Go escape isla holbox cover story

7 EPIC SLEDDING HILLS

2016 WINTER GETAWAY GUIDE

WI N T E R 20 16

CRUISE NORWAY Experience more than 2,500 nautical miles of stunning scenery

FOODIE FODDER

Doughnuts ••Gourmet The Cider Craze •Snack Factory Tours

TRAVEL HACKS

21

Simple tips for the best vacation ever!

Mexico’s peaceful paradise

HOLBOX GOESCAPE15_COVER.indd 1

DISPLAY UNTIL JANUARY 9, 2016 @usatodaymags

ISLA

10/6/15 11:22 AM

THINKSTOCK

IENNE

BY ADR

J O R DA N

This beachfront property, centrally located near the shopping district, has it all. There are gorgeous pools, daily yoga classes and spa services. Décor from locally sourced antiques and artisan-made colonial furniture give this hotel a unique vibe. holboxcasalastortugas.com

plethora of delights for all types of travelers.

Adventurers flock here for the kitesurfing and fly-fishing opportunities, and foodies indulge in the quaint restaurants, which serve fresh lobster and grouper caught by locals. Wildlife-watching is unsurpassed (as part of the Yum Balam Biosphere Reserve, Holbox hosts a bounty of horseshoe crabs, white pelicans, flamingos, whale sharks and other exotic species).

The authentic, slow pace of life here (instead of cars, golf carts are the preferred mode of transporttation) and warm, welcoming locals create a unique destination, truly one of the last sleepy Mexican beach towns.

MA RIN E E N COU N T E R S The deep waters of the Gulf of Mexico, about 45 minutes offshore from Isla Holbox, are home to the pride and joy of the island: whale sharks. The shark’s double dorsal fin, intricately spotted body and 5-foot-long mouth that seems like a neverending smile delight locals and tourists alike.

The world’s largest fish, which can reach lengths of 40 feet, is safe to swim alongside. Murals, T-shirts, souvenirs and wooden signs throughout the island

MARCO BADALIAN PHOTOGRAPHY

elcome to Mexico’s Havana, Isla Holbox.

A clear blue sky and warm turquoise waters complement the pastel-hued buildings in town. Fishermen walk through the colorful village swinging their catch of the day. Calls from sea eagles provide a calming staccato, and a backdrop of tangled red mangrove trees form a picturesque border.

Holbox, which means “black hole” in Yucatec Maya, is a 26-mile-long island separated from the mainland of Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula by a shallow lagoon. It’s one of the Caribbean’s best-kept secrets, a short ferry ride from the small town of Chiquila, which is a two-hour drive from Cancun.

Although still undiscovered by many, the small island offers a

TOP: MARCO BADALIAN PHOTOGRAPHY; ANDREA WYNER (2)

ESCAP E W I N T E R B L U E S AT ON E OF ME XICO’ S LAST S L E E P Y B E A C H G E TAWAY S, A NAT URE - LOV E R’ S PARA D I SE

beckon people to “Swim with Whale Sharks.”

“Are you nervous?” asks Wilbert, my guide through VIP Holbox Experience, a tourism agency. I respond in the affirmative when we locate a whale shark in the vast blue sea after almost an hour of searching by boat.

“Good, you should be excited,” he responds.

Fins, moving with enthusiasm and peeking out of the water, give the whale sharks away. I jump into the sea with my snorkel and immediately one of the giant fish swims inches from my face. The fish is so close I can easily reach out and touch it, but I am stopped by the knowledge that they are sensitive and swimmers should avoid contact.

I am more than happy with my magical moment staring into the whale shark’s eyes, watching the

W HA L E S H AR K BOAT T O U R

BEACH H OPP IN G What better way to explore the region than by visiting some of the tranquil mini-islands minutes away from Holbox?

My VIP Holbox Classic Tour takes me by boat to these popular points of interest. We start at Punta Mosquito, where hundreds of pink flamingos shake, eat and bask in the sun on the beach. Only birds can sunbathe here, so we observe from a distance the flamingos and pelicans, white ibis and reddish egrets, spoonbills and cormorants, dozens of them scouring for fish to eat.

When we get to Isla Pajaros, or Bird Island, we encounter a bridge that serves as an observation point for the small mangrove-covered island, home to more than 150 different types of birds. We watch eagles soar overhead and catch a couple of iguanas wrestling on the sand.

Next, we pay a visit to Passion Island, an intimate and secluded romantic destination. We see birds feeding, and I spot an osprey scanning the water for prey. At the last stop, Yalahau, we swim inside a cenote, or sinkhole, believed to be used by pirates as a fresh water supply centuries ago.

F R E SH E AT S After a day of adventure, the only thing left to do is indulge in a hearty island meal with drinks.

Mandarina Beach Club’s multivitamínico juice is just what the doctor ordered: a heavenly mix of fresh mango, mandarin oranges and

VIP HOLBOX EXPERIENCE

The tour company is owned

by Willi Torfer, who has 20 years of experience exploring Holbox with tourists. The personal touch is evident in the tour guides’ warm personalities and efforts to ensure that guests and families are comfortable during excursions.

The team is dedicated to raising awareness about the environment and preserving flora and fauna through measures such as encouraging the use of biodegradable sunscreen when swimming with marine life. vipholbox.com

huge mouth suck in plankton.

After each guest has a turn making contact with these amazing creatures, we leave to snorkel in shallower water 20 minutes away.

The area teems with marine life and I encounter many treasures: freckled hawksbill turtles, manta rays, nurse sharks and bright, tropical fish. We end our tour in the waters of Cabo Catoche, another small island off the waters of Holbox.

The main attraction is the catfish that swim around my ankles with a fearless energy.

Scattered throughout the island, mangroves with sparse branches attract slim, white storks, creating an ethereal landscape.

B RE AKFAST B E ACHSIDE AT MAN DARINA

The beachfront restaurant serves up fresh organic food, including homemade bread, croissants, cakes and papaya jam for breakfast and homemade Italian pasta with pesto for lunch or dinner. The blend of Mediterranean and Caribbean cuisine is complemented by a full menu of fresh juices. www.holboxcasalas tortugas.com/dine-drink

strawberry whipped up fresh at the bar. I sip on the frothy concoction and take in the landscape — beautiful enough to be painted with soft sand, perfect for an evening stroll.

The restaurant’s bohemianchic décor flows out past the dining area, where curtains drape the cabanas and blow in the evening breeze and colorful hammocks dangle from the trees. I take in the scenery while feasting on succulent grilled shrimp seasoned with garlic; delicious avocado and sweet-corn tartare completes the flavorful entrée.

Mandarina’s claim to fame is being one of the island’s

truly organic restaurants. The kitchen sources all ingredients locally, serving freshly caught fish, fruit from local purveyors and vegetables, produce and spices from the hotel’s own farm in the nearby village of Solferino.

Argentinian chef Jorge Melul’s menu puts emphasis on the sea, serving seasonal seafood freshly caught by local fishermen. Melul previously ran an Italian-Argentinian restaurant in Buenos Aires, and he brings those touches to Holbox through such dishes as rack of lamb with mustard, honey and rosemary, as well as homemade ravioli with salmon.

“There are a lot of Italian and Argentinian expatriots that live on Holbox, so we wanted to bring these locals flavors that they may be missing from their home countries,” says Mandarina Beach Club owner Francesca Golinelli.

Making people feel at home in an island paradise — just the Isla Holbox way. ●

ANDREA WYNER

SW EETS F RO M MA NDA RI NA