Adventure She magazine at UTMB week

Adventure She UTMB Special Issue Empower Educate Entertain

Featuring Training for the OCC Diary of doing the PTL Following the UTMB Life as part of the press pack in UTMB week What a woman – interview with Beth Pascall Photos galore

Special UTMB Issue August 2021 www.adventureshe.com

Price £3.00 or free with any subscription to Adventure She

Welcome to Adventure She Magazine’s UTMB Special Issue.

Hello and welcome to this special issue of Adventure She magazine..

In case you’re wondering, what is Adventure She magazine, it’s an online flippable magazine, that aims to empower, educate and entertain through sharing stories.

As women haven’t featured as much in historical accounts of adventure stuff, or actually history in general, Adventure She magazine does have a female focus. However, I love it when guys read us and support us.

After all, we are all people.

Whatever race, creed or colour you are, if you have a story to share, feel free to pitch it to me, Jane, the founder and editor of Adventure She magazine.

Now back to this special UTMB issue, which has been a real labour of love. With only so many pages in each issue of the magazine, it’s been impossible to include all the stories and all the photos I wanted to share, from my week at UTMB, in one issue. So the stories have been scattered across a few issues.

I thought, how could I make it easier for the UTMB fraternity? The answer is of course this special UTMB issue? Finally here it is, a combination of all the UTMB related

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stories published by Adventure She magazine to date, though one story, the June 2020 What A Woman Award feature which went to doctor and ultra runner extraordinaire Beth Pascall, admittedly have been redesigned, to allow for an extra and I think, a well deserved - photo.

Of course, since then Beth has gone on to set a new female record for the Bob Graham round, being 14 hours, 34 minutes, and 26 seconds, during which she visited 42 peaks in the UK’s Lake District, climbing around 28,500 feet over approximately 74 miles. In case you’re wondering, the fastest known time by a man, is the legendary Kilian Jornet’s time of 12 hours and 52 minutes, a mere 1 hour 42 minutes and 26 seconds faster than Beth’s record. Since setting that time in 2020, Beth has of course gone on to win this year’s Western States 100-Mile Endurance Run, in the second fastest time ever set by a woman.

As well as the UTMB related stories in this special issue, you’ll also see the editorials, content pages, plus the front and back covers from the issues containing those That way you can get a better idea about what the magazine’s usually like and if you like it, hopefully you go to www.adventureshe.com/subscribe

and subscribe. Or, get in touch with me via the contact page on the website and I’ll even give you a discount on the 2020 and 2021 issues, as you’ve already bought this special issue.

On top of what’s in the various issue of Adventure She magazine, this special also includes lots of extra photos.

So if you were there in 2019, who knows, perhaps you’ll see yourself here.

Apologies though to the CCC competitors. With just one press pass, it was impossible to cover all of the races and alas, CCC was the one that went.

I really hope you enjoy this special issue and that you choose to subscribe to Adventure She magazine, whether for 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021 or more than one of those.

Remember, if you have a story to share, please do get in touch.

Here’s to empowering, educating, and entertaining each other.

Jane

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Adventure She is published by TNA Consulting Services Ltd, the address of the registered of which can be obtained from Companies House. The entire contents are protected by copyright and all rights are reserved. Reproduction without prior permission is forbidden. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of the magazine, but the publishers assume no responsibility in the effect arising therefrom, Readers are advised to seek professional advice before acting on any information which is contained in the magazine. Neither TNA Consulting Services Ltd nor Adventure She magazine accept any liability for views expressed, pictures used, or claims made. Copyright © 2021 TNA Consulting Services Ltd. All Rights Reserved.

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Topics In This Special Issue Of Adventure She Magazine June 2020 – Editorial and Theme – The Gratitude Attitude

June 2020 – Training for the OCC

June 2020 – What is UTMB Week week

June 2020 – Adventure Running – Racing the PTL

June 2020 – What a woman – Beth Pascall

September 2020 – Editorial and Theme - Leadership

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Adventure She magazine, UTMB Special Issue Extra

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September 2020 – Part 2 of UTMB Week – Life in Chamonix

September 2020 – Part 2 of UTMB Week – The OCC

September 2020 – TDS and OCC Gallery

August 2021 – Editorial and Theme – Control the Controllable

August 2021 – Part 3 of UTMB Week – UTMB Race Time

September 2019 – Editorial and Theme – Seize the Moment

September 2019 – What A Woman – Zoe Pye and Lucja Leonard -

Special Issue Extra – More Pictures from UTMB Week

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MCC – 40km with 2300 of ascent This page: Cesar Costa, winner of the MCC race for volunteers and locals, celebrates as he approaches and crossed the finish line. After being presented with his medal at the finish, he high fived the crowd, before taking a well-deserved seat under the shade of the finish arch, whilst he waited for the second and third place finishers to the men’s race, Guillaume Adam and Pau Zamora Perez.

Opposite page: Victory presentations for the overall winners and age groupers from the 40km with 2300m of ascent, MCC race, De Martigny – Combe to Chamonix, were held that evening on the big stage. Alas a lack of space means there’s no room to include photos of all the victorious runners.

YCC – The Youth Races As many participants in these races are under 18 and we don’t have the parents’ details to obtain consent to publish these photos, we decided it was best not to share them here.

CCC – Courmayeur to Chamonix – 101 kms with 6,100m of elevation gain Alas, we couldn’t be everywhere, so we were unable to cover this race. Hopefully another magazine has included a photo gallery from the CCC.

OCC – see the September 2020 pages for a lot more on this race

This page – the start

Opposite page - Vallorcine

TDS – Sur les Traces des Ducs de Savoie to Chamonix After entry to the 2019 ballot closed, a course change to the TDS was announced, meaning people successful in the TDS ballot received a big surprise, as the course was increased from 120 kms and 7,430m of altitude ascent, to 145 kms and 9,100m of elevation gain. So the TDS became a mere 26 kms shorter than the UTMB, which in itself has over 10,000m of elevation gain. The maximum time allowed was increased to 42 hours from 34 hours in 2018.

Perhaps that big change explains why the runners who completed the TDS late on the Thursday evening, before the midnight cut off, appeared to be ecstatic. The smiles on their faces said it all. The hadn’t just achieved their goal of doing a 120 kms race over the Alps, they’d exceeded it, instead racing for 145 kms. I hadn’t planned on staying at the finish line as late as I did, but their enthusiasm was so infectious, I simply had to stay and snap snap snap away with my camera.

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Empower Educate Entertain

Senegal’s Slave Beggar Children Hiking Torres Del Paine, Chile UTMB Week Special

Also including Studying Rubbish In India

Mountain Bike Racing Paddle boarding UK And lots more

Issue10, June 2020 www.adventureshe.com

Price £5.00 for 1 issue or 4 issues for £15

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Adventure She magazine, Issue 10, June 2020

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Welcome From Our Editor Welcome to the June 2020, the 10th issue of Adventure She magazine.

published author, or a blogger, or have zero writing experience, please tell them about the

magazine, ask them to go onto its website www.adventureshe.com and ask them to say hello via the ‘contact us’ page. That’s what Eleanor Hughes did, and she’s in this issue, sharing her gratitude at having successfully hiked the W Walk in Patagonia.

I can’t believe Adventure She has already made it into double digits! Wow!!!

There’s more to ‘wow’ about, for what a time I’ve had putting together this issue. It could easily have run to over 200 pages. In fact, just yesterday stories I alas had to edit out a few stories, for there simply wasn’t space for everything. Don’t worry, they’ll now be in the September issue.

The theme for this issue is indeed GRATITUDE. This was inspired by my own experience of developing (suspected) Coronavirus and my gratitude for those who helped me through that time, whether by collecting and delivering medicine and shopping, or by walking my dog. It’s also based on the gratitude I felt for being in a country with decent health care, and the gratitude I felt for my lockdown and quarantine being in a warm, comfortable home, with a small garden where I could enjoy the sunshine.

So how to decide what stayed and what will be in September? The answer is by thinking what’s really important in the world right now?

Three issues have of course dominated the news of late – Coronavirus the illness, how to build a ‘new normal’ and the Black Lives Matter movement.

You see, many people in the world don’t have the privilege of a safe place to live. I did. In this issue, award winning photographer Maria Tomas-Rodriguez, writes about some of these people, the Talibé children of Senegal. Her pictures are enough to break one’s heart, for what those poor children have to endure, is unimaginable to me. Reading Maria’s story only emphasised to me, how much I have and how grateful I should be, for what I have.

In setting up this magazine, my aim was to empower, educate and entertain through sharing stories. But I also wanted to give women an opportunity to share their stories, so we can all learn from each other and grow from that learning.

So I’ve tried to give an opportunity for writers whether experienced or starting out, to share their stories, regardless of where they live, their colour, or their religion.

Lockdown and masks were things I thought, I would never see, living as I do in a democracy where few wore face coverings. Yet across the globe, democratic governments have persuaded their citizens to stay at home and thousands chose to wear masks in public. By now, masks are even mandatory in many places, including public transport where I am currently situated.

I know there have been too few stories from certain parts of the world, certain colours and certain religions. I have and will continue to approach people from all over the world to try and expand the writer base. But, I can only do so much.

So I thought it would be interesting, to swap stories from around the world, about lockdown experiences. Enter previous contributors Angharad Hodgson, Lucja Leonard, Katie

So if you know someone with a story to share, regardless of their location, colour or religion, and regardless of whether or not they are a a lifetime of body 2

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Wright and Paula Reid, who all turned around the questions I sent them really quickly. Thank you so much for that. Living in Dubai, the USA, New Zealand and the UK, they had very different experiences and also share their learnings from the experience.

So what now? True it’s possible to again visit certain countries? But at what risk to our health and will we need to spend time in quarantine on arrival there and / or, on returning home. That’s where local adventures come in. After all, how well do we know our local area? Steph Cooke shares about a long distance one day challenge hike near her, Rhiannon Gunner shares about the joys of mountain biking which, can often be done close to home – though please only mountain bike at your skill level - Rhiannon is a pro.

Meanwhile Grace Bovis writes about her gratitude a being able to do a classic day bike ride from near her home in London, the ride to Box Hill and back.

But what if adventuring locally isn’t enough?

Kat Owens shares a different type adventure, from her time working in India, complete partner and children in tow. She was there for months, not days or weeks, which meant she could immerse herself in the local scene. Her trip was thanks to a scholarship, for which she is so grateful, for without that scholarship, it would have been impossible for her and her family to experience and immerse themselves in India. Perhaps that’s the near term future of adventure - fewer trips to far flung places, but staying longer and immersing oneself whilst there?

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I’ve been promising stories from UTMB week, the world’s biggest trail running festival, ever since I got back last September. Finally, here’s a few to whet your appetite. Truth be told, there’s so many stories, so many interviews and so many photographs that I would love to share, UTMB week really needs its own special issue. I had hoped … alas time precluded.

Don’t worry, there will be lots more in the September issue. If you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to do the longest race at UTMB week, namely the PTL, wonder no more as Gitte Sveigaard Shares her experience in this issue.

Do you remember those seemingly innocent, carefree, pre-lockdown days? Well, there’s also a few stories to remind us all of the good old times. You know what, all of these adventurers are so grateful for their experiences, be it Isi Oakley hiking in the wilds of the Outer Hebrides, Eleanor Hughes hiking in the cold of Patagonia, Penny Mitchell paddle boarding against the wind and getting a world first for a woman, or Andrea Brookes galloping across the beaches of Spain.

There is so much out there in our amazing world. Let’s all vow now, to be grateful for that we can experience, be it locally for now, or at some point, on the other side of an ocean, or a continent, or even the planet. For there are children out there in Senegal and so many other places, who quite possibly would give their right arm, to have what it is that we have and yet so often, forget to appreciate.

Jane

Following Adventure She on social media If you'd like to follow Adventure She on social media and / or join our Facebook Group, we'll be delighted to see you.

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From The

Adventure She is published by TNA Consulting Services Ltd, the address of the registered of which can be obtained from Companies House. The entire contents are protected by copyright and all rights are reserved. Reproduction without prior permission is forbidden. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of the magazine, but the publishers assume no responsibility in the effect arising therefrom, Readers are advised to seek professional advice before acting on any information which is contained in the magazine. Neither TNA Consulting Services Ltd nor Adventure She magazine accept any liability for views 3 expressed, pictures used, or claims made. Copyright © 2020 TNA Consulting Services Ltd. All Rights Reserved.

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Page 6 – Senegal’s Forced Beggar Children

Page 16 – Coping With Lockdown

Page 32 –Challenge Walks With The Long Distance Walking Association

Page 40 – Downhill Mountain Biking

Page 48 – A Lockdown Cycling Microadventure

Page 52 – Adventure, Scholarship And Rubbish

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Page 60 – Training For UTMB Week’s OCC & What Is UTMB Week

Page 58 – Book Reviews

Page 78 –Adventure Running – UTMB Week’s PTL

Page 92 – What A Woman

Page 96- Hiking In The Outer Hebrides

Page 108 – Hiking In Torres del Paine

Page 124 – Paddle Boarding Bristol To London

Page 132 – Adventures On Horseback

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Training for the OCC – Part Of UTMB Week By Jane Harries UTMB is quite probably the closest festival ultra-runners have, to being in the Olympics. It’s kind of an unofficial world championships for trail ultrarunning.

A few athletes might be the lucky recipient of an invitation to participate or obtain a charity slot. But most of the runners need to qualify. This involves training up for, participating in and collecting points by finishing certain named qualifying races. Once that’s done, wannabee participants need to apply for a place in a way oversubscribed ballot. (Yes we know for 2020 onwards, there’s an alternate way to qualify, but as this article focuses on 2019, that’s not relevant to this article).

When the ballot results come out in January almost 8 months before the race, ultra-runners can finally book their summer holiday. Those with a place, book Chamonix. For those unlucky in the ballot, it’s time to research a Plan B. In January 2019 and at the first time of trying, our editor’s name came up in the ballot for the OCC, the shortest of the balloted races and which itself is 56km.

She couldn’t believe her luck. She was so grateful. Especially grateful, for the reality was with her history of injuries, it was unlikely she’d manage to train up for and do enough qualifying races, to enter the ballot in subsequent years.

She couldn’t wait, it was time to get training and to build herself up again, for she was about to become a part of the world’s biggest trail running festival.

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Pre Ballot Excitement 9 January 2019 The results of the ballot are out tomorrow.

I kind of entered it on a whim, simply because I could. Now though I can’t believe how nervous I am about the ballot.

I realise I really want this. I want this big challenge to train up for and what bigger challenge than to take part in UTMB week? I’m mentally ready for this challenge. After doing the Marathon Des Sables and the IRONMAN 70.3 Word Championships in 2017, I needed a break.

Losing my father last year and everything that involved, reinforced my need for that break. Now, I want to be back in the game, back participating, even if it’s towards the back of the pack.

The Ballot Result 10 January 2019 I’m in!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Whooppee. So is Anita who I met at the MDS. She lives not too far away from me which is good, we can catch up do some long runs together.

It’ll help keep things interesting. Plus we’re both slow, so we should match up ok speed wise.

How do I feel? Lucky of course and very grateful. Scared too. For if I’m to finish within all the cut offs, I’ll need some mega improvement in my fitness.

Training For Real 13 January 2019 Sometimes nature is too beautiful to keep running. Sometimes one needs to stop to appreciate the moment. Today’s run walk involved muddy trails, waterlogged paths and acrobatics in order to keep my feet dry. All ended well though, with the most

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terrific sunset imaginable, a blue sky, firey red clouds and a brilliant orange horizon.

16 January 2019 Yesterday I got talking to a dog walker on the local huge beach. I thought I knew her from somewhere. I didn’t want to seem rude by ignoring her, so I went up to her. Oops, it was a TV presenter!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! How embarrassing.

Actually we already know each other via Instagram and she was lovely. She asked me about the local mountain and whether it was possible to run up it. I offered to show her the way.

So today was the day I showed Lowri Morgan, the only finisher at the 6633 Ultra Marathon in 2011 (she did the full course of 350 miles and it was freezing, being Canada’s Yukon in March), up the mountain that looms over my home town in Pembrokeshire.

Yikes, she is so fit and I am even more unfit than I thought. I almost vomitted and we weren’t even going fast. I sent her ahead, suggesting she do hill reps, whilst I proceeded at my own pace. It was still a blast and we had a great chat, especially on the flattish top and the long steep downhill back to town.

The mountain may only be small, a mere hill to some, but it is wild, rugged, exposed, rough underfoot and steep in places. Plus as Lowri says, 10 times up that thing, would be the equivalent to doing the OCC. Well I won’t be doing ten hill reps up there, but it certainly makes for a great training ground.

Meeting and running with Lowri has been a great motivator. She really is amazing, very inspirational and super friendly too.

A brilliant way to wrap up my extended Christmas and New Year stay in Pembrokeshire. It’s time to get back to London.

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the others for the rowing bit. Glad to say by then I was feeling a lot better. B wasn’t that happy in the boat, a tad apprenhensive when up front on the way to the pub. On the return journey she made herself really useful, choosing to sit behind me and in so doing, providing me with a backrest!

It’s snowed… Not unusal to many, but here in London, still a novelty. Went hiking on Box Hill with a mountaineer, Gemma Smith.

She’s going to write about climbing Mont Blanc for the magazine (March 2019 issue).

Gemma’s training for the Himalayas, so we were both happy to tackle Box Hill from all sorts of different directions. Makes hill repeats a lot more fun.

Later, after coffee and food with some of the others, we ran along the river. As I’m training more, I really do need to start watching my food intake better. I was starving by the time I got home. Lesson learned. All in all, it was a great day out. The trees in bloom along the river, were an added bonus.

23 Febuary 2019 I’m determined to get out there and do more fun stuff, to stop being so serious. So today, I joined a group for a run in Richmond Park followed by a row in an old fashioned heavy wooden rowing boat, to a pub and back. I took B with me. Problem is, by the time I met the others at Richmond station, I was feeling ill. Was it the pollution? My lungs didn’t want to cooperate run wise. So I headed off to a café - drank coffee, read the paper - and met

2 March 2019 Anita and I met up for a hill repeat session on Box Hill. Anita says I’m a hard task master.

In 9.9 miles we did 2,753 feet of elevation gain according to Anita’s watch. Perhaps I

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should have warned her in advance, that I’m a big fan of hill training.

what I can, like sightseeing Reykjavik’s architecture and seashore whilst going out for a run, or should I say jog, for I’m still really slow. Swimming in one of their glorious open air pools made for some wonderful cross training, whilst hiking through fresh snow to see the waterfalls and geysers, made for a good foot placement, balance and core workout.

5 March 2019 Today I was interviewed on national radio about Adventure She magazine. I’m in awe that Radio Cymru - the Welsh language radio broadcaster and the radio station I grew up with - approached me for this interview. Me on the radio! Wow, I’m really honoured.

9 April 2020

Thank you Radio Cymru, Aled Hughes, Angharad Jones and everyone involved with the programme. To be on the radio speaking in my native tongue, is truly special to me, something I still can’t believe has happened.

My dog, B, is officially bored. She wants to know how much longer she has to put up with me having a chest infection and laryngitis. It’s been with me almost since I returned from giving a talk on ‘how to deliver a pitch’ at the Sheffield Adventure Film Festival, way back on 24th March.

17 March 2019 I’m in Iceland with one of my oldest friends, Kate. Despite the holiday, training for the OCC can’t stop. So, I’ve been squeezing in

As for training, well that’s a thing of the past.

22 April 2019

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Whohoo, I’m back onto the long runs. I know, possibly a tad fast after that bug of mine. But I’m feeling so good again and my body and mind are gagging to be outside. Plus, it’s gorgeous weather. I’m so grateful I’ve bounced back from the bug.

I caught up with Anita again. Today we did the 16km Surrey Hills Challenge course. I still have the map from when I did one of the races (organised by SLOW, my old orienteering club), some years ago. The trails may not be that hilly or that steep compared to Box Hill, but they make for good footwork and pace training. What’s really pleasing, is I didn’t feel at all tired afterwards!!!!!!!!!!!

I love training with a focus, not just having a goal to work towards, but having intermediate goals too. So, I’m going to do as much of the North Downs Way as I can in training. It’s part of an ancient pilgrim route, albeit now diverted in places. It’s Easter, so today seemed like an appropriate time to start this journey which I’ll do as day stages.

11 May 2019 Today it was time to test myself in a race, the Preseli Beast Bach. The race was 11 miles (according to my watch), with about 600m of ascent and descend and mostly seriously off road. It took me 2 hours 33 minutes. I know, I’m still slow, but I was happy with that.

Today was part one, Farnham to Guildford.

What with sightseeing in Farnham, walking to and from the train stations and hike / jogging to Guildford, B and I did just over 29kms.

It was a brilliant event, superbly organised.

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Many thanks to the organiser Carwyn Phillips of Rhedwyr Preseli, plus the caterers, marshals and all the other volunteers, for their hard work in making this event happen. My first time, but I definitely hope to be back.

Funniest part of the day, calling out and exchanging greetings with a woman of my age, who I knew as a child, thanks to Sunday school. That’s the joy of racing back home, you never know who you’ll bump into.

19 June 2019 Another long one today, 30km. A friend joined B and I. Along the way we encountered fields full of poppies, that stretched as far as the eyes could see. It was stunning.

29 June 2019 Today was the not so glamorous side of training for an ultra, for a back of the pack person.

It was a super-hot day. In the end I couldn't help myself. Despite carrying lots of liquid and snacks, I detoured down a steep sandy hill - that also involved acrobatics so I could avoid the stinging nettles – plus another kilometre next to a stinking hot tarmac road, so I could raid a tiny local shop.

Standing in the air-conditioned room for a few minutes, was absolute bliss. Alas the shop was too small for me to linger inside, so I settled down in the only patch of shade outside – the shadow cast by a commercial size giant rubbish bin!

Belly full of freshly purchased junk food, I’d have preferred a siesta over returning to the trail. Still the trail won. Mind you, rather than continuing along the North Downs Way to Dorking train station,, as I was now feeling a tad sick after all that sun and junk food, I double backed to Guildford train station.

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It was so tough out there today. I hope it’s not like that at OCC. Still who knows what the weather will be like come race day, so I need to be ready for anything.

6 July 2019 I am shattered after doing 28.5kms in 5 hours with 860m of ascent and a bit more of a descent. I think jelly and blancmange otherwise known as my legs - will be in pain tomorrow. How on earth will I manage twice that distance and over 4 times the elevation gain, in just a few weeks?

7 July 2019 Day off training. Watched Wimbledon tennis on i-player. I had my legs up. Moved slightly, felt something in my left knee.

8 July 2019 My left knee is behaving a tad strangely. It’ll be fine I’m sure.

9 July 2019 Why is my knee still sore? Did I walk around on it too much yesterday? I can’t believe it’s hurting this much. All I was doing was watching TV with my legs up. I wasn’t even training. How can such a miniscule thing as moving slightly when my leg was up, cause whatever it is, that’s going on in my leg? I don’t get it.

Ok, I’ll take a few days off, after all, I’m off to the Brecon Beacons this weekend, I don’t want to miss out on that, so best take it easy now.

12 July 2019 Whoppee, it’s long weekend time with Caroline and Noel in the Brecon Beacons.

Enroute, I tested my knee with a walk jog up Sugarloaf. I’m really happy with how it behaved.

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Up top it was WINDY. I simply had to pose for a selfie.

15 July 2019 That was a fabulous weekend of training runs and hikes in the Brecon Beacons. It was, all about testing myself on the ascents and descents. I may still be slow, as evidenced by my coming last in a fell run up Fan y Big on Saturday, but not everyone can be fast.

Besides, did anyone else stop to take and pose for photos?

Saturday’s race was a 16.83km fell race with over 680m of ascent and descent. Yesterday I backed that up with Corn Du, Pen-Y-Fan, Cribyn, down the ridge, up another path to Bwlch y Fan, Fan y Big, round the back, back up to Cribyn, on to Pen Y Fan and Corn Du, down to Storey Arms, and then along the Taff Trail to the hostel where I’m staying. I arrived just in time for dinner with Caroline and Noel (they’d run their hearts out on Saturday, did brilliantly and chose to take it easier yesterday).

On the Taff Trail, I kept myself entertained by singing Welsh folk songs out loud. My apologies to any animal or human who suffered ear damage, as a result, of my screeching renditions.

Scary thought is, yesterday was still less, than half of what the OCC will involve. Time is getting short. Will I make the start line and the cut offs? I have no idea. But I can only try and for me, that means a recovery day today.

After all yesterday was hard –almost 24kms of a hike / jog, with 1579m of ascent and 1554m of descent (different start and finish).

As for the knee, it was fine on Saturday, but I did feel an ‘ouch’ yesterday on a particularly steep and tussock covered off trail bit. After that, I stuck to the paths.

More worrying is as today progressed, my knee got worse. Tonight, I’m in pain. There’s no way I can drive back to London tomorrow, I won’t be able to use the clutch to change gears, the knee’s that bad.

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It’s time to make a bargain with myself. I’ll take it easy until I head off to Switzerland on the 2nd August, for a test run on the OCC course.

5 August 2019 Wow, wow, wow, wow, wow. I, as founder and editor of Adventure She magazine, have been granted press accreditation for UTMB week!!! Not bad for a former tax advisor / lawyer and trainer, who only set up this online magazine 18 or so months ago.

Clearly the organisers believe in the magazine's aim of empowering, educating and entertaining predominantly women through sharing stories of adventure.

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I can’t believe it, me and the magazine in the press corps of UTMB week, the biggest trail running festival in the world!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thank you UTMB. It really is a day to celebrate, as today I hiked and jogged from Orsières up to ChampexLac, using the OCC trail. Sure it was steep in places, but I was fine and my knee was fine too. I am so happy.

9 August 2019 First World problem. I am shattered, after voluntarily hiking Orsières to Chamonix with a dodgy knee and carrying a 12kg pack.

It was 32 degrees centigrade today – ouch but stunning.

According to my watch I climbed 3,540m since starting on Monday. It took me 4 days

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excluding the day I only did 3 kms of downhill from the Col de la Forclaz to Trient. I stopped there as it was pouring. The weather was hideous and with all the rain and low cloud, I wouldn’t have seen a thing. On race day I’ll only have 14 hours 30 minutes to do it.

Mind you, I won’t be carrying a big pack and I won’t be stopping off at mountain huts and cafes to eat, sleep and drink. I certainly won’t be stopping to make videos or to take a hundred or so photographs, nor will I be detouring to fit in an extra mountain pass or two.

Today I was once again a guest on Aled Hughes’s radio show on Radio Cymru. This time though I was chatting with Ffion Dafis who was standing in for Aled, about how come women are beating guys at ultradistance events such as the Spine race and the bike race across Europe.

Hats off to Jasmin Paris and Fiona Kolbinger, not forgetting Katie Wright, who was outright winner at the Backyard ultra in New Zealand.

They really are amazing trailblazers for women, both in respect of their work and their adventuring / racing.

Sitting here now in a restaurant in Chamonix, with a full stomach, I may be shattered, but I am also very happy, and so grateful I got to see the mountains at their finest.

24 August 2019 I’m packing for Chamonix. Heading off there to be part of the press pack, and not as a participant in the OCC.

10 August 2019

Have I really accepted that I won’t be racing?

I tell others my season is over, but the truth is, I still want to do it. In fact, I’m struggling with not doing the OCC.

Bother, my knee is really troubling me.

Walking around Geneva airport is painful and really slow hard work.

On landing back in the UK, instead of walking up the stairs at the airport, I found myself standing on the escalator. This is not good.

It is so frustrating, so annoying, why?

16 August 2019

I know I need to remember, that no matter how I feel, the injury is there. I must not let the atmosphere in Chamonix get to me. I must not start. I need to allow the OCC to run without me.

I’ve been going to physio and well, it’s time for me to accept that my season is over, the OCC - my ‘A' race for the year - will happen without me, whilst I start on the knee rehab.

It'll be hard, as I thrive on adrenaline. But I have only one body. I need to respect it. A race is only a race. Life is far far far more, than any race, pole or summit, can ever be.

I have pushed it as far as I can, without causing serious long term issues. Life is more important than any race, no matter how big or prestigious the race.

So, I look at my bag. What shall I pack into it and what shall I leave at home? Will I pack for the race, or won’t I? Epilogue

So, here's to the exercise bike at the gym, swimming and strolling, rather than running and pack carrying over mountains, at least for the next few weeks.

Space precludes me from sharing what I did or did not pack. Though I will tell you this.

Being part of the press corps in Chamonix during UTMB week was a phenomenal experience. There’s a little bit about it, plus a story from the PTL on the following pages, but for more, you’ll have to wait until the September issue.

20 August 2019 I may not be doing the OCC but there’s still some good things in life.

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What Is UTMB Week?

Q&A With Jane Harries

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What’s it like having a press pass?

Where and when is UTMB week?

It was all go go go. I didn’t stop.

UTMB week is the last week in August.

Chamonix France is the race hub and a hive of activity. If wanting to be in Chamonix whether to run or for some other reason during this week, book your accommodation way in advance.

To get a real feel for the magnitude of UTMB week, meant I needed to get out there and talk with as many athletes, supporters, locals, race organisers, journalists, and bloggers, as I could. I even got chatting with the CEO of a film company. At times I was so shattered and my head was spinning so much, I didn’t even remember meeting some people who subsequently got in touch with me!

What’s the atmosphere like?

Mind you, some of those catch ups were in some fabulous coffee shops and yes, I consumed a lot of coffees, plus a few cakes, pastries and ice cream.

It’s a giant cauldron of fit people. Lots of running shops hold events and talks, some even come with a free breakfast.

It wasn’t enough though for me to hang around in Chamonix’s coffee shops. I needed to witness races in progress, to see – on occasion - the pain, suffering and agony of the competitors, other times to witness the joy, happiness and delight, of when they made it to the finish and achieved their goal.

The cafes, bars and restaurant don’t just buzz in the evenings, they buzz all of the time.

The only thing I can compare it to, is spectating at the Olympics and the Commonwealth Games, that’s how ‘buzzy’ it is. But it’s better than those events, for here you’re right next to and mingling with the athletes and their family and friends.

Of course, to finish isn’t enough for those gunning for a podium or a win.

So, I did see a small number of highly placed athletes who appeared more disappointed and frustrated, rather than joyous.

What races are there?

UTMB TDS CCC OCC MCC YCC PTL

There was also the official presentations at a hotel, about the history of the UTMB and its expansion to other continents and places in Europe. Plus there was the presentation of leading contenders in Chamonix’s main ‘square’, though it’s actually a triangle, hence its name Place du Triangle de l'Amitié.

171 km, 10,000m altitude gain 145 km, 9,100m altitude gain 101km, 6,100m altitude gain 56 km, 3500m altitude gain 40 km, 2300m altitude gain Distance aged dependent 290 km 25,000m altitude gain

It was definitely all - go, go, go.

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Did you have a car or if not, how did you travel around?

I didn’t have a car. I stayed in Chamonix until the Wednesday afternoon, when I took a bus and two trains to Orsières. That’s where the OCC starts. I’d pre-booked the accommodation ages ago, when I thought I’d be doing the race.

The race organisers have buses for the accredited press, so the press can follow the races.

In Orsières I joined one of those buses. It was great being driven around, not having to worry about parking or anything else and being there to see the front runners come through.

But keeping up with the front runners also meant not seeing the rest of the field. So I only used those buses on the Thursday for the OCC and the Friday evening for the UTMB. On the Saturday and Sunday, I used a combination of public transport and special buses laid on by the race organisers for everyone, and which went to the checkpoints. Having those buses meant support crew didn’t need to use their own cars (though in the OCC, no outside assistance is allowed), minimizing traffic congestion and pollution. I think the race organisers like many others, have become increasingly aware of their impact on the environment and of the importance of minimizing disruption to local communities. Having the buses would certainly have helped in achieving those goals.

The one downside of the buses, they were sometimes full and there could be a long wait between them. The race organisers though are really thorough, so if there was a bottleneck anywhere, I’d be surprised if there was a bottleneck in the same place ever again. They are definitely very efficient. Oh and for the record, they haven’t paid me any money and they don’t know I’m writing this, though I might send them a copy.

What was the hardest part?

Accepting I couldn’t do the OCC myself. I deliberately left my running clothes and hydration system in London, so I couldn’t accidentally find myself on the start line. Somehow though the atmosphere got to me and I really wanted to do the race. I’d already bought a gorgeous running t-shirt. Then I couldn’t resist a skort I saw. When Camelbak gave me a race vest that fitted me perfectly, I found myself equipped to do the race, for I had my running shoes with me (to walk around in, as they’d be kinder to my knee than high heels would be).

You see by this time, my knee was no longer causing me any real pain and I really wanted to run. So I went into a pharmacy to buy strapping for my knee and it was the pharmacist who talked me out of running, emphasising how I don’t get to see the injured runners afterwards, the ones that have pushed way too hard through injury and caused themselves long term damage. Adding her words on top of the speech the physio gave me back in London, finally made me realise I definitely couldn’t run. What’s more, when I woke up the following morning, after all the rushing around of the previous few days, my knee was once again sore and every step I now took hurt.

Nabbing my front row spot

It’s a good job I didn’t race for a subsequent MRI showed I’d a torn UTMB meniscus and a for the forthcoming prize giving. Note the hat and sprained medial crucial ligament. long (but cool) sleeves, to shield me from the sun.

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Courtney Dauwalter winner of the women’s UTMB race, stepping on stage o receive her prize

Two time Adventure She contributor Zoe Pye, approaching the finish line of the UTMB race

The volunteers are rightfully much celebrated at the UTMB

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Adventure Running – The PTL By Gitte Sveigaard Photography by Team TejnIF

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About the PTL and us

After 5 days, 18 hours and 40 minutes, with an elevation gain and loss of over 25,000 metres in the mountains and 290km covered, we crossed the finish line in Chamonix in the middle of the night on Sunday 1st of September 2019. A goal both Philip and I had been looking forward to achieving for days, months and years.

Nevertheless, the most important part of the PTL race, the longest race at UTMB week, being 290km in 2019, isn’t crossing the finish line; it’s the real and amazing adventure which takes place between the start and finish lines.

PTL is a part of the UTMB week, and this year was the 11th anniversary of the PTL race. Every single year the PTL has a new route, new places, new mountains and paths to explore. It takes place around the impressing Mont Blanc massive.

The PTL track is an un-marked route only tracked by GPS and maps. This means all teams hold a GPS tracker, which the PTL headquarters can use to follow the teams, for control and security reasons.

During the race there is possibilities to sleep, eat and supplies in the Refuges enroute. The total time allowed is 6 days, 8 hours and 30 minutes.

Our Team, TejnIF, is made up of Kim, Philip and me – Gitte.

The Start Monday 26th August we’re in Chamonix for the morning start. With our bags packed full of equipment for the mountains, including helmets, survival shelters and crampons – equipment that is crucial for the success and safety in the remote mountains - we were heading on an expedition.

It’s the path, the whole journey, the adventure, the goal. It’s so much more than crossing the finish line!

This was emphasized during the race briefing by the race director, who encouraged us runners to remember to enjoy the race, the adventure, and the many impressions we would have during the experience that lay ahead of us.

The atmosphere at the start is very special amongst us runners, it’s magnified more by the signature music of UTMB week, the “Conquest of Paradise”. I can sense the mixed feelings of honor, humility and gratefulness on the breath of every runner.

We set off by running through the streets of Chamonix, to the support of the early birds, family and friends cheering us on our way.

At times in the days ahead of us it will be impossible to run, but like the other teams, we run this first section, for its 10kms to the first climb.

In my race report I will do my best to catch at bit of this unforgettable adventure...

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line, there is no more shade for us the pale Danish team.

Shortly after I contact the PTL headquarters and they give us permission for our decision.

During the persistent and hard climbs throughout the day we are hit by bad luck.

Unfortunately, our team leader, the grand old man Kim, starts feeling uncomfortable. He’s suffering from way too high a heart rate and increasing dizziness.

We repack the mandatory equipment into our now two backpacks, we kiss goodbye and with teeth bit tight together and eyes focused on the uphill trail ahead, Philip and I continue.

We decrease speed, have long breaks with plenty of cola, water and food, but even with these good investments, Kim is in a bad way.

It’s in doubt if it is safe for Kim to continue throughout the night into the mountains.

The day turns into night. We enjoy the lights of all the other runners in the dark. Our mood is good. The ascent is technical accent, a mix of loose minor rocks and huge rocks. We reach the steep mountain slopes, where chains are fastened for hand railing and the mountaineering begins for real.

The first night

In the end the decision is taken, Kim will draw from the race, and let the team continue.

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As we enter the first hut “Mottes”, in the very early hours, we grab a fast meal and sleep for a few hours on benches in the restaurant, as all the bunks in the hut are fully occupied. At the hut we meet one of the many volunteers, a really sweet old lady, totally white haired, who with her hospitality, friendly and empathetic attitude, has the character of a PTL-muse for me. (Every time we met her at the huts during the race, the reunion was lit up by warm smiles and joy, and a salute” See you in Chamonix”).

In the early morning we leave all paths behind us. We traverse the mountain on wet, slippery grass, then climb. It’s like we are climbing up into the sky. We’re on loose slate; it slips under our feet, challenging us with one step down for every two steps up.

The team ahead yells “ROCKS” every time rocks break loose and accelerate towards and then on through us. It took us more than an hour to complete this “game” of miss the rocks…

At the top we’re met with a new game, a game of courage, for what lies ahead spices up the experience. It’s a ridge – of course still made of loose slate rocks - and with quite an ‘airy passage’ dropping off on both sides.

Here we call on and find our courage. We step onto the ridge and stride forward into the abyss. On the other side, we both rejoice and are relieved, it’s that ‘good we made it feeling’!

In the dark night we zig zag upwards to the Col de Soigné. Our way is marked with stone piles. The environment here is harsh and the slope is covered by stones.

Our trail spirit is brilliant, as we see the first daylight, the rising sun. A wonderful Japanese team breaks the silence of the mountains with music sounding from their loudspeaker – out there in the middle of nowhere…!

Ahead of us is Morgex, 86km from Chamonix, we’ve promised ourselves a break there and lasagna. We just need to get down to it. We run mile after mile on a long descent, with

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Night 2 – Wet clothes

humid, warm, before thunder, air and lots of small villages by the river. In Morgex we see our drop bags for the first time. In them are the supplies we packed into them prior to the race, food, fresh socks…, all we need and wished for.

For me it is a long walk. I’m not feeling okay and “my engine” complains about the continuous struggle 24/7. Philip does the work of navigating us “…we grab a fast meal and safely across another sleep for a few hours on Kim our lost team mountain pass and member and coach is benches in the restaurant, as all our headlamps do also there. We enjoy their job on the the bunks in the hut are fully his company, his descent, helping us occupied.” advice and everlasting find the route marked mantras about by stone piles. But efficiency in the huts the piles of stone are and economic pace on not easily visible, and the trails. One hour later we aim for the we have to search for them. mountains. It’s our second evening and night out. Last night had been dry. Tonight, as we Spotting lights from the next hut is such a reach the forest thunderclaps and raindrops welcoming feeling. We hang our wet clothes hit. and shoes for drying, while we rest and have

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a long sleep - 3½ hours – as we deserve it and are not pushed by the time barriers / cut offs.

to wear our harnesses and to rope up for a while.

Our path has been marked carefully. It’s an exciting and exacting task, one that requires all our attention. Finally, after about 3km we reach the moraine. It’s like a stone desert.

We navigate slowly forward. It takes us hours. I see all kind of stones and in all sizes.

The sleep does its job. We’re refreshed as we start out in the dark for the next peak, Mt. Fallere. We reach the top just at sunrise for a stunning view. Mt. Fallere makes a good impression on me, a raw amazing and honest mountain, technical and challenging to pass.

Day 3 – Imodium v Diarrhea

Reaching a simple trail, we celebrate with high fives and “Yeah”, for that moraine made for a demanding passage and extremely difficult navigation. We’re both so happy to be off it.

Downhill again, and again through rain, rain that might release a giant rock fall. (We later learned rocks the size of a van size rolled – luckily for everyone in the PTL, it was far away on another mountainside, but it is a reminder to all of us, how small we are out there in the nature).

Through a small river, over a fence, following a cow path, leading the Filipino team in right direction, and all together we make it to our first hut in Switzerland, our third country on this journey which started in France and has already taken us into Italy. The usual procedure: shoes off, food, self-briefing on the next stage, packing the backpack, and sleep.

It’s day three now and I have a battle, me and Imodium v diarrhea - a battle Imodium finally won after 24 hours.

More pleasantly, at one of the huts the PTL’s race director greets us. He praises our team for the ever-smiling approach (and truly speaking we did smile a lot in this adventure), our greetings and smiles, our local Danish trail spirit, our good trail relationships. It gives us lots of good karma, it is simple universal non-verbal bonding and it works!

Our routine is fixed, no wasting of time, no disorders, everything is set as we would like it to be. We are halfway, with 154km behind us, mentally we are “just” heading home to Chamonix now, it is an extremely nice feeling, and we are ready to proceed to Fully (206km from Chamonix) today.

Day three ends at the highest point in the race, the 3,200 metre Col de By.

Day 4 – Teamwork

Night 3 – Roping up

The day starts with an easy walk – but turns into a hot day. My teammate is low on energy and mood on this, day 4. The good news is we are really good at complementing each other, when one is down the other one automatically takes over with an optimistic approach and a caring attitude.

Next, we must proceed over the glacier du Mont Durand in the dark. There’s a team from the Philippines playing Christmas music – the scene was completed, with the wishing of a “merry Christmas”!

For the glacier passage we put on our crampons. We test the ice with Bambi like steps. Happy we pick up our speed and shortly after, we are running down the glacier, surprised at the easiness. But then it becomes so technical with severe risk of deep cracks, the mountain guides instruct us

In the afternoon we rest and have a meal at a hut by the most turquoise and beautiful mountain lake.

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Night 4 - The descent

Day 5 – Raw, natural beauty

We proceed, high on soft drinks and ready for a night with only 1396m climb, but a brutal 3166m of decent. We know this descent will be hard, for the Tete des Etablons is marked as a difficult descent on the map.

The descent keeps going. We do the first 1000m downhill in the proper way – but from then on, the last 1400m becomes a nightmare for the knees, feet and legs – the mountain literally eats our legs…

In Fully we meet the Filipino team again. All three of them sit in a water fountain to cool down their burning legs and feet. We continue to the checkpoint and to our drop bag, a shower, beds and food. The rest of 3 hours does miracles to the legs. I’d doubts about our legs the night before; would they still work after that descent? Now after the rest, they are more than ready to proceed.

A few meters into the descent, in dense fog and the dark, we realize this is a crazy steep and unfriendly descent, with a very difficult track, and dramatic drop offs on each side of the ridge.

We meet a French team. We don’t understand a word the other team says, and they don’t understand us. But we work together and find a way to guide and help each other on this hard descend. It’s even harder because the fog now so dense, the only thing we can see is our own feet.

With the new supplies packed we head off on an ascent of 2488m to Grand Chavalard. It’s slow and continuously uphill, but almost uplifting, as it isn’t downhill.

Later, once into the forest, the fog clears off and humid warm tropic air takes over.

The Grand Charvalard is beautiful mountain.

A beautiful mountain is for me a raw, natural mountain, preferably in a harsh environment

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and hard to reach, with limited marked trails.

We’re blessed with sunny weather and an adrenalin kick, as the PTL mountain guides have placed special ropes for us on a technical climbing part, which made the route possible and in respect of safety reasons, doable.

keep close together, concentrating on each step, our eyes, feet and hands doing an extraordinary job. It’s a fantastic experience to be on the mountain in this way.

It’s very slow pace wise, but we felt enormous lucky – brave like action heroes – and woundable as kids. Our team is from the pancake flat country of Denmark, yet here we are surrounded by the mountains, with nature and its naked rocks and stones stretching in front for us, for as far as we can see. It is an absolutely favourite spot to be – so calm and so wild!

“We don’t understand a word the other team says and they don’t understand us. But we work together and find a way to guide and help each other on this hard descend”

At the small valley hut of Cabane Fenestral we take a short efficient rest, then it’s back on the trails again. Morcles is ahead of us, with more rock climbing in same degree as the Chavaland, or even a step further, and an absolutely special descent through a steep narrow ravine. The navigation is demanding and there’s a high risk of danger from rock falls.

It’s absolutely the hardest and most technical terrain we’ve encountered in the race. We

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For safety, we have to coordinate the descent with the two other teams in the vicinity.

as we can, literally we are flying, our helmets dangling behind us as big raindrops hit the trail ahead.

There’s narrow airy passages here too, that we have to pass through. Some are so narrow; we have to take our backpacks off. It all takes time, and no one wants to be here, for rocks really do fall around us and then accelerate down the slope.

Later as we keep descending the 1900m towards the town of Collonges in a valley deep down below, we slow the pace to save our legs and knees.

Due to the very technical and slow passage earlier that day, we haven’t met our intended daily distance. We don’t sleep in Collonges.

Instead, we set off up a vertical ascent – no zig-zag – just right up the mountain side, a challenge that makes our speed drop to nearly zero km/hrs.

We have to be careful. This is not just adventure, this could be dangerous, and we feel it, in this place that seems so distant from the rest of the world.

Night 5 – Thunderstorm

We keep going throughout the night – only with a half hour powernap in the forest. We talk all night whilst we walk, to keep ourselves awake…

As day becomes evening, the sky dramatically darkens and the clap of thunder rings through the mountains. We speed up our pace to get down from the heights as fast

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Day 6 – Last day

the atmosphere of a big race. Then ahead of us, the lights of Chamonix.

In the morning 274 km done, we come to Cabane Salanfe. There’s beds there. We jump into them, only to be woken up by a new arrival that snores so loudly, even earplugs don’t work. In the sunny forenoon we meet several runners – all of us excited to get the last part of the race done – for it’s just 43km more to the finish line in Chamonix.

At this time, nearing 3am, the streets are usually empty and silent. So, it’s heart touching and overwhelming to be met by friends who have left their beds to greet us on the finish line just before 3am.

There’s another person there breathing in the ambience of a middle of the night finish, for it was right here, right on the spot for great adventures, that I meet Jane the founder of Adventure She magazine.

But talking does not do the job. We jump back to reality and plan our last stage. We still have four more peaks with another 3000m of climbing.

The next day I join the crowds and hang out in the streets of Chamonix. I enjoy the atmosphere and celebrate the honor to be a finisher in this spectacular race. The PTL ceremony where all the runners and volunteers meet, hug and greet each other to the sounds of the traditional finishers cow-bell ringing constantly is particularly special.

Equipped with our usual bought lunch - a simple sandwich and a coke – stuffed into the pockets of our backpacks, we hit the trail.

The day goes slowly. We’re excited about getting back, we can’t wait, but we still need to concentrate and work. Our mood goes up and down throughout the day, where laughs and making fun is sometimes challenged with silence and short messages. I know we are now over- sensitive, and with feelings as the outer layer…We are touched though by the cheering from people we come across.

Reflections Looking back, I am so grateful I could be a part of the 290km PTL. Doing the PTL was really a one of a kind experience. To be a part of such an event and to be a part of the scenery, that was special!

Then, on our very last snow passage we it, an ibex. It’s wonderful.

For the statistics: I had the honor to be first Danish woman to finish PTL, and overall, for Danish finishers, we were no. 6 and 7.

After that we hook up with a Finnish team and slowly proceed towards the Chamonix valley and the end. But there is still another obstacle to come, as in the valley we meet a section of trail where we have to climb ladders. Even this late in the PTL, we are still being challenged mentally and physically.

The ladders make our hearts beat faster as we climb up them. We don’t want to fall now.

Night 6 – The finish Finally, it’s the last descent. We are no longer alone, all around us there’s headlamps from runners in the UTMB race. As they pass us, they cheer us on. After days alone in the distant mountains, this is a great way to do the last hard descent, for we too get to enjoy 90

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About Gitte Sveigaard Gitte Sveigaard is mid 40’s trail runner and the mother of two teenage sons, who live with her half of the time, at their home by the sea on what she describes as a “ tiny” Danish island.

Gitte describes herself as an “outdoor girl” who likes all activities such as trail running, sea kayaking, open sea swimming, hiking, mountain biking, outdoor CrossFit, yoga, climbing and camping. Being outside in nature is her favourite thing and is sure to make her “shine and smile!!”

She loves to explore and is always eager for a new adventure - even the local micro adventures in her “backyard", which she fits in to a busy week after work.

Like many of our writers this time around, Gitte doesn’t’ t really do social media.

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What A Woman Award Beth Pascall You’ve probably realised by now, that when we choose our quarterly ‘What A Woman’ we want more than an ordinary

adventurer, we look for a woman who’s on a mission.

Whether that mission is a physical one, or a

self-improvement / development mission, doesn’t matter to us.

What does matter, is she has a passion about what she’s doing and why she’s doing it.

Enter Beth Pascall, a doctor, who specialises in paediatric medicine. She’s also a sponsored elite ultra-runner.

How Beth manages to combine the pressures of working in a hospital with training for and racing at an elite level, is beyond our imagination. After all, many of those at the pointy end of the field in

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Pre race presentation of the pre race favourites

events like the UTMB, run for their living.

Contrast that with Beth, because for her living, Beth treats and saves the lives of children.

amidst full time runners.

A story had circulated that Beth Pascal wouldn’t be there, but she was.

The day prior to the UTMB, the race’s ten leading contenders (I understand based on ranking points), were presented to a packed crowd in Chamonix’s Place Triangle de l’Amitié.

Presentation over, I (Jane’s Adventure She magazine’s editor) followed the press pack to the interview session.

Who would I land amongst my interviewees? Well how lucky was I, for amongst them, I got to chat with Beth.

Armed with my press pass, I was in the front row, the stage right in front of me. Beth was called up onto the stage

The reason for the ‘story’ that she wouldn’t be there, was she’d been up at 3 to 4 am, cheering on a friend who was finishing

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the 145 kms, 9100 elevation gain TDS. The TDS may not have the cache of the UTMB’s name, but it is a serious race, going from Courmayeur in Italy, via Bourg Saint Maurice, to Chamonix. Rather than gushing about herself, Beth was talking about her friend.

Her friend wasn’t a podium placer or contender, but had still done really well. Beth’s thinking, it’s more impressive to be 36th than to win. You may wonder why would she say that?

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Her theory is the people at the back suffer more than the front runners, for the front runners have the support of the crowds, and external stuff too (we’re guessing here she might have been eluding to sponsorship deals and ranking points) to keep them going. Back of the packers though, they have to rely on their own personal will (and of course in some races like UTMB, TDS and CCC, though not OCC, support crew).

Beth figured she owed it to her friend to be there, for her friend had ben there for her in the past, and she wanted to repay

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the support her friend had previously show to her.

When you think about it, that’s huge. For here was Beth, a top contender for the UTMB (she was 4th in 2018), up at 3 to 4 in the morning on the Thursday, before the race’s 6pm start on the Friday.

I asked Beth about sleep and tiredness. Turns out, she gets more tired from working a 13hour shift, than she does from a 5hour run. As for lack of sleep, she’s suffered more from that at work, than when competing in ultras.

This and facing page – Vallorcine on the Saturday afternoon

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So how did she feel about the UTMB, after all she’d been 4th in Western States 100 mile race in June? (If you haven’t heard, the Western States is in California and is the world’s oldest 100 mile race. It started off as a race between riders on horseback, then one year, a rider whose horse was injured before the event, chose to run it himself).

“Excited more than nervous” came back the reply. She figures ultralong races suit her, for she has an endurance mindset and believes her

Adventure She magazine, Issue 10, June 2020

endurance personality really matters in long events. She gives an example, sharing how, when much younger, she cycled 100 miles to her grandparents’ house.

Why choose the UTMB? Her answer came quick and fast “the competition.

Yes, it’s a nice course, but other courses are nice too”.

She also emphasises how the support of the crowd also makes UTMB special. I understand, for the atmosphere here is truly phenomenal.

So how does she combine training with her work? Turns out her role

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(as at August 2019) is 60% of full time job, though when you include all the extra work she does including reading at home, it still means a 40 hour week. As for her training, she’s never really added up all the hours. When and how she trains, comes down to her shift patterns as a doctor.

So, you might be thinking, why award a 4th placer from Western States and a 5th placer from the 2019 UTMB, why not award the first placed woman?

The other women are amazing too, in fact I briefly chatted with the winner - Courtney

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Dauwalter - on our way into the interviews, and she was great. It’s that doctor thing that sets Beth apart, for she shows how we can combine a career and adventures.

Yes, it might take negotiation with employers, but in some ways isn’t everything in life a negotiation?

Besides, good negotiation skills are a trait worth lauding, for so much in life comes down to negotiation.

On top of that, when the Covid-19 crisis broke in the UK, Beth returned from a planned work break (taken so she could focus on her running) to work as a doctor.

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Post race celebrations – the top 10 women

So, with Covid-19 rampaging around so much of the world right now, what better recipient of our June 2020 What A Woman Award, than a medical professional who’s also a world class running adventurer? (I know, Rory Bosio is a nurse and she came 8th in the race, but I didn’t get to meet and talk with Rory, so sorry Rory, but Beth gets it, I think you’re super amazing too).

Now you might be thinking, but is Beth really an adventurer? Doesn’t she ‘just’ run trails?

Absolutely not, for together with Damian Hall, she also holds the fastest known time for the Cape Wrath Trail - 230 miles / 368 km from Fort William to Cape Wrath in the extreme NW of Scotland. The route involved bogs, river crossing, moors, mountains, and the occasional pub!

Their record, 4 days, 9 hours 43 minutes, knocked 3 days (bars 12 seconds) off the previous best time! Oh, and they did it in December! Beth definitely qualifies as an adventurer.

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So, to Beth and to all the people who’ve been working on the front line during this crisis and without whom, life would have been so much harder, a big huge thank you from Adventure She

Adventure She magazine, Issue 10, June 2020

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Adventure She Magazine’s June 2020 What A Woman Award

Beth Pascall and all our front line workers 97

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Adventure She magazine, Issue 11, September 2020

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Empower Educate Entertain

Featuring Rock climbing Mount Kenya Swimming Europe to Asia Cambodia’s Killing Fields Skiing the Haute Route Cycling Bolivia and lots more

Issue11, September 2020 www.adventureshe.com

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Price £5.00 for 1 issue or 4 issues for £15

Adventure She magazine, Issue 11, September 2020

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Welcome From Our Editor and ensuring the right person is entrusted with the delegated work. Rather than take charge of logistics for a mammoth experience, one Suzanne hopes will take her to the Seven Summits and both Poles, Suzanne’s delegating logistics to the experienced Rolfe Oostra. For Suzanne, climbing Mount Kenya with Rolfe and the local Kenyan guides, was a two way interview, an interview partly conducted whilst rock climbing at altitude.

Welcome to the September 2020, the 11th issue of Adventure She magazine.

What a year this is turning into. As the last issue got uploaded, I was really hoping the world was starting to return to normal.

Alas, it doesn’t look like we’ve seen the back of Coronavirus or Covid 19, to give its more accurate name.

If you’ve even wondered about rock climbing, Mikaela Toczek article about the joy of climbing and what she gets out of it by introducing others to climbing, is the one for you. Or, perhaps it’s ski touring you’ve set your sights on for this winter. Our cover person this month is Abbi Naylor, who writes about her experience ski touring on one of the world’s most classic ski tours, the Haute Route, and the role leadership styles had on her adventure. Philippa Ball Lewis is another who writes about winter, this time though it’s about hiking in winter.

Why is this article important? It’s because Phillipa reminds us both how easy it can be to get into a bad habit, and also, how when we put in the initial effort, we can overcome bad habits and instead make the most of the whole year, not just part of the year.

Another big topic of the moment is leadership, and how leaders from all fields, whether politics, medicine, business, tourism, or some other field, have been dealing with this crisis.

It made me think, what about us, what sort of leaders are we in our own sphere of influence. So you guessed it, the theme for this issue is leadership.

We’ve stories covering lots of different types of situations, including when a style of leadership leads to demonstrations, riots and water cannons, as Caroline Powell found in South America, to the consequences of when leadership becomes extremely tyrannical, as with the Khmer Rouge in Cambodia. Bea Meitiner sharing how visiting Cambodia has changed her life. Cambodia’s Angkor Wat was fortunately not too badly impacted by the Khmer Rouge’s reign of terror and is the subject of our UNESCO feature.

Some people see a BMI higher than the recommended range as limiting. Not so Catherine Wallis, who shows us how whatever our size, there are adventures and challenges out there for all of us. It’s all about finding out what motivates us and pursuing that goal. In other words, being our own leader, deciding upon a goal, setting a vision and working to achieve those, regardless of what others think or say. After all, who’s life are we living, our own, or theirs?

Like Bea Meitiner, another who’s recently taken charge of her life, and yes we think taking charge of one’s own life definitely qualifies as leadership, is Suzanne Turner.

Part of being a good leader though is knowing when to delegate responsibility a lifetime of body 2

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For others, ill health can be a limiting factor. Not so for obstacle and adventure racer Deanna Blegg, who’s the recipient of this quarter’s What A Woman award. She has achieved so much, both before and after being diagnosed with breast cancer, it was difficult knowing what to include, as in, what facts could potentially best help one or more of you who are out there and reading this magazine.

Another of my heroine’s is Pip Hare, who I interviewed last year (see the June 2019 issue for that article). Pip is about to head off on one of the most gruelling challenges in the world, the Vendee Globe, sailing single handed, nonstop, around the world.

9 year old Bethany Adams has been lucky enough to interview Pip and I am thrilled she agreed to share her experience of interviewing Pip. As for Pip, surely she will soon become front page news as the race sets sail in November and hopefully for all the right reason, her belief, her hard work, her focus, her tenacity and her leadership, for she’s really showing the rest of us how to go and seize our own dreams.

Events like the Vendee Globe need someone to set them up. So what type of person makes a successful race / event organiser. Last year I was fortunate enough to interview Catherine Poletti, cofounder of UTMB, probably the world’s greatest trail running festival. Apart from this year (another Coronavirus casualty) thanks to Catherine and her co-founders, thousands of competitors descend upon

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Chamonix during the last week of August for a trail running festival like no other. You will have to wait until the December issue to read my interview with Catherine, but I do hope you enjoy my article on what it was like to be with the press pack at last year’s UTMB. As well as book reviews, there’s one other article, a Q&A with Kat Owens. You may recall Kat’s article about living in India with her family, whilst doing research work.

This time Cat shares invaluable advice with us on how to apply for a Fulbright scholarship. I really hope Cat’s very kind and comprehensive tips will help some of you, should you ever wish to apply for a scholarship or study grant.

Remember, if you know someone with a story to share, regardless of their location, colour, religion, or experience, please do tell them about the magazine, and get them to message us via the contact page on our website www.adventureshe.com .

Happy reading everyone, I really hope you find this issue to be empowering, educating and entertaining.

Jane

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Adventure She is published by TNA Consulting Services Ltd, the address of the registered of which can be obtained from Companies House. The entire contents are protected by copyright and all rights are reserved. Reproduction without prior permission is forbidden. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of the magazine, but the publishers assume no responsibility in the effect arising therefrom, Readers are advised to seek professional advice before acting on any information which is contained in the magazine. Neither TNA Consulting Services Ltd nor Adventure She magazine accept any liability for 3 TNA Consulting Services Ltd. All Rights Reserved. andpictures used, or claims made. Copyright © 2020 views expressed,

From The

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In This Issue Of Adventure She Magazine Page 22 – Climbing Mount Kenya

Page 6 – Dodging Riots In South America

Page 42 Cambodia’s Killing Fields

Page 53 – UNESCO Feature, Angkor Wat

Page 58 –Interview with Pip Hare

Page 66 – Tips On Applying For A Fulbright Scholarship

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Lessons From On High - The Haute Route

Page 76 – Book Reviews

Page 94 – Part 2 of UTMB Race Week

Page 92 – Ski mountaineering Q&A with Abbi Naylor

Page 124 – The Joy of Climbing

Page 118- What A Woman – Deanna Blegg

Page 130 - Walking Into Winter

Page 136 – Swimming From Europe To Asia

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What’s it like to be part of the press pack at the world’s largest trail running festival. Last year our editor found out, when she made the most of an injured knee and instead of participating, joined the press pack at UTMB week.

that one’s full there’s two more amazing coffee shops next door and opposite.

Bingo.

Naia’s 16 and is on the USA team for Skyrunning. 16 with the composure of a happy, confident, yet gracious 25 year old.

How does she do it? I wish I had that composure now, let alone at 16. It’s not just me that’s impressed by her, later others talk about her in the same vein.

We chat for ages, but this isn’t scheduled at as interview, just a meet and chat. So I’m not telling stories. Naia’s great.

Sponsors are going to love her, she’s so personable. After we finish chatting, Naia takes it on herself to show me around, even pointing out the athletics track where I might find some athletes training, should I fancy some star gazing. She also walks me to the swimming pool.

Saturday 24 August I arrive in Chamonix. It’s already 9pm.

There’s no chance I’ll make it to that BBQ I’ve been invited to. I am shattered. I discover there’s no WIFI in my apartment!

Apparently WIFI provided means it’s available in the foyer of another apartment block in the same complex!!!!! Seriously.

Not happy. This is going to make live reporting difficult.

My knee might be a bit of a mess, but at least I can still swim and oh it’s bliss in the outdoor pool. The water is perfectly clear. The sky the most stunning shade of blue. The snowcapped peaks in the distance provide the most incredible of backdrops. This is the life.

Sunday 25 August The calm before the storm. Good strong coffee and a pancake breakfast at a café near the apartment. It’s a wonderful feeling chilling out here in Chamonix.

Sure I wish I didn’t have a sprain to my left miniscus (knee) and that I could do the OCC, after all that’s why I originally arranged to come here, but that’s life. I’m going to make the most of this week and relish the whole thing.

I’d posted in a local Facebook group, asking if anyone wanted to catch up. So it’s time to jump and get to my first catch up.

Monday 26 August Somehow I forgot about the 8am start of the 290km PTL race starting this morning right here in Chamonix. Bother. I’m sure that would have been very atmospheric as they all head off on their adventure.

Instead at 9am I’m having another wonderful catch up, this time with Jacqs Leui’I. She’d offered to show me some trails. I wish. Darn this knee.

Her name’s Naia Tower-Pierce. She and her family have been in the area a while now, so I suggest she chooses the venue.

That was a good move on my part. First day here and thanks to Naia, I learn the location of possibly Chamonix’s best coffee shop. What’s more, it’s close to where I’m staying. For a coffee loving injured runner, that’s a real find. Plus, if

Jacqs is a UK based New Zealander and lover of the mountains. She’s also passionate about helping rural communities in Nepal, communities far away from the trekking hubs and the trekking dollars. Turns out Unite for

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Nepal, a foundation set up in the UK, is her baby. She set it up (ok I’m taking this from the website so I get the wording absolutely right) “in response to community members from the Dudhakunda District approaching her to support a newly established Outreach Health Clinic in the area” Jacqs sees “ this as an opportunity to support those in rural and marginalised areas motivated to create change from within their communities but unable to access the resources required to do so”.

We chat and chat and chat. We chat so long and could chat so much more; we decide to meet up in London (and do so too).

Finally off to watch some racing. It’s the second running of the MCC today. The aim of this newish race encompassing 40 km and 2,300m of altitude gain, is to give locals, volunteers and UTMB partners an opportunity to participate.

The finish line is at the Place du Triangle de lAmitié. As runners approach the mammoth finish arch, runners will see the church of St Michel framed by the arch and its colourful banners, and standing guard behind that church, the French Alps. It really is a magnificent setting.

The atmosphere’s buzzing. People start to congregate to await the first finisher.

The sun is roasting hot. Too hot for me. I position myself as close as possible to the finish line, whilst still being in the shade.

By the time the first runner arrives, the atmosphere is electric. It’s truly sensational.

The winner arrives looking fresh as a daisy and then reran the finishing strait, high fiving the crowd.

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Behind the finish line is a core of press photographers.

I wonder if my press pass would get me in there? Only snag is, if I go to the press centre to collect it now, I’ll miss the leading women.

But having that pass would make such a difference, no more jockeying for position, battling to get anything approaching a half decent photograph. Perhaps I could just make it to the nearby hotel (that’s effectively UMTB HQ) and back in time?

Wow the hotel is luxurious.

Really old school. I could imagine an exceedingly glamourous episode of Agatha Christie’s Poirot being set here. The hotel has a room for the press to file their reports and of course free internet access – good job given the situation at my rather sparser accommodation. This is my first “assigment”. I feel so new and out of place, I’m not so much the new girl in school, as the person being shown around for a look. It’s ok I tell myself, I run a legitimate magazine, I belong here, even if it does feel strange.

19:30 and I’m back in the Place du Triangle de lAmitié for the prize giving. This time I’m sat in the press pen.

I’m sure my cameras gives away my novice status, but so what if I don’t have a (bought before going on holiday in 2013), will have to do.

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I’m so glad I came to Chamonix despite the knee and that I’m here in the Place du Triangle for this celebration, as the atmosphers is sensational. It’s not just prize winners called up onto the stage, but volunteers too.

It’s hard to believe Lucja used to be obese, she’s so toned and fit. Over coffee (actually uice for Zoe), Zoe tells Lucja how I’d organised that MDS training run and at the time, she couldn’t understand why I kept taking everyone up and down some horrendous climbs. I’d no idea Zoe was that new to ultra running. She’s really taken to it like a duck to water. She’s done loads of events since, including UTMB Oman.

Tuesday 27 August Early 2017 I met Zoe Pye. She, I and four others had met up for a training run prior to our going to the Sahara desert to participate in the Marathon des Sables (MDS). Zoe know Lucja Leonard, Gobi’s ‘mother’. Gobi is Chamonix’s most famous dog, for Lucja’s husband Dion Leonard rescued Gobi from the Gobi desert, during another ultra run.

Coincidentally Zoe and Lucja have flats in the same building. Both have also written for Adventure She. I personally find the two of them so inspiring.

In three days time they’ll be on the start line of the feature race, the UTMB race.

This year it’s 171 km with 10,000m of altitude gain. Oh to be 10 to 15 years and to have their energy and enthusiasm for life. I must not put myself down, instead I must focus on healing and getting strong again, so I too can once again hit the

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mountains. Lucja has to dash but Zoe and I stay on and chat. Zoe now has a coffee and explains she’s rationing herself to one coffee a day, so to make that coffee really count, she ensures it’s from her very favourite coffee shop. You guessed it, by now, we’ve moved on to that coffee shop. Why the rationing? So that her body forgets what it’s like to use caffeine. That way she figures, when she drinks coffee from the aid stations along the way during UTMB, the caffeine will have a greater hit on her body. I’m impressed at her diligence. She really is doing her best to control the controllables.

3pm and I meet Anita and her husband..

Like me Anita’s entered for the OCC, 56 km, 3500m altitude gain. We live comparatively close to each other and

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some months ago, did a couple of training sessions together. She’s done a lot of road marathons, whilst I’ve done none. I prefer wilder terrain, trail, mountains, views, over tarmac. I think I shocked her with the first training session I took her on all those months ago. You guessed it, it involved hill repeats. The other time wasn’t that though, simply a fun trail run.

right in the centre of Chamonix. I liked it.

I like all the cafes here. They all have something different to offer. This one’s very French. It’s almost as if I were in 1920’s Paris.

Coffee’s with Carrie Craig, who moved to the Chamonix valley not that long ago.

Meeting people like Carrie make me think, why am I in London? Why not live in the mountains? Could my battered and bruised body that these days appears to go from injury to injury, keep up with everyone else should I move here. Do I really want to start over again? After Hong Kong, Auckland, Sydney (ok just a secondment), back to Auckland and then Melbourn, I thought I was done with living overseas. Arghhhhhh. Oh decisions decisions.

Chatting to Anita is dangerous. She’s simultaneously exicted and nervous. Her excitement is infectious. Now I want to do the race. I can’t help myself. I knew this might happen, that’s why I deliberately didn’t bring a hydration system, or running shorts. We head off to the race village, a plethora of stands advertising races and stalls selling it. I’d received an email (thanks to being press) to visit Camelbak.

We chatted awhile. They very kindly gave me a water bottle and, a hydration system / race vest. It seemed really comfortable.

If I bought shorts, now I could do the race!

I somehow walked into an outdoor sports shop and bought a skort plus waterproof gloves. Surely all I now need is a knee bandage or some tape, something to hold my knee together and ease the pain. I see signs in a phamacy advertising these.

The pharmacist doesn’t agree with my theory. In fact, she gives me the politest lecture I’ve ever received, explaining she sees so many runners after they have finished who are now so injured, they wish they hadn’t attempted the race. I remember what my physiotherapist told me, how if I did the race, I was risking a rupture of my knee.

Carrie and I head off to the North Face store where ultra-runner Stephanie Howe who has a PhD in Nutrition & Exercise Science, from Oregon State University, is giving a talk. The shop is packed.

Because of my knee and my now inability to stand for long (clearly I walked too much yesterday), I’m given a place to sit.

Very kind of them. The breakfast they laid

Wednesday 28 August My knee hurts. Actually, it only hurts whenever I take a step, but it hurts with every step. I have no chance of starting the race tomorrow.

It’s an early start today, this time at a different café though, a rather grand one

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This page, Orsières Facing page, registration for the 2019 OCC in Orsières

on was good too. Turns out Stephanie Howe likes chocolate croissants. An elite runner who knows her way around nutrition, eating chocolate croissants! It only goes to show that we can have treats. It’s when treats become our standard food, that it’s an issue. Treats are good. Treats can motivate us. Treats are to be savoured.

So far it’s been go go go go go. Fun, but still work. Now I can relax, for it’s time for me to take the train / tram, plus two other trains, to Orsières in Switzerland. I’ve packed a small overnight bag. It doesn’t contain my running kit.

Last time I was in Orsières it was early August. The town struck me as being as quite as a grave. Then I discovered why it was so quiet, when walking past the church, out poured mourners. It

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appeared to be a town united in grieving one of its own. Today though was very different. Today runners were queued up outside a hall to collect their race numbers. These were the sensible runners, people who didn’t need to get up way pre-dawn, to take a chartered bus to the start. These were the runners who didn’t have to stand in a long queue in Chamonix to await their race numbers and to have their kit checked. These were the runners who would soon be able to chill out in this small Swiss town, carbo load, get to bed early, breakfast at leisure, before strolling a few metres to the start line.

Thursday 29 August

I think the runners went to bed early, for the restaurant where I’m eating dinner is very quiet. Mind you, being a gregarious introvert, whilst I love some company and interaction, I also need quiet time. I make the most of the quiet time unexpectedly presented to me.

I take photos, lots of them, trying to remember to photographer the non elite as well as the elite and particularly, to get semi decent photos of some of the women. Having been towards the tail end of a few events, I know what it’s like to go round the course seeing almost no official photographers, as they follow the leaders.

I’m actually relieved I’m not racing today.

What had I been thinking on Tuesday?

The central square in Orsieres is buzzing by the time I get there, having had a lie in and breakfast. I’m so glad I wasn’t on the press bus from Chamonix just after 5am.

Instead, I’m meeing it after the start.

In the square the athletes are in a variety of states, ranging from calm to terrified, revelled up to sleepy, the contenders and those hoping to make the interim cutoffs and make it all the way to Chamonix.

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OCC race start, 2019

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I’m told off, though quite politely.

Apparently there’s a gradiing system for the press. My pass is the lowest level. I’m in the way of THE main photographer. Oops, rookie error. Must try and avoid doing that gaff again. Don’t want to lose my credentials.

First stop for the press bus, breakfast in Champex Lax. I remember hiking and jogging the climb from Orsieres to this place.

It is mostly unrellenting uphill.

The leaders make the approximately 10 km in almost no time at all. Despite skipping a second breakfast, I didn’t manage to get photos of the top athletes, they were that fast. I did however capture shots of some still fast runners. It took me a while though to find the right place, so the sun didn’t glare and the shot was as scenic as possible.

It’s now I identify a snag with being on the press bus. We keep moving on to follow the fastest runners. Problem is, that means I don’t get to see as many women or the non elite men. Um, how to resolve this cunundrum? For now there’s nothing I can do. I resolve to take whatever photos I can and enjoy this experience.

After all, being driven around is great. Really convenient. I can’t image trying to do this and drive a car.

On the drive to Triente I force myself to sleep. It was either that, or vomit. I don’t make a good passenger on windy

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mountain roads. Thank goodness I’d skipped second breakfast.

Triente is a treat. Plenty of time for a variety of photos, runners legging it down to the town, runners with the pink church in the background and runners at water troughs, guzzling water, refilling bottles, squeezing soaking wet sponges over their heads. The speed at which the leaders go through is phenomenal. It’s the same at the next stop, the aid station at Vallorcine. It’s fascinating seeing the cameramen, clearly fast runners themselves, momentarily running alongside the leaders, trying to get the

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best shots. It’d never thought about this before. Clearly making films about races takes a lot of planning, including using camera operators who can keep a steady hand whilst running full pelt.

long since finished. Those still on the course are amazing. They have plenty of time to make it to Chamonix before the 42 hour time limit, but they do need to keep on moving. They may be ‘almost’ there, but there’s still more mountains to deal with. Apart from the path next to the lake in Champex, there’s no easy kilometres in UTMB week. Seeing these runners is a bonus. After all, it’s impossible for one person to be everywhere and cover everything in UTMB week. I’m glad I haven’t totally missed the TDS.

One more stop, this time for a picnic sandwich in the mountains. There’s only a few of us on this press minibus, put on by the race organisers. Away from the villages and aid stations, it’s quiet here.

Each of us finds or own vantage point.

The runners seem surprised, happy to see us, especially those doing the TDS.

There’s also some of the fast people from the OCC. Not the leaders, we stayed too long in Triente and Vallorcine to see them, but other seriously superb athletes. I love seeing so many different participants.

Each one of them has trained so hard to

The TDS started yesterday from Courmayeur in Italy at 4am. It’s 145 km with 9,100 m of ascent. There’s 1,600 people doing it, with a maximum time allowed of 42 hours. The winners have

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be here, all of them deserve to be celebrated.

One last look at the mountains and it’s time to head to the finish line in Chamonix. I am so glad I’ve taken the opportunity to go on the press bus. It’s been really insightful and a fabulous way to learn about different vantage points and where I can and can’t go. Plus, in a way, I feel a part of the experience. It was the right call not to attempt to run the OCC today.

At the finish line of the OCC New Zealander Ruth (Charlotte) Croft is the winning female. She’s made it look effortless, as does the winning man, who does a cartwheel. Darn, I mainly miss the photo. One of the other men collapses as he finishes. Was that through exhaustion, or relief? The winning man finishes

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are harder than others, actually a lot harder. But there’s a race, or a challenge, or an event out there for all of us. Whether we win or lose, so what, unless of course sport is one’s profession when winning takes on a whole other significance. What matters is that we all get out there and do what we can with our one precious life, that we seize those moments to make our life the best it can be.

Moments before one of the TDS competitors. It’s wonderful to see their interaction, the mega elite congratulating the amazingly fit, the winner congratulating the participant.

I may not have run the OCC today, but I feel I was a part of it. Seeing the joy on the finishers’ faces, particularly the later ones, when a ‘photographer’ approached them and asked to take their photographs, finishers that may have crossed the line after the mainstream media had gone home, that was special. I really hope as many as possible of them get to see these photos. .

It is party time at the finish line, participants rejoicing as they achieve a goal which has taken so much work, not just in training for this race, but also in training for and doing qualifying events, so they had enough points to enter the ballot, in the hope that their name might come up and they could take part in UTMB week.

More from Jane’s UTMB diary in our December issue.

I feel it’s a privilege to be here, to be a part of this atmosphere. I haven’t captured all the finishers, as late afternoon / early evening, I headed off to a press conference, wanting to learn more about UTMB the whole week, the whole brand, and also got to interview some of the athletes. But I’ve tried to capture as many of the tail ending women as I could, all of them amazingly fit. For that is what I am learning, Races aren’t just for the elite; they are for everyone. True some races

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Adventure She is a brand of TNA Consulting144 Services Ltd, London, SW18, United Kingdom

Adventure She magazine, Issue 14, August 2021

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Adventure She Empower Educate Entertain

Featuring Interview with Vendee Globe sailor Pip Hare Controlling Fear in the Pyrenees India’s Little Tibet Volunteering in Serbia Hiking to Rome and lots more

Issue 14, August 2021 www.adventureshe.com

1 Price £5.00 for 1 issue or £15 for all 3 of 2021’s issues

Adventure She magazine, Issue 14, August 2021

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Welcome From Our Editor noticed in various outdoor / adventure groups on social media, is a lack of respect for local cultures and local economies, with people being more focused on their own personal satisfaction that on considering the culture, heritage, landscape, economy, and people, of the places they are visiting.

So we’re very glad to include Sal Bolton’s story about Waka canoeing with the Māori in New Zealand. Sal is very interested in learning about people from a culture different to her own. Of course, we can’t learn everything from one article, or one day, or even one month or a year. So please, if there’s any Māori or other indigenous people reading this, it would be great if you could share more with us about your culture.

Welcome to the August 2021, the 14th issue of Adventure She magazine.

You might be wondering, how do I in my role as editor, choose a theme for each issue? The answer is a mixture of the stories that land on my desk, and what’s going on in the world. This time around ‘control’ leapt out at me. What can we control, what can’t we control? No doubt the lack of control I had over shoulder pain from which I was suffering, influenced my choice of theme this time around. I couldn’t control the shoulder injury, but I could control seeking out help from doctors and physiotherapists. I also took control over the publication date and decided given the pain I was in; publication of this issue would have to wait. You see, using a keyboard and a mouse exacerbated the pain. So thank you everyone for putting up with me and for waiting patiently for this issue.

Another who was interested in learning more about the indigenous population is Lenka Hanzelova who was eager to learn more about the Tibetan way of like by visiting Tibet. We can’t control when accidents happen, but we can control our reaction to accident. Lenka may not have made it to Tibet, but she did the next best thing, learning about the plight of Tibetans in northern India, where the Dalai Lama and many other Tibetans have sought sanctuary.

Whilst following an ancient map in Ecuador, Jo Costello found she couldn’t control her altitude sickness. But she could control how she dealt with the situation.

Carlota Salazar couldn’t control the crowds she knew she’d find on the Camino Frances to Santiago de Compostela during August, but she could control her own decision making processes, choosing to hike to Rome instead. Jessica Stone couldn’t control the roads in Guatemala, but she could take control her motorcycling ability through step by step increments.

Another amazing example of what taking control over our life and our decisions can result in, is Pip Hare. She’s the big interview this time around. I am sure you will both love and be inspired by what she reveals regarding her Vendee Globe campaign.

During the COVID-19 pandemic which alas is still all around us, many in person talks moved online. One was the 2021 Micro lectures organised by the Royal Geographical Society’s Younger Member’s Committee. This time around instead of a book review (a bumper edition of which will be back big time in our December issue), Ellen Piercy has reviewed these micro lectures. Like her, I very much hope that talks will continue to be streamed online, so people all over the world can access them, and accessibility isn’t restricted to those living nearby.

Another victim of the pandemic has been many mass participation sporting events.

As such, I’ve waited before publishing the third and final instalment of my 2019 UTMB

One thing we all have control over is whether we show respect to locals during a our lif adventures. Alas a growing trend I’ve 2

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diary, choosing to hold it back until just before the next event. Well I’m happy to say UTMB week looks like it’ll be taking place at the end of this August, so part 3 of three UTMB trilogy is now here for all of you to enjoy. If you are a trail runner / UTMB fan, hopefully the trilogy will enhance your enjoyment as you’re dot watching your favourite runners on the last weekend of this August.

Due to shortage of space, our UNESCO feature is a short one. Let’s just say though that running around Rome is a fabulous way of exercising and practising map reading, whilst exploring this amazing UNESCO world heritage site. Adventure She’s What A Woman award is however here in all its full glory. I hope you agree that octogenarian windsurfer Anastasia Gerolymatou, deserves it. Her story isn’t just about windsurfing, it’s also about resilience and tenacity during tough times.

I think we can all learn from her.

Another person who’s been through tough times is Martha Rose Ormerod. Many people are too scared to talk about mental health issues. That’s why we are particularly grateful to Martha Rose for sharing her story, of getting into cycling as a step towards taking back control over her life and as a way of helping her deal with post-traumatic stress. We need more people like her to destigmatise mental health issues, so that talking about them becomes are normal as discussing physical health issues, whether minor like a broken toe or major like a heart transplant.

Martha shares about Taff Trail Of course many people in the world aren’t as fortunate as us. They don’t have access to clean water, health services, or peaceful governance in their country. For some of them, they see the only possible

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way forward, the only way to survive, is to up and leave their homeland. Having taken back control by leaving famine, war, or oppression, many then lose all control, over their own destiny, whilst waiting at or near various borders. Adventure She magazine doesn’t do politics. We do however want to share stories about this world. One person who took control over her life during lockdown is professional organist Hannah Parry. She chose to try and help people who currently have so little control over their own destiny but heading off to help in the camps of first France and then Serbia, so she could try and help some of those people currently stuck. .

Now my apologies, there’s a lot from me in this issue. Why? Because Adventure She tries to have a range of stories and cover a range of activities. Fearing there wasn’t enough adventure stuff this time around, I’ve included an article on learning to take control over my fears, whilst doing Via Ferrata. Please do keep sending me your stories, for it’s great when Adventure She magazine can share them, for there’s so many stories out there that deserve to be told, plus I’m sure you’d like to read stories by women far more interesting than me.

Plus when we share our stories, we share a greater depth of knowledge and different perspectives, things which are surely good to share.

Here’s to empowering, educating, and entertaining each other.

Jane Front cover courtesy of Pip Hare Back cover by Richard Langdon/Ocean Images

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Adventure She is published by TNA Consulting Services Ltd, the address of the registered of which can be obtained from Companies House. The entire contents are protected by copyright and all rights are reserved. Reproduction without prior permission is forbidden. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of the magazine, but the publishers assume no responsibility in the effect arising therefrom, Readers are advised to seek professional advice and before acting on any information which is contained in the magazine. Neither TNA Consulting Services Ltd nor 3 Adventure She magazine accept any liability for views expressed, pictures used, or claims made. Copyright © 2021 TNA Consulting Services Ltd. All Rights Reserved.

From The

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Topics In This Issue Of Adventure She Magazine Page 6 – Tough Times In Ecuador

Page 16 - Controlling Fear In The Pyrenees

Page 30 – Hiking To Rome

Page 39 – UNESCO Feature – Running Rome

Page 40 – Interview With Pip Hare

Page 56 - Control 96

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Page 64 – UTMB – Part 3

Page 60 – Chernobyl, Micro Lectures, And the Royal Geographical Society

Page 96 – What A Woman

Page 84 – Exploring Guatemala

Page 102 – India’s Little Tibet

Page 114 – Waka Canoeing With The Māori

Page 134 – Cycling And PTSD

Page 124 – Volunteering In France And Serbia 5

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UTMB Week – Part 3 Words and photos by Jane Harries Finally, it’s here. The third and final part of Adventure She magazine’s UTMB week trilogy. We know it’s been a long time coming, but then again, it wouldn’t be fair if our editor hogged the whole magazine, so we’ve made her wait before publishing this article. Actually including it now is rather timely, as like many races, UTMB week was cancelled in 2020. So this report remains from the most recent year in which the race was held. Hopefully the COIVD-19 numbers will be low enough to allow it to go ahead, but with new variants surfacing, who knows?

So let’s enjoy a journey back in time to 2019, when social distancing, face masks, and lockdown, weren’t really in our vocabulary.

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Thursday evening

world’s best ultra-trail runners. This is a race they all want to win.

Chamonix’s Triangle de l'Amitié was buzzing, for that’s what happens when there’s three parties going on at the same place at the same time. OCC and TDS participants and their families celebrated, as runners from those two races ran, walked, and staggered the last few hundred metres through the town. As they approached the finish line the crowds of supporters, both local and visitors, got deeper. Relief at finishing, celebrations all around, the joy they felt was infectious. Apart from those runners crying from relief and exhaustion, everyone else was on a high from vicariously living the success of these runners, who by this time, were all amateurs, fun runners, if very dedicated and focused fun runners.

The red hot women’s favourite was Courtney Dauwalter, a 34 year old from the USA, who until two years previously had combined her running with teaching middle school and high school in Denver Colorado. Famous for her running in baggy shorts, could or would anything stop her from winning this race?

The other fancied runners included Beth Pascall, a doctor from the UK (and the winner of our June 2020 What A Woman Award).

Presentations over, it was time to move on to a nearby hotel for the interviews. I’d put myself down to interview Courtney Dauwalter, so on finding myself walking alongside her to the hotel where the interviews were being conducted, I merely made small talk about her shorts. Stupid me. I lost her in the crowd and in doing so, had lost my chance of interviewing her.

But I did get interviews with Russian Ekaterina Mityaeva, Dr. Beth Pascall (see our June 2020 issue for more on her) and Catherine Poletti herself, yes that Catherine Poletti, one of the cofounders of the UTMB race and this whole illustrious week.

Meanwhile a few yards away, the fancied runners in the men and women UTMB race, the week’s biggest race, were about to be introduced to the waiting crowds.

In front of the UTMB stage lay the press pen. Right in the middle of the pen, in the best position, I sat on the ground. As time for the introductions approached, other members of the press fraternity joined me. They had more experience than me, and far better cameras, but I had the best position. Me, a newby at this game.

Timing as they say is everything, and I had got here early, hence my spot.

Back in the square, runners were still coming in, mass relief and happiness all over their faces. The crowds though were starting to dissipate. I’m glad I hung around and took photo after photo, for most of the press had long since gone. Yet here were the runners who had suffered for the longest hours out on the course, e.g., the fastest man completed the 145km with 9,100m of elevation TDS race in 18 hours 3 minutes and 6 seconds.

Contrast that with the effort needed by the slowest finisher, who had to

One by one the five highest ranked men and women were presented to the awaiting crowd of adoring fans. I snapped away with my camera, admiring the poise of these athletes, on the eve of a race which if they won, could lead to pages of press coverage, better sponsorship deals and the knowledge they had beaten the world’s best. For the UTMB attracts the

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sustain that effort for the 41 hours 8 minutes and 39 seconds which it took them to complete the race, over twice as long as the winner. These finishers also deserved to be lauded at the finish and to have their success recorded by the press. [Editor’s note – see our September 2020 issue for photos of the OCC racers and this issue for TDS finishers].

Ekaterina Mityaeva

Friday 30 August 2019 - 5.30pm Days of summer heat had given way to rain. Not much, just enough for many of the UTMB runners in their holding pen, to have donned their lightweight rain jackets. With 30 minutes to go and the skies having darkened, would the runners have to cope with rain and slippery trails, possibly turning muddy especially for the slower participants?

I felt for them, about to head out into the mountains for anything up to 46 hours and 30 minutes (the maximum time allowed).

Dr Beth Pascall

Yet the rain didn’t dampen the spirits of the runners, as they waited for the start. Behind them years of training, of multiple other ultra-races to gain enough qualifying points for this event, and then the stresses and strains of waiting to hear whether the name had been drawn in the ballot. Now they were here, finally on the start line of what might be their biggest ever race experience. Nor did the rain dampen the crowd’s enthusiasm and support for their running heroes, for every inch of space was taken, with balconies overlooking the start packed.

Race co-founder and race director Catherine Poletti

As Vangelis’ Conquest Of Paradise boomed out of the huge loudspeakers, I snapped away with my camera and as I did so, inadvertently found myself amongst the participants. I was being carried along with the throng of the mid

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and back of the pack runners, as they slow walked those last few metres to the huge start banner, when their timing chips would be activated. Oh to have been a participant, heading off for 171 km and 10,000m of elevation gain around Mont Blanc, before returning to Chamonix. If only I weren’t injured. If only I were fit enough to do this. If only I were one of them.

I couldn’t do anything about the injury I’d sustained, and which had put me out of the OCC race held the previous day. But I could control how I managed my recovery from injury, and I could control my attitude. I promptly stopped the momentary pity game and instead returned to relishing the fact I was here at all and that I had a ticket for the press bus.

Friday 30 August 2019 - Saint-Gervais A mere 21km into the race the press bus had its first stop. Here the town was out in force. Pavement cafes full, first floor balcony tables in high demand thanks to their bird’s eye view of the course below. We were early and got escorted to a bar for drinks.

Someone though was dot watching, and with plenty of time to spare we all lined up for the best view possible.

The leading woman, Miao Yao from China, wasn’t far behind the leading men. The Chinese camera crew looked happy. Later though she started slipping down the field and was ultimately a DNF. Had she gone off too fast? Was she injured? Was it the altitude? Was it the heat from earlier in the day, had that got to her?

Perhaps cramp, or stomach ache?

Who knows? Not me. There in Saint Gervais she was flying and like the

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Adventure She magazine, Issuestart 14, August 2021 Participants amassing for the race

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The start line

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Checkpoint 2 - The all important race volunteers

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rest of the front runners and the volunteers, most efficient at the aid station. That’s the thing though with ultra-running, a strong start doesn’t mean a strong finish,

Friday 30 August 2019 – Les Contamines Montjoie Darkness waits for no one. Just as darkness makes no compromises, neither does injury. The next scheduled stop for us involved a gorge walk.

With my meniscus torn, for me, that was not going to happen.

Lucky for me, Mr Bus Driver very kindly dropped me off in Les Contamines Montjoie.

If Saine-Gervais was celebrating the race, Les Contamines Montjoie was

Checkpoint 2 – Saint -Gervais The leading woman - Miao Yao refills her water bottles with the help of a volunteer

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celebrating it on steroids. The vibe was incredible. I can really only compare it to Christmas cross Après Ski rolled into one, but with warmer weather.

Street entertainment at Saint Gervais

This was also the first place support crew could meet up with their runners and provide them with food, change of clothes, shoes, massage, whatever the asked for. The race was still early, and the field of runners not yet totally strung out. In other words, it was busy. After all, no crew wanted to miss their runner and miss the chance of giving them whatever gear they’d need to get them through the night stage high up in the mountains.

As from here, the runners would be heading off to Italy via some serious climbs, including the Col Du Bonhomme before climbing up to the French – Italian border at Col de la Seigne.

It’s dark by checkpoint 3

So this time the leaders were ready for a bit more of a break and a feed. Looking around at the runners, I realised one of the currently highest placed women Kristin Berglund - hadn’t been amongst the fancied runners. The efficiency with which she and her support crew (restricted to one inside the tent at the checkpoint), did the necessaries, was to be admired. She looked strong too, even if the outline of her headtorch was clearly indented on her forehead.

I felt sorry for the runners, the likes of me pointing a camera at them, going snap snap snap, as they

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To avoid overcrowding in the help zone at Les Contamines Montjoie, support crew wait for their runner to near the checkpoint, before being allowed into the assistance tent.

Female winner Courtney Dauwalter checkpoint 3

She might not have been in the 10 most fancied runners before the start, but with her second place, Kristin Berglund showed the power of performance on the day.

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A moment’s tenderness before heading out over the Alps

Tape helps hold some runners together

13th place finisher Maifa Oravamäki

They right amount of hydration is key to performing at one’s best

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When I’d booked my accommodation, I’d booked it on the basis I’d be participating in the OCC. Having a press pass hadn’t entered my mind.

Of course, by the time things changed, the small apartment (with no wifi much to my horror, apparently wifi in reception, which was in another building, was sufficient to meet the ‘with Wi-Fi requirements’) I’d booked, in fact every apartment in that complex, was full. It had been great staying in Chamonix, right in the thick of things. But by now I was exhausted. The previous day I’d taken myself off for coffee and cake in the peace and calm of nearby Argentiere, at this time of year a laid back village, though goodness knows what it’s like in ski season, for it’s even higher up than Chamonix and has multiple ski lifts. There amongst the pot plant flowers I rejuvenated myself. I also happened to find a hotel with a vacancy. I couldn’t believe my luck.

Even better, it was gorgeous. Really gorgeous.

grabbed some food or changed their water bottles. But how else does one share the true story of a race, of the work that goes into the race, of how important checkpoints are, in terms of not wasting time, but spending enough time to do what’s needed, be it eating, refilling water bottles, going to the toilet, having a hug, or a motivational pep talk, changing kit even shoes, or something entirely different.

I could have stayed there for hours watching the runners and their teams.

So few press people were there, I was allowed into the Zone A access area, even though my pass was a mere level D. Here is where one could really see what was going on, for even if I couldn’t hear or understand them, for multiple languages were flying around, there was still body language to read between runner and their support crew. I needed to move on though, for the organisers had laid on a late dinner for us at a restaurant in town.

Race organisers understood different press people had different needs and wanted different shots. So post dinner there was two options, one to return to Chamonix for a quick sleep, before heading out again, or, to keep following the runners through the night, including a hike up to a stunning viewpoint. Clearly the hike was out for me. But I also decided to forgo the other option. It had been brilliant following the lead runners so far, and all day for the OCC race earlier in the week. Now though I wanted to see more than just the front runners, I wanted to follow the mid and back of the pack. After all, two of them had written for Adventure She, I wanted to support them if I could.

Saturday 31 August -Vallorcine So now I lugged my bags onto the tram style train to Argentiere. After more coffee and cake I trained it to Vallorcine, the last checkpoint where runners can meet with their support crew during the UTMB. I’d been following the runners online. It was already Saturday afternoon, and I knew I’d missed the leading men and the leading woman, Courtney Dauwalter, but I’d already seen them last night. I wanted to see the likes of Dr. Beth Pascall and Russian Ekaterina Mityaeva, whom I’d interviewed on the Thursday evening.

How were they faring? Was Kristin Berglund still looking strong? What about the other women? Did it look like the last few kms to Chamonix would change the placings?

Saturday 31 August - Argentiere

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Medical volunteers ready to help when needed

Family members supporting their runner at Vallorcine on the Saturday afternoon

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2nd placed Kristin Berglund looking good at Vallorcine, the final checkpoint where runners could meet their support crew.

3rd placed Maite Maiora seemed untroubled by the heat. Behind her Ekaterina Mitvaeva’s support crew awaits her arrival.

4th placed Ekaterina Mityaeva raced through the Vallorcine checkpoint, and in so doing passed Beth Pascall, who’d entered the checkpoint in 4th place.

5th placed Dr Beth Pascall and her support crew, doing their stuff in front of the cameras

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Following runners and getting their photographs takes time and patience.

Boredom though was something I didn’t suffer from, for there was simply too much to take in and so many wonderful support teams to chat with, like Frances, Mike and their family from the UK and Haley from the USA who was supporting her brother Ryan.

Soon though chitter chatter had to give way, for the runners we were all watching came in.

on the shutter of my camera. No such barrier though for the official race camera crew.

Whilst Beth got some calories in, Russian Ekaterina Mityaeva came, refuelled, and went. She too looked tired, but on a different level. Mind you, wouldn’t most people look tired if they’d just run 150 km around a mountain chain in well under 24 hours? Actually, very few people in the world could probably achieve such a feat.

The previously unheralded Kristin Berglund was still good. Likewise the smiling third place woman, Spain’s Maite Maiora. Perhaps that’s why they were lying in second and third place, for the then in currently lying in fourth place, Dr, Beth Pascall looked tired. I so felt for Beth, for she had to eat her pasta in front of cameras galore. At least I was several metres away and behind a cordon, whilst clicking away

The runners may not have been able to control their tiredness, for a lot of the men also looked spent. But they could control their kit and their food intake. At least, those in front of me could eat and drink something.

Elsewhere some runners were struggling to keep anything down.

Haley Ghelfi liasing with her runner, brother Ryan, prior to his arrival at Vallorcine

Haley helping her brother Ryan

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With food stalls outside and a train connecting Vallorcine to Argentiere and Chamonix, it would have been very easy for me to stay there. But it was time to find and support some of the main field, for they too deserved to be supported and lauded.

First though, having foregone the press bus, I needed to queue up with everyone else for the general race bus. The organisers were so efficient, they even had a timetable printed up.

Alas, more people wanted to head across the French – Swiss border to Trient and Champex-Lac, than there were seats. I was lucky, to get one of the very last seats on the bus. Seeing how crowded it was and the queue at Trient hoping to climb onboard, I chose not to disembark there, but to continue to Orsières. There it was a bus change for the uphill to Champex-Lac. This time there was no seat for me, merely floor space. I’ve sat on the floor of trains and buses before, so that was no problem for me. At least I’d managed to get on the bus.

This page and opposite, runners approaching Champex Lac on the Saturday evening.

Saturday 31 August -Champex-Lac In the mountains, a hot day can mean afternoon or evening thunderstorms. It had been hot, very hot, with the sun blasting all its rays down on the Alps that afternoon. Now with evening approaching storm clouds were amassing. I heard claps of thunder and felt for the runners out there in those mountains some distance away, from whence those thunderclaps came. The poor runners would surely be drenched just as they were heading into their second night. Not ideal.

Plus what state would the trail be in?

Would it turn to mud for the runners to slip and slide on? Not something they’d want to contend with? Would there be water run off? Would their

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feet be encased in soaking wet muddy shoes, making blisters an even greater threat?

These were all things they couldn’t control. All they could control was the kit they had with them. What quality rain gear did they have? Did they have enough batteries? Food wise were they carrying the right snacks, should they need something between checkpoints?

Were they walking / running with someone else and thereby be able to save some mental energy by taking the turns in leading, as they headed into their second night?

In Champex Lac though there was no visible sign of the rain. Here the overwhelming sense appeared to be one of relief at seeing their support crew, relief at making another cut off and with time to spare, and relief at being able to sleep for a while on a cot in a ‘sleep zone’.

Saturday 31 August -Chamonix I’d grand plans of heading back to Vallorcine and seeing Zoe Pye and Lucja Leonard. Both of them have written for Adventure She magazine, and I wanted to show them my support. Alas it was not meant to be, for sleep ruled. That’s the thing I find with collapsing into bed way into the early hours for several nights running, it gets to the point when I simply can’t get up when I want to. So rather than risk missing them altogether, I ate yet more cake and drank yet more coffee in chilled out Argentiere, before heading to buzzing Chamonix.

Surprise surprise. Crowds thronged the street. The winners had finished the previous afternoon, but still the crowds hung around, cheering in each

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This page and opposite, runners celebrating completing the UTMB on the Sunday afternoon

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participant who’d made it this far, whether they were running, jogging, walking, limping, or crawling – ok, not crawling, I didn’t see any crawling.

could cause a wet trail to turn into a muddy trail. Why on earth do some race organisers think a 6th placed man should be recognised but not a 6th placed woman?

The joy on the faces of each participant as they made their way up the last few metres to the grand finish arch, was immense. Each one of these people will have devoted so much time and effort into finishing their qualifying races and then training for this event itself. Sacrifices will have been made along the way.

I sat there, right at the centre of the press pen. The joy of most of the podium athletes was palpable, thrilled with their achievement. Dare I say it, a few did look tired though. Not surprising really.

All that was left, of UTMB week was the after party. I may not have run a race, but I too was shattered. I’d done enough socialising during my time in Chamonix. What I needed now was sleep. So I left the racers and their support crews to their party and headed off to bed with thought of how could I recover quickest from my knee injury, how could I regain my running fitness so I could build up to and survive enough qualifying races, how could I be a true part of this week, rather than an observer? Watching was good, but oh, to have been a part of it would have been ever better.

Successfully completing an event like UTMB takes tenacity, perseverance, grit. And then there’s those who are timed out, right at the end. One woman, arrived to discover she’s been timed out, there was no UTMB finishers gilet for her. She was distraught. I overheard her say she’d been told at the last checkpoint it was ok, she could continue. Somewhere there must have been a mix up. She was told she hadn’t completed the challenge in the time allowed. She hadn’t successfully finished the UTMB. Goodness knows how many blisters she had, or what pain she’d endured, enroute to the finish line. She’d done the miles and metres, but not in within the maximum time allowed of 46 hours and 30 minutes.

UTMB knows how to through a party.

Whilst the recent finishers still looked bedraggled, the winners had enjoyed a night’s sleep, shower, and sparkling clean clothes. Now was their moment, the podium presentations, but unlike the Olympics, at UTMB the top 10 women and men are invited onto the podium. Hopefully other race organisers will take note, if 10 men are lauded, then 10 women should also be lauded. After all, they run the same course. If anything, conditions for women are harder, as the leading men

Adventure She contributor Zoe Pye after completing the UTMB

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This page: Courtney Dauwalter 2019 Female Winner stepping onto the stage for the victory presentation Opposite page Top: The top 10 men and women at the 2019 UTMB Middle: These two have successfully completed every UTMB race that’s been held

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Bottom: Time to say goodbye from the UTMB crew

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Feat u r i n g Cr ossi n g Om an 's Em p t y Qu ar t er H i k i n g t h e Ar ct i c w i t h d ogs M al ay si a's M ah M er i

Al so i n cl u d i n g: M ou n t ai n bi k i n g t h e W h i t e Ri m Tr ai l Ex p l or i n g t h e Si m p son Deser t Ru n n i n g ar ou n d W al es & l ot s m or e

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InThis Issue THEBIGRED

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Issue 7, September 2019

FromtheEditor How many times have you heard someone lament "if only I had" or "I though of that first but ..." I've heard those phrases a lot, for I'll admit it, I've uttered them quite a few times.

Wright did despite what the naysayers said. If you think you recognise the name, yes it's the Katie Wright who earlier this year became the first woman to win a last man standing running event.

Our UNESCO feature also comes from Wales.

The thing is, it doesn't matter what we have done in the past, whether we have utilised opportunities or let them go, we can still seize any opportunities that come our way in the future.

You guessed it, the theme for this issue is seizing the moment.

Sometimes I dream of heading off like Katie Wright on a long distance challenge. But then start worrying about my dog. How could I possibly leave her behind for such a long time?

Well thanks to Rachel Frei Bandieri, I no longer need to leave my labrador behind, for Rachel shares how she and her two rescue dogs hiked 700 kms in the Arctic. Whether or not you are a dog lover, her tips and tricks are definitely worth checking out.

Post divorce, Belle Sinclair seized the moment to do up a canal boat and travel widely. Here she writes about crossing Australia's SImpson Desert.

On finding herself single at 52, Sally Doyle took up cycling. She now runs cycling holidays in Spain and here shares her experience of cycling across England between sunrise and sunset. Family prompted Jo Turner, her sisters and cousins to have a girls weekend including a 'home made triathlon'. Yes, albeit it a differet way, all three articles share the theme of seizing the moment and making the best of one's new found situation.

If your children rather than pets keep you from long distance hiking, meet the Robinson family.

Hannah, then aged 9 and a half, spent last Christmas hiking with her parents in Tasmania.

Hopefully her story will inspire more families to go hiking together.

One person who knows how to seize the moment is Sarah Williams. I asked to interview Sarah about her trip cycling the Pacific Coast Highway and Baja California, but ended up getting so much more.

The Mah Meri Aboriginal people of Malaysia are in a different situation, for their home and culture is under threat from industrial development.

Nuraini Arsad explores how they are seizing the moment to embrace tourism, as a means of trying to keep their culture alive.

What do you do when your 'moment' is snatched away and instead you end up in hospital with several fractured and and one crushed vertebrae?

Enter the world of Janey McGill who shares her story from breaking her back, to hiking 500 miles across Oman's Empty Quarter.

If you prefer your adventure more physical than cultural, Judy Thomas's article on the do's and don't of cycling Utah's White Rim trail is for you.

Or, if you fancy a longer adventure, how about running around my homeland, Wales, as Katie

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Fr on t cover , Her Faces of Ch an ge - Cr ossin g Oan's Em pt y Qu ar t er . Ph ot o cou r t esy of Baida Al-Zadjali.

Adventure She magazine

Issue 7, September 2019

Oman is of course one of those countries that intrigues many of us. In fact, the whole of the Middle East, Arabia and the Islamic world fascinates me. We hear so much about it on the news, but what do we really know about the culture, the places and the people who live there? Pakistani Hamna Bilal shares with us a mini adventure she took in her own country.

hopefully before the end of September. Subscribers to our 2019 issues will of course get it for free. Just access it using your normal password.

Finally, we have a new regular feature, 'What a Woman'. This isn't a competition and anyone can nominate anyone, including yourself, just be sure to tell us why the person (or yourself) should be nominated.

We also have a couple of book reviews. It would be great if some of you submitted reviews of your favourite adventure books. We can't promise to publish them all, but we'll try. We also love publishing your stories, so please, do keep them coming.

Finally as Malala Yousafzai says "Do not wait for someone else to come and speak for you. It's you who can change the world". So go on, what are you waiting for, go seize that opportunity, for that moment may never come again.

Jane

Now it's confession time. We had hoped to bring you a special feature on UTMB week with this issue.

But the reality is, our special feature has grown so big, it's taken on a mind of its own. So, we'll publish it separately no later than early October and

Founder and editor

Howtofol l owAdventureSheonsocial media If you'd like to follow Adventure She on social media and / or join our Facebook Group, we'll be delighted to see you.

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Adventure She is published by TNA Consulting Services Ltd, the address of the registered of which can be obtained from Companies House. The entire contents is protected by copyright 2019 and all rights are reserved. Reproduction without prior permission is forbidden. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of the magazine, but the publishers assume no responsibility in the effect arising therefrom, Readers are advised to seek professional advice before acting on any information which is contained in the magazine. Neither TNA Consulting Services Ltd nor Adventure She magazine accept any liability for views expressed, pictures used or claims made. Copyright © 2019 TNA Consulting Services Ltd. All Rights Reserved.

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CONGRATULATIONS Issue 7, September 2019

Huge congratulations also goes to both Lucja Leonard and Zoe Pye who this August, successfully completed the UTMB race, all 170 kilometres of it, not forgetting the 10,000 plus metres of ascent along the way. as they raced around Mont Blanc, Western Europe's highest peak.

Ph ot o cou r t esy of Jan e Har r ies

Both Lucja and Zoe have previously written for Adventure She magazine and are total superstars.

They both trained really sensibly for the race, which necessitated a lot of hours and a lot of what others might deem to be sacrifices. But this is something they wanted and something they both pursued totally independently of each other. In fact, they only met during last year 's UTMB Oman race, despite living in the same building in Chamonix.

Lucja is pictured here with her and her husband's dog Gobi, who attached itself to Lucja's husband Dion , during a multiday ultra in the Gobi Desert.

Zoe, who mixes work in the City of London with weekends in the French Alps, is pictured at the finish line looking as fresh as a daisy. We seriously don't know how she does it. We'd have been collapsed in a heap by the half way mark, had we even made it that far.

There will be a lot more on the UTMB race and all the other races from UTMB week in our forthcoming special issue, out no later than early October.

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Coming Up We hope you’ve enjoyed this issue and have found it to be empowering, educating, and entertaining. Here are some ideas we have for future articles, but please do let us know what you’d like to read about and please do keep sending us your stories. We love publishing them.

Competing In The Eco Challenge

Drinking Tea With Xinjiang’s Uighurs

Ultra-Running Nepal

Getting Your Film Into A Film Festival

The Importance Of Attitude

Protecting Our Wilderness

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The Grand Canyon - Rim to Rim

Hiking Australia’s Kakadu National Park

Navigation For Hikers And Runners

New Zealand’s Coast To Coast Race Cycling Victoria’s Rail Trails

Cycling In Ireland

Romania After Ceausescu

Nepal After

Living With The Locals In Nepal –

Interview With Publisher Hilary Bradt

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