General Section Scottish climbs and publishes new route descriptions each year in its Journal. In 1985 Andy co-authored his first climbing guide The Cairngorms with Allen Fyffe and thus commenced his continuous involvement with Scottish guidebook writing right up until his death. His great knowledge of the hills and rock faces, gleaned over years of sustained hillwalking and climbing made him an obvious choice as New Routes Editor. He took on this important time-consuming role and continued enthusiastically for over 30 years. He was President of the Club from 2010 to 2012. Not long after Vertigo Wall Alfie gave up front line winter climbing but Andy continued with his phenomenal output of new winter ascents across the length and breadth of the Scottish Highlands. Two climbs in the Cairngorms particularly stand out. In January 1980 he did all the leading on a very icy Goliath, a classic 1960s rock climb at Creag an Dubh-loch. Then, at his peak in February 1985, he and Colin MacLean climbed the 800foot Needle on the Shelter Stone Crag of Ben Macdui over two days. Some say the ascent of this long, sustained extreme rock climb was probably the most difficult mixed climb in the world at that time. The word ‘mixed’ in a mountaineering context implies climbing on rock covered with snow, thin ice or hoar frost in sub-zero temperatures. It is for promoting the skills and having the tenacity required to make numerous ascents of hard mixed winter climbs that Andy will be especially remembered. Although his undoubted forte was winter climbing, Andy was an all-round mountaineer. He tended to underplay his ability on rock, but he was no slouch, having a penchant for bold friction climbing on smooth slabs. His output of new rock climbs throughout the country almost matches his list of winter routes, both being without comparison to any other Scottish pioneer past or present. Even before becoming a professional guide in the mid-80s he had climbed in the Alps and the Himalayas. The North Face of the Eiger and a winter ascent of the North Face of the Matterhorn are included in his alpine tally. In 1985 he took part in an expedition which attempted the then unclimbed North-East Ridge of Mount Everest. I climbed with Andy a number of times in the early years before he left Aberdeen for Glenmore Lodge. He certainly impressed me on a new winter route we did together on Beinn a’ Bhuird. One of my best memories of being with him was on a weekend to Reiff, on the Rubha Mor peninsula north of Ullapool, in May 1982. It was at the time when the now popular Reiff sea cliffs were first being explored. On the Sunday, four of us made the fine coastal walk out to the far point of Rubha Coigeach to investigate the distant golden coloured cliffs. Unfortunately, a heavy drizzle had set in by the time we reached the crags and the immaculate walls of perfect sandstone were dripping wet. We spent some time checking other cliffs farther round the headland then set off to walk back to Reiff. “I think it’s going to clear up” says Andy with his usual optimism. The other two were not convinced and continued south. We went back to the Golden Walls. Soon a warm wind got up and the clouds began to disperse. Within an hour the sun was out and the rock was drying. Late afternoon in that beautiful west coast setting we did four climbs. Andy had run in the inaugural London marathon the previous weekend and had still not fully regained his strength. Nevertheless, he was determined to lead an enticing crack which had caught his eye. He did eventually succeed and it was later named Andrew’s Crack. As we walked back that glorious evening, I knew we would both return to the Golden Walls. I also knew he would be back long before me, and so it turned out. Robin Grant writes:
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