United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine November 2011

NOVEMBER 2011

Hemisphe heres THREE PERFECT DAYS IN MEXICO CITY BILL COSBY REVISITS THE EARLY YEARS IN THE HEMI Q&A

A FOOLPROOF GUIDE TO THE BEST HOLIDAY GIFT IDEAS

OLD-SCHOOL EATS ON HAMBURG’S BRAND-NEW WATERFRONT

PORSCHE’S SLEEK TOURING CAR TAKES SAN SEBASTIÁN

THREE PERFECT DAYS: MEXICO CITY • THE HEMI Q&A WITH BILL COSBY • THE 2011 HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE P001_HEMUA1111_Cover.indd 1

10/10/2011 08:46

Your Golden Angel

No one else can see it, but you know the secret of your Wellendorff ring – a little golden angel is hidden inside.

Read the whole story which inspired us to create this new collection at: www.wellendorff.com/goldenangel

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A true story: “One day a raging fire destroyed everything I possessed, including my beloved jewellery.

Only one piece survived the inferno practically undamaged: my Wellendorff necklace adorned with a golden angel.

After this fire, jewellery has a completely different meaning for me; because it proves that miracles do happen.�

Letter from Inga Lasmane of Riga, Latvia.

This letter is the inspiration for our new collection.

It came as a welcome reminder of the true value of jewellery: To offer joy and protection.

Wellendorff-Boutique San Francisco at Shreve & Co., 200 Post Street, tel. 415.860.4010.

For further details or how to find a Wellendorff jeweller near you, please contact Wellendorff, tel. 801.556.5206 or e-mail: usa@wellendorff.com, www.wellendorff.com

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27/07/2011 09:09

Inspirato Residence, Beaver Creek, Colorado Sleeps 21 from $500/night

Inspirato is a private club which requires a non-refundable Initiation Fee. Reservations vary in price by property and date, and are subject to availability. Members-only rates as of 11/1/11 and subject to change. Š 2011, Inspirato LLC.

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06/10/2011 15:12

THE GREATEST GIFT OF ALL Give an Inspirato membership and you’re sure to receive smiles and O\NZ MYVT MHTPS` TLTILYZ ¯ HUK JLY[HPUS` H ML^ OPNO Ä ]LZ MYVT friends. That’s the emotional side of the equation.

Here’s the rational side. Your vacation doesn’t have to cost a fortune.

Our deeply discounted nightly rates say it loud and clear.

Membership includes a growing list of vacation destinations, an unmatched service experience, and no complicated rules.

Visit inspirato.com/thegreatestgift or call 888.546.5008.

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06/10/2011 15:12

www.spain.info

*

s y a w l a s a t s e i Our f finish early

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05/10/2011 11:22

NOVEMBER CONTENTS YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY

» 82 TOIL AND TROUBLE In recent years, the world’s theater scene has been struggling. But amid the doldrums, one intrepid British stage company hit it very, very big by combining Macbeth, Hitchcock and, most important, you, all in the creaky confines of an abandoned Manhattan hotel.

BY JENNA SCHERER PHOTOGRAPHS BY SARAH WILMER

» 91 BEST BUYS Regifting—which occurs when a present misses the target so badly that the recipient can hardly bear to have it in her home—happens to the best of us. To help you avoid such a fate, we recruited experts from the tech, design, food, toy and sports worlds to offer can’tmiss picks this holiday season.

BY JACQUELINE DETWILER PHOTOGRAPHS BY LISA SHIN ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOHN JAY CABUAY

» 102 THREE PERFECT DAYS: MEXICO CITY From the leafy streets of Polanco to the bohemian haunts of Roma, we take you through the best of one of the world’s biggest and most vibrant cities.

PHOTOGRAPH BY HOLLY WILMETH

BY JOE KEOHANE PHOTOGRAPHS BY HOLLY WILMETH

STANDING GUARD A traditional carving adorns the exterior of Mexico City’s Frida Kahlo Museum

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • NOVEMBER 2011

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WHORL OF POSSIBILITIES A “space portal” leads visitors into the newly renovated theater at Chicago’s Adler Planetarium, page 50

NOVEMBER CONTENTS YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY

10 CONTRIBUTORS

38 FOOD & DRINK

59 BRIGHT IDEAS

13 CEO LETTER

A taste of Hamburg’s culinary heritage; Germany’s spiciest currywurst

Autoworker. Facebook wiz.

Cancer researcher. Meet Jeff Hammerbacher, 29

BY JIFFER BOURGUIGNON

BY PETER COHAN

A message to flyers

43 HOW IT’S DONE

70 THE HEMI Q&A

16 CONNECTIONS

Dubai’s record-shattering new bridge—built on shifting sand

Bill Cosby on honing his comedic style (plus: how not to apply cologne)

BY JACQUELINE DETWILER

BY DAVID CARR

A word from Jeff Smisek

SUBSCRIBE TO HEMISPHERES

14 VOICES

For a free subscription to our monthly eMag and to access recent issues, go to

What’s new at United

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

THE WORLD

46 WHAT TO WEAR

76 THE FAN

19 DISPATCHES

Looking sharp among the weeping willows of Savannah

A look at the thrilling run-up to this year’s Breeders’ Cup

facebook.com/UnitedHemispheres twitter.com/hemispheresmag

Miami’s Art Basel, by the numbers; Japan’s first foreign geisha simplifies the kimono; Berlin’s scoring leader; the world’s smallest brewery; Kristin Chenoweth gets back to her roots

CULTURE 49 THE BIG TEN

BY CHRIS WRIGHT

John Paul Gaultier fêted in Dallas, Lou Reed meets Metallica and what else to watch, read and listen to this month

34 ROAD TRIP

56 TECH

Taking the clan to San Sebastián in the four-door Porsche Panamera

The best of the nextgeneration newsreaders

29 STAY Indulge in the ultimate ski-free ski vacation

BY MICHAEL KAPLAN

BY WAYMAN BANNERMAN

BY TOM SAMILJAN

ENTERTAINMENT & INFORMATION 125 Movies, Television and Audio Programming 134 Crossword and Sudoku 139 Route Maps, Customs & Immigration, Our Fleet, Terminal Diagrams, Safety & Travel Assistance, MileagePlus and Alliances & Partnerships

BY STEPHAN TALTY

ABOUT THE COVER: A vibrant example of the crafts on offer at Mexico City’s El Bazar del Sábado, this traditional beadwork was photographed by Holly Wilmeth

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160 Food & Beverages

!

WRITE TO US: Editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com • 68 Jay St., Ste. 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201

COURTESY OF ADLER PLANETARIUM

DOWNLOAD OUR FREE IPAD APP FROM ITUNES

NOVEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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07/10/2011 09:13

O N E G R E AT C A M E R A

LEADS TO ANOTHER.

INNOVATIVE TECHNOLOGY, EXCEPTIONAL PICTURES AND CLASSIC STYLING. The new FUJIFILM X10 is a sophisticated, compact digital camera that follows in the footsteps of the FUJIFILM X100. It features retro styling and superior

F U J I F I L M X10 U S A . C O M

craftsmanship. And the X10 produces superb image quality through the unique FUJIFILM EXR CMOS sensor and a bright, high-definition FUJINON F2.0 lens (wide-angle to F2.8 telephoto, 4x manual zoom 28–112mm).

FUJIFILM and FUJINON are trademarks of FUJIFILM Corporation and its affiliates. © 2011 FUJIFILM North America Corporation and its affiliates. All rights reserved.

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30/09/2011 15:26

EDITOR IN CHIEF Joe Keohane EXECUTIVE EDITOR Sam Polcer MANAGING EDITOR Jennifer L. Johnson SENIOR EDITOR Jacqueline Detwiler FASHION EDITOR Nino Bauti

The Right Stuff

ART DIRECTOR Christine Bower-Wright ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR

Tim Vienckowski

FOR THIS MONTH’S holiday gift guide (“Best Buys,” page 91), senior editor Jacqueline Detwiler tapped five industry gurus and dozens of retailers to help assemble a spread of the season’s coolest and most distinctive presents. Wrangling experts—a chef, a toymaker, a designer, a golf pro and an executive at Google Chrome—was a challenge, but they ended up providing some inspired picks. “I edit the Goods section of Hemispheres every month, so I know a lot about the great new stuff that’s out there. I first saw the pink Himalayan salt blocks in a food shop in Boston, for instance. But some of the things our experts came up with, like the handheld food smoker and those odd and adorable Sing-a-ma-jigs, I never would’ve thought of in a million years,” she says. “Now I want them.”

PHOTO EDITOR Jessie Adler CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Jay Cheshes, Alyssa Giacobbe, Michael Kaplan, Edward Lewine, Adam K. Raymond, Cristina Rouvalis, Grant Stoddard, Matt Thompson CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS

Jeffrey Decoster, Peter James Field, Alex Nabaum, Peter Oumanski, Steve Stankiewicz EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Michael Keating U.S. EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

Orion Ray-Jones Ink, 68 Jay St., Ste. 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 Tel: +1 347-294-1220 Fax: +1 917-591-6247 editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com hemispheresmagazine.com WEBMASTER Salah Lababidi ADVERTISING U.S. GROUP PUBLISHING DIRECTOR

?

Stephen Andrews

WHAT DO YOU THINK? WRITE TO US! Editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com Hemispheres Magazine, 68 Jay St., Ste. 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201

VP STRATEGY AND BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Andrea Alexander ADVERTISING ACCOUNT MANAGERS

Ann Blach, Robbin Gordon, Kevin Green, Kristina Kurz, Dorie Leo, Danny Litton, Mary Anne MacLean, Dave Madonia, Joe McHugh, Jack Miller, Jeff Miller, Stu Opfer, Marshall Rubin, Scott Stone, Caryn Tanis

Contributors

NORTHEAST ADVERTISING DIRECTOR

Brian McLaughlin HAWAII Robert Wiegand EUROPE Sarah Orme ASIA Jacqueline Ho LATIN AMERICA Alejandro Salas CARIBBEAN Francesca Mariani SOUTH AMERICA Olivier Capoulade PRODUCTION MANAGER Joe Massey

Tel: +1 678-553-8091 PRODUCTION CONTROLLERS

Grace Dinwiddie, Stacy Willis MARKETING AND EVENTS MANAGER

Nikkole Wyrick SALES AND MARKETING COORDINATOR Melinda Hanna

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STEPHAN TALTY reports that driving to San Sebastián in a Porsche Panamera (“Flexible Flyer,” page 34) was a highlight of his nine months living in Spain, surpassed only by body-surfing with his young son Asher off one of the city’s stunning beaches. A journalist now living in New York, Talty writes for Men’s Journal and Playboy.

LISA SHIN is a digital still-life photographer who’s worked for Cover Girl, Vogue and Real Simple.

But our annual gift guide (“Best Buys,” page 91) proved “one of the most challenging shoots I’ve ever done,” she says. “We shot the gifts, then mounted the images on cubes, painted them and shot the results to create the final images—in just two days!”

Ink (sales), Capital Building, 255 E. Paces Ferry Rd., Ste. 400, Atlanta, GA 30305 Tel: +1 888-864-1733 Fax: +1 917-591-6247 Ink CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke COO Hugh Godsal PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Simon Leslie HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by Ink. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in Hemispheres are not necessarily those of the Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not accept any responsibility for advertising content. Neither United, its subsidiaries nor affiliates guarantees the accuracy, completeness or timeliness of, or otherwise endorses these facts, views, opinions or recommendations, gives investment advice, or advocates the purchase or sale of any security or investment. You should always seek the assistance of a professional for tax and investment advice. Any images are supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company or its products or services by United Airlines.

LISA SHIN (SING-A-MA-JIG)

JENNA SCHERER is a writer based in Boston, where she covers arts, culture and ephemera for the Boston Herald, Time Out and other publications.

Ever since attending a performance of Sleep No More in a fauxderelict Manhattan hotel (“Toil and Trouble,” page 82), she keeps seeing Prohibition-era witches lurking in the shadows.

NOVEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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07/10/2011 09:14

Help your business traveler make their next presentation.

A Garmin nüvi is still the best navigator on the road. And it makes a great gift for road weary travelers. The new 2012 nüvi models are available with FREE Lifetime Map Updates, the best FREE Digital 3D Traffic avoidance system, photoReal junction views, hands-free voice-activated navigation, and, as always, NEVER require a data plan or navigation service fee. They may worry about a meeting, but not about how to get to it. This Holiday, Give a Garmin.

To learn more, visit Garmin.com

NASDAQ GRMN

Someone you know needs one

©2011 Garmin Ltd. or its subsidiaries Lifetime maps include up to four map updates per year for the useful life of your product or as long as Garmin receives map data from its supplier, whichever is shorter. Not transferable. Additional memory (purchase required) may be necessary for future map updates.

Lifetime traffic applies for the useful life of your product or as long as Garmin receives traffic data from its supplier, whichever is shorter.

Traffic and photoReal junction view not available for all areas. See www.garmin.com for lifetime maps and traffic details, coverage, terms and conditions.

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04/10/2011 09:38

© 2011 United Air Lines, Inc. All rights reserved.

Your “go-to” app when you’re on the go.

Make our new app your one-stop travel center.

Scan this QR code for more information.

The new United travel app is like a travel toolkit. You can book flights. Check in and store your Mobile Boarding Pass. Even see your flight status, including departure gate, seat map and upgrade priority list. It’s one travel app with many applications.

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06/10/2011 09:00

CEO LETTER

Stop Air Tax Now WELCOME ABOARD, and thanks for choosing United Airlines for your flight today.

It’s no secret that the U.S. airline industry has been through rough times in the past decade, losing a total of $55 billion and laying off 160,000 workers during that time. We have endured high and volatile fuel costs, a global recession, and numerous natural disasters adversely affecting air travel. In the past year or so, we’ve seen some signs of hope. Industry trends like consolidation and capacity discipline have helped airlines begin to stabilize, but the industry continues to face serious challenges. On the rare occasions when airlines are profitable, they obtain only a razor-thin profit margin. This is a sad state of affairs for an industry that is such a powerful economic engine, driving $1.2 trillion in economic activity every year and connecting people, cargo and cultures around the world.

Yet Washington continues to use airlines (and their employees, shareholders and customers) as a piggy bank to be

raided by government.

Today, airlines and our passengers pay 17 different federal aviation taxes and fees in the U.S., which totaled $16.5 billion in 2010. Federal taxes have increased from 7 percent of the price of a typical ticket in 1972 to 20 percent in 2011. And this excludes income tax! How would your business do if Washington took 20 percent off the top before you saw a nickel? Our industry leads all others in having the greatest number of unique taxes and fees imposed upon it and its customers by Washington. Think about what you buy—milk, electronics, clothing, etc. None of these goods is taxed at a rate of 20 percent (and if they were, you might not buy them). Airlines are taxed as a sin, at a higher rate than alcohol, tobacco and firearms. Yet we are not a sin. We are an economic good that drives our economy and offers well-paying jobs. Moreover, airlines power the economies of hub cities and are economic lifelines to small and medium-sized communities.

Yet Washington’s grab for our and our customers’ money is reaching unheard-of levels now. The Administration’s American Jobs Act proposes a new $100-per-flight tax that would cost $11 billion over 10 years. The proposal also seeks to increase the passenger security tax from today’s minimum of $2.50 per customer per flight segment to $7.50. This proposed increase would cost nearly $25 billion over 10 years.

More than half that amount would not fund security, but would instead be applied to Washington’s debt. Why should airlines and their passengers be singled out to pay for Washington’s profligacy?

If these major tax increases occur, the big losers will not be just our customers, who will be saddled with these new and increased taxes, but also small communities all over the country that will lose service as airlines become unable to absorb the losses caused by these taxes. These proposed additional taxes (which are on top of the 20 percent tax level currently burdening the industry) are job killers, because if they become law, the industry will be forced to lay off thousands of employees as it downsizes to eliminate routes and service that become unprofitable. For more information on what these taxes would mean to communities, customers and airline employees, go to www.stopairtaxnow.com.

In the global world we serve today, U.S. airlines compete not just against each other, but also against foreign flag carriers. Many nations have an enlightened aviation policy. The U.S. has a benighted policy. It’s critical that we have a national aviation policy that supports, rather than hinders, U.S. airlines so we can continue to provide you with the service you want and our country and economy need.

Thanks again for your business. We look forward to seeing you again on a future flight.

PRESIDENT AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, UNITED AIRLINES

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • NOVEMBER 2011

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10/10/2011 08:45

VOICES

A Shining Example International Concierge Gloria ‘Glo’ Leitao brightens up the day for customers and co-workers alike BY A. AVERYL RE FRIENDS AND COLLEAGUES call Gloria Leitao “Glo.” The nickname is a fitting one, considering how the international concierge goes about her job at New York/ Newark Liberty International Airport (EWR), bringing a kind of shine to whatever she does.

“When people have experience, they might become complacent about their work, but that’s not the case with Gloria,” says Michael Mitolo, EWR’s airport operations supervisor. “She’s enthusiastic and energetic, and she projects that to her coworkers. Gloria always looks at the upside.”

Leitao has been with the airline since 1987, working in a number of customer

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service positions both behind the scenes and on the front lines. Twelve years ago, she found her niche when she joined the Concierge Program, and today Leitao serves on an elite team of 52 concierges who handle primarily international BusinessFirst customers.

“Our customers are premium-paying customers,” Leitao says. “When you’re paying that much to travel, you expect a service that meets that dollar amount. We uphold the integrity of the BusinessFirst cabin, no ma er the situation.”

In addition to meeting the needs of passengers at the airport, the concierges monitor inbound and outbound flights

to make sure passengers make their connecting flights, rebooking itineraries as needed to ensure each passenger has a smooth travel experience. Each concierge is responsible for as many as 200 passengers a day among the flights they’ve been assigned out of the 100 or so that go through Newark daily in peak season.

Leitao says patience, a great attitude and the ability to listen well are her biggest assets in doing her job. “You have to keep things in perspective,” she says.

“I’m grateful for everything I have—I’m grateful I can come to work, walk to my gate, support my customers. They may tell me about problems they have, and I hear them out. A customer may have a line behind him, but at that moment, he has my full a ention for as long as it takes. You can be positive or you can be negative. Positive is a be er state to be in, so I choose to be positive.”

Because she works the same flights from day to day, Leitao has go en to know many loyal customers who fly regularly, and considers them friends. Yet one of her favorite job experiences involved someone who not only doesn’t fly United regularly, but also would not be strictly considered a passenger.

“We had a Catholic monsignor coming in from Honolulu. My supervisor told me, ‘I don’t know what he needs, but if anyone can handle it, it would be you.’ So I went off to find the monsignor,” Leitao recalls. “He told me he was traveling with a reliquary of St. Thérèse of the Li le Flower, and ‘she’ could not be le alone. Well, I broke out in tears. I asked my supervisor if I could sit with her.”

The monsignor had traveled with the reliquary throughout Guam and the Polynesian region, and was now passing through Newark on his way back to France. Leitao stayed in cargo with the remains of the saint until it was time to meet the monsignor at the airport lounge and escort him to his flight to Paris.

“I wasn’t able to upgrade him,” Leitao says, “but he said, ‘If St. Thérèse can fly cargo, I can fly coach.’

“It was the most amazing assignment ever given to me,” she says. “That’s what my job does for me: Every day, I come in and I never know what I’m going to do or who I’m going to meet. It’s like a new adventure every day. That’s what makes every day exciting.”

NOVEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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12/08/2011 15:29

CONNECTIONS

ASK THE PILOT With Captain Mike Bowers

Q: Why is it that flights going east to west within the U.S. take longer than flights going west to east, especially in the winter?

New Name, New Look, New Benefits United Club brings our airport lounges under one sleek, modern umbrella, while MileagePlus becomes even more rewarding IN SEPTEMBER, as part of our drive to provide a more consistent travel experience for our customers, we announced two more milestones in the integration of our two airlines’ products and services. On October 1, we marked the first milestone when our airport lounges became United Clubs, replacing United’s Red Carpet Clubs and Continental’s Presidents Clubs.

Encompassing more than 50 lounges in 39 airports worldwide, United Clubs offer members and their guests complimentary bar service with snacks and beverages; business amenities such as Wi-Fi, conference rooms and workstations; and personalized assistance with reservations, seat selection, upgrades and boarding passes. In time, our remodeled clubs will provide even more business-friendly features that customers value, like additional workstations to enable them to be more productive.

Red Carpet Club and Presidents Club members may continue to access any of the new United Clubs with their current membership credentials. Members also have access to participating Star Alliance–affiliated lounges located all around the globe.

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For more information about United Club and membership pricing, visit united.com/ unitedclub or continental.com/unitedclub.

As for our second milestone, we recently announced the details of the 2012 MileagePlus loyalty program, including new benefits and services for United’s and Continental’s most frequent flyers, more opportunities for members to redeem their award miles and additional recognition for customers who purchase tickets in premium cabins or at premium economy fares.

Premier members enjoy benefits including upgrades, Premier Access, a checked-baggage allowance, Economy Plus seating and Premier bonus award miles. Premier-level status can be reached with as few as 25,000 Premier qualifying miles or 30 Premier qualifying segments.

We are building the world’s most rewarding loyalty program, and we now have more than 30 worldwide airline partners and thousands of participating hotels, car rental agencies, restaurants and retailers. To learn more about the program and all the benefits you can enjoy, go to mileageplus.com.

A: The reason the flights take more time when heading west is because you’re flying into a headwind caused by the jet stream, which flows from west to east in the U.S. Conversely, when flying east you have a tailwind. The winds at flying altitude are normally in the range of 70 to 100 mph in the summer and can be even higher in the winter. That speed is directly added to or subtracted from the aircraft’s ground speed and, as a result, makes a significant difference in flying time.

Do you have a question for Captain Bowers? Write to him at askthepilot@ united.com

NOVEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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07/10/2011 16:02

Your official * HQ for TCB. *Taking Care of Business From must-haves like complimentary Wi-Fi and printing to creature comforts like our exclusive Garden Sleep System™ bed, the most successful business trip is one spent at Hilton Garden Inn.® And with Hilton HHonors™, you can now earn more for all stays through 2011 with our Fast Ways to Free Stays promotion.

Choose between a Free Night Certificate or double HHonors points.

Enroll today to collect your rewards at HHonors.com/FastWays

HGI.com

1-877-STAY HGI

©2011 Hilton Worldwide

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10/10/2011 14:57

Palm Tree Pendant with Diamonds

Matching Earrings available

Various sizes available Available in 14K Yellow, White or Rose Gold

OAHU: Ala Moana Center t Outrigger Waikiki on Kalakaua Avenue (across from International Market Place) Waikiki Beachwalk t Hilton Hawaiian Village MAUI: Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center t Lahaina Cannery t The Shops at Wailea t Whalers Village Front Street (2 locations) t Hyatt Regency Maui t Grand Wailea Resort KAUAI: Poipu Shopping Village t Grand Hyatt Kauai BIG ISLAND OF HAWAII: Kona Marketplace t Kings’ Shops t Hilton Waikoloa Village NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE: Pride of America BOSTON: Natick Collection t Northshore Mall CHICAGO: Oakbrook Center t Woodfield Mall DALLAS: NorthPark Center DENVER: Cherry Creek Shopping Center LOS ANGELES: Glendale Galleria t Northridge Fashion Center NEW YORK: Roosevelt Field ORLANDO: The Mall at Millenia PHILADELPHIA: The Plaza at King of Prussia PLEASANTON: Stoneridge Mall PORTLAND: Washington Square SAN DIEGO: Fashion Valley t Horton Plaza SAN FRANCISCO: Pier 39 SAN JOSE: Valley Fair SEATTLE: Bellevue Square WASHINGTON, D.C.: Tysons Corner Center

/B)PLV DPN t 1-866-296-5462

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01/08/2011 08:32

THE WORLD FAC TS T R E NDS NE WS

PHOTO CREDIT EXHIBITOR INFORMATION TK - REMOVE CURRENT IF EMPTY AS OF 9/23/11

Painting the Town The most prestigious art show in the Americas, Art Basel Miami Beach turns 10 this year—and in a city be er known for low-rise bikinis than highbrow art, it promises to be a world-class party. Here’s where the 260-plus exhibitors hail from (so you can be prepared to ask, “Can I buy you a mojito?” in all the right languages).

ILLUSTRATION BY LA TIGRE

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • NOVEMBER 2011

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05/10/2011 09:09

Possessed by the magic of a great celebration, dancers attired in magnificent gold costumes, dance for days and days In the Mirror of the Sky, the Virgin conquered the demon by surrounding it with her burning flames, thus saving the inhabitants from destruction.

That day she was consecrated as their protector and has ever since been venerated with the greatest celebration witnessed by the Land of the Sun. This celebration exists. You can see it, feel it.

Peru. Live the legend.

peru.travel/en/

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Celebrate the spectacular Festival of the Virgin of Candelaria on the shores of Titicaca, the world’s highest navigable lake.

28/09/2011 16:04

DISPATCHES

BERLIN

Silent Treatment Classic films of yesteryear (along with the odd sporting event) get a new sound BY GIULIA PINES

ACROSS THE WATER from Berlin’s Museum Island, the audience at the Zeughauskino waits for the lights to dim. A man in a red velvet jacket rises from the front row, crosses toward the grand piano underneath the movie screen and sits down. The theater goes dark, the film starts, the man looks up at the screen and he begins to play.

The film is Frau im Mond (“Woman in the Moon”), a 1929 silent sci-fi classic by Austrian master Fritz Lang. It’s one that the cinephiles in the seats know and love, but that isn’t the only draw: The man at the piano is Carsten-Stephan Graf von Bothmer, and he’s no ordinary film accompanist, as evidenced by his lack of sheet music.

Von Bothmer has improvised music for hundreds of silent films, his favorite being Lang’s futuristic masterwork, Metropolis, which he’s done 35 times. A decade ago, von Bothmer, who studied piano

ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER OUMANSKI

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at the Universität der Künste (University of the Arts) in Berlin, was asked by a theater manager to score the film. A er failing to write music to his own satisfaction, von Bothmer improvised a performance that enthralled the audience and launched his new career.

One of his most talked-about performances was at Berlin’s Emmaus Church in July last year, during the final four games of the World Cup. He improvised a commentary on the games’ action using the church organ, throwing in familiar riffs such as “The Imperial March” from Star Wars. The fans, he says, “had never experienced a game so intensely before.”

Although no such feats are planned for the immediate future, von Bothmer recently returned from a tour of South America and a performance in the Philippines. So which film will get his treatment next? “I’d really love to do The Lord of the Rings,” he says.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • NOVEMBER 2011

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05/10/2011 09:14

Photo: Nathan Bilow Inset photos: Tom Stillo, Alex Fenlon

4TH NIGHT & 4TH DAY ARE ON US! Buy 3 nights of lodging & 3 days of lift tickets Jan 3 – Mar 9, 2012 and your 4th night & day are FREE. Not available Feb 22 – 25, 2012.

Some restrictions apply

an attitude a joy for living a welcoming spirit our idea of crowded slopes Butteness–noun: Uniquely Crested Butte. Hard to define, but you know it when you see it, or better yet, experience it.

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05/10/2011 11:23

Dispatches || THE WORLD

TOKYO

Beginner’s Belt ONE OF THE GEISHA WORLD’S BEST-KEPT SECRETS IS REVEALED

A woman dressed in a powder-blue kimono and wooden geta sandals makes her way through the crowd near Tokyo’s oldest temple, Sensoji, in what was once an infamous entertainment district. Her name is Sayuki. And while she prefers not to reveal her age or full name, Sayuki has been well known in her adopted country since 2007, when the Australian became the first-ever foreign geisha.

After gliding past the sweets stalls and tea shops lining the narrow streets, this social anthropologist (who holds both a Ph.D. and an M.B.A. from Oxford) arrives at her latest tradition-bucking venture: Sayuki no Kimonoya, a store that specializes in kimonos that wearers can easily put on by themselves.

Opened in March, the tiny shop is filled with brightly colored, neatly folded kimonos, many of which are recycled, but all of which are immaculate. (A used kimono set begins at around $250, or about a 10th of the price of a new one.) Sayuki’s hottest seller, however, is her revolutionary take on the traditional belt known as an obi. Little known outside the geisha community, the revamped version is called a tsukeobi: Instead of the single stretch of material used in an obi, each tsukeobi is cut into two pieces, allowing even novices to fasten it in minutes.

“Nearly every Japanese woman has an obi at home,” Sayuki says, “but 92 percent of them are unable to fasten one on their own. It’s very difficult and requires strength and practice. The tsukeobi makes it easier and faster, and once it’s on, no one can tell the difference.”

Sayuki notes with a polite smile that her product is perhaps not for kimono traditionalists. Considering the many customers who go straight from Sayuki no Kimonoya to the nearby Hello Kitty photo studio to have a picture taken in their new regalia, she’s probably right. —DANIELLE DEMETRIOU

NEW YORK

TINY BUBBLES Pu ing the “micro” in microbrewery Coney Island, meet your newest sideshow a raction. While Shmaltz Brewing Co. may brew more than 100,000 cases of beer a year, it’s debuting a side project, Coney Island Brewing Co., that claims to be the smallest commercially licensed brewery in the world.

All of Shmaltz’s beers—which include a playful collection of brews featuring unlikely ingredients (pomegranate, for instance) and labels with freak-show imagery—are contract brewed by Mendocino Brewing Co. in Saratoga Springs, N.Y. But recently, Jeremy Cowan, who founded Shmaltz in 1996, got a hankering to dabble in small batches. This summer he officially opened a brewery of his own just steps from Coney Island’s legendary boardwalk. It’s a 175-square-foot box of a space where beer is brewed one gallon at a time in a ramshackle system of pots and burners on full display. “It’s a fun extension of the whole brewery experience,” says manager and art director Ma Polacheck. “We can do whatever we want without having to answer to anyone.”

Beyond sampling Shmaltz’s usual lineup of beers at Coney’s endearingly clu ered sales counter, visitors can sip ever-changing, o en one-time-only concoctions. Cowan and his team rroutinely invite both professional and amateur guest brewers to man an the brew ke le, and nothing is too outlandish: Coney’s fridge recently stocked a Belgian-style ale made with apple and toasted coconut. Next up? A beer brewed with New Jersey–grown tomatoes and blueberries.

Polacheck admits there are hits and misses, but that’s the beauty of it. “If something doesn’t work, we’re not flushing 100 barrels of it,” he says. “It’s only a gallon! It will literally go down our drain in no time and be gone.” —BRET STETKA

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • NOVEMBER 2011

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THE WORLD || Dispatches

EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND

More Than Words On a small stage in Edinburgh’s Forest Café, Colin Herd is attempting to growl. A soft-spoken Scot with the look of a college professor, he forces a breath into the microphone. He errs, laughs. Sitting at one of many tables covered with plastic cups and wine bottles, a spectator yells, “You can do it!” Herd is reading his poem titled “How to Growl: Starter Techniques,” and it culminates in a “ye-owl!!”

The occasion for this strange bit of performance is the Golden Hour, a monthly “literary cabaret” that reimagines the literary event with live music and cartoons interspersed between poetry and prose performances. It’s hosted by Ryan Van Winkle, the American poet who launched it in 2006, and who hopes to expand it and take it on the road next year.

Tonight’s roster also features Newcastle’s Degna Stone, who performs poems about divorce and illness, and Amy Burns, an Alabama native with a tale about going on a journey with her novel’s main character. An hour after Herd’s performance, a one-man electro-dance act called BenOfficial appears onstage in a hooded rainbow bodysuit. Later, Olivia Salazar’s Spanish-Scottish accent enhances a few a cappella songs. The final act is local darling Portnawak & the Woo, a folky, genre-busting band.

“It feels like you’ve gone round to somebody’s house,” says regular Morag Edward, “somebody who’s popular and who’s got interesting friends.” The atmosphere is by turns convivial, arresting and, occasionally, messy: One slightly out-of-hand night ended with everyone being blasted with fire extinguisher foam.

This performance, however, ends with a dance party. The musicians, writers and audience get sweatier, the floor cozier and its boards shakier until, near midnight, the growling ceases and the band calls it quits. —COURTNEY BALESTIER

THIS MONTH CALENDAR OF WORLDLY EVENTS

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NEW YORK

SYDNEY

PHOENIX

MONTSERRAT

NOVEMBER 9–13

NOVEMBER 11

OPENS NOVEMBER 19

NOVEMBER 26

The Big Apple becomes a laugh riot as the New York Comedy Festival brings headliners Louis C.K., Ricky Gervais and Sarah Silverman to the city’s best theaters. nycomedyfestival.com

The Sydney Opera House’s Concert Hall is a fittingly sublime venue for “Way to Blue: The Songs of Nick Drake,” a starstudded tribute to the British folk hero. sydneyoperahouse.com

Want a new look? The exhibit “Native American Bolo Ties: Vintage and Contemporary” at the Heard Museum might inspire you to give Arizona’s distinctive neckwear a try. heard.org

You might be losing steam, but the live volcano you’re running past should be just the motivation you need to keep going during the strenuous Volcano HalfMarathon. volcanorunner.com

ESTATE OF KEITH MORRIS/REDFERNS (DRAKE); HEARD MUSEUM/CRAIG SMITH (BOLO TIE); ADAM STINTON (MARATHON)

REVISING THE LITERARY HAPPENING

NOVEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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THE WORLD || Disp Dispatches sp pa attch che ess

NASHVILLE, TENN.

Country Home Fresh off a workout at the Hutton Hotel in Nashville, Kristin Chenoweth is wearing black yoga pants and a gray sweatshirt over her lean (and improbably tiny) frame. Her face is flushed, shining and, at 43—without much makeup at all—flawless.

She’s in town to perform at the annual CMA Music Festival. With the fall release of her first country music record, Some Lessons Learned, the coloratura soprano and Broadway star has set off down a path that will bring her a li le closer to her Oklahoma roots. “I always wanted to make a country album, but I was afraid. I didn’t know if people would accept it,” she says.

For all her anxiety, Chenoweth comes by country as honestly as any newly minted Music Row talent. She started out singing in church, and at the age of 19 chased her radio-dial dreams to Nashville’s now-defunct Opryland USA theme park, where she performed as a singer and dancer.

Now, a er a blockbuster run on Broadway that included a Tonynominated turn in Wicked, as well as an Emmy-nominated cameo on “Glee,” she’s returned to Nashville— closer to country music’s beating heart and closer to family—thanks to an album that began as li le more than a clause she insisted on in her contract with Sony Masterworks.

And this might not be any old stop on a tour.

Like Nicole Kidman before her, Chenoweth is thinking about moving here. Music City could be the perfect home for this Oklahoman, who has for years split her time between New York and L.A. “It feels right,” she says. “It feels welcoming.”

A er a brief but nonetheless learned discussion about regional barbecue, it’s time to go.

Chenoweth steps out of the lobby, strides over to a modest midsize sedan and drives off, all the while looking right at home. —BRANTLEY HARGROVE

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JEREMY COWART

WITH HER NEW ALBUM, KRISTIN CHENOWETH GOES BACK TO HER ROOTS

NOVEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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STAY

Slipping the Slopes A guide to the perfect ski-free ski trip

BY CHRIS WRIGHT

FIRESIDE CHIC The Ritz-Carlton, Bachelor Gulch makes it tempting to spend a day off the mountain

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • NOVEMBER 2011

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THE WORLD || Stay

... OR NOT TO SKI Clockwise from top left, the White Turf horse race in St. Moritz, Switzerland; the Clubhouse at Spanish Peaks in Big Sky, Mont.; the front entrance of the Waldorf Astoria in Park City, Utah

THERE’S GENERALLY one in every ski party: the knock-kneed neophyte whose enthusiasm outstrips his ability, whose signature move turns out to be the Cla ering Cartwheel, a rapid descent that elicits gasps, groans and sometimes screams from onlookers. Luckily, the top ski resorts offer a variety of amenities that allow the most hapless among us to enjoy pristine winter wonderlands without risking injury or embarrassment.

Everyone knows you can’t have a ski vacation—whether or not you actually ski—without hot tubs. The Ritz-Carlton, Bachelor Gulch, on the slopes of the Colorado Rockies, takes this principle very seriously. In addition to its oversize lazyriver hot tub (located in an atmospheric gro o), there are copper tubs, stargazing tubs, a heated outdoor pool and a “Roaring Rapids” hydrotherapy massage, all of

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There are copper tubs, stargazing tubs, a heated outdoor pool and a “Roaring Rapids” hydrotherapy massage, all of which combine to perish even the most fleeting thought of ice.

which combine to perish even the most fleeting thought of ice.

Also in Colorado, the town of Breckenridge has no shortage of ways to divert you from the expansive mountain playground that looms above. There’s a lively bar scene (try the margaritas at Mexican eatery Mi Casa), top-notch dining (don’t miss chefowner Matt Fackler’s Colorado-inspired

cuisine at Relish) and lots of outdoor fun to be had (dogsledding, anyone?).

But all that is moot, really, because you won’t actually need to leave the luxurious One Ski Hill Place (which is, incidentally, ski-in/ski-out). There’s a new bar (the T-Bar), two movie lounges, a game room, an aquatics center at the spa and—get this—a two-lane bowling alley made to look like a

NOVEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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THE WORLD || Stay

HOT SPOT Japan’s Joshinetsu Kogen National Park may play host to 100-plus hotels and 21 ski areas, but not everyone here is interested in hitting the slopes—some, like the local snow monkeys, prefer to spend all day at the spa

mine sha . There’s also a bustling outdoor deck that’s the perfect se ing in which to tell your weary friends all about the funfilled day you just had not endangering yourself and others by tumbling down the slopes.

Meanwhile, the stately Waldorf Astoria in Park City, Utah, has enough rustic trappings to make you feel outdoorsy without having to venture outdoors. Sink into a plush fireside sofa with a psychological thriller and a hot toddy. Try a yam-andpumpkin enzyme peel at the resort’s Golden Door spa. Then direct your glowing face at a pla er of fried dough—the beignets at the restaurant here are second only to those in New Orleans. If you do want to head outdoors, this year the hotel installed a “high-speed advanced zip line circuit” that stretches more than 2,100 feet and offers a treetop ride across a canyon.

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At Spanish Peaks in Big Sky, Mont., the slopes can feel like an a erthought. This is especially true during warmer months, when the place abounds with outdoor activities, particularly golf, but Spanish Peaks is also no slouch when it comes to wintertime fun. Have a horse-drawn sleigh take you to dinner or, for the ultimate in relaxation, have the kids demonstrate what they learned in the resort’s “Kids in the Kitchen” program. In case that doesn’t work out the way you hoped, the Clubhouse has excellent Alpine cuisine (as well as a 1,300-bo le wine cellar).

In Vermont, the Topnotch Resort and Spa recognizes that the secret to any successful getaway is keeping the “li le people” happy. There’s a Wii-equipped teen center, a tennis academy and a funky hair salon, plus board games, pool tables, pingpong and fireside s’mores. The resort’s Bu ertub Bistro

offers enough sweet cocktails to ensure that the big people can’t complain either.

The U.S. doesn’t hold a monopoly on the lazy ski trip, of course. In addition to the many outlandish a ractions that St. Moritz, the Swiss winter playground of Europe’s elite, has to offer—including the White Turf, a horse race on a frozen lake— there’s Badru ’s Palace Hotel, which oozes old-time romanticism. Its King’s Club, Switzerland’s oldest discotheque, has catered to actual royalty. If you absolutely demand the sensation of crisp mountain air being blasted into your nostrils, the Haus am Bach in Ramsau am Dachstein, Austria, has rides on an Alpine roller coaster. And the Shiga Kogen resort, with more than 100 hotels in Japan’s Joshinetsu Kogen National Park, invites guests to join the snow monkeys frolicking in local hot springs—with nary a ski boot nor snowboard to be seen.

NOVEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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ROAD TRIP

B AY O F B I S C AY

PARTE VIEJA (OLD TOWN) / PLAZA DE LA CONSTITUCIÓN

ISLA DE S A N TA C L A R A

AQUARIUM DE SAN SEBASTIÁN

LA CONCHA

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CATEDRAL DEL BUEN PASTOR SAN SEBASTIÁN

SPAIN

Flexible Flyer Porsche’s split-personality touring sedan takes San Sebastián

BY STEPHAN TALTY

34

MY FIRST OBJECTIVE in driving a Porsche from Madrid to San Sebastián wasn’t to experience German engineering at its finest or to lay tracks at 200 mph with the wind blowing my hair straight back.

It was to impress our doorman, Antonio. As we were free-spirited Americans living in the o en-formal Spanish capital, our casual style and rowdy children had given Antonio doubts as to whether we belonged in his bu oned-down building. I had the idea that gliding up in a white, outrageously gorgeous Panamera, Porsche’s touring car, might change all that. In America, the Panamera would look big.

In Spain, a country of pocket-sized cars, it looked like the Concorde redesigned by Gaudí.

A er I pulled around the block three times, then parked, Antonio came running over, eyes wide.

“Muy bonita, Señor Talty. Es está su coche?”

“Sí, Antonio.”

First objective met. Once the car was loaded with two children and a wife, I got to judge it not as a symbol, but as an automobile. And from the first mile, it killed. Driving it actually did feel like piloting a Concorde, giving the sensation of floating through space while

MAP BY TIM VIENCKOWSKI

M

A

D

R

ID

PLAYA DE LA CONCHA

NOVEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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THE WORLD || Road Trip

enclosed in rich leather and audiophile sound. Which isn’t to say it can’t still mash some pavement—just engage the sport suspension and the car seems to suction itself to the road.

As I piloted it farther north, the barren landscape around Madrid gave way to a vista of white-foamed seas on our le and dramatic rock slopes angling down on our right. The highway signs suddenly changed to Basque. Then, as we came out of a dark tunnel, San Sebastián popped glamorously into view on our le .

If you’re looking for the ideal European seaside town, San Sebastián has things that glossy Monte Carlo or even the seriously nautical Santander, down the coast, just can’t match. It has the stunning natural gem of its bay, La Concha, lined with open-air seafood restaurants and tony shops. But there’s real grit here, too: When we parked the Panamera and strolled

BASQUE AWHILE Offering sheltered, sparkling-clear water in its bay and prime sunbathing on its beaches, San Sebastián has long been a lure for visitors to Spain’s Basque country

toward the world-class aquarium, a huge fishing trawler glided up, just yards away.

The ship’s crane li ed gli ering trays of mackerel onto the dock, where they were quickly wheeled away. San Sebastián isn’t like some Potemkin summer village. It’s real. It works. It sweats and dances.

2012 PORSCHE PANAMERA TURBO The bells and whistles

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Performance: The Panamera features an elegantly split personality.

It’s both a smooth family sedan when you want to haul everyone to the beach, and a rip-snorting German racer that’s heavier than the 911 but just as ferocious.

Perks: The sea seamless seven-speed PDK transmission lets you go from manual to automatic in a split second, while the walnut dashboard and creamy leather make you feel like Gatsby motoring his way out to East Egg (hastily).

We reboarded the Panamera and I guided it toward the old town, Parte Vieja.

Traveling over cobblestone streets that reflected a thousand years of love and war, we passed by the Gothic spire of the soaring Catedral del Buen Pastor San Sebastián and ended up at Plaza de la Constitución, the heart of the city, full of amorous locals evaluating the new crop of tourists. In past centuries this stone courtyard was a bullring; Spaniards would rent rooms in the surrounding hotels and hang over balconies to watch toreadors. And, in true Spanish fashion, criticize their work.

As the sun burned in the sky, I steered the Panamera toward the water. The beaches of San Sebastián—from the people-watching Playa de la Concha to the quieter Ondarreta—are big and broad.

We chose Ondarreta for the castle-making consistency of its sand, and from our beach towels watched sailboats glint in the sparkling water. Two men in black wetsuits holding spearguns emerged, dripping, out of the bay and marched casually down the beach, joining the socialites in their Chanel bikinis. Nobody ba ed an eye.

Night fell, and the sunbathers streamed up the stone ramps, away from the beach, and San Sebastián slowly turned into a diamond necklace. Lights appeared all along the harbor, a loop of white sparks in the black night. We strolled the boardwalk, and did as the Spaniards do: gossiped, bar-hopped and picked freshly made tapas from their silver pla ers. The Panamera may be German, but it delivered us to Spain at its most Spanish: San Sebastián at dusk, swarming with those who eat life.

Before leaving Madrid for New York, STEPHAN TALTY relished his new status in the eyes of his doorman.

NOVEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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FOOD & DRINK

HAMBURG

Lean Cuisine AMONG THE CONSTRUCTION sites and dockyards of Hamburg’s waterfront, the Oberhafen-Kantine crouches under a set of elevated train tracks, sinking noticeably into the ground. Inside, diners steady themselves in creaking wooden booths and dig into dishes of venerable culinary reputation, such as labskaus, a traditional seaman’s meal made of corned beef, red beets, pickled herring and potatoes and topped with a fried egg. Labskaus may lack a certain visual appeal, Kantine cook Stefan Classen admits, but the hearty hash with the subtly fishy tang is sought out by those looking for “a true taste of the Hamburg harbor.” And you’d be hard-pressed to find a more suitable se ing

38

THOMAS SCHWEIGERT

A historic—and famously slanted—eatery on Hamburg’s waterfront gives diners a taste of the city’s culinary heritage BY JIFFER BOURGUIGNON

NOVEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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THE WORLD || Food & Drink

than the Kantine in which to give it a try.

T h e O b e r h a fe n Kantine opened its doors in 1925 on the banks of the Elbe River, in what was then Hamburg’s industrial shipping port, joining other canteens serving coffee and beef patties, or frikadellen, the quintessential dockworker’s breakKIN-DO SPIRIT fast (believed to be Anita Haendel, the inspiration for who helped her father run the modern American the Oberhafenhamburger). In the Kantine early days, the friendly face behind the counter was Anita Haendel, the 12-year-old daughter of owner Hermann Sparr. She quickly became the heart and soul of the Kantine, and worked there until she died in 1997 at the age of 83.

The Kantine’s now-trademark tilt is the result of 86 years of wear and tear, including wartime carpet bombings, railroad construction and regular floods. Today, the building that houses it is one of the few original structures left in an area recently dubbed HafenCity, the site of a major redevelopment effort that will bring glossy hotels and office buildings to the once-scrappy industrial zone.

Preserving the physical structure and the culinary traditions of the Kantine is a top priority for restaurateurs Tim Seidel and Sebastian Libbert, the duo behind some of Hamburg’s hippest eateries, who took over from former chef-owner Thorsten Gillert earlier this year. In addition to the labskaus and frikadellen, the Kantine will continue to feature such classic Hamburg staples as eel soup; matjes, soused North Sea herring served with onions and pickles; pan-fried scholle, white fish accompanied by sliced potatoes fried with cured pork; and weisswurst made from herring.

While Seidel and Libbert did convert the former customs office building next door into an open space, dubbed Zollamt, for exhibitions showcasing the work of young Hamburg artists, not much will change with the Kantine itself. “We didn’t want to make it chic, like our other restaurants,” Seidel says. “Blemishes add character.”

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HOT LINKS One of Curry Queen’s inventive takes on the IndianGerman flavor mash-up known as currywurst

Have It Your Way Curry Queen lets Germans dial up the spice GERMANY’S FAVORITE fast food, currywurst, is synonymous with grab ’n’ go.

So when Curry Queen’s lamb, bison and kobe-style beef sausages dressed in a choice of eight curries—all created by former Michelin-starred chef Ingo Holland—showed up in the esteemed Gault Millau culinary guide last year, foodies’ tongues started wagging.

Whether or not critics agreed with the inclusion, the 3-year-old restaurant, which has a deli outpost elsewhere in Hamburg and a university cafeteria in Karlsruhe, has certainly spiced things up on the German culinary scene.

Its curries ascend from the mild “Purple Curry,” a violet-colored mix of hibiscus, cardamom, cumin and cinnamon; to the “Curry Mumbai,” with jasmine, vanilla and orange peel; to the “Curry Anapurna,” a ho er offering with garlic and turmeric.

At the very top of the piquancy scale, however, is the notorious “King Chili Killer,” a dish so hot that the elderly and anyone younger than 18 are strongly advised against ordering it. Made with the bhut jolokia, an Indian pepper considered one of the ho est in the world, this concoction sent Curry Queen owner and head chef Sascha Basler out dancing in the streets the first time he tried it. He’s probably not the only one, either. “You can tell what kind of curry diners have ordered by the mood at the table,” he says. “The spicier the chili, the more animated the customer!”

NOVEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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HOW IT’S DONE

As if building the world’s tallest skyscraper weren’t enough, Dubai will soon add the tallest, longest, widest arch bridge on earth to its list of superlatives.

Slated to open in 2015, the Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed Crossing will encompass a 12-lane highway, a light rail line and a pedestrian walkway, all while being anchored in shi ing desert sands. Here’s how they’ll do it.

2 “You typically build arch bridges where there’s rock,” notes Parsons Corp. manager Ken Serzan, “because there’s a huge force at both ends that has to be transferred to the ground.” But in Dubai there is only sand, and under that, crumbly sandstone. To build a bridge on such precarious terrain, Parsons’ engineers plan to sink a series of 2-meter-wide concrete pylons along the length of the span.

BY JACQUELINE DETWILER

D

AI

SL

A

3 N

ER

A Line in the Sand

OP

1 The architects FXFowle initially conceived the bridge with the taller of the two arches off-center, mirroring Arabic calligraphy, but engineers were concerned that the shape would put undue stress on the arch (and an already unstable junction of bridge and sand). To fix it, they moved the taller arch slightly back toward the center and added large foundations at each end.

DUBAI

3 Around the time of the bridge proposal, another firm was designing an iconic opera house (think Sydney) on a nearby island. Early plans for the bridge would have resulted in its blocking views of this structure, so FXFowle proposed a solution: Why not build the bridge so that it would frame, even accentuate, the opera house? Problem solved.

1

667 meters

560 meters

2

ILLUSTRATION BY PETER AND MARIA HOEY

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WHAT TO WEAR

SAVANNAH, GA.

MARK MILLER ARCHITECTURE STUDENT, SAVANNAH COLLEGE OF ART AND DESIGN WHAT HE’S WEARING:

Zara blazer, Abercrombie & Fitch bu on-down, Gap jeans, vintage boots * and a Skagen watch PERSONAL STYLE:

“Pre y preppy, but I like to mix it up sometimes with something crazier.”

MOST IMPORTANT STYLE ITEM FOR SAVANNAH:

“A good, versatile blazer.”

PHOTOGRAPH BY CHRISTOPHER SHANE

p046-047_HEM1111_WhatToWear.indd 46

05/10/2011 09:25

*AMBLIN’ MAN STROLL SAVANNAH IN A PAIR OF VINTAGE-STYLE BOOTS CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: TO BOOT NEW YORK SHEARLING-LINED CAPTOE LACE-UP BOOT, $475, SAKS FIFTH AVENUE • ALDEN “INDY” BOOT IN CHROMEXEL LEATHER, $435, EPAULETSHOP.COM AND EPAULET NEW YORK • DOLCE & GABBANA “ADAM BRODY” LACE-UP BOOT, $895, SAKS FIFTH AVENUE PHOTOGRAPH BY DAN MCCOY • PRODUCT STYLING BY WAYMAN BANNERMAN

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • NOVEMBER 2011

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No.332554_Operadora_de_Hoteles_City_Express 1pp.indd 1

05/10/2011 11:21

culture ARTS ME D IA IA

M A R K E T PL ACE AC E

EXHIBIT

COURTESY OF P. STABLE/JEAN PAUL GAULTIER

Haute Topic

WANT MORE? Download our iPad app.

THE BIG TEN

Following on the success of the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Alexander McQueen retrospective, the Dallas Museum of Art is hosting a traveling exhibition of haute couture created over the past 40 years by fashion’s resident pop-culture interpreter (and outfi er) Jean Paul Gaultier. The designer, for his part, is both surprised and fla ered that he’s being featured.

“I didn’t think I was that old,” he says, “but I am taking it as a compliment.”

NOVEMBER 13

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • NOVEMBER 2011

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05/10/2011 09:28

culture

|| The Big Ten TV

WESTWARD EXPANSION After AMC knocked the zombie genre out of the park with “The Walking Dead,” it was only a matter of time before the network tackled the Western. “Hell on Wheels” is the gritty tale of a former Confederate soldier out for revenge.

NOVEMBER 6

4 5

OUT OF THIS WORLD

2

PRINT

ACTIVE VOICE Winner of the National Book Award for 1989’s Spartina, John Casey ey isn’t the type to rest st on his laurels—or anywhere else, for that matter. His new w memoir, Room for Improvement: Notess on a Dozen Lifelong Sports, describes more than half a cenentury of adventures and exertions: long-distance running, cross-countryy skiing, rowing and more. Fortunately, Casey paces his book’s insights at a restful meander.

America’s oldest planetarium is hardly showing its age. Having recently unveiled a $14 million revamp of its theater, Chicago’s Adler Planetarium is flaunting all the cu ing-edge technology therein with its new “Deep Space Adventure”— a dazzling multimedia simulation of interstellar travel that provides a frontrow seat to the drama of the universe.

Spoiler alert: Galaxies collide. ONGOING

NOVEMBER 8

50

THEATER

FAMILY FEUD In the Broadway-bound indie hit Other Desert Cities, starring Rachel Griffiths (“Six Feet Under”), a family learns at Christmas that everyone’s dirty laundry is about to be aired in a memoir. As if the holidays weren’t enough of a production already.

NOVEMBER 3

FILM

Puppet Love Once again, practically every working actor in Hollywood—including Jason Segel, Amy Adams and Chris Cooper—has signed up to get their scenes stolen by the world’s most beloved gang of puppets, in the eagerly awaited The Muppets. This time around, our fuzzy friends are on a quest to save their old movie studio from a greedy oil tycoon.

NOVEMBER 23

COURTESY OF ADLER PLANETARIUM (PLANETARIUM), BY CHRIS LARGE/AMC (“HELL ON WHEELS”), JOE SEER/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM (GRIFFITHS)

MULTIMEDIA

NOVEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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05/10/2011 09:28

© 2011 United Air Lines, Inc. All rights reserved.

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culture

|| The Big Ten

ARCHITECTURE

Slicing through a 19th-century façade like a giant piece of shrapnel, the highly anticipated new wing at the Military History Museum in Dresden, Germany, finally opened last month. While generally dedicated to exhibits on the history of war, the 140-ton wedge of glass, concrete and steel designed by starchitect Daniel Libeskind has as its most prominent feature a viewing deck, meant to be a place of quiet reflection, that looks over the center of a city nearly demolished during World War II. NOW OPEN 52

STUDIO DANIEL LIBESKIND (RENDERINGS)

FORCE MAJEURE

NOVEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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culture

|| The Big Ten

FILM

9

Method Men David Cronenberg, no stranger to bizarre psychological drama, goes straight to the source with A Dangerous Method, which examines the relationships between Carl Jung (Michael Fassbender), Sigmund Freud (Viggo Mortensen, in his third Cronenberg film) and Sabina Spielrein (Keira Knightley), a troubled Russian patient who becomes Jung’s mistress. NOVEMBER 23

10 MUSIC

Walk on the Wild Side For Lulu, one of the most surprising collaborations of the year, if not ever, Lou Reed joined forces with Metallica to record songs wri en for avant-garde theater director Robert Wilson. The project came together a er the metalheads backed Reed at a concert. “We were made for each other,” Reed says. NOVEMBER 1

PRINT

BLUE PERIOD One of America’s greatest est living writers and cultural al critics, Joan Didion first made her name with thee essay “Goodbye to All That,” filled with coolly penetrating ating insights on youth. Now, following her 2005 memoir, moir, The Year of Magical Thinking, king, she offers Blue Nights, a haunting meditation on family, loss and, especially, ally, aging—an inevitability she can’t quite accept.

NOVEMBER 1

54

NOVEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM PHERESMAGAZINE.C COM C OM M

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Holiday COUNTDOWN

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(OMES PRICED FROM THE S TO MORE THAN MILLION s s 4HE7OODLANDS COM 4!+% ) 4/ 7//$,!.$3 0!2+7!9 '/ 7%34 /. 7//$,!.$3 0!2+7!9 4/ 4(% (/-%&).$%2 #%.4%2 *This offer is available only to buyers signing a new home sales contract from 10/1/11 through 12/31/11 that closes by 2/29/12. A registration form must be obtained from the builder’s sales ofďŹ ce prior to signing the new home contract. After the closing, the buyer should notify the HomeďŹ nder Center and make arrangements to pick up their MasterCard. The buyer must pick up their card by 3/31/12. Homes within The Woodlands are constructed and sold by builders not afďŹ liated with The Woodlands Development Company (TWDC) or any of its afďŹ liates, companies or partnerships. Neither TWDC nor any of its afďŹ liated companies or partnerships guarantees or warrants the obligations of, or construction by, such builders. Prices and speciďŹ cations subject to change. Membership fees may be required. 11/11

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04/10/2011 09:38

tech

News (in a) Flash TMI? Four amazing next-generation newsreaders make it easier than ever to cope with information overload BY TOM SAMILJAN

EVEN BEFORE THE days of tweets, Facebook links and iPhone notifications, I was addicted to news. Yet despite my absorbing five daily newspapers and the “Today” show every morning, it was manageable.

Today, it’s nearly impossible to keep up— especially now that I have 50-plus feeds inundating my Google Reader.

Fortunately, spurred by the iPad’s navigability combined with 24/7 Internet connectivity, a new generation of newsreaders has emerged, each promising to filter out the noise and serve up exactly what I want.

Flipboard grabs pictures and text from articles and displays them in a variety of magazine-style layouts, complete with a mix of fonts, sidebars and picture shapes and sizes. You can choose from curated feeds, ranging from food and travel to celebrity gossip and sports, or select feeds à la carte or import them from your Google Reader account. Flipboard is also an ideal way to view Twitter and Facebook feeds, turning a humdrum stream of link-laden updates into pages with newspaper-style layouts, in which each

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p056_HEM1111_Tech.indd 56

“article” is devoted to a news link shared by your friends. Downside: It works only on Apple platforms.

Scrollers, which feature stacks of pictureand-headline feeds grouped according to individual media outlets or subjects, can be easily browsed by swiping from side to side, making it a cinch to scan dozens of stories quickly. The two best scrollers, Pulse and Taptu, work on all Android and iOS devices. Pulse lets users create up to five pages of 12 feeds stacked on top of one another, which is handy for separating different areas of interest. Taptu, on the other hand, opts for a limitless stack of side-scrolling feeds (which I prefer, since it satisfies my need to dive head-first into information overload). It won’t necessarily help you filter information, but it does allow you to take big bites quickly.

Then there’s News 360. What it lacks in gloss it more than makes up for in innovation. When you link your Facebook, Twitter, Instapaper, Read It Later and Evernote accounts, News 360 will learn to unearth stories it thinks you might like.

Users can click on a subject category in the

le rail, and then scroll through an infinite list of the latest topic-specific headlines.

At the top of each story page, News 360 inserts a list of links to every other media outlet’s version of the same story, while significant terms, names and other words are automatically hyperlinked to pop-up definitions. Plus, it remembers your settings across platforms, so the experience and story list will look the same whether you’re viewing it on an iPhone, iPad, Android phone, Android tablet, Windows Phone 7 device or your PC’s web browser.

Which of these will actually help find what you want amid today’s ceaseless information barrage? Well, if you’re looking for a be er way to read Facebook and Twi er feeds, then Flipboard it is; if you spend as much time on your smartphone as on your computer, try News 360; and if you’re an info hound who still wants a bit of serendipity, you’ll likely get the most from Taptu.

After several weeks of news-hounding, tech writer TOM SAMILJAN can’t wait to get back to reading his novel (via e-reader).

ILLUSTRATION BY GLUEKIT

05/10/2011 09:41

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10/10/2011 09:18

Love is in the Air

Amber Kelleher-Andrews CEO

K ELLEHER I NTERNATIONAL Awarded “Top Matchmaker in the World 2010”

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06/05/2011 15:57

bright ideas

Head in the Cloud At 29, Jeff Hammerbacher has been a pitcher, a poet, an autoworker, an investment banker and a Facebook wunderkind who walked away from a fortune. His next project? Curing cancer.

BY PETER COHAN

JEFF HAMMERBACHER is a man of varied interests. The son of an auto assembly-line worker from Kalamazoo, Mich., the 29-year-old has tried his hand at poetry, philosophy, psychology, venture capital, baseball and, yes, automaking. He began his academic career as an English major, but ended up graduating from Harvard with a degree in mathematics.

As a teen he’d been a star pitcher and looked set for a career in the major leagues; he ended up working as an analyst at Bear Stearns. You could call him hopelessly sca ered, or you could say he’s a genius. Frankly, it’s a tough call.

In 2006, with his stint at Bear Stearns but a memory, Hammerbacher was hired by Facebook founder Mark Zuckerberg (fi ingly, in a friend-of-a-friend scenario), and developed a wondrously efficient system to handle the massive amounts of data coursing through the website. Not only was Hammerbacher fast becoming an important player in the rarefied world of Silicon Valley, but he was also on his way to becoming very well-off.

Then, in 2008, he chucked it all.

PHOTOGRAPH BY TOBY BURDITT

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • NOVEMBER 2011

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|| Bright Ideas

Speaking from his Palo Alto office recently, Hammerbacher seems at a loss to explain his decision to quit Facebook (currently valued at upward of $100 billion). “To be honest, I didn’t run through any real calculus,” he says. “I just felt like it was time for something new.”

Qui ing, he jokes, was “an egregious act of wealth destruction,” but he had faith in himself—and as it turned out, the move did little to diminish his reputation in

strategy, breaking impossible tasks into ever-smaller parts until each one became relatively simple. The same approach, he realized, could be applied to everything from telecoms to biotech to financial services. So, with newfound focus, he founded a company of his own: Cloudera.

Before long, Hammerbacher teamed up with another digital high-flyer, Doug Cu ing, who’d developed data processing so ware called Hadoop, which provided the platform Cloudera needed to operate. The company has since a racted $36 million in venture capital, and its founder is again on course for dot-com riches.

You’d assume, then, that this means he’ll be out within the month. But this project is different. While Hammerbacher is loath to portray himself as some sort of modern-day Marie Curie—he refuses to even comment on this aspect of his business—his talents are currently being applied to one of the greatest puzzles of human existence. The basic idea being this: If you can tell a half-billion social networkers which celebrity they most or least resemble, maybe you can do similar things with cancerous cells.

To simplify it a bit, let’s say you’re asked to compare two 100-link chains and find the single link that differs between them.

You could compare the two chains one link at a time and find that the 98th one differs (the serial approach), or you could cut the two chains into 10-link pairs, and give a pair to each of 10 people to search for the link that differs—all at the same time (the parallel approach).

IF YOU CAN TELL A HALFBILLION SOCIAL NETWORKERS WHICH CELEBRITY THEY MOST OR LEAST RESEMBLE, MAYBE YOU CAN DO SIMILAR THINGS WITH CANCEROUS CELLS. the industry. Itamar Rosenn, a symbolicsystems analyst, calls Hammerbacher “scary-smart, a maverick, individualistic, dynamic and a sponge when it comes to new ideas. His interests evolve quickly.”

Shortly a er leaving Facebook, Hammerbacher joined one of Silicon Valley’s top venture capital firms as an “entrepreneur in residence.” A month later, he quit.

His mother, who had once shooed him out of a Michigan auto plant and back to Cambridge a er he’d dropped out of Harvard, couldn’t have been happy. He was starting to look like a man whose interests evolve maybe a li le too quickly.

But he had a plan. In sifting through the trillions of bits of data that had threatened to overwhelm Facebook on a daily basis, he’d adopted a baby-steps

Cloudera uses the parallel approach to help cancer researchers find mutant proteins. The system breaks long DNA chains into chunks that it sends to small computers (instead of expensive and cumbersome supercomputers) that compare the smaller strands. As a result, researchers can find the needle of mutant protein pairs in a haystack of normal ones much faster. And that can help them come up with be er tools to diagnose and, ultimately, treat cancer.

For Hammerbacher, the wandering polymath, Cloudera has provided focus at long last—a mission. He quips, echoing the poet Allen Ginsberg, that “the best minds of my generation are thinking about how to make people click ads.” Chasing a cure for cancer, as it happens, may be just the thing to finally hold his a ention.

PETER COHAN, president of Peter S. Cohan &

Associates, is a former runner-up for the New England Poetry Prize (and a terrible pitcher).

NOVEMBER CROSSWORD ANSWERS

ABOUT-FACE Four other restless brainiacs who quit Facebook Contrary to what you might expect, Facebook’s staggering market value and cultural icon status have not equaled employee retention. In recent years, many of its most veteran (and vested) employees have gone off to pursue new things. Here are just a few.

60

CHRIS HUGHES After cofounding Facebook as a Harvard student, Hughes left in 2007 to oversee social media strategy for the Obama campaign. Then, in 2010, he started Jumo, an “online platform to connect [those] working to change the world.”

DUSTIN MOSKOVITZ Another Facebook cofounder, Moskovitz left in 2008 to launch his own software firm, Asana, meant to be “to your work life what Facebook is to your social life.” He took Justin Rosenstein, a top Facebook engineer/ evangelist, with him.

RUCHI SANGHVI Hired in 2005, Facebook’s first female engineer was key in rolling out the site’s news feed—a hugely controversial feature at the outset, with much of the ire directed at Sanghvi. She left last year to become a freelance adviser and investor.

CHRIS PUTNAM By pulling off a series of playful Facebook hacks, Putnam got more than the firm’s attention—he got a job as a software engineer. After creating Facebook Chat and Facebook Video, though, he left last year, and has yet to reveal his next act.

SEONGJOON CHO/BLOOMBERG/GETTY IMAGES (HUGHES), KIMBERLY WHITE/GETTY IMAGES (MOSKOVITZ), JAMES DUNCAN DAVIDSON/FLICKR (SANGHVI), TOSHIHITO KOBAYASHI (PUTNAM)

culture

NOVEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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12/10/2011 09:30

© 2011 United Air Lines, Inc. All rights reserved.

Arrive in Lagos with a full tank.

Announcing the only daily nonstop service from Houston to Lagos, Nigeria, beginning November 16.

Going to Lagos? Sit back, relax and top off your MileagePlus account. We’re proud to offer new daily nonstop service from Houston on our Boeing 777 aircraft, featuring United’s BusinessFirst® cabins true 180-degree flat-bed seating. So when your work is done, you can rest easy. And if you book between now and January 31, 2012, you’ll earn double bonus MileagePlus miles for your trip. For reservations and information, go to united.com.

Service operated by Continental Airlines, Inc. MileagePlus accrual and redemption is subject to the terms and conditions of MileagePlus.

Lagos to Houston service starts November 17, 2011.

No.00000 Lagos 1pp.indd 1

06/10/2011 09:00

m He h isp at W es er ch

FACE VALUE

de ui G

Just in Time for the Holidays

By Keith W. Strandberg, Hemispheres Watch Editor

Alpina Startimer ($2,595)

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p070-074_HEM1111_Q&A.indd 70

05/10/2011 09:51

NOVEMBER 2011

THE HEMI Q&A

Bill Cosby More than 20 albums, a dozen books and countless accolades have established him as bona ďŹ de comedy royalty. With another book on the way, The Cos looks back on his early inspirations, his Philly childhood and one unfortunate mishap involving a whole lot of cologne.

BY DAVID CARR ILLUSTRATION BY JEFFREY DECOSTER

71

p070-074_HEM1111_Q&A.indd 71

05/10/2011 09:51

THE HEMI Q&A: Bill Cosby

72

HEMISPHERES: When you were getting ready for your

date with Bernadette, you didn’t just splash on a little bit of cologne—you took the whole bottle, dumped it in the tub and soaked in it.

COSBY: My dad had this bo le of Canoe that was unopened and I thought that’s what you did with it.

HEMISPHERES: But that was the least of your

problems. You also had to get past her dad, who made it clear that, should anything happen, he knew exactly where you lived.

COSBY: Whether it was a father or a mother, when you went to visit a girl, you came to that gauntlet. It happened at my house as well.

HEMISPHERES: The book is full of such vivid recollec-

tions of things that happened when you were a kid. Do you have some kind of superhuman memory?

COSBY: When I started out, we didn’t have all the television and computers that we have now. What you saw is what you remembered. I developed a style early on: from the mind, to the page, to the stage and back to the page. That has not changed. I don’t think it has anything to do with photographic memory; I think it has to do with a kid who loved comedy and tried to remember it all and talk about it.

HEMISPHERES: Why comedy?

COSBY: Well, back then, if you were black and wanted to be in the entertainment business,

GILBERT CARRASQUILLO/GETTY IMAGES (TEMPLE); BETTMANN/CORBIS (COSBY)

ENTERTAINMENT FIGURES, generally speaking, have problems with punctuality. Not so Bill Cosby. Two minutes before we were scheduled to call him about his new book, the phone rang. But what was expected to be a publicist apologetically postponing the interview turned out to be The Cos himself, announcing, in his best voice-of-God intonation, “You. Have.

Two. Minutes. To. Call. Cosby.”

Thus prompted, we dove right into I Didn’t Ask to Be Born (But I’m Glad I Was), Cosby’s new book, out this month.

It would take a separate book just to enumerate the man’s accomplishments, but suffice it to say Cosby has led a full life. A er ge ing his start in standup, he broke through as the first African-American co-star of a television series in “I Spy,” winning three consecutive Emmys. “Fat Albert and the Cosby Kids,” which Cosby created and produced, animated tales from his upbringing in Philadelphia and won an Emmy as well. His television work culminated in “The Cosby Show,” a sitcom that set aside racial stereotypes and found the comedy common to all families. The Huxtables and their day-to-day triumphs and travails spawned many imitators, as well as a spinoff (“A Different World”), and reigned as the No. 1 show for five years in a row. In between all that, and a whole lot of Jell-O commercials, Cosby found time to make more than 20 comedy albums and write a dozen books, many of which sprang from his live shows, which he continues to perform.

Talking to Cosby, 74, is less a ma er of finding things to discuss than it is of struggling to keep up as he riffs in the manner of his jazz heroes. (Let’s just say that in the conceit of the Q&A, there was more A than Q.) But we figured a good place to start would be his ill-fated first date, with the “fine” Bernade e Johnson, recounted in the book to great effect.

A GOOD COS From left, Bill Cosby at Temple University’s commencement this year; working it onstage at Radio City in 1986

NOVEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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THE HEMI Q&A: Bill Cosby you didn’t run away to the circus. So I began studying comedy, listening to Jack Benny. I knew I loved it, I knew I loved to laugh with these people, and I wanted to retain some of the things they said and somehow learn to do it myself.

THEO! Cosby, playing Dr. Heathcliff Huxtable on “The Cosby Show,” is not buying it

HEMISPHERES: But you ended up in the

Navy before you got into comedy, right?

“I saw a fellow talking to friends in a restaurant. He wasn’t performing, and people were just having a ball laughing.

I said, ‘That’s what I want to be.’”

HEMISPHERES: Like Chris Rock.

HEMISPHERES: And college added

literature to your bag of comedic tricks.

COSBY: When you read Mark Twain, you begin to view books as something to be enjoyed, something you don’t have to just plow through. I was assigned a composition about doing something for the first time, and I decided to write about the first tooth I’d ever pulled. And that’s where my approach to humor started to come to me, the very close observation of things that I knew. It was a lot like radio in those days. Radio was like listening to books. My humor is like listening to “The Lone Ranger” on the radio. You have to guide the action by what you say.

HEMISPHERES: The approach you

ultimately hit on was pretty novel. It ended up influencing some of the greats who followed you.

COSBY: I’m a comedian. There are some comedians who really don’t want to be known as just the guy who’s on the stage telling jokes; they want to be thought of as someone deeper than that.

74

borrow money from you and they don’t pay you back, you can’t fire them or tell them to go away.

COSBY: Or like Flip Wilson—Flip would come off the stage and he was almost insular. Richard Pryor would be offstage a er his stories and become very so and quiet. George Carlin was sort of humble in the same way.

COSBY: That’s right. You are stuck with them and they are stuck with you.

You’re all in the same lifeboat. You might as well work together.

HEMISPHERES: What about Cosby?

HEMISPHERES: I’ve always thought that

COSBY: I’m the same no ma er where I am. I have people meet me and say to me, “You’re the same as when you’re onstage. That’s really you up there.”

HEMISPHERES: So, no persona?

COSBY: I don’t want one. My performing style came to me when I saw a fellow talking to friends in a restaurant. He wasn’t performing, and people were just having a ball laughing with and at him.

I said, “That’s what I want to be—I want to be a friend.”

HEMISPHERES: In the book, you point out

that your children are not your friends, because you can’t get rid of them. If they

the thing that made your stuff work so well through the years was this ability you have to make people see each other in a different light.

COSBY: I’ve had the Jackie Robinson role put on me, but I’m not a hero. The only thing I really adhere to from my learning is not to embarrass my race, to make a point of sounding educated and to respond to negative behavior toward my color. Other than that, my job is to come to your town and hurt your face. To make you laugh so much, your face hurts.

As a kid, New York Times media columnist DAVID CARR used to walk around saying, “Hey, hey, hey!” like he meant it.

JACQUES M. CHENET/CORBIS

COSBY: I didn’t join the Navy to see the world. I was just trying to get off my block. I was 19 and I had mismanaged my life to the point where all the guys I played basketball and baseball with, and crashed parties with, were gone. There was no one le except li le kids and old people, and I couldn’t play with either of them. The children complained that I was cheating when I played ball with them, and the old people just drank. I didn’t drink, so I went down and joined the Navy. I had no high school diploma, I was stuck in the 11th grade and, judging by the way I was studying, which is to say not at all, I was on track to graduate at about age 23. But I got my GED in the Navy, and when I got out I was accepted by Temple University, which made me feel like the luckiest 23-year-old in the world.

NOVEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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07/10/2011 10:10

the fan

Rare Breed A look inside the heart-pounding, highstakes run-up to one of horse racing’s most storied events

BY MICHAEL KAPLAN

76

NOVEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

p076-078_HEM1111_TheFan.indd 76

ON A BEAUTIFUL SUNDAY AFTERNOON at Monmouth Park on the northern Jersey Shore, the be ing windows absorb a crush of horse racing fanatics while, down below, jockeys steer thoroughbreds toward their stalls at the starting gate. As post time nears for the day’s big race, the Resorts Haskell Invitational, a tension se les along the trackside seats, where pastel-suited owners and their posses sit, painfully aware of the fact that they have more on the line in the next two minutes than the rest of the be ors at the track combined.

That the race’s robust $1 million prize is merely a secondary draw for thoroughbred owners is telling. Today’s winner also snags an automatic berth in the Breeders’ Cup Classic, which takes place this month and ranks among the world’s most prestigious races. A horse that finishes first in the Breeders’ is instantly imbued with so much credibility and celebrity that his breeding revenues typically eclipse the race money, and the owner becomes, as one past winner put it, “the equivalent of a rock star.” That the 2011 Breeders’ Cup takes place at Churchill Downs in Louisville, Ky., sacred ground for horsemen, only adds to the cachet.

The anticipation can be grueling. “I woke up nervous, and it’s ge ing more intense,” Lori Hall says, a couple of hours before the big race. Along with her husband, George, she owns Ruler on Ice, winner of this year’s Belmont Stakes and a horse to watch in today’s event. Hall looks racetrack-stunning in a pink dress and a strawberry shortcake of a hat wrapped up in a complex arrangement of ribbon. She has a full entourage of friends and family in tow. “If our horse finishes first,” she says, eyeing the group, “I can only imagine what the winner’s circle will look like. All I can say is that Monmouth might need to bend the

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05/10/2011 09:53

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|| The Fan

rules a li le bit in terms of how many people are allowed down there.”

Besides Ruler on Ice, there are two horses competing today that have strong shots at acing the Haskell, according to insiders: Preakness Stakes champ Shackleford, and Coil, a horse that has won three out of the four races he’s run. At the Turf Club, a semiprivate enclave with an expansive buffet and full bar, Peter Rotondo, a retired foreign-exchange trader draped in seersucker and buried in a pile of heavily notated racing forms, announces, “I’m going with Ruler on Ice. He’s been training well. Monmouth is the track where he’s stabled. He likes this track and he has something of a home-court advantage.”

Considering Rotondo’s record, it’s no surprise that his opinions have weight: He correctly picked Ruler on Ice to win at Belmont, and he called the last winner of the Kentucky Derby. “I’ve been handicapping since I was 8 years old,” he says. “And in the end you’re still making an educated guess. You’re reliant on a horse! He can’t tell you whether or not he has a headache and doesn’t feel like racing today!”

THE BREEDERS’ CUP, which launched in 1984, was not, as it happens, created solely out of love of the sport. In the early ’80s, breeder John Gaines publicized the fact that he and his colleagues made more money in breeding than in racing. But to get the big bucks as breeders, they needed big wins on the track. In order to increase the visibility of top thoroughbreds, Gaines devised a string of races that would allow all the best horses to compete within their specific categories, concluding with the Breeders’ Cup Classic. “The Breeders’ Cup Classic is the richest race in North America,” says Breeders’ Cup senior vice

DOWN THE STRETCH Coil, second from right, with jockey Martin Garcia, just before launching into his winning stride during the Resorts Haskell Invitational at Monmouth Park in Oceanport, N.J.

president Carter Carnegie. “It is a determining factor in terms of greatness for a horse. It’s the difference between a horse being worth $20,000 for [each session of] breeding and being worth $45,000.” And the Classic’s $5 million purse doesn’t hurt.

Karl Watson, co-owner of Coil, is among those hoping to reproduce past Breeders’ Cup experiences. In 2007 and 2008, his horse Midnight Lute won the sprint. As for today, “We’re optimistic,” he says, standing outside his private box, where boosters lunch on crab cakes. “But this is a day of firsts. Coil is running on dirt for the first time and running without blinkers for the first time. Bob [celebrity thoroughbred trainer Bob Baffert] is trying to get him to relax a li le bit.” Taking a breath and smiling tightly, Watson, who supports his horse habit with a string of car dealerships, adds, “Coil is facing some major competition. He really needs to step it up this a ernoon.”

Down below, the snowy-haired Baffert, pulling off a bumblebee-yellow necktie/ pocket-square ensemble with élan, is oozing confidence as he makes his way to the stables where Coil needs to be prepped.

“The Breeders’ Cup is special,” he says.

“Every great trainer and every great horse is there. You want to be there and you want

HORSEPLAY A glance back at the past three Breeders’ Cup Classics

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2008

2009

2010

Raven’s Pass becomes the fifth European horse to win a Classic since 1999. In the process, he sets a record for Santa Anita Park, the venue for the Breeders’ Cup that year.

Zenyatta wins the race as the first filly to ace the Classic. Her performance is so stunning that star trainer Bob Baffert claims to not mind that his own horse lost in the wake of the history-making run.

Race fans were pulling for a repeat performance from Zenyatta, who had logged 19 wins in a row before the 2010 Classic. Heartbreakingly, she’s beaten by a proverbial nose.

to be there big.” That being said, he likes his chances. “With Coil,” he says, “I’ve got them over a barrel.”

FANS BEGIN CHEERING as soon as the starting gate flies open and eight horses thunder down the opening stretch. Coil gets a bad jump and is having a hard time keeping up with the competition, appearing to be out for a morning constitutional while the other beasts run for all they’re worth. Shackleford threatens to take the lead at the half-mile point, coming up from the outside, and Ruler on Ice holds back in fi h place.

Then, Shackleford bursts into the lead, Ruler on Ice steps up to second and, suddenly, at that moment, coming around on the outside, Coil locks in. He starts making up for lost time. Storming down the middle of the track, taking the normally inadvisable long way, he bears down. In no time, he’s chewing up the other horses.

Then he’s past them. Then, amazingly, he wins the race. Winners in the stands are jumping up and down, screaming, hugging one another.

It was a nail-biter for fans, but it was a heart-stopper for Karl Watson and Coil’s other owners. A er they celebrate in the winner’s circle, Watson wonders aloud why Coil got such an unpromising start. “I didn’t know what to think,” he says, accepting a glass of champagne. “I had never seen him running so slow.” Friends and reporters press in, wanting to hear what he has to say. He obliges them, but you can see that his mind is already somewhere else—at Churchill Downs in November, most likely, where he hopes to see Coil make one more run for glory. Anyway, he shrugs about the day’s drama, waving his champagne, “that’s a nice thing about owning a racehorse. It keeps life interesting.”

Hemispheres contributing writer MICHAEL KAPLAN has yet to leave the track a winner.

JULIO CORTEZ/ASSOCIATED PRESS (RACE), CHERYL ANN QUIGLEY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM (TROPHY)

culture

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â&#x20AC;ŚMake them count

Choosing the right style of shoes can make the outďŹ t, but choosing the right style of breast reconstruction procedure can make you.

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NOVEMBER FEATURES

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TOIL AND TROUBLE

BEST BUYS

How one renegade British stage company’s hair-raisingly gonzo production of Macbeth (starring you) is changing the way the world thinks of theater.

Just in time for the holidays, we asked experts from the worlds of sports, technology, design, toys and food to share their picks for the best gifts this season.

THREE PERFECT DAYS: MEXICO CITY

BY JENNA SCHERER PHOTOGRAPHS BY SARAH WILMER

BY JACQUELINE DETWILER PHOTOGRAPHS BY LISA SHIN

ILLUSTRATION BY CHRISTINE BERRIE

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With deep culture, world-class food and boundless energy, Mexico’s capital is hands-down one of the most fascinating places on earth.

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No seats, no stage, no intermission,

scap no escape.

How one renegade British stage troupe

and its wild production of Macbeth

might just save theater.

By Jenna Scherer photographs By sarah wilmer

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM â&#x20AC;˘ NOVEMBER 2011

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I HAD TO PRESS MYSELF FLAT AGAINST THE WALL TO KEEP THE HOTEL CLERK FROM KICKING ME. HE AND A GUEST—A GLAMOROUS WOMAN IN A TRAVELING COAT—WERE WRESTLING ON THE RECEPTION DESK, FIGHTING OVER A SET OF ROOM KEYS. I PROBABLY HAD NO BUSINESS BEING BACK THERE IN THE FIRST PLACE, BUT NOBODY HAD TRIED TO STOP ME—OR, IF THEY HAD, I HADN’T NOTICED. I WAS TOO BUSY THINKING ABOUT THE SINISTER MAN I’D ENCOUNTERED A FEW MINUTES EARLIER, WASHING HIS HANDS IN A BATHTUB. A LITTLE LATER, I FOUND MYSELF WANDERING THROUGH A CEMETERY, FAIRLY CONFIDENT THAT THE SHAPES LOOMING IN THE DARKNESS WERE JUST STATUES—UNTIL ONE OF THEM MOVED. IT WAS A MAN, A HULKING FIGURE WEARING AN APRON, FUMBLING IN THE SOIL. This may sound like a dream brought on by bad seafood, but it’s not. It’s Sleep No More: a show that takes your preconceptions about what a night at the theater should entail and completely sha ers them. The work of pioneering British company Punchdrunk, Sleep No More is a sprawling, immersive performance piece that’s part Shakespeare, part vintage Hitchcock and part live-action video game.

The show takes place in a renovated warehouse in New York’s Chelsea district. It’s a disconcertingly large venue, spread out over six floors and more than 100 rooms. Audience members—if that’s what you can call them—are invited not only to watch the events unfolding in the make-believe McKi rick Hotel, but also to throw themselves right into the thick of it all.

Here’s how it works: Upon entering the set, you are led through a dimly lit maze into a Prohibition-era bar, complete with a lounge singer crooning the standards. A er a drink or two, a na ily dressed but nonetheless ominous man hands you a white beaked mask, which you’re required to wear for the duration of the show. From there, you’re ushered into an elevator, whose operator gives you the lowdown: no talking, don’t touch the actors, head back to the bar if you need a break. The elevator lurches to a halt and he adds, “Fortune favors the bold.” The door opens to a misty darkness. Showtime.

The story loosely follows the plotline of Macbeth, Shakespeare’s twisted tragedy, with a bit of Hitchcock’s Rebecca thrown in. But that’s all I can tell you for sure, because the rest is up to you. No two playgoers’ experiences are ever the same. You may spend the evening wandering deserted rooms, picking through le ers, photographs and bits of macabre detritus. You may choose to follow a specific character all evening, chasing him from floor to floor, or to abandon that character for another one halfway through. You’ll be privy to very intimate moments. If you’re lucky, you might even get yanked into a secret room by one of the characters for a private tête-à-tête. The point is, it’s up to you. You shape your own WANT MORE? For cast interviews narrative according to where you go and other behind-the-scenes and what you do. It’s an entertaining, extras, download our iPad app.

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surprising and invigorating experience.

Punchdrunk has been pu ing on shows like this since 2000, when a 22-year-old drama school graduate named Felix Barre first founded the company. Its specialty is adapting dark, reality-bending tales, ranging from Edgar Allan Poe’s The Masque of the Red Death to Peter Weiss’ Marat/Sade, and the troupe stages its work in derelict tunnels and abandoned buildings, with the only constant being that the audience is flung headlong into the action. The shows sell out wherever they go, and the response has been so positive as to appear, at times, a bit unhinged. “All I can say is ‘WOW.’ I don’t believe that I’ve ever experienced anything remotely like this,” gushed a woman on a Broadway World discussion forum. “I can’t stop thinking about it.”

THE PAST DECADE or so has not been kind to traditional stage productions.

People are too busy poking, tweeting and texting to sit still in a theater for two hours.

The public demands brevity, interactivity or at the very least a pair of 3-D goggles. The form has tried to update itself, but with the exception of a few brilliant outliers (The Book of Mormon, for instance), Broadway seems to have resigned itself to its fate.

A endance is down, ticket prices are up and there’s li le relief on the horizon.

Punchdrunk, on the other hand, flourishes, owing its success in part to the fact that it anticipated the tastes of a public saturated with media and bogged down by the demands of the digital age. Its shows provide the engagement of social networking, the visceral jolt of a Hollywood thriller, the blood-lurch of an amusement park ride. “Our whole desire is to put an audience at the heart of the action,” Barre says. “You’re completely empowered to make any decision you want to. It’s the opposite state to conventional theater: that amazing danger that’s inherent within giving the audience a choice.”

Conceived and directed by Barrett and choreographer Maxine Doyle, the New York production of Sleep No More represents Punchdrunk’s most ambitious effort to date. The show opened in 2003 as a modest 10-person production in a former Victorian school in London. Six years later,

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SOUND AND FURY Punchdrunk founder Felix Barrett, pictured, is redefining theater as we know it

the

“We fight against sitting there that only HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • NOVEMBER 2011

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an expanded version came to another shuttered schoolhouse, this one in Brookline, Mass.

Produced with Harvard Square’s highbrow American Repertory Theater, it was Punchdrunk’s first show outside the U.K. Since Sleep No More hit New York, it’s been looking poised to make the leap from cult phenomenon to full-on sensation—in part because of its blockbuster production values and in part because, well, this is New York.

“We always wanted to do a show in New York,” Barre says. “It’s such a vibrant, passionate theater city. We were really excited about that audience and how they might hurl themselves into the work.”

YOU COULD ARGUE that the biggest star of Sleep No More’s New York run is the venue.

Barre is drawn to spaces that reinforce the mood of a piece, and the warehouse on West 27th Street could have been purpose-built for his needs. “I only saw it for an hour, but I knew it was the right place. It was love at first sight,” he says. “It’s got that feeling of excess and decay, perfect for the power-hungry, obsessive elements of the storyline.”

Another important element of Barre ’s productions is music. The film noir soundtracks of the 1940s and the gilded tunes of the swing era were an early inspiration for this show,

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KEY SCENES Sleep No Moreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Nicholas Bruder, playing Macbeth, with Kelly Bartnik; opposite page, Tori Sparks as Lady Macbeth, with Bruder (top) and Bartnik (below)

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and, other than the occasional gasp, groan or mu ered verse, their eerie strains are pre y much the only sound you’ll hear.

Punchdrunk aims for a physical, sensory style closer to interpretive dance than to scripted theater. Rather than expressing anguish or desire through words, performers crawl up walls, clamber onto furniture, wrestle on pool tables or suddenly take off at a dead run.

Sleep No More plays with all the senses: Lady Macduff ’s neglected apartment smells like ro ing food, and the air in the graveyard is tangibly cool and damp. You’re invited to rifle through drawers, steal a discarded piece of candy, pick up the phone to see if there’s anyone on the other end (sometimes there is). Barre ’s approach to theater means no lazing around or stepping back. The harder you work at Sleep No More, the more you’ll get out of it. “We fight against passive obedience, the formulaic si ing there quietly in a theater seat that only stimulates your brain,” he says. “If the body is stimulated as well, if you have to actually make decisions and have ownership, the repercussions fall on your shoulders.”

Some people balk at this kind of participation, but most throw themselves into the experience. A few go a li le overboard. Conor Doyle, who plays several roles and is also the show’s assistant choreographer, once saw a woman a empt to stop a character giving another a glass of poison. “She’d completely forgo en that it was a show and it was fake,” he says. “She cared about the character in that moment. She genuinely wanted to save her.” Barre , for his part, recalls a night when a man made for an open coffin, lay down inside it and slept through the entire show.

“People have done some really amazing things. I look at them and I think, Wow, you’re doing that right now! OK,” says Tori Sparks, who plays Lady Macbeth. “It’s hard for a lot of people, to just be shot off into the dark and le to their own devices. I think that your reaction is very telling of who you are as a person.”

PUNCHDRUNK ISN’T THE only company intent on demolishing traditional boundaries between audience and actor. The trend’s epicenter is in the U.K., where experimental outfits like Il Pixo Rosso, Belt Up Theatre and Shunt employ gimmicks such as video goggles, Victorian parlor games and wild goose chases beneath London Bridge. In the U.S., the American Repertory Theater’s The Donkey Show, a disco adaptation of A Midsummer Night’s Dream, is performed on and around a sweaty dance floor.

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Few, though, have generated the kind of enthusiasm that’s greeted Sleep No More.

Celebs including Trey Parker, Kevin Spacey and Amy Adams have slipped behind the mask. The show has seen its run extended over and over since opening in March, and continues to sell out. There are online communities devoted to it, whose members, in an a empt to get to the heart of the show’s narrative, spend hours piecing together the fragments of their experiences.

While Barre is quick to point out that Punchdrunk’s productions aren’t meant to supersede the traditional model of stage, actors and viewers in seats— “Conventional theater has its place, and I love it,” he says—he does seem intent on further deconstructing the form. This fall will see the launch of Punchdrunk Travel: Participants arrive at an airport, collect plane tickets and a bundle from a locker, and fly off to a mystery venue for three days. “As soon as you leave the airport, you’re inside the show,” he says. “It’s going to be completely global.”

Of course, secrecy being paramount to Punchdrunk’s mystique, Barre is loath to divulge any details on his forthcoming travel agency or the inevitable follow-up to Sleep No More—though he and his company are most assuredly up to something.

“I can’t tell you when or where,” he says.

“But it’s coming.”

Boston-based drama critic JENNA SCHERER has to remind herself not to follow random strangers around actual hotels.

SARA KRULWICH/THE NEW YORK TIMES/REDUX

DANSE MACABRE The cast of Sleep No More has a ball

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06/10/2011 08:59

CAUGHT DAD TRYING TO REGIFT THAT CROQUET SET YOU GAVE HIM LAST YEAR? TAKE HEART. OUR HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE IS FULL OF EXPERT PICKS—COVERING GADGETS,, DÉCOR, COR, TOYS AND MORE—THAT EVERYONE ON YOUR LIST (AND MAYBE YOU, TOO) IS GUARANTEED TO LOVE

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • NOVEMBER 2011

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GIFT GUIDE: ELECTRONICS

EXPERT PICK PRECIOUS METAL

ALL PROP STYLING: MEGUMI EMOTO

You can bet that most of what your college freshman will be doing with her brand-new computer is Googling and writing papers, so there’s no better person to ask what netbook to give her than Brian Rakowski, vice president of product management for Google Chrome. He recommends the new Samsung Series 5 Chromebook. “It’s incredibly simple to set up and it maintains itself, so you won’t end up with a second job as tech support for the lucky person you give it to,” he says. $430 / samsung.com

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FRESH AIR Fast (and silver) as a speeding bullet and light enough to leap small desk obstacles in a single bound, Apple’s latest entry-level notebook, the amazing MacBook Air, which boasts Intel Core i5 and i7 processors, should be on the wish list of anyone who’s ever had to lug a heavy laptop around while on the road. $999 / store.apple.com

TAKE YOUR BEST SHOT If you’re ready to get into the DSLR pool but think you’d rather wade in than do a cannonball off the diving board, ask for the Canon Rebel T3 Red 18-55mm IS II kit.

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OF SOUND MIND Collecting 13,000 international radio stations, all your personal songs and an intelligent music feature à la Pandora and playing everything on listening stations throughout your house, Bang & Olufsen’s Beosound 5 Encore might be the most comprehensive home music setup short of a house band. $3,350 / bang-olufsen.com

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • NOVEMBER 2011

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GIFT GUIDE: DÉCOR

BEST VASE SCENARIO Brilliant, blue and big enough for long-stemmed roses, Weego Home’s weathered Siri vases look like larger versions of midcentury modern bud vases—lending them sufficient presence to hold their own amid any vast open space (table, windowsill, mantel) in your home. $68, $84 / weegohome.com

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GREEN LIGHT Inspired by the vein networks that carry water through plants, Nervous System’s Hyphae lamps make lacy patterns on walls and serious impressions on dinner guests. Each lamp is from a limited edition of one of 24 designs, so they’re as unique as plants themselves. $600 / n-e-r-v-o-u-s.com

A WORLD APART Butterflies, monsters, flowers and quotes about life and travel adorn artist Wendy Gold’s antique globes, making them more useful for artistic inspiration than actual exploration.

For instance, did you know there was a giant sea monster in the middle of the Pacific? Well, you do now. $350 / artonglobes.com

NICE THROW Bright colors are great if you have white walls or need to upstage the carousel in your living room.

For the rest of us, Missoni muted its signature zigzag pattern in the autumnal Morli blanket, which practically begs you to curl up under it with a cup of cocoa and a book. $455 / missoni.com

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EXPERT PICK COCKTAILS, DRESSED British fashion designer Paul Smith recently teamed up with Danish design powerhouse Stelton to revamp the classic Arne Jacobsen Cocktail set, engraving cursive quotes like “Take pleasure seriously” and “Start something new” on the shiny black surfaces.

Relative Space designer Tyler Greenberg loves the set for its wistfulness and whimsy. “Sometimes we must eschew formality for a few unbridled dreams,” he says. $1,953 / paulsmith.co.uk

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GIFT GUIDE: SPORTS & ADVENTURE

EXPERT PICK IN THE BAG What does a golf pro covet for the holidays? Holly Juergens, manager of the Pebble Beach Golf Links Pro Shop, wants a Callaway Hyper-Lite 4.0 golf bag. “It’s functional and sharp, has extra padding and fantastic balance and weighs only 4 pounds,” she says. It also has a foam hip pad and a velourlined valuables pocket. Now, if only your approaches could look as stylish and effortless as you do when you’re strolling toward the green. $170 / callawaygolf.com

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HANGING BY A THREAD The big problem with hammocks— inasmuch as there is one—is that they don’t magically appear when you need them. Until that fateful day you happen upon a grove of them right at nap time, you’ll have to settle for the tie-anywhere Kammok. $99 ($29 for straps) / kammok.com

WHAT A RACKET Whether you’re a tennis novice or Rafael Nadal himself, you can still benefit from a larger sweet spot.

That’s the idea behind Prince’s new EXO3 Tour Team 100 racket, which has a hitting area the size of a pony.

OK, not really. But it is big. $189 / princetennis.com

BOARD OF CORRECTIONS Ah, the age-old surf dilemma: It’s easier to catch a wave on a long board, but more fun to ride it on a short board. Not so with the Meyerhoffer 2, a long board with a short-board profile cut into the side.

Voilà: easy waves and tight turns. $895 / surfindustries.com

EASY RIDER The blackout matte finish on Trek’s 9th District city cruiser makes it look like the kind of bike Batman might ride if the Batmobile were in the shop.

Plus, it has Bontrager all-weather tires and a nine-speed drivetrain.

Now all you need is a bike cave. $750 / trekbikes.com

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WORTH ITS SALT There are few things that wouldn’t look fancier when placed atop this brick of Himalayan pink salt. It not only works as a serving dish, but also subtly cures the edges of whatever you put on it, from fruit to sushi. Just keep it away from your horse. $62 / atthemeadow.com

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TO YOUR HEALTH A bottle of wine doesn’t usually reveal much about the giver beyond his tastes. That’s not true of this 92-point Napa cabernet, as 100 percent of its purchase price is donated to cardiovascular research. Don’t you look nice? $95 / ehlersestate.com

ON A ROLL Anthropologie’s rolling pin and dish are so adorable, you might be tempted to relegate them to the “look but don’t bake” part of your cupboard.

Don’t! The classic Americana pattern becomes doubly charming when dusted with a layer of flour. $18 (pin), $36 (dish) / anthropologie.com

CULTURE CLUB The Cheese for the Connoisseur package from legendary NYC fromager Murray’s Cheese comes with soft Cremont, nutty Austrian Hittisau, Fromage de Meaux and other varieties, plus gourmet extras like pickled figs. Watch your fingers. $84 / gilttaste.com

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GIFT GUIDE: FOOD & DRINK

EXPERT PICK TASTE MAKER Former “Top Chef” contestant Sam Talbot, executive chef of Surf Lodge in Montauk, N.Y., and Imperial No. 9 in New York City, is a huge fan of PolyScience’s The Smoking Gun, a handheld cool-smoker that can add smoke flavor to everything from oysters to butter. “The other day I had these berries picked fresh in Amagansett. I smoked them with a touch of cinnamon, Truvia and olive oil,” he says. “They were amazing.” $125 / cuisinetechnology.com

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GIFT GUIDE: TOYS

EXPERT PICK NOTEWORTHY Children’s toys, like children’s movies, require a certain degree of absurdity to hold the attention of adults as well as that of their target audience. These adorably ridiculous, award-winning Sing-ama-jigs Duets, which open their mouths to belt out notes like opera singers, have exactly that. “They’re cute monsters that sing and make strange sounds when you squeeze them,” says Barry Kudrowitz, toy designer and University of Minnesota assistant professor of product design. “Just like me!” $19 / thesingamajigs.com

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ALL DOLLED UP What better way to learn the intricacies of modern home décor than with Brinca Dada’s contemporary Dylan dollhouse? Pick one up, and in no time at all, your kids will be walking into rooms and saying things like “Great space!” $149 / brincadada.com

UP TO SPEED When your own kids are tearing around the living room on Acorn’s retro silver speedster, your father won’t be able to yell, “Slow down!

When I was your age, we didn’t have speedy-lookin’ racers like that!”

Because, honestly, they probably did. $110 / acorntoyshop.com

BLOCK PARTY Like a combination of tangrams, Legos and origami but with a little more edge, Paper Punk building blocks are perfect for your budding Claes Oldenburg. Just keep an eye on his mohawk—most kindergarten teachers frown on those. $19 / paperpunk.com

BRIGHT LIGHTS, LITTLE CITY Kids are always building cities out of building blocks, so why not give them a leg up with a prefabricated version of New York City or Tokyo from Muji? That should give them plenty of time to focus on building tiny bankers, taxi cabs and pigeons. $14 / muji.us

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One of the world’s biggest cities is bursting at the seams with energy, culture, great food and enough surreality to keep it endlessly fascinating

BY JOE KEOHANE PHOTOGRAPHS

BY HOLLY WILMETH

THREE PERFECT DAYS

MEXICO CITY GOOD GOURD Lifting the lid on an artful dish (baby corn in coffee mayonnaise) at upscale eatery Pujol; opposite, the Catedral Metropolitana

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105 DAY ONE

Visiting Frida Kahlo

107 DAY TWO

Communing with the Aztecs

113 DAY THREE

When in Roma ...

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THREE PERFECT DAYS MEXICO CITY

MEXICO CITY, a.k.a. “El Monstruo.” The

is booming. Real estate prices are rising; the film, French poet André Breton called it the most publishing and music industries are among the surreal place on earth, while writer Salvador strongest in the Spanish-speaking world; and Novo said you don’t live in Mexico City, you a new mayoral administration has launched a merely practice it. For generations, writers, slew of programs to cut smog, improve mass wanderers and musicians have flocked here transit and enhance public safety, making it from around the world, drawn by the city’s easier to enjoy the city’s 160 world-class musemad improvisational energy and deep culture, ums, countless acres of beautiful parks and its freewheeling lifestyle and seeming lack of some of the best food going. any organizing principle.

An endlessly surprising, utterly fascinatFormerly Tenochtitlan, the Aztec capital, Mex- ing mix of the sublime and the surreal, D.F. ico City still suffers from a reputation earned is beloved by its people, known as Chilangos. in the later years of the past century, but the Come here and they’ll squander no opportunity city known by the roughly 20 million to tell you about it, argue about it, sing WANT MORE? residents in its metro area as “D.F.,” for its praises. And here’s the thing: A er Download our iPad app.

Distrito Federal (akin to D.C. in the U.S.), a few days, you will too.

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DAY ONE | It’s Saturday morning, and the push of a bu on on the bedside console in your corner suite at Las Alcobas (1), a stylish new hotel in the wealthy Polanco neighborhood, opens the curtains, revealing, through the gracefully curved window, an uncharacteristically quiet street below.

You have the front desk call you a taxi. By the time you get to the lobby—more like the front hall of a grand residence than a hotel foyer—the car is waiting to take you a few miles south to Coyoacán.

Step out at the Frida Kahlo Museum (2), in the Casa Azul, the former home of painter and global cultural icon Frida Kahlo, where she learned to paint while bedridden after an accident and where she later lived with her equally iconic husband, Diego Rivera (and, for a time, an exiled Trotsky). The rambling home

LOS COLORES DEL DISTRITO FEDERAL This page, from left, a VW Beetle takes a breather in Coyoacán; a waitress on the move with pulque, a sacred Aztec drink made from fermented cactus, at La Nuclear in Roma. Opposite, from left, a barista grinds the beans at Café El Jarocho; Frida and Diego’s whimsically autographed kitchen at the Frida Kahlo Museum

is airy, full of light and clu ered with art, pre-Columbian po ery and books; on a kitchen wall, “Frida” and “Diego” are spelled out in hundreds of tiny teacups.

After an hour of wishing you lived here, you walk out and follow Avenida Ignacio Allende past vendors se ing up stands of woolen plush toys, lucha libre masks, clothes and food. You follow the mariachi strains to El Jarocho (3), a lively corner café. Coffee in hand, you take a seat on a sidewalk bench and catch up on the local gossip. Farther down, you cross Plaza Hidalgo (4), a stately public space with the old city council building on one side, ringed by cafés and ice cream shops, and

then pass through the shady, manicured Jardin Centenario to Francisco Sosa, a leafy street lined with colorful colonial homes.

You cross the major avenue La Paz and make your way to the Plaza San Jacinto in San Angel, home of El Bazar del Sábado (5), D.F.’s legendary weekly art fair.

Chilangos pack into the bazaar building to peruse handmade jewelry, iron solar system mobiles and impossibly detailed sculptures carved out of single toothpicks, while outside, hundreds of artists sell their paintings, which range from conventional to subversive to exuberantly kitschy.

Wind your way along cobblestone residential streets to San Angel Inn (6), a

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STRING SECTION Roving musicians Samuel Lopez and Ignacio Lopes, at work in Coyoacรกn

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THREE PERFECT DAYS MEXICO CITY

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famed local institution housed in a sprawling, highclass hacienda. You take a table in the bar area, call for one of the house margaritas, poured from a silver decanter buried in a dish of crushed ice, and follow that with roasted poblano peppers stuffed with cheese and beef in a sweet sauce with undertones of smoke.

A er a brief nap back at the hotel (the city is 7,200 feet above sea level, and the air is thin) and a shower, you stroll through Polanco, past mansions, embassies and streets named for great writers, to Pujol (7), considered by some to be Mexico City’s most important restaurant. The dizzying tasting menu marries the traditional with the avant-garde. There are the pumpkin flowers stuffed with bean paste; the baby corn in coffee mayonnaise; the egg in a pastry puff drizzled with caterpillar sauce; fried dough and tomato crudités with fried tomato skin, queso fresco and a sprinkling of tiny, crunchy beetles; a raspberry sorbet served with salt and flaming mezcal. It seems to go on forever.

You’re half-delirious from food, but you’d be remiss if you didn’t take in some of the nightlife, so you have the waiter call a car and you head out to the Roma neighborhood. Per the urging of an expat, you stop first at La Nuclear (8), a narrow, noisy, brick-lined space that sells pulque, a traditional milky beverage made from fermented cactus that’s enjoying a revival among bohemians. Then it’s off to Mama Rumba (9), a popular salsa club. The place is slammed, with two levels of people dancing to a ferocious salsa band. You stake out a spot by the bar and order a mojito. You try to keep from being sucked in, but resistance is ultimately futile.

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DAY ONE (1) Las Alcobas 390 Presidente Masaryk; Tel: 3300-3900 (2) Frida Kahlo Museum 247 Londres; Tel: 5554-5999 (3) Café El Jarocho 91 Centenario; Tel: 5554-6588 (4) Plaza Hidalgo

DAY TWO | Start with breakfast at Las Alcobas, with the fresh fruit plate, a sculptural tower of kiwi, apple, melon and dragon fruit, sprinkled with pomegranate seeds and drizzled with honey. It is, without question, the lightest thing you’ll eat all week. To make sure your stomach doesn’t get the wrong idea, you chase the fruit with a plate of eggs in rich mole sauce.

(5) El Bazar del Sábado Plaza San Jacinto (6) San Angel Inn 50 Diego Rivera; Tel: 5616-1402 (7) Pujol 254 Francisco Petrarca; Tel: 5545-4111 (8) La Nuclear 161 Orizaba; Tel: 5574-5367 (9) Mama Rumba Eje 3 Pte. Medellín; Tel: 5264-4316

SLIM PICKINGS

RONALDO SCHEMIDT/AFP/GETTY IMAGES

The world’s richest man opens D.F.’s newest museum Mexico City has no shortage of great museums, but none has inspired more buzz than Museo Soumaya, a shining, top-heavy $70 million structure in Polanco showcasing the personal collection of one Carlos Slim Helú: the world’s richest man. Named in honor of Slim’s late wife, who kindled his love of art, and designed by his son-in-law, the museum contains some 66,000 items, including Picassos, da Vincis, Renoirs and Rodins (most notably a version of The Kiss).

Slim—whose net worth clocks in at more than $74 billion— claims he erected this temple not to show off that he has the means to amass such a collection, but for a purer reason.

“All desirable things,” he has said, “must be accessible.”

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THREE PERFECT DAYS MEXICO CITY

HEADSTRONG This page, from top, Aztec art at the Museo Nacional de Antropología; a corner suite at Las Alcobas. Opposite, elote—corn on the cob with mayonnaise, chili powder, lime and salt—a street food staple

Outside, you walk down Calle Oscar Wilde, past a park with a tranquil pool in which older men pilot their remotecontrolled boats on the weekends (one man with a submarine is wreaking havoc on a cheerful orange vessel piloted by another in a captain’s hat), and head for Bosque de Chapultepec (1), the main park in a city that should be be er known for its green spaces. Paseo de la Reforma, D.F.’s ordinarily congested central artery, is closed to cars on Sundays. Savor the peace and quiet while you admire the art exhibits mounted on the fences lining the park, and the sculpture garden running along the median.

The next stop is the Museo Nacional de Antropología (2). Inside, you find an unmatched collection of Mayan and Aztec artifacts, including an otherworldly jade mask discovered in the tomb of seventhcentury Mayan ruler Pacal, and an exhibit on pulque. Here you learn that the Aztecs limited consumption of the highly alcoholic drink lest they fall under the spell of Cenzon Totochtin, or “Curse of the 400 Rabbits.”

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THREE PERFECT DAYS MEXICO CITY

MASKED MEN The guilty pleasures of lucha libre Lowbrow, melodramatic and often hilarious, lucha libre is second only to soccer in the hearts of Mexican sports fans. Of course, it’s less sport than it is frenetic, muscular soap opera. Rudos (bad guys) and técnicos (good guys), clad in colorful masks and attended by beautiful women, clash in a series of elaborately scripted battles, while a rowdy all-ages crowd representing all points along the socioeconomic spectrum bellows its support. The fans at ringside tend to go for the técnicos, while those up in the cheap seats throw their support behind the rudos, particularly when the latter gang up on their goody-goody opponents, as they’re prone to do. Matches can be caught on Fridays and Tuesdays at the Arena Mexico or on Sundays at the Arena Coliseo, and tickets (and masks) are available online.

ART OF THE CITY Opposite, clockwise from top left, a nicely crafted cappuccino at Café Toscana; a ceramic offering at El Bazar del Sábado; Pujol’s avocado flautas stuffed with crystal shrimp; a Diego Rivera mural at Palacio de Bellas Artes

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Leaving the museum, you stop at one of the many food carts arrayed outside and order a cup of esquites.

It’s nothing more than corn, hot peppers, lime, cheese and chili powder, served in corn liquid in a styrofoam cup, but it’s a terrifically flavorful meal unto itself (and, more important, a great vanquisher of residual pulque rabbits). You eat it on the way to El Centro, the historic center of Mexico City. When you get there, you navigate through the throngs of people to the Catedral Metropolitana (3), on the edge of the Zocalo, the main plaza in El Centro. When Hernán Cortés vanquished the Aztecs, he ordered their temples leveled, and had a Catholic church built here. The one standing today, consecrated in 1667, replaced that first one. You take a look at the grand altar and the mammoth organ, and note how the chandeliers are hanging at an angle— the result of the sinking ground beneath El Centro.

Next is the Palacio Nacional (4), the government headquarters built by Cortés on the site of Montezuma’s palace. You walk into the handsome courtyard and climb the staircase to take in several historical murals by Diego Rivera. Then travel back in time, via the intensely crowded and cacophonous street Moneda, to the Templo Mayor (5), one of the Aztecs’ main temples (and the site of some of the most copious sacrificial bloodle ing). It was built in the 14th century, and a er that, each succeeding ruler built a new layer on top in a representation of Aztec expansion. Lost for centuries, it was accidentally discovered by utility workers in 1978, and is still being excavated.

Today, you can see the broken concentric shells and peer into its very core.

M éx ic

DAY TWO (1) Bosque de Chapultepec (2) Museo Nacional de Antropología Tel: 5286-2960 (3) Catedral Metropolitana Centro Histórico; Tel: 5510-0440 (4) Palacio Nacional Centro Histórico; Tel: 3688-1255 (5) Templo Mayor 8 Seminario; Tel: 4040-5600 (6) Alameda Central Between Hidalgo and Juárez HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • NOVEMBER 2011

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¡QUÉ BELLO! The stunning Palacio de Bellas Artes, next to the lively Alameda Central, a park that’s full of food and music on weekends

You amble west along Madero, taking in a pedestrian mall teeming with performers, riotous drum bands, mariachi musicians walking to work, teenagers and guys in homemade movie costumes posing for photos. (Batman is doing a brisk business; Predator, who is fashioned largely from washers and vacuum cleaner hoses, is less of a draw.) Pass the Palacio de Bellas Artes, and arrive at the Alameda Central (6). The park is packed with vendors and Chilangos hustling and hanging out on a pleasant Sunday. There are bands playing in different corners of the park, each inspiring whirlpools of impromptu salsa dancing.

The sun has gone down, and you’re feeling the altitude, so you make your way back to Chapultepec, buy some mango slices and roasted fava beans in chili powder from a vendor (most restaurants are closed on Sunday nights) and return to the hotel. Thus se led in, you order up a glass of wine, climb into the spacious tub by the window overlooking the street and call it a day.

DAY THREE | Having go en a good night’s sleep, you call for a car to take you to bohemian Roma, and get out at Café Toscana (1), a coffee shop popular with the local creative types, with windows that open to the sidewalk and excellent coffee and baked goods.

When you finish your cup, take a stroll past the neighborhood’s indie design stores, small bookstores and bike shops, plus a film shoot.

Though buzzing with energy today, Roma was nearly destroyed by an earthquake in 1985, and even now many of the old colonial and beaux arts residences slump and lean.

On Zacatecas, stop at La Valise (2), a store owned by a French expat that sells only design pieces and random curios that can fit in a suitcase. On the way out you smell something good, and step into Broka (3), next door. The li le year-old restaurant and bar (the space was previously a piñata store) serves one dish per day. Today, it’s chicken stuffed with mushrooms and covered with spicy poblano salsa. Delicious.

A 20-minute walk takes you to Roma’s trendier sister, Condesa, where you do a lap around Amsterdam, a street that circles the Parque Mexico, one of the city’s pre ier parks, then stray south down Tamaulipas to the Centro Cultural Bella Epoca (4), a vast, spotless bookstore and cultural center. You buy a CD by Chavela Vargas, one of Mexico’s great singers, then—to achieve that very Mexican balance of high- and lowbrow—proceed across the

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THREE PERFECT DAYS MEXICO CITY

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DAY THREE (1) Café Toscana Plaza Río de Janeiro; Tel: 5533-5444 (2) La Valise 126 Zacatecas; Tel: 5564-9013 (3) Broka 126B Zacatecas; Tel: 4437-4285 (4) Centro Cultural Bella Epoca 202 Tamaulipas; Tel: 5276-7111 (5) El Hijo del Santo 219 Tamaulipas; Tel: 5515-2186 (6) Azul Condesa 68 Nuevo León; Tel: 5286-6380 (7) La Botica Corner of Alfonso Reyes and Puerto Real; Tel: 5212-1167

THE INSIDE SCOOP FROM THOSE IN THE KNOW • ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER JAMES FIELD

David Lida

Rose Mary Salum

Grant Cogswell

AUTHOR, FIRST STOP IN THE NEW WORLD: MEXICO CITY, THE CAPITAL OF THE 21ST CENTURY

DIRECTOR OF LITERAL MAGAZINE

OWNER, UNDER THE VOLCANO BOOKS

“One of the buildings downtown that surprises me is the Secretaría de Educación Pública. It was built during the 16th century, but between 1923 and 1928 it was decorated, mainly by Diego Rivera, with some of the most magnificent murals you can find in Mexico City.”

“Be sure to try pulque, the Aztecs’ smoothie-like sacred beverage, at La Hija de los Apaches in the Doctores neighborhood, where retired lightweight boxer Epiphanio ‘Pifas’ Leyva warmly caters to students, punks, workers and grandmothers like an extended family.”

“Have lunch at a cantina in El Centro for a true D.F. experience. At most cantinas, traditional food comes free with your drinks. At La Mascota, children and grandparents are welcome.”

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street to El Hijo del Santo (5), a small boutique and shrine to Mexico’s greatest lucha libre wrestler that’s full of T-shirts, toys, watches and posters bearing his visage. You can’t help it—you buy a silver mask.

For dinner, you have a reservation at one of Condesa’s trendier eateries, Azul Condesa (6), a modern, colorful space popular with young, well-heeled types. You order the chile en nogada: a roasted poblano pepper stuffed with spicy-sweet diced pork and smothered in walnut sauce and pomegranate seeds.

For dessert you have the chocolate tamale with crème anglaise, chocolate sauce and almonds. The corn keeps telling you it’s not dessert, while the rest of the steaming dish definitively informs you otherwise.

During your postprandial walk through Condesa, you spot a tiny concrete bunker of a mezcalería called La Botica (7). On one wall is a pop art cactus; on the other, a jukebox full of great Mexican rock ’n’ roll. Dozens of varieties of mezcal are displayed in glass medicine bo les, behind a glass case of Star Wars figures posed with their arms held aloft in inscrutable triumph. You order the top-shelf añejo and the waitress climbs a ladder into a crawlspace over the bar to retrieve it, then serves it with a dish of sliced oranges coated in chili powder. It’s smooth and smoky, with no burn, completely delicious, and the fruit chases it beautifully. You had planned to do some more strolling, but instead you opt to end the night here, feet up, doing what you should be doing: feeling the pulse, pondering it, practicing it, watching the street life teem, here in one of the world’s most fascinating cities.

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Riviera Maya

Yucatan

Riviera Maya

Yucatan

N

estled between the white sand beaches along the eastern coast of Mexico, the Riviera Maya is a paradisiacal strip of land bordered by the turquoise blue waters of the Caribbean Sea. Surrounded by thousands of species of flora and fauna, it houses unique geological formations and hides extraordinary vestiges of the ancient Mayan civilization such as Coba and Tulum.

It owns a unique and incomparable cosmopolitan atmosphere offering world class hotel infrastructure, top notch dining, shopping and nightlife to please the most demanding visitors. To complete the escape guests should experience the adventure in subterranean rivers, natural aquariums, swim with dolphins or slide on zip lines.

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agical land where the past becomes the present every day, ancient land of eternal stories and wonders, of kind people and traditions that contrast with modernity.

Its fascinating gastronomy, mixture of millenarian Mayan recipes and creole influence, opens an infinite range of possibilities for the palate. A place to lose oneself among the songs of birds and the music of snails that embellish the lyrics of its trova melodies. Yucatan is diverse; it carries its history all along its streets, its houses and museums. It owns impressive archaeological sites, like the great pyramid of Kukulkan, the monumental Uxmal and the mystic Ek Balam, as well as colonial cities, tropical forest and mysterious Cenotes.

Campeche

Campeche

T

o experience the state of Campeche is to do more than just get in touch with the creative magic of the Mayan people; it is immersing yourself in an odyssey full of landscapes where water and vegetation, archaeological sites and colonial monuments abound.

It is to enter into contact with a variety of flora and fauna and receive the warm hospitality of the campechanos themselves. Campecheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cultural richness is determined by a fusion between Maya and Spanish which is the basis for tradition, folklore, music, customs and cuisine all of which can be considered unique in the world.

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America’s Changing Energy Landscape New resources promise to change the way we think about power.

FROM THE INTRODUCTION of new automotive fuels and propulsion systems to the development of new energy resources such as wind and solar energy, the face of energy across all of North America is changing rapidly.

While many of today’s headlines surround the development of green energies, resources for more traditional energies such as oil and natural gas are being developed as well. The Athabasca oil sands in Canada, as well as the construction of a pipeline that will carry these tar sands to refineries on the Gulf Coast, will have a dramatic impact on U.S. energy in the very near future.

Underlying New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio and West Virginia, Maryland and Virginia, the Marcellus Shale natural gas

III

Invest in the U.S. I Energy

CATCH THE WIND Wind turbine in a wheatfield

reserves are estimated to be in excess of 1.9 trillion cubic feet of natural gas. And while that is enough to make the region one of the largest natural gas producers on the planet, another benefit of the development of this deep ground resource is the production of ethane, which could be used as low-cost feeder stock for materials such as plastics and other chemicals.

Indeed, the State of West Virginia is actively seeking to have a state-of-the-art “cracker” plant built within its borders.

At some point – perhaps soon – it is likely that the United States no longer will be dependent upon the Middle East for energy, which will drastically change the geopolitical landscape.

What emerging technologies or energy resources will come to the forefront? And how will it all impact our economy, let alone the environment?

As with any revolutionary change, the future is not always clear. There are bound to be winners and losers. Here are some of the winners in the story of energy in the U.S., past and present.

This Hemispheres special section is the first of a five-part series that focuses on industry sectors that are driving the U.S. economy. Entitled “Invest in the U.S.,” future sections will focus on technology, Wal-Mart, manufacturing and energy.

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Invest in the U.S. I Energy

West Virginia’s Energy Strength

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Invest in the US Energy.indd 120

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WILD AND WONDERFUL West Virginia is home to the largest wind power development in the Eastern United States

When most people from outside of West Virginia think of the state, they mining sites. usually think of the wild and wonderful “Reclaimed surface mine projects in 12 mountains, whitewater ra ing on the counties have created more than 13,000 Gauley or New Rivers, mountain biking, jobs,” says Burde e. rock climbing and other eco-tourism Mined lands have been redeveloped activities. But West Virginia also has for schools, medical centers, malls, inbeen an energy-producing state since dustrial parks and government facilities before it joined the union in 1863. And such as the FBI complex in Clarksburg, most of that energy comes in the form WV. Notably, the new permanent home of a reliable energy source that America of the National Scout Jamboree is transhas relied upon for centuries: coal. forming a prime post-mine site into a “We supply roughly the entire summer camp for more than 50,000 Boy eastern third of the country with coal,” Scouts near the New River Gorge. says Keith Burde e, West Virginia’s With all its eco-tourism, West Virginia Secretary of Commerce. is naturally interested in protecting Coal, however, is not the only form its environment, as well as the many of energy produced in this mountainenvironments where coal is being ous state. consumed. There are “We are also home to many new emerging the largest wind power clean coal technologies, development in the some of which are Eastern United States,” being developed at West says Burde e. “But it is Virginia University. only a small fraction of Coal is also a lot safer our energy production, and reliable than many not only in this state, but energy sources. in our nation as a whole.”

“You can say what Every form of energy you want about coal,” production has its downsays Burde e. “But it’s side, and wind energy, abundant. It’s affordable. while perceived as being And it’s reliable. Rhetoric a very clean form of is cheap. But at the end of energy, does have its the day, people still want drawbacks. The turbines the lights to come on.” play havoc with birds, There is a new source KEITH BURDETTE Secretary of ComBurde e says. “Plus, in of energy being tapped merce for the State of West Virginia our state, because the in West Virginia. It turbines are so big and have to be placed comes in the form of natural gas from up high on the mountains in order to the Marcellus Shale, an extensive work, people complain that they detract deposit that underlies several states, from the view,” Burde e adds. including West Virginia. While West Underscoring the state’s energy Virginia has always been a natural gas dexterity, several large wind projects producing state, and the Marcellus have been developed on former coalShale will only add to that production,

12/10/2011 16:36

YOU CAN’T HOLD DOWN THE FORT. Ranked 5TH IN THE NATION FOR JOB GROWTH, with strong growth PROJECTED THROUGH 2015.

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To receive more information about Fort Bend County, text FORT to 22333.

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07/10/2011 10:15

Invest in the U.S. I Energy

III

special advertising feature

the real benefit will ultimately come from a byproduct of natural gas production called ethane.

“That’s the real game changer,” says Burde e. “Ethane is the feeder stock for the production of a lot of different products, including chemicals and plastics.”

By building a stable, low-tax environment for long-term business investment, West Virginia is now hoping that a new world-class ethane “cracker” plant will be built in the state. It’s a move that could bring tens of thousands of jobs to the state. The plant also will provide a low-cost and more energy efficient means of producing plastic and chemical products, which are used in everything from the automotive industry to everyday household products.

“The competition for that plant is in full swing,” says Burde e. “We are competing well and are optimistic about our chances.”

And for a lot of good reasons. Not only does West Virginia have good system of highways, rail and navigable rivers, it also has a history of working well with industry. It’s also built a very stable environment for business, having a balanced budget and cash reserves.

“The fact is, we’re not raising taxes here, we’re lowering taxes,” says Burde e.

“We’re not only lowering business income taxes, we’re eliminating business franchise taxes.”

All of which makes the State of West Virginia an ideal location for responsible energy production well into the late 21st century.

George H.W. Bush’s Energy Legacy As the 41st President of the United States, George Bush signed two major pieces of energy legislation.

The first was the Clean Air Act Amendments of 1990, which was designed to curb threats to the nation’s environment and to the health of millions from acid rain, ur-

Invest in the US Energy.indd 122

ban air pollution and toxic air emissions.

The proposal also established a national permits program to make the law more workable, and an improved enforcement program to help ensure be er compliance with the act.

Signing the bill on Nov. 15, 1990, Bush said, “This legislation isn’t just the centerpiece of our environmental agenda.

It is simply the most significant air pollution legislation in our nation’s history, and it restores America’s place as the global leader in environmental protection.”

The second major piece of energy legislation enacted during Bush’s presidency was the Energy Policy Act of 1992. The act was designed to reduce U.S. dependence on imported petroleum and improve air quality by addressing all aspects of energy supply and demand, including alternative fuels, renewable energy and energy efficiency.

Signing the act on Oct. 24, 1992, Bush said, “We must work to produce more of our energy here at home and import less from abroad. And our national strategy demands it. Future generations deserve it. And now we can make sure that it will be done.”

Bush’s domestic agenda, energy policies, and his time as a Texas oil man can all be researched and explored at the George Bush Presidential Library and Museum in College Station, Texas.

Energy Central: Fort Bend Co., TX Fortune 500 energy companies, high-tech research and development laboratories, and innovative energy start-ups all choose Texas’ premier address for energy: Fort Bend County. Fort Bend is in the southwestern part of the Greater Houston Metropolitan area, and is known not only by the companies it keeps, but also by the workforce talent it a racts.

Fort Bend County is awarded unmatched accolades for its smart growth, business-friendly culture, and lifestyle

LONESTARS From left, photos and artifacts from the Zapata Offshore Co. on display at the George Bush Presidential Library; Fluor in Fort Bend County

amenities. Fort Bend’s leadership plans for the future with significant infrastructure upgrades, and award-winning masterplanned communities such as Cinco Ranch, Riverstone, Sienna Plantation and Telfair consistently rank as the very best in the country.

Energy companies need unmatched infrastructure, global reach, and a highly trained workforce. Add a businessfriendly climate and superb quality of life amenities, and the case for choosing Fort Bend is clear. Convenience and proximity to multiple international airports – including Sugar Land Regional Airport, a fixed base operation airport with U.S. customs – three different rail systems and multiple transportation corridors give energy leaders immediate access to destinations around the globe.

While oil and gas historically anchor the energy sector – for example, Fluor Corporation and Schlumberger Technology Corporation are the largest private sector employers in Fort Bend County – Fort Bend is home to a diverse cross-section of energy firms.

Nalco Company’s Energy Services Division and Tyco Valves & Controls have pioneered new products via research and development. They join Puffer-Sweiven, National Oilwell Varco, Flextronics, Yokogawa Corporation, Hudson Products, FairfieldNodal, Champion Technologies, Noble Drilling Services, Thermo Process Instruments, Sunoco Logistics Partners, Suntron, Global Flow Technologies, and other firms providing products and services throughout the combined energy sectors.

Interested in learning more about Fort Bend County? Call the Greater Fort Bend Economic Development Council at 281.242.0000 or visit www.

FortBend County.com.

12/10/2011 16:36

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Memberships starting at $129,000 1-800-867-5762 or 011. 506.2654.5476 info@palmscostarica.com www.palmscostarica.com

No.32767_Spence_Enterprises 1pp.indd 1

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© 2011 United Air Lines, Inc. All rights reserved.

MileagePlus is growing.

And so are your travel opportunities.

Over 1,100 award destinations.

Buenos Aires, Bermuda and Barcelona. Just a few of the exciting United award travel destinations, and more than 1,100 MileagePlus destinations worldwide. And with over 30 airline partners, thousands of participating hotels, car rentals, restaurants and retailers, it’s no wonder MileagePlus has been voted Best Frequent Flyer Program by .SVIHS ;YH]LSLY seven years in a row. To learn more, go to mileageplus.com.

The world’s most rewarding loyalty program.

Includes destinations served by United Air Lines, Inc., Continental Airlines, Inc., United Express, Continental Express, Continental Connection and the Star Alliance Network.

No.00000 MP is growing 1pp.indd 1

06/10/2011 08:59

Entertainment & Information ENTERTAINMENT 126 DIRECTV速 128 Film & Television 132 Audio Programming 134 Crossword 136 Sudoku INFORMATION 139 Route Maps 144 Customs & Immigration 145 Our Fleet 146 Terminal Diagrams 150 Safety & Travel Assistance 152 MileagePlus 153 Alliances & Partnerships 160 Food & Beverages

?

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ENTERTAINMENT

DIRECTV®

DIRECTV® IS OUR LATEST UPGRADE, allowing you to select from

more than 100 channels of live television along with blockbuster Hollywood movies, sitcoms and dramas. Purchase DIRECTV® and stay entertained for your entire flight.

Use your Continental Airlines Chase MasterCard and receive a special $2 discount.

Available on select 737 aircraft

What you want to watch

OVER 100 CHANNELS You can get more than 100 of your favorite TV channels. Movies, sports, family programming—we have the best in entertainment.

MOVIES Choose from four Hollywood movies: Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows: Part 2, Nights in Rodanthe, The Island and Space Jam. Or, browse for movies on live TV.

AND MORE! Never miss a play from inside the 20 on DIRECTV’s Red Zone Channel®, which brings you the final yards of every scoring drive on one dedicated channel.

Your favorite TV channels INCLUDING: NETWORKS

NEWS

SPORTS

ENTERTAINMENT

FAMILY

HOW TO USE 1. Swipe your credit card* to begin.

2. Select your channel or movie and start watching.

3. Listen using your own headset or feel free to use the complimentary headset provided on board. Your purchase is good for the entire flight, even when the aircraft door is open before takeoff, and you can turn the TV on and off throughout your flight. *MasterCard, Visa, American Express or Discover accepted.

TV and movies are complimentary in First Class.

A&E ABC FAMILY ANIMAL BABY BBCA BET BIG TEN BIO BLOOMBERG BOOM BRAVO CARTOON CBS CENTRIC CHILLER CLOO CMT CNBC CNN COMEDY COOK C-SPAN C-SPAN2 CW DISCOVERY DISNEY

265 311 282 293 264 329 610 266 353 298 237 296 390 330 257 308 327 355 202 249 232 350 351 394 278 290

DISNEY XD DIY E! ESPN ESPN CLASSIC ESPN2 ESPNEWS ESPNU FOOD FOX FOX BUSINESS FOX MOVIE FOX NEWS FOX SOCCER FUEL FX GALA GOL TV GOLF GOSPEL GREEN GSN HALLMARK HGTV H2 HISTORY

292 230 236 206 614 209 207 208 231 398 359 258 360 619 618 248 404 426 218 338 286 233 312 229 271 269

HLN HUB INVESTIGATION LEARNING LIFETIME LIFETIME MOVIE LINK MILITARY MLB Network MOUNTAIN MSNBC MTV MTV2 NAT GEO NBC NICK NICK JR NICK TOON NRB OUTDOOR OVATION OXYGEN QVC REDZONE SCIENCE SOAP

204 294 285 280 252 253 375 287 213 616 356 331 333 276 392 299 301 302 378 606 274 251 275 573 284 262

SPEED SPIKE SPORTSMAN STYLE SYFY TBS TEEN NICK TENNIS TNT TRAVEL TRUTV TURNER MOVIE TV GUIDE TV LAND TVG HORSE TWC UNI USA VERSUS VH1 VH1 CLASSIC WGN WORD

607 241 605 235 242 247 303 217 245 277 246 256 273 304 602 362 402 242 603 335 337 307 373

SATELLITE COVERAGE AREA Since the programming is live from DIRECTV®, a flight may take you out of the satellite coverage area. If this happens, prerecorded TV shows and movies will still be available.

Exact channel numbers and programming schedules are subject to change. DIRECTV® service is not available on flights outside the continental United States.

The signal may be lost in turbulence and/or if banking of the aircraft is required. DIRECTV® and Continental Airlines are not responsible for interruptions of service that are beyond our control including, without limitation, acts of nature, power failure, or any other cause. ©2011 DIRECTV® Inc. DIRECTV® and the Cyclone Design logo are registered trademarks of DIRECTV® Inc. All other trademarks and service marks are the property of their respective owners.

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© 2011 United Air Lines, Inc. All rights reserved.

Creating a better flight plan.

Building the world’s leading airline means centering it around you. The finest people in the industry providing superior service. World-class lounges and a modern aircraft fleet for reliability and comfort. And a frequent flyer program backed by an unparalleled route network means more rewards and more options. In other words, we’re building a better way to go. For information and reservations, go to united.com.

No.00000 Creating a better flightplan 1pp.indd 1

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ENTERTAINMENT

FILMS ARE SHOWN on flights of three hours or

longer. Movies are available on most 737, 747, 757, 767, 777, A319 and A320 aircraft flights.

Schedules and selections are subject to change.

En el canal 10 encontrará películas y programas de televisión disponibles en Español.

Film & Television ENJOY THESE MOVIES AND SHOWS ON THE MAIN SCREEN

Films DOMESTIC AND INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS WILL SHOW THE FOLLOWING MOVIES EASTBOUND

WESTBOUND

NOV 1-15

Larry Crowne [T]

Rise of the Planet of the Apes [T]

NOV 16-30

Monte Carlo [T]

Life in a Day [T]

NOV 1-15

Monte Carlo [T]

Life in a Day [T]

NOV 16-30

Larry Crowne [T]

Rise of the Planet of the Apes [T]

NORTH AMERICA

HAWAII

SOUTHBOUND

LATIN AMERICA & CARIBBEAN

NORTHBOUND

NOV 1-15

Rise of the Planet of the Apes [T]

Larry Crowne [T]

NOV 16-30

Life in a Day [T]

Monte Carlo [T]

• Flights between Chicago or Denver and Hawaii will show both films.

• Select films are shown on flights within Micronesia and on intra-Asia flights on 737 aircraft.

Television SELECT FLIGHTS MAY FEATURE THE FOLLOWING TELEVISION PROGRAMMING 30 Rock [T] Rules of Engagement [T] Inside the Actors Studio [T]

The Big Bang Theory [T] The Office [T] Suits [T]

Suburgatory [T] Cash Cab Only in America With Larry the Cable Guy [T]

The Simpsons [T] Monk Hawaii Five-0 [T]

Rules of Engagement [T] Friday Night Lights [T] The Middle

Parks and Recreation [T] 30 Rock [T] The Big Bang Theory [T]

[T] = Adult themes

You may purchase a headset onboard Continental-operated flights for $3 and keep it for future travel. Applicable on all video-equipped flights of at least 1½ hours’ duration within the continental United States, Hawaii, Alaska and Canada, as well as to/from select destinations in Mexico, the Caribbean and the mid-Pacific.

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Headsets are complimentary on all aircraft equipped with DIRECTV®.

NOVEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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MOST FILMS HAVE BEEN EDITED for

airline use. However, customer discretion is still advised. Content guidelines are provided as a courtesy to help our customers decide whether to view a film.

CUSTOMERS ARE WELCOME to view their own video entertainment aboard a United aircraft as long as they are able to show that the programming has an MPAA rating of “R” or less.

Larry Crowne [T] Having lost his job to corporate downsizing, Larry Crowne (Tom Hanks) heads to a local college to start over. There, he finds camaraderie among a colorful group of outcasts—and a romantic interest in the form of his teacher (Julia Roberts).

FEATURING Tom Hanks, Julia Roberts, Sarah Mahoney DIRECTED BY Tom Hanks

Life in a Day [T] 1 hr.

38 min.

Monte Carlo [T] After embarking on their dream vacation to Paris, three young Americans become entangled in a case of mistaken identity and soon find themselves leading the high life—and falling in love—in glamorous Monte Carlo.

FEATURING Selena Gomez, Katie Cassidy, Leighton Meester DIRECTED BY Thomas Bezucha

WHAT DO YOU THINK of our programming? We’re open to suggestions. Please send them to play@united.com or visit united.com/play.

Created from some 4,500 hours of footage submitted by YouTube users, this remarkable documentary chronicles July 24, 2010, as it was experienced by individuals living in nearly 200 countries. Exhilarating, moving and funny, Life in a Day is the story of our world—told by us.

DIRECTED BY Kevin Macdonald

1 hr.

30 min.

Rise of the Planet of the Apes [T] 1 hr.

49 min.

Medical researchers unwittingly set off an epic battle between man and beast as one of their genetically enhanced test subjects, a chimp named Caesar, uses his heightened intelligence to lead other apes in a fight for freedom.

FEATURING James Franco, Andy Serkis, Freida Pinto DIRECTED BY Rupert Wyatt

1 hr.

45 min.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • NOVEMBER 2011

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ENTERTAINMENT

Film & Television THE FOLLOWING FILMS ARE AVAILABLE ON INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS

INTERNATIONAL LANGUAGE TRACKS (G) Synchronisierte Versionen finden Sie auf Kanal 2 und 3 (wenn verfügbar).

(J) 日本語の吹き替えはチャンネル2番および３番でお聴き いただけます。（一部英語音声のみとなります。） (C) 如果可 用，在第2频道和第3频道将提供语言录音 (K) 채널 2,3에서 더빙버전이 제공됩니다

(K) Korean (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese

B747 Mainscreen Programming FROM U.S. Rise of the Planet of the Apes [T] 1 hr., 45 min.

Life in a Day [T] 1 hr., 30 min.

U.K.

2 hr.

2 hr.

Mr. Popper’s Penguins 1 hr., 37 min.

2 hr.

Rise of the Planet of the Apes (G) [T] 1 hr., 45 min.

Life in a Day (G) [T] 1 hr., 30 min.

2 hr.

Larry Crowne (G) [T] 1 hr., 38 min.

Monte Carlo (G) [T] 1 hr., 49 min.

2 hr.

Captain America: The First Avenger (G) [T] 2 hr., 1 min.

Cars 2 (G) 1 hr., 46 min.

2 hr.

Mr. Popper’s Penguins (G) 1 hr., 37 min.

Zookeeper (G) [T] 1 hr., 42 min.

2 hr.

Larry Crowne [T] 1 hr., 38 min.

2 hr.

AUSTRALIA

Larry Crowne [T] 1 hr., 38 min.

Monte Carlo [T] 1 hr., 49 min.

2 hr.

Captain America: The First Avenger [T] 2 hr., 1 min.

GERMANY

TO U.S.

Monte Carlo [T] 1 hr., 49 min.

Mr. Popper’s Penguins 1 hr., 37 min.

Rise of the Planet of the Apes [T] 1 hr., 45 min.

Life in a Day [T] 1 hr., 30 min.

Captain America: The First Avenger [T] 2 hr., 1 min.

2 hr.

Cars 2 1 hr., 46 min.

2 hr.

Zookeeper [T] 1 hr., 42 min.

4 hr.

2 hr.

Larry Crowne (J, K) [T] 1 hr., 38 min.

Monte Carlo (J, K) [T] 1 hr., 49 min.

JAPAN & SOUTH KOREA *JAPAN FLIGHTS ONLY

2 hr.

2 hr.

Mr. Popper’s Penguins (J) 1 hr., 37 min.

2 hr.

Zookeeper (J, K) [T] 1 hr., 42 min.

2 hr.

Larry Crowne (C) [T] 1 hr., 38 min.

Monte Carlo (C) [T] 1 hr., 49 min.

CHINA & HONG KONG

Rise of the Planet of the Apes (J, K) [T] 1 hr., 45 min.

Life in a Day (J, K) [T] 1 hr., 30 min.

2 hr.

Captain America: The First Avenger (J, K) [T] 2 hr., 1 min.

Cars 2 (J, K) 1 hr., 46 min.

2 hr.

2 hr.*

Rise of the Planet of the Apes (C) [T] 1 hr., 45 min.

Life in a Day (C) [T] 1 hr., 30 min.

2 hr.

Mr. Popper’s Penguins (C) 1 hr., 37 min.

Zookeeper (C) [T] 1 hr., 42 min.

2 hr.

Captain America: The First Avenger (C) [T] 2 hr., 1 min.

Cars 2 (C) 1 hr., 46 min.

2 hr.

FROM JAPAN Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides (J, C) [T] THAILAND & TAIWAN *THAILAND FLIGHTS ONLY

2 hr., 10 min.

Something Borrowed* (J, C) [T] 1 hr., 52 min.

TO JAPAN Kung Fu Panda 2 (J, C) 1 hr., 31 min.

Midnight in Paris* (J, C) [T] 1 hr., 40 min.

2 hr.

2 hr.

2 hr. = Two-hour block of television [T] = Adult themes

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DIGITAL MEDIA LOADING occurs between

the 25th of one month and the 5th of the following month. As a result, please understand if your flight features a different lineup before or after the start of each month.

Captain America: The First Avenger [T] Army scientists transform a scrawny but brave GI (Chris Evans) into a “super soldier” who takes on the Nazis.

FEATURING Chris Evans, Tommy Lee Jones, Hugo Weaving DIRECTED BY Joe Johnston

Cars 2 2 hr.

1 min.

Kung Fu Panda 2 Po’s new life is threatened by the emergence of a formidable villain who plans to use a secret weapon to destroy kung fu.

VOICES BY Jack Black, Angelina Jolie, Gary Oldman DIRECTED BY Jennifer Yuh

1 hr.

46 min.

Mr. Popper’s Penguins 1 hr.

31 min.

Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides [T] Captain Jack crosses paths with a former flame on her way to the Fountain of Youth, and ends up in trouble yet again.

FEATURING Johnny Depp, Penelope Cruz, Geoffrey Rush DIRECTED BY Rob Marshall

A shot at the World Grand Prix title lures Lightning McQueen and his pal Mater into international adventures.

VOICES BY Owen Wilson, Larry the Cable Guy, John Turturro DIRECTED BY John Lasseter/Brad Lewis

Jim Carrey plays a workaholic divorcé who’s clueless about family—that is, until six little penguins waddle into his life.

FEATURING Jim Carrey, Carla Gugino, Angela Lansbury DIRECTED BY Mark Waters

1 hr.

37 min.

Zookeeper [T] 2 hr.

10 min.

When a zookeeper (Kevin James) decides he needs a more glamorous job to land a girlfriend, the animals are not pleased.

FEATURING Kevin James, Rosario Dawson, Leslie Bibb DIRECTED BY Frank Coraci

1 hr.

42 min.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • NOVEMBER 2011

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ENTERTAINMENT

Audio Programming Audio Mixes

132

Featuring songs by Roy Orbison, Cream, Fleetwood Mac and more

Featuring songs by Meat Loaf, Toto, Cheap Trick and more

Featuring songs by Duran Duran, Tiffany, Starship and more

Featuring songs by Brian Eno, Enya, Runestone and more

Featuring a chronology of Michael Jackson songs

Featuring compositions performed by orchestras from New York to Stuttgart

Featuring songs by Martina McBride, Trace Adkins, Toby Keith and more

Featuring Chinese popular music including cantopop and mandopop

Featuring songs by DJ Fresh, David Guetta, Duck Sauce and more

Featuring songs by Joss Stone, Snow Patrol, Josh Groban and more

Featuring songs by Ella Fitzgerald, Julie London, George Benson and more

Featuring songs by Exile, AKB48, Sukima Switch and more

Featuring songs by Johnny Pacheco, Sergio Mendes and more

Featuring songs by Paramore, Foo Fighters, Sublime With Rome and more

Featuring songs by Akon, Jordin Sparks, John Legend and more

Featuring songs by Elvis Presley, Bobby Darin, the Shirelles and more

Featuring songs by Miley Cyrus, Justin Bieber, Selena Gomez and more

Featuring songs by Adele, BeyoncĂŠ, Lady Gaga and more

Featuring songs by Femi Kuti, Annie Trousseau, Balkan Beat Box and more

NOVEMBER 2011 â&#x20AC;˘ HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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CHANNEL 9 Listen for your flight number to hear live communication between the flight deck and FAA air traffic control. This feature, unique to United, may not be available on all flights, including oceanic crossings with limited audio communication. Available at your captain’s discretion.

Audio Channels by Aircra CHANNEL

777*

SELECT A320

A319 & A320

747

737 & 757-300

757 & 767*

1

Movie (English)

Movie (English)

Movie (English)

Movie (English)

Movie (English)

Movie (English)

2

Today’s hits

Today’s hits

Today’s hits

Movie (Dubbed)

Today’s hits

Today’s hits

3

R&B

R&B

R&B

Movie (Dubbed)

R&B

R&B

4 5 6 7 8

Classical

’60s

Classical

Classical

Classical

Classical

Country

Country

Country

Country

Country

Country

’60s

Classical

—

’60s

’60s

’60s

’70s

’70s

—

’70s

’70s

’70s

’80s

’80s

—

’80s

’80s

’80s

9

From the flight deck

From the flight deck

From the flight deck

From the flight deck or R&B

—

From the flight deck or modern rock

10

Movie (Dubbed)

Movie (Dubbed)

Movie (Dubbed)

Today’s hits

Movie (Dubbed)

Movie (Dubbed)

11

Modern rock

Modern rock

’60s

Teen pop

Modern rock

—

12

Latin

Latin

’70s

World

Latin or J-pop on Micronesia flights

—

13 14 15 16 17 18 19

Dance

Dance

’80s

J-pop

—

—

Ambient

Ambient

Modern rock

C-pop

—

—

Artist spotlight

Artist spotlight

Artist spotlight

—

—

—

Jazz

—

—

—

—

—

J-pop

—

—

—

—

—

Easy listening

—

—

—

—

—

Teen pop

—

—

—

—

—

*For aircraft with seatback entertainment, please refer to the Play guide for audio selections.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • NOVEMBER 2011

p132-133_HEM1111_Audio.indd 133

133

05/10/2011 10:14

ENTERTAINMENT

ALL THEME CLUES ARE IN BOLD If you fill in the crossword, please take the magazine with you so it’s replaced.

Answers found on page 60.

Crossword OPPOSITES ATTRACT

BY GREG BRUCE

NOVEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

ACROSS 1 Apostolical 6 Physics calculation 10 Retire from military service 15 “Say ___!”

19 Without company 20 Atop 21 In the know 22 Place for an ace 23 Small sample 24 Widespread 25 Excellence 26 Look at flirtatiously 27 Curling surface 28 Drug 30 Fella 32 Young Egyptian king 33 Creole vegetable 35 Part of w.p.m.

36 Reiterate 40 Game tally 42 Sprite 44 First-rate 45 Bath alternative 46 “It’s your ___” 48 All fired up 49 G-rated 50 Cart 51 Small stream 54 ___ and tie 55 Seethe 56 Lasso loop 57 Varnish ingredient 58 Object of devotion 62 Stumble 63 Program that runs in the background 66 Shows appreciation to 69 Paris’ ___ La Fayette 70 Calphalon product 71 Arctic ___ 72 Host 73 Graffiti, to some 74 A pint, maybe 75 Eye bank donation 77 Nikon or Canon 78 Winter bug 79 Elusive creature 81 Bubkes 82 Had control of the wheel 84 “Cut it out!”

p134-136_HEM1111_Puzzles.indd 134

85 87 89 90 91 92 94 96 97 98 99 101 102 106 107 109 112 113 115 118 119 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128

Lace mat Frogmen Still-life piece Bad way to play Bird of peace Joined by treaty or agreement Went boldly Sandwich go-to Inflexible Box Breakfast cereal Large vat Band member Monopolize Mouth part Summer wear Bother Clickable image “Likewise” Hourglass filler Get off one’s behind “Beat it!”

Great fear Fertilizer compound ’60s protest Darn Marsh plant Whirling water Out of gas

DOWN 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 29 31 34

Place for a barbecue “Dear me!”

Model Picnic crasher Popular jeans Manslayer Queen’s home Overly lenient Contemptuous look Beaver’s work Lamb’s kin Aggie, for one Projecting window Phi ___ Kappa Reporter’s question Old Toronto nickname Charm Move unsteadily Like some proportions Groom’s man Run ___ of

Overhangs Bowl with a lid Cut off Cousin of a raccoon Be bedridden City ___ Bach piece Cafeteria workers’ wear Soon, to a poet Last ___ Lacking in courage Not a soul Clink Make good on Conscript “___ ___ in the Attic” museum, Amsterdam 61 Slow down

37 38 39 41 43 45 46 47 48 49 52 53 54 55 59 60

63 Elmer, to Bugs 64 Highly poisonous plant species 65 Spookily 67 Throw with effort 68 Caribbean or Mediterranean, e.g.

76 Extras 77 Place to moor a boat 80 Dostoyevsky novel, with “The” 83 Competitor 84 Prompt 86 Command 88 Sabbatum 89 Little toymaker 90 Soldier in the mounted infantry, once

91 93 94 95 96 97 99 100 103 104 105 108 110 111 114 116 117 120

Directly Fluff Discord can lead to this Cough drop Like some ottomans Pelted with rocks Wavelike pattern Matter of debate Join forces Place to wash up Ticket seller “What are the ___?”

Like a diamond Back talk Doze (off) It’s game “___ to Billie Joe” Upholstery problem

CROSSWORD BY GREG BRUCE © PUZPUZ PUZZLES

134

07/10/2011 10:42

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1. EASY

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No.31409_Samsonite 1pp.indd 1

27/09/2011 11:57

8:00 pm 9:00 pm 10:00 pm

7:00 pm

12:00 MON.

11:00 pm

1:00 am

12:00 SUN.

2:00 am

ARCTIC OCEAN

3:00 am

5:00 am

6:00 am

7:00 am

8:00 am

9:00 am

11:00 am

10:00 am

Route lines do not reflect actual flight path

United/United Express/ Continental/Continental Express/ RUSSIA Continental Connection Route

ARCTIC OCEAN

Lulea Reykjavik

ICELAND

NORWAY

Anchorage

UNITED KINGDOM

Khabarovsk Seattle Harbin

U.S.A.

Sapporo

Shenyang

JAPAN

N. KOREA

Beijing

Pyongyang

Dalian

Tianjin

CHICAGO (O’HARE)

Niigata

Sendai

SAN FRANCISCO

Komatsu Seoul S. KOREA TOKYO Qingdao Pusan Fukuoka Osaka Nagoya Nanjing Cheju Okayama Hefei Nagasaki Shanghai Hiroshima Chengdu Wuhan Kumamoto Kochi Oita 6:00 Ningbo Kagoshima Hangzhou Chongqing Matsuyama Changsha Wenzhou Miyazaki Guiyang Fuzhou Guangzhou Okinawa BHUTAN Taipei Kunming Xiamen Guilin BANGLADESH Nanning Macau Shenzhen Ishigaki Hanoi BURMA Hong Kong TAIWAN Chiang Rai LAOS Haikou Chiang Mai Vientiane 9:00 pm THAILAND Yangon South China Khon Kaen Sea Saipan Luzon Island Bangkok Manila Zhengzhou

CAMBODIA VIETNAM Phnom Penh

Krabi Phuket Hat Yai Penang

PHILIPPINES

GUAM

MARSHALL ISLANDS Kwajalein

Yap Pohnpei

Kota Kinabalu

MALAYSIA

Chihuahua

Chuuk (Truk)

Palau

Bandar Seri Begawan

Kuala Lumpur

Majuro

D

O

N

HOUSTON (INTERCONTINENTAL)

Honolulu

S

I

Jakarta

ALGERIA

Sal CAPE VERDE ISLANDS

Dakar Banjul

GUINEA BISSAU

SENEGAL

GAMBIA

Bissau GUINEA

Conakry Freetown

SIERRA LEONE

Monrovia LIBERIA

Manaus

Kuwait

Fortaleza

NIGER

BENIN TOGO

BRAZIL

Khartoum

CAMEROON CENTRAL AFRICAN REPUBLIC Douala

Accra Lome Abidjan Malabo

Coral Sea

Apia

WESTERN SAMOA

Port Vila

FIJI

Cairns

EQUATORIAL GUINEA

Sao Tome SAO TOME & PRINCIPE

Nadi

to San Francisco

1:00 Norfolk Island

Gold Coast

9:30 pm

Adelaide

Sydney

Tasman Sea

Melbourne

Auckland Hamilton Nelson

NEW ZEALAND Queenstown

Route lines reflect flights operated by United Airlines, Continental Airlines, Inc. and/or their regional partners. For accurate flight schedules, please see www.united.com or www.continental.com. © 2011 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

p139-144_HEM1111_Routemaps.indd 145

Campo Grande

Noumea

Perth

8:00 pm

CHILE

Rarotonga

9:00 pm

11:00 pm

to Cleveland

to Los Angeles

HOUSTON (INTERCONTINENTAL) Hermosillo San Austin Chihuahua Antonio Guaymas Saltillo Monterrey Torreon Durango MEXICO

Rotorua Napier-Hastings

Los Cabos

TANZANIA

Tampico Aguascalientes

to New York (Newark)

Christchurch Dunedin

to Washington (Dulles)

Rio de Janeiro

Windhoek

SRI LANKA

Gaborone

ARGENTINA

Porto Alegre

Santiago

Havana

Santiago Samana Santo Domingo Aguadilla San Juan St. Thomas

1:00 am

2:00 am

3:00 am

4:00 am

5:00 am

Montevideo Buenos Aires

VENEZUELA

6:00 am

7:00 am

8:00 am

9:00 am

4:00 pm

6:00 pm

5:00 pm

NORWAY

Bergen

Oslo SWEDEN

FINLAND

Helsinki

Stockholm

Manzini SCOTLAND

ESTONIA

Stavanger

MOZAMBIQUE

MADAGASCAR Aberdeen

Maputo

Aalborg DENMARK

Aarhus Billund Esbjerg

LATVIA

Riga

Copenhagen Palanga LITHUANIA Malmo Newcastle RUSSIA Vilnius Gdansk Kaliningrad Groningen Bremen Hamburg Leeds POLAND SOUTH AFRICA BELARUS LESOTHO Manchester East London Dublin WALES Berlin ENGLAND NETH. Hannover Cape Town Shannon Birmingham Amsterdam Warsaw Port Muenster Elizabeth Cork GERMANY Leipzig BELGIUM London Dresden Bristol London Brussels Prague (Gatwick) Katowice Cologne UKRAINE Frankfurt CZECH Luxembourg Nuremberg REPUBLIC SLOVAKIA Stuttgart Munich Paris Salzburg Basel Linz Vienna Budapest FRANCE AUSTRIA Friedrichshafen Klagenfurt Cluj-Napoca SWITZ. Ljubljana Lyon Verona Venice Zagreb Bucharest TriesteBOS. ROMANIA Turin Milan Bologna HERZ. Belgrade Genoa Florence Toulouse SERBIA Sarajevo La Coruna BULGARIA Marseille Nice Pisa Ancona KOS. Bilbao Sofia Skopje Istanbul Rome ALBANIA MAC. SPAIN Porto Naples ITALY Thessaloniki Madrid PORTUGAL Valencia Alexandroupolis Palma GREECE Ibiza La Romana Palermo Alicante Lisbon Mediterranean Sea Izmir Sevilla Mikonos Granada Faro Rhodes MALTA Luga Heraklion Bloemfontein Maseru

URUGUAY

Nassau

INDIAN OCEAN

SEYCHELLES

Dar Es Salaam

MALAWI

Glasgow

Johannesburg

Curitiba Florianopolis

Bermuda

MALDIVES Mahé

Atlantic Lilongwe Harare Ocean

BOTSWANA

Iguassu Falls

Cordoba

COLOMBIA

12:00 MIDNIGHT

PARAGUAY

to to New York New York (La Guardia) (Newark)

Coimbatore

COMOROS

ZIMBABWE

NAMIBIA

Bangalore Chennai (Madras)

Kozhikode Cochin Trivandrum

3:00 pm

ZAMBIA Lusaka

Providenciales Queretaro Cozumel Puerto Mexico City Plata Veracruz Ciudad del Grand Cayman Puerto Vallarta St. Maarten Carmen Manzanillo Montego Puebla Port-auBelize Bay Guadalajara Antigua Kingston Prince Punta Cana St. Kitts Roatan Oaxaca Pointe a Pitre Morelia Toluca Huatulco Martinique San Pedro Sula St. Lucia Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo Tegucigalpa Villahermosa San Andres Barbados Aruba Island Bonaire Acapulco Grenada Guatemala City NIC. Tobago San Salvador COSTA Caracas Port-of-Spain Managua RICA Panama City PACIFIC OCEAN Liberia PANAMA

Palmerstown North Wellington Blenheim

World time zones shown in Standard Time.

10:00 pm

to Denver

Mangalore

BURUNDI

2:00 pm ANGOLA

Belo Horizonte

Goa

Arabian Sea

Nairobi

RWANDA

10:00 am

Brasilia Goiania

Santa Cruz

Papeete

Niue

NEW CALEDONIA Brisbane

7:00 pm

FRENCH POLYNESIA

BOLIVIA

YEMEN

KENYA

Bujumbura

Agartala

Colombo

Kigali

Kinshasa

Kolkata

Pune

SOMALIA

UGANDA

Libreville GABON CONGO

Recife

Salvador Cuzco

Nuku’ Alofa

AUSTRALIA

6:00 pm

Lima

Pago Pago

Mumbai

BANG.

Dhaka

ETHIOPIA

Juba

DEM. REP. CONGO

Yaounde

BHUTAN

4:00 pm

Addis Ababa

Luanda

Darwin

OMAN

NIGERIA

Lubumbashi

INDIAN OCEAN

Islamabad Jammu Peshawar 4:30 Lahore Amritsar Guwahati Chandigarh Kathmandu 5:00 Delhi NEPAL

DJIBOUTI

Abuja Cotonou Port Harcourt GHANA Lagos

Denpasar Bali

AFGHAN.

QATAR

Sanaa

Asmara

SUDAN

Kano

TAJIKISTAN

Jaipur Lucknow Dubai Karachi Indore 5:30 Patna Abu Dhabi U. A. E. INDIA Muscat Ahmedabad Raipur Nagpur

Bahrain Riyadh Doha

ERITREA

CHAD

1:00 pm BURKINA Ouagadougou FASO

3:30

KYRGYZSTAN

Dushanbe

PAKISTAN

Dammam

Luxor

SAUDI ARABIA

Pointe Noire

PERU

Amman

EGYPT

MALI

5:00 Tashkent

IRAN

JORDAN

Alma-Ata Bishkek

UZBEKISTAN

Baku

Jeddah

ATLANTIC OCEAN

Guayaquil

GEORGIATbilisi

2:00 pm

LIBYA

MAURITANIA

ECUADOR

PAPUA NEW GUINEA

C

Krasnodar

Benghazi Alexandria ISRAEL

WESTERN SAHARA

Quito

PACIFIC OCEAN

6:00 pm KAZAKHSTAN

Donetzk

TURKEY

Izmir

Cairo

Tenerife Las Palmas

FRENCH GUIANA

Cali

A

Oran

4:00

Istanbul

GREECE

CANARY ISLANDS

COLOMBIA

E

Nador

Ekaterinburg

Batumi ARMENIA Ankara AZER. TURKMENISTAN Yerevan Antalya Athens Ashgabat Larnaca Erbil Tunis Malta Ercan Rhodes SYRIA CYPRUS Mashad Beirut Tehran IRAQ TUNISIA Mediterranean Sea LEBANON Damascus Baghdad Tripoli Tel Aviv

Funchal

Bermuda

Saltillo Monterrey Torreon Nassau Santo Domingo Durango MEXICO Tampico Los Cabos Aguadilla Aguascalientes Providenciales San Juan Queretaro Cozumel Puerto Mexico City St. Thomas Plata Veracruz Ciudad del Grand Cayman Puerto Vallarta St. Maarten Manzanillo Carmen Puebla Montego Port-auBelize Guadalajara Antigua Bay Ponce Prince Punta Oaxaca Tuxtla Roatan Cana Morelia Toluca Huatulco Gutiérrez San Pedro Sula Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo Tegucigalpa Villahermosa Aruba Bonaire Acapulco Guatemala City NIC. Panama Port-of-Spain San Salvador COSTACity Caracas Managua RICA Maracaibo Valencia PANAMA Liberia Cartagena VENEZUELA SURINAME Bucaramanga GUYANA Medellin

Singapore

N

12:00

Moscow

Black Sea

Skopje Tirana

ALB.

MOROCCO

Kosrae

BRUNEI I

Austin San Antonio

Rome

Algiers

Casablanca

Orange County

Cebu

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES)

DENVER

HER. SERB. Sofia KOS. MONT.

5:00 pm

4:00

Manchester

Madrid

Lisbon

Horta

LOS ANGELES

International Date Line

5:30

Edinburgh

Barcelona

PORTUGAL

NEW YORK (NEWARK)

RUSSIA

St. Petersburg

Tallinn

Stockholm

SPAIN

New York (La Guardia)

CLEVELAND

FINLAND Helsinki

n Sea pia as

Changchun

8:00 pm

Oulu

2:00 pm

Riga LAT. Copenhagen LITH. Malmo Vilnius Belfast Hamburg Gdansk Minsk Dublin Amsterdam BELARUS Berlin Shannon GERMANY Warsaw Brussels POLAND Birmingham Kiev London Krakow Frankfurt Stuttgart UKRAINE Kosice Munich Paris MOLDOVA Chisinau AUSTRIA SWITZ. ROMANIA FRANCE Odessa Geneva Milan Belgrade Bucharest BOS.-

CANADA

2:00

Turku

Oslo

Hudson Bay

9:30

0

Umea Trondheim Ostersund Kristiansund Vaasa Molde SWEDEN

Glasgow

Ulaanbataar

Alta

GREENLAND ALASKA (U.S.)

8:00 pm

MONGOLIA

3:00 pm

2:00 pm

Tromso

United/Continental Seasonal Service United/Continental Future Service CITY United/Continental Hub (Red All Caps) Cities served Cities served by select airline partners Time zone boundary

INTERNATIONAL CITIES

Baotou

1:00 pm

MIDNIGHT

Route Maps

CHINA

12:00 pm

4:00 am

10:00 am

11:00 am

12:00 NOON

1:00 pm

Edinburgh

SWAZILAND NORTHERN IRELAND UNITED Belfast DurbanKINGDOM IRELAND

1111

05/10/2011 10:18

Cullaton Lake Ennadai Lake Prince Rupert Sand Spit

INFORMATION

Route Maps

Smithers Terrace Fort St. John

Route lines do not reflect actual flight path

Prince George

United/United Express/ Continental/Continental Express/ Continental Connection Route

Grande Prairie

CA NA DA

to Anchorage

Pacific Time Zone B R I T I S H 4:00

COLUMBIA

Mountain Time Zone 5:00

Kamloops

Vancouver

Nanaimo

Victoria

Goose Bay

U.S. I-94 Arrival/Departure Record

Edmonton

Central Time Zone 6:00

A L B E R TA

Kelowna Penticton

Customs & Immigration

United/Continental Seasonal Service United/Continental Future Service CITY United/Continental Hub (Red All Caps) Cities served Cities served by select airline partners Time zone boundary

NORTH AMERICAN CITIES Fort McMurray

Calgary

Newfoundland Time Zone 8:30

Wabush

MANITOBA

Gander

Deer Lake NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR

S A S K AT C H E WA N

Saskatoon Castlegar Cranbrook Lethbridge Medicine Hat Spokane Kalispell

Seattle

WA S H I N GT O N

Pasco

Missoula

Eugene

Helena North Bend

Redmond OREGON

Medford Crescent City Eureka

I DA H O

Bozeman

Boise

Redding

Minot MINNE SOTA

Dickinson Bismarck Fargo

Timmins Rouyn-Noranda

Pierre Huron

Bangor Bar Harbor

Plattsburgh Burlington Kingston

Traverse City Toronto

N E W YO R K

Syracuse

Sioux Falls

Casper Chadron W YO M I N G

Killeen

LOUISIANA

College Station Alexandria

Austin

Honolulu Kapalua

Kahului

Del Rio

Maui

HOUSTON San Antonio (INTERCONTINENTAL) Victoria

Pacific Ocean

0 0

50 50

100

100 150

Kona

Beaumont/ Pt. Arthur

Hilo

150 Miles 100

0

200

300

400 Miles

McAllen

Tallahassee

N OVA SCOTIA

Harlingen Brownsville

U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) offers the Global Entry™ program in order to expedite the processing of preapproved, low-risk international travelers entering the U.S. Upon returning from international travel, Global Entry™-enrolled travelers may bypass the regular passport control line and proceed to the Global Entry™ kiosk. Global Entry™ program participants scan their machine-readable passport, U.S. permanent resident card or U.S. visa on the kiosk, place their fingertips on the scanner for fingerprint verification and make a customs declaration.

The kiosk will issue the traveler a transaction receipt and direct the traveler to baggage claim and exit.

100

200

300

400

500

The following travelers are eligible for enrollment in Global Entry™: • Citizens and residents of the U.S. • Citizens of Mexico who hold a U.S. visa • Citizens of the Netherlands who are enrolled in Privium • NEXUS members • SENTRI members Application for enrollment in the Global Entry™ program is available at the Global On-Line Enrollment System (GOES): goes-app.cbp.dhs.gov. It costs only US$100, which covers enrollment in the program for a five-year period. The government will review the applicant’s information while a background investigation is conducted. Applicants undergo an interview with CBP officers at an Enrollment Center in the U.S. before final approval is granted.

BERMUDA

Global Entry™ is available in the following cities: Atlanta (ATL), Boston (BOS), Chicago (ORD-O’Hare), Dallas (DFW), Detroit (DTW), Ft. Lauderdale (FLL), Honolulu (HNL), Houston (IAH-Intercontinental), Las Vegas (LAS), Los Angeles (LAX), Miami (MIA), New York (JFK), Newark (EWR-Liberty), Orlando (MCO-International and SFB-Sanford), Ottawa (YOW), Philadelphia (PHL), Seattle (SEA), San Francisco (SFO), San Juan (SJU), Toronto (YYZ), Washington, DC (IAD-Dulles) and Vancouver (YVR).

OnePass Eligible Service

Boston

F L O R I DA

Orlando Melbourne

Ft. Myers

Treasure Cay Marsh Harbour Ft. Lauderdale/Hollywood North Eleuthera Governors Harbour Miami Bimini Nassau Andros Town Cat Island

MEXICO

Freeport

BAHAMAS

Key West 0

CBP Form I-94 (05/08) OMB No. 1651-0111

Arrival Record Admission Number

000000000 00

1. Family Name 3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 5. Sex (Male or Female)

6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY)

7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY)

8. Passport Number

9. Airline and Flight Number

10. Country Where You Live

11. Country Where You Boarded

12. City Where Visa Was Issued

13. Date Issued (DD/MM/YY)

14. Address While in the United States (Number and Street) 15. City and State 16. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached 17. Email Address

CBP Form I-94 (05/08)

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection

OMB No. 1651-0111

Departure Record Admission Number

000000000 00

Expedited Passport Control and Customs Clearance in the U.S.—Global Entry™

Manchester

Gainesville Daytona

Sarasota/Bradenton West Palm Beach

Gulf Of Mexico

5 U.S.C. § 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code, including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and 8 CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The information solicited on this form may be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the United States and result in your removal.

All passengers (or one passenger per family) are required to complete a Customs Declaration before arrival in the U.S. Write in English, in capital letters. Be sure to include the street name and number, city and state of your address in the U.S. If you are transiting through the U.S., you may write TRANSIT and your final destination country. Please read both sides of the declaration and place your signature at the bottom of the form.

Portland

N.H.

Jacksonville

Tampa/St. Petersburg Corpus Christi

Item 9 - If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space.

18. Family Name 19. First (Given) Name

20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)

21. Country of Citizenship

CBP Form I-94 (05/08) See Other Side

STAPLE HERE

Left, U.S. Customs Declaration; right, U.S. I-94 form, which all U.S. visa holders must complete.

Countries participating in the U.S. Visa Waiver Program (VWP): Andorra Australia Austria Belgium Brunei Czech Republic Denmark Estonia Finland France Germany Greece Hungary

Iceland Ireland Italy Japan Latvia Liechtenstein Lithuania Luxembourg Malta Monaco Netherlands New Zealand Norway

Portugal San Marino Singapore Slovakia Slovenia South Korea Spain Sweden Switzerland United Kingdom (British citizen or with unrestricted right of abode)

Codeshare / OnePass Service

Pensacola

Ft. Walton Gulfport/ Beach New Biloxi Orleans

Laredo Route lines reflect flights operated by United Airlines, Continental Airlines, Inc. and/or their regional partners. For accurate flight schedules, please see www.united.com or www.continental.com. © 2011 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

200 Kilometers

Lake Charles Lafayette

Atlantic Time Zone 8:00

Train Routes

Baton Rouge

When all items are completed, present this form to the CBP Officer.

V T.

MISSISSIPPI

Mobile

This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 17) and the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21).

U.S. Customs Declaration

Halifax

Albany Midland/ Boston Rochester Ithaca Muskegon Grand Saginaw Sarnia Buffalo/ Hartford/M A S S . Hyannis Sacramento Reno/Tahoe Rock Springs Milwaukee Rapids Niagara Falls Binghamton SpringfieldR.I. Flint I OWA Nantucket C.T. Providence Newburgh London JamestownElmira Scottsbluff Oakland Lansing SAN FRANCISCO Madison Salt Lake City Wilkes Barre/ Alliance New Haven Modesto White Detroit Windsor Laramie South Erie Bradford Scranton San Jose Long Island/Islip Vernal Hayden/ Plains NEBRASKA Cedar Mammoth Lakes Cheyenne Bend/Elkhart/ CLEVELAND New York (La Guardia) FranklinClearfieldWilliamsport Rapids/ Mishawaka Omaha Steamboat Fresno N.J. North Platte U TA H (J.F. Kennedy) Des PA Iowa City State Akron/Canton COLORADO Monterey Allentown NEW YORK (NEWARK) Grand Springs Moines Dubois College Visalia OHIO Peoria Junction Vail/Eagle DENVER Ft. Kearney Pittsburgh CA L I F O R N I A Moline Harrisburg Philadelphia Lincoln Moab Wayne Columbus Johnstown Aspen McCook Baltimore Altoona ILLINOIS Inyokern I N D I A NA Morgantown Colorado Springs St. George MARYLAND D E L .

San Luis Obispo Montrose Dayton Gunnison/ Bakersfield WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES) Clarksburg Springfield Crested Indianapolis Hays Las Vegas Telluride Parkersburg Shenandoah Salisbury Butte Santa Maria Page/ Cincinnati WV Valley (Reagan National) Cortez Pueblo Durango K A N S A S Kansas City Lake Powell St. Louis Santa Barbara Charlottesville Burbank Huntington Charleston Louisville Alamosa Garden City Lewisburg Richmond Farmington Great Bend LOS ANGELES Long Beach Lexington Beckley Lynchburg Ontario Dodge City Norfolk/Virginia Beach Flagstaff Wichita Orange County Roanoke V I R G I N I A KENTUCKY Newport News/Williamsburg Liberal A R I Z O NA Springfield Carlsbad Tri-Cities Regional Prescott Greensboro/High Point/Winston-Salem Palm Springs Raleigh/Durham NORTH M I S S O U R I Paducah Amarillo Show Low Tulsa San Diego Knoxville CA R O L I NA Albuquerque Nashville Imperial Northwest Greenville New Bern Phoenix/Scottsdale Oklahoma City Charlotte Arkansas Asheville Fayetteville/Ft. Bragg TENNESSEE Yuma ARKANSAS Greenville/ Jacksonville OKLAHOMA Spartanburg Chattanooga Memphis Lubbock Little NEW MEXICO Wilmington Tucson Rock Huntsville/ Columbia Florence Myrtle Beach Decatur SOUTH Atlanta CA R O L I NA Hobbs Charleston Dallas/ Augusta Birmingham El Paso Fort Worth Dallas (Love) Hilton Head Island Monroe Midland/ ATLANTIC Montgomery GEORGIA Odessa Jackson Shreveport TEXAS Savannah A L A BA M A Waco OCEAN Tyler Riverton

N E VA DA

Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. Use English. Do not write on the back of this form.

2. First (Given) Name

Ottawa

M I C H I GA N

Appleton/ Fox Cities

MAINE

North Bay

Sault Ste. Marie

Wausau Minneapolis Eau Claire Green Bay

Fredericton

City

Sudbury

Houghton

Duluth

Moncton

Saint John

WISCONSIN

SOUTH Gillette Rapid City DA KO TA

U N I T E D S TAT E S

Presque Isle

O N TA R I O

Sheridan

Worland Jackson Hole

Chico

Thunder Bay

NORTH DA KO TA

Billings

Cody/ Yellowstone Idaho Falls

Klamath Falls

Eastern Time Zone 7:00

OMB No. 1651-0111

Welcome to the United States I-94 Arrival/Departure Record Instructions This form must be completed by all persons except U.S. Citizens, returning resident aliens, aliens with immigrant visas, and Canadian Citizens visiting or in transit.

4. Country of Citizenship

P R I N C E E DWAR D Sydney NEW ISLAND B RU N SW I C K Charlottetown

Saguenay

Williston

Lewistown M O N TA NA

Îles de la Madeliene

Bathurst

Glasgow Great Falls

Gulf Of St. Lawrence

Mont-Joli

Regina Winnipeg

Portland

PACIFIC OCEAN

Gaspe Baie-Comeau

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection

All travelers who hold a U.S. visa are required to complete an I-94 Arrival/Departure Record (one per person, including infants). Write in English, in capital letters. Be sure to include the street name and number, city and state of your address in the U.S. If you are transiting through the U.S., you may write TRANSIT and your final destination country. The Customs and Border Protection officer will place the I-94 Departure Record in your passport after inspection. Make sure you return the Departure Record to the airline representative before boarding your return flight.

Newark (Liberty)

New Haven Stamford New York (Penn Station)

Philadelphia Wilmington Washington, DC

Australia Brunei Hong Kong (SAR; with HKG identity card)

Japan

For detailed information, go to the U.S. Customs and Border Protection site, globalentry.gov.

ATLANTIC OCEAN

George Town

600 Kilometers

Countries participating in the Guam-CNMI Visa Waiver Program (VWP):

1111

144

Malaysia Nauru New Zealand Papua New Guinea Singapore South Korea

Taiwan (direct flight to Guam with passport and national ID card)

United Kingdom (including BNO)

NOVEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

CUBA

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Our Fleet

787 UPDATE United has always been at the forefront of aviation developments; the first airline to operate both the 767 and 777, United will also be the first North American airline to put into service the revolutionary Boeing 787 Dreamliner.

The 787’s innovative design will provide an unrivaled level of comfort. Larger windows offer a view to the horizon from any seat on the airplane, while a quieter cabin helps passengers feel less fatigued when they arrive at their final destination. Sweeping arches arc and more natural light create a feeling of spaciousness. Additionally, the overhead bins are the largest in the industry, enabling every passenger to fit a standard-size carry-on bag inside them.

Fleet Facts AIRCRAFT

CRUISE SPEED CAPACITY

PROPULSION

WINGSPAN

747-400

777-200/ -200ER

767-200ER/ -300ER/ -400ER

757-200/ -300

737-500/ -700/-800/ -900/-900ER

A319/A320

567 mph

550 mph

540 mph

540 mph

530 mph

530 mph

374 passengers (12/52/310)

Between 253 and 348 passengers (10/45/198) (12/49/197) (8/40/221) (50/226) (36/312)

Between 174 and 244 passengers (25/149) (6/26/151) (35/200) (34/210)

Between 110 and 216 passengers (12/26/72) (16/159) (24/158) (24/192)

Between 114 and 173 passengers (8/106) (12/112) (16/144) (20/153)

Between 120 and 144 passengers (8/112) (12/126) (12/132)

Four Pratt & Whitney PW4062 turbofan engines, rated up to 63,300 pounds thrust each

Two General Electric GE90 or two Pratt & Whitney PW4077/4090 turbofan engines, rated up to 94,000 pounds thrust each

Two General Electric CF680C2B or Pratt & Whitney PW4060 turbofan engines, rated up to 63,300 pounds thrust each

Two Rolls-Royce RB211-535 or two Pratt & Whitney PW2040 turbofan engines, rated up to 43,700 pounds thrust each

Two General Electric CFM56 turbofan engines, rated up to 26,400 pounds thrust each

Two IAE V2500-A5 turbofan engines, rated up to 27,000 pounds thrust each

211 ft., 5 in.

199 ft., 11 in.

Up to 170 ft., 4 in.

134 ft., 9 in.

Up to 117 ft., 5 in.

111 ft., 11 in.

PRODUCT INVESTMENT United recently announced an investment of more than $500 million to enhance our customers’ flying experience. We plan to roll out more flat-bed seats in our United First and United Business cabins, further solidifying our position as the North American carrier with the most flat-bed seats. In addition, we will be adding Wi-Fi to more than 200 Boeing 737 and 757 aircraft as well as expanding Economy Plus across the entire mainline fleet.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • NOVEMBER 2011

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INFORMATION

Terminal Diagrams

IAH | HOUSTON GEORGE BUSH INTERCONTINENTAL AIRPORT TERMINAL C Continental United United Express

TERMINAL A TERMINAL B Continental Express United Express B86

B85A B85 B84A-S

B87 B88

C17

C20

C16

C21

C15

C22

C14

TERMINAL D Continental Lufthansa Singapore Airlines

USO

2 D1

0

1

D1

D1

D8

D9

D6 A

D7

D5

D6

D4

Station

D4

A

C23 D3

B86A

5

A2 A1

B79 B77A B77 B76A B76

C19

C2 4

Bus Station (A2)

B80 B81A B81 B83A B83

B79A

North Concourse

C2

A14 A12 A10

A15 A11 A9 A8 A7

C18

C2 6

Continental Connection Air Canada

D1 D2

(North Concourse)

C27

TerminaLink Connects Terminals A, B, C, D, & E via train

Station Station International Arrivals

A17

(Lower Level)

South Concourse

C42

C35

C41

C36

C40

E1

E1

E1

E2

E23

E15 E9

E3

C37

4

1

0 E1

E1

2

E24

5

4 C4

C4

C34

C4

3

C29 3

B67 B66 B65 B64 B63A B63

C3

B60 B61 B62 B62A

2

B75 B74 B73 B72A B72

C3

A20 TERMINAL A (South Concourse) US Airways

B68 B69 B70 B71 B71A

1

A19

0

A24

C3

A18

A25

C3

A26

(Lower Level)

E4

E8

E5

E7

TERMINAL E Continental

E16

E22

E17

E21

E18

E6

C39

E20 E19

EWR | NEW YORK/NEWARK LIBERTY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

TERMINAL C

B3

B2

B1

TERMINAL A Continental Express United United Express Air Canada US Airways

TERMINAL C Continental Continental International Arrivals Continental Connection

P4

146

Newark Liberty International Airport Station — Connection with Amtrak and New Jersey Transit

X 26 A/ /26 26 A2 25/25A

128 139 138 137 136 135 134 133

127 126 125 124 123 122 121 120 2 13 131 130

98 99 97 96 94 95 92 91 80

115 114 112 110 108 104 102

113 111 109 107 105 103 101

81 83 85 87 88

90 72 75

70 71

73

82 84

86

74

(Upper Level)

17 16

4A /2 24 A 23/23 20/20A

TERMINAL B Continental International Arrivals EVA Air LOT Polish Airlines Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines Singapore Airlines SWISS TAP Portugal AirTrain Virgin Atlantic

28/28A 27/ 27A

A3

A1

P1, P2, P3

(Lower Level)

Continental Express flights may arrive/depart at Terminal C.

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ORD | CHICAGO/O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Concourse E Concourse C

TE R M I N A L 3

Concourse L

Concourse C C28-C39

C40-C50 B5 9 B6 1 B6 3 B6 5 B6 7 B6 9 B7 1 B7 3 B7 5

Train

B8 1 B8 3 B8 5 B8 7 B8 9 B9 1

B7

9

B77

B93 B95

Concourse A

B8 B80 B82 B84 B86 B98 B90 2 B9 4

Concourse K

Continental United United Express US Airways

B3 9 B4 1 B4 3 B4 5 B4 7 B4 9 B5 1 B5 3 B5 5 B5 7

Concourse H

Concourse B

B3 8 B4 2 B4 4 B4 6 B4 8 B5 0 B5 2 B5 4 B5 6 B5 8 B6 0

E10

C2 C1 C4 C6 C3 C8 C5 E3 C10 C7 E2A C12 C9 E2 C16 C11 E1A C18 B2 B3B4 C15 E1 C18A B1 C17 B5 C20 B6 C22 C19 B7 C24 C21 B8 C26 (Lower Level) C23 C28 C25 B9 C30 B10 C27 C32 TE R M I N A L 2 B11 C29C31 United Express B12 B13 Air Canada TE R M I N A L 1 B14 US Airways B15 Continental B16 (Gates B1-B4) B17 United B18 B19 United Express B20 Elevated Airport ANA B22 B21 Transport System

Concourse G

B1 5 B1 7 B1 9 B2 1 B2 3 B2 5 B2 7 B2 9 B3 1 B3 3 B3 5 B3 7

F14 F12 F11 F10 F9 F8 F7 F6 F5 F4 F3 F2 F1

B1 6 B1 8 B2 0 B2 2 B2 4 B2 6 B2 8 B3 0 B3 2 B3 4 B3 6

Concourse F

DEN | DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Air Canada Lufthansa

A24-A39

A40-A53 A58-A68

Pedestrian Bridge

Lufthansa

Concourse B TERMINAL WEST

Concourse M

TERMINAL EAST

TE R M I N A L 5 International

United, ANA, Asiana Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa, Scandinavian Airlines, SWISS, Turkish Airlines

SFO | SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

IAD | WASHINGTON/DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

TE R M I N A L 2

Continental United United Express C2-4

78 79

TE R M I N A L 3

77

80 82

85 Secure 89

C6-8

C10-14

C5-7

C9-11

C18-26

C28-30

D2-8

D10-16

D18-26

D28-32

TE R M I N A L 1 US Airways

A2

A4

A6

A3

A5

C17-27 A14

A22

A15

A21

D1-7

D9-11

D15-21

A25

A32

B38-B48

D23-29

72 Gates 20-36

81 83

88 90

C1-3

71

Shuttle

84 86

Continental United United Express

Train

68 76

Continental United United Express

Concourse D

Concourse C

Gates 40-48 Gates 60-67

75

A1

(Lower Level)

Concourse A Continental Express United Express Copa Airlines South African Airways Virgin Atlantic

Walkway G92 G94 G96 G98 G91 G100 G102 G93

87

G101

G95 G97 G99

I N T E R N AT I O N A L TE R M I N A L United, Air Canada, Air China, Air New Zealand, ANA, Asiana Airlines, EVA Air, Lufthansa, Singapore Airlines, SWISS

Gates A1-A12

B35-B51 Shuttle Bus

Z Gates US Airways 1-4

B63-B79

Concourse B ANA Austrian Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines Turkish Airlines

MAIN TERMINAL

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • NOVEMBER 2011

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Terminal Diagrams CONT’D

LAX | LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

CLE | CLEVELAND HOPKINS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Concourse C

TE R M I N A L 3

TE R M I N A L 2 Air Canada Air China Air New Zealand Virgin Atlantic

TE R M I N A L 1 US Airways

C17

C18 12

C16

C19

8 4B

Continental Continental Express United United Express Air Canada

C11

C14

C20

C9

C7

C2

C5

C3

(Lower Level)

C21 C22

TO M B R A D L E Y I N T E R N A T I O N A L TE R M I N A L ANA, Asiana Airlines, EVA Air, Lufthansa, Singapore Airlines, SWISS, THAI, Turkish Airlines

C24

60 62 64 66 68A

67B 69A 69B

80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88

70A

71B

70B

73

72

75A 74 76

75B

68B

77

TE R M I N A L 7 United United Express

TE R M I N A L 6 Continental United Copa Airlines

Fourth Floor 37

41

36

38

45

35

31

33

Third Floor 27

D10

D3 D2

D7 D9 D8

D28

Concourse D Continental Express Continental Connection

D21 D17

US Airways and some Continental international flights arrive at Concourse A.

GUM | GUAM INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

23 22

34

21

Security Checkpoint

North Wing

South Wing TERMINAL 1 Continental United Air Canada Air China 51 ANA 52 53 Asiana Airlines 54 Austrian EGYPTAIR 55 Lufthansa 56 Scandinavian Airlines Singapore Airlines 57 SWISS THAI 58 Turkish Airlines

17

18

16 15

11

12

14

Satellite 1

Café

MAIN TERMINAL Continental

Food Court

11

17

19 21 20

5

6

7

9

8

10

12

14

16

18

B46

Gates D1-D54

B47 B48 B42

B45 B44 B43 B1-B41

Pier B

TERMINAL 1 United (ORD, IAD, SFO, LAX) Aegean Airlines Air New Zealand Asiana Airlines Austrian bmi Brussels Airlines Croatia Airlines LOT Polish Airlines Lufthansa South African Airways SWISS TAM TAP Portugal US Airways

Lufthansa Tower Lounge (Level 5)

B26

Heathrow Express

B25 B24 B22

B10-B20

er C

Gates C1-C9

Pi

Pi

er

A

Pier D

B27 B28 B23

LHR | LONDON/HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Gates A1-A65

Pedestrian Tunnel

Continental United Aegean Airlines Adria Airways Air Canada Air China ANA Asiana Airlines

148

15

Air New Zealand flights arrive/depart at Terminal 2.

Sky Line Train

TE R M I N A L 2

13

4

(Lower Level)

FRA | FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Pier E

(Lower Level) Underground Tunnel

C27

Satellite 2

25

47

Gates E1-E26

C4

D25

TE R M I N A L 8 United United Express

24

26

32 46

C25

D12 D11 D14

NRT | TOKYO/NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 43 42 44

C6

D4 D6 D5 71A

67A

TE R M I N A L 5

C8

C26

61 63 65

TE R M I N A L 4

C10 C29

C23

TE R M I N A L 1

Austrian Croatia Airlines EGYPTAIR LOT Polish Airlines Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines Singapore Airlines

South African Airways Spanair SWISS TAM TAP Portugal THAI Turkish Airlines US Airways

TERMINAL 5

TERMINAL 3 Air Canada Air China ANA Blue1 EGYPTAIR Scandinavian Airlines Singapore Airlines THAI Turkish Airlines Virgin Atlantic

Transfer Shuttle

TERMINAL 4 Continental (EWR, IAH) Gates 1-25

Secureside and non-secureside buses serve all terminals

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INFORMATION

MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT Whether your next flight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, you can use the terminal diagrams on pages 146-148 to plan your connection.

In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters and interterminal transportation.

Safety & Travel Assistance SAFETY INFORMATION NEED TO KNOW Customer safety is our primary concern. Our flight attendants are trained thoroughly in all safety procedures. But as expert as they are, in the event of an emergency they need help from you, the customer. You should be aware of the following:

NEVER PERMITTED The Federal Aviation Administration and the Transportation Security Administration prohibit hazardous materials in either checked or carry-on baggage.

Substantial fines can be imposed for violations.

EXIT Location of the nearest emergency exit

The correct procedure for exiting the cabin in an emergency

Where your oxygen mask will appear, how to start the oxygen flow and how to use the mask

Please look carefully at the safety information card located in the seat pocket in front of you

Liquid and solid explosives

Flammable gases and compressed gas

Radioactive and magnetic materials, corrosive and oxidizing agents

Poisons

Smoking is not permitted. Federal law imposes fines of $1,000 for smoking and up to $2,200 for any attempt to disable an aircraft’s smoke detectors. We prohibit the use of electronic simulated smoking devices (cigarettes, pipes, cigars, etc.) on our flights.

It is a violation of federal regulations to drink alcoholic beverages during a flight unless they are served by our personnel.

Also, airlines are forbidden to serve alcoholic beverages to anyone who appears to be intoxicated.

Travel assistance for delayed or canceled flights At United and Continental, our priority is safety and keeping an on-time schedule. On occasion, canceling or delaying a flight is the only option to assure we maintain the highest safety standards.

Flight canceled? We will automatically confirm you on the next United or Continental flight with available seats. Kiosks located in the concourse will assist you with information and a boarding pass—they will also help you stand by for an earlier United or Continental flight if one is scheduled. If you want to travel standby and aren’t boarded, we will transfer your name to the next United or Continental flight to your destination until you are onboard.

you with a hotel and meal voucher. For uncontrollable events—such as weather—we may be able to help you locate a local hotel at a discounted rate; however, United and Continental do not cover hotel or meal expenses in this event. If we cannot retrieve your checked bag, overnight kits containing toiletries are available. Please see an agent.

What if the reason for my travel no longer exists? If as a result of the delay or cancellation you decide not to travel, call United reservations (1-800-UNITED-1) or Continental reservations (1-800-523-FARE) to get information on your options.

What about my bag? Baggage is boarded on the next flight if space is available. This means your bags may arrive before you. United or Continental will secure the bag until you claim it. See a baggage claim representative.

Help us help you keep informed. Sign up for Trip Alert, our messaging service. If your flight is canceled or delayed, Trip Alert will inform you.

Enroll at united.com or continental.com. At home? Go to united.com or continental.com for information or to check in and print your boarding pass.

What if I have to stay overnight? If a flight is canceled to address a mechanical issue or a similar issue within our control, we will provide

Your safety and satisfaction are important. We appreciate your business and apologize for any inconvenience you may have experienced.

Staying Fit INFLIGHT FLEXIBILITY

150

Knee Flexion: Lift knee toward chest, decreasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee. Repeat with other leg.

Dorsiflexion: With heel on floor, point toes upward, decreasing the angle between the foot and the front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

Eversion: With foot on floor, gently roll the sole of the foot inward. Repeat with other foot.

Knee Extension: Straighten knee, increasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee to its full range. Repeat with other leg.

Plantar Flexion: Lift heel and keep toes pointed toward the floor, increasing the angle between the top of the foot and the front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

Inversion: With foot on floor, gently roll the sole of the foot outward. Repeat with other foot.

NOVEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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CUSTOMER CARE We are committed to providing quality service, and we want to hear about your travel experience with us. In addition, if you think a certain employee or an action taken on your behalf deserves special recognition, please let us know.

Please give us your feedback at ualsurvey.com.

Rechargeable batteries have a risk of overload or fire when not stored properly.

Rechargeable batteries should be stored in their electronic devices or properly protected to avoid contact with metal or other batteries during flight.

ELECTRONIC DEVICES STAGE OF FLIGHT

DEVICES PERMITTED

DEPARTURE: at gate, only when cabin door is open ARRIVAL: taxiing to gate area

Mobile phones and two-way pagers

Advanced mobile phones, PDAs and other personal electronic devices with wireless capabilities may be used in flight when switched to “airplane” mode. A visible airplanedisabled mode should be identifiable and shown to a crew member upon request.

Flight attendants will notify mobile phone and two-way pager users when it is safe to begin placing or receiving phone calls or pages after landing. One-way pagers may be used to receive messages at any time.

PDAs and other electronic devices

MUST BE TURNED OFF: during taxi, takeoff and landing

IN FLIGHT: above 10,000 feet in altitude

Noise-canceling headphones

GPS devices

ON GROUND: when main cabin door is open

Calculators

Cameras

Shavers

Personal computers*

Entertainment players and recorders (audio and/or video, such as iPods; e-readers; tape/ CD/MiniDisc/MP3/ DVD players; and camcorders)*

Aircraft power ports for laptops

Electronic games*

* must be used with sound off or with headsets at all times

MUST BE TURNED OFF: during taxi, takeoff and landing

NEVER PERMITTED TVs

Radio receivers and/or transmitters (including AM/FM/SW, CB and scanners)

Remote-control toys and personal air purifiers

PLEASE NOTE Customers may always use any medically prescribed physiological instrument, such as a hearing aid or a pacemaker. Customers wearing hearing assistance devices may request a special headset from a flight attendant.

Passengers are allowed to use non-noise-canceling headphones during taxi, takeoff and landing on aircraft that are equipped with DIRECTV® and Audio Video On Demand (AVOD).

The in-seat power system may be used only above 10,000 feet, when other approved personal electronic devices are permitted. Use of the system is at your own risk.

Do not remove batteries.

We are not responsible for loss of data or damage to computer hardware or software.

ONBOARD PHOTO AND VIDEO The use of still and video cameras, film or digital, including any cellular or other devices that have this capability, is permitted only for recording of personal events. Photography or audio or video recording of other customers without their express prior consent is strictly prohibited.

Also, unauthorized photography or audio or video recording of airline personnel, aircraft equipment or procedures is always prohibited. Any photography (video or still) or voice or audio recording or transmission while on any United Airlines aircraft is strictly prohibited, except to the extent specifically permitted by United Airlines.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • NOVEMBER 2011

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INFORMATION

MileagePlus THE WORLD’S MOST REWARDING LOYALTY PROGRAM

Coming soon

On December 31, 2011, the OnePass program will end, followed by a wind-down period during the first quarter of 2012. After the wind-down, all OnePass members will automatically be enrolled in the MileagePlus program.

Until December 31, all OnePass accounts will remain active, and enrollments will still be accepted.

In 2012, MileagePlus looks forward to welcoming OnePass members into the program. With MileagePlus, members will enjoy the benefits of the world’s most rewarding loyalty program: more worldwide destinations, more comfort and more ways to earn and redeem award miles. Current members are encouraged to link their OnePass and MileagePlus accounts at united.com/linkmyaccounts.

Stay up to date on the complete details of the 2012 MileagePlus program by adding a valid email address to your account or visiting mileageplusmergerupdates.com.

About MileagePlus MileagePlus is our award-winning loyalty program. When you enroll, you earn award miles every time you fly United,

152

Continental or our partners—award miles for travel to more than 1,100 destinations worldwide. You can also earn and redeem award miles with a variety of partners and programs. To enroll, pick up an application at the airport or go to mileageplus.com.

Achieve status The more you fly, the sooner you’ll achieve status, which provides additional benefits to our most valuable members.

Your qualifying activity on United and Continental this year will be combined toward your MileagePlus status for 2012.

Earn even more award miles Members can earn award miles around the world with: • Airlines • Hotels • Car rental companies • Communication partners • Credit/debit card companies • Cruises • Shopping and gift partners and many more

Status benefits • Complimentary upgrades on both United and Continental flights • Generous mileage bonuses • Special reward privileges • Premier Access travel benefits, including priority check-in, boarding and baggage handling, as well as expedited security screening • Access to Economy Plus seating (coming to Continental aircraft in fall 2011)

NOVEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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Alliances & Partnerships

GLOBAL REACH. WORLDWIDE RECOGNITION. EXCELLENT TRAVEL SERVICES. United and Star Alliance member airlines provide seamless air travel around the world.

Star Alliance is the world’s largest global airline alliance, with more than 21,000 daily flights departing to more than 1,100 destinations. United customers have access to a comprehensive global network, frequent-flyer travel benefits and worldwide lounge access on all Star Alliance member airlines.

Star Alliance Member Airlines

The Star Alliance network Established in 1997 as the first truly global airline alliance to offer customers a worldwide travel network, Star Alliance aims to provide customers with a seamless travel experience across multiple airlines. Today, the Star Alliance network offers more than 21,000 daily flights to 1,100-plus destinations in 181 countries.

Earn miles and status faster With the largest airline alliance, you can earn miles almost anywhere in the world you fly. Miles can be earned on most fares on almost any Star Alliance flight and can be credited to your MileagePlus or One Pass account. Plus, the flight miles will count toward status.

Earn recognition around the world The more you fly with United, Continental and the Star Alliance airlines, the higher your status can be. MileagePlus status and OnePass status are recognized across the alliance as either Star Alliance Silver or Star Alliance Gold, with travel benefits worldwide. Go to united.com/staralliance for the Star Alliance Silver and Gold status benefits you can receive.

Award travel is now easier With Star Alliance Awards, you can use your MileagePlus or OnePass miles for award travel on any Star Alliance carrier worldwide. Or, use them for Star Alliance Upgrade Awards and upgrade to a premium cabin and travel in comfort (available on most Star Alliance airlines).

Other Airline Partners You can earn and redeem award miles on many of our other airline partners. See united.com/airlinepartners for specific information about each of our other airline partners.

• Aer Lingus • Avianca • Continental Connection

• Copa Airlines • Great Lakes • Hawaiian Airlines • Island Air

• Jet Airways • Qatar Airways • TACA Group

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • NOVEMBER 2011

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EXPERIENCE 90% NOISE CANCELLATION Find your QuietPoint ®. Look to these active noise-cancelling headphones for a remarkable 90% reduction in background noise. And Audio-Technica’s stunningly clear, high-resolution sound. Wherever your travels take you, experience more.

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ESSENTIAL GEAR.

Invented in the United States. Made in Switzerland.

SR-71 Blackbird™ Limited Edition Valjoux Chronograph Series No. 9082.BO: 44mm, black PVD plated stainless steel case with screw case back and screw-down crown, internal rotating timing ring, antireflective sapphire crystals top and bottom, water resistant to 100 meters, with black PVD plated solid ink stainless steel bracelet, and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made.

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Available At These Fine Retailers NATIONWIDE Bass Pro | Cabela’s | Eddie Bauer | Orvis | Tourneau Watch Gear | ALABAMA Mark’s Outdoor Sports, Birmingham | Woods & Water, Tuscaloosa | ARIZONA Ganem Jewelers, Phoenix | Scottsdale Fine Jewelers, Scottsdale | ARKANSAS Mack's Prairie Wings, Stutgart | CALIFORNIA Total Time, Arcadia | Timepiece Network, Burbank | Julianna’s Fine Jewelry, Corte Madera | Time Zone, Costa Mesa | Ara Karkazian Jewelers, Fresno | Time Center, Huntington Beach | Feldmar Watch, Los Angeles | Tic Time, Ontario | Pasadena Watch Co, Pasadena | Tic Time, Redondo Beach | Prime Time UTC, San Diego | Ravits, San Francisco | Gene Hiller Menswear, Sausalito | Vana Watch, South Pasadena | Time Spot, Thousand Oaks | Watch City, Torrance | Valencia Time Center, Valencia | One More Time, Ventura | FLORIDA Bere Jewelers, Gulf Breeze | Ferguson Jewelers, Homestead | Shooters Firearms, Jacksonville | London Watch Co., Miami | Peoples Jewelers, Miami | Watches Plus, Orange Park | Jay’s Watches, Orlando | Orlando Watch Company, Winter Park | GEORGIA It’s About Time Stores, Atlanta | Worthmore Jewelers, Atlanta | Armen & Joseph Jewelers, Duluth | D. Geller & Son, Smyrna | Steel’s Jewelry, Valdosta | HAWAII Japaha, Honolulu | Kupulau, Honolulu | Olivia Euro, Honolulu | ILLINOIS Chicago Clock Company, Chicago | Howard Frum Jewelers, Chicago | Mari Lou's Fine Jewelers, Orland Park | INDIANA G Thrapp Jewelers, Indianapolis | Ashcraft Jewelers, Munci | Albert's Jewelers, Schererville | IOWA Herteen & Stocker, Iowa City | KANSAS Randy Cooper, Wichita | LOUISIANA Bowie Outfitters, Baton Rouge | Coleman Adler, New Orleans | MAINE Kittery Trading Post, Kittery | MARYLAND Little Treasury, Gambrillis | Bensons Jewelers, Washington DC | MICHIGAN Thomas A Davis, Holland | MISSISSIPPI Sollberger Watches, Ridgeland | NEVADA Citadel Safe, Las Vegas | Time Square, Reno | NEW JERSEY J.Vincent, Colts Neck | Campmor, Paramus | Orilogio, Short Hills | Orogio, Tenafly | NEW MEXICO Shelton Jewelers, Albuquerque | NEW YORK Arrow Army Navy, Bronx | Mohawk Army Navy, Schenechtedy | Barney's, New York | Central Watch Band Stand, New York | Las Americas, New York | Paragon, New York | Tent n Trails, New York | United Uniforms, Rochester | Woodrow Jewelers, Rye | NORTH CAROLINA Sharon Luggage, Charlotte | OHIO Gino's Jewelers, Cleveland | Ricky Tanno, Cleveland | OREGON Klondike Gold Jewelers, Portland | PENNSYLVANIA Tanner's Sports, Jamison | Munn's Diamond Gallery, Lemoyne | Jems Jewels & Gold, North Whales | WhiteHall Army Navy, Whitehall | RHODE ISLAND Saltzman's Watches and More, Cranston | Watches Etc., Middletown | SOUTH CAROLINA Grady's Great Outdoors, Anderson | TEXAS Throckmortons Watch, Austin | Mon Cadeau, Dallas | Markham Fine Jewelers, Frisco | Cristianis Jewelers, Midland | Charles Gurinsky’s, San Antonio | VIRGINIA Belle View Jewelers, Alexandria | WASHINGTON Swissa Jewelers, Seattle | WISCONSIN The Watch Company, Appleton | THE CARIBBEAN John Bull Ltd., Nassau, BS | Island Companies, Grand Cayman, BWI | Joe's Jewelery, St. Maarten | Ballerina, St. Maarten | Royal Caribbean, St. Thomas, USVI

No.32723_Luminox_Watch_Company 1pp.indd 1

12/10/2011 09:35

Chef Gerry Gulli

Chef’s corner WE LCOM E ABOAR D Sit back, relax and enjoy your flight. We are pleased to introduce our chefs who create tasty selections with regional and global influences.

Their menus are designed exclusively for customers seated in our premium cabins. To complement your meal, be sure to sample one of our specially selected wines.

Corporate Chef Gerry Gulli is responsible for United’s menu design and development. In this role, he combines his love of food with his interest in aviation. He has been widely recognized for his creativity in designing menus with broad international and regional appeal. In his free time, Chef Gerry enjoys trying new recipes with family and friends. We invite you to dive into cioppino by trying one of his favorite recipes.

SAN FRANCISCO BAY-STYLE CIOPPINO ¼ cup olive oil 2-4 cloves garlic, minced ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes, optional 1 large yellow onion, chopped 1 tablespoon fresh basil, chopped 1 tablespoon fresh oregano, chopped ½ cup dry white wine 6 cups tomato sauce or diced canned tomatoes 2 cups clam or fish stock 1 pound cod or halibut, cut into 1 inch cubes 1 pound clams (Manila or Littleneck) 1 pound mussels, cleaned and debearded 1 pound prawns (16-20 count), peeled and deveined 1 pound jumbo lump crab meat, cooked 12 ounces bay scallops Sea salt and pepper to taste Heat the oil in a large pot over medium high. Sauté garlic and pepper flakes (if desired) for 1 minute. Add the onions and sweat until translucent. Turn heat to high and deglaze with the wine. Cook for 2-3 minutes until wine is reduced by half. Reduce the heat and add the tomato sauce, fish stock, basil and oregano. Bring to a boil, and then reduce to a gentle simmer. Add all fish and shellfish except the crab meat. Bring to a boil, and then simmer for 5-7 minutes or until the clam and mussel shells open. Add the crab meat. Season with salt and pepper. If desired, add additional tomato sauce or stock to thin the cioppino.

Ladle into large warmed bowls. Garnish with fresh basil leaves. Serve with toasted French or Sourdough bread to soak up the rich and flavorful broth. For a twist, serve in bread bowls. Recipe yields 8 servings.

A ROU N D T H E V I N E

Guy Saget “La Petite Perriere” Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc, while successful around the world, is most complex in its Loire Valley home and Saget is one of its masters: think melon, lemon and apple.

Chef’s tip When cooking with fresh clams and mussels, be sure to discard any shells that are broken or not fully closed.

Also, discard any shells that have not opened after cooking.

Doug Frost, Master Sommelier and Master of Wine

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à la carte ALL DAY ON MOST FLIGHTS OVER 2.5 HOURS

PRINGLES® ORIGINAL POTATO CRISPS $2.99 2.6 ounce can TWIZZLERS® STRAWBERRY TWISTS $2.99 4 ounce box M&M’S® PRETZEL CHOCOLATE CANDIES $2.99 2.8 ounce box TWO-BITE® CINNAMON ROLLS $2.99 3 mini rolls BLUE DIAMOND® ROASTED SALTED ALMONDS $4.99 6 ounce can

breakfast ON MOST MORNING FLIGHTS OVER 3.5 HOURS

TWO-BITE® CINNAMON ROLLS $2.99 3 mini rolls YOGURT PARFAIT $5.49 Low-fat vanilla yogurt with mixed berries and granola.

CHEESE & FRUIT PLATE $7.49 Brie, Gouda, Muenster and cheddar cheeses, dried fruit and pecan halves. *HAM & CHEDDAR RUSTIC CIABATTA SANDWICH $5.79 Shaved ham and cheddar cheese on a rustic ciabatta square served with Dijon mustard-mayo sauce (served cold).

AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE ON MOST NORTH AMERICA AND LATIN AMERICA FLIGHTS. MOST FLIGHTS ACCEPT CREDIT/DEBIT CARDS ONLY.

*HOT BREAKFAST SANDWICH $5.99 Jimmy Dean® sausage, egg and cheese sandwich, accompanied by fresh fruit and condiments. * These breakfast items are available on select flights only.

lunch & dinner ON MOST AFTERNOON AND EVENING FLIGHTS OVER 3.5 HOURS

ASIAN NOODLE SALAD $5.49 A chilled noodle salad topped with stir-fried vegetables, sweet chile chicken breast and green onions.

GRILLED CHICKEN SPINACH SALAD $9.49 Chicken, cherry tomatoes and carrots over spinach and romaine lettuce, topped with crispy onions and served with balsamic vinaigrette.

CHEESE & FRUIT PLATE $7.49 Brie, Gouda, Muenster and cheddar cheeses, dried fruit and pecan halves.

THAI CHICKEN WRAP $8.59 Chicken breast, romaine lettuce, carrots, and red and yellow bell peppers wrapped in a tortilla with Thai aïoli sauce. *TURKEY SANDWICH $7.99 Smoked turkey with provolone cheese and lettuce on a pretzel roll with stone-ground mustard-mayo sauce. *ANGUS CHEESEBURGER $7.99 Premium Angus beef with melted cheese, lettuce, tomato, pickles and onion, served with traditional condiments. * These lunch/dinner items are available on select flights only.

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06/10/2011 09:17

beverages N O N - A LC O H O L I C Complimentary and available on most flights.

Coca-Cola,® Coke Zero,® Diet Coke® Sprite,® Sprite Zero® Minute Maid®: Cranberry Apple Juice Cocktail, Orange Juice Mott’s®: Apple Juice, Tomato Juice

Mr. & Mrs. T’s® Bloody Mary Mix Seagram’s®: Ginger Ale, Seltzer Water, Tonic Water Bottled Water Freshbrew™ Journeys Coffee Decaffeinated Coffee Hot Tea

AVAI L A B L E O N S EL EC T RO U T E S Cappuccino, Espresso and Specialty Regional Teas

A LC O H O L I C Alcoholic beverages are available on most flights. Complimentary in premium cabins. Priced as shown in economy cabin.

S P E C I A LT Y C O C K TA I L

snackboxes ALL DAY ON MOST FLIGHTS OVER 2.5 HOURS

TAPAS $8.49

MOS T N O RT H A M ER IC A FL IG H TS E XCEP T HAWAII Salvador’s® Margarita $7 M OS T U. S . M AI N L A N D F L I G H T S TO/ F ROM H AWAI I Trader Vic’s® Mai Tai $9

B E E R $6 Budweiser®, Miller® Lite, Heineken®

Oloves Marinated Olives

Roasted Red Pepper Bruschetta Spread

W I N E S $7

Wild Garden™ Hummus

House Red and White

Rondelé® Peppercorn Parmesan Cheese Spread

I N T E R N AT I O N A L & M OS T F L I G H T S TO/ F ROM H AWAI I Sparkling Wine

Fratelli Laurieri Scrocchi Al Rosmarino Crackers

Jacobs® Cream Crackers

Partners® Olive Oil and Sea Salt Crackers

Emerald® Natural Almonds

Fantis® Ouzo Candy Mint

CLASSIC $7.49

Snyder’s® of Hanover Mini Pretzels

Crackers

Pepperidge Farm® Goldfish

Hormel Homeland® Hard Salami

Cheddar Gourmet Cheese Spread

Special wine selections are available for premium cabin customers. Please ask your flight attendant about today’s selections.

S P I R I T S $7 ABSOLUT® Vodka Bacardi® Superior Light Rum Bombay Sapphire® Dry Gin Canadian Club® Whisky

Dewar’s® “White Label®” Blended Scotch Whisky Jack Daniel’s® Tennessee Whiskey Jim Beam Black® Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey

L I Q U E U R S & C O G N AC $7

Bailey’s® Irish Cream

Courvoisier® VSOP Fine Champagne Cognac

M OS T I N T E R N AT I O N A L F L I G H T S The Glenlivit® Single Malt Crown Royal® Canadian Whisky Scotch Whisky DISARONNO® Amaretto* Grand Marnier® Kahlua®*

Jelly Belly® Assorted Flavors

Chips Ahoy!™ 100-Calorie Thin Crisps

SAVORY $7.29

Tortilla Chips

Mild Salsa

Granola Bar

Fruit & Nut Mix

Dark Chocolate Covered Pretzel

* Also domestic premium cabins Alcohol is complimentary in economy class on United-operated flights within Asia and trans-Pacific international flights.

Save $2 on alcoholic beverages when you use your Continental Airlines Chase MasterCard® on Continental-operated flights.

Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only. Customers are limited to one alcoholic beverage at a time during service.

We are proud to recycle aluminum cans, newspapers, and plastic bottles on eligible flights.

Menu and beverage options may vary by flight. We apologize if your preferred choice is not available.

9(1',1*

I N N O VAT I V E S O L U T I O N S

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06/10/2011 09:18

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No.31088_TAG_Heuer 1pp.indd 1

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