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NEW ZEALAND'S milford sound Kayaking the fiord's wondrous waterfalls
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EVERY TRIP ENDS WITH DREAMS OF THE NEXT THE NEW TRANSPORTER DUFFEL Sandy beaches and vermillion cliffs Dragon boats and streaked limestone. Faraway places. The New Transporter Duffel features the dependability you expect in a variety of volumes to make sure your gear survives, there and back. ospreypacks.com
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contents regulars ed's letter It's time to dive into the big blue
newest outdoor team members Some new additions to our crew
news The latest from the world of adventuring
new gear All the gear for your next outdoor challenge
People Outdoor meets renowned trekker David Mason
last shot Blue Pool Track, New Zealand
adventure
22 38 56 78 86 96 104
06 08 10 14 122 130
gear tests The north face ventrix jacket Heat up just to cool down
Dyson Electric Bikes We put power in the pedals and hit the sand
Discovering the daintree Hike, snorkel and zip through Cape Tribulation
lessons Of A Life on wheels The things you learn during two years on a bike
A NSW state of mind The hot spots to discover this summer
A Grand sound Kayaking into the heart of Milford Sound
FORGING A NEW ROUTE A new era of climbing at Smith Rock
Pressure Climb Trek leading on Kangchenjunga
Bucket List hikes Treks that you can't miss
16 18
guides Your ďŹ rst outdoor expedition What you need to know to survive in the wild
Packin' it The best hiking pack for your trek
hiking with hounds Top tips for bringing your pooch along
48 68 116 COVER: MILFORD SOUND, NZ PHOTO: Dan Kennedy
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PAGE 96
Still devoid of porters the next morning, the sirdar assured us that we should set off with the Sherpas and he would usher along the rest of the crew
ed's letter Sydney, Australia, November 2017
Chill out with Outdoor...
T
is’ the season of stinky socks, sweat patches and sunburnt noses. Yep, summer is finally here and there’s already perspiration building under my beard just from typing this here editor’s note! Since we last spoke, there’s been a lot happening in the world. With most of us leading such busy lifestyles, discovering a sense of adventure, having dreams to achieve and places to explore have never been more essential to our survival. Whether you’re working towards your next trip or you’re one of the lucky ones currently out there discovering something new, I know this edition of Outdoor will ignite a spark in you – just let your inner spirit animal free! It may be the season of the sweat patch, but that’s all the more reason to dive into the big blue! In this edition, Dan Kennedy loads up the kayaks and takes you to the visual spectacular that is New Zealand’s Milford Sound. Cleo Codrington goes chasing some of the most beautiful waterfalls and crystal clear beaches that NSW has to offer. But hell, we couldn’t let our contributors have all the fun! In the spirit of summer, the Outdoor crew headed to one of the muggiest joints in Australia: the Daintree Rainforest. We discover incredible fauna above and below the surface, swim at some hidden waterholes and hike our way from sea level to above the clouds. It’s not all blue skies and hot summer days though… we’ve scaled the highlands, deserts, canyons and glaciers from afar to bring you the best treks in the world. You might have to re-write the bucket list after reading this one. Geez, and that’s just the tip of the iceberg that is the Nov/Dec issue of Outdoor.. Feast your eyeballs and prepare to be inspired. Outdoor
W ho's w ho EDITORIAL Editor Jack Murphy Deputy Editor Natalie Cavallaro Senior Designer Brendon Wise Content Operations Danielle Beadman Contributors Henry Brydon, Michael Borg, Cleo Codrington, Mitch Cox, Mason Coggins, Dan Everett, Ashley Gray, Scott Heiman, Corey McCarthy, Dan Kennedy, Dan Slater. Editorial and News 125 Hawthorn Rd, Caulfield North, Vic, 3161 Australia submissions@adventuresgroup.com.au
DIGITAL Product Owner Will Dolman will@adventuresgroup.com.au Digital Content Manager Leah Glynn leah@adventuresgroup.com.au Digital Content Manager Katrina Minchenko katrina@adventuresgroup.com.au Marketing marketing@adventuresgroup.com.au Partner Marketing Manager Lauren Grigg lauren@adventuresgroup.com.au
ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES sales@adventuresgroup.com.au www.adventuresgroup.com.au Head of Partnerships Christopher Jefferson 0477 775 020 chris@adventuresgroup.com.au Partner Manager Eleanor Rattray 0402 135 296 eleanor@adventuresgroup.com.au Victoria/South-East Rowena Lyrijis 0428 950 936 rowena@adventuresgroup.com.au Renee Bordieri 0429 018 098 renee@adventuresgroup.com.au New South Wales/Qld/WA Serena Prasad 0429 489 615 serena@adventuresgroup.com.au Danielle Gowan 0435 065 325 danielle@adventuresgroup.com.au National Agency Christopher Jefferson 0477 775 020 chris@adventuresgroup.com.au National Partnerships Andrew Wilson 0437 034 003 andrew@adventuresgroup.com.au Private Advertising www.tradervs.com.au/sell Customer Support support@adventuresgroup.com.au
EXECUTIVE GROUP Chief Executive Officer Robert Gallagher rob@adventuresgroup.com.au Chief Financial Officer Matthew O,Meara matt@adventuresgroup.com.au Content Director Travis Godfredson travis@adventuresgroup.com.au
SUBSCRIPTIONS Phone: 1300 692 383 (ext. 3) Email: subscriptions@adventuresgroup.com.au Web: www.outdooraustralia.com/magazine
ADVERTISING TERMS & CONDITIONS www.adventuresgroup.com.au Outdoor is printed in Australia. Outdoor total printed copies: 6500
Outdoor is published by Adventures Group Holdings. ACN: 155 672 192 ABN: 29 155 672 192 All material in Outdoor is protected by the Commonwealth Copyright Act, 1968. No material may be reproduced without written consent. Distributed by Gordon & Gotch. Printed by Bluestar Web, 83 Derby Street, Silverwater, NSW 2128. ISSN 2205-0515
Jack Murphy
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NEWEST EXPEDITION TEAM MEMBERS This issue, we have a few new faces joining the Outdoor crew, with plenty of new adventures, advice and tips for your next journey. As usual, we grilled them to make sure they were up to the task. Q1. Where’s your base camp? Q2. What’s your outdoor speciality? Q3. You’re about to be stranded in the Amazon rainforest. You can take one item with you, what is it? (no EPIRBS or satellite phones!) Q4. What’s the most epic trip you’ve been on?
CLEO CODRINGTON
DAN KENNEDY
Everyday is an adventure for Cleo, and there's no doubt she's living the dream of most us, travelling the country (and the world!), and sharing her adventures from the road in her van.
Adventure is the name of Dan’s main game, and for him the thrill is all about standing on the brink of something new, exciting, and even terrifying and saying yes. Oh yeah, he’ll also capture incredible photographs while he’s there, so you feel like you’ve experienced the moment too.
A1. Currently all throughout the east coast, living and travelling with my partner Mitch in our van. A2. There's nothing more enticing than hiking to a camp spot and having an incredible landscape all to yourself. A3. If mosquitoes didn't love my blood so much, I'd pick something more interesting, but I don't want to die of malaria – insect repellent it is! A4. Hiking to a back country camp spot in Zion National Park – red rock walls, a private waterfall and sandy bank for the tent!
A1.Denver, Colorado USA. A2. Backpacking. A3. A knife. A4. Mountaineering in the southern Alps of New Zealand.
MASON COGGINS
HENRY BRYDON
With a natural thirst for exploration, Mason is an adventure tourism consultant that chases our infinite horizon across the globe, into uncharted landscapes, and amongst the furthest reaches of human spirit. He enjoys Molotov cocktails, long surfs on beach breaks, and getting caught in lightning storms. He was bitten by an Eastern Brown his first week in Australia. The snake died an hour later.
In 2010 Henry cycled from London to Sydney for more than two years in search of adventure. The 38,000km journey took him through 30 countries across Europe, the Middle East and Asia, teaching him about the beauty of the world and the value of chafage cream. From animal attacks to sandstorms, to prison, the seed of adventure was planted. Settling in Sydney, he turned to the weekends for his adventure fix. Frustrated by the lack of inspirational and informative content out there for micro-adventures in Australia, he started the We Are Explorers community to help others answer their call of the wild.
A1. An Osprey backpack. A2. Mountaineering. A3. A guitar – multi-purpose tool capable of enriching the passing time with enjoyment, as well as bartering for supplies with natives in exchange for serenades. A4. Sea kayaking from Milford to Dusky Sound in the Fiordland region of New Zealand over two weeks- almost 300km of paddling through a variety of elements including gale force winds and metre high chop on top of four metre swells.
A1. A cabin in a rainforest, hidden away in the Byron Bay hinterland. A2. Bikepacking. A3. Me and the missus have just spawned a mini-me; he’s a little dude called Jet Blaze and he’s my new adventure buddy and we boss the outdoors (wait, does he qualify as an item?) A4. Rode a pushie from Shrewsbury (England) to Sydney over two years and 38,000kms.
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Michael Borg
Borgy has lived and breathed the outdoor lifestyle for decades, and has travelled to every extremity of the Australian continent, looking great while doing it – just ask him! He's got great knowledge of hiking trails, but he's also built his fair share of tough 4WDs to adventure in.
A1. I'm Sydney based, but I could count the amount of weeks I spend at home each year on one medium sized hand with two fingers missing. A2. Hiking and kayaking, especially with pets. It turns out they don't complain all that much. A3. A survival knife with a flint should help light a fire, which gives me means to boil water and keep the bugs away. A4. When I was 18, I spent a month canoeing a chunk of the Darling River solo and unassisted.
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news
PHOTOS: World Expeditions
Discover a taste of New Zealand, on the iconic Great Taste Trail cycling journey
New Fron tier Ahead For Trans-Tasman Cyclists
W
orld Expeditions will now take cyclists on the Tasman Great Taste Trail. It comes after the company nabbed a stake in Trail Journeys Nelson by becoming the majority shareholder in the iconic self-guided cycle tour operator. Described as one of New Zealand’s great rides, the Tasman Great Taste Trail takes in 174km of scenic South Island and coastal views, broken into sections to suit experienced and leisure riders alike. Trail Journeys manages a hire fleet of more than 400 quality bikes, and offers passengers’
luggage transfer, accommodation and transfer service, and storage services the Otago Central Rail Trail, the Roxburgh Gorge Trail and on the Clutha Gold Trail. And, with bases in Clyde and Middlemarch, at either end of the Otago Central Rail Trail, Trail Journeys is well placed to meet the growing demands for this world-class cycling trail. “Trail Journeys are the ideal complement to our well established cycle brand, Adventure South, which runs fully-supported, guided cycling holidays primarily on the south island,
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from its base in Christchurch,” said World Expeditions CEO, Sue Badyari. The World Expeditions Travel Group provides a wide range of guided and selfguided walking and cycling itineraries world-wise, with brands including World Expeditions, UTracks, Great Canadian Trials, Tasmanian Expeditions and Australian Walking Holidays. Visit www.worldexpeditions.com or call 1300 720 000 for more.
GREAT HIMALAYA TRAIL > NEPAL
TREK
MOUNT KILIMANJARO > TANZANIA
THE PATHS LESS
TRAVELLED KOKODA TRAIL > PAPUA NEW GUINEA
MACHU PICCHU > PERU
LARAPINTA TRAIL > AUSTRALIA
ALTAI MOUNTAINS > MONGOLIA
BIG ADVENTURES > SMALL FOOTPRINT
speak to our experts: 1300 720 000
worldexpeditions.com SMALL GROUP ADVENTURE TRAVEL • CUSTOM ITINERARIES MAIN IMAGE: CHERILIA POLUAN
news
Trek Tassie's Wilds With Caro Ryan
L
ooking for qualified company to hone your navigation skills and share your obsession? Why not join Aussie trekker and ‘leave no trace’ advocate Caro Ryan, lotsafreshair.com, as she tackles the Tasmania’s South Coast Track in February 2018. The South Coast Track, set within the South West National Park, crosses 600,000 hectares of wild, inspiring country on an 84km route over 11 days. As a valued member of tight-knit group of hikers, you’ll leverage the well-loved blogger’s
knowledge in navigation, safety and bushcraft, acquired through years of negotiating some of Australia’s most remote, pristine and secluded trails. “After hearing my bushwalking friends talk about Tassie’s South Coast Track for so long, I’m very excited to be heading down there in February next year,” Caro said. A seasoned media professional, Caro’s warm demeanour and professionalism has earned her frequent guest spots on ABC Radio Weekend with Simon Marnie, and will come in handy as
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PHOTOS: CARO RYAN AND SOUTHCOASTTRACKIMAGES
the team pulls together on the epic trek from Melaleuca and Cockle Creek. And, with experience working with the Search and Rescue community, you’ll be in safe hands as you pit your body against extremes. By the end of the walk, Caro will have you reading topographic maps, planning and finding routes, taking a compass bearing, and estimating distances, speed and time. Visit lotsafreshair.com for more.
My Wild Home
Check ou t t he v ideo at w w w. ou tdoora ust ra lia .com
T HE AUST RALIAN ALPS LIKE YOU’ VE NEVER SEEN T HEM BEFORE
E
arlier this year the crew from We Are Explorers ven tured deep in to the Aussie backcoun try with pro skier, Coen Bennie-Faull, to discover what fuels his fire. The epic short film documen ts six days of battling bone rattling winds and teeth shattering cold, all while camping precariously on the Western Faces of the Snowy Moun tains. They wait patien tly for the weather gods before going in search of new lines, miles off the beaten track. The film also ponders questions about what ignites our passions, resulting in a powerful story about love, loss and inspiration. More information: weareexplorers.co
PHOTOS: TIM CLARK
ut it te d o "G e t k t u r nex fo r y o " e r u a d ve n t
new gear
PELICAN
50QT Elite Cooler Pelican products have been protecting defense, emergency, scientific and photography equipment in some of the harshest conditions since 1976. But now they can protect something even more important… your beers. Yep, Pelican now make what has got to be one of the toughest eskies in the world: The 50QT Elite Cooler. The freezer-grade seal and 5cm polyurethane insulation system will make sure your ice stays frozen for 10 days, while the graduated floor for draining, moulded-in tie down points and press and pull latches make it practical too. All Pelican Elite Coolers are guaranteed for life. $429.95 www.pelicanstore.com.au
LIFEPROOF
LONELY PLANET
FRE iPhone 7/8 Keeping your phone in one-piece in the outdoors can often seem like an uphill battle. Cracked screens and water damage are the usual suspects, but dust, sand and even snow can take down your pocket pal easily too. Luckily, LifeProof have just released the FRE case for iPhone 7/8. These rock solid cases don’t just look awesome, according to LifeProof they’re waterproof, drop proof, dust proof and even snow proof! $99.95 www.lifeproof.com.au
Atlas of Adventure The Atlas of Adventure is a 320 page hardback that takes you on a trailblazing journey around the world. The book says, “Whatever your adventure poison – be it climbing or kayaking, skiing or surfing, road cycling or mountain biking, trail running or camel trekking – you will find it here, usually in worldclass form, and often without too many others around to break your solitude.” $44.99 www.lonelyplanet.com
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SCARPA SUUNTO
LIFEPROOF
Spartan Sport Wrist HR Baro The new Suunto Spartan Sport Wrist HR Baro might be a mouthful to say, but once you read its list of features you’ll understand why. Not your ordinary watch, this high-tech gadget includes a GPS, heart rate monitor and even an air pressure sensor for precise altitude readings. The watch will also display sunrise/sunset times and give you upcoming storm alerts. The battery life is up to 20 hours when using a one second GPS fix and 40 hours when using a one minute GPS fix. $799.99 www.suunto.com
LifeActiv Armband with QuickMount Pockets are so 90s; it’s all about armband mounts now. The LifeActiv Armband with QuickMount from LifeProof is the ideal accessory for running or even swimming (when your phone is in a LifeProof case of course). The universal phone armband will adjust to biceps 21.5cm-48.2cm large, so no matter if you’re packing toothpicks or tree trunks you’re always going to have a good fit. The QuickMount feature also means your phone mounts with a secure click and comes off with a simple twist. Starting from $74.95 www.lifeproof.com.au
KUHL
TEVA
Renegade 10” Short American outdoor apparel brand Kuhl, has just hit Aussie shores with their new Renegade 10” Short. Made from DURALUX fabric, these shorts are said to be soft like cotton, yet stronger, more breathable and far more resistant to abrasion. They’re also water resistant and offer UPF 50+ properties. Available in three colours: Buckskin, Khaki and Koal. $119.95 www.kuhl.com
Women’s Arrowood Lux Mid WP According to Teva, the Woman’s Arrowood Lux Mid WP, are not only lightweight and durable, they have a waterproof membrane and leather upper that seals out rain and puddles. Other features include Teva’s FloatLite midsole that’s said to provide exceptional cushioned comfort, so you won’t just be looking good, you’ll have a spring in your step too. $279.95 au.teva.com
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tested
Outdoor's editor looking only slightly guilty at his theft of The North Face's Ventrix jacket
Best of both worlds
The North Face have just released their Ventrix series of jackets, which are said to keep you warm when you’re stationary, but cool when you’re active. The Outdoor team definitely had to check this out.
WORDS: JACK MURPHY PICS: KATIE HANNA
W
hat would you say if there was a jacket that could adapt to your body movement and was actually able to regulate your temperature? Well at first I’d say, “shut up and take my money!” Then, I’d probably say, “No way, that sounds impossible.” Well that’s pretty much the conversation I had with the guys from The North Face when they showed me a pre-release version of their new Ventrix jacket. According to them, this baby traps the hot air inside the jacket when you’re not moving to keep you warm, and then when you start being active the perforations inside the jacket expand and dump the heat to prevent you from sweating up a storm. This eliminates the need to constantly shed and re-apply layers when you’re hiking, trail running, climbing or even skiing. This technology sounded amazing. I wasn’t taking their word for it though. When The North Face
team wasn’t looking I smuggled the jacket into my bag and made off with the precious cargo.
TESTING GROUNDS When I got back to Outdoor HQ, I examined the stolen loot. My first impressions of the Ventrix weren’t mind-blowing; it seemed like a fairly light jacket in terms of insulation and the zips didn’t seem to be very well sealed from water ingress. However, as I’ve often found, looks can be deceiving and I wouldn’t be making judgment on the Ventrix until I’d put it through its paces. The next afternoon was perfect testing conditions. The weather was a chilly 15 degrees (by Brisbane standards) and I got tipped off about a great little three km hike that involved a small rock climb. As I sat in the car on the way to the hike with the windows down, I was bloody hot! For such a lightweight jacket (420g) this
16
thing felt like it had a 7/11 pie warmer bolted inside it. As I jumped out of the car and began the hike I actually started cooling down rather than warming up. The jacket’s laser cut perforations do their job to remove the warm air and provide ventilation to the high heat zones of the body. The slim fit design and lightweight fabric also go a long way to keep you feeling agile on the tracks, while offering a great range of movement without the fear of ripping the armpits. I also noticed the higher-denier fabric on the forearms offered awesome abrasion resistance when climbing over jagged boulders.
WATER TEST So it passed the hike and climb test with flying colours, but how would it go against something much more intimidating? Yep, the garden hose was coming out and a thumb was applied over
T he North Face Ventrix jacket punches well above its weight when it comes to light jackets The forearms on the Ventrix jacket are made with a higher-denier fabric Nope, this jacket hasn't been attacked by moths; it's been attacked by a frickin' laser to provide dynamic venting the end for extra force. Now the Ventrix jacket is coated in a DWR (Durable Water Repellent) and isn’t waterproof, it’s water resistant, which means it’s able to resist the penetration of water to some degree but not entirely. Having said that, the jacket did surprisingly well, it copped the full force of the hose right on the centre zip and most of the water beaded straight off leaving me with a small wet patch on the front of the jacket. Other than that, I was completely dry inside. The jacket also dried incredibly quickly when left in the sun.
PROS
RAT
ED
-Awesome Ventrix synthetic-insulation technology -Super versatile. Great for a range of different conditions or activities
CONS
GOOD THINGS COME IN SMALL PACKAGES The North Face Ventrix jacket punches well above its weight when it comes to light jackets, but at $350 you’re certainly paying for it. The hoodie version is even pricier at $380. In my opinion it’s definitely worth the dosh with so much amazing tech packed into such a small package. For my sake, let’s just hope The North Face don’t figure out their prototype is missing…
-Not cheap for a lightweight jacket
MORE INFO thenorthface.com.au
Based in Aoraki Mount Cook, we are New Zealand’s longest established guiding company. We offer unparalleled support for your adventures across the Southern Alps.
Your Pathway to High Adventure TECHNICAL MOUNTAINEERING COURSE (TMC) 9 days advanced alpine climbing
ALPINE SKILLS COURSE (ASC)
7 day introduction to alpine climbing
MOUNTAIN EXPERIENCE COURSE (MEC) 6 day introduction to mountain skills
CONTACT US
17
tested
Pedal power WORDS MATTHEW O’MEARA PICS JACK MURPHY
Are they cheating? Outdoor tested out two of Dyson’s electric bikes to see just what all the fuss is about.
C
all me a traditionalist, but when I heard I was to review an electric mountain bike, it seemed the antithesis of what mountain biking is all about. However, as I soon found out, this wasn’t your standard electric bike. The Dyson Fat Bike and Hard Tail Evo that we had strapped on board during a recent epic trip to Cape York were certainly head turners. The rugged look of the Fat Bike and Dyson’s clean and sophisticated aesthetics really enhanced the fact that these bikes are miles away from the standard perception of a ‘commuter’ electric bike.
SO HOW DO THEY RIDE? These bikes are seriously quick. The Evo is designed for various road surfaces and handled itself well on the corrugated dirt tracks of Cape York. However, it was the Fat Bike that was by far the most fun. I took it out for a ride on the wide open spaces at Loyalty Beach and despite being very soft underfoot, the Fat Bike with its four inch tyres gripped the surface well, and I had no problems getting some good momentum up and down the beach. By contrast I tested the Evo on the same surface and couldn’t even get out of the blocks, which shows just how critical fat tyres are on the soft sand.
TECH FACTS: HARD TAIL EVO The Evo boasts 27.5 inch alloy Alex rims fitted with oversize Kenda tyres suitable for mixed surfaces, 9 speed Shimano Alivio gears, Tektro 180mm disc rotor brakes and 11Ah or optional 15Ah 36V Lithium-ion Panasonic Battery Cells. The total weight is 25kgs and it has a battery life of up to seven hours with a range of up to 150kms. The Evo retails from $2,299, which is well priced considering the quality of the package.
I took it out for a ride on the wide open spaces at Loyalty Beach and despite being very soft underfoot, the Fat Bike with its four inch tyres gripped the surface well
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TECH FACTS: FAT BIKE In contrast, the Fat Bike has 26 inch Alex rims fitted with massive four inch Vee tyres suitable for sand, snow and gravel, 9 speed Shimano Alivio gears, Tektro 180mm disc rotor brakes and 11Ah 11Ah 36V Lithium-ion Battery Panasonic Cells. Total weight is 29.2kgs and a battery life of up to 5 hours with a range of up to 50-70kms. It retails for $2,499 with the slightly higher price linked to the bigger tyres.
2017
TRAVELLERS’ CHOICE AWARD
NO.1 HOTEL IN AUSTRALIA
5 out of 5
Weekend Away Review – January 2015
ocean swim weeks Join Trevor Hendy on our Lord Howe Island Ocean Swim Week and enjoy Australia’s best ocean experience – swimming, surfing, diving, snorkelling, kayaking and fishing – and when you’re done, you can relax on the beach or visit the day spa. The week is for experienced ocean swimmers who enjoy a challenge by day, and some luxury by night. Book our Ocean Swim Week in 2018 and discover why so many swimmers return to Pinetrees. Please call (02) 9262 6585 and quote ‘Outdoor’.
lord howe island • another world • close to home
Contact Pinetrees Travel on (02) 9262 6585 or visit pinetrees.com.au 19
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milford sound Kayaking the fiord's wondrous waterfalls
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NEW ZEALAND'S Kayaking the waterfalls of Milford Sound| Discovering the Daintree Rainforest | Hiking pack guide| Epic treks for your bucket list
Kayaking the waterfalls of Milford Sound| Discovering the Daintree Rainforest | Hiking pack guide| Epic treks for your bucket list
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