Will this be the summer your story starts? Remember the comfort of your childhood home—the cozy corners, the familiar smells, the confidence of knowing you had somewhere you belonged? Now it’s your turn to create that sense of home, not just for yourself, but for your future. Whether it’s a backyard for weekend hangs or a living room full of sunlight and morning coffee, your next home is waiting.
The decor in Las Brasas in Lowest Greenville features three brightly painted hummingbirds, including this one on the wall behind the bar. Read more on page 18. Photography by Jessica Turner.
Senior Art Director: Jynnette Neal jneal@advocatemag.com
Creative Director/Photographer: Lauren Allen lallen@advocatemag.com
Contributors: Patti Vinson, Carol Toler, Sam Gillespie
Interns: Katharine Bales, Elizabeth Truelove, Presley Pate
Contributing photographers: Kathy Tran, Yuvie Styles, Victoria Gomez, Amani Sodiq, Rae Overman, Cat Iler, Jenni Cholula, Austin Gibbs, Ethan Good, Tanner Garza, Gabriel Cano, Brandon Gonzalez, Jessica Turner
Advocate (c) 2024 is published monthly in print and daily online by Advocate Media - Dallas Inc., a 501(c)3 non-profit corporation based in Dallas and first published in 1991. Contents of this print magazine may not be reproduced. Advertisers and advertising agencies assume liability for the content of all advertisements and sponsorships printed, and therefore assume responsibility for any and all claims against the Advocate. The Publisher reserves the right to accept or reject ay editorial, advertising or sponsorship material in print or online. Opinions set forth in Advocate publications are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the Publisher’s viewpoint. More than 180,000 people read Advocate publications in print each month; Advocate online publications receive more than 4 million pageviews monthly. Advertising rates and guidelines are available upon request. Advocate print and online publications are available free of charge throughout our neighborhoods, one print copy per reader. For information about supporting our non-profit mission of providing local news to neighborhood readers, please call 214-5604212 or email aquintero@advocatemag.com.
resources help those with dementia — and their loved ones — experience dignity as well as care
EVERYONE AGREES: Dementia affects more than just the person who has it. Family members are impacted, too — particularly daily caregivers.
The good news: “Patient-care options and family-support resources are constantly evolving,” says Nicole Gann, CEO of Juliette Fowler Communities.
“At Fowler, our team understands how to set families up for success in navigating age-related cognitive changes.”
Fowler is also homebase to the Dallas chapter of Dementia Friendly America, a national initiative.
“With Dementia Friendly, which began a few years ago, we’ve had great success increasing the flow of information about dementia to the public. Fowler trained 60 ‘Dementia Friends’ the first year; last year, 400 were trained. And we have already trained more than 400 in the early part of 2025,” Gann says.
Trained “Dementia Friends” are empowered to empathize with those affected by dementia, to meet them where they are, and to be helpful in public spaces. By providing Dementia Friendly training in churches, hospitals and organizations such as the Junior League of Dallas, Fowler helps Dallasites recognize early signs of dementia in others and raise awareness.
“We support the person and their caregivers; a person with dementia can be happy if wellcared-for, but it’s simultaneously hard for family members to perceive they are losing their person. We set them up for the best success possible,” Gann says.
Currently, Fowler has 20 memory support apartments, with 19 more opening this summer.
As a neighborhood resource, Fowler is set up to accommodate early stages of dementia in every residential program on campus, helping residents stay in independent living environments longer. In Fowler’s higher level of assisted-living care, additional and more personalized services are included, and staff is always hands-on and involved.
CELEBRATING
opportunities, gaming, interactive and AI-led features, along with therapeutic art and stressrelieving activities that engage mind and body,” Gann says.
the same techniques as Fowler’s “I’m Still Here” residential program.
With Fowler’s options enabling impacted neighbors to stay in their own homes longer and helping provide a break to family care-providers, families will be able to navigate dementia in
“We are committed to implementing cuttingedge dementia initiatives. Everyone knows at least one person with dementia, and in any stage of the disease, there are different needs: day help, longterm memory support, and everything in between.”
The BEAUTY of Fowler Communities
Fowler’s adult day support program centered on dementia will open in 2026, utilizing
Fowler mirrors the creative energy of East Dallas and offers affordability for most budgets See why your neighbors have been
Check into Juliette Fowler Communities’ dementia support solutions today: Visit fowlercommunities.org or call 214-827-0813. For more information about Dementia Friendly Dallas or to sign up to become a Dementia Friend, visit dfdallas.org.
Ease your mind by visiting Fowlercommunities. org today and call 214-827-0813 to take a free campus tour.
INTRODUCTIONS
Taqueria El Arquito — a restaurant serving up TexMex classics in Deep Ellum that opened in June 2025
Stoner’s Pizza Joint — opened on Fitzhugh Avenue in 2025
Molino Ol ō y ō — a Mexican eatery that is expected to open in Old East Dallas next year
Kappo Tatsu — offspring of the Michelin-starred Japanese restaurant Tatsu that is expected to open later in 2025
Palma and Ghost Donkey — a restaurant offering dinner, drinks and brunch plus a tequila and mezcal bar in Deep Ellum opened in May 2025
Pine Isle — cashless Hawaiian takeout restaurant that opened on Fitzhugh Avenue in spring 2025
Trinity Cider and Picadera — a spot offering hard cider and Dominican food in Deep Ellum that opened in January 2025
FAREWELLS
CheapSteaks — a Deep Ellum steakhouse, bar and music venue that closed in June 2025
Pizzeria Testa — authentic Neapolitan pizza parlor and Italian restaurant on Lower Greenville Avenue that closed in June 2025
Niwa Japanese BBQ — grilled meat and veggies at the table in Deep Ellum that closed in June 2025
Miznon — Mediterranean restaurant in Deep Ellum that closed in April 2025
Hypnotic Donuts & Biscuits — home of creative donuts and chicken biscuits in the White Rock Shopping Center that closed in May 2025
Hong Kong Restaurant — Chinese restaurant in the White Rock Shopping Center that closed May 2025
Bangkok at Greenville — Thai restaurant that closed in June 2025 on Upper Greenville Avenue
Knife — steakhouse in the The Highland Dallas hotel that is scheduled to close at the end of August
14 NEIGHBORS’ FOODIE RECOMMENDATIONS
sourced from Facebook
Molly Mandell : Crack fried chicken sandwich, pizza poppers or fried ravioli at Greenville Avenue Pizza Company. GAPCo are unsung heroes.
Alan Short: Prego Pasta House on Greenville Avenue has an offmenu chicken fried steak that is not only enormous, it’s delicious! They butterfly a New York strip and then pound that out and batter it. It’s served with cottage fries and a big ol’ bowl of cream gravy. Being an Italian food restaurant, you wouldn’t think they would serve such a dish, but there it is!
Amanda Campbell: Vegetarian rib at Hello Dumpling! All the boba teas are non-dairy milk, the special dumplings are always delish and gotta grab something green like cold cucumbers to munch on too!
Moon McKinney: Liberty Burger has a secret item … they never offer it, nor can you find it in the online menu. Loaded sidewinders, bacon, cheese fries.
Russell Birk: The pan-seared salmon at Maya’s Modern Mediterranean! When it comes to off-menu, the half salad is available but not listed. The salads are so big that even a half salad is plenty.
Amanda Robinson Quicksall: Spicy tonkotsu ramen at WAYA Japanese Izakaya. It’s freaking amazing.
Amy Ball Wilk: The migas at The Heights with the house-made corn tortillas. Sooo good!
Molly Bewley: Pupusas and tacos from La Pasadita 2 at Lakeland and Ferguson. The best! We crave them often.
Jen Amorella-McKimmey: Goodfriend. Best burger in town!
Lena Lewis: E Bar, E bar queso and stuffed jalapeños.
Lisa Braach: The Maverick at Burger Schmurger.
Celeste DeLorge Flippen: Ariana’s mantu. Deliciously authentic according to my Afghan native friends.
Diana Lindley Dubois: The mussels at The Heights (my fav in Dallas) and the fact that you can order a half Caesar salad (and who knows what else).
Carol Bell-Walton: The gyro omelette at John’s. The Lakewood pizza at My Family’s Pizza. The root beer at the Dairy-ette. The fried shrimp at Bucky Moonshines (Deep Ellum is east of 75). The beef cheeks at Garden Cafe.The artichoke and preserved lemon linguine at Cock and Bull The Gouda cheese grits at McRae’s American Bistro and Cocktails. The Cuban at Jimmy’s This is making me hungry!
Jack in the Box gets a facelift
Story by MADELYN EDWARDS
Lakewood Jack in the Box fans, it may take a while for you to resume picking up the fast food chain’s signature tacos, stuffed jalapeños and Sourdough Jack sandwiches. Jack in the Box on Gaston Avenue is getting a facelift.
Most of the fast-food restaurant’s structure was torn down. The drive-thru is expected to be covered to protect customers from inclement weather.
“We’ve been blessed to have amazing customers and employees within the area,” says Yasin Choudry, operations director for Tribox (the company that owns the store and collaborates with Jack in the Box).
“With this renovation at Jack, we are hoping to continue our long standing relationship with the Lakewood community for decades to come.”
The construction started this summer. It would be ideal if the work could get done in 90 days, but Choudry suspects that it will take longer. The timeline is dependent on the weather and the supply chain, the latter of which has been affected by tariffs that have hampered access to equipment for the project. When the work is finished, the store’s leaders will have to comply with the City of Dallas rules before opening and get fully staffed. In all, the process may take
about four months before Jack in the Box opens again.
That Jack in Box in our neighborhood has been there since the late 1960s, says Chris Aslam, one of Tribox’s owners.
“Out of all of our restaurants, this is the one I hear the most stories from people, growing up in the neighborhood, how they went there when they were younger,” as well as visiting the Jack in the Box late at night, Aslam says.
“There’s a lot of history into the community around the store.”
The first Jack in the Box opened in San Diego in 1951, so next year will be the fast-food chain’s 75th anniversary. The Lakewood store will be celebrating this milestone when it reopens with a little nostalgia.
“Back in the day, we used to have an old clown head that you could talk to on the menu boards, and it was kind of sitting on the box menu, and we actually have one of the old ones, original ones from the store,” Aslam says. “We’re working on seeing if we can open up with that original.”
The first day or two after reopening may also feature “throwback prices” on food, so customers can have an idea on how much people paid for Jack in the Box meals in the 1960s.
permitting pandemonium
After long post-COVID wait times, the City of Dallas has made strides in commercial permitting
Story by AUSTIN WOOD
In 2022, Colorado-based fried chicken chain Birdcall announced plans to move into Lakeridge Village on the former site of the demolished Chase Bank building. In early 2025, after unsuccessfully filing two sets of commercial build permits, the center listed suite #100 as available for lease, signalling the end of the ill-fated project.
Wait times for commercial construction permits became a conspicuous issue in Dallas following the pandemic. In 2021, the median wait time for a commercial construction permit in the City of Dallas exceeded 300 days. Permit tracking, software issues and staffing shortages drove the
The Dallas Morning News reported in 2022, although a City permitting department statement to the Advocate stated, “Dallas’ inspection staff did not significantly change during the years 2019 to 2022.”
Streamlined workflow and enhanced coordination were major objectives listed by Dallas Manager Kimberly Bizor Tolbert in a June 21, 2024 memo announcing the merger of the Department of Development Services and the Department of Planning and Urban Design.
“This new department will house all land use and permitting functions in one organization, combine zoning implementation and interpretation teams, restructure the permitting function to provide clearer ownership and accountable service
excellence,” she wrote in the memo.
The new department launched a publicly accessible online permitting dashboard with updated data on commercial permit turnaround times shortly after.
In a memo from Nov. 1, Tolbert touted a median issuance time of 114 days for commercial building permits, a far cry from the average wait of close to a year seen in 2021. The jump was aided by the department’s closing of “stale permits,” or applications that have been inactive for more than 180 days without follow-up by the applicant. Of over 10,000 stale permits identified in a review process beginning in September, only 200 remained by its conclusion, according to a statement from the department.
Another major initiative designed to improve the permitting process came in May with the launch of DallasNow, the department’s new online software which houses permitting, planning, platting, inspections and engineering in a single integrated system. Online inspections have also been introduced to accelerate initial timelines.
While it appears progress has been made, the department’s dashboard shows an increased median turnaround time of 184 days for commercial building permits in 2025. The dashboard has not been updated since February. That month, that number jumped to 218 days, although the dashboard attributes 75% of the delays to applicants.
THE HEART(WORM) WANTS WHAT IT WANTS
SUMMER MAY BE WINDING DOWN, but in Lakewood, the bugs are still hanging around. Mosquitoes don’t give up easily, and with them comes the risk of heartworm.
Heartworm is a serious parasite that can settle in your pet’s heart and lungs. If left untreated, it can cause real damage. Dogs are most at risk, but cats aren’t immune. Their symptoms are just harder to spot.
The good news is it’s easy to prevent. A simple monthly medication can keep heartworm from ever taking hold. It’s smart to stay consistent, even as the temperature drops.
A FEW WAYS TO PROTECT YOUR PET:
• Clear out standing water where mosquitoes breed
• Avoid walks at dawn and dusk when mosquitoes are most active
• Stay on track with monthly preventatives
At Modern Animal Lakewood, we’re here to help you keep your pets healthy, happy, and heartworm-free all year long. Have questions or ready to set up a test or prevention consult? We’re here for that too.
Book anytime at modernanimal.com or in the Modern Animal app.
Use code ADVOCATE for a free Standard Access Membership, including your first vet exam free and a year of 24/7 Telemedicine with Modern Animal.
Let’s keep your pets protected through all seasons!
— Dr. Dammicci, Lead Doctor at Modern Animal Lakewood
Modern Animal
6465 E. Mockingbird Lane #310 469.373.9338 modernanimal.com
COUNTRY SINGER, TAKE ME HOME
Casa Linda restaurant Be Home Soon is singersongwriter Madison King’s new stage
Story by MADELYN EDWARDS
Photography by TANNER GARZA
Madison King stands by the purple wall in her restaurant, which features art sourced from her family and friends.
When Madison King crooned, “Nobody wants to take chances anymore” on her 2014 album, she most certainly wasn’t talking about herself.
The Casa View neighbor will tell you that she’s been lucky to have “followed (her) whims” — being a country music singer-songwriter and a chef.
The 38-year-old Lake Highlands native started playing guitar at age 8, writing songs as a teenager and performing around age 19 or 20. She released a few records, but eventually, it became clear that King wouldn’t make it to the music big leagues without moving to Nashville or going viral on YouTube, and she was not interested in either of those options.
So, she taught herself how to cook. She began working at the private supper club Frank Underground in 2017 and launched MunchBox (customizable snack boards) in 2022. Her music career had always been accompanied by service work, including at Capitol Pub, City Tavern and Twilite Lounge.
Last November, she did something she’s wanted to do for a long time — open up her own restaurant called Be Home Soon in Casa Linda Plaza, which King referred to as her “dream spot” because of its size and distance from her residence.
King co-owns the eatery with her business partner and accounting mastermind Russ Kirk. She operates the kitchen with fellow chef Joey Fink, and her longtime friend Pablo Rivera runs the front of the house.
The menu is divided between snacks, lunch, dinner, brunch and drinks, and the main courses are updated week ly. You can order snacks and drinks throughout Be Home Soon’s operating hours, but lunch is only served between 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. Likewise, you can only get dinner from 5 to 9 p.m.
The offerings are pragmatic. Snacks are variations on chips and dip — kettle chips and onion dip, crudite and green god dess, and focaccia and garlic hummus, all $9. The drinks menu encompasses familiar cocktails as well as beer, wine and sodas. Salads are available for lunch and dinner, and the former’s menu includes sandwiches. The Sunday brunch menu dances between sweet and savory flavors with chocolate chip focaccia French toast listed alongside buttermilk biscuits and gravy.
The design inside Be Home Soon is striking. At the entryway, there’s a peachy partial wall with retro decorative concrete blocks and a pale blue cityscape mural in the dining room. Accents of royal purple adorn chairs and the wall, which has various pieces of art hanging from it, leading to the bathrooms.
Who would create a restaurant with such a funky aura? Madison King, of course. The singer-songwriter-turned-restaurateur recently told us about her vision.
WHAT
WAS
YOUR INSPIRATION
FOR
THE VIBE
IN BE HOME SOON AS WELL AS THE FOOD ON THE MENU?
Well, I kept saying that I wanted it to feel like a 24-hour diner in 1970s Tokyo, and I feel like it does, which I love. It was all about being an inclusive space where everyone feels welcome, where you feel like you’re walking into somebody’s house when you walk in the door, and you’re welcome there. We don’t want it to feel stuffy. That is very much my philosophy. I always like to try to make people feel good, not try to impress because if they feel good, they will be impressed.
WHY CHANGE THE MENU ON A WEEKLY BASIS, AND WHAT INSPIRES THOSE CHANGES?
We have our outline, and then we fill it with different items. So at dinner, it’s kind of like going to dinner at someone’s house. This is what we’re serving. Every week, there’s two mains, four sides and dessert, and then the cornbread, or our bread du jour changes. You don’t have to make decisions. You should just get everything or three of the five things or whatever. This is what to expect, but you really have to come in just kind of being willing to play a little bit.
TELL ME ABOUT THE MURAL AND THE PICTURES ON THE PURPLE WALL. WHAT MADE THESE IMAGES COME TOGETHER?
In contrast, dinner is more varied. You can get a poached chicken vermicelli bowl with a house egg roll in one week and BBQ pork ribs the next week.
So, the purple wall is really a collection of all of us. We all brought stuff up here — me, Russ, Pablo, Joey, my mom, friends. A lot of it came from thrift stores. Eventually, we want to kind of cycle some stuff around. It took me a minute to convince Russ to give me my purple.
When I was scheming with Brittany (Pickle Schmitt of branding and design firm Pickle Schmitt Co.) about
the mural design, this was what it was. It was a cityscape because we were talking about a mural the whole time, and I’m like, “I want it to be like a cityscape, but with aliens instead of people. And maybe you kind of recognize different structure types from all over.” And I mean, she just made it up, and there it was. These aliens are our mascots now. They show up on all our branding. I feel like we’re all aliens.
I NOTICED THAT PRIDE PROGRESS FLAG STICKER IS POSTED BY THE FRONT DOOR. IS IT IMPORTANT FOR YOU TO MAKE THIS A QUEER FRIENDLY SPACE?
100%. I mean, half our staff is queer, and it’s very important to us. We’ve always worked at inclusive places. Twilite (Lounge) was always that for people. We eventually maybe want to expand and have a gay bar or something like that. That’s very much who we are.
SHIFTING INTO CULINARY FROM MUSIC, DO YOU DRAW EXPERIENCE FROM YOUR FORMER CAREER?
This is like being on tour. It’s not nearly as glamorous as it looks. It’s fun for an hour a day, and it makes you so tired and hungover. I’m not drinking right now, but yes, that’s why. We’re performing every night. This is our stage for all of us. It’s our home, and we care about the product we’re putting out. And it’s super similar. People are criticizing it. People are loving it. You’re building fans, and you’re pissing people off. It’s all of that. It’s very similar, similar enough to where I’m playing music again, and I’m probably gonna start performing again because it’s like working those same muscles.
IN A 2018 DALLAS OBSERVER PROFILE, YOU WERE TALKING ABOUT WORKING AT TWILITE LOUNGE AND PEOPLE ASKING YOU ABOUT YOUR MUSIC, AND YOU SEEMED LIKE YOU RESENTED THAT QUESTION. IS THAT STILL SOMETHING THAT HAPPENS TODAY, OR DO YOU STILL FEEL THE SAME WAY ABOUT IT?
I love that now I’m known for this other thing that’s me now, and that feels really good that people know that I’m doing this thing, and it’s crazy, and we’re very honest about how hard it is, but it’s clearly super rewarding. And everywhere I go, people are proud of me, and they’ve watched my journey, and it’s really cool. I feel very, very fortunate.
This interview has been edited for clarity and brevity.
FIRED UP
Las Brasas combines traditional steakhouse fare with Mexican flavors
At Las Brasas, bone marrow is delivered to tables on a little grill in two halves that look about a foot long or less.
Story by MADELYN EDWARDS
TURNER
IF YOU DON’T KNOW HOW
to eat bone marrow properly, Gustavo De Los Rios can walk you through the process.
He and Dallas native Tim Goza opened the Mexican steakhouse Las Brasas in Lowest Greenville in March, and bone marrow, or tuétanos, is on the menu. It comes out on a little grill to your table, not too dissimilar to fajitas, in two halves that look about a foot long or less. Of course, the outer perimeter is hard, but the center of it is edible.
A long spoon is included, and Goza says some people stand the bone up on one end and slide the spoon down it to scrape out the bone marrow in one fell swoop. The order comes with a sauce traditionally made in a molcajete and tortillas, so you should put the bone marrow in the tortilla, squeeze lime over it and salt it before taking a bite. The bone marrow can be ordered as a shared plate ($15.99) or with the Brasas Sirloin Flap ($28.99) or rib eye steak ($32.99).
“It’s kind of buttery,” De Los Rios says. “It’s really, really good, so it’s very popular. But you have to tell the people, if they haven’t tried it, ‘You gotta eat it this way. Otherwise, you’re going to end up not liking it.’”
He’s not wrong. In a steak soft taco with cooked onions and mushrooms, the bone marrow adds just a hint more richness.
In 2014, Goza opened Palapas The Original Seafood Bar, which is next door to Las Brasas, and De Los Rios picked up a job there. De Los Rios has worked in the restaurant industry ever since he was young and living in Mexico. He continued this work when he immigrated to Dallas at age 25 in 1996.
“I got here, and then I ended up working every single
Photography by JESSICA
Brasas combines the country decor elements of a steakhouse with bold pops of color.
position that you can imagine, from being a dishwasher all the way to manager, assistant manager, even a DJ,” he says with a laugh.
De Los Rios corrected himself — he hadn’t worked on the expo line before Las Brasas.
“There’s always room for learning,” he says.
In contrast, Goza had a career in technology for decades before coming out of retirement to open Palapas. He says he’s always been fascinated with being in the food and beverage industry, though he didn’t quite know what he was getting himself into and had to learn things the hard way.
“I didn’t realize I was buying myself into a lifestyle change, and that’s really what the restaurant business is, but it’s been a lot of fun,” Goza says.
Before working at Palapas, De Los Rios had opened a restaurant in Crowley, but he eventually sold it when his commute from Mesquite became too much for him. Then, he joined Palapas as a “bartender/manager.” He turned down the chance to become the official manager, but he didn’t mind stepping into that role occasionally to help Goza.
De Los Rios worked there for a year and admired the Palapas concept of bringing Mexican flavors (specifically from Sinaloa on the country’s west coast) to seafood.
“They were the pioneers of that kind of seafood,” he says.
De Los Rios went on to open two East Dallas locations of Mami Coco, which made Yelp’s 2023 Top 100 Places to Eat in Texas list, the first on Bryan Street in 2018 and the second at the Samuell-Grand intersection in 2022.
Goza and De Los Rios stayed friends, and then they decided to work together on Las Brasas.
“I told him, ‘Hey, you were a pioneer. … Let’s be a pioneer
here with this Mexican steakhouse,’” De Los Rios says. “You’re going to see dishes here that you’re probably not going to see in a lot of places.”
Indeed, Las Brasas food sticks to some steakhouse traditions. Main courses are served with buttery garlic mashed potatoes, the grilled beef is juicy and flavorful, and you can order sweet cornbread for dessert. With the eatery’s name translating to “the embers” in Spanish, emphasis is placed on the selection of grilled meats — beef, pork and chicken.
Las Brasas looks like a chuckwagon steakhouse, complete with a wagon wheel on the patio, antlers hanging from the walls and saddles straddling planks above the bar. Except it’s more colorful. One of the walls inside is a blue shade somewhere between turquoise and robin egg, and light fixtures are red. There are three brightly painted hummingbirds, one inside on the wall behind the bar and in a mural on the patio, courtesy of De Los Rios’ wife Gaby.
De Los Rios says the restaurant is meant to resemble an old hacienda. The building itself is over 100 years old. Goza says it was formerly an auto mechanic shop, and everything other than the walls had to be rebuilt over the course of eight or nine months.
As with any restaurant, it’s important to get people in the door.
“When you come to a restaurant, the experience is what you remember,” he says. “If it has the vibe to it, and you have good food, then it gives you all the rhymes and reasons why you’re going to come back, and you’re going to tell all your friends, and that’s what we try to do.”
Las Brasas, 1418 Greenville Ave., 972.803.3616, senorbrasas.com
Las
FOOD & DRINK
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WINNER - UNREFINED BAKERY
2ND - LEILA BAKERY & CAFE
3RD - KEESH
BEST BAR
WINNER - THE OLD MONK
2ND - THE GOAT
3RD - LAKEWOOD LANDING
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WINNER - TERRY BLACK'S BBQ
WINNER - PECAN LODGE
2ND - ONE90 SMOKED MEATS
3RD - SMOKY ROSE
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WINNER - DREAM CAFE
2ND - JOHN'S CAFE
3RD - GOLDRUSH CAFE
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2ND - ASCENSION COFFEE - WHITE ROCK
3RD - COMPANY CAFE & BAR
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WINNER - RODEO GOAT
2ND - GOODFRIEND BEER GARDEN & BURGER
HOUSE
3RD - LIBERTY BURGER
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WINNER - ST. MARTIN'S WINE BISTRO
2ND - TERILLI'S RESTAURANT
3RD - KNIFE STEAKHOUSE
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WINNER - PALMER'S HOT CHICKEN
2ND - LUCKY'S HOT CHICKEN
3RD - CHICKEN HOUSE
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WINNER - HELLO DUMPLING
2ND - FORTUNE HOUSE
3RD - JIA ASIAN BISTRO (CLOSED)
BEST COCKTAILS
WINNER - LOUNGE HERE
2ND - THE BALCONY CLUB
3RD - MCRAE'S AMERICAN BISTRO & COCKTAILS
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WINNER - WHITE ROCK COFFEE
2ND - LDU COFFEE
3RD - EL PORTÓN COFFEE
BEST CRITICS CHOICE
WINNER - REVOLVER TACO LOUNGE
2ND - QUARTER ACRE
BEST DESSERTS
WINNER - SOCIETY BAKERY & TEA ROOM
2ND - EMPORIUM PIES
3RD - HUMBLE: SIMPLY GOOD PIES
BEST DONUT SHOP
WINNER - HYPNOTIC DONUTS (CLOSED)
2ND - JARAMS DONUTS
3RD - LAKEWOOD DONUT
BEST FROZEN TREATS
WINNER - TCBY
2ND - PARLOR'S HANDCRAFTED ICE CREAMS
3RD - BOTOLINO GELATO ARTIGIANALE
BEST HEALTHY BITE
WINNER - HG SPLY CO.
2ND - GARDEN CAFE
3RD - CRISP & GREEN
BEST ITALIAN FOOD
WINNER - TERILLI'S RESTAURANT
2ND - SCALINI'S PIZZA & PASTA
3RD - CANE ROSSO (TIE)
3RD - CAMPISI'S RESTAURANT- MOCKINGBIRD (TIE)
BEST JAPANESE/SUSHI
WINNER - SASA SUSHI
2ND - WAYA JAPANESE IZAKAYA
3RD - OISHII SUSHI & PAN-ASIAN
BEST LATIN
AMERICAN CUISINE
WINNER - GLORIA'S LATIN CUISINE
2ND - LA CALLE DOCE
3RD - LATIN DELI
BEST LUNCH SPOT
WINNER - HUDSON HOUSE
2ND - THE HEIGHTS
3RD - HG SPLY CO.
BEST MEDITERRANEAN
WINNER - MAYA'S MODERN MEDITERRANEAN
2ND - CAFE IZMIR
3RD - KOSTAS CAFE
BEST MEXICAN FOOD
WINNER - EL VECINO TEX MEX
2ND - E BAR TEX-MEX
3RD - MESOMAYA
BEST PATIO
WINNER - SMOKY ROSE
2ND - OZONA GRILL & BAR
3RD - GARDEN CAFE
BEST PIZZA
WINNER - SCALINI'S PIZZA & PASTA
2ND - CANE ROSSO
3RD - GREENVILLE AVANUE PIZZA COMPANY
BEST PLACE TO WATCH A GAME
WINNER - WHITE ROCK ALEHOUSE & BREWERY
2ND - MILO BUTTERFINGERS
3RD - THE POUR HOUSE
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WINNER - WABI HOUSE
2ND - M Ộ T HAI BA
3RD - HINODEYA RAMEN & BAR
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WINNER - HILLSIDE TAVERN
2ND - BENNY'S LAKEWOOD
3RD - ORIGINAL CHOPSHOP
BEST SEAFOOD
WINNER - HUDSON HOUSE
2ND - BIG SHUCKS SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & OYSTER BAR
3RD - LAKE HOUSE BAR AND GRILL (TIE)
3RD - AW SHUCKS SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & OYSTER BAR (TIE)
BEST TACOS
WINNER - TACO JOINT
2ND - TACOS LA BANQUETA
3RD - TACOS Y MAS
BEST THAI
WINNER - ROYAL THAI
2ND - GINGER THAI RESTAURANT
3RD - THAI THAI RESTAURANT
BEST WINE LIST
WINNER - TIMES TEN CELLARS
2ND - BODEGA WINE BAR
3RD - BARCELONA WINE BAR
Voting for Best of Shopping begins August 6. Shopping winners will be featured in our December issue. If you have any questions regarding Best of 2025, please email cbryan@advocatemag.com.
THE COMEBACK KIDS
Here’s how 3 East Dallas restaurants got their second wind
Story by MADELYN EDWARDS
“When one door closes another door opens; but we often look so long and so regretfully upon the closed door that we do not see the ones which open for us.”
— Alexander Graham Bell, telephone inventor
Establishments are always either opening or closing, but sometimes, they rise from the ashes. The ones that reopened have stories to tell.
ST. MARTIN’S
Scott Fickling and Phil Patterson opened St. Martin’s Wine Bistro in 1980 on Lower Greenville. Mohsen Heidari bought the French restaurant around 1997, but decided to close St. Martin’s in 2023 as the lease was coming to an end. His sons, Pasha and Sina Heidari, couldn’t accept that fate.
“I felt like it still had life to live,” Pasha says.
The brothers asked their father what his plans were with St. Martin’s after the closure. He didn’t have an answer, but they were open to finding one.
“We kind of meddled our way in,” Pasha says.
Their uncle Omid Haftlang suggested that the three of them take St. Martin’s to a new location. When the brothers ran this idea past their father, he said, “If you guys think you can do it better than me, go ahead.”
St. Martin’s was reborn in Old East Dallas on Bryan and North Peak Streets in 2024 in what used to be two antique shops. The current building is similar to the former one, and inside, it has the same back bar and a lot of the same decor as the Greenville Avenue spot. The white tablecloths and dark ceiling harken back to the ’80s and ’90s style of Dallas restaurants.
“We tried to copy, in the best way possible, what the old location had,” Pasha says. “We didn’t want to be in your face, but we didn’t want it to feel like this is some new version of what was.”
The St. Martin’s menu has been modernized, shortened to one page and rotates regularly, Pasha says. Classic items, like Champagne-brie soup ($15) and rack of lamb ($55), remain on the menu.
When St. Martin’s reopened, patrons were ready.
“It got crazy on us. Whatever we had on the reservation book didn’t matter,” Pasha says. “It was nice to know that St. Martin’s was missed.”
“The brothers are just truly servants at heart,” Marketing Director Susie Oszustowicz says. “All of their restaurants are incredibly warm and welcoming, and the idea that they took St. Martin’s and, as amazing as it was, made it even better, and I think it has a really bright future ahead because of that.”
Unlike the other restaurants on this list, Meridian in The Village hasn’t reopened — yet.
The eatery first opened in 2021 and was led by Brazilian chef Junior Borges, who was later named a James Beard Award “Outstanding Chef” semifinalist for serving dishes at Meridian inspired by his homeland.
Borges left Meridian around fall 2023 and indicated in an article that it was time to move on, and the decision was mutually beneficial to all parties.
Enter Eduardo Osorio, who was hired as Meridian’s top chef in early 2024.
Osorio began his career as a teenage dishwasher in California and became a sous chef around age 20. He continued to work in the industry and eventually moved on to opening restaurants for hospitality groups. During this time, he was recruited to Meridian.
“I want to be able to explore more on the seafood side and be able to be more creative and hit a different market and just be more of a chef-driven culture,” Osorio says.
Meridian closed over a year ago for remodeling and is expected to reopen soon. Osorio says the plan is to establish a private dining room at the north end of the building in addition to smaller tweaks in the restaurant. A small wine service counter across from the kitchen is getting transformed into a four-seat tasting area/chef’s table.
“Part of our culture and the history of the restaurant has been tasting menus,” Osorio says. “We want to make sure that we check all the boxes and make sure that we are casual. We are fun, but we’re also still pushing some boundaries in the culinary scene.”
Osorio imagines cooking pasta, lamb belly, sturgeon and foie gras, as well as using live fire and a flambadou to sear oysters and melt beef tallow. The menu will rotate to complement the seasons.
“We would like to open with a menu that is recognizable in Texas,” Osorio says.
Osorio, who had the support of mentors in his career, also wants to pass those learning opportunities to his staff.
“I want to build this kitchen to make sure that it’s fun, it’s a good environment and everyone’s enjoying working here,” he says.
MERIDIAN
URBANO CAFÉ
Urbano Café started off as Urbano Paninoteca in 2002 in Uptown Dallas. Mitch Kauffman opened the café on Fitzhugh Avenue in a renovated 1920s-era building next to Jimmy’s Food Store in 2009.
Chef Ke’o Velasquez created the menu. There was no place to store wine, so patrons were allowed to bring their own booze to pair with their meals.
The Italian restaurant saw success right away. But 15 years later, Urbano Café was very close to being gone forever.
On Jan. 9, 2024, a post on Urbano Café’s Facebook page announced it would close in a few weeks so the owners could “move on to (their) next chapter.” The message garnered 177 reactions and 40 comments from mourning customers.
Current general manager Kevan LaTorre, who worked her way up from starting as a server at Urbano in 2011, describes that time after the closure announcement as the busiest the restaurant has ever been.
“Everybody we’ve ever met came in, and everybody was so sad,” she says.
This is when the Heidaris from St. Martin’s were able to rescue another neighborhood restaurant from closure.
Before the café’s final day, a new Facebook post announced that the restaurant would stay open, and Urbano’s staffers would keep their jobs.
The number of Facebook reactions and comments from happy patrons were double that of the closing post.
LaTorre got another job managing the kitchen of a high-end retirement village and had to decide whether to take it or stay at Urbano once she was offered the general manager role. After researching, she says the choice was a “no-brainer.”
LaTorre liked the clear vision the Heidaris had for Urbano Café. They renovated the restaurant, including redoing the floors, bathrooms and patio. New lighting and dining chairs were installed.
Business has increased by 300% since the original menu was adjusted in January to lean into and expand on Italian influences, LaTorre says.
The general manager, who cut her teeth working in wine bars, and her team are “curating a very extensive rare wine list that you can’t really get at other places” and making Urbano Café a “wine destination.” And yes, there is still an option to BYOB for a corkage fee.
LaTorre wants people to feel comfortable at Urbano Café and trust that they will receive “a really good meal, great service and excellent wine.”
But, judging by the comments left under the Facebook reopening announcement, they probably already know that.
Tea TIME
Dallas Arboretum keeps patrons on their toes with changing seated tea menus
Story by MADELYN EDWARDS
by LAUREN ALLEN
The seated tea service at the Dallas Arboretum and Botanical Garden is somewhat deceptively named. At least, that’s what you may think if you’ve never had it before. Going to the DeGolyer Tea Room won’t just give you a chance to sip on a cup of tea with your pinkie raised high.
This service is not available yearround but instead offered at strategic times throughout the year — Garden Tea ($64 per person) from mid-spring to early fall, Children’s Tea ($44 for ages 2-10, $64 for adults) during the summer, Harvest Tea ($67 per person) in autumn and Holiday Tea ($72 for indoor seating, $67 for the patio) during the weeks surrounding Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day. Pricing includes admission to the Arboretum and parking.
The three-course menu for each season of tea is curated accordingly. Soup is served first, and it makes sense that alphabet chicken soup is on the children’s menu while chestnut soup is on the holiday menu. An assortment of sandwiches filled with chicken salad, cucumbers, turkey and the like are served for the second course. The third course is reserved for sweets — pecan clusters, bundtinis and truffles.
Scones are served as well. There’s the tea that changes with each course and matches the season it is being served in. Citrus and mango flavors for Garden Tea. Apple spice and peach ginger for Harvest Tea. White Champagne tea and cranberry apple hibiscus for the holidays and “Yummy Tummy Tea” for the children.
Younger children received their own menu when they gained access to the DeGolyer Tea Room in the preCOVID-19 years. Tea service used to only be available to patrons 12 years and older, but people would request children be allowed in, particularly girls with their mothers or grandmothers and Girl Scouts wanting to learn etiquette.
“A couple of years ago, we decided to sit down with the caterer (Gil’s Elegant Catering) and say,
Photography
‘What can we do to offer tea that’s for kids under 10, 12 years old that’s appealing to them,’ because they don’t want an egg salad sandwich,” says Angela Rollins, the Arboretum’s special events director. “How can we still have that same experience but more to their taste buds but then having moms and grandmothers, aunts and everybody can come with them, too?”
The tea room organizers started offering a few weekends of Children’s Tea, and it always sold out. Even today as the Children’s Tea is on a set schedule, people call in the spring asking when it will start, Rollins says.
The Children’s Tea is a microcosm for the rest of the seasonal services.
“You can actually come to tea throughout the entire year and still have a completely different experience every single time you come, because the menus are totally different,” Rollins says.
In the tea room’s early days, the menu stuck to tradition — i.e., cucumber sandwiches and scones. Those items are still available, but the cucumber sandwich, for example, is recast with smoked salmon and dilled cucumber in the Garden Tea menu.
“We kind of try and keep the same traditions, the classic flavors, but then adding it to where it’s seasonal-based and just a little bit more updated,” Rollins says.
The DeGolyer Tea Room opened in the early 2000s as part of the restaurant of the same name. It’s located inside the historic DeGolyer House, a 1939 Spanish Colonial Revival-style home that belonged to oilman and geophysicist Everette DeGolyer and his wife, Nell Goodrich DeGolyer. The tea room today seats 40 people at most and was once used as a family gathering space, Rollins says.
“We kind of renovated it and made it the tea room to still have that same atmosphere of just a great gathering place,” she says. “The tea is more of an experience. It’s an actual hour-
Top: Garden Tea sandwiches include DeGolyer seafood trio, turkey-gruyere grape salad, smoked salmon-dilled cucumber, craisin pecan-chicken salad and curried egg salad. Bottom: The DeGolyer Tea Room used to be the gift shop at the Dallas Arboretum.
Drizled pecan clusters, chocolatecovered strawberries, pecan praline chocolate truffles, white chocolate berry bundtini and lemon curd tartlet are the desserts available during Garden Tea.
and-a-half process of having the threecourse seated tea, so it kind of gives people that nice, elevated experience of coming in and enjoying tea and actually having time to sit and just gather with the family.”
The space that is now outfitted with blue and metallic-accented teacups, white table cloths and greenery used to be filled with knick-knacks as the Arboretum’s former gift shop, Rollins says.
Pecan Tree Pediatrics
“It kind of gives people that nice, elevated experience of coming in and enjoying tea and actually having time to sit and just gather with the family.”
Like the gardens themselves, the tea service is meant to grow and evolve. Menus are updated annually, and there’s no guarantee that you’ll receive the same teas, sandwiches and sweets at the DeGolyer Tea Room next year. Again, the varied experience is paramount.
“Years and years ago, we weren’t really changing the menu a lot,” Rollins says. “That’s kind of when we started to say, ‘Hey, people are getting bored. We need to do something new. We need to adjust.’”
THE HENDY PROJECT
Changes are coming to Henderson Avenue
Story by MADELYN EDWARDS
Photography by LAUREN ALLEN
Old Monk
The Charlotte
Hendy’s on Henderson
Boogie’s & High Fives
McMillan
Glencoe
N. Central Expressway
When This & That Hospitality owners Phil Schanbaum and Brandon Hays opened Sfuzzi on Henderson Avenue, the neighborhood wasn’t quite ready for a straightforward restaurant concept.
Sfuzzi originally opened in 1987 in Uptown. It was an upscale Italian restaurant operated by Robert Colombo that grew to 20 locations in 1993 before going bankrupt. While working at a nightclub, Schanbaum and Hays met Colombo, who had opened other concepts nearby. The trio worked together on the second coming of Sfuzzi, still in Uptown, in the late aughts, but it closed again in the early 2010s.
Schanbaum and Hays moved on to other projects, including The Whippersnapper and High Fives on the southeast end of Henderson Avenue. They gave Sfuzzi another try in 2022, this time on the corner of Henderson and Capitol Avenues, but it closed earlier this year.
“We thought it would maybe translate a little bit better to the next generation, and unfortunately, those kids said, ‘Oh yeah, my parents used to hang out there,’” Schanbaum says. “There’s a lot of bar-operated venues down there, and I think that it wasn’t resonating as well being so restaurant-forward.”
But that was then. This is now.
Last fall, Acadia Realty Trust and Ignite-Rebees announced a project to construct multiple mixed-use buildings on a long-vacant 161,000-square-foot property between Glencoe Street and McMillan Avenue. The project will include restaurants, offices and retail.
Schanbaum envisions this project ushering in a neighborhood that’s more walkable and hospitable to restaurants and retail, not just a bar district.
“The bar element of what that area has been able to provide is amazing, but it’s not capitalizing what all it can, and all the retail opportunities and dining opportunities that are coming forward are going to make that place really special,” he says.
To complement the new Henderson Avenue, Schanbaum and Hays opened Hendy’s on Henderson last month. The new concept purposefully walks the line between bar and restaurant. Crafted by Chef Peja Krstic of MôT Hai Ba, a recipient of Michelin’s Bib Gourmand Award, the menu has what Schanbaum calls “new American classics done better than you’ve ever had them.” The cocktail program, curated by one of Burger Schmurger’s operators Jeremy Koeninger, is meant to be approachable and broadly appealing.
“We never want people to be able to look at a menu and go, ‘I have no idea how to say that,’ or ‘That’s a little bit too adventurous for me. Maybe I should try something that’s a little bit safer,’” Schanbaum says. “We try to find ways to be able to connect with people.”
The name Hendy’s is a reference to the new generation on Henderson, the kids who call it “Hendy Avenue.”
“We wanted to kind of show the ownership of the area,” Schanbaum says.
When looking into the history of Henderson Avenue’s commercial development, Ignite-Rebees co-founder Tristan Simon’s name comes up often.
Simon landed in Las Colinas from Washington, D.C., in the ’90s because he had a sports management job working for a couple of Dallas Mavericks players in a “very lowly service capacity.” While there, he noticed something missing — a quality restaurant and bar scene — and he decided to do something about that. So, Simon opened Cool River with two other partners. Though he sold out of the Cool River project after about a year, the restaurant went on to be successful for over two decades and motivated him to pursue new concepts.
it’s just to me a real embodiment of the best of Henderson — past, present and future.
Simon moved to Dallas proper and took an interest in the north blocks of Henderson Avenue that jutted out from U.S. 75. There was construction happening on the highway in the ’90s that prevented adjacent streets, like Henderson, from evolving much, Simon says. He knew that once 75 was re-finished, which was imminent in 1999, those streets would reap the benefits. He also liked the style of old buildings on Henderson, and it didn’t hurt that the property was inexpensive to lease and buy back then. He started with Cuba Libre Cafe at the corner of Henderson and Willis Avenues where The Charlotte is now.
“I built that building, or at least the original incarnation of that building, on that triangular site. It was the first thing I did down there,” Simon says. “There was an old concrete block building with a roof half torn off that had been abandoned for some time. There was a gravel pit in the back. The street was 30% vacant from a retail perspective, (there was) vagrancy. But the bones were there, and you could see it was positioned to be something more.”
Simon rattles off a slew of restaurants and bars that he opened between 2000 and 2008, including the original Fireside Pies, The Porch, Hibiscus, Candleroom and Victor Tangos. He launched about seven concepts in eight years, some of which with chef and restaurateur Nick Badovinus.
“The idea is that we’re just going to keep building our following, sort of one new place after another, and let the customer guide us into what the next place should be until we’re kind of out of good ideas that have enough market support to justify them,” Simon says.
Simon’s experience during this time is what catapulted his career beyond Henderson Avenue. He opened Westside Tavern in Los Angeles as well as CBD Provisions and
Midnight Rambler in Downtown Dallas. Then, he sold his business while it was making $100 million in revenue with over a thousand employees in 2014.
Simon’s next venture was in commercial real estate but through a food and beverage lens. His work on Henderson showed him that destination restaurants and nightlife venues transform neighborhoods and create valuable real estate. And he hopes the new project on Henderson Avenue will have a similar or greater impact than his restaurants did in the 2000s.
Today, Henderson Avenue is filled with independent bars and restaurants, local boutiques and contemporary brands, and Simon describes the businesses as eclectic and unpretentious.
“I think the establishments on Henderson will always want to be a combination of approachable, casual spots,” Simon says. For example, The Old Monk at the intersection of Henderson, Willis Avenue and Pershing Street is “so welcoming, it is so eclectic. I don’t know anyone that doesn’t like it or feel comfortable there. All kinds of people use it, and it’s just to me a real embodiment of the best of Henderson — past, present and future.”
The Whippersnapper, a bar opened by Hays and Schanbaum near the in -
tersection of Henderson and McMillan Avenues, fits into this picture.
“We were able to change its face many times by doing all of our pop-ups and fun theme parties,” Schanbaum says. “That was something that was very special to us. We found a way to reinvent the wheel over and over again, and that was a way that allowed us to be able to run it for as long as we did.”
Hays and Schanbaum opened The Whippersnapper months after launching High Fives next door, which is celebrating 10 years in business this year. But “The Whip” closed earlier this year and will be replaced by a new This & That Hospitality bar.
Boogie’s won’t have a kitchen. Instead, music and cocktails/mocktails will be on the menu. Schanbaum describes Boogie’s as a place to listen to unique tunes — such as electronic music, disco, funk and old school — while drinking cocktails. Think fun, not aggressive, Schanbaum says. You can expect a more upbeat musical vibe after 10 p.m., but it’s not meant to be “wild and crazy.”
Boogie’s will be very different from The Whip, and that’s the point.
“You’re going to walk in and not have any idea that it was The Whippersnapper before,” Schanbaum says.
In the future, Henderson Avenue may also be ready to embrace design and architecture. This is a priority of the mixeduse buildings that are under construction. Each building will have its own identity, and they will all be built in a “design-forward manner,” Simon says. The businesses that occupy the buildings will also be more aesthetically driven.
Eight of them will be on the north side of Henderson, three on the south side. These structures vary from single-tenant retail bungalows, two- and three-story mixed-use spaces and one-story spaces with multiple tenants. This project includes repaving that part of Henderson, decorative crosswalks, landscaping and the addition of a traffic signal at McMillan and Henderson Avenues. Simon expects the buildings and public works projects to be done by the end of 2026, and all businesses to be open by the first quarter of 2027.
One of the good parts about running a business on Henderson Avenue is the synergy between the other establishments, Schanbaum says while mentioning the former Beauty Bar and Barcadia. As more operators have moved in, that vibe has only gotten better.
“We have great relationships between all the different bar owners and restaurants around that area,” Schanbaum says. “We make sure that we keep the area safe and look out for each other, which has been a really great thing for us all.” Hendy’s
The Charlotte
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