2020 August Oak Cliff

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EDITORIAL

publisher: Lisa Kresl

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managing editor: Jehadu Abshiro jabshiro@advocatemag.com

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SENIOR EDITORS:

Rachel Stone

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Jaime Dunaway

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EDITOR:

Marissa Alvarado

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associate editor: Claire Crow ccrow@advocatemag.com

digital manager: Autumn Grisby agrisby@advocatemag.com

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designer: Ashley Drake

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designer: Emily Hulen Thompson

contributors: George Mason, Patti Vinson, Carol Toler, Scott Shirley, Matthew Ruffner

interns: Margaret O’Rourke, Natalie Tarrant, Samuel

Maude

photo editor: Danny Fulgencio

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contributing photographers: Kathy Tran

president: Rick Wamre

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Advocate, © 2020, is published monthly by East Dallas – Lakewood People Inc. Contents of this magazine may not be reproduced. Advertisers and advertising agencies assume liability for the content of all advertisements printed, and therefore assume responsibility for any and all claims against the Advocate. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any editorial or advertising material. Opinions set forth in the Advocate are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the publisher’s viewpoint. More than 200,000 people read Advocate publications each month. Advertising rates and guidelines are available upon request. Advocate publications are available free of charge throughout our neighborhoods, one copy per reader. Advocate was founded in 1991 by Jeff Siegel, Tom Zielinski and Rick Wamre.

ABOUT THE COVER

An architectural detail of the Kessler Theater, which was built as a movie theater in 1941 and renovated in 2010.

Photography by Danny Fulgencio.

FOLLOW US: Talk to us: editor@advocatemag.com

Newsletter: advocatemag.com/newsletter

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NEWSMAKERS

n The owners of Tiny Victories in Oak Cliff are among the Dallas bar owners who sued Gov. Greg Abbott after the State of Texas shut down bars for a second time in June. The plaintiffs are seeking $1 million in damages and claim that the law is vague and a violation of their rights. Brandon Hays and Phillip Schanbaum also own High Fives, The Whippersnapper and Ferris Wheeler’s.

WE CAN’T STOP TALKING ABOUT...

Kiest Park vandals, who broke in several times over the July 4 weekend and caused thousands of dollars in damages, breaking windows, kicking in doors and destroying computers. Vandals also caused damage at the park’s tennis and senior centers as well as Jimmie Tyler Brashear Elementary and the Hampton Illinois Library.

#PICTUREPERFECT

Dallas now has its own Pride flag. We might be the first city in the United State to put our city’s seal on the rainbow flag. Photo courtesy of Ashley Long.

Learn more on Instagram @OakCliffAdvocate.

Endangered history

The 91-year-old Atlas Metalworks building on Singleton Boulevard represents the expansion of industrial real estate after modern levees were built to protect West Dallas. El Fenix on Colorado Boulevard, built in 1948, is where every school and social club in Oak Cliff held lunches and awards ceremonies for decades. Those two properties are among Preservation Dallas’ list of “Most Endangered Historic Places,” released in July. The list also includes Dallas ISD schools that are at risk because of a district plan to demolish and replace 17 schools. The ones in Oak Cliff and West Dallas are W.H. Atwell Law Academy, Dallas Environmental Science Academy, Lenore Kirk Hall Elementary, George Peabody Elementary and Elisha M. Pease Elementary.

Lung Cancer?

Asbestos exposure in industrial, construction, manufacturing jobs, or the military may be the cause. Family in the home were also exposed. Call 1-866-795-3684 or email cancer@breakinginjurynews.com. $30 billion is set aside for asbestos victims with cancer. Valuable settlement monies may not require filing a lawsuit.

Oak Cliff Advocate TOP REAL ESTATE AGENT 2019

MAYRANT DRIVE $445,000 PENDING Wynnewood North

BANDWAGON

OAK CLIFF has joined the Monopoly family. Available at the Walmart off Ledbetter, Oak Cliff-opoly allows you to buy the Oak Cliff Film Festival, own the entire Bishop Arts District and get stuck in traffic (instead of going to jail). The game, which seems to sell out on the same day, will be replenished continually. Produced by Late for the Sky, there are other city based versions like Daytona Beach-opoly and Napa Valley-opoly.

NEW IN TOWN

(+) A new Asian-inspired Cajun restaurant opened in the Bishop Arts District. Krio, at 223 W. Seventh Street at Zang, had its grand opening recently. Owners Dan Bui and Connie Cheng started their culinary journey with crawfish boils and pop-up dinners, and now they’ve ventured into a permanent space.

(+) Local chain White Rhino opened up a location in Bishop Arts District. The small chain, which started in Cedar Hill in 2007, also has locations in Waxahachie and Red Oak. Located at 223 W. Seventh Street at Zang, White Rhino features food and coffee menus.

GOOD NEWS OF THE DAY

Little free pantries popped up in Oak Cliff in response to the pandemic. Newlyweds Amber Padilla and Jonathan Smith put up a “blessings box” outside of their house with toilet paper. Emily Ruth Cannon stocked her free library with beans, bread and other staples. Maroches Bakery now also has the X+ “people’s pantry” which also provides essentials for the community.

(+) Grab food, drinks and a golf club at Another Round Mini Golf and Bar. “After traveling to the best miniature golf venues across the country, we have drawn inspiration from the best elements of each to bring an elevated indoor version to Oak Cliff,” owner Kendall Spence says. This new Insta-ready treat is at 660 Fort Worth Ave. and is currently taking reservations for small groups.

MEET THE CADILAC OF OAK CLIFF

The driving force behind Cadilac Law is Lauren Cadilac. Lauren’s all-female firm is family focused, with five women, seven children and three senior parents in the mix.

Lauren’s concentration is real estate, wills, estate planning, probate and property tax protests. “I can’t emphasize enough the importance for singles — single parents especially — to have a will and establish Power of Attorney in case of catastrophe,” she says.

With a competitor’s spirit, Lauren loves researching remedies outside of court, but she litigates when necessary.

Mom of Noah, Liberty and 10-pound rescue pup Timm’e, Lauren enjoys membership in Oak Cliff Women in Business and Dallas’ All Breed Obedience Training Club.

Cadilac Law, PLLC Cadilaclaw.net 972-845-1200.

FACE OF LAW

DINNER PARTY DIJONNAISE

Pro tips from a natural hostess 

Story by RACHEL STONE | Photography by DANNY FULGENCIO

Imagine moving to Texas in 1977 from your hometown in the Burgundy region of France. This was not a foodie paradise at the time. Bread was white. Lettuce was iceberg. Cheese was Kraft Singles. Lancers was wine.

That’s the culinary climate that Pierrette Lacour walked into when she arrived in Dallas from Dijon on Jan. 2 that year.

After more than 40 years here, including 17 years throwing dinner parties on her Oak Cliff front lawn, Lacour is selling her tiny house on North Clinton Avenue. She’s moving back to her hometown, where she bought an 18th-century house near her sister.

Oak Cliff may never be the same.

Her legendary dinner parties started when an artist friend fell into depression and stopped eating. They had a standing Tuesday dinner, which turned into a salon with artists, writers and academics sharing food, friendship and ideas.

Even in a 600-square-foot house with a tiny kitchen, cooking for nine or 10 guests was never a problem.

“What I see is that Americans, they are afraid of cooking,” Lacour says.

Nothing she makes is complicated, she says.

Lacour married an American and moved to Austin, where she found some guys selling groceries — the good stuff, including real wine and cheese — out of their garage. They turned out to be the founders of Whole Foods.

She rang up cross-continental phone bills calling her grandmother in Dijon, who talked Lacour through all of her own classic recipes. Whenever Lacour asked how to cook something, her grandmother would say, “Oh! It’s very easy!”

Lacour cooks every night, and she says she rarely takes more than 20 minutes to make dinner.

Here’s how she does it.

Choose a grocery store that has high-quality ingredients. If the components taste good, the dish will taste good. Lacour’s go-to stores are Cox Farms Market and Aldi. Her daughter, Jean-Marie Browning, makes the trek to Central Market for things like French butter and better cuts of meat. Smaller produce often has better flavor, she says, so don’t go for the biggest onion or eggplant.

Let produce inspire you. When tomatoes are in season,

she puts them in everything. In the fall, she uses a lot of cauliflower.“Whatever I see will guide me for what I am going to cook,” Lacour says.

Season chicken, pork and beef with the “French trinity” of salt, pepper and herbes de Provence. Here’s how she cooks pork loin: Stick thin slices of garlic into slits cut all over the loin, and rub the whole thing with good mustard. Heat olive oil in a deep pan and sear the meat on all sides. Slice half an onion and add it to the pan, along with about ¾ of an inch of liquid — water, wine or broth. Turn down the heat. Slice three small tomatoes and add those. Cover and cook until the meat’s internal temperature reaches 145 degrees.

Lacour’s dinners always start with salad in summer and vegetable soup in cold months. Wash lettuce as soon as it comes home from the grocery store so it’s ready for salads. Lacour makes mustard vinaigrette and keeps it in a jar in the fridge.

When things take longer to cook, make large quantities. Browning fixes 5-pound batches of Bolognese sauce, then divides it into portions to freeze. Lacour will make ratatouille for a main course and then serve the leftovers later in the week mixed with quinoa or pasta.

Keep a well-stocked pantry. Lacour always has mustard, olive and sunflower oils, dried pasta, tomato paste and heavy whipping cream to make sauces.

A good baguette can be hard to find, but Lacour and Browning like the Italianstyle loaf from Trader Joe’s frozen section. Lacour always serves fruit for dessert, but she also makes at least one French pound cake, called a quatre quart, every week. If you ask for the recipe, she will give you the measurements in grams — she uses a scale to weigh the ingredients. It’s the French way.

Hosting dinner parties comes naturally to Lacour. She even likes washing the dishes by hand afterward to meditate on the evening. “My religion is cooking,” she says. “Breaking bread with friends.”

When cooking for company, always make something that you’ve done before, something that makes you happy to cook, she says. One of her tricks is to delay serving the food to make sure that everyone is very hungry when it’s served. Everything tastes better that way.

The most important thing is to relax, she says. It’s just dinner. “You’re not doing it to impress people,” she says. “You’re doing it because you’re sharing.”

A simple French-American menu of cheese board, salad, stuffed tomatoes and rice.

HIDDEN GEM

MEXICAN HOME COOKING IN BISHOP ARTS

Story by RACHEL STONE | Photography by KATHY TRAN

Garanchas are tiny fried quesadillas stuffed with fajita, Oaxaca cheese and beans.

FOOD IN OUR NEIGHBORHOOD

COCO’S FIRE + ICE gives Bishop Arts a hidden spot.

Find it at the back of Mercado 369 on North Bishop, or enter through the patio facing the adjacent alley.

Inside the small restaurant, diners can see into the kitchen, and hospitality is a high priority.

“We look to give customers the best experience and to share our culture,” says general manager Luis Cáceres. “Because we are so small, we are able to touch every table and make a connection with people.”

Coco’s menu is simple, and everything is handmade. Huaraches, savory corncakes bigger than your hand, come topped with carne asada, lettuce and crema.

Enchiladas mineras, “mining” enchiladas from silver-rich Guanajuato, are filled with queso fresco and topped with slow-cooked guajillo sauce.

Order the guacamole appetizer with or without chapulines — that’s grasshoppers, which can also be ordered on tacos.

Other standout dishes include mole poblano and the Mexico City-style quesadilla stuffed with carne asada and Oaxaca cheese. There are also fish tacos, ceviche and a cinco leches cake.

“We have only grandmas cooking back there, so the food is really amazing,” Cáceres says. “It has that homemade touch.”

Coco’s closed for three months after the start of the pandemic and reopened at the end of June. But by then, about half of its employees had moved to Mexico. Head chef Gloria Morales is still in the kitchen, so the recipes are the same.

Besides its home-style Mexican food, Coco’s bar program is also something special.

The bar carries hard-to-find agave-based spirits as well as pulque, the Aztec fermented beverage that predates the Spanish Conquest.

Coco’s Fire + Ice originally opened in December 2018, and it’s a venture from Socorro Dismore, an entrepreneur who also owns Levine’s. She says she opened the restaurant because she wanted a place that would serve home cooking like her own mother’s.

“Coco’s is a very special place to me and my family, and I hope that those who visit us see that it can be their special place, too,” she says.

The restaurant offers limited reservations for dine-in service, and food and cocktails are available for takeout.

Coco’s Fire + Ice, 410 N. Bishop Ave.

can deliver to you.

BEST F 2020 2020

More than 100,000 votes were cast to select the best of 2020. Be sure to visit all of these local spots, and share your pictures on social media - we’d love to see you around the neighborhood.

Best of Dining

BEST DONUT SHOP

Winner - Oak Cliff Doughnuts

Runner-up - Southern Maid Donuts

2nd place - Vera’s Bakery

BEST PLACE TO WATCH A GAME

Winner - PhD

Runner-up - The Local Oak

2nd place - Nova

BEST CELEBRATORY DINNER

Winner - Paradiso

Runner-up - Victor Hugo’s

2nd place - Stock & Barrel

BEST PATIO

Winner - Gloria’s

Runner-up - Botanist/Paradiso

2nd place - PhD

BEST HEALTHY BITE

Winner - Ann’s Health Food Center & Market

Runner-up - Tribal All Day Cafe

2nd place - JuiceLand

BEST MEXICAN FOOD

Winner - El Ranchito

Runner-up - La Calle Doce

2nd place - Veracruz Cafe

BEST ASIAN FOOD

Winner - Pho 88

Runner-up - Zen Sushi

2nd place - Ten Ramen

BEST WINE LIST

Winner - Bishop Arts Winery

Runner-up - Taco Y Vino

2nd place - CiboDivino Marketplace

BEST FROZEN TREATS

Winner - Picolé Pops

Runner-up - Azucar Ice Cream Co.

2nd place - Encanto Pops

BEST DESSERTS

Winner - Emporuim Pies

Runner-up - Vera’s Bakery

2nd place - Cretia’s Eatery & Bake Shoppe

BEST BURGER JOINT

Winner - Hunky’s Old Fashioned

Hamburgers

Runner-up - Country Burger

2nd place - Wingfield’s Breakfast & Burger

BEST PIZZA

Winner - Home Run Pizza

Runner-up - Eno’s Pizza Tavern

2nd place - Old Hag’s Pizza & Pasta

BEST TACOS

Winner - Taqueria El Si Hay

Runner-up - Maskaras Mexican Grill

2nd place - La Paisanita

BEST BAR/COCKTAILS

Winner - Tiny Victories

Runner-up - The Local Oak

2nd place - Victor Hugo’s

BEST NIGHT OUT

Winner - La Calle Doce

Runner-up - El Ranchito

2nd place - Paradiso

BEST SANDWICH

Winner - Dallas Grilled Cheese Co.

Runner-up - Hunky’s Old Fashioned

Hamburgers

2nd place - Cheesesteak House

BEST COFFEE

Winner - Hola Cafe

Runner-up - Espumoso Caffe

2nd place - Oddfellows

BEST BREAKFAST

Winner - Norma’s Café

Runner-up - El Jordan Cafe

2nd place - Jonathon’s Oak Cliff

Best of Culture

BEST PLACE TO TAKE YOUR DOG

Winner - Kiest Park

Runner-up - Kidd Springs Park

2nd place - Elmwood dog park

BEST PLACE FOR LIVE MUSIC

Winner - Kessler Theater

Runner-up - Bishop Arts Theatre Center

2nd place - Texas Theatre

BEST LOCAL ATTRACTION

Winner - Bishop Arts District

Runner-up - Oak Cliff Cultural Center

2nd place - Mercado369

BEST PLACE FOR KIDS

Winner - Dallas Zoo

Runner-up - Kidd Springs Park and Recreation Center

2nd place - North Oak Cliff Library

BEST PLACE TO RELAX

Winner - Kidd Springs Park

2NDLake Cliff Park

2nd place - Twelve Hills Nature Center

Best of Service

BEST BARBER SHOP

Winner - Bishop Barbers

Runner-up - Bishop Barber Babes

2nd place - Oak Cliff Barbers

BEST HAIR SALONS

Winner - The Mod Labb

Runner-up - V+F Beauty Lounge

2nd place - Sweet 200 Salon

BEST CONTRACTOR

Winner - Omni Contractors

Runner-up - Stash Design

2nd place - Atrius Renovation

BEST INTERIOR DESIGN

Winner - Stage Wright Interiors

Runner-up - Peters-Cates Design

BEST PLACE TO GET PAMPERED

Winner - Bella Med Spa

Runner-up - YaYa Foot Spa

2nd place - Skin and Body Solutions Day Spa

BEST SALON/NAILS

Winner - Nail MD Spa

Runner-up - Pink Pedi

3rd Resort Nail Spa

BEST FLORAL SHOP

Winner - Gloria’s Flowers

Runner-up - DIRT Flowers

2nd place - I Love Roses Florist

BEST GIFT SHOP

Winner - Bishop Street Market

Runner-up - Fete-ish

2nd place - We are 1976

BEST SPECIALTY SHOP

Winner - Bishop Street Market

Runner-up - Home on Bishop

2nd place - Oil & Cotton

BEST PLACE TO WORK OUT

Winner - The Sweat Shop

Runner-up - Planet Fitness

2nd place - 24 Hour Fitness

BEST PET SERVICES

Winner - Oak Clips

Runner-up - Bishop Arts Dog Grooming

2nd place - Green Pet

BEST HOME AND GARDEN

Winner - Bishop Street Market

Runner-up - Home on Bishop

2nd place - Oasis Plant Shop

d o-it-yourself s ummer

Story by RACHEL STONE | Photography by KATHY TRAN

these Oak Cliff neighbors refused to let the dog days pass them by and took summer fun into their own hands.

MAKE IT GLAM

Last summer, Marissa Mata spent several weeks traveling in France and Italy with her daughter and nieces.

Not only is globetrotting off limits this year, there’s no spending afternoons poolside at the Belmont Hotel or the Fraternal Order of Eagles.

The prospect of spending the entire summer inside with a 6-year-old was too much to bear.

“I woke up from a depression nap and built this in a month,” she says.

Anyone who grew up in the country probably swam in a galvanized tub at some point. But do-it-yourself stock-tank pools have become all the rage in urban living since the pandemic.

By the time Mata started building hers in late May, she could only find two 8-foot stock tanks for sale in all of Texas. The closest

was about 75 miles away in Glen Rose.

The tank itself cost about $300, but she spent hundreds more on landscaping rocks to level her yard.

The filter pump cost about $100. An O-ring that should cost a couple of dollars was impossible to find for a fair price. She wound up buying a $35 bundle containing stuff she didn’t need just for that $2 part.

She painted the outside of her tank white for the aesthetics, and she found a guy on an Oak Cliff Facebook page to build a deck for $2,000.

Last year, Mata renovated her kitchen around a pink Smeg refrigerator, and she carried her color scheme of millennial pink and blueprint blue to the backyard.

A playhouse kit purchased on eBay only came in brown, so she and her daughter spent a weekend painting it to match.

Friends helped her build a fire pit with brick pavers. She planted zinnias and used the outdoor furniture she already had, plus a few sun chairs and umbrellas ordered from Ikea.

“It’s not a professional design job,” says Mata’s friend Heather Poile. “But it’s cute.”

Heather Poile and Melinda Brooks enjoy a dip in the stock-tank pool. The tank itself costs less than $500, but they’re in high demand.

MAKE IT SIMPLE

LaToya Scales didn’t need a pandemic to put in a do-it-yourself pool.

The labor and delivery nurse, who has lived in Oak Cliff since 2015, built her 6-foot stock-tank pool last summer after finding a tutorial on Instagram.

Mata in turn found Scales via hashtags, and they exchanged pointers.

“I grew up in apartments, and I really missed having a pool,” Scales says. “So I used to get a kiddie pool every summer.”

Even in normal times, a stock tank can be hard to find, Scales says. Hers cost about $200 and took some serious shopping. She spent about $500 on the whole thing, including landscaping.

Leveling the yard is key, she says.

“I flattened the spot, drilled the holes and did all the things,” she says. “I have thoroughly enjoyed it.”

The pool is low maintenance. She runs the filter once a day and uses a net to scoop out debris. She adds chlorine and has a kit to test pH levels, just like any pool.

When warm weather returned this year, all it required was a fill up.

She says she could never afford an in-ground pool, but the mini pool is perfect for her and her two longhaired weenie dogs, Cash and Sophia.

She’s saving up to build a deck.

“I am not a handy person or a DIY person,” she says. “The scariest part was drilling the holes because you can’t go back on that. But it’s a totally doable project for anyone.”

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The Concierge Therapist Presents…. Real Health in a Virtual World

By master clinician, educator, author, and mobile Occupational Therapist Emilia Bourland, OTR, ECHM

These days, more and more people are wondering “How do I keep from hurting while spending so much time on the computer?” With so many people socializing virtually and working from home at impromptu desks during COVID, it’s no wonder that painful necks, shoulders, and carpal tunnel are raging in our community! Need some good news?

The Concierge Therapist is here to help. Call today for a No-cost visit, and learn what you need to feel better. Don’t let pain in your neck, shoulders, arms, or hands stop you from enjoying the things you love, or doing what needs to be done.

Special offer: Want to learn how to set up your desk to prevent pain? REGISTER FOR A FREE webinar on ergonomic strategies for a “healthy desk.” Afterwards, you’ll have the opportunity to share creative solutions in the Healthy Desk challenge! First prize earns a FREE ergonomics assessment (For your whole house!).

To register call 469-998-1245 or visit www.theconciergetherapist.com/HealthyDesk

Photo courtesy of LaToya Scales.

Smoked lemonpepper hot wings

Use a two-zone charcoal grill, a backyard smoker or both, whatever can smoke at a low temperature (225-275 degrees) and also cook at high heat (350500 degrees).

The goal is to get a little smoke on them and bring them to a safe eating temp (160 degrees) and then crisp them up over direct coals or a hot flame. Season using the lemon-pepper and salt rub. Halfway through, pull the wings out and toss them in the wet rub. Return to the smoker for the remaining time.

DRY LEMON-PEPPER RUB (for 5 pounds of wings)

• ¼ cup whole black peppercorn

• Zest of five lemons

• Kosher salt

WET RUB

• 2 cups Louisiana-style hot sauce (Texas Pete, Crystal or Louisiana Hot Sauce)

• 2 cups unsalted butter

DIRECTIONS

Set oven to 200 degrees. Grind peppercorns and combine with the lemon zest. Place mix on a parchment paper-lined sheet pan and bake for 1 hour. Pulse dry lemon-pepper mix in a spice grinder to a fine sand-like texture. Set aside.

Combine wet rub ingredients in a small saucepan over medium heat and let butter, stirring frequently. Remove from heat and set aside.

Pat wings dry and season liberally with kosher salt on both sides. Use a spice shaker to apply the dry lemonpepper rub evenly on both sides.

MASTER THE GRILL

Brandon Mohon is a grill master from way back.

When he met his wife, chef Lisa Martel Mohon, he took things up a notch. Inspired by Franklin’s BBQ in Austin, he bought a trailersize smoker and started Mohon Barbecue, which does pop-ups and catering. The Mohons lent their smoker to Petra and the Beast chef

Misti Norris, who put smoked potatoes on the menu. That gave Lisa an idea. “This is the potato salad I always make, but with smoked potatoes,” she says. “Normally I roast the potatoes in the oven.” She also uses Mohon Barbecue smoked bacon. Find the smoked potato salad recipe at oakcliff.advocatemag.com.

Prepare your two-zone grill using lump charcoal or wood logs. Maintain a temperature between 225-275 degrees. Replenish coals as needed. Place chicken wings on grate. Cook for 20-30 minutes, turning once.

Remove and toss wings in the wet rub, and return to the indirect heat for 20-30 minutes.

Move wings to high direct heat (350-500 degrees) until skin is crisp and meat is tender, 5-15 minutes.

Above: Brandon Mohon putting wings on the smoker. Top: Marissa Mata, right, and her niece Nicole Mata chill by the pool.

MAKE YOUR OWN MOJITOS

Bar manager Heather Poile designed the cocktail menu for Bourbon & Banter, a Downtown bar that closed after the pandemic hit. The Oak Cliff resident has also worked at Stock & Barrel and Bbbop. This is her recipe for a classic mojito.

mojitos

INGREDIENTS

• 3/4 ounce simple syrup

• 3/4 ounce lime juice

• 2 ounces white rum

• Handful of mint leaves

• Soda

DIRECTIONS

Shake with ice in a Mason jar or shaker tin. Pour without straining into a tall glass, top with soda and garnish with a bundle of sprigs of mint and lime wheel.

Tip:

DEBRIS-FREE MOJITO: Strain into fresh ice after shaking.

SIMPLE SYRUP: Mix equal parts hot water and white sugar.

FEELING ADVENTUROUS?

Add 1/4-1/2 ounces of Aperol to the mix. That will add some orange flavor and new life to a classic. Call it “mojito Italiano.”

Mint grows really well in our climate, so stick some in the ground and never run out.

“I always suggest squeezing your own lime juice for ultimate freshness, but you can buy it too. Central Market sells half gallons in the refrigerated section.”

— Heather Poile

FAMILY TRADITION

THESE RESTAURATEURS ARE BUILDING ON THEIR LEGACY

Some people never figure out the career that’s right for them. For these young entrepreneurs, it’s in their DNA.

SMOKEY JOHN’S BAR-B-QUE

Juan Reaves started working at his dad’s restaurant, Smokey John’s, bussing tables and filling water glasses, in the summer after fourth grade.

He earned enough money to buy a 10-speed bike, and he got to see The Jacksons at Reunion Arena when every employee was given two tickets to the July 11, 1981, concert. His dad, “Smokey” John Reaves, was a buddy of the band’s tour manager.

Juan’s younger brother, Brent, started keeping customers’ tea glasses filled about seven summers later because he wanted to earn quarters in tips for the tabletop Pac-Man.

The brothers, who grew up in Oak Cliff and graduated from Bishop Dunne Catholic School, started running the business in partnership with their dad in 2013.

They have taken it through the fire, literally. The restaurant near Love Field was closed for 16 months after a September 2017 blaze gutted the place.

They reopened in January 2019, and just eight months later, their father died at age 74.

John Reaves opened his original restaurant in 1977 and later became the second Black operator

at the State Fair of Texas. He opened Smokey John’s in the early ’80s with the help of businessman Pete Schenkel. Reaves later helped his friend and investor Ruth Hauntz open a booth, Ruth’s Tamales. Now there are two Ruth’s and four Smokey John’s at the fair.

The same week they lost their dad, Juan and Brent Reaves won a Big Tex Choice Award for their Big Red Chicken Bread — a fried chicken wing wearing sunglasses sitting atop a red soda-flavored donut. Their creative team also won for Hauntz’s Stuffed Fried Mexi Cone, a barbacoa taco cone. Those were their first Big Tex awards since fried Jell-O in 2016. The fire gave them an opportunity to crystallize their identity.

“We started going to barbecue places all over Texas to give us an idea of the style that we wanted and to define ourselves,” Brent says.

Smokey John’s does great barbecue, but they’re also good at country cooking and soul food. They knew they wanted to keep that part of the concept and found that Smokey John’s is its own thing. They began working on plans to franchise.

While those plans are on hold because of the pandemic, Juan and Brent Reaves are continuing their father’s legacy by taking the time to connect

Story by RACHEL STONE | Photography by DANNY FULGENCIO

with people. They go live on Facebook at about 7:15 p.m. every weeknight, starting with “motivation Monday,” then “talk-to-us Tuesday” and the like. They started giving away prizes during trivia Wednesday, and they ham it up for hundreds of viewers over discussions of peach vs. blackberry cobbler and setting and achieving goals.

“It’s a modern way of continuing my dad’s legacy,” Juan says.

Their dad had a larger-than-life personality and had relationships with Dallas Cowboys players. His bygone restaurant on U.S. Highway 67 at Polk opened in partnership with Oak Cliff native and All-Pro Cowboys player Harvey Martin. The eatery was called Harvey Martin’s Smokey John’s, and should-be hall-of-famer Drew Pearson was an investor. The family is still close with the Cowboys’ founding family, the Murchisons.

Before their dad died, Juan and Brent Reaves had no idea how many close friendships he had. The elder Reaves had a habit of praying with people over any problem they had for seven days, and no fewer than 30 people called him their best friend.

Before his sons took it over, Reaves ran the restaurant with his wife, Gloria “Mama” Reaves, who died in 2010. His cousin, Douglas “Rent” Spradlin, was the Smokey John’s pitmaster for 30 years before his death in 2011.

Juan and Brent also have a sister, Yulisa Reaves Waters, who grew up working in the

restaurant and is now a lawyer.

Juan Reaves has kids who are 14 and 9, and his son started working at Smokey John’s to pay for a high-end baseball bat.

“We’re finishing what dad started,” Juan says. “It’s exciting for us to take what he had and build on that. It’s all coming together for us now.”

Left: A collage of customers and friends from the early days of Smokey John’s. Right: The Reaves brothers’ first Big Tex Choice Award, for fried Jell-O in 2016.

Right: A photo of John Reaves serving Ruth Hauntz at Smokey John’s in the 1970s.

HALL’S HONEY FRIED CHICKEN

Mackenzie Hall never thought she would go into the family business.

The 25-year-old is the greatgranddaughter of Herman Henderson, whose original Chicken Shack restaurant opened downtown in 1948. Henderson’s Chicken grew to include several locations, and another branch of the family still operates the chain.

Mackenzie’s dad, John Hall, was given permission to use the original Henderson’s recipe for his own restaurant, which opened in 1989.

“When I was younger I was like, ‘This would be fun.’ But as I got older, my interests changed,” Mackenzie says. “I watched my dad do it, and I thought, ‘This is really hard. I don’t want to work in food or the service industry.’”

She graduated from the University of Tulsa with a degree in business administration and management in 2016 and got a job as an administrative assistant at the University of Texas at Dallas. She wasn’t happy with the work, and the commute from Desoto to Richardson was making her miserable.

“I ultimately reached out to my dad and told him, ‘I’m quitting my job, so you can either hire me, or I can find something else, but I am quitting this job,’” she says.

She had already been helping her dad on weekends at his Hall’s Honey Fried Chicken, which was in Duncanville at the time. It recently moved back to its longtime location on Camp Wisdom in Red Bird.

She learned the administrative side of the business and brought the payroll in house. The store had no online presence, and her dad had never done any marketing, relying on word-of-mouth from the beginning.

“Initially, when I said I was going to work for him, it was going to be for a year, and then I just took off with it,” she says. “I ended up liking it more than I thought I would, and I was good at it. So that was kind of cool.”

They opened a second Hall’s Honey Fried Chicken on Medical District Drive last year with Mackenzie as the owner and operator.

She was right. It is hard.

“I work every day of the week because in a sense, I’m always on call,” she says. “If someone calls in, I have to get dressed and go into work. It’s happened on many occasions.”

Hall’s still uses her great-grandfather’s recipe, which has no seasoning salt. By the way, the “honey” in their name refers to the color of the chicken. There’s nothing sweet in it.

Memories of her family’s original location on Thomas and Hall streets come up all the time.

“I never knew Herman Henderson. He died before I was born. I never knew his son, my uncle, who died before I was born,” she says. “But people come in here to this day and say, ‘We used to eat there, and this tastes just like it.’ I think that’s so cool. It feels so far in the past, but it really wasn’t.”

Top: Hall’s Honey Fried Chicken founder John Hall and his dauther, Mackenzie Hall, who joined the family business after college and now owns her own restaurant.

Mariel and Marco Street’s dad always told them not to go into the restaurant business.

Gene Street Sr. was immensely successful in business but married and divorced four times in the course of starting and running food-and-beverage empires, including the Black Eyed Pea, Good Eats and Consolidated Restaurant Cos., which owns

El Chico, among other brands.

So the two middle Street children went their own ways. Mariel joined the Peace Corps after graduating from the University of Texas at Austin. Marco graduated from Booker T. Washington High School for the Performing and Visual Arts and skipped college to pursue a career in music.

However, the pull of their legacy was strong. They now own

Left: Mariel and Marco Street are siblings, business partners and across-the-street neighbors. Top: Mariel and Marco as children. Above: Phil Cobb and Gene Street, the founders of Black Eyed Pea restaurants.

“We love working together, and I just feel

so

lucky.”

LIBERTY BURGER AND STREET’S FINE CHICKEN

Liberty Burger, which has six locations, and Streets Fine Chicken, which has two. They recently opened Roy G’s, a restaurant and bar in Oak Lawn.

They also live across the street from each other with their wives and babies, who were born eight months apart, in Kings Highway.

Mariel wanted to start a food truck in Austin after the Peace Corps, and she brought the idea to her two older brothers, Gene and Dace, who owned Snookie’s Bar & Grill. They didn’t buy it.

“They were like, OK, hippie,” she says.

But she didn’t give up, and a friend helped her with a business and marketing plan. This time, her brothers were in, and they agreed to turn Snookie’s into the first Liberty Burger. That was in 2011, and they opened new stores every year for the following four years.

Meanwhile, Marco was living in a recording studio that he built with friends in a warehouse that his dad owned. After six years, that life was becoming too lonely, and Mariel convinced him to come on board and run the Liberty Burger she was opening in Lakewood.

“Working with family, especially in a business like this, doesn’t always work out,” Marco says. “We love working together, and I just feel so lucky.”

They wanted to do a chicken concept, and in 2017, they opened Streets Fine Chicken in the old Black Eyed Pea building on Cedar Springs.

“It keeps looping around to things dad touched,” Mariel says.

The elder Gene Street borrowed $5,000 from his aunt and partnered with Phil Cobb to start his first bar, J. Alfred’s, where Al Biernat’s is on Oak Lawn.

Street and Cobb also owned a honky-tonk on Cedar Springs called Faces, where Willie Nelson and Ray Wylie Hubbard used to play.

Mariel and Marco opened their new restaurant and bar, Roy G’s, in the same space last year.

“The neighborhood is so fun,” Mariel says. “They’ve really welcomed us.”

Their dad, who is sort of retired and has lived in the same Preston Hollow house since they were kids, complains that Roy G’s isn’t “scalable” like Liberty Burger and the Black Eyed Pea. But it’s not meant to be.

“It has more soul,” Mariel says. “It’s specifically for that neighborhood.”

This generation of Streets is more interested in quality of life than making bank.

The siblings have thought about opening a restaurant in Oak Cliff in a similar vein, something that’s just for our neighborhood, but the right location hasn’t come along.

Marco started hosting “Streetsgiving” at his house about five years ago, and they’ve managed to get the whole family, all five siblings, ex wives and everyone, at least once. And because they have the original recipes, they did a Black Eyed Pea takeover a few years ago at the Streets on Cedar Springs with their dad and Cobb greeting guests and the children and grandchildren waiting tables and cooking. All the proceeds went to the Resource Center, and they plan to do it again sometime.

WORSHIP

By SCOTT SHIRLEY

Dear white people: sit down

Allowing ourselves to be led through anti-racism

Ihave bad news for white people: There is nothing you can do to make up for the treatment of Black people in the United States. This does not excuse us from responsibility or consign us to hopelessness. Rather, it invites us to mindfulness and humility.

We are accustomed to getting things done, to having our will enacted in the world. We are heard. Our views count. They shape policy. Which makes us wonder why we can’t simply will racism away.

Part of the problem is the enormity of the evil. White people kidnapped Black people, sailed them across the ocean, and held them captive in torture for 400 years. Black people were treated like livestock, bred and sold and butchered. Since the end of slavery, we have taken every opportunity to undermine the advancement of Black people from Jim Crow to mass incarceration, from redlining to voter suppression. There are continuing inequities in the basics of life, such as health care, education, housing, law enforcement, and employment. There is no fair price for this sin.

That is what white people would like: a price tag. The discussion around reparations proves we won’t want to pay it, but we constantly ask what we can do, how we can earn forgiveness, how we can all just move on.

In the Christian tradition, the end of the cycle of repentance is redemption, recompense, and reconciliation. These economic and relational terms suggest a righting of wrongs, a restoration of justice and peace. Unfortunately, there can be no restoration because there has never been a condition of justice and peace between Black and white people in the United States. There is no primal condition to which we might return.

White people can’t just fix it. That is not a situation we enjoy. As white Christians, it means that our models of sin and forgiveness – for many, the core of our faith – are impotent just when they are needed most. Fortunately, our

tradition is broad and may contain other tools that can help.

As we negotiate race relations once again in this country, it is important for white people to listen with patience and humility, to allow ourselves to be led by Black people. That is uncomfortable territory for many of us. I recommend you sit with that. And I mean literally sit.

A round of centering prayer is called a “sit.” Like contemplative prayer in other traditions, we just sit quietly for a long time. In doing so, we learn to listen to ourselves, our soul and God. At first, it is hard to quiet our minds. Thoughts and feelings flit about trying to draw our attention. But we learn to breathe, to acknowledge and accept the thoughts and feelings so that we can let them go. In doing so, we learn patience and humility. We learn to wait and listen, to allow ourselves to be led rather than take charge. This is what Black people most need from us right now.

If there is a solution to the racial divide in America, it won’t come from white people. And it won’t be what white people want or expect. It won’t be modeled on something white people already know. Instead, it will have to be something new, something that white people can’t imagine without placing ourselves at the center of it. It will come out of the experience and the ingenuity of Black people.

Our task, then, is to wait with patience and humility for things to emerge, to allow ourselves to be led. Until then, sit down. This is not an attack or a rebuff of our concern. It is not asking us to do nothing. Rather, it is an active waiting, developing readiness to support. It is an invitation to a new possibility, a hope for what is now unseen.

Scott Shirley is the pastor of Church in the Cliff. The Worship section is underwritten by Advocate Publishing and the neighborhood businesses and churches listed here. For information about helping support the Worship section, call 214.560.4202.

WORSHIP

BAPTIST

CLIFF TEMPLE BAPTIST CHURCH / 125 Sunset Ave. / 214.942.8601

Serving Oak Cliff since 1898 / CliffTemple.org / English and Spanish

9 am Contemporary Worship / 10 am Sunday School / 11 am Traditional

GRACE TEMPLE BAPTIST Come to a Place of Grace!

Sunday Worship: English Service 9:30am / Spanish Service 11:00am 831 W. Tenth St. / 214.948.7587 / gracetempledallas.org

CATHOLIC

ST. CECILIA CATHOLIC PARISH StCeciliaDallas.org / 1809 W Davis St. M-F masses at 8am in English and 5:30pm in Spanish

DISCIPLES OF CHRIST

EAST DALLAS CHRISTIAN CHURCH / 629 N. Peak Street / 214.824.8185

Sunday School 9:30 am / Worship 8:30 am - Chapel

10:50 am - Sanctuary / Rev. Deborah Morgan-Stokes / edcc.org

EPISCOPAL

CHRIST EPISCOPAL CHURCH / ChristChurchDallas.org

Sunday School: 11:15am /Mass: 9am & 10am English, 12:30pm Español

Wednesday Mass: 6pm English, 8pm Español / 534 W. Tenth Street

METHODIST

KESSLER PARK UMC / 1215 Turner Ave./ 214.942.0098 I kpumc.org

10:30am Sunday School/11:00 Worship /All welcome regardless of reed, cr eed, color, culture, gender or sexual identity.

NON-DENOMINATIONAL

KESSLER COMMUNITY CHURCH / 2100 Leander Dr. at Hampton Rd. “Your Hometown Church Near the Heart of the City.”

10:30 am Contemporary Service / kesslercommunitychurch.com

TRINITY CHURCH OAK CLIFF / Love God. Love Others. Make Disciples. Sundays 10:00 am / Worship & children’s Sunday School 1139 Turner Ave. / trinitychurchoakcliff.org

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PARK CITIES PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH/ 4124 Oak Lawn Ave Sunday Worship 9:00 & 11:00 A.M.

To all this church opens wide her doors - pcpc.org

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