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HALIFAX

WHERE.CA

CHRISTMASoast on the c

Live music, theatre, parades, and more—Christmas celebrations abound in the Halifax area N OV/ DEC 2 0 1 9

DINING | SHOPPING | ATTRACTIONS | ENTERTAINMENT | ART | MAPS


EXTRAORDINARY JAPANESE CUISINE Downtown Halifax Japanese Izakaya and Sushi 1458 Queen Street

(across the street from Central Library)

Dartmouth Crossing 159 Hector Gate Bayer’s Lake 201 Chain Lake Drive Bedford location 827 Bedford Highway

902-422-9020 | SUSHINAMI.CA


Warm up to winter. No matter what styles are on trend this winter, at Mic Mac Mall you’ll find the latest brands for the whole family. Shop at some of our stores including Hudson Bay, H&M, Linen Chest, Justice and Sephora. We’re located minutes from downtown Halifax at 21 Mic Mac Boulevard off Exit 5 on Highway NS-111. Monday to Saturday: 9:30am–9:00pm Sunday: 12:00pm–5:00pm 902.466.2056 Visit micmacmall.com for extended holiday hours.


COME VISIT OUR MUSEUM GIFT SHOP VENEZ VISITER NOTRE BOUTIQUE DU MUSÉE

Shop in or onl store, i Trouv ne. ez-la e n magas in ou en lign shop.p e. ier21.c a Pier21.ca | Quai21.ca

1055 Marginal Road. Museum admission not required 1055 Chemin Marginal. Admission au Musée pas nécessaire


WELCOME TO HALIFAX

On behalf of the Hotel Association of Nova Scotia, it is my pleasure to welcome you to the Metro area. Our capital of Halifax is rich in beauty, heritage and culture, and we are pleased to share it with you. Our exclusive visitor magazine, Where Halifax, will help you discover all there is to experience during your visit. As you’ll see in our cover story on page 17, Halifax embraces the holiday season with gusto. From markets like Christmas at the Forum (page 20), to beloved annual holiday shows from Symphony Nova Scotia (page 24) and Neptune Theatre (page 24), to time-travelling holiday celebrations like the Victorian Christmas (page 21) at Halifax Citadel (page EC3), you’ll find plenty for the whole family to see and do. Capping it all is the all-ages New Year’s Eve Celebration (page 21) in front of City Hall (page EC3) on Argyle Street, including a midnight fireworks show. Where is designed to help make the most of your time by assisting you with decisions such as where to shop, where to dine and what to see and do. Please feel free to take this magazine along with you on your journey—with our compliments. Our goal is to ensure your stay in one of Canada’s most extraordinary provinces is a memorable one. Should you have any questions, or require assistance of any kind during your visit, please ask any member of your hotel’s staff. Enjoy your stay and come back soon. Visit novascotiahotels.org

DAVID CLARK PRESIDENT, HOTEL ­ASSOCIATION OF NOVA SCOTIA NOV/DEC 2019 where.ca

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CONTENTS NOV/DEC 2019

YOUR TRAVELLING COMPANION SINCE 1936



THE GUIDE 17 CHRISTMAS ON THE COAST ENTERTAINMENT PAGES 20–24 >> The scoop on hot events, exhibits, theatre, and music SHOPPING PAGES 50–58 >> Major shopping areas, speciality stores, boutiques, and gift shops

LIVE MUSIC, THEATRE, PARADES, AND MORE—CHRISTMAS CELEBRATIONS ABOUND IN THE HALIFAX AREA

DAY TRIPPIN’ FROM BEACHES TO WINERIES TO HISTORIC SITES, HALIFAX IS A GREAT ROAD-TRIP BASE

DINING PAGES 59–70 >> Eat your way through the city THE ESSENTIAL CITY PAGES EC1–EC9 >> Attractions EC1 >> Getting Around EC2 >> Historic Sites EC2 >> Parks EC6 >> Museums EC7 >> Science Centres EC9

THE NUTCRACKER AT SYMPHONY NOVA SCOTIA

ON OUR COVER Neptune Theatre's Christmas Carol and Holiday Parade of Lights are the Christmas classics in Halifax. CHRISTMAS CAROL PHOTO: STOO METZ HOLIDAY PARADE OF LIGHTS PHOTO: WILL ROBERTS

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ALSO INSIDE 5 WELCOME 9 CONCIERGE Q&A 10 HOT ENTERTAINMENT 12 HOT SHOPPING 14 HOT DINING

6 where.ca NOV/DEC 2019

PHOTO: MICHELLE DOUCETTE

MAPS PAGES EC12–EC17


HALIFAX

Atlantic Canada’s largest independent bookseller with a wonderfully curated selection of books. We focus on literary fiction, poetry, philosophy, history, local authors, unique gift ideas, pens and stationery and more. Open 7 days a week. 5686 Spring Garden Road | 902-423-0419

halifax@bookmarkreads.ca www.bookmarkreads.ca

Publisher Sales Director Senior Editor Creative Director Graphic Designer Production Coordinator Production Assistant Printing

Fred Fiander Patty Baxter Trevor J. Adams Shawn Dalton Graham Whiteman Paige Sawler Nicole McNeil Advocate Printing & Publishing

Where Halifax

Metro Guide Publishing 2882 Gottingen Street Halifax, Nova Scotia B3K 3E2 902-420-9943 Fax: 902-429-9058 Email: publishers@metroguide.ca metroguidepublishing.ca

Stay on top of the best visitor news with WHEREmail, our free monthly email newsletter. Sign up at: where.ca/halifax/newsletter.cfm Advertising 902-420-9943 publishers@metroguide.ca Where Group Publisher Jonathan Harris Senior National Account Manager Catherine Lenihan clenihan@where.ca 416-364-3333 ext 308

The Travel Store

All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. Where Canada is a registered trademark of St. Joseph Communications Media Group, used under license. Where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes. We cannot be held responsible for any ­­­­consequences from errors or omissions. Where Halifax (Vol. 73, No 10) is published 10 times per year by Metro Guide Publishing and is officially endorsed by the Hotel Association of Nova Scotia.

Get inspiring ideas for the most enriching and authentic experience for your next trip!

ISSN 1184-292X. Second-class mail registation number: 2411. Average circulation: 25,000 copies per issue. Subscription rate: $20 per year + HST ($25 outside Canada) Printed in Canada.

WHERE IN THE WORLD:

1601 Lower Water Street Summit Place Halifax 902-422-7106

www.mapsandmore.ca 8 where.ca NOV/DEC 2019

The world’s foremost travel publications and city guides (est. 1936), in 72 destinations. Canada: Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg. United States: Alaska, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Colorado, Dallas-Fort Worth, Daytona Beach, Ft. Lauderdale, Hawaiian Islands (Big Island, Kauai, Maui, Oahu), Houston, Indianapolis, Jacksonville, Kansas City, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Miami, N. Arizona, Nashville, New Orleans, New York City, Orange County, Orlando, Palm Beach, Panama City, Philadelphia, Phoenix-Scottsdale, Raleigh-Durham, Reno-Tahoe, San Antonio, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, Southwest Florida, St. Augustine, St. Louis, Tampa Bay, Tucson, Twin Cities, Virginia, Washington D.C. Europe: Berlin, Budapest, Istanbul, London, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, Naples, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg. Asia: China, Singapore. Australia: Brisbane, Melbourne, Sydney.


CONCIERGE Q & A

Penny Cameron is regional secretary for Les Clefs d’Or Atlantic Region and was the first woman concierge in our region to join the organization. After 30 years with The Prince George, she is now part of the team at Parkland at the Gardens, a luxury retirement residence.

What’s one thing every visitor to Halifax should know? Halifax is steeped in history! Over 1.5 million immigrants and refugees came to Canada through Pier 21 and the port became known as the “Gateway to Canada.” Pier 21 welcomed troops, war brides, and refugees following the Second World War. The historic site is now home to the Canadian Museum of Immigration (page EC7), housing an amazing collection of books, films, photographs, and documentation to tell the story of immigration through the years.  

What are your favourite holiday events in the Halifax area? One of my favourites is the kick-off holiday event: the Parade of Lights (page 21) on Nov. 16. Bundle up and join the crowd downtown for marching bands, dancers, floats and, of course, the arrival of Santa Claus! Just prior to the parade, the Red Nose Run takes place, with hundreds of runners dressed in holiday costume and sporting a blinking red nose.

What restaurant would you recommend for a festive dinner with friends? For a winter festive dinner, I like to choose one of our cozy restaurants where you feel away from the outside world; I look for excellent lighting, excellent service, and excellent food. You’ll find them all at da Maurizio (page 66) in the Brewery Market on Lower Water Street or at Chives Canadian Bistro (page 61) on Barrington Street. I must also mention Bar Kismet (page 59), a 30-seat restaurant listed amongst Canada’s 100 best: “refined, relaxed, and a little bit retro.”

If you only had one day in Halifax in this season, how would you spend it? In one day, I would want to get to know the best of the city, which you can easily do on foot. Get a walking map from your concierge and explore Barrington and Spring Garden Road, visiting all of the side streets, make a stop at the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia (page 22) to see the Maud Lewis exhibit, the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic (page EC8) and Pier 21. Enjoy a quick lunch at La Frasca (page 66) on Spring Garden Road and later in the day, try a selection of our local brews at Stillwell (page 61) on Barrington Street or the Stubborn Goat (page 60) on Grafton Street.

Where should visitors go for a tasty baked treat or decadent dessert? Locals just love the LF Bakery on Gottingen Street where an excellent array of baked Frenchinspired treats are available daily—and quickly disappear. Stop in for an espresso or a steaming hot chocolate and delicious chocolatine…mmm, decadent. More centrally located is the Old Apothecary on Barrington Street. It’s a great spot to sit and enjoy another excellent selection of baked goods and espresso. NOV/DEC 2019 where.ca

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HOT ENTERTAINMENT

BY TREVOR J. ADAMS

BLADES OF STEEL

Nov. 17 Rock the Rink (page 21) takes over Scotiabank Centre on Duke Street, for a dazzling display of figure-skating artistry and virtuosity. See Olympic heroes like Tessa Virtue and Scott Moir, Patrick Chan, Kaetlyn Osmond, and Elvis Stojko, performing with live music, dazzling lighting, video, and special effects.

CHRISTMAS CLASSIC

EDITOR’S PICK

Dec. 18 It’s the perfect time of year for Boney M (page 23)! They bring their Holiday Favourites & Classic Hits tour to Scotiabank Centre. The EuroCaribbean vocal group is best known for the holiday staple “Mary’s Boy Child—Oh My Lord” but has a rich catalogue of songs showcasing their artful harmonies and broad range.

KATELYN OSMOND

TIME TO REMEMBER

• Nov. 11: On Remembrance Day (page 21), Halifax pauses to commemorate the Nova Scotians who served in the Forces. Hundreds crowd Grand Parade square outside Halifax City Hall (page EC3) for the ceremony at 11am. • Dec. 6: The solemn Halifax Explosion Memorial (page 21) ceremony at Fort Needham (page EC6) park marks the anniversary of the Halifax Explosion, an accidental blast that levelled the city’s North End and killed some 2,000 people.

Continuing through Jan. 26 The exhibition Industrial Elements Air, Fire, Water, and Earth explores past industrial activity in the province, juxtaposing 18th and 19th century art with contemporary works. It also explores some lesser known aspects of that activity: making labels for canneries, Mi’kmaq harvesting birch and ash to carve hockey sticks, and more. See it at the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia (page 22) on Hollis Street. 10 where.ca NOV/DEC 2019

PHOTO: HRM

THE WAY WE WERE


NOVEMBER

HAIL TO THE CHIEF

Nov. 13 Scotiabank Centre hosts A Conversation with Barack Obama (page 20), as the Nobel Peace Prize winner and erstwhile American president sits down for a wide-ranging discussion of his career and the state of the world today.

3 FOR MUSIC LOVERS

• Nov. 9: The Cecilia Concert Series (page 23) presents Genius Child: Portia White at Town Hall at St. George’s Round Church (page EC4). Seventy-five years ago, White gave a legendary performance in New York that helped bring down the colour barrier in concert halls here in Nova Scotia. Soprano Harolyn Blackwell honours her legacy. • Nov. 15–16: Hard-driving singer/songwriter Matt Mays (page 24) is known for his boisterous live shows and always brings his best stuff for the hometown fans. • Dec. 31: Put 2019 behind you at Casino Nova Scotia (page 20), as ’80s stars Platinum Blonde rock in the new year.

PHOTO: TAMMY FANCY

MATT MAYS

JINJOO CHO

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 • • 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

Nov. 1 DEREK EDWARDS Low key, sarcastic, and consistently hilarious—one of Canada’s top comics returns to the Dalhousie Arts Centre with his So here’s the thing… tour. Page 20 Nov. 9 LIVE ART DANCE Calgary’s Decidedly Jazz Danceworks takes on Shakespeare with the original spoken-word/ dance production Juliet and Romeo. See it at the Dalhousie Arts Centre. Page 20 Nov. 22–24 GORDON LIGHTFOOT With decades of hits, Lightfoot has shaped generations of Canadian singer/songwriters. Don’t miss this chance to see the legend. Page 23

DECEMBER Dec. 9 ‘TIS THE SEASON Cape Breton comedian Bette MacDonald’s holiday ensemble show returns, with seasonal humour and music galore. Page 20 Dec. 21 HALIFAX THUNDERBIRDS Rough-and-tumble lacrosse is Canada’s other national sport. Halifax’s new National Lacrosse League team hosts Rochester at Scotiabank Centre. Page 24 Dec. 29 CASINO NOVA SCOTIA Acclaimed singer/ songwriters Breagh MacKinnon, Dylan Guthro, and Carleton Stone comprise the trio Port Cities. See them in the Schooner Showroom. Page 20 NOV/DEC 2019 where.ca

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HOT SHOPPING

CRYSTAL PALACE

BY TREVOR J. ADAMS

EDITOR’S PICK

The province’s only maker of fine, mouthblown, hand-cut crystal, NovaScotian Crystal (page EC1) showcases Old World artistry. Visit the waterfront studio on George Street to see master craftsmen transform molten sand into fine crystal creations.

FRESH LOOKS

• At the Halifax Shopping Centre (page 58) on Mumford Roads, Levi’s boasts a variety of brandname denim fashions for men, women, and children. • On Spring Garden Road, Olsen Europe (page 51) has fresh new looks and trends. Inspired by styles on runways and in the streets, this line is known for its quality and sophistication. Fabrics chosen to reflect a company commitment to sustainability.

ONE-OF-A-KIND

It’s hard to find a more distinctive memento of your visit than a locally-crafted work of art from the AGNS Gallery Shop (page 52) at the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia (page 22) on Hollis Street. Check out unique and collectible pieces of sculpture, pottery, paintings, and more. Maud Lewis (the eponymous artist from the acclaimed movie Maudie) is among the many local talents whose work is on display. 12 where.ca NOV/DEC 2019


UNIQUE CHRISTMAS GIFTS

• Christmas at the Forum (page 20) at the Halifax Forum on Windsor Street has been a holiday tradition in the city for four decades. Running from Nov. 1–3, this annual festival hosts dozens of vendors, offering gifts, decorations, food, antiques, and more. Discover quality arts and crafts from around the region. On Saturday, admission is two-for-one after 5pm. • Visit the Christkindlmarket (page 20) from Dec. 6–8 at Alderney Market on downtown Dartmouth’s waterfront, where the Halifax Transit (page EC2) ferries dock. This traditional German-style market features crafts, toys, and other arts and crafts, plus lots of holiday entertainment—marionettes, carousel, and musical acts. • From Nov. 15–17, the Cunard Centre on Halifax’s waterfront hosts the annual Craft Nova Scotia Christmas Show (page 21). The juried selection includes top-quality textiles, jewelry, and and crafts in a variety of media.

GREEN DAYS

Recreational cannabis is now legal in Canada and in Nova Scotia, NSLC (page 54) is the official retailer. Get expert advice and find the product that’s right for you at the NSLC stores on Clyde Street in Halifax and Portland Street in Dartmouth.

• The Dalplex Christmas Craft Market (page 21) is another perennial favourite. Dating back 30 years, it features vendors from across Atlantic Canada selling wares such as pottery, toys, food, and woodwork. Visit Dalplex on South Street from Nov. 22–24. • From Nov. 8–10, take a drive to the Halifax Exhibition Centre on Prospect Road for the Christmas Craft Village (page 21). It’s another ideal spot to support local artisans while finding unique holiday gifts for everyone on your list.

BEST FOOT FORWARD

John David Shoes (page 57) on Spring Garden Road boasts Atlantic Canada’s largest selection of women’s fashion footwear. The selection includes many exclusive brand names, such as France Mode fashion designer boots made in France.

GETTING INK

Inkwell Modern Handmade Boutique & Letterpress Studio (page 52) on Brunswick Street is one of the city’s most unique shops, boasting handmade limited-edition paper goods, tea towels, pottery, and jewelry by local and international artists. Offers letterpress printing and custom design services of social stationery. NOV/DEC 2019 where.ca

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HOT DINING

BY TREVOR J. ADAMS

DESSERT FIRST

If you’re the sort of person who skips dinner to save room for dessert, proceed directly to The Middle Spoon (page 62) on Barrington Street and at Sunnyside Mall (page 58). This stylish spot specializes in decadent desserts paired with creative cocktails. It’s the ideal place to while away an evening with friends.

BEER LOVERS’ TRIO

• At cozy RockBottom Brew Pub (page 61) on Spring Garden Road, you’ll find six different beers brewed on site, plus a selection of other local beers, wines, and ciders. Pair with a tasty dish from the kitchen; highlights include pork-belly sandwich, lobster carbonara, pad thai, and more. • Before the craft-beer scene exploded, there was The Maxwell’s Plum (page 69) on Grafton Street. This friendly neighbourhood pub features a selection of local brews, plus highlights from around the world. • Don’t let the strip-mall exterior fool you. Jamieson’s Irish-House & Grill (page 59) on Cole Harbour Drive boasts 16 taps pouring local beers (and the Irish offerings you’d expect) paired with traditional Emerald Isle pub grub.

THE FINER THINGS

Since opening in the heart of the downtown, The Barrington Steakhouse & Oyster Bar (page 69) has been a standard-setter for fine dining in Halifax. The ingredients are local, the atmosphere is chic, and the staff are knowledgeable and professional. The menu includes Atlantic Canadian beef and fresh Maritime seafood, plus a carefully curated wine list.

EDITOR’S PICK For a special occasion or a quiet weeknight dinner, Sushi Nami Royale (page 67) is a hit with locals and visitors alike. The menu offers a variety of Japanese fine dining options and fusion sushi, plus sashimi, sushi pizza, teppanyaki, and the de rigueur noodles. 14 where.ca NOV/DEC 2019

PHOTO: TREVOR J. ADAMS

SENSATIONAL SUSHI


OUT OF THE OLD WORLD

Rinaldo’s (page 66) on Windsor Street is a favourite in its Central Halifax neighbourhood. This intimate, casual spot—run by two brothers— offers an array of Italian-American favourites. Cherished family recipes are the key; they’re the sons of the couple that founded Halifax pizza mainstay Salvatore’s (page 69) in the historic Hydrostone (page EC3) neighbourhood.

TWO FOR TEA

• In the heart of the downtown across the street from Neptune Theatre (page 24), World Tea House (page 70), fuses Old World traditions with modern café culture. • Sawadee Tea House (page 70) on Granville Street boasts some 150 varieties of premium loose-leaf teas, sourced from plantations around the globe. RINALDO’S

CASUAL FAVOURITES

• Quick, casual, healthy, and flavourful: Burrito Jax (page 67) on Barrington Street ticks all the boxes for an urban-exploration power lunch. Scratch-made burritos are the house specialty. Pulled pork and pepper steak will bring the big traditional flavours purists demand, or you can give it an East Coast twist with fish. • A Southern-style smokehouse tucked away in a tiny Barrington Street spot, Boneheads BBQ (page 60) is beloved by locals. The menu includes all the slow-smoked mainstays you’d expect: ribs, brisket, pulled pork, and more. Indecisive? Try the mammoth (and ideal for sharing) Pit Boss Sampler and get a little bit of everything. BONEHEADS BBQ

NOV/DEC 2019 where.ca

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CHRISTMASt on the coas

Live music, theatre, parades, and more—Christmas celebrations abound in the Halifax area By Trevor J. Adams

NOV/DEC 2019 where.ca

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FAMILY FAVOURITES

The Holiday Parade of Lights (page 21) on Nov. 16 marks the unofficial start of the holiday season in Halifax, as thousands of spectators line downtown streets to see dozens of floats and musical acts (and, of course, Santa Claus). Back downtown on Nov. 23, Grand Parade square in front of Halifax City Hall (EC3) hosts the city’s annual Christmas Tree Lighting (page 21), a family-friendly celebration with live entertainment and a visit from Santa. Also on Nov. 23 (and 24), Halifax Citadel National Historic Site (page EC3) hosts its annual Victorian Christmas (page 21), sharing holiday traditions dating back to colonial days. In December, the party moves across the harbour, as the park at Sullivan’s Pond (page EC2) hosts the Dartmouth Christmas Tree Lighting (page 21) on Dec. 7, where the highlights include the Santa Claus Express Train and fireworks.

18 where.ca NOV/DEC 2019

FESTIVE THEATRE

Once again, Neptune Theatre (page 24) on Argyle Street marks the season with a lively show for all ages. From Nov. 26–Jan. 5, see a lighthearted take on the classic tale Peter Pan. This musical comedy is jammed with pop songs and will delight young audiences. Concurrently, Neptune’s studio stage hosts another holiday mainstay: Dickens’ A Christmas Carol, a oneman show starring Rhys Bevan-John. The pantomime at Theatre Arts Guild (page 24) is another annual family favourite. It’s always a lively, rollicking show with lots of audience participation. This year, see The Wizard of …Oz? from Nov. 21–Dec. 7.


TO: CATHY MCKELVE PHO Y

6

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MERRY MUSIC

Atlantic Canada is home to many multi-talented musical families and this holiday season, you can see two of them at the Dalhousie Arts Centre on University Avenue. On Nov. 27, The Ennis Sisters (page 23) from Newfoundland celebrate Christmas with a combination of original song and holiday classics in a show that features stunning harmonies, recitations, lively step dancing, and playful humour. And on Dec. 22, Cape Breton’s Barra MacNeils (page 23) return for An East Coast Christmas: stories, songs, and dance, all with a Celtic twist.

IN WITH THE NEW

Join thousands of revellers at Grand Parade square in front of Halifax City Hall (page EC3) for the East Coast’s largest New Year’s Eve (page 21) party. The all-ages celebration begins at 10:30pm, featuring live music by headliners Said the Whale and Zaki Ibrahim, followed by a giant fireworks show at midnight.

SYMPHONIC CELEBRATION

Symphony Nova Scotia (page 24) offers a full calendar of holiday concerts at the Dalhousie Arts Centre, starting with Christmas With Heather Rankin and Friends. From Nov. 29–Dec. 1, the vocalist teams up Irish dancers, fiddlers, and a bevy of guests for a Maritime celebration. Up next is perennial favourite The Nutcracker (presented with Mermaid Theatre and Halifax Dance) running from Dec. 6–15. As usual, things reach a crescendo with Handel’s magnificent Messiah, featuring conductor Stephen Stubbs. 1. HOLIDAY PARADE OF LIGHTS 2. DICKENS’ A CHRISTMAS CAROL AT NEPTUNE THEATRE 3. BARRA MacNEILS 4. THE ENNIS SISTERS 5. ZAKI IBRAHIM ON NEW YEAR'S EVE 6. VICTORIAN CHRISTMAS AT HALIFAX CITADEL 7. THE NUTCRACKER AT SYMPHONY NOVA SCOTIA. I

NOV/DEC 2019

where.ca 19


ENTERTAINMENT

NOBODY'S FOOLS

Canadian alt-rock legends Crash Test Dummies make a rare visit to Halifax, performing in the Schooner Showroom at Casino Nova Scotia (below).

CASINOS

CASINO NOVA SCOTIA Gaming galore, from poker to roulette to 600 slot machines. Dine at 3Sixty Lounge, 3Sixty Buffet, or May Garden. Live entertainment and special events in the Schooner Showroom and 3Sixty lounge. Nov. 9: Kim Mitchell. Nov. 16–18: Supertramp’s Roger Hodgson. Nov. 22: Crash Test Dummies. Dec. 4: Holly Cole. Dec. 6: George Canyon & Aaron Pritchett. Dec. 29: Port Cities. Dec. 31: Platinum Blonde. 1983 Upper Water St. 902-425-7777. casinonovascotia.com

COMEDY

DANNY BHOY Nov. 8–9: Age of Fools tour. This popular Scottish comic fills the house whenever he comes to Halifax. Dalhousie Arts Centre, 6101 University Ave. 902-494-3820. artscentre.dal.ca JOHN CRIST Nov. 13: Immature Thoughts tour. A YouTube sensation, this comedian focuses on Christian subculture, using humour to critique problems in the church. Dalhousie Arts Centre, 6101 University Ave. 902-494-3820. artscentre.dal.ca DEREK EDWARDS Nov. 1: So here’s the thing… tour. Known for his low-key and sarcastic style, Edwards is the only Canadian to win the Vail National Comedy Invitational. Dalhousie Arts Centre, 6101 University Ave. 902-494-3820. artscentre.dal.ca ‘TIS THE SEASON Dec. 9: Cape Breton’s Bette MacDonald and Maynard Morrison share the stage with Joe Waye Jr., Jordan Musycsyn, and Mary-Colin Chisholm for an evening of holiday humour and music. Dalhousie Arts Centre, 6101 University Ave. 902-494-3820. artscentre.dal.ca YUK YUK’S Open Wednesday–Saturday. Shows at 8pm. Students two-for-one on Tuesdays. Westin Nova Scotian Hotel, 1181 Hollis St. 902-429-YUKS (9857). yukyuks.com 20 where.ca NOV/DEC 2019

DANCE

LIVE ART DANCE Nov. 9: Juliet and Romeo. Calgary’s Decidedly Jazz Danceworks takes on Shakespeare with this original spokenword/dance production, featuring a four-piece band. Adapted by Cory Bowles, with original live music by the Nick Fraser Ensemble. Spatz Theatre, 1855 Trollope St. liveartdance.ca

DINNER THEATRE

GRAFTON STREET DINNER THEATRE Continuing through Nov. 9: Monsters’ Mash. Monsters gather for a supernatural evening of music and mayhem. Featuring 1950s rock ‘n roll. Nov. 15–Jan. 25: Hard Candy Christmas. A holiday musical comedy, featuring country tunes galore. 1741 Grafton St. 902-425-1961. graftonstdinnertheatre.com

EVENTS

A CONVERSATION WITH BARACK OBAMA Nov. 13 The popular Nobel Peace Prize winner and former American president sits down for an intimate chat about his career and the state of the world today. Scotiabank Centre, 1800 Argyle St. 902-451-1221. ticketatlantic.com CHRISTKINDL MARKET Dec. 6–8: German-style craft market. Toys, arts, ornaments, décor items, gifts aplenty. Holiday entertainment—marionettes, carousel, and musical acts. Alderney Landing, 2 Ochterloney St., Dartmouth. alderneylanding.com/events/other_events.html CHRISTMAS AT THE FORUM Nov. 1–3: This annual holiday market features food, art, crafts, antiques, and gifts from some 325 vendors from across Canada. Halifax Forum, 2901 Windsor St. 1-866-995-SHOW. christmasattheforum.com


CHRISTMAS CRAFT VILLAGE Nov. 8–10: Some 150 exhibitors—local food, handmade goods, unique gifts. Also on site is the Guy Show, spotlighting powersports, hunting, fishing, and local beer, wine, and spirits. Halifax Exhibition Centre, 200 Prospect Rd., Goodwood. christmascraftvillage.com CHRISTMAS TREE LIGHTING Nov. 23: This free family event sees the Christmas tree in Grand Parade Square in front of Halifax City Hall come to life. Live music, a visit from Santa Claus, fireworks, and more. 6–7pm. halifax.ca/recreation/events CRAFT NOVA SCOTIA CHRISTMAS SHOW Nov. 15–17: A juried selection of works in a variety of media from the dozens of artisans who comprise Craft Nova Scotia. Cunard Centre, 961 Marginal Rd. craftnovascotia.ca/events/christmas-show DALPLEX CHRISTMAS CRAFT MARKET Nov. 22–24: Featuring vendors from the Atlantic region and across Canada exhibiting handcrafted pottery, jewelry, art, woodwork, toys, handmade gifts, treats, and more. Dalplex, 6260 South St. athletics.dal.ca/dalplex_news_events DARTMOUTH CHRISTMAS TREE LIGHTING Dec. 7: Free rides on the Kiwanis Santa Claus Christmas Express Train, a visit with Santa, live music, fireworks, and more. Sullivan’s Pond at Ochterloney and Crichton streets. 4:30–6:15pm. halifax.ca/recreation/events HALIFAX EXPLOSION MEMORIAL Dec. 6: This solemn ceremony marks the anniversary of the Halifax Explosion, a First World War accident that levelled the city’s North End and killed some 2,000 people. 8:50am–9:20am. Fort Needham Bell Tower, 3372 Devonshire Ave. halifax.ca/recreation/arts-culture-heritage/halifax-explosion

HOLIDAY PARADE OF LIGHTS Nov. 16: This giant annual parade marks the unofficial start of the Christmas season in Halifax. Thousands will jam the downtown to see bands, floats, entertainers, and Santa Claus. It begins at 6pm on Upper Water Street, continuing south on Barrington Street then west on Spring Garden Road, then south on South Park Street and west on University Avenue, ending at the corner of Robie Street. discoverhalifaxns.com/event/d5c47d366d2a/ NEW YEAR’S EVE Dec. 31: Grand Parade Square in front of Halifax City Hall hosts a lively all-ages party from 10:30pm– midnight. Performers include Said The Whale and Zaki Ibrahim. At midnight, Atlantic Canada’s largest New Year’s Eve fireworks show rings in 2020. halifax.ca/recreation/events REMEMBRANCE DAY COMMEMORATIONS Nov. 11 Crowds gather at 11am at Grand Parade Square in front of Halifax City Hall and sites around the city for special ceremonies marking Canadians’ military service and sacrifice. downtownhalifax.ca/eventsandfestivals ROCK THE RINK Nov. 17: Figure skaters Tessa Virtue and Scott Moir, Patrick Chan, Kaetlyn Osmond, and Elvis Stojko perform with live music and dazzling lighting, video, and special effects. Scotiabank Centre, 1800 Argyle St. 902-451-1221. ticketatlantic.com VICTORIAN CHRISTMAS AT HALIFAX CITADEL Nov. 23–24: Experience the traditions of Christmas as enjoyed by British soldiers in Halifax in the 1800s. Meet Father Christmas, enjoy live music, dancing, and more. Noon–4pm. Halifax Citadel, corner of Sackville and Brunswick streets. pc.gc.ca

NOT GROWING UP

Christian comedian and YouTube star John Crist (page 20) brings his Immature Thoughts to the Dalhousie Arts Centre on Nov. 13. where.ca NOV/DEC 2019 21


ENTERTAINMENT

ART COMMUNITY

Some 24 local artists and artisans come together at the co-operative Art 1274 Hollis (below) gallery to share their works in a variety of media. This month see works by fibre artist Jessica Steponaitis.

EXHIBITS/GALLERIES

THE DART GALLERY Innovative and collaborative art exhibitions and events. Picnic at Dart showcases offers food and drinks inspired by the current artwork in the gallery. 127 Portland St. Dartmouth. 902-404-7330. thedartgallery.com

ARGYLE FINE ART Fine art and craft with new works of original, affordable paintings, jewelry, ceramic art, pottery, rug hooking, woodturning and upcycled metal work. 1559 Barrington St. 902- 425-9456. argylefineart.com

14 BELLS FINE ART GALLERY Affordable, original Canadian artwork from established and emerging artists. Hydrostone Market, 5523 Young St. 902-406-2355. 14bells.com

ANNA LEONOWENS GALLERY Weekly exhibitions of student work and selected projects by faculty members, visiting artists, and curators. 1891 Granville St. 902-494-8184.

ART 1274 HOLLIS Some 24 local artists and artisans run this lively co-operative gallery. Fine art and craft with a dynamic selection of original affordable paintings, jewelry, ceramics, pottery, hooked rugs, turned-wood pieces, and upcycled metal work. Continuing through November: Without Rules. Works by impressionistic realist oil painter Henry Tian and fibre artist Jessica Steponaitis. Open daily 10am–6pm. 1274 Hollis St. 902-446-4077. ART GALLERY OF NOVA SCOTIA Continuing through Jan. 26: Industrial Elements Air, Fire, Water, and Earth. This exhibition brings attention to past industrial activity in the province, juxtaposing works by 18th and 19th century artists with works by contemporary and folk artists. 1723 Hollis St. 902-424-5280. artgalleryofnovascotia.ca THE CRAIG GALLERY Continuing through Nov. 24: Mixed Media Paintings by Jenny Shi. Nov. 6–Dec. 1: Old Habits. Surreal feminist sculptures by Lee Cripps. Dec. 4–Jan. 5: New Ceramics by Toni Losey. Alderney Landing, 2 Ochterloney St., Dartmouth. alderneylanding.com/gallery DALHOUSIE ART GALLERY Continuing through Nov. 24: Atmospheric Events. Multi-media installations by James Geurts (Melbourne), Andreas Schmid (Berlin), and Christine Sciulli (New York City) that consider the ephemeral, mutable aspects of our environments. Dalhousie Arts Centre, 6101 University Ave. 902-494-3820. artgallery.dal.ca 22 where.ca NOV/DEC 2019

MARY E. BLACK GALLERY Specializing in fine craft from Atlantic Canadian artists. Continuing through Nov. 3: Craft Nova Scotia Annual Members Exhibition, plus CraftLAIR: Julian Covey Exhibition. Shed 21, 1061 Marginal Rd. 902-492-2522. craft-design.ns.ca SAINT MARY’S UNIVERSITY ART GALLERY Visiting exhibitions and a permanent collection of some 2,500 works. Continuing through Nov. 17: Lunar Voyage. Woodcuts by Tom Hammick exploring “the outsiderness of being an artist.” Loyola Building, 5865 Gorsebrook Ave. smu.ca/campus-life/art-gallery.html SECORD GALLERY Oil, acrylic, and mixed-media paintings; works on paper including original prints and photographs, plus sculpture and ceramics. 6301 Quinpool Rd. 902-423-6644. secordgallery.com STUDIO 21 FINE ART GALLERY Contemporary Canadian art in a variety of media, showcasing established and emerging artists. 5431 Doyle St. 902-420-1852. studio21.ca VIEWPOINT GALLERY Artist-run co-operative presenting a mix of solo and group photo exhibitions. 1459 Brenton St. 902-420-0854. viewpointgallery.ca VISUAL ARTS NOVA SCOTIA CORRIDOR GALLERY Featuring works by local talents in its Corridor Gallery. 1113 Marginal Rd. 902-423-4694 or 1-866-225-8267. visualarts.ns.ca


ZWICKER’S GALLERY Fine art in many categories and styles, including antique nautical charts, maps, and engravings. Contemporary works by emerging artists, historical art from established names, Inuit and native works, sculptures, ceramics, and antiquities. 5415 Doyle St. 902-423-7662. zwickersgallery.ca

MOVIES

CINEPLEX THEATRES Several Metro locations. Halifax: 190 Chain Lake Dr. and 5657 Spring Garden Rd. Dartmouth Crossing: 145 Shubie Dr. Lower Sackville: 760 Sackville Dr. 1-800-333-0061. cineplex.com HARRY POTTER & THE PHILOSOPHER’S STONE Nov. 15: Experience the movie in high definition as a live symphony orchestra performs John Williams’s unforgettable score. Scotiabank Centre, 1800 Argyle St. 902-451-1221. ticketatlantic.com

MUSIC

THE BARRA MacNEILS Dec. 22: An East Coast Christmas. The Cape Breton musical siblings offer a new show full of seasonal favourites, original tunes, songs, stories, and dance, all with a Celtic spin. Dalhousie Arts Centre, 6101 University Ave. 902-494-3820. artscentre.dal.ca BONEY M Dec. 18: Holiday Favourites & Classic Hits. A timely visit from the Euro-Caribbean vocal group best known for the holiday staple “Mary’s Boy Child—Oh My Lord.” Scotiabank Centre, 1800 Argyle St. 902-451-1221. ticketatlantic.com

DANIEL CAESAR Nov. 14: This Grammy-winning singer/ songwriter is one of the hottest names in R&B today. Scotiabank Centre, 1800 Argyle St. 902-451-1221. ticketatlantic.com CECILIA CONCERT SERIES Nov. 9: Genius Child: Portia White at Town Hall. Soprano Harolyn Blackwell, pianist Danny Zelibor at St. George’s Round Church. Nov. 22: Dinuk Wijeratne Trio at Halifax Central Library. Dec. 8: Pianist Devin Huang at the Maritime Conservatory of Performing Arts. ceciliaconcerts.ca CITY AND COLOUR Nov. 29: AKA Dallas Green from Alexisonfire, this multi-talented artist is known for his intense live performances and solid songwriting chops. Scotiabank Centre, 1800 Argyle St. 902-451-1221. ticketatlantic.com DARTMOUTH COMMUNITY CONCERT ASSOCIATION Nov. 15: A solo performance by Lucas Porter, a virtuoso hailed as a “young lion of the keyboard.” Woodlawn United Church, 54 Woodlawn Rd., Dartmouth. dartmouthcommunityconcert.ca THE ENNIS SISTERS Nov. 27: The singing sisters from Newfoundland celebrate Christmas with a mix of original songs and seasonal favourites. Dalhousie Arts Centre, 6101 University Ave. 902-494-3820. artscentre.dal.ca JAZZ AT STAYNER’S Get your Thursday night jazz fix at this weekly concert series. Stayner’s Wharf Pub & Grill, 5075 George St. 902-492-1800. jazzeast.com GORDON LIGHTFOOT Nov. 22–24: A rare East Coast performance by the influential folk-pop singer/songwriter, known for hits like “Sundown,” “If You Could Read My Mind,” and “Canadian Railroad Trilogy.” Dalhousie Arts Centre, 6101 University Ave. 902-494-3820. artscentre.dal.ca

PUNK PARTY

Relive your 1990s glory days at Scotiabank Centre on Nov. 12, as punk-rock mainstays The Offspring (page 24) share the stage with Sum 41. NOV/DEC 2019 where.ca

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ENTERTAINMENT

WORDS & MUSIC

An acclaimed local poet joins forces with Symphony Nova Scotia (below) on Nov. 7 for Melody and Poetry with Rebecca Thomas at the Dalhousie Arts Centre. MATT MAYS Nov. 15–16: Howl at the Night Tour. The hardrocking Nova Scotian singer/songwriter always brings his best stuff for his hometown fans. Dalhousie Arts Centre, 6101 University Ave. 902-494-3820. artscentre.dal.ca THE OFFSPRING WITH SUM 41 Nov. 12: It’s an evening of high-octane skate punk with two of the hottest bands of the late 1990s. Scotiabank Centre, 1800 Argyle St. 902-451-1221. ticketatlantic.com

SPORTS

HALIFAX MOOSEHEADS (Quebec Major Junior Hockey League) Regular season. Nov. 2: Saint John. Nov. 8: Drummondville. Nov. 9: Acadie-Bathurst. Nov. 21: BaieComeau. Nov. 23: Moncton. Nov. 30: Blainville-Boisbriand. Dec. 6: Cape Breton. Dec. 13: Charlottetown. Dec. 28: Cape Breton. Dec. 31: Saint John. Scotiabank Centre, 1800 Argyle St. 902-451-1221. halifaxmooseheads.ca

JOHNNY REID Nov. 20: My Kind of Christmas. Special guests join the country star for a holiday celebration. Scotiabank Centre, 1800 Argyle St. 902-451-1221. ticketatlantic.com

HALIFAX THUNDERBIRDS (National Lacrosse League) Regular season. Dec. 7: New York. Dec. 21: Rochester. Scotiabank Centre, 1800 Argyle St. 902-451-1221. halifaxthunderbirds.com

RUMOURS Nov. 10: Billed as the “ultimate Fleetwood Mac tribute show.” Dalhousie Arts Centre, 6101 University Ave. 902-494-3820. artscentre.dal.ca

THEATRE

SYMPHONY NOVA SCOTIA Nov. 3: Inspiring Bach. Nov. 7: Melody and Poetry with Rebecca Thomas. Nov. 9, 10, 12: Symphony Got Style. Nov. 15: Harry Potter & The Philosopher’s Stone in Concert. Nov. 21: Mr. & Mrs. Schumann. Nov. 23, 24: NYSO: Tchaikovsky’s Symphony No. 2. Nov. 29–Dec. 1: Christmas with Heather Rankin and Friends. Dec. 6–15: The Nutcracker with Mermaid Theatre and Halifax Dance. Dec. 20–21: Handel’s Messiah. Dalhousie Arts Centre, 6101 University Ave. 902-494-3820. symphonynovascotia.ca

JERSEY BOYS Nov. 26: Go behind the music and inside the story of Frankie Valli and The Four Seasons in the Tony-winning truelife musical phenomenon. Scotiabank Centre, 1800 Argyle St. 902-451-1221. ticketatlantic.com NEPTUNE THEATRE Continuing through Nov. 17: Old Stock: A Refugee Love Story. A “Klezmer-folk music-theatre hybrid” starring Ben Caplan. Nov. 26–Jan. 5: Peter Pan. Full of pop songs and light-hearted humour, this musical comedy will entertain all ages. Nov. 27-Dec. 28: Dickens’ A Christmas Carol. A hilarious one-man show starring Rhys Bevan-John. 1593 Argyle St. 902-429-7070. neptunetheatre.com THEATRE ARTS GUILD Nov. 21–Dec. 7: The Wizard of …Oz? Rollicking old-fashioned pantomimes, with lively music, slapstick humour, and audience participation, are a rite of the season at Canada’s oldest community theatre. Pond Playhouse, 6 Parkhill Rd., Jollimore. tagtheatre.com

ARTISTIC TOUCH Argyle Fine Art (page 22) on Barrington Street is a cornerstone of the city’s contemporary-art scene. Discover a broad selection of paintings, drawings, limited edition prints, fibre, sculpture, and photography. 24 where.ca NOV/DEC 2019


PHOTO: DESTINATION CANADA

THE ESSENTIAL CITY

THOSE WHO LIKE IT

Journey back in time to colonial Halifax and learn about Nova Scotia’s favourite beer at the Alexander Keith’s Nova Scotia Brewery (below).

ATTRACTIONS

ALEXANDER KEITH’S NOVA SCOTIA BREWERY Explore restored portions of Alexander Keith’s home, brewhouse, and a 200-year-old private tavern. Tour includes traditional songs, stories, and samples of Keith’s beer. Tours daily until Oct. 31; Friday–Sunday Nov. 1–May 31. Book tours during the week for large groups. Admission charged. Retail store open daily, yearround. 1496 Lower Water St., 902-455-1474. keiths.ca FISHERMAN’S COVE Quaint, restored 200-year-old fishing village with a variety of activities for the whole family. At the entrance to Halifax Harbour, a 20-minute drive from downtown. Picturesque boardwalk, with shops offering Maritime crafts, unique folk art, candy, and souvenirs. Also: seafood restaurant, bakery, café, art gallery, and a Marine Interpretative Centre. Free admission. Open daily. Duration of visit: about two hours. W. 30 Government Wharf Rd., Eastern Passage. 902-465-6093. fishermanscove.ns.ca HALIFAX CENTRAL LIBRARY Making a bold architectural statement, this library draws acclaim from around the world. Free Wi-Fi. Great views of the city from the rooftop patio. Hosts readings and special events. Halifax Public Libraries has 14 branches around the city. 5440 Spring Garden Rd. 902-490-5700. halifaxpubliclibraries.ca HALIFAX PUBLIC GARDENS Opened in 1867, this is one of North America’s finest formal Victorian gardens. Surrounded by a wrought-iron fence and protected by a magnificent tree canopy, its 6.5 hectares include formal floral displays, weeping trees, fountains, roses, magnolias, and foliage plants. Ducks and geese splash in the ponds. Duration of visit: about an hour. Smoke-free. Café on-site. Main entrance on the corner of Spring Garden Road and South Park Street. Open daily 7am–30 minutes before sunset; off-season 8am–4pm. halifaxpublicgardens.ca

HATFIELD FARM COWBOY ADVENTURES Boasts 20+ horses and 12 kilometres of woodland trails. Wagon/sleigh and trail rides, a petting pen, cookouts, overnight adventures, allinclusive weddings, birthday parties, and corporate meetings. 1840 Hammonds Plains Rd., Hammonds Plains. 902-835-5676 or 877-835-5676. hatfieldfarm.com NOVASCOTIAN CRYSTAL Makers of fine, mouth-blown, hand-cut crystal, using Old World tools and techniques. Full line of handcrafted products. Showroom open year-round, glassworks hours vary seasonally. International shipping. 5080 George St. 902-492-0416 or 1-888-977-2797 in Canada and the U.S. novascotiancrystal.com PEGGY’S COVE The famous lighthouse, perched atop ancient granite worn smooth by the pounding waves, dominates this rugged fishing community. Explore the unique rock formations but be careful: the rocks can be slippery (if they’re black, they’re wet and unsafe to walk on) and the waves are dangerously unpredictable. Restaurants, galleries, shops, and accommodations nearby. Rte. 333, 44 kilometres west of Halifax.

This directory includes editors’ recommendations and regular advertisers. Information is subject to change, so call ahead to avoid disappointment. ATTRACTIONS.....................................................................EC1 GETTING AROUND ���������������������������������������������������������� EC2 HISTORIC SITES ����������������������������������������������������������������� EC2 PARKS..................................................................................... EC5 MUSEUMS �������������������������������������������������������������������������� EC7 SCIENCE CENTRES ������������������������������������������������������������EC9 W.......................................................... Wheelchair accessible OCTOBER 2019–APRIL 2020 //

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THE ESSENTIAL CITY GETTING AROUND

ANGUS L. MACDONALD BRIDGE

AIR SERVICE There is regular service from Halifax’s Stanfield International Airport to major North American and European destinations with connections spanning the globe. Arrange taxi and limo service at the Ground Transportation desk. MetroX bus service connects the airport to the urban core (halifax.ca/transit or call 311). 1 Bell Blvd., Enfield (Exit 6, off Hwy. 102). 902-873-4422. halifaxairport.com HALIFAX TRANSIT $2.75 for adults, $2 for seniors/children. Free transfers between buses and ferries. The Halifax ferry terminal is at the corner of George and Lower Water streets. The main Dartmouth ferry terminal is at Alderney Landing on Ochterloney Street, also ferry service between Woodside and Halifax (Monday–Friday, peak hours only). Dial 311 for schedules and route information. halifax.ca/transit INTERPROVINCIAL FERRIES Saint John, N.B. to Digby, N.S. (year-round): 1-888-249-7245, ferries.ca. Wood Islands, P.E.I. to Caribou, N.S. (May 1–Dec. 20): 1-888-249-7245, ferries.ca. North Sydney, N.S. to Port aux Basques, N.L. (yearround): 1-800-341-7981, marineatlantic.ca

PHOTO: TOURISM NOVA SCOTIA

INTERCITY RAIL & BUS SERVICES Maritime Bus Service links Halifax with the Annapolis Valley, northern Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, P.E.I., New Brunswick, Quebec (Rivière-du-Loup), and Maine (Bangor): 902-429-2029, maritimebus.com. The Via Rail train The Ocean leaves Halifax for Montreal on Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday with connections to the rest of Canada and the U.S.: 888-842-7245, viarail.ca. All depart from 1161 Hollis St. PARKING Many streets have metered parking (with time and date restrictions; check the signs). The colour atop the meters indicates the maximum parking time (red: 30 minutes, grey: 90 minutes, green: two hours, yellow: three or five hours). You’ll also find privately operated parking lots on the waterfront and at most shopping malls and hotels. TOLL BRIDGES The Angus L. Macdonald Bridge (the “Old Bridge”) and the A. Murray MacKay Bridge (the “New Bridge”) link Halifax and Dartmouth. Toll is $1 cash (quarters, loonies, and toonies only) or 80 cents for MacPass users. No pedestrians or cyclists allowed on the MacKay Bridge. hdbc.ca

SHUBENACADIE CANAL Following an ancient Mi’kmaq route across Nova Scotia, the canal links a series of lakes and rivers between Halifax Harbour and the Bay of Fundy. Lock 1 is in Dartmouth between Sullivan’s Pond and Lake Banook. The Fairbanks Centre (open during business hours year-round) at 54 Locks Rd., Dartmouth (off Waverley Road., Hwy. 318) displays the history of this National Historic Civil Engineering Site. Broad trails follow the old canal for 20 kilometres. Follow Hwy. 2 up the lakes to pass Lock 4 in Fall River, Lock 5 in a small park at Wellington, and Lock 6 in Enfield. Fairbanks Centre: 902-462-1826. shubenacadiecanal.ca SULLIVAN’S POND This artificial pond in the heart of Dartmouth was constructed as part of the Shubenacadie Canal system. Surrounded by landscaped lawns, attractive floral displays and trees, with a bandstand at its centre, the area is now a civic park and serves as a temporary home for hundreds of migrating waterfowl. Ochterloney and Crichton streets, Dartmouth. EC2

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OCTOBER 2019–APRIL 2020

VISITOR INFORMATION There are Nova Scotia Visitor Information Centres at 1655 Lower Water St. (902-424-4248) and the airport (902-873-1223). The provincial hotline (1-800-565-0000) also offers tourist information. novascotia.com

WORLD PEACE PAVILION Conceived by Metro Youth for Global Unity, the triangular-shaped monument incorporates rocks and bricks from countries all over the world. Displays include a 90-kilogram piece of the Berlin Wall. On the waterfront in Dartmouth’s Ferry Terminal Park.

HISTORIC SITES

CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF ALL SAINTS (Anglican) Gothicstyle cathedral opened in 1910. Notable for its stained-glass windows, the beautiful woodcarvings of its pulpit and chancel, and hand-done needlework on the kneelers and bishop’s stall. Visitors welcome. Duration of visit: about 30 minutes. Usually open Monday–Friday, 9:30am–3pm, plus Sunday worship. Voluntary donation. 1330 Cathedral Ln. 902-423-6002. cathedralchurchofallsaints.com


THE ESSENTIAL CITY CHRIST CHURCH (Anglican) The oldest church in Dartmouth (built in 1817), this registered heritage building exemplifies Georgian architectural design. The beautiful stained-glass windows were presented as memorials. The weather vane atop the steeple depicts Halley’s Comet. Genealogical service available. Visit by appointment. 50 Wentworth St., Dartmouth. 902-466-4270. christchurchdartmouth.com

THE WAY WE WERE

Costumed reenactors bring history to life at Halifax Citadel (below).

GEORGES ISLAND From the Halifax waterfront, look south toward the harbour entrance at the grassy island with the small lighthouse. From the mid-18th century to the Second World War, Georges Island was the scene of constant military activity and integral in the defence of Halifax Harbour. Open for special events only. pc.gc.ca

GRANVILLE MALL Destroyed by fire in 1859, the wooden buildings on this block were rebuilt in the Italianate style. The streetscape features 17 heritage buildings. Today, it features an attractive plaza and a collection of restaurants, shops, and a pub. When building the Barrington Hotel on the west side of the plaza, workers restored the original façades. North end of Granville Street. HALIFAX CITADEL NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE Completed in 1856, the present Citadel is the fourth in a series of forts since 1749 to occupy the hill overlooking the harbour. Although never attacked, the fort was occupied by the British army until 1906 and by Canadian forces during the world wars. Operated by Parks Canada, the Citadel is one of Canada’s most visited National Historic Sites. Army Museum on site. Admission charged May 7–Oct. 31. Grounds open year-round. Average duration of visit: three hours. Entrance at corner of Sackville and Brunswick streets. 902-426-5080. pc.gc.ca HALIFAX CITY HALL This noble, eclectic Victorian structure has stood guard over the Grand Parade square (the symbolic centre of Halifax) since 1888. In 1984, Halifax City Hall became a National Historic Site, lauded for the “civic pride and optimism…symbolized by its monumental scale, elaborate design and prominent location.” 1841 Argyle St. halifax.ca/community/HalifaxCityHall/index.html HISTORIC PROPERTIES Covering three square blocks, this collection of restored heritage buildings includes stone warehouses built to hold privateers’ booty at the turn of the 18th century. The area was nearly lost to urban renewal but in 1963 was designated a National Historic Site. Cobbled courtyards and waterfront boardwalks offer an array of shops, dining spots, and other businesses. Open daily. Upper Water Street, north from Duke Street. 902-429-0530. historicproperties.ca THE HYDROSTONE 1917’s Halifax Explosion (see Fort Needham Memorial Bell Tower) destroyed almost all of Halifax’s North End. The reconstruction included 328 houses built from unique cement blocks known as hydrostone. Today, the area is called “The Hydrostone,” one of the city’s most attractive neighbourhoods. The houses are private but you can amble around the shops and restaurants of the Hydrostone Market between Agricola and Gottingen streets. 5509–5555 Young St. hydrostonemarket.ca

PHOTO: DESTINATION CANADA

GOVERNMENT HOUSE Built for Sir John and Lady Frances Wentworth between 1800 and 1805, Government House is one of the oldest official residences in Canada. Today it’s the residence and office of Nova Scotia’s Lieutenant-Governor. Open to the public only during special events; see website for schedule. W. 1451 Barrington St. 902-424-7001. lt.gov.ns.ca

LITTLE DUTCH CHURCH (Lutheran/Anglican) German settlers who arrived in the 1750s founded this tiny church on Brunswick Street, the oldest Lutheran church in Canada. (“Dutch” was a common term for speakers of any Germanic language). By the end of the 18th century, the congregation had outgrown the little church and built Saint George’s Round Church, which became an Anglican church in 1827. Tours by appointment (St. George’s Parish Office: 902-423-1059 or office@roundchurch.ca). McNABS ISLAND Once key to the harbour defence system, this island just inside the entrance to Halifax Harbour now offers picnicking and hiking. Trails lead past the island’s lighthouse, abandoned fortifications, beaches, and old homesteads where gardens now grow wild. Accessible by ferry from Eastern Passage or charter boat from Cable Wharf at the foot of George Street and the Northwest Arm. NEW HORIZONS BAPTIST CHURCH Formerly Cornwallis Street Baptist Church, this heritage property is considered the mother church of the African United Baptist Association. Since its founding in 1832 by former slave Rev. Richard Preston, this church has become a touchstone for Halifax’s Black community. Worship Sunday at 10:45am; visit other times by appointment. 5457 Cornwallis St. 902-429-5573. newhorizonsbaptist.ca OLD BURYING GROUND The first burial here came a day after the arrival of Edward Cornwallis, who established a settlement in 1749. The earliest gravestone dates from 1752. The entrance is dominated by the lion-topped WelsfordParker Monument, the only such memorial to the Crimean War in North America. Restorations are ongoing; visitors are encouraged to ramble through Halifax’s past. Interpretation plaques on-site help you delve into history. Open May– October. Free admission, donations welcome. Barrington Street at Spring Garden Road. OCTOBER 2019–APRIL 2020 //

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THE ESSENTIAL CITY TIME KEEPS ON TICKIN’

PHOTO: TOURISM NOVA SCOTIA/WALLY HAYES

For more than two centuries, the Old Town Clock has stood sentinel over downtown Halifax.

OLD TOWN CLOCK This Halifax landmark has watched over the city ever since its workings arrived from England in 1803. The dashing Duke of Kent, head of the garrison at Halifax from 1794–1800 and eventual father of Queen Victoria, designed this timepiece to keep the garrison and townspeople punctual. At the base of Citadel Hill (on Brunswick Street at the top of George Street). OUR LADY OF SORROWS CHAPEL (Roman Catholic) Marching from St. Mary’s Basilica to the site, more than 1,800 people erected this beautiful little church in just one day: August 31, 1843. The French stained-glass windows date to the 16th and 17th centuries. The chapel sits on the crest of a hill in the Holy Cross Cemetery at the corner of South and South Park streets. Contact St. Mary’s Basilica: 902-423-4116. PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH OF ST. DAVID Built in 1868–69, this was originally the home of the Grafton Street Methodist Church. Since 1925, it has been home to the Presbyterian Church of St. David. Inside, find stained-glass windows and a Casavant Frères organ. 1544 Grafton St. 902-423-1944. saintdavids.ca PRINCE OF WALES TOWER NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE Edward, Duke of Kent (Queen Victoria’s father), had the tower built in the 1790s to help protect British gun batteries on the coast of what today is Point Pleasant Park. The round, thick-walled fort was the first of its type in North America, a prototype of a new system of coastal defences. Grounds open year-round. Point Pleasant Park, (entrances at the south end of Tower Road and Point Pleasant Drive). 902-426 5080. pc.gc.ca PROVINCE HOUSE Completed in 1819, Nova Scotia’s provincial legislative building is Canada’s oldest seat of government. Today a National Historic Site, it is one of the finest examples of 19th-century Georgian architecture in North America. Free admission. Open weekdays for self-guided tours 9am–4pm. 1726 Hollis St. 902-424-4661. nslegislature.ca EC4

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OCTOBER 2019–APRIL 2020

ST. GEORGE’S GREEK ORTHODOX CHURCH The heart of Halifax’s vibrant Greek community, this church hosts concerts, cultural and community events, including the annual Halifax Greek Fest (mid June). 38 Purcell’s Cove Rd. 902-479-1271. halifaxgreeks.ca ST. GEORGE’S ROUND CHURCH (Anglican) In building this unique church, the German congregation (see Little Dutch Church) had the help of a royal patron, Edward, Duke of Kent (father of Queen Victoria): a talented amateur architect with a fondness for round classical Palladian buildings. In 1912, it hosted a funeral service for the “Unknown Child” from the Titanic. Holds baptismal, marriage, and burial records dating to the 1950s. Contact the parish office to set up a tour. 2222 Brunswick St. 902-423-1059. roundchurch.ca ST. MARY’S CATHEDRAL BASILICA (Roman Catholic) When construction began on St. Mary’s in 1820, the design was for a smaller Georgian church. In the 1860s and 1870s, the building was transformed inside and out to the grand Victorian Gothic style. Acclaimed New York architect Patrick Charles Keely (who designed more than 500 North American churches) designed the highly embellished façade. Open year-round, tours by appointment. A small museum is at the back of the altar. 5221 Spring Garden Rd. 902-429-9800. stmbasilica.com ST. MATTHEW’S UNITED CHURCH In 1749, the Church of England started St. Paul’s. Dissenters (mostly Congregationalists from New England) were allowed to worship there until they had their own place of worship— Mather’s Church, later to become St. Matthew’s, at the corner of Hollis and Prince streets. Relocated in 1859 to Barrington Street, St. Matthew’s is the oldest United (Non-Conformist) Church in Canada. Guided tours by appointment. Sunday worship at 10:30am. W. 1479 Barrington St. 902-423-9209. stmatts.ns.ca


THE BIG HARBOUR

PHOTO: TOURISM NOVA SCOTIA

A popular destination for visitors and locals alike, the Halifax waterfront bustles year-round.

PARKS

ST. PAUL’S ANGLICAN CHURCH Founded by royal proclamation in 1749 and built in 1750, St. Paul’s is the oldest Protestant church in Canada and the oldest building in Halifax. The crypt holds the remains of illustrious British colonials. St. Paul’s was Britain’s first overseas cathedral. The memorial tablets on its walls form a fascinating record of the early settlers. The “Explosion Window” and piece of window frame embedded in the interior wall of the narthex are relics of the 1917 Halifax Explosion. Open weekdays year-round; weekdays and Saturdays in summer. Parish liturgies open to visitors Sunday and Wednesday (see website for times). Genealogical services available for a fee. W. Grand Parade, 1749 Argyle St. 902-429-2240. stpaulshalifax.org

SS ATLANTIC HERITAGE PARK In 1873, 562 people died off the shores of Lower Prospect when the SS Atlantic sank. It was the worst single-vessel marine disaster to occur off Canada’s coast prior to the Titanic. This heritage site is the burial place for 277 of the victims and includes a park with a seaside boardwalk and a monument to the victims. About 32 kilometres west of Halifax along the Lighthouse Route (Route 333, follow the highway signs). Open mid May–end of October. Park is wheelchair accessible and open year-round (no winter maintenance). Free admission. 180 Sandy Cove Rd., Terence Bay. 902-852-1557. ssatlantic.com

YORK REDOUBT NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE The site’s earliest fortifications were built in 1793 at the outbreak of war between Britain and revolutionary France. Visit the Command Post built during the Second World War, when the site was the nerve centre for Halifax’s defence. Enjoy a picnic among the trees and walk along coastal trails. Grounds open daily yearround (no off-season maintenance). Average duration of visit: about two hours. Off Rte. 253/Purcell’s Cove Rd., a 25-minute drive from downtown Halifax. 902-426-5080. pc.gc.ca

PHOTO: DISCOVER HALIFAX

SAINT PATRICK’S CHURCH (Roman Catholic) Built in 1885. Distinctive features include an Irish harp carved at the end of each pew, a Casavant Frères organ dating back to 1889, exquisite stained glass from the Mayer Company of Munich, Germany and featuring a shamrock in every single window, a marble high altar, statues of Mary and Joseph (the Patron Saint of Canada), and more. Mass on Sunday at 10am. Phone or drop by the Church Hall to arrange a tour. 2267 Brunswick St. 902-429-4170. saintpatrickschurch.ca

TIME TESTED

Built in 1819, Province House (page EC4) is Canada’s oldest seat of government. OCTOBER 2019–APRIL 2020 //

where.ca EC5


THE ESSENTIAL CITY AFRICVILLE/SEAVIEW PARK Former site of Africville, a black community that was relocated in the 1960s (see commemorative plaque on-site). A recent project rebuilt the historic Seaview Baptist Church that stood on this site, and restored the area’s original name. The park is the site of an annual Africville Reunion (typically the last weekend in July). Average duration of visit: 30 minutes. North end of Barrington Street at Africville Road, below the MacKay Bridge. africville.ca

FORT NEEDHAM MEMORIAL BELL TOWER The tower overlooks the North End of Halifax, an area devastated by the Halifax Explosion, which took place when the Belgian relief ship Imo collided with the French munitions vessel Mont-Blanc on Dec. 6, 1917. The tower pays tribute to the 2,000 people who died. Average duration of visit: half an hour. Union Street, near Novalea Drive. HALIFAX COMMON Originally laid out in 1762, this is Canada’s oldest city park and serves as a major recreational area. Children clamber about the large playground and athletes of all ages play baseball, football, soccer, and other sports until dark. Skating Oval hosts in-line skating in warmer weather and ice skating in winter (free skate and helmet rentals on site). Bordered by Robie, Cogswell, and North Park streets.

DARTMOUTH COMMON Follow the path to the top of the hill and enjoy a breathtaking view of the Halifax Harbour. A cairn commemorates the 1750 landing of 353 settlers from the ship Alderney and the founding of the original town of Dartmouth. The Common includes Leighton Dillman Scenic Garden (named for the volunteer who created it). Average duration of visit: one hour. Bordered by Alderney Drive, Nantucket Avenue, Victoria Road, and Park Avenue.

HEMLOCK RAVINE PARK When Edward, Duke of Kent (and eventual father of Queen Victoria) arrived in Halifax in 1794 to command the Halifax garrison, he lived at an elaborate estate with his French mistress, Julie St. Laurent. Its only remaining building is an elegant rotunda perched between the water and the Bedford Highway. The rotunda isn’t open to the public, but the park welcomes visitors year-round. Graceful paths lead to Julie’s heart-shaped pond. Average duration of visit: one hour. Enter at the top of Kent Avenue. off the Bedford Highway (Rte. 2) or behind Grosvenor Wentworth Park School, off Kearney Lake Road. (Grosvenor Road to Castlehill Drive to Downing Street).

FERRY TERMINAL PARK Enjoy the scenery in and around this park from its boardwalks, which follow the shores of Halifax Harbour. The ship Alderney landed here, carrying the first 353 settlers to Dartmouth in 1750. Average duration of visit: half an hour. Adjacent to the Halifax Transit ferry terminal on Alderney Drive in Dartmouth.

POINT PLEASANT PARK Magnificent views of ships and yachts entering and leaving the busy harbour. The park’s 39 kilometres of roads and trails wind through the forest and among military ruins, rocky hills, and ravines. Average duration of visit: two hours. Picnic tables available. Entrances and parking lots at the south ends of Tower Road and Point Pleasant Drive. Halifax Transit route 29. Open year-round. pointpleasantpark.ca THE SANDS AT SALTER Green space, seating, and a connection to an extended boardwalk with waterfront hammocks. Seasonal vendors line the path. Located at the foot of Salter Street. developns.ca/projects/sands-at-salter/

SHIP TO SHORE

The Halifax Transit (EC2) passenger ferry sails between the downtown and Dartmouth many times each day. EC6

where.ca // OCTOBER 2019–APRIL 2020

PHOTO: DESTINATION CANADA

SHUBIE PARK Running through the park, the Shubenacadie Canal spanned Nova Scotia in the 1800s. Notice the difference between the forests on either side of the canal. On the west side, pioneer species such as birch, aspen, and blueberry colonized a burnt area. On the other side, the trees are older and mostly hemlock, spruce, and fir. On the islands in the lakes at either end of the park are the best examples of the original pine forest. 54 Locks Rd., Dartmouth SIR SANDFORD FLEMING PARK Two major walking trails wind through this 38-hectare park. Dominating the park is the Memorial Tower, an imposing landmark built by Sir Sandford Fleming in the early 1900s to commemorate the first legislative assembly in the British Empire (1758). Playground made of hand-carved tree trunks on-site. Average duration of visit: about two hours. Located on Dingle Road, off Purcell’s Cove Road, about two kilometres from the Armdale Roundabout. Tower open daily, May–November; grounds open year-round though not winter maintained.


WELCOME HOME

PHOTO: TOURISM NOVA SCOTIA

The Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21 (below) shares the stories of thousands of newcomers.

MUSEUMS ARMY MUSEUM Dozens of artifacts reflecting Atlantic Canada’s military heritage, located in the Cavalier Building of the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site. W. Open daily May 7–Oct. 31, off-season by appointment. Admission included with entrance fee to Halifax Citadel. Visit: two hours. 902-422-5979. armymuseumhalifax.ca BLACK CULTURAL CENTRE FOR NOVA SCOTIA This museum, cultural, and education centre is dedicated to the preservation and promotion of African-Canadian history in Nova Scotia. The centre houses history archives, static and audio-visual displays, a library, and an amphitheatre for cultural performances and lectures. Self-guided tours. Gift shop. Open Monday–Friday, 10am–4pm; noon–4pm on Saturday. Admission charged. W. 1149 Main St., Dartmouth. 902-434-6223 or 800-465-0767. bccns.com CANADIAN MUSEUM OF IMMIGRATION AT PIER 21 Discover Canada’s ongoing immigration story at this former gateway to Canada. Interactive exhibits, first-person stories, and hands-on activities. Admission charged. Family-history centre, permanent and visiting exhibitions, and gift shop. Minimum two-hour visit. Guided tours. Open year-round. Admission charged, group rates. 1055 Marginal Rd. 902-425-7770. pier21.ca

COLE HARBOUR HERITAGE FARM MUSEUM An original 200-year-old farm now surrounded by modern development this rural oasis in the city features traditional farm animals, heritage buildings, farm equipment and household tools from the community, gardens, and walking paths. Tea room and gift shop on site. Open May 15–Oct 15., Monday–Saturday, 10am–4pm; Sunday and holidays, noon–4pm. Tearoom on site. Museum services available by appointment year-round, including inquiries, tours, and events. Admission by donation. 471 Poplar Dr., Cole Harbour. 902-434-0222. coleharbourfarmmuseum.ca DARTMOUTH HERITAGE MUSEUM In Evergreen House, a 15-minute walk from the Halifax Transit ferry terminal in Dartmouth. Built in 1867, this Victorian home was frequented by Joseph Howe and was home to nationally acclaimed Nova Scotian folklorist Helen Creighton. Archival reference service by appointment. Open year-round, Tuesday–Saturday 10am–5pm. (Closed 1–2pm Saturday). See website for offseason hours. Admission by donation (Members and children under 12 are free). Group rates. Gift shop. 26 Newcastle St., Dartmouth. 902-464-2300. dartmouthheritagemuseum.ns.ca FISHERMAN’S LIFE MUSEUM This tiny house and gardens have been preserved just as they were at the turn of the century when this was the home of an inshore fisherman, his wife, and their 13 daughters. There’s always a knowledgeable guide ready to share stories of days gone by. Open daily June 1–Oct. 1, 8am–4pm. Parking, picnic tables, washrooms on site. Bus tours welcome. Admission charged. 58 Navy Pool Loop, Jeddore Oyster Pond. 902-889-2053. fishermans life. novascotia.ca OCTOBER 2019–APRIL 2020 //

where.ca EC7


THE ESSENTIAL CITY

HMCS SACKVILLE The last of its kind, this Flower-class corvette escorted convoys from Canada to Northern Ireland from 1942 to 1944. After years as a research vessel and naval auxiliary, Sackville was transferred to the Canadian Naval Memorial Trust in the 1980s, restored to its 1944 appearance, and dedicated as Canada’s National Naval Memorial. Berthed off-season in the Naval Dockyard; check website for visitation details. 902-427-2837. hmcssackville.ca MARITIME MUSEUM OF THE ATLANTIC Permanent major exhibits include Titanic: The Unsinkable Ship and Halifax, Shipwreck Treasures of Nova Scotia, Halifax Wrecked: The Story of the Halifax Explosion, North Atlantic Convoys, and the Navy Gallery (featuring a rare Victoria Cross medal). Also galleries on Days of Sail and Small Craft. Gift shop. Visit: 90 minutes. Open year-round. Admission charged (free Tuesday 5pm–8pm). W. 1675 Lower Water St. 902-424-7491. maritimemuseum.novascotia.ca

OCEAN EXPLORER

MEMORY LANE HERITAGE VILLAGE “Living history” museum captures the sights and sounds of a typical 1940s Nova Scotian coastal village. The 18 restored buildings include a general store, church, homestead, barn, ice house, gold mine, and boat-building shop. Traditional lumber camp cookhouse serves meals daily. Antique vehicles, farm animals, mobile media exhibits, and Archives Research Centre on-site (by appointment). Gift shop, public washrooms, free Wi-Fi. French and German spoken. Open off-season by appointment. Admission charged. Senior and group discounts. Children under 5 free. A 50-minute drive east of Halifax. 5435 Clam Harbour Rd., Lake Charlotte. 902-845-1937 or 877-287-0697. heritagevillage.ca MUSQUODOBOIT HARBOUR RAILWAY MUSEUM Housed in the former railway station (circa 1918) and several railway cars, the museum traces the history of the railway and its importance to the development of this region. Hours vary— call to confirm. A 40-kilometre drive east of Dartmouth on Hwy. 7, near the junction of Hwy. 357. Musquodoboit Harbour. 902-889-2689. mhrailwaymuseum.com NAVAL MUSEUM OF HALIFAX Admiralty House, a National Historic Site built in 1819, boasts a library of more than 5,000 volumes, archives, and a permanent collection displaying historical artifacts, including model ships, weapons, photos, and medals. Exhibits include The Great War, Battle of the Atlantic, and Halifax Explosion. Open Monday–Friday, 9am–4pm. Closed on holidays. Admission by donation. Gift shop. Admiralty House, 2725 Gottingen St. 902-721-8250. hmhps.ca/sites/admiralty-house-naval-museum

Discover our rich seafaring heritage at the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic (above) on Lower Water Street. EC8

where.ca //

OCTOBER 2019–APRIL 2020

PHOTO: TOURISM NOVA SCOTIA/SCOTT MUNN

FULTZ HOUSE MUSEUM Located in a house dating back to the 1860s, the museum shares the history of Lower Sackville and neighbouring communities. Check out the smithy, cooperage shop, and horse-drawn hearse (circa 1855). Gift shop. Open by appointment year-round. No admission fee (except for special functions), donations welcome. Gift shop. 33 Sackville Dr., Lower Sackville. 902-865-3794. fultzhouse.ca


THE MORE YOU KNOW

PHOTO: RILEY SMITH

The Discovery Centre on Lower Water Street offers hands-on science for kids.

NOVA SCOTIA ARCHIVES Records of government departments and corporate bodies (churches, businesses, organizations, etc.); papers of families; a 50,000-title library; newspapers; genealogical sources; documentary art and photographs; maps and architectural plans; sound recordings and moving images. Open Monday–Friday 8:30am–4:30pm (Wednesday until 9pm); Saturday 9am–5pm. Closed Sundays, holidays, and holiday weekends. Pre-booking required for some services on Wednesday evening and Saturday. Closed on holiday weekends. 6016 University Ave. 902-424-6060. archives.novascotia.ca NOVA SCOTIA MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY Explore Nova Scotia’s forest and ocean environments with interactive exhibits, featuring world-class fossils, specimens, and artifacts. See exquisite First Nations Mi’kmaw porcupine quillwork. Visit Sable Island and experience Science on a Sphere. Live amphibians, reptiles, bees, a tide tank, and of course Gus, the nine-decades-old tortoise. Picnic area, parking (pay). Open year-round, 9am–5pm, Wednesday 9am–8pm. Admission charged. Visit: one–two hours. Admission charged. 1747 Summer St. 902-424-6548. naturalhistory.novascotia.ca NOVA SCOTIA SPORT HALL OF FAME Nova Scotia’s rich sports heritage is displayed through artifacts, exhibits, and stories dating back to the 1850s with emphasis on “our sport heroes” Sidney Crosby exhibition. Free admission. Open yearround, Monday–Friday, 10am–5pm and before Scotiabank Centre events. Scotiabank Centre (box office level), 1800 Argyle St., Suite 446. 902-421-1266. nsshf.com

SCOTT MANOR HOUSE Historic house (circa 1770) unique in Canada. The museum has a large collection of photos, printed material, and maps reflecting Bedford’s past. Open offseason by appointment. Free admission. 15 Fort Sackville Rd., Bedford. 902-832-2336. scottmanor.ca SHEARWATER AVIATION MUSEUM Spotlights Canada’s maritime military aviation history. Hours vary seasonally, so phone ahead. Duration of visit: one hour. Open year-round. 34 Bonaventure Ave., 12 Wing Shearwater (take Rte. 322 toward Eastern Passage). 902-720-1083. shearwateraviationmuseum.ns.ca

SCIENCE CENTRES

BEDFORD INSTITUTE OF OCEANOGRAPHY Canada’s largest oceanographic research centre. The Titanic exhibit boasts a model of what the wreck now looks like on the ocean floor and images from the 1991 expedition. Learn about seafloor mapping, take a virtual reality tour of the Sable Gully, meet the grey seals of Sable Island, and discover deep-sea corals. Guided tours by appointment only. 1 Challenger Dr., Dartmouth. 902-426-2373. bio.gc.ca DISCOVERY CENTRE Hands-on science centre. Kids can learn about science, technology, engineering, arts, and math through interactive displays. Changing exhibits, themed galleries, an innovation lab, and Atlantic Canada’s only immersive dome theatre. Open daily. Admission charged. 1215 Lower Water St. 902-492-4422. thediscoverycentre.ca

OCTOBER 2019–APRIL 2020 //

where.ca EC9


ADVERTISING

PHOTO: TOURISM NOVA SCOTIA

District Business Association

The Hydrostone Market boasts unique shops aplenty.

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Points of Interest 1 World Peace Pavilion 2 Geary Lookoff 3 Halifax Citadel National Historic Site and Army Museum 4 Old Town Clock 5a Scotiabank Centre 5b Nova Centre/Halifax Convention Centre 6 Historic Properties Privateer’s Wharf 7 Province House 8 Public Gardens 9 Shubenacadie Canal 10 Alexander Keith’s Nova Scotia Brewery 11 Casino Nova Scotia 12 Cruise Ship Pavilion 13 Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21 14 Bishop’s Landing 15 Dartmouth Common 16 Halifax Common 17 NovaScotian Crystal 18 Hydrostone District 19 Halifax Central Library

Galleries & Museums 20 Art Gallery of Nova Scotia 21 Dartmouth Heritage Museum 22 Naval Museum of Halifax 23 Maritime Museum of the Atlantic 24 Museum of Natural History

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Transportation Terminals 27 Maritime Bus Terminal / Via Rail 28 Halifax Transit Ferry Terminal 28a Alderney Landing

Hospitals 29 Dartmouth General 30 IWK Health Centre (Maternity) 31 IWK Health Centre (Children) 32 Nova Scotia Hospital 33 Queen Elizabeth II Health  Sciences Centre (QEII) Camp Hill, Veterans’ Memorial, Abbie J. Lane 34 QEII Halifax Infirmary 35 QEII Rehabilitation Centre 36  QEII Victoria General

Colleges & Universities 37 Dalhousie University 38 University of King’s College 39 Mount St. Vincent University 40  NSCAD University 41 Saint Mary’s University


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ADVERTISING

THE ESSENTIAL CITY The Halifax waterfront is a popular destination for visitors and locals alike.

EC18

where.ca // MAY 2018–OCTOBER 2018


THE ESSENTIAL CITY

DESTINATION CANADA

fine yarns, tools and fibre for knitting, spinning, felting and crochet in historic downtown Halifax 1557 Barrington Street (902) 429-5667 theloophalifax.ca

Jewellery Fabulous sweaters Full highland dress clothing and accessories Irish tweed hats Clan-crested products Crystal and much, much more.

902-429-6872 www.plaidplace.com 1-800-563-1749

MAY 2018–OCTOBER 2018 //

where.ca EC19


ADVERTISING

THE ESSENTIAL CITY

Experience One of a Kind The Spring Garden area is home to more than 200 retail shops. Here you’ll find a world of goods from clothing and home décor to jewellery, gifts and more. With extensive dining options, you can enjoy traditional favourites, ethnic fare, and breakfast selections at trendy bistros, restaurants, and cafés! You’re never far from one of a kind in the Spring Garden Area.

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EC20 where.ca ////OCTOBER MAY 2018–OCTOBER EC2 where.ca 2016–APRIL 2017 2018


www.springgardenplace.ca

THE ESSENTIAL CITY

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MAY 2018–OCTOBER OCTOBER 2016 –APRIL 2018 2017 ////

where.ca where.ca EC21 EC3

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Your Your boutique boutique shopping, shopping, dining dining and and entertainment entertainment destination destination in in the the city. city.

Historic Properties is a designated National Historic Site Historic Properties is a of designated National Historic Site in the heart downtown Halifax. in the of downtown Halifax. Open 7 days a week andheart located directly on the waterfront boardwalk. Open 7 days a week and located directly on the waterfront boardwalk. Where the past is always present. Where the past is always present. 1869 Upper Water St., Halifax, NS | www.historicproperties.ca | 1869 Upper Water St., Halifax, NS | www.historicproperties.ca |


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SHOPPING

GO PLAY OUTSIDE

With its rugged coast and wild forests, Nova Scotia is a destination for outdoor adventures in any season. Gear up at Patagonia Halifax (page 51).

ANTIQUES

BELLISSIMO Selection includes hand-painted silk lighting, glass chandeliers, vintage lighting, Riedel crystal, and glassware, plus European-inspired home furnishings and accessories. Shipping available. Open Tuesday–Saturday, 10am–5pm; Sunday, 12pm– 5pm. 2743 Agricola St. 902-423-6014. bellissimoliving.com FINER THINGS ANTIQUES & CURIOS Carries high-quality furniture and decorative artwork. Appraisal and selling services available. 6438 Quinpool Rd., Halifax. 902-456-1412. finerthingsantiques.com HAPPYNEST ANTIQUES & VINTAGE Quaint little shop offering an eclectic range of unique items, with prices to suit any budget. Photos, folk art, jewelry, and memorabilia of all sorts. 2592 Elm St. 902-817-7616.

BOOKS & NEWSSTANDS

ATLANTIC NEWS Magazines and newspapers from across the region and around the world. Same-day editions of 2,000 newspapers from over 90 countries. The satellite newspapers are copyright editions sent directly from publishers. 5560 Morris St. 902-429-5468. atlanticnews.ns.ca Map 1 BOOKMARK Atlantic Canada’s largest independent bookseller: best-sellers, local works, travel books, unique gifts, and more. Open daily. 5686 Spring Garden Rd. 902-423-0419. bookmarkreads.ca MAPS & MORE Carries all manner of maps, including antiques, reproductions, city maps, travel guides, road atlases, nautical charts, and lots of other travel accessories. Open daily, 10am–6pm. 1601 Lower Water St. 902-422-7106. 50 where.ca NOV/DEC 2019

VENUS ENVY Education-oriented bookstore and sex shop. Large selection features feminist, queer, and left-leaning books and magazines in many genres. An array of adult accessories, sex toys, and movies. 1598 Barrington St. 1-877-370-9288. venusenvy.ca Map 1

WOOZLES CHILDREN’S BOOKSTORE Carries books, music, and toys, as well as lots of information on parenting. Books range from babies to senior readers and parents, plus toys from PlayMobil, puppets, costumes, and games. Open daily. 1533 Birmingham St. 902-423-7626. woozles.com

CLOTHING

BRILLIANT CLOTHING BOUTIQUE Fabulous fashion finds ofgently worn clothing at amazing deals. Open Monday– Wednesday, 10am–5:30pm, Thursday and Friday, 10am–6pm, Saturday, 10am–5pm, closed Sunday. 1539 Birmingham St. 902-446-3662. thisisbrilliant.com COLWELL’S CLOTHING Fashion for men: business, casual, smart, and professional. Popular lines include Bugatchi, Jack Victor, Johnston & Murphy Shoes, Viyella, and 34 Heritage. Open Monday–Saturday 10am–6pm. Open Sundays May–December. 902-420-1222. 1869 Upper Water St., Historic Properties. colwellsclothing.com DUGGERS/D2 Fashion for urban men and women. Chic casual and club wear with labels by Hugo Boss, Diesel, Polo Ralph Lauren, Burberry, Fred Perry, Boss Orange, Miss Sixty, Jon Varvatos, and more. 5476 Spring Garden Rd., 902-425-2525. duggersfashion.com


ELLE MIO Bra-fitting boutique, plus lingerie, swimwear, and women's clothing. Premium brands such as Prima Donna, Marie Jo, Rosa Faia, and Fantasie. Open Monday–Saturday. 1496 Lower Water St. 902-453-0604. FOREIGN AFFAIR Contemporary boutique. Brands like Rag & Bone, Canada Goose, Sarah Pacini, Helmut Lang, Hugo Boss, Tibi, Diane Von Furstenberg, Theory, Smythe, Vince, Wildfox, House of Harlow, Rebecca Minkoff, and Longchamp Paris. Denim selection includes J Brand, Hudson, Current/Elliott, Citizens of Humanity, 7 For All Mankind, and more. 5639 Spring Garden Rd. 902-423-6676. foreignaffair.ca HALIKIDS Large store, packed with lots of toys, clothing, gifts, and games for kids. Just off Spring Garden Road. Open daily. 1445 South Park St. 902-429-8720. halikids.com THE HIDE COMPANY A large selection of leather jackets, coats, boots, and shoes. Custom jackets, repairs. International shipping. 121 Ilsley Ave., Dartmouth. 902-466-1100. IN A BOX Classic and modern curated gifts, jewelry and ladies’ clothing. Featuring Canadian and international designers. A stylish little department store for items of distinction at affordable prices. 902-423-8031. 1468 Dresden Row. LISA DRADER-MURPHY BOUTIQUE Nova Scotia-made styles for women created by local designer Lisa Drader-Murphy; dresses, accessories. Historic Properties, 1869 Upper Water St. 902-429-4097. lisadradermurphy.com THE LOST COD This clothing company specializes in producing unique Nova Scotian-based designs, celebrating the province’s industry. Available online year-round. 902-431-3101. thelostcod.com NEW SCOTLAND CLOTHING Locally made and designed style. Hoodies, T-shirts, and tops for women, children, and men all branded with unique Nova Scotia logos. 102 Portland St., Dartmouth; Historic Properties, Halifax; and Halifax Stanfield International Airport. newscotlandclothing.ca NORTHERN WATTERS KNITWEAR Hand-crafted wool sweaters, crafts, and tartan products. The only North American manufacturer of wool sweaters using unique antique Swiss looms. Open daily. Historic Properties, 1869 Upper Water St. 902-405-0488. nwknitwear.com OLSEN EUROPE Olsen is a leading European casual fashion brand, known for its modern classic styling, quality, and wide assortment of colors. Olsen manufactures its own clothing, with six designers working in Hamburg, Germany. 5657 Spring Garden Rd. 902-423-0516. olseneurope.com PATAGONIA HALIFAX Outdoor and lifestyle apparel. Patagonia is the first manufacturer to use recycled plastic in performance apparel and exclusively uses organic cotton. The company donates 1% of sales to local environmental causes. 1496 Lower Water St. 902-422-2060. patagoniahalifax.ca Map 1 THE PERFECT FIT An alternative to traditional shopping, this consignment boutique offers modern and stylish clothing and accessories for women. Brands include Michael Kors, Coach, Lululemon, Club Monaco, Jones NY, Banana Republic, and Loft. Book a shopping party or bring in your designer labels for consignment. 1181 Bedford Highway, Bedford. 902-835-4436. PLAID PLACE Browse through tartans, sweaters, Scottish blankets, kilts, kilted skirts, Burns crystal, and cashmere. Highland dress sales and rental. Open Monday–Friday, 9:30am–5:30pm; Saturday 10am–5pm. Barrington Place Shops, 1903 Barrington St. 902-429-6872. plaidplace.com ROOM 152 New and preloved consignment store in a bright downtown Dartmouth space. Find top labels and great prices in accessories, bags, wallets, shoes, boots, coats, jackets, and more. 152 Portland St., Dartmouth. 902-431-7660. room152boutique.com

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RARE FINDS

At the Designer Craft Shop (below) on Marginal Road, you'll find a broad selection of creations from members of the Nova Scotia Designer Craft Council. It's the ideal place to find a unique gift for loved ones back home. SAMUEL & CO. With a downtown boutique feel in the mall, Samuel & Co. offers casual, career, and evening wear for women. Park Lane Mall, 5657 Spring Garden Rd.: 902-421-2632; Halifax Shopping Centre, 7001 Mumford Rd.: 902-453-6208; and Mic Mac Mall, Dartmouth: 902-469-1737. samuelandco.ca

CARREFOUR ATLANTIC EMPORIUM Traditional handcrafts, original works of art and literature capture the discerning shopper at this eclectic showcase of one-of-a-kind buys from Atlantic Canada, the First Nations, and the Canadian North. Open daily. Privateers Wharf, Upper Water St. 902-423-2940.

SWEET PEA BOUTIQUE Halifax’s trendiest dress shop. Large selection of one-of-a-kind dresses for all seasons. Accessories include shoes, jewelry, and hair pieces. 1542 Queen St. 902-423-0975. sweetpeaboutique.tumblr.com

DESIGNER CRAFT SHOP Works by juried members of the Nova Scotia Designer Craft Council. Quality handmade crafts of original design, including ceramics and textiles. 1061 Marginal Rd., Suite 140 (within the Centre for Craft, next to Pier 21 railcar). 902-492-2522. craft-design.ns.ca

TAKE IT OUTSIDE Offers top brands in apparel, accessories, and more for the outdoor adventurer. 196 Hector Gate, Dartmouth: 902-405-8688. takeitoutside.ca VALUE VILLAGE Thrift store offering vintage and secondhand clothing in a variety of styles. In the former Ashley furniture store in Bayer’s Lake. Free parking. 165 Chain Lake Dr. 902-450-5134. valuevillage.com WILDFLOWER CLOTHING INC. Bright, cheerful boutique. Offers the trendiest new looks with clothing and accessories from lines like Paige Denim, Fidelity Denim, Free People, Line, Mimi & Marge Jewelery, and Biko Jewelry. Also offers baby gifts. 5431 Doyle St. 902-420-0364. wildflowerclothing.com

CRAFTS

AGNS GALLERY SHOP Folk art, jewelry, sculpture, pottery, textiles, woodwork, Mi’Kmaw handcrafts, original prints, and more. Features the full Maud Lewis Collection: printed materials in reproduction prints, books, cards, etc. Art Gallery of Nova Scotia, 1723 Hollis St. 902-424-4303. ART ZONE GALLERY This new gallery supports the growth of emerging artists by providing an ongoing venue for exhibitions. Located in the Historic Colwell Building. Hosts group and solo exhibitions, workshops, and contests, partnering with established artists to facilitate the exchange of knowledge and practical skills within the art community. 1673 Barrington St. 902-420-0800. artzone-gallery.ca 52 where.ca NOV/DEC 2019

DULY NOTED STATIONARY Boutique stationary shop specializing in couture stationary, including greeting cards, custom wedding invitations, gift tags, wrapping paper, and more. 5431 Doyle St. 902-446-5605. dulynoted.ca INKWELL MODERN HANDMADE BOUTIQUE & LETTERPRESS STUDIO Handmade limited-edition paper goods, tea towels, pottery, and jewelry by local and international artists. Letterpress printing and custom design services of social stationery. 2011 Brunswick St. 902-405-8309. inkwellboutique.ca Map 1 JENNIFER’S OF NOVA SCOTIA Works by more than 143 Nova Scotia craftspeople. From pottery and pewter to woolens and woodwork, handcrafted jewelry to Nova Scotia tartan items and clothing accessories, the selection is vast. 5635 Spring Garden Rd. 902-425-3119. Map 1 LK YARNS INC. Nestled in a historic neighbourhood, this shop offers yarn and knitting supplies, including locally hand-dyed yarns and brands from around the world. Get expert knitting advice. The Hydrostone Market, 5545 Young St. 902-431-9633. lkyarns.com THE LOOP Fine yarns and tools for knitting and crochet. Broad selection of local yarns and craft kits. Open Monday–Saturday, 10am–6pm Sunday, noon–5pm. 1557 Barrington St., 902-429-5667. theloophalifax.ca


MADE IN THE MARITIMES ARTISAN BOUTIQUE Curated shop featuring contemporary art-and-craft wares produced in the Maritimes. Woodwork, toys, pottery, glass art, and more. Sunnyside Mall, 1595 Bedford Hwy. and the Hydrostone Market, 5527 Young St. madeinthemaritimes.com. TEICHERT GALLERY Contemporary Maritime fine art for rent and sale. Original art by over 180 artists with new works every two weeks. It’s an inexpensive way to support local artists. Art Gallery of Nova Scotia, 1723 Hollis St. 902-424-3087.

FOOD & DRINK

BISHOP’S CELLAR Upscale wine, spirits, and beer store specializes in varieties and vintages you won’t find elsewhere in the province. Bishop’s Landing, 1475 Lower Water St. 902-490-2675. CLEARWATER Bring the taste of the Maritimes home. Seafood experts will pack fresh lobster and other seafood for travel, plus spices, condiments, lobster crackers, and other accessories. Halifax Stanfield International Airport: 902-873-4509. 757 Bedford Hwy.: 902-443-0333. shop.clearwater.ca FISHERMAN’S MARKET INTERNATIONAL INC. Selection includes live or boiled lobster, smoked salmon, mussels, scallops, clams, shrimp, oysters, crab, and halibut. Check out the fresh catches, daily specials, and imported species. Overnight shipping to most North American centres. 607 Bedford Hwy. 902-443-3474. FREAK LUNCHBOX Offers a variety of unique candies such as caffeinated peppermints and chocolate bars from the U.S. and U.K. Sunnyside Mall, 1595 Bedford Hwy., Bedford: 902-405-4052. 1729 Barrington St.: 902-420-9151. Map 1

SWEET DREAMS

Indulge your inner child at the Freak Lunchbox candy shop on Barrington Street.

LINGERIE *

SWIMWEAR *

SHAPEWEAR *

MASTECTOMY PRODUCTS *

HOSIERY 1496 Lower Water St., Halifax 902-453-0604 .E Q NOV/DEC 2019 where.ca

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SHOPPING

MADE IN METAL

Amos Pewter (below) on Lower Water Street is your destination for handcrafted pewter creations—find jewelry, ornaments, unique gifts, and more. GARRISON BEER STORE In the waterfront brewery. Find bottled beer, cans, growlers, and party kegs. Or put together a “Mixed 6” of your favourite flavours. 1149 Marginal Rd. 902-453-5343. garrisonbrewing.com

RUM RUNNERS Rum cakes with all natural ingredients—butter, flour, sugar, and rum (and lots of it). All cakes contain rum or whiskey from Glenora Distilleries on Cape Breton Island. Bishop’s Landing, 1479 Lower Water St. 902-421-6079.

LIQUID ASSETS This boutique stocks local beer, cider, wine, and spirits. Open daily 7am–9pm. In departure lounge at Halifax Stanfield Airport. 1 Bell Blvd., Enfield. 902-873-2275. liquid-assets-of-nova-scotia.myshopify.com

SUGAH Hand-crafted confections and ice cream treats using traditional techniques and simple ingredients. Bishop’s Landing, 1475 Lower Water St. 902-423-8508. theuncommongroup.com

LIQUID GOLD Unique store specializing in extra virgin olive oils and balsamic vinegars from around the world. The Hydrostone Market, 5525 Young St. 902-406-8809. allthingsolive.ca

SUSIE’S SHORTBREADS Specializing in cupcakes, whoopie pies, cookies, candy, frozen treats, and an assortment of cakes for birthdays, weddings, and more. 1589 Dresden Row, 218 Chain Lake Dr., and 1949 Upper Water St. 902-406-7075. susiesshortbreads.com

NSLC Alcohol retailer, with a broad selection of local wine, beer, and spirits, plus big-name favourites from around the globe. Multiple stores around the city. Nova Scotia’s official cannabis retailer carrying it in the city at the Clyde Street and Joseph Howe Drive locations, plus Portland Street in Dartmouth. 1-800-567-5874. mynslc.com PROPELLER BREWING Check out the latest craft beers and sodas plus beer gear, glasses, hats, hoodies, and more. Buy a growler, and you can fill up with one of Propeller’s regular beers or a seasonal creation. 2015 Gottingen St. and 617 Windmill Rd., Dartmouth. 902-422-7767. drinkpropeller.ca ROCKHEAD WINE & BEER MARKET This North End boutique boasts a broad selection of wines from around the world, plus an expansive craft-beer selection. 2651 Windsor St. 902-435-6945. rockhead.ca ROUSSEAU CHOCOLATIER Handmade chocolates using pure cocoa butter and natural flavours; no added fats or oils. The selection includes artisan chocolate bars, French-style macarons, and more, all made on-site. Open daily in summer, 10am–6pm. 5151 South St. 902-802-6463. rousseauchocolatier.ca Map 1 54 where.ca NOV/DEC 2019

SWEET JANE’S GIFT & CONFECTIONARY From the whimsy of a lunch box filled with bubble gum to a collection of the most exquisite high-end chocolate confections, Sweet Jane’s has something for every occasion. Corner of Queen and Morris streets. 902-425-0168. sweetjanes.com Map 1

GIFTS & COLLECTIBLES

AMOS PEWTER Handcrafted pewter, featuring jewelry, home décor items, collectibles, and more. See how molten pewter is cast and be part of a hands-on experience. 1521 Lower Water St. 1-800-565-3369. amospewter.com COOL AS A MOOSE Located across from the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic. Cool As A Moose custom clothing including T-shirts, caps, and sweats. Souvenirs and giftware. 1869 Upper Water St. 902-423-5168. coolasamoose.com


DRALA BOOKS & GIFTS Unique gifts that pack and travel easily, from local talents and artisans; cards, journals, specialty teas. Open weekdays 10:30am–5:30pm; Saturday–5pm. 1567 Grafton St. 902-422-2504. drala.ca Map 1 THE IKEBANA SHOP Celebrating the art of flower arranging (supplies, accessories, lessons) and all things Japanese. Gifts, décor, art, and more. 6417 Quinpool Rd. 902-407-0487. theikebanashop.com KEPT GIFTS AND HOUSEWARES A curated collection of local, handmade design-savvy and unique items. This cozy, independent boutique boasts a friendly, knowledgable staff. Open daily. 75 King St., Dartmouth. 902-469-5378. keptshop.ca MURPHY’S COMPANY STORE Memento hunters will find handicrafts from Nova Scotian artists, gifts, T-shirts, Anne of Green Gables collectibles, nautical items, and souvenirs. Open daily, 9:30am–5p.m. Cable Wharf, 1751 Lower Water St. 902-420-1015. mtcw.ca MY MOTHER’S BLOOMERS Floral and giftware shop with fresh flowers for every season. Custom arrangements available for weddings and other events. Spring Garden Place Mall (upper level), 2086 Creighton St. 902-422-2700. mymothersbloomers.ca POSH Funky things for fussy people. Thoughtfully curated shop carries Canadian-made products at affordable prices, including works by many local artisans. Historic Properties, 1869 Upper Water St. 902-425-3134. Pop-up location at Pier 22. historicproperties.ca/its-posh

HOW SWEET IT IS

Find candies and all manner of tasty confections at Sugah in Bishop's Landing on Lower Water Street.

1569 Barrington Street, Halifax 902-420-1735

www.FireWorksGallery.com

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YEAR-ROUND HARVEST

The Halifax Seaport Farmers' Market (below) is Canada's oldest operating farmers' market. Find it in its new (and architecturally unique) home on the Halifax waterfront. Year-round, you'll find local produce, crafts, baked goods, beer, wine, cider, and more. PIER 21 GIFT SHOP Products from around the world: jewelry, Tilley hats, Thomas Kinkade collectibles, Inuit carvings, books, handcrafted pewter, glass, and ceramics. Pier 21, 1055 Marginal Rd. 902-425-7770. pier21.ca

FIREWORKS GALLERY Old World designs meet New World techniques. Custom designs by in-house goldsmiths are the specialty, plus jewelry from Canadian, American, and Italian designers. 1569 Barrington St. 1-800-720-GEMS.

SCHOLAR’S CHOICE Educational supplies and toys, featuring brand names such as Lamaze, Thomas, Playmobil, Carson Dellosa, Trend, and Frank Schaeffer. Mic Mac Mall, 21 Micmac Blvd., Dartmouth. 902-466-1611.

FRIDA JEWELLERY Destination boutique boasting distinctive fine jewelry. Unique and custom pieces by Canadian and European designers. Bishop’s Landing, 1477 Lower Water St. 902-492-2947. frida.ca

STRANGE ADVENTURES: COMIX & CURIOSITIES More than comics, graphic novels, and manga—hailed as “Canada’s Best Comic Shop.” Unique gifts. 5110 Prince St., Halifax. 101 Portland St., Dartmouth. 902-425-2140 or 1-866-6-COMICS. strangeadventures.com Map 1

JAMES BRADSHAW, GOLDSMITH Elegance in simplicity best describes Bradshaw’s approach to designing contemporary jewelry. 1551 Birmingham St. 902-425-0121.

HOME & GARDEN

31 WESTGATE Showroom and design company and Atlantic Canadian carrier of exclusive brands such as Ralph Lauren. Furniture, lighting, décor, and more. 5431 Doyle St. 902-457-3131. 31westgate.com

PANDORA @ MIC MAC MALL Pandora’s eponymous jewelry designs include earrings, charm bracelets, necklaces, rings, watches, and more. Mic Mac Mall, 21 Mic Mac Blvd., Dartmouth. 902-405-4616. pandora.net PEARL CITY Specializes in pearl jewelry, including necklaces, bracelets, custom jewelry, and more. Top craftsmanship, great prices. Bishop’s Landing. 1475 Lower Water St. 902-420-0450.

PANACHE LUXURY LINENS A boutique in Halifax’s trendy North End whose motto is the “luxury of rest.” Sells linens, spa and beauty products, decorative accents. 3132 Isleville St., Halifax. panacheluxurylinens.ca

TOUCH OF GOLD Locally owned. Extensive collection of engagement rings, jewelry in Italian gold and sterling silver, and Swiss watches (including Rolex, Tag Heuer, Montblanc, and Swiss Army). 5640 Spring Garden Rd. 902-423-5600.

THORNBLOOM—THE INSPIRED HOME Home décor store with top-quality items in bedding, furniture, lighting, kitchen items, and giftware. 1459 South Park St. 902-425-8005. thornbloom.com

MARKETS

JEWELRY

CHARM DIAMOND CENTRE Canada’s largest family-owned jewelry company. Offering fine jewelry, with an emphasis on service, quality, and value. Halifax Shopping Centre, 7001 Mumford Rd. 902-455-0168. charmdiamondcentres.com 56 where.ca NOV/DEC 2019

ALDERNEY LANDING FARMERS’ MARKET Locally produced goods available every weekend from a variety of vendors offering local produce, home-style baked goods, and more. Where the Halifax Transit ferry docks. Live music. Open Saturday 8am–1pm, Sunday 11am–3pm. alderneylanding.com/market HALIFAX SEAPORT FARMERS’ MARKET Billed as Canada’s oldest. Open Wednesday and Friday–Sunday. Crafts, cuisine, and produce from across the province. 1209 Marginal Rd. halifaxfarmersmarket.com


PHOTO: TOURISM NOVA SCOTIA

HALIFAX BREWERY FARMERS’ MARKET Stroll through courtyards and hallways of a 200-year-old granite and ironstone heritage building. Meet local small-scale farmers and artisans selling a range of goods and tasty treats in this historic market setting. Saturdays 7am–1pm. 1496 Lower Water St. 902-329-3276. halifaxbrewerymarket.com HISTORIC PROPERTIES A network of interconnected heritage buildings—shopping, dining, and nightlife. Open daily. Upper Water St., north from Duke St. 902-422-3077. historicproperties.ca

MUSIC

HALIFAX FOLKLORE CENTRE A selection of vintage guitars and violins. New and used musical instruments— mandolins, banjos, amps, basses, ukuleles, and bodhrans. 1528 Brunswick St. 902-422-6350. halifaxfolklorecentre.com TAZ RECORDS A mainstay for music lovers for 25 years, Taz boasts over 35,000 LPs, 10,000 CDs, and 30,000 seven-inch singles, spanning the whole musical spectrum. 1521 Grafton St., 1270 Bedford Hwy. 902-422-5976. tazrecords.com Map 1

OUTFITTERS

MEC With a $5 lifetime membership, this co-op chain offers a huge variety of durable and lightweight clothing and equipment for outdoor adventures. Popular brands include Prana, Black Diamond, and Patagonia. 1550 Granville St. 902-421-2667. mec.ca

SHOES

JOHN DAVID SHOES One of the largest selections of women’s fashion footwear east of Montreal. The selection includes many exclusive brand names, such as France Mode fashion designer boots made in France. Open Monday–Wednesday and Saturday, 9:30am–6pm; Thursday and Friday, 9:30am to 9pm; Sunday, noon–5pm 5657 Spring Garden Rd. 902-422-8466.

SHOPPING CENTRES

BEDFORD PLACE Specialty shops and services. 1658 Bedford Hwy., Bedford. 902-865-8381. bedfordplacemall.com DARTMOUTH CROSSING Over 90 stores—Banana Republic Factory Store, David’s Bridal, Marshalls, Golf Town, Tommy Hilfiger, Toys R Us/Babies R Us, Globo Shoes, and more. 34 Logiealmond Close, Dartmouth. dartmouthcrossing.com

BASS PRO SHOPS Just opened last autumn, this outdoor-living superstore offers a huge range of hunting, fishing, camping, and recreation products. Offers Outdoor Skills Workshops. 50 Cabela Rd., Dartmouth. 902-417-1800. basspro.com

UNIQUE GIFT IDEAS At Jennifer’s of Nova Scotia (page 52) on Spring Garden, you’ll find a wide array of local craft in a variety of media and unique gift ideas aplenty. NOV/DEC 2019 where.ca

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THE RIGHT NOTE

The Halifax Folklore Centre (page 57) on Brunswick Street is a haven for musicians and music lovers, offering a broad selection of vintage and new instruments, plus sheet music, accessories, and expert advice galore. HALIFAX SHOPPING CENTRE Combined with the adjacent Halifax Shopping Centre Annex, home to more than 170 shops and services, including Apple, Victoria’s Secret, Hollister, Pier 1, and Levi’s. 7001 Mumford Rd. halifaxshoppingcentre.com MIC MAC MALL 160 stores, including Forever 21, Eddie Bauer, American Eagle, Bath & Bodyworks, H&M, Cinnabon, and Hudson’s Bay. 21 Micmac Blvd., Dartmouth. 902-466-2056. micmacmall.com PARK LANE Specialty shops and services, cinema, and more. 5657 Spring Garden Rd. 902-420-0660. shopparklane.ca SCOTIA SQUARE MALL An anchor of the downtown shopping scene. Pedways connect it to many major hotels and entertainment venues such as the Scotiabank Centre. Corner of Duke and Barrington streets. 902-429-3660. SPRING GARDEN PLACE Small but chic, Spring Garden Place emphasizes style, home to unique shops and products that you won’t find elsewhere. 5640 Spring Garden Rd. 902-420-0675. SUNNYSIDE MALL Home to a wide variety of stores and services, including the landmark shop for food lovers, Pete’s Frootique. 1595 Bedford Hwy., Bedford. 902-835-5099.

SPAS, SALONS & MASSAGES

BODY MENDS MASSAGE THERAPY Registered massage therapy services include deep tissue, hot stone, Swedish, and pregnancy massages. Second floor, 1725 Barrington St. 902-422-9809. bodymends.com INTERLUDE SPA Features a wide range of body treatments, aesthetic services, hair care, and specialized services. Halifax Marriot Harbourfront Hotel, 1919 Upper Water St. 58 Ochterloney St., Dartmouth: 902-469-2700.

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DINING

LOAFING AROUND

Nestled in the heart of the stylish Hydrostone Market, Julien's Patisseries Bakery & Café (below) is a neighbourhood favourite, best known for its variety of fresh-baked breads.

BAKERIES

BAGEL MONTREAL STYLE The city’s first and only maker of Montreal-style bagels, hand-rolled and baked in a wood-burning oven. Wide variety of bagel flavours, plus Jamaican patties, samosas, and pretzels. Open weekdays 6am–8pm; weekends 7am–6pm. 135 Wyse Rd., Dartmouth. 902-468-1212. bagelmontrealstyle.com JULIEN’S PATISSERIE BAKERY & CAFÉ One of Halifax’s most beloved cafés/bakeries, serving an array of fresh baked items, including almond croissants and a dozen bread varieties. The courtyard patio is understated and rustic, with simple pine tables. 5517 Young St. 902-455-9717.

BARS & GRILLS

BAR KISMET New seafood- and cocktail-focused bar, emphasizing local ingredients on an ever-evolving menu. Mixologist Will Irvine recently won the regional finals of the North American Bacardi Legacy cocktail competition. 2733 Agricola St. 902-487-4319. barkismet.com BÂTON ROUGE RESTAURANT & BAR Ribs, steaks, chicken, seafood, and pasta, served with a Cajun twist. Seasonal patio in the heart of the Historic Properties. 1877 Hollis St. 902-407-0007. batonrougerestaurants.com BEARLY’S HOUSE OF BLUES Live blues every Thursday– Sunday, including a Sunday matinee and evening blues jam. Offers burgers, ribs, breakfast, and Philippine cuisine. Daily specials. 1269 Barrington St. 902-423-2526. bearlys.ca BUBBA RAY’S SPORTS BAR Lots of big screens to watch live sports. Varied pub-grub menu. Chicken wings are the house specialty: six varieties with 60+ different sauces. 7071 Bayer’s Rd. 902-406-1234. bubbarays.com

EAST OF GRAFTON TAVERN Comfortable and stylish tavern in the heart of the entertainment district. Elevated comfort food at affordable prices; favourites include nachos, fish tacos, oysters, and other classics prepared in-house. Open daily for lunch and dinner, kitchen open until midnight on weekends. 1580 Argyle St. 902-428-5680. eastofgrafton.com HFX SPORTS BAR & GRILL With over 90 TV screens, including a two-storey behemoth, this is the place to watch the big game. The menu boasts an equally large array of snacks and hearty meals. 1721 Brunswick St. 902-404-1404. hfxsports.com JAMIESON’S IRISH-HOUSE & GRILL Recently renovated, this cozy pub boasts traditional food, a variety of craft beer, and a welcoming atmosphere. Daily Irish food specials feature dishes such as corned beef and cabbage, Guinness beef stew, and steak and kidney pie. 5 Cumberland Dr., Dartmouth. 902-433-0500. jamiesons.ca LAKESIDE BAR & GRILL Casual bar and restaurant with patio overlooking scenic Chocolate Lake. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Best Western Chocolate Lake Hotel, 250 St. Margaret’s Bay Rd. 902-477-5611. chocolatelakehotel.com THE LOCAL Locally sourced, internationally inspired menu; vegan options, stone-oven pizza. Craft beer and cider. Patio, billiards, ping-pong. Live music four nights per week. 2037 Gottingen St. 902-406-4255. facebook.com/thelocalhfx THE LOWER DECK BAR & GRILL The beloved waterfront pub exports its signature hospitality to Clayton Park. Seafood, burgers, wings, pasta, meatloaf, schnitzel, and more. Daily specials. Live music on weekends. 278 Lacewood Dr. 902-443-7024. lowerdeck.ca MONTES SHOWBAR GRILL Casual bar serving burgers, pasta, sandwiches, weekend brunch. Live music on weekends. 245 Waverly Rd., Dartmouth. 902-435-1770. montes.ca NOV/DEC 2019 where.ca

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PHOTO: TOURISM NOVA SCOTIA/SCOTT MUNN

DINING

SHOWTIME!

The Carleton (page 64) on Argyle Street is a mandatory destination for music fans. Considered one of the city's best venues, it hosts local and touring talents throughout the year. THE PINT Friendly downtown bar with craft beer aplenty, and a menu featuring favourites like poutine, sliders, nachos, ribs, and tacos. Live sports. Daily specials, weekend brunch. 1575 Argyle St. 902-405-PINT. halifax.thepint.ca THE REDWOOD GRILL Creative meals with fresh ingredients. Modern casual setting. Daily breakfast and weekend lunch. Open daily. 30 Fairfax Dr. 902-446-4243. redwoodgrill.ca STAYNER’S WHARF PUB & GRILL High-quality pub food, including fresh seafood. Live jazz, featuring local and visiting acts. Open 11am to midnight. On the waterfront, next to the ferry terminal. 5075 George St. 902-492-1800. THE STUBBORN GOAT GASTROPUB Upscale comfort food featuring fresh produce and meat from local suppliers. Extensive list of craft beers and tasty cocktails and a weekend brunch menu. 1579 Grafton St. 902-405-4554. stubborngoat.ca TIMBER LOUNGE Lumberjack-themed bar serving local beer and hosting axe-throwing events. Watch the axe-citement from the bar through a Plexiglas window. Open Monday through Thursday, 4pm–1am; Friday and Saturday, 1pm–1am. 2710 Agricola St. 902-453-8627. timberlounge.ca.

BARBECUE

BONEHEADS BBQ Southern-style smokehouse serving sausage, wings, pulled pork, brisket, and other barbecue mainstays. Open Sunday–Thursday, 11am–9pm; Friday and Saturday to 10pm. 1014 Barrington St. 902-407-4100. lickthebone.com UPSTREET BBQ BREWHOUSE A partnership between P.E.I. craft brewers Upstreet and local restaurateur Bill Pratt. Unique locallymade beers and a selection of barbecue classics, including Kansas-style ribs, brisket, and pulled pork. 612 Windmill Rd., Dartmouth. 902-407-4344. upstreetbbqbrewhouse.com 60 where.ca NOV/DEC 2019

BEER BARS

2 CROWS BREWING COMPANY Owned by a husband-wife team and their brewer friend. Modern brewing with a focus on high quality. Ever-change selection of seasonal brews. 1932 Brunswick St. 902-422-0222. 2crowsbrewing.com THE AUCTION HOUSE Historic downtown building. Beer-centric menu showcasing local brews, plus cocktails and wine aplenty. Live entertainment. Open daily. 1726 Argyle St. 902-431-1726. auctionhousehalifax.com BATTERY PARK This hip beer bar’s menu includes local craft brew aplenty and tasting boards of charcuterie, fruits de mer, formaggio, and antipasti. Open Sunday–Wednesday, Thursday, 2pm–midnight; Friday and Saturday 2pm–1am. 62 Ochterloney St., Dartmouth. batterypark.ca BRIGHTWOOD BREWERY Laptop-friendly taproom offering snacks, pints, and growler fills. Guest taps featuring other local brewers. Open daily. 35 Portland St., Dartmouth. 902-466-6006. brightwoodbrewery.com GAHAN HOUSE The popular P.E.I. brewpub recently moved to a new location at the Nova Centre, serving locally made smallbatch beers. 5239 Sackville St. 902-444-3060. halifax.gahan.ca GOOD ROBOT BREWING COMPANY An ever-changing selection of beer in a variety of styles, including many glutenreduced options. Tasting room, retail store. Growler fills and cans. On-site restaurant. 2736 Robie St. 902-446-1692. goodrobotbrewing.ca HOPYARD Halifax sibling to the popular P.E.I. spot known for local craft beer, food, and vinyl records. The locally sourced menu of sharing plates changes weekly. 2103 Gottingen St. 902-444-2467. hopyard.ca/halifax


NEW SCOTLAND BREWING Taproom and craft brewery focusing on traditional beer styles and mead. Tasters, pints, flights, growlers. Live local music. Stone Pizza kitchen on site. Open daily. 91 Alderney Dr., Dartmouth. 902-406-2337. newscotlandbrewing.ca ROCKBOTTOM BREW PUB Diverse menu. Six different craft beers brewed on site. Also offers an extensive selection of wine and cocktails. 5686 Spring Garden Rd. 902-423-2938. rockbottombrewpub.ca STILLWELL Showcasing craft beers from Nova Scotia’s flourishing craft brewing community and beyond, Stillwell pairs a dynamic beer list with Chef Graeme Ruppel’s artful small-plate snacks. A must-visit destination for beer lovers. 1672 Barrington St. 902-421-1672. barstillwell.com

BISTROS

BISTRO LE COQ French country cuisine. Duck confit salad, croque monsieur, escargot, a daily crêpe special, and steak frites. Weekend brunch. Open daily for lunch and dinner; kitchen. Open until 11pm on weekends. 1584 Argyle St. 902-407-4564. bistrocoq.ca CHIVES CANADIAN BISTRO Chefs and owners Craig Flinn and Darren Lewis draw heavily on their East Coast roots, classical training, and international experience, using fresh, local, and organic ingredients. Open daily, 5pm–9:30pm. 1537 Barrington St. 902-420-9626. ELLE'S BISTRO Canadian comfort food: all-day breakfast, burgers, sandwiches, plus fresh baked sweets. Open daily. 1678 Barrington St. 902-446-3775. ellesbistro.com

MAPPATURA BISTRO Honest food and lively moments. Aperitivo hour, local and European wines, homemade pastas, plus locally sourced seafood, meats, and produce. Italian inspired. Dine privately or at the communal table. Open Tuesday– Saturday for lunch, dinner, and brunch. Close to the Public Gardens. Reservations recommended. 5883 Spring Garden Rd. 902-407-5502. mappaturabistro.ca THE NARROWS BISTRO Chef Erwin Palo offers contemporary international cuisine in a casual bistro atmosphere. Open Monday–Friday 6:30am–10:30am and 5pm–10pm, weekends 7am–11am and 5pm–10pm. DoubleTree by Hilton Halifax Dartmouth, 101 Wyse Rd., Dartmouth. 902-463-1100. halifaxdartmouth.doubletreebyhilton.com

BURGERS

ACE BURGER COMPANY Specializing in high-quality burgers, including The Deluxe, rib burger, lamb burger, po’boys, and fries. Serving at Battery Park, 62 Ochterloney St. 902-446-2337 BOOMBURGERS Classic made-to-order burgers and fries, using beef and potatoes fresh from P.E.I. Open daily. 64 Dellridge Ln., Bedford. 902-491-2666. boomburger.ca CHEESE CURDS GOURMET BURGERS + POUTINERIE Gourmet beef, pork, salmon, lamb, veggie, and chicken burgers, plus poutine, onion rings, and hot dogs. Open Sunday to Thursday, 11am–9pm; Friday and Saturday, 11.a.m.–10pm; 380 Pleasant St., Dartmouth: 902-444-3446. 600 Windmill Rd., Dartmouth: 902-446-4400. 277 Lacewood Dr., Clayton Park: 902-450-0980. 507 Larry Uteck Blvd., Bedford: 902-835-7404. cheesecurdsburgers.com

LE BISTRO BY LIZ Halifax’s original French bistro, serving favourites like Crêpe Marocaine and the house specialty, lemon pie. 1333 South Park St. 902-423-8428. lebistrohalifax.com

FARM FRESH

With its constantly evolving menu, showcasing fresh regional ingredients, you could eat at Chives Canadian Bistro (above) every week and never have the same thing twice. NOV/DEC 2019 where.ca

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DINING CAFÉ GOOD LUCK All-day brunch menu featuring eggs benny, towering breakfast sandwices, and fresh-baked goods. Mimosas and local beer. Open daily. 145 Portland St., Dartmouth. manualfoodanddrinkco.com/goodluck THE CANTEEN Gourmet sandwiches, classic French, Italian and traditional Nova Scotian cuisine, local wine and beer. Open Tuesday through Friday for lunch and supper, for brunch on Saturday. Closed Sunday and Monday. 22 Portland St., Dartmouth. 902-425-9272. thecanteen.ca

PHOTO: COMMUNICATIONS NOVA SCOTIA

COASTAL CAFÉ Breakfast creations like Belgian waffles and Huevos Rancheros. The lunch menu includes paninis, burgers, and daily soups and salads. Open Tuesday–Sunday for breakfast and lunch. 2731 Robie St. 902-405-4022. thecoastal.ca

NEIGHBOURHOOD FAVOURITE

With its ever-changing array of seasonal fare and top-notch service, Agricola Street Brasserie (page 63) is a local favourite.

KRAVE BURGER Fast-casual burger joint boasting creative burgers and hot dogs, three varieties of macaroni and cheese, milkshakes, and more. Wash it down with a Krave Lager from local craft brewer Propeller. 5680 Spring Garden Rd. 902-407-5728. kraveburger.com

CAFÉS

ANNIE’S PLACE CAFÉ Relaxed atmosphere. All-day breakfast, plus many lunch items. Baked goods made fresh in-house. Catering available. Open daily 7am–2pm, Saturday 8am–2pm. 1592B Queen St. 902-420-0098. APARTMENT 3 ESPRESSO BAR Bright and airy neighbourhood spot serving all manner of espresso-based drinks, plus baked treatments from local favourite Tart and Soul. Open daily. 833 Sackville Dr., Lower Sackville. apt3coffee.com BIRD’S NEST CAFÉ Bird’s Nest Café is a recent expansion from local favourite Ciboulette Café, a tiny spot noted for its tasty sandwiches and soup. Now offers an expanded menu for breakfast and lunch, featuring fresh ingredients. Cozy atmosphere. 1547 Barrington St. 902-423-5282. birdsnesthalifax.com Map 1 THE BOARD ROOM GAME CAFÉ Some 400 games to choose from, $5 cover to play as many as you like. “Game Bosses” on site to teach and recommend games. Craft beer on tap, espresso bar, and casual dining. Ages 19+ after 6pm. 1256 Barrington St. 902-423-7545. boardroomgames.ca Map 1

62 where.ca NOV/DEC 2019

GLITTER BEAN CAFÉ Queer-friendly café offering organic fairtrade coffee, specialty drinks, snacks, and baked goods. Open weekdays 7am–6pm, weekends 10am–5pm. 5896 Spring Garden Rd. 902-407-5715. glitterbeancafe.com HUMANI-T CAFÉ Newly renovated: cozy fireplace, stone fountain and funky chairs. Near the Hydrostone Market. Live music on Friday nights with a free open-mic show. Free Wi-Fi. Baklava, cakes, cupcakes, muffins, cookies, cinnamon rolls baked fresh on-site. Open daily. 5755 Young St. 902-454-9999. humanitcafe.com JAVA BLEND Coffeehouse and craft coffee roaster in Halifax’s North End, specializing in globally sourced sustainable beans, offering coffee, drinks and other beverages and baked goods. 6027 North St. 902-423-6944. javablendcoffee.com THE MIDDLE SPOON If you’re the kind of person who skips straight to dessert, this is the spot for you—specializing in decadent desserts and cocktails. Open Monday–Saturday from 4pm. 1559 Barrington St.: 902-407-4002. 1595 Bedford Hwy (Sunnyside Mall), Bedford: 902-446-4082 THE NOOK Friendly café serving local java by day, hip cocktails and beer by night. The menu highlights all-day brunch, sandwiches, and baked goods. After-dark nibbles include nachos, dips, and vegetarian options. 2118 Gottingen St. 902-444-9889. thenookhfx.ca PORTLAND STREET CRÊPERIE Relaxed neighbourhood spot offering all manner of sweet and savoury crêpes. ranging from donair to Oreo cheesecake. Reclaimed-wood décor. Open daily. 55 Portland St., Dartmouth. 902-466-7686. portlandstreetcreperie.ca PAVIA ESPRESSO BAR & CAFÉ Two locations in the Halifax Central Library (on the first and fifth floors), offering locally roasted coffee, Italian espresso, gourmet paninis, and baked goods. Halifax Central Library, 5440 Spring Garden Rd. 902-407-4008. paviagallery.com STEVE-O-RENO’S CAPPUCCINO Locally roasted, ethically sourced coffee. Baked goods from scratch daily. Quick and fresh breakfasts and lunches. 1536 Brunswick St. 902-429-3034. steveorenos.com SWEET HEREAFTER Rich and luscious cheesecake. Dozens of flavours, with gluten-free and dairy-free options available. Catering service available. Open Monday–Wednesday noon–10pm and Thursday–Saturday noon–11pm. 6148 Quinpool Rd. 902-404-8001. sweethereafter.ca TWO IF BY SEA Gourmet coffee, loose tea, and hot drinks galore, plus fresh, quality pastries and desserts. The light, flaky, buttery croissants draw locals from every part of the city. Open daily. 66 Ochterloney St., Dartmouth: 902-469-0721. twoifbyseacafe.ca TRIDENT BOOKSELLERS AND CAFÉ A coffeehouse, tea room, coffee roaster, and used bookstore in Halifax’s South End. Browse the shelves for used books or sit and enjoy specialty coffee drinks and pastries and loose tea, among the aroma of freshly roasted coffee beans. 1256 Hollis St. 902-423-7100. tridenthalifax.com


UNCOMMON GROUNDS Gourmet coffee and tea; muffins, scones, cheesecakes, and other desserts baked on-site. Sandwiches and soups. 1030 South Park St.: 902-431-3124. 1237 Barrington St.: 902-404-7288. WAFFLE LOVE Modern space serving up sweet and savoury waffles showcasing locally-sourced ingrediates, plus a wide array of pierogis. Open Wednesday–Sunday. 2082 Gottingen St. 902-445-5683. facebook.com/waffleloveislove WEIRD HARBOUR ESPRESSO BAR Espresso-based coffees and locally made baked goods. Open Monday–Friday 7am–6pm, weekends 8am–6pm. 1656 Barrington St. weirdharbour.com

CHINESE

CHEELIN Szechuan and Beijing cuisine. Buffet lunch on Tuesday and Friday. Lunch Monday–Saturday, 11:30am–2:30pm; dinner Monday–Sunday, 5pm–10pm Brewery Market, 1496 Lower Water St. (Also at Seaport Market.) 902-422-2252. cheelinrestaurant.ca CHI BISTRO Traditional breakfasts, crêpes, and light lunches meet reimagined Southern Chinese dishes and tapas-style small plates at this cozy spot with a summer patio. 5687 Charles St. 902-406-3133. chibistro.ca FAN’S CHINESE RESTAURANT A diverse Chinese menu. House specialties include Peking duck, Moo Shu pork, and Seafood in Bird Nest. Open daily. 451 Windmill Rd., Dartmouth. 902-469-9165. fansrestaurant.com GREAT WALL Cantonese and Szechuan food in pleasant surroundings. Daily specials. Dim Sum on Sunday, from 11:30am–3pm. Free delivery downtown. Open Monday–Thursday and Sunday, 11:30am–10pm; Friday and Saturday to 11pm. 1649 Bedford Row. 902-422-6153.

9 + NINE CHINESE CUISINE Classically trained in Hong Kong, Chef Peter brings 45 years of culinary experience to this compact suburban dining room offering Chinese delicacies prepared in the traditional manner. Eat in or take out. Open Wednesday– Monday. 480 Parkland Dr. 902-431-7575. 9plus9.ca SHENG’S CHINESE RESTAURANT Szechuan, Cantonese, Chinese, and Thai cuisine. Make-your-own daily specials, plus lunch specials from $5.50, Monday–Friday. 6-362 Lacewood Dr. 902-446-3838. shengsrestaurant.ca YANJING YANJING CHINESE RESTAURANT Traditional Chinese dishes and Chinese-Canadian favourites. Group rates. Free delivery on orders over $20. Open Wednesday–Monday. Reservations recommended for groups of 6+. 6430 Quinpool Rd. 902-423-2587. yanjingchineserestaurant.ca

CONTEMPORARY CANADIAN

AGRICOLA STREET BRASSERIE Stylish stop featuring locally sourced, seasonal fare and housemade charcuterie alongside craft beer and a carefully curated wine list. Brunch Friday–Sunday. Suitable for intimate meals and large groups. Impressive roofttop patio. Monday–Saturday 4pm–12:30am. 2540 Agricola St. 902-446-7664. agricolastreet.ca THE ARMVIEW RESTAURANT & LOUNGE Long a beloved community diner, the Armview renovated a few years ago, now boasting stylish décor and a contemporary menu. The selection includes gourmet burgers, sandwiches, pasta, seafood, weekend brunch, and more. The Dagwood Sandwich is a local favourite. Open daily. 7156 Chebucto Rd. 902-455-4395. thearmview.com

the ultimate convenience

Fresh seafood packed for travel or delivered direct to your door

visit us online or at one of our locations: 757 Bedford Highway 902-443-0333 | 9am-7pm daily

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By phone: 1-877-567-1117 shop.clearwater.ca

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PHOTO: TREVOR J. ADAMS

DINING

CALL OF THE WILD

Indulge your carnivore instincts at Primal Kitchen (below) on Brenton Street. Sustainable local meats are the house specialty, butchered, smoked, and cured in-house. THE BICYCLE THIEF Offers “North American food with an Italian soul.” Cocktail/wine bar, harbour view. Bishop’s Landing, 1475 Lower Water St. 902-425-7993. bicyclethief.ca BROOKLYN WAREHOUSE With an ever-changing menu, this trendy neighbourhood spot showcases local and sustainable cuisine. Famous for its burgers. 2795 Windsor St. 902-446-8181. brooklynwarehouse.ca THE CARLETON Restaurant, bar, and entertainment venue offers upscale casual dining (with an array of wines and spirits) and showcases Nova Scotian and international talent. 1685 Argyle St. 902-422-6335. thecarleton.ca HARBOUR CITY BAR AND GRILL Modern hotel eatery preparing Canadian cuisine with locally sourced ingredients, plus a robust list of local craft beers, wines, and spirits. 1990 Barrington St. 902-492-6443. marriott.com PRIMAL KITCHEN Butchery inspired restaurant with a focus on sustainable local meats and craft beer. Local meats smoked, cured, and butchered in-house. One of Where Canada’s Best New Restaurants in Canada for 2015. Open Monday– Saturday, 11:30am–10pm. 1463 Brenton St. 902-429-3499. primalhfx.ca SEASONS BY ATLANTICA Fresh, local cuisine. Warm urban décor, views of Halifax Common and attentive service. Open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Atlantica Hotel Halifax, 1980 Robie St. 902-490-3331. seasonsbistro.com STORIES Inventive regional cuisine in intimate dining rooms. Chef Scott Vail has crafted a diverse menu selecting East Coast seafood, premium beef, and local game and lamb. The Halliburton, 5184 Morris St. 902-420-0658. THE WOODEN MONKEY Dynamic menu showcasing local organic produce. Gourmet pizza, sandwiches and pasta, fresh seafood, creative desserts. Open daily. 1707 Grafton St.: 902-444-2844. Alderney Landing, Dartmouth: 902-466-3100. thewoodenmonkey.ca

DELIS

FOX HILL MARKET & DELI El Gallo Mexican cuisine, sandwiches, salads, all-day breakfast, and more. Open daily. 2760 Robie St. 902-407-1301. 64 where.ca NOV/DEC 2019

DINERS

ARDMORE TEA ROOM Longstanding neighbourhood favourite. Hearty budget-friendly offerings like Thanksgiving poutine, meatloaf, burgers, lasagna, sandwiches, all-day breakfast, fish and chips. Cash only. Open daily, 5am–8pm. 6499 Quinpool Rd. 902-423-7523 BLUENOSE II RESTAURANT This downtown dining-style restaurant has been a local favourite since 1964. Seafood, Greek specialties, burgers, all-day breakfast. Daily specials. Open Monday–Thursday 7:30am–8:30 p.m, Friday 7:30am to 9pm, weekends 8am–9pm. 1824 Hollis St. 902-425-5092. bluenoseii.ca Map 1 DARRELL’S RESTAURANT A straightforward burger joint dishing up unique toppings for beef and veggie burgers, plus comfort food aplenty. 5576 Fenwick St. 902-492-2349. darrellsrestaurants.com THE ESQUIRE RESTAURANT Local favourite, known for hearty seafood chowder, old-school lobster sandwiches, and decadent pies. Open daily. 772 Bedford Hwy., Bedford. 902-835-9033. esquirerestaurant.ca ROBIE STREET STATION Serving all-day breakfast and brunch plus global comfort food specialties in a colourful and trendy diner atmosphere. 2394 Robie St. 902-423-2524 TRUE NORTH DINER Toss a few quarters in the jukebox and go back in time at this 1950s inspired eatery known for burgers, fries, and shakes. Bedford Place Mall, 1658 Bedford Hwy., Bedford. 902-832-1950. truenorthdiner.com

FAMILY DINING

CORA Specializes in breakfast. Creative dishes with lots of fresh fruit. Crêpes, french toast, waffles, and eggs. Open Monday– Saturday, 6am–3pm; Sunday, 7am–3pm. Lunch from 11am. 1535 Dresden Row: 902-490-2672. 287 Lacewood Dr. 902-457-2672. 1475 Bedford Hwy., Unit 17, Bedford: 902-832-5252. 644 Portland St., Dartmouth: 902-433-0079. 16 Garland Ave., Dartmouth: 902-481-9685. chezcora.com


KEMPTSTER’S COOKHOUSE Expansive menu features 100+ homestyle favourites: barbecue chicken and ribs, steak, burgers, sandwiches, all-day breakfast, pasta, and much more. Two-forone specials Sunday–Wednesday. Open daily. 3644 Kempt Rd. 902-453-0236. kempsterscookhouse.ca

GIO Global New Age cuisine: ingenious signature dishes and an extensive selection of wine and cocktails. The décor is modern and chic, offering contemporary comfort. Prince George Hotel, 1725 Market St. 902-425-1987. giohalifax.com

TOM’S FAMILY RESTAURANT Sandwiches, wraps, burgers, seafood, and family favourites like lasagna and turkey dinner. Open daily. 585 Sackville Dr., Lower Sackville. 902-252-8667 tomsfamilyrestaurant.ca

HIGHWAYMAN RESTAURANT & BAR Simple yet stylish 40-seat dining room preparing Spanish-inspired entrées and small plates alongside hip cocktails and a curated wine and beer list. 1673 Barrington St. 902-407-5260. highwaymanhfx.com

GLOBAL CUISINE

LITTLE OAK Intimate waterfront wine bar, offering an everchanging globally influenced menu showcasing seasonal ingredients. Expansive wine list and an ample selection of craft beer and cider. Happy Hour 4pm–6pm daily. Open Monday– Saturday. Bishop’s Landing, 1475 Lower Water St. littleoakbar.ca

AFRITE An ever-changing menu of international flavours from Master Chef Canada contestant Andrew Al-Khouri. Small plates, sharing dishes, weekend brunch, Middle Eastern Mondays prix fixe menu. 1360 Lower Water St. afrite.ca BLACK SHEEP RESTAURANT Owned by its two chefs, this stylish spot emphasizes unpretentious dining with a focus on quality scratch-made cuisine. Small plates for sharing. Brunch until 4pm daily. Creative cocktails; local beer and cider; international wine list. Open daily. 1569 Dresden Row. 902-406-6856. blacksheephalifax.com CHKN CHOP ROTISSERIE Portuguese-style chicken joint, offering slow-cooked chicken and sides, plus sandwiches and poutine. Currently renovating after a fire; re-opening soon. 6041 North St. 902-406-0690. chknchop.com ELIOT & VINE European-influenced menu features favourites like pork belly with cheddar polenta, basil, and pistachio crusted lamb, and beef carpaccio. Ever-evolving wine list. Elegant and chic. Open Tuesday–Sunday from 5pm. 2305 Clifton St. 902-332-1557. eliotandvine.com

LOT SIX BAR AND RESTAURANT Inspired by the great bars of the world, Lot Six features a globally inspired small-plates menu, unique cocktails, whiskies, craft beers, and select wines. 1685 Argyle St. 902-428-7428. lotsix.ca STUDIO EAST FOOD AND DRINK Tapas-inspired Asian fare with an East Coast flair, known for spicy meat sticks served with housemade dipping sauces. 6021 Cunard St. 902-449-9800. studioeastfood.ca

GREEK

ATHENS RESTAURANT Greek mainstays with an emphasis on classic dishes such as kleftiko lamb, moussaka, saganaki, and souvlaki. 6273 Quinpool Rd. 902-422-1595.

Our favourite seafood? All of them. waterfrontwarehouse.ca

Irresistible Halifax Waterfront NOV/DEC 2019 where.ca

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DINING

GOOD THINGS, SMALL PACKAGES

In Bishop's Landing on Lower Water Street, Little Oak (page 65), offers a dynamic globally influenced menu spotlighting seasonal ingredients and a carefully curated (and surprisingly expansive) wine list.

ELA GREEK TAVERNA Recommended by Anne Hardy’s Where to Eat in Canada for five consecutive years. Over 90 menu items, including steak and pasta. 215 Chain Lake Dr., Bayers Lake: 902-876-8899. 150 Hector Gate, Dartmouth Crossing: 902-481-7999. elagreektaverna.com

INDIAN

CURRY VILLAGE Indian cuisine in a comfortable setting. One of the “Top 100 Recommended Places to Eat in Canada.” Open for lunch Tuesday–Saturday; dinner daily. 1569 Dresden Row. 902-429-5010. curryvillage.ca DHABA CASUAL FINE DINING & EXPRESS Fresh authentic Indian cuisine, including vegetable biyani, butter chicken, and goat curry. Weekend lunch buffets and daily lunch specials. 8 Oland Cres. 902-444-4411. dhaba-express.ca MIRCHI TANDOOR Authentic and time-tested Indian recipes, made with fresh ingredients. Highlights include slow-cooked Tandoor chicken, vegetable korma, and prawn curry. Open Tuesday–Sunday. 5232 Blowers St. 902-429-4647. mirchitandoor.ca RASA FLAVOURS OF INDIA A taste of the subcontinent in a refined atmosphere. Open daily. Free parking at City Centre Atlantic with $50 purchase. 1542 Birmingham St. 902-423-5995. rasarestaurant.ca

ITALIAN

CAFÉ CHIANTI Large selection of fresh seafood, pasta, veal, steak, lamb, and duck dishes. Eastern European specialties include homemade Hungarian paprika sausage. Open Mondayto Friday for lunch; daily for dinner. 1241 Barrington St. 902-423-7471. cafechianti.com DA MAURIZIO FINE DINING Known for impeccable service, extensive wine lists, and a celebrated northern Italian menu featuring calamari, gnocchi, lamb, and seafood. Brewery Market, 1496 Lower Water St. 902-423-0859. 66 where.ca NOV/DEC 2019

IL MERCATO Popular trattoria offering a casual European menu. Northern Italian dishes are the speciality—pizza, pasta, and sandwiches. The desserts alone are worth the visit. Sunnyside Mall, 1595 Bedford Hwy., Bedford. 902-832-4531. IL TRULLO Sleek stylish dining room offers sweeping views of Halifax Harbour. Menu features a variety of authentic Southern Italian cuisine. The restaurant is named after a cone-shaped stone agriculture building in the owner’s native Puglia region in Italy. 902-461-2030, 102-67 King’s Wharf Place, Dartmouth. iltrullo.ca LA FRASCA CIBI & VINI Inspired by the rustic dishes of Friuli in Northern Italy. Authentic home-style dishes made to order by hand, with a passion for freshness and quality. Open Monday– Saturday. 5650 Spring Garden Rd. 902-422-2866. lafrasca.ca PIATTO PIZZERIA + ENOTECA Neapolitan-style pizza, the first VPN certified pizza in the Maritimes. Open daily. 5144 Morris St. 902-406-0909. piattopizzeria.com RINALDO’S New family-run spot, offering Italian-American favourites like eggplant parmesan, cavatelli and meatballs, hero sandwiches, and pizza aplenty. One of Where Canada’s Best New Restaurants in Canada. Open Tuesday–Sunday; weekend brunch. 2186 Windsor St. 902-425-0400. rinaldos.ca RISTORANTE A MANO The menu features Italian specialties and gourmet pizzas. Open Monday–Saturday, 11:30am–10pm. 1477 Lower Water St. 902-423-6266. TOMAVINO’S Cozy, romantic atmosphere. Dining by candlelight. Pizza, pasta. Gluten-free crust and pasta. Delivery. Open daily. 1113 Marginal Rd. 902-425-9111. tomavinos.ca THE VINES PASTA GRILL Italian favourites with an emphasis on creative pasta. The take-out menu offers quick food to go, and Sundays feature a brunch buffet. Open 4pm–9pm Tuesday– Saturday, 11am–9pm Sunday. 4 Panavista Dr. 902-434-4114. vinespastagrill.com


JAPANESE

BACKOO’S KOREAN FOOD Laid-back locale dishing up a compact menu of Korean fried chicken, sides, and local beers. Open daily. 1358 Birmingham St. 902-423-2004. facebook.com/backoos

FUJIYAMA Specializing in sushi and hibachi, this casual spot offers a wide variety of Japanese cuisine, with an extensive selection of sashimi and teriyaki dishes as well. Open daily. 5244 Blowers St. 902-492-1133. sushifujiyama.com

LEBANESE

BUTA RAMEN Compact and moder locale for tonkotsu, tantanmen, and Nagasaki champon noodle soups. Open daily. 5190 Morris St. 902-422-0245. butaramen.ca

KITSUNE FOOD CO. Takeout spot dishes up homestyle Japanese fare including seaweed salad, nigari and maki sushi, and handfolded pork and vegan dumplings. Check Facebook for hours. 5710 Young St. 902-406-5010. facebook.com/kitsunehalifax MOMOYA RESTAURANT Offering a broad range of Japanese dishes in a casual setting, including sushi, udon and soba noodles, tempura, and maki rolls. 1671 Barrington St. 902-492-0788. SUSHI NAMI ROYALE Japanese fine dining with traditional and fusion sushi, plus exotic cocktails. The décor is modern with traditional accents. Open Monday–Saturday, 11:30am to midnight; Sunday, 4:30pm–11pm. 1458 Queen Street: 902-422-9020. 278 Lacewood Dr. 149 Hector Gate. sushinami.ca Map 1 TOKYO ROLL Relaxed spot for basic rolls, fusio rolls, bento boxes, and teriyaki. 1598 Argyle St. 902-425-8886. facebook.com/tokyorollhalifax

KOREAN

ARISU TABLE BBQ & SUSHI BAR Korean-Japanese fusion. Highlights include Korean KING Short Ribs, Japanese Wagyu Beef, Crispy Valentine Roll, and Surf & Turf Roll. Open Sunday to Thursday 11am–10pm, Friday and Saturday–11pm. W. 1645 Granville St. 902-420-1370. arisubbq.ca

MEZZA LEBANESE KITCHEN Quick-serve Lebanese cuisine: falafels, souvlaki, pountine, donairs, salads, shwarma, wraps. Open daily. 1558 Barrington St. 902-429-2929. Eight other locations around the city. mezzalebanesekitchen.com RAY’S ORIGINAL LEBANESE CUISINE Long one of the city’s favourite spots for tasty and inexpensive Lebanese fare: combo plates, all-day breakfast, grilled fish, classic Halifax donairs, and more. 120 Susie Lake Cres. 902-425-7297. rayslebanesecuisine.ca

MEXICAN

ANTOJO TACO + TEQUILA Vibrant Mexican-inspired dishes and a wide selection of tequila and mezcal. Tacos, enchiladas, ceviche, and more. Open daily from 11:30am. 1667 Argyle St. 902-405-2790. antojo.ca BURRITO JAX Quick and casual spot offering freshly prepared Mexican food. Scratch-made burritos are the house specialty. Open Monday–Saturday. 5215 Blowers St. 902-406-0088. 3117 Kempt Rd. 902-404-7879. burritojax.com HABANEROS MODERN TACO BAR This quick and casual spot boasts modern Mexican cuisine with a twist, all featuring locally sourced ingredients. From the creators of the burger joint Cheese Curds. Unit B, 1551 South Park St. 380 Pleasant St., Dartmouth. 600 Windmill Rd., Dartmouth. habaneros.biz

the r with one of oukfasts! amazing brea

Halifax, 1535 Dresden Row, Downtown Clayton Park, 277 Lacewood Drive, Halifax Bedford, 1475 Bedford Highway, Bedford Dartmouth, 644 Portland Street, Dartmouth Wright Avenue, 16 Garland Avenue, Dartmouth Breakfast and Lunch

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DINING

CLASSIC PUB

Steps from the waterfront and Historic Properties on Granville Street, the Split Crow (page 69) is a favourite with locals and visitors alike, offering live music, cold beer, friendly crowds, and more. MEXICALI ROSA’S The California-style Mexican menu features sizzling fajitas. Take-out orders and party bookings available. Open daily. 5472 Spring Garden Rd. 902-422-7672. MEXICO LINDO Authentic Mexican. Casual setting. Burritos, chimichangas, tacos, hearty consome de pollo. Combination plates, gluten-free options. Open Tuesday–Saturday. 3635 Dutch Village Rd. mexicolindo.ca TACO LINA’S Inside Gus’ Pub. House-made flour and corn tortillas, tacos al pastor, Baja fish tacos, nachos and more. Open daily. 2605 Agricola St. facebook.com/tacolinas

NIGHTCLUBS & WINEBARS

THE BITTER END Wine and martini bar, tapas. Casual dining and spirits. Voted as makers of Halifax’s best martini and bloody caesar. 1572 Argyle St. 902-425-3039. thebitterend.ca ECONOMY SHOE SHOP Check out The Backstage for a glass of wine or head to the Diamond and choose your own music on the juke box. Full menu till 11pm, tapas till 2am. Open from 11am–2am. 1663 Argyle St. 902-423-8845. MENZ & MOLLYZ Billed as an “all-inclusive LGTBQI community destination.” Karaoke, dancing, and drag shows. Vibrant, welcoming atmosphere. 2182 Gottingen St. 902-446-6969. menzbar.ca NICHE Supper club/lounge. The menu emphasizes tapas and international flavours. Variety is the hallmark of the wine list. Open daily. Maritime Centre. Corner of Spring Garden Rd. and Barrington St. 902-423-6632. OBLADEE A selection of wines paired with artisanal cheese and charcuterie. Some 30 wines available by the glass, 40 by the bottle. Open weekdays from 11:30am, and weekends from 4pm. 1600 Barrington St. 902-405-4505. obladee.ca

TABOO NIGHTCLUB Chic nightclub offering private booths and attentive service. Packages include a host/hostess, private booth, complimentary admission, and coat check. 1735 Grafton St. 902-423-8226. taboonightclub.ca

PIZZA

BRAMOSO PIZZERIA & BEER BAR Hand-crafted brick-oven pizzas, including gluten-free, dairy-free, and vegan options. Signature creations include the Tuscan Sun (white sauce, hot banana peppers, pineapple, sundried tomatoes, green olives) and Lombardy’s Fire (smoked bacon, jalapeno, pineapple). Delivery and take-out. 6169 Quinpool Rd. 902-425-2222. bramoso.com FREEMAN’S Friendly neighbourhood spot, expanded from the mother ship on Quinpool Road to four dining rooms around the city. All-day breakfast, pizza, pasta, burgers, and ItalianAmerican favourites aplenty. Open daily. Delivery until late. 6092 Quinpool Rd.: 902-429-0241. 3671 Dutch Village Rd.: 902-445-5256. 1726 Grafton St.: 902-444-7008. 552 Sackville Dr., Lower Sackville. 902-865-2555. freemanspizza.ca LA PIAZZA RISTORANTE Casual neighbourhood spot boasting wood-oven pizza and a variety of Italian entrées. Private party room. Open daily. 6430 Chebucto Rd. 902-404-5885. lapiazzarestocafe.com MORRIS EAST Intimate spot specializing in pizza, prepared in a wood-fired oven. The dynamic menu showcases locally sourced ingredients. Open Tuesday–Sunday. 5212 Morris St: 902-444-7663. 1984 Vernon St.: 902-444-7669. 620 Nine Mile Dr., Bedford West: 902-444-7671 morriseast.com

ROAD TRIP Just a 40-minute drive west of the city, the historic fishing village of Peggy’s Cove (page EC1) is the perfect spot to see the wild Atlantic (from a safe distance) in its turbulent majesty. 68 where.ca NOV/DEC 2019


MOTHER’S PIZZA Raw-edged wood tables and terrariums create a homey vibe at this pie parlour serving a compact menu of hand-tossed, wood-fired pizzas made with local ingredients. 5710 Young St. 902-406-5050. motherspizzacanada.ca SALVATORE’S PIZZAIOLO TRATTORIA New York-Italian cuisine. Best known for its original cheese pizza and Italian hero sandwich. Everything scratch-made on site. Open daily. 4451 Young St. 902-455-1133. salvatorespizza.ca STONE PIZZA Quick-casual eatery serving custom pizzas, with gluten-free and vegan options. Serves Pop Shoppe sodas and local beer and cider. Open daily. 79 Alderney Dr., Dartmouth. 902-444-2660. stonepizza.ca

PUBS

BREWSTERS BAR & GRILL Hearty home-style food: steak, burgers, seafood, pasta, all-day breakfast, and more. Daily specials. Mill Cove Plaza, 961 Bedford Hwy., Bedford. 902-832-0032. brewstersbarandgrill.ca THE CELTIC CORNER Friendly neighbourhood pub serving traditional, hearty favourites. Traditional East Coast music Thursday–Sunday; open-mic on Tuesday. Open Sunday– Thursday, 11am–midnight; open until 1am on Friday and Saturday. 69 Alderney Dr., Dartmouth. 902-464-0764. celticcorner.ca DURTY NELLY’S AUTHENTIC IRISH PUB From the perfect pint to a menu showcasing traditional cuisine (fish and chips, pan-fried haddock, lamb stew), this pub offers a truly Irish experience. Open daily from 11:30am; weekend brunch until 3pm. Corner of Argyle and Sackville streets. 902-406-7640. durtynellys.ca GUS’ PUB Long-established neighbourhood pub that has enjoyed a trendy resurgence in recent years. Live entertainment, local beer, food by Taco Lina’s. 2605 Agricola St. 902-434-7786. THE LOOSE CANNON SCOTTISH PUBLIC HOUSE Traditional pub favourites like fish n’ chips, burgers, nachos, and curry. Authentic-style haggis. Weekend brunch. 1566 Argyle St. 902-407-8797. theloosecannon.ca THE LOWER DECK PUB—BEER MARKET Try a house-made burger or traditional bangers and mash. The Beer Market has many popular beers on tap. Historic Properties. 902-425-1501. lowerdeck.ca THE MAXWELL’S PLUM Enjoy the city’s largest selection of draft beers from many Maritime breweries. Sixty beers on tap, even more varieties in bottles and cans. 1600 Grafton St. 902-423-5090. themaxwellsplum.com OASIS PUB Casual atmosphere, big TVs for sports. Pool tables, shuffleboard. Monday: open mic, Thursday: karaoke and wing night. Live music on weekends. 5661 Spring Garden Rd. 902-422-2227. oasishfx.com THE OLD TRIANGLE IRISH ALEHOUSE A taste of Ireland in the heart of downtown Halifax. Three-room pub offers live entertainment nightly (no cover charge) and Irish pub-style food. 5136 Prince St. 902-492-4900. oldtriangle.com OLIVER’S GASTROPUB European-style pub offering a selection of local and imported beer and wine. Breakfast, weekend brunch, broad lunch and dinner menu: burgers, nachos, wings, pizza, steak, fresh Atlantic seafood, and more. Open daily. 3009 Hwy. 2, Fall River. 902-861-3480. innonthelake.com RED STAG TAVERN Historic setting. Specials include half-price appetizers and two-for-one. Brewery Market, 1496 Lower Water St. 902-422-0275. redstag.ca RIVERSIDE PUB & EATERY Casual neighbourhood pub with a patio overlooking the Sackville River. Varied pub-grub menu, all-day breakfast. Open daily. 1552 Bedford Hwy., Bedford. 902-835-1648.

SEAMUS DAVID’S PUB Traditional pub fare with Irish flair. Open daily. Weekend brunch. 21 Logiealmond Close, Dartmouth Crossing. 902-462-2034. SPLIT CROW Maritime pub offers cold drinks and an extensive menu. Live East Coast music every night. 1855 Granville St. 902-422-4366. YOUR FATHER’S MOUSTACHE Friendly atmosphere and great food are complemented by fine local entertainment. 5686 Spring Garden Rd. 902-423-6766.

STEAK & SEAFOOD

THE BARRINGTON STEAKHOUSE & OYSTER BAR Locally sourced ingredients, modern and inviting atmosphere, knowledgeable staff. Atlantic Canadian beef, local seafood, and wines selected by the in-house sommelier. Located in a historic building in the heart of the downtown. Open daily. 1662 Barrington St. 902-407-5001. barringtonsteakhouse.ca BOONDOCKS RESTAURANT Serving fresh seafood just steps from the ocean in a historic fishing village. Large patio overlooks the Atlantic. Open daily. Fisherman’s Cove, 6 Government Wharf Rd., Eastern Passage. 902-465-3474. boondocksrestaurant.ca CUT STEAKHOUSE Sublime service and contemporary décor. CAA Four Diamond winner annually since opening. Halifax’s most extensive wine cellar; Wine Spectator awarded. Beef dry-aged on-site. Open daily from 5pm. 5120 Salter St. 902-429-5120. cutsteakhouse.com FIVE FISHERMEN Fresh lobster, Atlantic salmon, and Digby scallops are among the specialties. Dinner from 5pm. Weekday lunch, weekend brunch from 11am–3pm. 1740 Argyle St. 902-422-4421. thefivefishermen.com THE KEG Great steaks and a warm atmosphere. Friendly conversations hum cheerfully throughout, above the familiar sizzle and aroma of steaks and seafood on the grill, and the celebratory clinking of glasses. 1712 Market St. 902-425-8355. McKELVIE’S Fine seafood and traditional Nova Scotian fare: blackened salmon, potato-crusted haddock, Szechuan shrimp and scallops, lemon-thyme mussels, crab cakes, pastas, Black Angus steaks, and more. Open daily. 1680 Lower Water St. 902-421-6161. mckelvies.com MURPHY’S THE CABLE WHARF Almost every seat is a window seat—an ideal spot to while away a sunny afternoon. Open daily. Cable Wharf, 1751 Lower St. 902-420-1015. ambassatours.com/restaurant PICKFORD & BLACK Fresh local seafood paired with craft beer from Gahan House and other selections. Harbourside patio. Historic Properties, 1869 Upper Water St. 902-406-3474. pickfordblack.com RHUBARB Casual fine dining by the sea. Seasonal menu, showcasing seasonal local flavours. Open daily. 8650 Peggy’s Cove Rd., Indian Harbour. 902-821-3013. rhubarbrestaurant.ca SALTY’S RESTAURANT Sit dockside in the patio bar, or upstairs in the dining room. Fresh lobster, salmon, scallops, and shrimp. Open daily from 11:30am. Historic Properties, 902-423-6818. saltys.ca SEA SMOKE RESTAURANT & BAR Asian-inspired seafood, sushi, and steaks. Highlights include spicy snow crab, five-spice garlic lobster, black cod misoyaki, and mussels. Lunch combos, sharing dishes, raw bar. 1477 Lower Water St. 902-406-1051. seasmokehalifax.com SOU’WESTER Set among the rocks in beautiful Peggy’s Cove. Popular offerings include chowder, lobster, and fish and chips. 48 kilometres from downtown Halifax on Rte. 333, Peggy’s Cove. 902-823-2561.

NOV/DEC 2019 where.ca

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PHOTO: TAMMY FANCY

DINING

WILD THING

Find all manner of scratch-made vegan comfort food—plus gluten, dairy, and nut-free options—at Wild Leek (below) on Windsor Street.

SHUCK SEAFOOD + RAW BAR Fresh locally supplied, Oceanwise-certified seafood. Award-winning Chef Dwayne MacLeod highlights the quality and flavour of each offering. Eclectic and affordable wine list. 5120 Salter St. 902-429-5120. shuckseafood.ca SURFSIDE INN DINING ROOM Nova Scotia-inspired cuisine paired with wines from around the world, plus a selection of local vintages. Reservations required; hours vary. 9609 St. Margaret’s Bay Rd., Queensland. 1-800-373-2417. thesurfsideinn.com WATERFRONT WAREHOUSE RESTAURANT Fresh Maritime seafood in a casual nautical atmosphere. It’s the only restaurant in the city offering fresh lobster, crab, and oysters all under one roof. Open daily, 11:30am–10pm. 1549 Lower Water St. 902-425-7610. Map 1

THAI

BAAN THAI RESTAURANT Comfortable, casual Thai restaurant. Specialties include pad thai, spicy noodles, cashew chicken, massaman curry, green curry, and red curry. 5234 Blowers St. 902-446-4301. baanthai.ca CHA BAA THAI RESTAURANT Four locations around the city serving authentic and inexpensive Thai flavours. 1546 Queen St. 5858 Demone St. 1511 Bedford Hwy., Bedford. 100 Ilsley Ave., Dartmouth. chabaathairestaurant.ca STAR ANISE Specializes in Vietnamese and Thai dishes. Open Monday–Friday 11am–9:30pm; Saturday noon–9:30pm. 1571 Barrington St. 902-422-2602. staranisenoodle.com TALAY THAI RESTAURANT Choose from creations like Gung Pad Pik Pow (basil prawn with chili paste), Pla Muek Tod Katem (garlic shrimp), and more. Delivery after 5pm. Open for lunch Monday–Friday noon–2:30pm.; daily for dinner, 5pm to 10pm. 1300 Hollis St. 902-404-3700. 70 where.ca NOV/DEC 2019

TEA HOUSES

WORLD TEA HOUSE In the heart of the downtown, across the street from Neptune Theatre. Old-World tea traditions meet modern mixology and café culture. Open Monday–Saturday 10am–8pm; Sunday noon–5pm. 1592 Argyle St. worldteahouse.ca SAWADEE TEA HOUSE Exotic tea house offers 150 types of premium loose tea leaves, fresh from plantations around the world. Open daily. Granville Mall, 1871 Granville St. 902-422-4192. sawadeeteahouse.com

TURKISH

TURKISH DELIGHT KEBAP HOUSE Turkish doners. Seafood and mezes. Kebaps of lamb, chicken, and other varieties. Vegetarian offers. Open daily. 5680 Spring Garden Rd. 902-446-4366. turkishdelighthalifax.ca EFENDY TURKISH & MEDITERRANEAN GRILL Authentic cuisine at a reasonable price. Everything is hand-made, with meat cooked on a charcoal grill. Popular items include mixed kebabs, lamb shanks, tuna steak, vegetarian options, and more. Open daily. 1569 Dresden Row. 902-444-8064. efendyrestaurant.com

VEGETARIAN & VEGAN

ENVIE Vegan kitchen showcasing scratch-made comfort made with GMO-free ingredients. Favourites include vegan charcuterie, barbecue pulled-tofu tacos, pad Thai, and weekend brunch. Open Tuesday–Sunday. 5775 Charles St. 902-492-4077. enviehalifax.com WILD LEEK Made-from-scratch vegan comfort food, fresh juices, and gourmet desserts, with gluten, dairy, and nut-free options. Open daily. 2148 Windsor St. 902-444-5466. wildleek.ca


On stage November 27 December 28

Book now at neptunetheatre.com Starting as low as $25 Featuring Rhys Bevan-John and Simon Henderson


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Profile for Metro Guide Publishing

Where Halifax Nov-Dec 2019  

Where Halifax Nov-Dec 2019