TRAVEL + LEISURE ST. MORITZ, SWITZERLAND St. Moritz, Switzerland where winter tourism has its roots began opening their hearts to winter enthusiasts 150 years ago. The pristine slopes overlook Europe’s first palace hotel, 300 restaurants and over 100 shops. It is the playground for the international crowd that frequents this ultimate luxury town at the Top of the World.
STAY Hotel Carlton (http://en.carlton-stmoritz.ch), a Leading Hotel of the World and one of St. Moritz’s best five-star accommodations, was my abode for three nights in one of their 800 sq. ft. deluxe suites. The “wow” factor began at the door. A generous entryway with chic furnishings and space for ski clothes by the door, it set the tone for a lovely stay. Each suite that I toured was decorated with lavish and colorful fabrics. General Manager Dominic Bachofen explained that the extraordinary interior designer Carlo Rampazzi wanted to combine timeless elegance with a modern style – he succeeded. As Dominic noted, why stay in a hotel room that is decorated like your home? How will you know you are on vacation unless you experience an awakening of your senses? I tend to agree! Everything I could have wanted and needed to work and relax (multiple outlets for European and US plugs, Nespresso coffee maker, large desk area, sunk-in marble bath tub with separate shower, large built-in wardrobes, lounge area and spacious balcony) was in this superb unit. The handy ski valets in the hotel rent and store equipment. All-inclusive, the hotel provides transfers to and from Corviglia Ski Station. Forgot to pack gear or want a memorable souvenir? The ski shop is stocked with the latest alpine ski fashion. EAT Lunch on the slopes with views to die for, truffle king and chef, Reto Mathis of Restaurant La Marmite (http://www.mathisfood.ch), serves up pizza with freshly grated black truffles by the ounce for foodies in need of fix. Caviar was being downed like popcorn at a movie theater the day I dined there and the champagne flowed like a waterfall. Decadent, but casual, this spot is great people watching and a gastronomy paradise 8,000 feet in the air. The horse knows the way to carry the sleigh through the white and drifted snow to the edge of Lake Staz’s off the beaten path restaurant, Al Lej da Staz. It was over the river and through the woods via fur-lined horse-drawn carriage to reach this warm and cozy local dining spot. Traditional Swiss food, complete with house specialty “hay soup” offers diners a unique experience. Dinner views of the Alpen-glow is best found at Hotel Carlton’s Restaurant Romanoff, where specialties of the Engadine region showcase Swiss cuisine in a sophisticated, yet not too serious dining room. 52 Upscale Living Magazine |
Issue 31
There are three main ski areas with over 217 miles of slopes that make up St. Moritz: Corviglia, Corvatsch and Diavolezza. Each zone is comprised of highly efficient lifts that keep the lines moving. Food lovers will enjoy over 30 choices for drinks and dining on the mountain. While Americans typically ski a full day and stop briefly for lunch, most Europeans have the right idea – push hard in the morning in the fresh powder and retire for the day after a leisurely lunch and robust cocktail. Sunshine prevails in this area, so sunbathing is also part of the afternoon activities during ski season in St. Moritz. APRÈS SKI Pavarotti and Friends (Plazza dal Mulin 3 7500 St. Moritz), is the upscale “Cheers” of St. Moritz. Pavarotti look-alike owner and entertaining opera singer in his own right, Deny Mainente knows the locals and frequent visitors by name. Wine snob and host with most, he delivers Italian antipasto and first-class wines with a gigantic smile. With only 60 seats, be prepared to share a bench with strangers – they won’t be strangers for long. The affectionate owner’s vibe rubs off on everyone! Badrutt’s Palace Hotel (http://www.badruttspalace.com/en/) was the first palace hotel in Europe. Its regal lobby or Le Grand Hall as it’s named, makes for a perfect place to rendezvous for an après ski mélange. Hanging out here you will feel as though you are seated on the catwalk of a Paris winter runway show. If you’ve worked too hard to imbibe just yet, the relaxing 12,000+ square foot spa at Hotel Carlton is the way to go. Book a massage to soothe weary muscles after a day on the slopes. Hair, makeup, nails and hydrotherapy are just a few of the services this complete spa offers guests to unwind and get ready for the evening. HOW TO GET THERE By Air/Rail: Zurich, 150 miles. If you fly any airline directly from the U.S. into either Zurich or Geneva airports, you can skip the baggage claim and go straight to your final destination via the Swiss Railway System. See the official Swiss Tourism site for details (http://www.swisspasses.com/swiss-fly-luggage/). Jet owners will appreciate the Engadin Airport, which is only three miles from the center of St. Moritz. Helicopters can be arranged for pick up from Verona or many of the other small airports in Switzerland and Italy. Davos-Klosters (http://www.davos.ch/en.html), Switzerland is a winter wonderland in the highest town of the Swiss Alps with Europe’s largest natural ice rink. A very cosmopolitan city, Davos has attracted the affluent and politico for many years that enjoy skiing, skating, ice hockey, tobogganing, and the unusual sport of llama trekking. STAY The futuristic Intercontinental Hotel (http://www.intercontinental.com/ hotels/gb/en/davos-dorf./zdvda/hoteldetail) is Davos’ newest addition to