St. Lucia

BELIZE

HEM_1209_RouteMaps.indd 2

09/11/2009 10:07

ROUTE MAPS INTERNATIONAL CITIES

8:00 pm

7:00 pm

Time zone boundary

• Cities served by United, United Express and Code Share partners

United Route Code Share route serviced by a United Partner Code Share route serviced by a United Partner

Route lines do not reflect actual flight path

9:00 pm 10:00 pm

12:00 SUN.

12:00 MON.

11:00 pm

1:00 am

2:00 am

ARCTIC OCEAN

3:00 am

5:00 am

4:00 am

6:00 a

MIDNIGHT ALASKA (U.S.)

RUSSIA

8:00 pm CANAD

2:00 0 pm

Seattle MONGOLIA

Harbin Shenyang

8:00 pm CHINA

Beijing Baotou

Delhi

5:30

San Francisco

Sendai DalianSeoul Fukuoka Komatsu Qingdao Tokyo Shanghai Pusan Nagoya Osaka Nanjing Hiroshima Chengdu Wuhan 6:00 Chongqing Hangzhou Fuzhou BHUTAN Xiamen BANGLADESH Taipei Okinawa Guangzhou TAIWAN BURMA Hanoi Kolkata LAOS Hong Kong 9:00 pm Shenzhen South THAILAND 5:30

Bangkok

VIETNAM

CAMBODIA

Phuket

China Sea

Dallas

D

O

N

E

S

I

Honolulu GUATE

Guatemala Ci San Salva

EL SALVA

Managu

PACIFIC OCEAN

A PAPUA NEW GUINEA

INDIAN OCEAN

Coral Sea

Apia

WESTERN SAMOA

Cairns

FIJI

Nadi

RAROTONGA

Rarotonga Cook

FRENCH POLYNESIA

NEW CALEDONIA

AUSTRALIA

1:00

Brisbane 9:30 pm

Perth

Gold Coast Sydney

Adelaide

Canberra

Tasman Sea

Melbourne

Auckland Rotorua NEW ZEALAND

Queenstown

Wellington Christchurch Dunedin

World time zones shown in Standard Time.

:00 pm

6:00 pm

7:00 pm

8:00 pm

9:00 pm

10:00 pm

11:00 pm

12:00 MIDNIGHT

1:00 am

2:00 am

3:00 am

4:00 am

5:00 am

International Date Line

MON. SUN.

ANTARCTICA

HEM_1209_RouteMaps.indd 3

Ho Gul Mex

BRUNEI

Kuala Lumpur Singapore N

W

Denver

MEXICO

Saipan

PHILIPPINES

Chi

Los Angeles

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) MALAYSIA Kota Kinabalu

I

Phi U.S.A.

Sapporo JAPAN

NORTH KOREA SOUTH KOREA

International Date Line

N

Portland

09/11/2009 10:08

131

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DECEMBER 2009

12:00 pm

6:00 am

7:00 am

8:00 am

9:00 am

11:00 am

10:00 am

1:00 pm

12:00 pm

3:00 pm

2:00 pm

ARCTIC OCEAN GREENLAND

SWEDEN

ICELAND

FINLAND

2:00 pm

Hudson Bay

NORWAY

10:00 am 9:30

Dublin Shannon

CANADA

A.

Chicago

Geneva

Detroit

Porto Lisbon

ICO

EL SALVADOR

CUBA PUERTO HAITI RICO JAM. DOM. REP.

SURINAME VENEZUELA GUYANA COLOMBIA FRENCH GUIANA

ATLANTIC OCEAN

ECUADOR

Manaus

Fortaleza

BRAZIL

PERU

CAMEROON

EQUATORIAL GUINEA SAO TOME & PRINCIPE

Cuzco

Brasilia

BOLIVIA

ARGENTINA

10:00 am

Belo Horizonte Rio de Janeiro

PARAGUA

Y Iguassu Falls

TURKEY

CYPRUS LEBANON ISRAEL

DEM. REP. CONGO

CONGO

ARMENIA AZER.

ANGOLA

11:00 am

12:00 NOON

1:00 pm

BA

SRI LANKA

KENYA

MALDIVES SEYCHELLES

TANZANIA

MALAWI

INDIAN OCEAN

3:00 pm

4:00 pm

5:00 pm

6

MOZAMBIQUE ZIMBABWE MADAGASCAR

Johannesburg

Curitiba Porto Alegre

SOUTH AFRICA

SWAZILAND

Durban

LESOTHO

East London Port Elizabeth

NORWAY

Bergen

SCOTLAND

LATVIA

Copenhagen

10:00 am

Bremen NETH.

London

LUX.

FRANCE

Porto SPAIN

Hamburg Berlin

POLAND

Vilnius BELARUS

Hannover GERMANY

BELGIUM

Brussels Cologne Paris

LITHUANIA RUSSIA

Amsterdam

ENGLAND

SOUTHERN OCEAN

Riga

DENMARK

Edinburgh

Birmingham

RUSSIA

ESTONIA

Aberdeen

Dublin WALES

PORTUGAL

Helsinki

Stockholm

Glasgow

Shannon Cork

FINLAND

Oslo SWEDEN

Stavanger

NORTHERN IRELAND UNITED Belfast KINGDOM IRELAND Manchester

9:00 am

5:00

UGANDA

Atlantic Ocean

8:00 am

4:30

3:30

JORDAN

BOTSWANA

Buenos Aires

7:00 am

Islamabad AFGHAN. Peshawar

IRAN

COMOROS ZAMBIA

NAMIBIA

Cape Town

6:00 am

KYRGYZSTAN TAJIKISTAN

BURUNDI

URUGUAY

00 am

5:00

SYRIA

Tel AvivIRAQ Amman

Alma-Ata

UZBEKISTAN

TURKMENISTAN

RWANDA

2:00 pm

Salvador CHILE

GABON

Recife

Lima

Tbilisi

GEORGIA

Lahore Kuwait PAKISTAN Delhi NEPAL LIBYA Bahrain QATARDubai EGYPT Karachi WESTERN SAHARA Riyadh Doha 2:00 pm INDIA U. A. E. Jeddah 5:30 Abu Dhabi Muscat OMAN SAUDI ARABIA MAURITANIA Mumbai Sal MALI NIGER 4:00 pm Hyderabad CAPE VERDE ERITREA CHAD YEMEN ISLANDS 1:00 pm Arabian Sea Bangalore SUDAN Asmara Dakar SENEGAL GAMBIA BURKINA FASO DJIBOUTI GUINEA Cochin GUINEA BENIN NIGERIA BISSAU Trivandrum TOGO Abuja Addis Ababa SIERRA GHANA CENTRAL AFRICAN ETHIOPIA Chennai (Madras) Lagos LEONE REPUBLIC LIBERIA Accra Colombo SOMALIA

THE BAHAMAS

PANAMA

Black Sea

Cairo

ALGERIA

Belize City San Pedro Sula Tegucigalpa NIC. Aruba COSTA RICA

Managua Liberia

ranean Se a

CANARY ISLANDS

Mexico

GUATEMALA

Med iter

TUNISIA

MOROCCO

6:00 pm KAZAKHSTAN

Istanbul

Madrid

12:00

4:00

MOLDOVA

ROMANIA BOS.HER. SERB .

MONT. KOS. BULGARIA MAC. GREECE ALB.

Rome

PORTUGAL

Charlotte Atlanta Houston Orlando Gulf of Miami

Guatemala City San Salvador

SPAIN

5:00 pm

Moscow

UKRAINE

SWITZ.

FRANCE

Washington, DC Dallas

London Frankfurt Munich Paris Vienna AUSTRIA

Boston

4:00

LAT.

Copenhagen Brussels LITH. BELARUS AmsterdamPOLAND GERMANY Warsaw

Sea an spi Ca

New York Philadelphia 9:00 am 10:00 Newark

RUSSIA

Stockholm

UNITED KINGDOM

Leipzig Dresden Prague Frankfurt CZECH

Warsaw

Kiev

Katowice

UKRAINE Nuremberg REPUBLIC SLOVAKIA Stuttgart Munich Salzburg Basel Linz Vienna MOLDOVA AUSTRIA Budapest Graz HUNGARY Innsbruck SWITZ. Klagenfurt Lyon Geneva VeronaSLOVENIA VeniceCROATIA Bucharest TriesteBOS. ROMANIA Turin Milan Bologna HERZ. Belgrade Genoa Florence Sarajevo SERBIA BULGARIA Marseille Nice Pisa Ancona MONT. KOS. Sofia Skopje Rome ALBANIA MAC. Naples ITALY Istanbul GREECE

Lisbon

Ankara Izmir

MALTA

Luga

Mediterranean Sea

TURKEY

Antalya Adan

ANTARCTICA

HEM_1209_RouteMaps.indd 4

09/11/2009 10:08

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS DOMESTIC Whether your next flight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 132–136 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation.

MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT.

CONTACT INFORMATION

Reservations united.com 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Automated Flight Information

Meetings Plus

Customer Relations united.com/customerrelations Email: customerrelations@ united.com

800-MEET-UAL (800-633-8825)

Duty Free World 6095 NW 167th St. Suite D-4 Miami, FL 33015 USA

800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Mileage Plus 24-Hour Account Information & Award Travel united.com/mileageplus 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Red Carpet Club™ united.com/redcarpetclub 866-UA-CLUBS (toll-free) 520-881-0500 (outside the U.S.)

United Vacations unitedvacations.com 800-32-TOURS (800-328-6877)

Hearing Impaired (TDD) Charter an Airplane united.com/charter

800-323-0170

Mileage Plus Visa Customer Service united.com/chase 800-537-7783

united.com/baggage 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Refunds united.com/refunds 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Small Package Same Day Shipping Small Package Dispatch (SPD)— Airport-to-airport service:

800-426-5560

800-426-5561

800-722-5243

United Cargo unitedcargo.com

Employment Opportunities united.com/jobs

800-UA-CARGO (800-822-2746)

888-UAL-JOBS (888-825-5627)

United Services unitedsvcs.com

CHICAGO / O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

United Gate Area United Premier Check-in United Check-in United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite International Arrivals Suite (except from Canada) United Red Carpet Club Lufthansa Check-in SAS Check-in Air Canada Gate Area Air Canada Check-in ANA Check-in bmi Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Check-in Asiana Check-in Underground Corridors, Moving Sidewalks Elevated Airport Transit Systems (ATS) ★ United Easy Check-in Medical Center ★ Airport Play Area—Kids on the Fly

CONCOURSE F

CONCOURSE E F14

F11 H F12 F10 F9 F8 F7 F6 F5

CONCOURSE G

E10

F4 F3 H

E2 E1A

TERMINAL F2 F1 TWO

CONCOURSE H

E3

E2A CONCOURSE B

E1

B2

H

Roadway

CONCOURSE C C2 C4 C1 C6 C3 C8 C5 C10 C7 C12 C9 C16 C11 C15 C18 C17 H C18A

B4 B5 B6 B7 H B8

C19

BUS/SHUTTLE CENTER

TH AL TER MIN

Parking Garage LOT A

CONCOURSE L

C20 C22 C24 C26 C23 C28 C25 C30 C27 C32 C29 C31

C21

HOTEL

CONCOURSE K

TERMINAL ONE B9 B10 B11 B12 B14 H B15 B16 B17 B18 B19 B20 B21 B22

International Terminal Five CONCO URSE M Roadw ay

HOTEL

➡

HEM_1209_TerminalDiagrams.indd 1

B3

B1

RE E

ORD

1. Rebook on another flight 2. Obtain a boarding pass 3. Standby for the next flight to their destination

Language Assistance (Asian)

Reservaciones en Español Baggage Services

EasyCheck-in kiosks are located on the concourse to assist customers who have experienced a misconnection or canceled flight. Customers who have e-tickets and are traveling domestically may use the kiosk to:

800-668-6182

To Remote Parking

Hotel Courtesy Shuttle, Pace Bus, Regional Buses, Off-Site Rent-a-Car, Off-Site Parking Shuttle. Follow the overhead signs in Baggage Claim.

09/11/2009 10:04

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DECEMBER 2009

133

TRAVEL ASSISTANCE FOR DELAYED OR CANCELED FLIGHTS will provide you with a hotel and meal voucher. For uncontrollable events—such as weather—we may be able to help you locate a local hotel at a discounted rate; however United does not cover hotel or meal expenses in this event. If we can not retrieve your checked bag, overnight kits containing toiletries are available. Please see an agent.

What if the reason for my travel no longer exists? If as a result of the delay or cancelation you decide not to travel, call United reservations (1-800 UNITED-1) to get information on your options.

Help us help you keep informed. Sign up for EasyUpdate®, our messaging service. If your flight is canceled or delayed, EasyUpdate® will inform you. Enroll at united.com/easyupdate. At home? Go to united. com for information or to check-in and print your boarding pass.

At United Airlines, our priority is safety and keeping an on-time schedule. On occasion, canceling or delaying a flight is the only option to assure we maintain the highest safety standards.

Flight canceled? We automatically confirm you on the next United flight with available seats. EasyCheck-in® units located in the concourse will assist you with information and a boarding pass—it will also help you standby for an earlier United flight if one is scheduled. If you want to travel standby and aren’t boarded, we will transfer your name to the next United flight to your destination until you are onboard.

What about my bag? Baggage is boarded on the next flight if space is available. This means your bags may arrive before you. United will secure the bag until you claim it. See a baggage claim representative.

What if I have to stay overnight? If a flight is canceled to address a mechanical issue or another similar reason within our control, we IAD

Your safety and satisfaction are important. We appreciate your business and apologize for any inconvenience you may have experienced.

WASHINGTON / DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

International Arrivals United Gate Area Facility for Connecting Passengers United Premier Check-in (Lower Level) United Check-in CONCOURSE C International Arrivals Suite (except from Canada) C2 C4 C6 C8 C12 C14 United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge C1 C3 C5 C7 C9 C11 Lufthansa Gate Area A4 A2 A6 Lufthansa Check-in H Air Canada Gate Area Air Canada Check-in A5 A1 A3 ANA Check-in CONCOURSE A ANA Fuji Lounge/Gate Area Austrian Airlines Check-in Austrian Airlines Gate Area South African Airways SAS Gate Area US Airways Gates Terminal BWIA Gate ★ United Easy Check-in Upper Level Shuttle Train US Airways Check-in

LAX

C Connector Tunnel

C16

C28 C18 C20 C22 C24 C26

C17 C19 C23

HEM_1209_TerminalDiagrams.indd 2

C27

D1

CONCOURSE D D8 D10 D14 D16

★

D3

A14/16

D18 D20 D30

D5 D7

D15 D23

D11

A32 CONCOURSE B

CONCOURSE A

B37 B39 B41 B45 B47

Pedestrian Walkway

B79

Z GATES International Arrivals Building

TERMINAL

Transportation to International Arrivals Building for Washington Passengers Only

Parking

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Premier Check-in United Check-in United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge Lufthansa Check-in Thai Airways Check-in Air Canada Check-in Air New Zealand Check-in ANA Check-in Inter-Terminal Shuttle Bus Stop (Arrival Level) Singapore Check-in US Airways Club US Airways Check-in US Airways Gates Asiana Check-in ★ United Easy Check-in

D6

D4

D2

H

TERMINAL 1 12 TERMINAL 3

8

TERMINAL 2

US Airways Ticket Counter (Upper Level)

US Airways Club 4B

TOM BRADLEY INTERNATIONAL TERMINAL

Roadway

Mezzanine Level

71A 71B

★

70A 70B

73

66

72 75A 75B

69B TERMINAL 4

TERMINAL 5

68B

TERMINAL 6

77

74 76

TERMINAL 7

80 81 ★ 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 TERMINAL 8

09/11/2009 10:04

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS DOMESTIC & OVERSEAS Whether your next flight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 132–136 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation.

MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT.

DEN

DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Premier Check-in United Check-in International Arrival Processing Air Canada Gate Area Air Canada Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Check-in Lufthansa Check-in Lufthansa Gate Area Underground Train Medical Center (level six) ★ United EasyCheck-in

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

29 28 30 CONCOURSE C 57 59 15

17 19 21 23 25

16

18 20 22 24

27 29 31 33

35

39

36

38 40 42 44

★

★ 26

28 30 32

34

51

53 55 57

50

52

54 56 58 60

63 67 69 71 73 75 77 79

61

★ 46 48

81 83 85 87 89 91 93 95 94 80 82 84 86 88 90 92

33 35 CONCOURSE A

Terminal East

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

78B TERMINAL 3 CONCOURSE F 88

86

84 82

79

80

78A 77B 77A 76B 76A

90

International Terminal Secure Connector

61

71

89 87A 87 85 83 81 72 73 74 75

68 70 69

7

CONCOURSE G (Gates G91-G1 02)

CONCOURSE B B26

TERMINAL 1

B27 B28 B30 B29

CONCOURSE A (Gates 1-12)

HONOLULU INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

HEM_1209_TerminalDiagrams.indd 3

49

CONCOURSE B

SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Check-in United Red Carpet Club (Third Level) Air New Zealand (Courtyard, Lower Level) ANA (Courtyard, Lower Level) Air Canada Gate Area US Airways Check-in Pedestrian Corridor Inter-Terminal Shuttle Bus Stop Medical Center (Courtyard, Lower Level)

45 47

41 43

United Arrivals and Departures (Domestic) United Premier Check-in United Domestic Check-in United International Check-in & Departure Gates United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite (lower level) Singapore Check-in Lufthansa Check-in Air China Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Check-in Asiana Airlines Air New Zealand Medical Center Air Canada Gate Area ★ United EasyCheck-in Air Canada Check-in ℞ Harmony Pharmacy & Health Center is in the Terminal 3, Concourse F hub

HNL

41

★

Terminal West

SFO

43

37

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

DIAMOND HEAD CONCOURSE GATES 6-11 8 7 6 9

★

DIAMOND HEAD

CENTRAL CONCOURSE GATES 14-23 EWA CONCOURSE GATES 26-34

10 11 GATES 12-13

GATES 24-25 GATES 49-54 Roadway

Parking Garage

INTERISLAND TERMINAL GATES 55-66

09/11/2009 10:04

135

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DECEMBER 2009

LONDON / HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Check-in United Premier Check-in Arrivals Lounge Lufthansa Check-in SAS Check-in bmi Check-in Star Alliance Departure Lounge Flight Connections

86 84

90 88

82

80

38 36 34 32 40 24 30 42 28 35 26 31

BUS TRANSFER To/From Terminals 3, 4 & 5

78

76

74 1

22 21

9

7

5

3

TERMINAL 1 8 29

6 11

29

TERMINAL 5

LHR

23 27 20

19

17

25

27

21

19

25 16

23

18 43

50

11 13

TERMINAL 3

3

9

36

5 7

2

48

8 10 15

12

TERMINAL 2 (Closing Early 2009)

14

TERMINAL 4

FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

TERMINAL 1

B332-B340 A5 1A6 5)

Escalator

B300-B303

A1 -A 42 )

3

B1, B2

C5

B11-B16

C8 B3-B9

Pedestrian Transfer Tunnel

A, LE VE L

2

(G at es

A, LE VE L

B10

C

B20

C6

B41 PIER B

PI ER

PI ER

C4

ER

(G at es

C1-C3

PI

United Gate Area United Check-in United Arrivals Suite United First International Lounge Lufthansa Check-in Lufthansa Senator Club Lufthansa Business Class Lounge Air Canada Check-in Train Station US Airways Gates US Airways Check-in Medical Center

C7-C9

B43

B22 B30-B35

B44

B24

Train to Terminal 2

B42

B23

B45

B25 B48

B28

B46

B26

B47

B27

NRT

46

6 13

7 5 3 1

40 42

38

52

9

4 11

BUS TRANSFER To/From Terminals 1, 2, 3 & 5

FRA

54

39

17 16

56

41

37

18

TOKYO / NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 43

42

41

37

35

33

31

Gates 21-25 SATELLITE 2

44 45 46

47 SATELLITE 4

38

Gates 31-47

32

SATELLITE 3 l ne un rT sfe an Tr ian str de Pe

United Gate Area United and Star Alliance Premier Check-in United and Star Alliance Check-in Air New Zealand (Terminal 2) United Red Carpet Club (Third Floor) United First International Lounge (Fourth Floor) Medical Center ANA Lounge

North Wing

South Wing

Gates 11-

TERMINAL 1 52 51

Gates 51-58

SATELLITE 1 55 56

SATELLITE

57 58

HEM_1209_TerminalDiagrams.indd 4

09/11/2009 10:04

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS US AIRWAYS HUBS Whether your next flight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 132–136 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation.

MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT.

CLT

CHARLOTTE DOUGLAS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Express Gate Area US Airways Check-in US Airways Club US Airways Club and Business Center Special Services Counter ★ United EasyCheck-in

LAS

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

CONCOURSE C

CONCOURSE B Gates 1-16

Gates 2-19

CONCOURSE A 2 4

CONCOURSE D CONCOURSE E

★

Food Court

Gates 1-9

Gates 10-19

Gates 1-13

Gates 20-26

LAS VEGAS / MCCARRAN INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Check-in US Airways Club Special Services Counter

Gates B19-B25

Gates D31-D43

Gates B9-B17

CONCOURSE B

Gates D1-D14

CONCOURSE D

B6 B2 CONCOURSE A B1 A3 A5 A8

Gates D50-D58

Gates A10-A15

A7

Gates D17-D26 Gates A17-A23

PHL

PHILADELPHIA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

Gates 24-39

United Gate Area United Check-in United Red Carpet Club US Airways Gate Area US Airways Express Gate Area US Airways Check-in US Airways International Check-in US Airways Club Special Services Counters US Airways Express Check-in US Airways Club and Envoy Lounge ★ United EasyCheck-in

PHX

CONCOURSE F Continuous Shuttle Bus Pickup and Drop-off Between Gates F10 and C16

CONCOURSE E

Gates 18-26

CONCOURSE A WEST

1

1

17 16 15 14

Gates 1-16

Transatlantic Gates (All Carriers)

CONCOURSE A EAST

PHOENIX SKY HARBOR INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Check-in United Red Carpet Club US Airways Gate Area US Airways Club and Business Center Special Services Counters ★ United EasyCheck-in

Gates 1-23

3

Gates 16-31

CONCOURSE B

5 CONCOURSE D 7 9 11 13

★

CONCOURSE C

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

TERMINAL 2 TERMINAL 4

CONCOURSE A

Gates

★ 7

1 3 5

Gates A17-A30

CONCOURSE B

Gates A1-A14

INTERNATIONAL CONCOURSE B

Gates B1-B14

Gates B15-B28

To transfer between terminals, catch the interterminal bus curbside.

HEM_1209_TerminalDiagrams.indd 5

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DECEMBER 2009

137

ENJOY A WORLD OF STAR ALLIANCE CONNECTIONS AND PRIVILEGES. On December 9, Brussels Airlines joins Mileage Plus as the newest airline partner and a member of the Star Alliance.

Earn or redeem Mileage Plus miles when you fly on our newest partner. Brussels Airlines offers flights within Europe and from Brussels to the Middle East, Africa and Asia.

ALLIANCES AND PARTNERSHIPS STAR ALLIANCE PARTNERS

STAR ALLIANCE Established in 1997 as the first

truly global airline alliance to offer customers a worldwide travel network that aims to provide customers a seamless travel experience across multiple airlines. Today the Star Alliance network offers more than 18,900 daily flights to 983 destinations in 169 countries.

EARN MILEAGE PLUS® MILES AND ELITE STATUS FASTER

With the largest airline alliance, you can earn miles almost anywhere in the world you fly. The miles you earn on any Star Alliance flight can be credited to your Mileage Plus account. Plus the flight miles will count toward elite status in Mileage Plus.

EARN RECOGNITION AROUND THE WORLD The more miles you fly with United and the Star Alliance airlines, the higher your Mileage Plus elite status can be: Premier®, Premier Executive® or 1K®.

Mileage Plus elite status is recognized across the alliance as either Star Alliance Silver or Star Alliance Gold, with travel benefits worldwide. See united.com/staralliance for the Star Silver and Star Gold benefits you can receive.

AWARD TRAVEL IS NOW EASIER With Star Alliance

Awards, you can use your Mileage Plus miles for award travel on any Star Alliance carrier worldwide. Or use them for Star Alliance Upgrade Awards and upgrade to a premium cabin and travel in comfort (available on most Star Alliance airlines).

REGIONAL ALLIANCE PARTNERS

You can earn and redeem miles on many of our Regional Alliance Partners. See united.com/airlinepartners for specific information about each of our Regional Alliance Partners.

Aer Lingus Air Dolomiti Continental Connection Emirates Great Lakes Hawaiian Airlines

HEM_1209_TerminalDiagrams.indd 6

Island Air Jet Airways Qatar Airways TACA Group TAM Virgin Blue

09/11/2009 10:05

CUSTOMS & IMMIGRATION ENTRY REGULATIONS

I-94 ARRIVAL / DEPARTURE RECORD

CUSTOMS DECLARATION

ENGLISH All passengers (or one per family) are required to complete the Customs Declaration forms prior to arrival in the U.S. The forms will be distributed inflight and should include all personal data in English and in capital letters. Please ensure you sign your name.

SPANISH/ESPAÑOL Todos los pasajeros (o uno por cada familia) tienen que llenar los formularios de Declaración de Aduanas antes de llegar a los EE.UU. Los formularios se distribuirán durante el veulo y deben incluir todos sus datos personales en inglés y con letras mayúsculas. No olvide firmar en el reverso del formulario.

1. Apellido, Nombre, Segundo nombre 2. Fecha de nacimiento

(Día/Mes/Año) 3. Cuántos familiares viajan con usted 4. (a) Dirección en los EE.UU. (nombre del hotel/lugar) (b) Ciudad, (c) Estado 5. Pasaporte expedido en (páis) 6. Número del pasaporte 7. País de residencia 8. Países que visitó durante este viaje antes de su llegada a los EE.UU. 9. Línea aérea/número de vuelo o nombre del barco 10. El propósito principal de este viaje es de Sí / No negocios: 11. Traigo (Traemos) (a) frutas, plantas, alimentos, insectos: Sí / No (b) carnes, animales, productos de animales o silvestres: Sí / No (c) agentes de enfermedades, cultivos celulares, caracoles:Sí / No (d) tierra o he (hemos) estado en finca/ granja/pastizales: Sí / No 12. He (Hemos) estado en cercanías de ganado (tocando o manipulándolo): Sí / No 13. Llevo (Llevamos) divisas o instrumentos monetarios por valor superior a $10,000 o su equivalente en moneda extranjera (Véase la definición de instrumentos monetarios al dorso): Sí / No 14. Tengo (Tenemos) mercancías comerciales (artículos para la venta, muestras para solicitar pedidos o bienes que no constituyen efectos personales): Sí / No 15. Residentes—el valor total de todos los bienes, incluidas las mercancías comerciales que he (hemos) comprado en el extranjero, (incluyendo regalos para otras personas, pero sin incluir los artículos enviados por correo a los EE.UU.) y que estoy (estamos) introduciendo en los EE.UU. es de: $___ Visitantes—el valor total de todos los artículos que permanecerán en los EE.UU., incluidas las mercancías comerciales, es de: $___

HAZARDOUS MATERIALS NOTICE & IMPORT RESTRICTIONS HAZARDOUS MATERIALS The following items are considered hazardous materials. Do not pack in checked or carry-on luggage.

FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS OR SOLIDS Fuel, paints, solvents, lighter fluid, matches WEAPONS Loaded firearms, ammunition, gunpowder, Mace, tear gas, pepper spray HOUSEHOLD ITEMS Drain cleaners and solvents COMPRESSED GASES Spray can, butane fuel, oxygen bottles FIREWORKS Firecrackers, sparklers or explosives OTHER HAZARDOUS MATERIALS Dry ice, gasoline-powered tools, camping equipment with fuel, wet cell batteries, oxidizers, corrosives, radioactive materials,

HEM_1209_Customs&Immigration.indd 1

poisons, infectious substances NOTE There are special exceptions for small quantities of up to 70 oz. (2 kg or 2 liters) of medicinal and toilet articles carried in your luggage. For further information, check with any airline representative.

IMPORT RESTRICTIONS Please note new controls on the import of meat, fish, plants and their products into the United Kingdom and European Union. Check the advisory notices displayed in the baggage hall for a detailed explanation of these restrictions. If you possess any of these items, please declare them to customs in the red channel to avoid legal consequences.

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection

OMB No. 1651-0111

Welcome to the United States I-94 Arrival/Departure Record Instructions This form must be completed by all persons except U.S. Citizens, returning resident aliens, aliens with immigrant visas, and Canadian Citizens visiting or in transit.

Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. Use English. Do not write on the back of this form.

This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 17) and the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21).

When all items are completed, present this form to the CBP Officer.

Item 9 - If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space.

5 U.S.C. § 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code, including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and 8 CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The information solicited on this form may be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the United States and result in your removal.

CBP Form I-94 (05/08) OMB No. 1651-0111

Arrival Record Admission Number

000000000 00

1. Family Name 2. First (Given) Name

3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)

4. Country of Citizenship

5. Sex (Male or Female)

6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY)

7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY)

8. Passport Number

9. Airline and Flight Number

10. Country Where You Live

11. Country Where You Boarded

12. City Where Visa Was Issued

13. Date Issued (DD/MM/YY)

14. Address While in the United States (Number and Street) 15. City and State 16. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached 17. Email Address

CBP Form I-94 (05/08)

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection

OMB No. 1651-0111

Departure Record Admission Number

000000000 00

18. Family Name 19. First (Given) Name

20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)

21. Country of Citizenship

CBP Form I-94 (05/08) See Other Side

STAPLE HERE

ENGLISH Prior to arrival in the U.S., all foreign nationals (except Canadian citizens and U.S. permanent residents or nationals of countries entitled to the Visa Waiver Program—see I-94W on next page) are required to complete an I-94 form. One form is required for each family member.

Customers should complete all personal and travel-related information included on the front side of the form. Please do not write on

the back side of the form. All information should be written in capital letters and in English. You are required to keep this form until your departure from the U.S. SPANISH / ESPAÑOL Antes de su llegada a los Estados Unidos, todos los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto los ciudadanos de Canadá y los residentes permanentes en los Estados Unidos o ciudadanos de los países que tienen el Programa “Visa Waiver”—Ver formulario I-94W en hoja adjunta) tienen que llenar un formulario I-94. Hay que rellenar un formulario por cada miembro de la familia.

Los pasajeros llenarán toda la información personal y relativa al viaje que se incluye en el anverso del formulario. Le rogamos que no escriba en el reverso del formulario. Toda la información debe estar escrita con letras mayúsculas y en inglés. Le rogamos que guarde este formulario hasta que salga de los Estados Unidos.

1. Apellido 2. Nombre 3. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 4. País de ciudadanía 5. Sexo (masculino o femenino) 6. Fecha de emisión del pasaporte 7. Fecha de vencimiento del pasaporte 8. Número de pasaporte 9. Aerolínea y número de vuelo 10. País donde vives 11. País en el que abordaron 12. Ciudad donde obtuvo el visado 13. Fecha del visado (Día/Mes/Año) 14. Direccion donde se quedará en los EE.UU (Número, calle) 15. Ciudad y Estado 16. Teléfono de contacto en EE.UU. 17. Dirección de correo electrónico 18. Apellido 19. Nombre 20. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 21. Pais de ciudadanía

ELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR TRAVEL AUTHORIZATION ENGLISH

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL

Effective January 12, 2009, all passengers who intend to travel to the United States without a U.S. Visa under the terms of the Visa Waiver Program must obtain an electronic preauthorization or ESTA in advance of travel. When planning international travel, please be sure that you are in possession of all required documents. Remember to allow ample time for acquiring official travel documents. For complete information on the requirements, and to apply for ESTA, please visit www. cbp.gov/esta.

A partir del 12 de enero de 2009, todos los pasajeros que quieran viajar a los EE.UU. (entre los terminos del programa de no tener que usar la Visa) tendran que obtener una preautorización electronica o ESTA antes de viajar. Cuando estés coordinando viajes internacionales, este seguro que tenga todos los documentos requerídos. No se olvide de dejar tiempo suficiente para adquirir los documentos oficiales de viaje.

Para información completa sobre todos los requisitos, y para aplicar para ESTA, por favor visite www.cbp.gov/esta.

09/11/2009 10:09

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DECEMBER 2009

I-94 NONIMMIGRANT VISA WAIVER / BACK

I-94 NONIMMIGRANT VISA WAIVER / FRONT

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection

OMB No. 1651-0111

Welcome to the United States I-94W Nonimmigrant Visa Waiver Arrival/Departure Record Instructions This form must be completed by every nonimmigrant visitor not in possession of a visitor’s visa, who is a national of one of the countries enumerated in 8 CFR 217. The airline can provide you with the current list of eligible countries.

Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. USE ENGLISH This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 15) and the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21). The reverse side of this form must be signed and dated. Children under the age of fourteen must have their form signed by a parent or guardian.

Item 9 - If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space.

If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space.

5 U.S.C. § 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code, including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and 8 CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The information solicited on this form may be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the United States and result in your removal.

Admission Number

00000000000 Arrival Record VISA WAIVER 1. Family Name 2. First (Given) Name

3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)

4. Country of Citizenship 6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY) 8. Passport Number 10. Country Where You Live

5. Sex (Male or Female) 7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY) 9. Airline and Flight Number 11. City Where You Boarded

12. Address While in the United States (Number and Street) 13. City and State 14. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached 15. Email Address

Government Use Only 16.

17.

CBP Form I-94W (05/08) OMB No. 1651-0111

Admission Number

00000000000 Departure Record VISA WAIVER

18. Family Name 19. First (Given) Name

20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)

21. Country of Citizenship

CBP Form I-94W (05/08) See Other Side

STAPLE HERE

ENGLISH Prior to arrival in the United States, foreign nationals (except Canadian citizens and U.S. permanent residents) who are not in possession of a visitors visa and are entitled to the Visa Waiver Program are required to complete the I-94W form. One form is required for each family member.

Customers should complete all personal and travel-related information included on the front side of the card. Please ensure that you answer all questions and sign and date where indicated on the back side of this form. All customers must provide a U.S. address for entry.

Countries that are participants of the Visa Waiver Program are as follows: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, *Czech Republic, Denmark, *Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, *Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, *Latvia, Liechtenstein, *Lithuania,

139

Luxembourg, *Malta, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, *Slovakia, Slovenia, *South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, the United Kingdom. *Nationals of these countries must present an electronic (e-ppt) passport to be eligible for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program.

Nationals of all Visa Waiver countries must present a machine-readable passport for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program.

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL Antes de su llegada en los Estados Unidos, los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto ciudadanos Canadienses y residentes permanentes de los Estados Unidos) que no tengan un visado de visita y se acojan al programa “Visa Waiver”, tienen que completar el formulario I-94W. Se requiere un formulario por cado miembro de familia. Los pasajeros deberán rellenar toda información tanto personal como relacionada con viajes en el anverso de la tarjeta. Por favor, asegúrese de contestar todas las preguntas , firmen y pongan la fecha en el lugar indicado en el formulario.

Todos los pasajeros deben proporcionar una dirección en Estados Unidos para entrar al país.

Los países que participan del Programa de exención de visas son los siguientes: Alemania. Andorra, Australia, Austria, Bélgica, Brunei, *Corea del Sur, Dinamarca, *Eslovaquia, Eslovenia, Espána, *Estonia, Finlandia, Francia, *Hungría, Irlanda, Islandia, Italia, Japón, *Letonia, Liechtenstein, * Lituania, Luxemburgo, *Malta, Mónaco, Noruega, Nueva Zelandia, Países Bajos, Portugal,*República Checa, San Marino, Singapur, Suecia, Suiza y el Reino Unido. *Los ciudadanos de estos países deben presentar un electrónicos (e-ppt) pasaporte para ser elegible para del Programa de exención de visas de Estados Unidos.

Los ciudadanos de los demás países exentos de visas deben presentar un pasaporte de lectura electrónica en el marco del Programa de exención de visas de Estados Unidos a partir del 26 de octubre de 2004.

1. Apellido 2. Nombre 3. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año)

Do any of the following apply to you? (Answer Yes or No) A. Do you have a communicable disease; physical or mental disorder, or are you a drug abuser or addict?

Yes

No

B. Have you ever been arrested or convicted for an offense or crime involving moral turpitude or a violation related to a controlled substance; or been arrested or convicted for two or more offenses for which the aggregate sentence to confinement was five years or more; or been a controlled substance trafficker, or are you seeking entry to engage in criminal or immoral activities?

Yes

No

C. Have you ever been or are you now involved in espionage or sabotage; or in terrorist activities; or genocide; or between 1933 and 1945 were involved, in any way, in persecutions associated with Nazi Germany or its allies?

Yes

No

D. Are you seeking to work in the U.S.; or have ever been excluded and deported; or been previously removed from the United States; or procured or attempted to procure a visa or entry into the U.S. by fraud or misrepresentation?

Yes

No

E. Have you ever detained, retained or withheld custody of a child from a U.S. citizen granted custody of the child?

Yes

No

Yes

No

Yes

No

F.

Have you ever been denied a U.S. visa or entry into the U.S. or had a U.S. visa cancelled? If yes, when? ______________________ where? _________________________

G. Have you ever asserted immunity from prosecution?

IMPORTANT: If you answered “Yes” to any of the above, please contact the American Embassy BEFORE you travel to the U.S. since you may be refused admission into the United States.

Family Name (Please print)

First Name

Country of Citizenship

Date of Birth

WAIVER OF RIGHTS: I hereby waive any rights to review or appeal of a U.S. Customs and Border Protection officer’s determination as to my admissibility, or to contest, other than on the basis of an application for asylum, any action in deportation.

CERTIFICATION: I certify that I have read and understand all the questions and statements on this form. The answers I have furnished are true and correct to the best of my knowledge and belief.

Signature

Date

Paperwork Reduction Act Statement: An agency may not conduct or sponsor an information collection and a person is not required to respond to this information unless it displays a current valid OMB control number. The control number for this collection is 1651-0111. The estimated average time to complete this application is 8 minutes per respondent. If you have any comments regarding the burden estimate you can write to U.S. Customs and Border Protection, Asset Management, 1300 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW, Washington DC 20229

Departure Record Important – Retain this permit in your possession; you must surrender it when you leave the U.S. Failure to do so may delay your entry into the U.S. in the future.

You are authorized to stay in the U.S. only until the date written on this form. To remain past this date, without permission from Department of Homeland Security authorities, is a violation of the law.

Surrender this permit when you leave the U.S.: - By sea or air, to the transportation line; - Across the Canadian border, to a Canadian Official; - Across the Mexican border, to a U.S. Official.

Warning: You may not accept unauthorized employment; or attend school; or represent the foreign information media during your visit under this program. You are authorized to stay in the U.S. for 90 days or less. You may not apply for: 1) a change of nonimmigrant status; 2) adjustment of status to temporary or permanent resident, unless eligible under section 201(b) of the INA; or 3) an extension of stay. Violation of these terms will subject you to deportation. Any previous violation of this program, including having previously overstayed on this program without a proper DHS authorization, will result in a finding of inadmissibility as outlined in Section 217 of the Immigration and Nationality Act. Port: Date: Carrier: Flight No./Ship Name:

4. Nacionalidad 5. Sexo (varón/hembra) 6. Fecha de emisión del pasaporte 7. Fecha de vencimiento del pasaporte 8. Número de pasaporte 9. Aerolínea y número de vuelo 10. País de residencia 11. País en el que abordó 12. Direccion donde se quedará en los EE.UU (Número, calle) 13. Ciudad y Estado 14. Teléfono de contacto en EE.UU. 15. Dirección de correo electrónico SPANISH / ESPAÑOL ¿Le afecta alguna de estas restricciones a usted? (Conteste Si o No) A. ¿Padece usted de alguna enfermedad contagiosa, deficiencia física o mental, o es adicto a las drogas?

Sí / No B. ¿Ha sido usted arrestado o condenado

por alguna infracción o delito de depravación moral; o por una violación relacionada con estupefacientes; arrestado o condenado por dos o más infracciones cuya sentencia total de reclusión fuera igual o superior a cinco años; ha sido traficante de estupefacientes, o pretende entrar en los Estados Unidos para realizar actividades criminales o inmorales?

Sí / No C. ¿Ha estado o está implicado en actos de espionaje o sabotaje, actividades terroristas o genocidios; o participó de algún modo entre 1933 y 1945 en persecuciones relacionadas con la Alemania nazi o sus aliados?

Sí / No D. ¿Tiene intención de trabajar en los Estados Unidos; ha sido excluido o deportado; o ha sido expulsado de los Estados Unidos, o ha obtenido o intentado obtener un visado o la entrada a los Estados Unidos por medios fraudulentos o dando información falsa?

Sí / No E. ¿Ha detenido, retenido, o impedido la custodia de un niño que corresponda legalmente a un ciudadano de los Estados Unidos?

Sí / No F. ¿Se le ha cancelado o denegado alguna vez el visado o la entrada en los Estados Unidos? En caso afirmitavo, especifique?

Sí / No ¿Cúando? ¿Dónde?

G. ¿Ha hecho valer alguna vez su inmunidad frente a un procesamiento?

Sí / No IMPORTANTE: Si ha contestado afirmativamente alguna de las preguntas, comuníquese con la Embajada de los Estados Unidos ANTES de su viaje, ya que se le puede denegar la entrada en los Estados Unidos.

RENUNCIA DE DERECHOS: Por la presente renuncio el derecho a solicitar la revisión del Oficial de Inmigración acerca de mi admisión en los Estados Unidos, o a apelarla, o a impugnar cualquier acto de deportación que no sea por razón de una solicitud de asilo.

DECLARACIÓN: Declaro que he leído y entendido todas las preguntas y enunciados enumerados en esta solicitud, y que las respuestas que he propocionado en este formulario son verdaderas y correctas a mi mejor saber y entender.

STAYING FIT: INFLIGHT FLEXIBILITY Knee Flexion: Lift knee toward chest, decreasing the amount of joint space at back of the knee.

Repeat with other leg.

Dorsiflexion: With heel on floor, point toes upward, decreasing the angle between the foot and front of the leg.

Repeat with other foot.

Eversion: With foot on floor, gently roll the sole of the foot inward. Repeat with other foot.

Knee Extension: Straighten knee, increasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee to its full range. Repeat with other leg.

Plantar Flexion: Lift the heel and keep toes pointed toward the floor, increasing the angle between the top of the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

Inversion: With foot on floor, gently roll the sole of the foot outward. Repeat with other foot.

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140

DECEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

CROSSWORD LAND OF THE RISING SUN IF YOU FILL IN THE CROSSWORD PLEASE TAKE THE MAGAZINE WITH YOU SO IT’S REPLACED. // ANSWERS FOUND ON P. 66

97. Backtrack 100. Smooth fabric of silk or

rayon 104. Italian rice 107. Uninteresting 108. Big coffee holder 109. “It’s a breeze!”

110. Complain 112. Organic chemical

compound 115. Highly skilled 119. A high point 121. Engrave in wood 122. Free-for-all 123. Gumbo ingredient 124. Peter the Great, e.g.

125. Link 126. Rigatoni, e.g.

127. Show’s partner 128. Chapter in history 129. Ninny 130. Provoke

DOWN 1. Heavy reading?

2. Improves 3. Yankee’s import 4. Ad-lib 5. Outstanding 6. Carry on 7. Make secret 8. Attention-getter 9. Madly in love 10. Engine need 11. Implore 12. Keep in check 13. Heredity unit 14. Poetic homage 15. Make a scene?

16. Delicacy 18. Attuned 20. Spiritual leader 25. Midday 28. Wonderment 31. Spring 33. Watch word?

34. Couch 35. Still-life subject 36. Urban blight 37. Get-out-of-jail money 38. Refuse 40. Dried grape 41. Wandering 42. Previously known as Edo 45. Cousin of an ostrich 47. Computer woe 50. Designer’s concern 51. Like fans

ALL THEME CLUES ARE IN BOLD 53. Wine holder 54. National 56. Gnat like insect 57. Blip 60. An automated program

for doing a particular task 61. Apropos 64. Chocolate source 67. Doc 68. Annoy continually or

76. Charges 80. Spa handout 81. It’s pumped in a gym 82. Mermaid’s home 84. Not worth debating 85. Water vessel 86. Not fooled by 90. Watered down 92. Being of a specified

position in a numbered series 95. Three-pronged spear 98. Family member 99. Chin indentation 101. Black-and-white sea bird

chronically 69. Comeback 70. “All kidding ...”

73. A Nightmare on Street 74. Cry of approval

102. Plot of land 103. Having an inset

decorative pattern 105. Seafood entree 106. Cry of dismay 109. Type of engineer 110. Came alive 111. Pitch 112. Like some doors 113. Italian bread 114. Chocolate cookie 116. “So what is new?”

117. Favorite 118. A type of ceremony 119. A clever remark 120. Exploit

© P UZ P UZ P UZ Z L E S C R O S SWO R D BY G R E G B RU C E

ACROSS 1. Woolen cap 4. Fairy-tale villain 8. Long 11. Consequently 15. Bouquet 17. A hot dog 19. “Aquarius” musical 21. Must have 22. Haley’s 23. Property divider 24. Sweetbriar 26. Adolescents 27. Newly elected prime minister 29. Carried 30. Old gold coin 32. Morning moisture 33. Double-reed woodwind 34. A meeting of a council, court or legislative body to conduct its business 37. Moisten 39. Slender tower with balconies 43. Hooter 44. Creative spark 46. Map abbr.

48. Poi source 49. A type of society 52. Irritate 55. Fraternity letter 58. Aggravate 59. Fortified 60. High-speed transportation 62. Express in words 63. Chanel 65. French farewell 66. A type of effect 68. Proportionately 71. Jewel 72. Part 74. Clergyman 75. A sound recording of the music in a film 77. Detective’s need 78. Chapeau 79. Patriotism 83. Trinidadian dance that includes a horizontal pole 87. It may be easily bruised 88. Commodities 89. Harp 90. Mogul 91. New money 93. Freshly painted 94. Pledge 96. Bran source

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HEM_1209_Crossword.indd 1

11/11/2009 20:36

Holiday cheers.

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No.27469 Virginia Peanut Growers.indd 1

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DECEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

QUIZ SUDOKU

PRESENTS OF MIND

THE NUMBERS GAME // BY REIKO MCLAUGHLIN

SOMETIMES IT REALLY IS WHAT YOU KNOW // BY NOAH TARNOW

2.

A. The Grateful Dead and Adam and the Ants each employed two musicians playing what instrument?

B. A kilt and a T-shirt bearing the phrase “Hot Rod” formed the costume of what notorious pro wrestling villain of the 1980s?

C. In England, the Parliament Act of 1911 stripped most of the power from what legislative body?

D. What 1980s movie was set in the early ’60s at a Catskills resort called Kellerman’s?

E. During the 1996 presidential campaign, Bob Dole suggested that tobacco was no worse for you than what popular beverage?

F. FOUR-PART QUESTION: Figure out what type of waterfowl is being described.

1. Large, usually pure white and noted for its grace 2. Larger than a duck with a long neck and a feathered head, traditionally eaten for a holiday meal 3. A shorebird, stouter than a sandpiper and partially named for the yellow markings on its back 4. Long-winged with webbed feet, seen as a scavenger on shores; noted for its loud, plaintive call G. What popular dish is referred to in its native country as pain perdu, literally “lost bread”?

H. First appearing in a 1984 black-and-white comic book, Donatello, Raphael, Leonardo and Michelangelo were better know as what?

I. What musical TV comedy of the 1970s featured a stepmother and stepson playing actual mother and son?

BONUS: What well known song is the unifying theme of the answers to these questions?

2. SURELY YOU JEST Name the stand-up comics famous for the following witticisms.

ANSWERS

3.

ANSWERS: 1. A. DRUMS B. “ROWDY” RODDY PIPER C. HOUSE OF LORDS D. DIRTY DANCING E. MILK. F. 1. SWAN 2. GOOSE 3. GOLDEN PLOVER 4. GULL G. FRENCH TOAST H. TEENAGE MUTANT NINJA TURTLES I. THE PARTRIDGE FAMILY BONUS: “THE TWELVE DAYS OF CHRISTMAS.” 2. A. GEORGE CARLIN B. RODNEY DANGERFIELD C. JEFF FOXWORTHY D. BILL COSBY.

HARD

A. “There are four-hundred-thousand words in the English language, and there are seven you can’t say on television. What a ratio—they must be baaad words.”

B. “It’s not easy being me. I was gonna jump off my roof, so they called a priest to talk to me. He said, ‘On your mark…’”

C. “If you owe the taxidermist more than your annual income…. If someone asked to see your ID and you showed them your belt-buckle…”

D. “My four-year-old came down for breakfast and asked for chocolate cake. But then I looked at the ingredients. Eggs, milk, wheat—that’s nutrition!”

1.

HEM_1209_Puzzle.indd 1

2.

3.

M O R E I N F O O N Q U I Z AT B I G Q U I Z T H I N G .C O M . S U D O K U © P U Z P U Z P U Z Z L E S

EASY

1.

MODERATE

1. HAPPY HOLIDAYS There’s a common theme in the answers to each of these questions. The answer is in the bonus question.

09/11/2009 12:06

No.27471 Tutima.indd 1

12/11/2009 20:57

MARKETPLACE

HEM_1209_Marketplace 144-145.indd 1

12/11/2009 21:14

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | DECEMBER 2009

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145

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Canada Customers; www.weathertech.ca

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:WLJPHSPZ[Z PU 6YPNPUHS ,X\PWTLU[ HUK (M[LYTHYRL[ (\[VTV[P]L (JJLZZVYPLZ

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HEM_1209_Marketplace 144-145.indd 2

12/11/2009 17:52

DECEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

146

in transit

GETTING TO KNOW YOU

/ STACEY PENNINGTON 39 / Chef WHO

WHY I’M TRAVELING / I’m going home to Switzerland. I grew up in Chicago and just moved to Europe with my husband a few months ago, so I needed to pick up all of my stuff. My parents don’t actually know that I’m married. They would panic at the idea.

INFLIGHT RITUAL / I have to have a cocktail, and when I’m on the plane I need something cozy to wrap up in. My essentials are my sweater, scarf, eye mask and socks. People think I’m trying to be glamorous when I wear this dress, but it’s just like pajamas.

WHAT I’M INTO /

I’m on the hunt for the perfect salt right now. Everywhere I go, I pick up all kinds of sea salts and rock salts.

It’s really the key to a great meal.

BY ADAM K. RAYMOND

“People think I’m trying to be glamorous, but this dress is just like pajamas.”

PHOTOGRAPH BY SPENCER HEYFRON

HEM_1209_InTransit.indd 1

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UNITED ECONOMY - NORTH AMERICA

spinach salad

WELCOME ABOARD! We are pleased to offer Choice Menu meal and snack selections for purchase. Enjoy the service and thank you for flying with United.

SNACKBOXES AVAILABLE ALL DAY ON FLIGHTS OVER 2 HOURS

ACTIVE $ 5

Stoned Classics Tortilla Chips • Heinz Salsa • Blue Diamond Almonds • Think Fruit Chocolate Pomegranate Power Bar • Newman’s Own Organic Raisins • Hannah’s Honey Cured Turkey Stick

CLASSIC $ 6

LUXE $7

Kettle Backyard BBQ Chips • Oreo Cookies • Jelly Belly Gourmet Jelly Beans • Pepperidge Farm Goldfish Crackers • Sparrer Beef Salami • Gourmet Cheddar Cheese Spread • Pepperidge Farm Crackers

Rondelé Peppercorn Parmesan Cheese Spread • Pepperidge Farm Crackers • Food Should Taste Good Multigrain Tortilla Chips • Oloves Mediterranean or Vinaigrette Olives • Wild Garden Hummus Dip • Real Torino Sesame Breadsticks • Asher’s Dark Chocolate Pretzel

ORGANIC $7

Late July Organic Cheddar Cheese Crackers • Terra Nostra Organic Dark Chocolate Square • Kettle Valley Organic Fruit Snack • Nature’s Path Organic Pumpkin Flaxplus Granola • Bare Fruit Organic Cinnamon Apple Chips

À LA CARTE $ 3 AVAILABLE ALL DAY ON FLIGHTS OVER 2 HOURS Lay’s Stax Potato Chips

Fisher Salty Nut Mix

Odwalla Banana Nut Nutritional Bar

Toblerone Chocolate Bar

Clif Bar Oatmeal Raisin Walnut

mySmoothie Fruit Smoothie Beverage

Walkers Shortbread Cookies

SPIRITS, WINE and BEER AVAILABLE ON ALL FLIGHTS, ALL DAY PREMIUM COCKTAILS $ 8

LIQUEURS $ 6 Bailey’s Irish Cream Courvoisier VSOP Cognac Kahlúa

Trader Vic’s Mai Tai (served on Hawaii flights to/from the mainland)

Jose Cuervo Margarita

PREMIUM SPIRITS $ 8

PREMIUM WINE $7 - $ 8 RED - Cheviot Bridge Shiraz 2008 South Eastern Australia $7 WHITE - Cheviot Bridge Chardonnay 2008 Adelaide Hills Australia $7 SPARKLING - J.P. Chenet Brut Blanc de Blancs nv France $ 8

Glenlivet Single Malt Scotch Whisky Level Vodka Maker’s Mark Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whisky

SPIRITS $ 6 Bacardi Rum Canadian Club Reserve Whisky Dewar’s White Label Scotch Finlandia Vodka Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey Jim Beam Black Bourbon Whiskey Tanqueray Gin

WINE $ 6 RED - Redwood Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 California WHITE - Redwood Creek Chardonnay 2007 California

PREMIUM BEER $7 Leinenkugel’s Sunset Wheat Beer

BEER $ 6

Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only. By FAA rule, we may not serve alcohol to customers who appear intoxicated. Customers are limited to one alcoholic beverage at a time during service. Only alcohol provided

by United and served by flight attendants may be consumed onboard.

p147_LHP_Gatefold.indd 1

Miller Genuine Draft Miller Lite

PAYMENT EasyPurchase Only credit/debit cards are accepted.

09/11/2009 14:55

BEVERAGES R E L A X W I T H Y O U R FAV O R I T E D R I N K .

Beverage service is available on most United ights. Alcoholic beverage selections vary according to cabin class and international or domestic ight status. Alcoholic beverages are available for $6 – $8 on most ights.

NONALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES

s 3OFT $RINKS s 4ONIC 7ATER s 3ELTZER 7ATER s .ATURAL 3PRING 7ATER s -ILK s 4EA s !SSORTED &RUIT *UICES s 3TARBUCKS 2EGULAR AND $ECAFFEINATED #OFFEES

CONTEMPORARY

American Cuisine

WINES UNITED FIRST AND UNITED BUSINESS (DOMESTIC) You will be offered a choice of red and white wines.

Selections may include the following: RED

s "USHMAN S 'ULLY 3HIRAZ 3OUTHEASTERN !USTRALIA s 4RAPICHE -ALBEC -ENDOZA WHITE

s 4WO /CEANS 3AUVIGNON "LANC 7ESTERN #APE s 9ALI #HARDONNAY -AIPO 6ALLEY SELECT UNITED FIRST AND UNITED BUSINESS (DOMESTIC AND INTERNATIONAL)

Premium inflight dining with a modern twist...

With a new food philosophy centered around contemporary American cuisine, United’s premium onboard dining is being elevated to new heights. Along with our culinary partners Charlie Trotter, Trader Vic’s, and Master Sommelier Doug Frost, we’re offering traditional dishes with a modern twist, while also offering regional and ethnic items. The new menu is built around fresh, local, ingredients whenever possible, combined in innovative new offerings.

CHARLIE TROTTER Charlie Trotter’s namesake Chicago establishment is one of the world’s most-awarded restaurants, having been named, among others, “The Best Restaurant in the World for Wine & Food� (Wine Spectator, 1998), and “Outstanding Restaurant� (The James Beard Foundation, 2000). Restaurant Magazine has voted it one of the “World’s 50 Best Restaurants� every year since 2004. Chef Trotter has designed a new menu especially for United, available on most United First Ž and United BusinessŽ outbound international flights.

Selections from the legendary Trader Vic’s will be available in United First and United Business class on many of our Pacific and Asian routes and on United First class between Hawaii and the mainland. On any given flight you could enjoy items like Sesame Pink Peppercorn Salmon with Lime Leaf Beurre Blanc Sauce, or Chicken with Shiitake Mushrooms in Mango Chili Stir Fry. TRADER VIC’S

United has partnered with world renowned Master Sommelier and Master of Wine, Doug Frost, to supply the perfect selections for all of our new menu offerings.

DOUG FROST

S PA R K L I N G W I N E

s "ODEGAS #OVIDES $UC DE &OIX "RUT UNITED ECONOMYÂŽ ALL FLIGHTS

s 2EDWOOD #REEK #ABERNET 3AUVIGNON #ALIFORNIA s 2EDWOOD #REEK #HARDONNAY #ALIFORNIA UNITED ECONOMY PREMIUM WINES (DOMESTIC ONLY)

s #HEVIOT "RIDGE #HARDONNAY Adelaide Hills Australia s #HEVIOT "RIDGE 3HIRAZ 3OUTHEASTERN !USTRALIA s * 0 #HENET "RUT "LANC DE "LANCS NV &RANCE Sparkling Wine UNITED FIRST AND UNITED BUSINESS FLIGHTS

Please refer to the printed menu.

C O C K TA I L S , B E E R , S P I R I T S , L I Q U E U R S UNITED ECONOMY PREMIUM COCKTAIL (DOMESTIC ONLY) C O C K TA I L

s *OSE #UERVO -ARGARITA UNITED FIRST, UNITED BUSINESS AND UNITED ECONOMY BEER

s ,EINENKUGEL S 3UNSET 7HEAT s -ILLER 'ENUINE $RAFT s -ILLER ,ITE Beer offerings are subject to availability. A selection of regional beers is offered on some International flights.

SPIRITS

s -AKER S -ARK +ENTUCKY 3TRAIGHT "OURBON 7HISKEY s ,EVEL 6ODKA s 'LENLIVET 3COTCH (internationally premium cabins only) s "ACARDI 2UM s #ANADIAN #LUB 2ESERVE s $EWAR S 7HITE ,ABEL 3COTCH s &INLANDIA 6ODKA s *ACK $ANIEL S 4ENNESSEE 7HISKEY s *IM "EAM "LACK "OURBON 7HISKEY s 4ANQUERAY 'IN LIQUEURS

s "AILEY S )RISH #REAM s #OURVOISIER 63/0 #OGNAC s +AHLĂžA ONLY ON INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Coke

Diet Coke

Sprite

Sprite Zero

Ginger Ale

On selected intra-Pacific flights originating from Japan, enjoy a Trader Vic’s meal in United First or Business.

Starbucks Coffee

B+HPL3UHP)RRG%HYBILQDO LQGG p147_LHP_Gatefold.indd 1

Bloody Mary Mix

Apple & Tomato Juices

Spring Water

s !BSOLUT 6ODKA s #HIVAS 2EGAL 3COTCH s $I 3ARONNO !MARETTO Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only. By FAA rule, we may not serve alcohol to customers who appear intoxicated. Customers are limited to one alcoholic beverage at a time during service. Only alcohol provided by United and served by flight attendants may be consumed onboard.

30 09/11/2009 14:51

BREAKFAST ON FLIGHTS OVER 3 HOURS DEPARTING BEFORE 10 AM BREAKFAST MUFFIN $ 3 Delicious blueberry or cinnamon crumb cake muffins. Selections may vary.

FRUIT AND YOGURT PARFAIT $ 5 Low fat vanilla yogurt served with fruit and a side of granola.

French toast flavored bagel, cream cheese, Smuckers strawberry jam and Upstate Farms strawberry yogurt.

HAM AND SWISS CROISSANT $ 5 Flavorful ham and swiss cheese on a croissant with dijonnaise sauce (served cold).

y g parfait p fruit and yogurt

CONTINENTAL BREAKFAST $ 5

LUNCH/DINNER ON FLIGHTS OVER 3 HOURS DEPARTING BETWEEN 10 AM AM --8 8PM PM ASSORTED CHEESE TRAY $ 6 Specially selected cheeses including monterey jack, havarti dill and cheddar, dried cranberries, almonds and assorted Pepperidge Farm crackers.

Sliced salami, mozzarella cheese, havarti dill cheese, Mediterranean or Vinaigrette olives and Grissini Torino breadsticks.

ROAST BEEF SANDWICH $ 9 Tasty roast beef topped with crisp romaine lettuce and horseradish mayonnaise on ciabatta bread, accompanied by Kettle Classics potato chips.

p p antipasto plate

ANTIPASTO PLATE $7

TURKEY SANDWICH $ 9

THAI CHICKEN WRAP $ 9 Grilled chicken breast, romaine lettuce, julienned carrots, red and yellow bell pepper strips and thai aioli sauce wrapped in a tortilla, accompanied by Kettle Classics potato chips.

turkeyy sandwich

Tender smoked turkey topped with crisp romaine lettuce and sundried tomato aioli sauce on multigrain bread, accompanied by Kettle Classics potato chips.

SPINACH SALAD $ 9

CHICKEN CAESAR SALAD $ 9 Grilled chicken, red and yellow bell pepper strips, shredded parmesan cheese on a bed of crisp romaine lettuce, served with classic caesar dressing and croutons on the side.

United does not serve peanuts as snacks or use peanuts or peanut oils in foods served on our flights. However, we do serve vendor products manufactured in facilities that also produce items containing peanuts or peanut oils, and we do have snack mixes that contain other tree nuts, such as almonds and pistachios.

p148_A_RHP_Gatefold.indd 1

chicken caesar salad

A vegetarian delight of fresh spinach, blue cheese crumbles, dried cranberries and walnut halves, served with balsamic vinaigrette dressing and croutons on the side.

Your feedback is welcomed via ualsurvey.com within seven days of your flight. United, Choice Menu, and EasyPurchase are trademarks of United. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners.

We apologize if your selection is not available on today’s flight.

09/11/2009 14:56

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p148 Outside Back.indd 1

09/11/2009 11:25