René J. Marquis, CEC®, CCE®, CCA®, AAC® ACFEF Chairperson
Barry R. Young, CEC, CCE, AAC
National Secretary
Bryan Frick, CEC, AAC
National Treasurer
Kyle Richardson, CEC, CCE, AAC
American Academy of Chefs Chair
Joe G. Aiello, CEC, AAC, HOF
Vice President Central Region
James F. Kokenyesdi, CEC, CCA, AAC
Vice President Northeast Region
Ray McCue, CEC, AAC
Vice President Southeast Region
Keith E. Gardiner, CEC, CCE, CCA, AAC
Vice President Western Region
Jay Marshall, CEC, AAC
Executive Director
Christopher Tanner, CEC, CCE, AAC
Advisor
Thomas J. Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC, HOF, HBOT
The National Culinary Review® (ISSN 0747-7716), July/August 2025, Volume 49, Number 4, is owned by the American Culinary Federation, Inc. (ACF) and is produced six times per year by ACF, located at 6816 Southpoint Parkway, Ste 400, Jacksonville, FL 32216. A digital subscription to the National Culinary Review® is included with ACF membership dues; print subscriptions are available to ACF members for $25 per year, domestic; nonmember subscriptions are $40. Material from the National Culinary Review®, in whole or in part, may not be reproduced without written permission. All views and opinions expressed in the National Culinary Review® are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of the officers or members of ACF. Changes of mailing address should be sent to ACF’s national office: 6816 Southpoint Parkway, Ste 400, Jacksonville, FL 32216; (800) 624-9458; Fax (904) 940-0741.
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The PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE
Dear ACF Members,
It is with immense gratitude and enthusiasm that I address you as your re-elected National President for a second term. Thank you for your trust and support in allowing me to continue serving our incredible culinary community. I am thrilled to share that our board remains united, working as a cohesive team with your best interests at heart, driving the ACF forward with passion and purpose.
This year's National Conference in Las Vegas, themed "Exploring Culinary Horizons Together," truly embodied the spirit of our organization. The week was a vibrant celebration of our shared love for culinary arts and community. To kick things off, many of you joined my wife, Chef Vanessa Marquis, CEC, AAC , and me for Operation Chefs: A Recipe for Change on Saturday, July 26th. Through the Chef & Child Initiative, we hosted a Back-to-School Healthy Food Fest in the morning, nurturing our local community, and had the distinct honor of cooking for 180 of our military veterans. As Chef Vanessa so beautifully says, giving back is "food for the soul." I encourage you all to embrace this sentiment and get involved in your communities, especially with October's Child Nutrition Day, International Chefs Day, and November's Veterans Day. Your participation can make a lasting impact!
The energy at the convention was electric, and I was deeply inspired to see you connecting—forming new friendships, mentorships, and bonds that strengthen our kitchen family. Despite my whirlwind pace assisting our national office staff to make this convention the best yet, I cherished every moment when you stopped me to say hello. Your warmth and enthusiasm fuel my commitment to this organization.
The ACF proudly hosted three extraordinary culinary competitions, made possible by the state-of-the-art kitchens provided by our generous sponsor, Middleby. The Freedom Chef Challenge showcased the talent of all six branches of service, while the Worldchefs Global Chefs Challenge for the Americas crowned winners who will now represent us at the Worldchefs Congress 2026 in Wales. Our ACF National Championships highlighted chefs at the peak of their craft, presenting dishes that were not only visually stunning but demonstrated exceptional skill and dedication. These chefs, along with our talented ACF member presenters, showcased the remarkable talent within our organization. I couldn't be prouder to be part of this community.
Our National and Youth ACF Culinary Team USA had a successful fundraising week, with strong sales of the ACF Culinary Team USA commemorative F. Dick knife, Rak Porcelain white toques, and tickets to their dinner. I hope you had the chance to join me in shaking hands with our sponsors, whose unwavering support is the bridge to our success. A heartfelt thank you to the hosting chapter, ACF Chefs Las
Vegas, for their time and volunteers, as well as our ACF members and national office staff who gave their all—not just during the convention but over the past two years. I also extend my gratitude to our committee chairs and their teams for their tireless efforts.
Looking ahead, the board is committed to establishing operations manuals to ensure our organization's continued success, selecting future convention sites with chapters eager to host us, and strengthening our chapters nationwide. Together, we will keep pushing the ACF to new heights.
Thank you for your unwavering dedication to the ACF. I am honored to serve you for another two years and look forward to what we'll achieve together.
Chefs, I got your six!
René J. Marquis, CEC, CCE, CCA, AAC MSG (R), US ARMY
National President of the American Culinary Federation Chairman of the Board, ACF Tampa Bay Chapter
Certification Chair, ACF Tampa Bay Chapter
WORLDCHEFS ChairmanMilitary Committee
WORLDCHEFS Culinary Competition
Committee - Special Advisor Military Kitchens and Development
NEWS BITES
EVENTS
ACF CHEF’S TABLE WEBINAR SERIES: A WALK THROUGH THE GARDEN
August 20, 2025 at 3:00 PM
Join Farmer Lee Jones and Chef Jamie Simpson virtually from the fields of The Chef's Garden as they discuss what's in season now, what's just around the corner, and the future of agriculture. Explore the bold world of vegetables as headliners, from nutrient-dense crops to innovative plant-based dishes that satisfy the body. See how sustainability, flavor, and artistry come together right from the farm.
Register at acfchefs.org.
ACF CHEF’S TABLE WEBINAR SERIES: PICKLED TO PERFECTION - THE ART OF PRESERVATION
August 27, 2025 at 2:00 PM
Join ACF Chef Joe Parajecki as he discusses the deep cultural roots and culinary expertise in the art of pickling. From crunchy cucumbers and tangy beets to savory mushrooms and even sweet plums, pickling traditions span the spectrum of taste. With a dozen jars in his fridge at all times, Chef Joe is ready to help you preserve your harvest, and your heritage, one pickle at a time.
Register at acfchefs.org.
ACF CHEF’S TABLE WEBINAR SERIES: GLOBAL MADE SIMPLE
September 17, 2025 at 3:00 PM
Today's patrons are looking for more customization opportunities and more global flavors. An Asian Action Station delivers both. Brianna Garcia-Meyers and Chef Tommy Hearn will walk you through the process of setting one up using versatile products and simple steps to save labor and keep patrons on site.
Register at acfchefs.org.
ACF CHEF’S TABLE WEBINAR SERIES: SWICY UNLOCKED
September 24, 2025 at 2:00 PM
Sweet and spicy isn't just a fleeting food trend—it's a timeless flavor pairing that's captivating chefs and diners alike. Explore the science behind why our brains crave swicy, examine global inspirations, and discover creative applications to bring this dynamic duo to life in your own kitchen.
Register at acfchefs.org.
EDUCATION
CERTIFICATION PRACTICAL EXAMS
Practical exams, required for earning and maintaining ACF certifications, assess your skillset based on the certification level you are pursuing. Each level has specific requirements, including what dishes to prepare, the time frame for the exam, and other important details, all of which are outlined in the candidate handbook. Exams are conducted at various locations across the country throughout the year. Be sure to check the upcoming practical exam schedule to find and register for an exam!
Visit acfchefs.org/certify for a list of upcoming practical exams.
ACF ONLINE LEARNING CENTER
The ACF Online Learning Center (OLC) offers a variety of courses, demonstrations, webinars, and NCR quizzes that can be used for certification requirements and Continuing Education Hours (CEH).
Visit acfchefs.org/olc to explore all the courses, from garde manger to culinary nutrition, accounting, safety and sanitation, beverage management and more.
SPECIALIZED CERTIFICATES
ACF specialized certificates are available through the ACF Online Learning Center. In 2025, we'll introduce new and exciting specialized certificates while also revamping our current offerings, which include culinary essentials, baking/pastry essentials, culinary cannabis and personal chef certificates.
Visit acfchefs.org/olc to learn more.
COMPETITIONS
UPCOMING CULINARY COMPETITIONS
September 13-14, 2025 - ACF Columbus Chapter
Columbus State Community College, Columbus, OH
Show Chair: Joel O'Donnell, CEC
September 13, 2025 - Michigan Chefs de Cuisine Association
Schoolcraft College, Livonia, MI
Registration Closed
September 20-21, 2025 - Cleary-Huffman St. Paul Farmer's Market Competition
290 5th St. E., Saint Paul, MN
September 25, 2025 - Inaugural Senior Living Challenge
Gordon Food Service Headquarters, Grand Rapids, MI
October 11-12, 2025 - MCI ACF Greater Cincinnati Culinary Salon
Midwest Culinary Institute at Cincinnati State, Cincinnati, OH
IN MEMORIAM
We honor the memory of chefs who have passed, recognizing their invaluable contributions to the culinary profession and lasting influence they've had on the industry.
Cornelis J. Huisman, CEC, AAC - died July 27, 2025
Ingredients of the Month
Earn CEHs with ACF's Ingredient of the Month Series
Learn each featured ingredient's backstory, typical uses, and delicious recipes at acfchefs.org. Download each IOTM presentation and complete the corresponding quizzes by logging on to the ACF Online Learning Center to earn one hour of continuing-education credits per quiz toward your ACF certification.
JULY 2025 - CHILI CRISP
Bold, spicy, and irresistibly crunchy, chili crisp has taken simple ingredients rooted in Chinese tradition and turned them into an international culinary phenomenon. Bursting with heat, texture, and umami, this global ingredient has chefs and cooks spicing up everything from noodles and eggs to even ice cream.
AUGUST 2025 - VINEGAR
Vinegar has been transforming food for over 7,000 years from preserving Babylonian meals to fueling Roman soldiers with a drink called posca. Created through a double fermentation process, this sharp, ancient ingredient not only adds bold flavor but also tenderizes, preserves, and balances dishes in kitchens around the world.
BY THE NUMBERS
5 DAYS 1,426 ATTENDEES 75 SPEAKERS 30 LECTURES 25 DEMOS 28 CE HOURS 16 COMPETITIONS 106 TRADESHOW EXHIBITORS 45 SPONSORS
Gold Medal WINNERS
Global Chefs Challenge
Qualifying teams will advance to compete in the Global Chefs Finals during the 2026 Worldchefs Congress & Expo in Wales.
Global Chef Winner: Derek R. Mazzoccoli, usA
G lobal Pastry Chef Winner: Pablo galvan, Mexico
Global Vegan Chef Winner: Michael J. st amets, CEC, usA
G lobal Junior Chef Winner: yeishalee s antana, usA
Freedom Chefs Challenge
Gold Medal & Overall Winner: team united st ates Coast g uard
sp ecial recognition to all branches who competed with honor and distinction
ACF Food Sport Competition
Powered by World Food Championships and sp onsored by TurboChef
Pizza: l arry Matson, CEC, CCE, AAC
Burger: gabe Rosado, CEC, CCA
Pastry/Dessert: Rebekah Pool
Sandwich: Vanessa Marquis, CEC, AAC
ACF National Competitions
Chef of the year sponsored by Middleby
st udent competitions sponsored by Zwilling
Chef of the Year: Jeffrey MacDonald, CCC®
Pastry Chef of the Year: Kelsie Vansant, CEPC®
Chef Educator of the Year: Joshua Wickham, CEC, CEPC, AAC
Student Chef of the Year: Karen Wood
Student Pastry Chef of the Year: Kaylee snyder
Student Team National Champions: suNy D elhi
Knowledge Bowl National Champions: Chefs de Cuisine Association of st louis
National Awards and Honors
L.J. MINORS CHEF PROFESSIONALISM AWARD
Jay Ziobrowski, CEC
HERMANN G. RUSCH CHEF’S ACHIEVEMENT AWARD
Rajeev Patgaonkar, CEC, AAC
L. EDWIN BROWN AWARDS:
Richard Frazier, CSC®; Paula I. Recinella, HAAC
PRESIDENTIAL MEDALLIONS
Jason G. Avelson, CEC, CCE, AAC
Jeff Bacon, CEC, AAC
Derrick Connor, CEC, CCA
Andy Cuthbert, HAAC
James V. DiMarzio, CEC, AAC
Ralph C. Feraco, CEC, AAC
Edward E. Fuchs, CEC, CCE, CCA
Christopher A. Galarza, CEC, CCA
LaKisha Harris
John Jakeman, CEC, CCE
Gene E. Kalesti
Thomas J. Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC, HOF, HBOT
John N. Masi
Greg Matchett, CEC, AAC
Patrick D. Mitchell, CEC, AAC
John J. Norton, CEC, CCA
Joseph D. Parajecki
Rajeev Patgaonkar, CEC, AAC
Thomas F. Recinella, CEC, AAC
Lenard Rubin, CEC, CCA, AAC
Morris Salerno, HAAC
Michael Thames, CEC, CCA
David G. Turin, CEC
Daniel Van Etten, CEC
Fred G. Wright, CEC, AAC
William Yee
CUTTING EDGE AWARDS
Patrick S. Artz
Robert W. Beighey, CEC, CCA
Walter T. Cloud, CCC, CEPC
Thomas J. Delle Donne, CEC
Spyridon Giannakoulopoulos, CEC, CCE
Debra S. Hamlin-Childers
Andrew Helmandollar
Jimmy L. Hill, HAAC
Richard Hoffman, CEC, CCA, AAC
Raimund W. Hofmeister, CMC®, AAC
Matthew P. Jarson
Sergey Kashkin, CEC, CCA
Tony Le, CEC
Douglas R. Maneely, CEC, CCA, AAC
Maynard J. Meland, CEC, CCA, AAC
Oscar Moreno
Lee H. Moultrie
John T. Piazza, CEC, CCA, CCE
David L. Prows, CEC, AAC
Matthew D. Schellig, CEC, CEPC, CCE, CCA, AAC
David J. Turcotte, CEC, AAC
Tom Valentin, CEC, AAC
John J. Woods, CEC, CWPC®, AAC
Jay Ziobrowski, CEC
INDUSTRY PARTNER OF THE YEAR
Middleby
LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD RECIPIENTS
Byron J. Bardy, CMC, AAC
O. Siegfried Krauss, CEC, AAC
Denise S. Graffeo, CEC, AAC, HOF
Paul E. Sorgule, AAC
Wilfred R. Beriau, CEC, CCE, AAC
OUTSTANDING CHAPTERS
small Chapter of the year: Four Corners Chapter of the ACF l arge Chapter of the year: ACF Greater Baltimore Chapter l argest Chapter in the ACF: Grand Rapids Chapter
CLASS OF 2025 EMERITUS JUDGES
Alex Darvishi, CEC, AAC, HOF
Joseph Decker, CMPC
Victor Gielisse, CMC, AAC
Gunther Heiland, CMPC®, AAC
Steven Jilleba, CCE, CMC, AAC
Aidan Murphy, CMC, AAC
Thomas Recinella, CEC, AAC
Thomas Peer, CMC, AAC - Posthumous Emeritus Judge
Travis Stehman
The American Culinary Federation Education Foundation
The 2025 National Convention in Las Vegas is now in the books, and what an event! It was action-packed, featuring education, competition, community events, and new initiatives.
The convention started with a bang at the Chef & Child event at Rundle Elementary School, which brought together hundreds of students and their parents with over 15 outstanding partners including the Mary Ann Ty family sponsorship. None of this would have been possible without Chef Vanessa Marquis, CEC, AAC's leadership. THANK YOU to everyone who participated and supported the event."
Moving on to ACF Culinary Team USA 2028 except who knocked it out of the park with their dinner on Tuesday night, helped with the military event, and demonstrated exceptional leadership and professionalism. As the team prepares for the World Cup in 2026 and the Olympics in 2028, they will continue to need the support of all ACF members. I want to extend my gratitude to all chapters and individuals who generously supported the team through donations. During the convention, we raised over $20,000, in addition to sales of knives, chef's toques, and dinner tickets.
The American Academy of Chefs (AAC) congratulates all the award winners, scholarship recipients, and newly inducted Academy Fellows. Additionally, we acknowledge the NASA HUNCH program, where many of us have signed up for a panel that will be heading off into space.
Education was everywhere during this convention, but the new initiatives we announced on the first day were particularly exciting. First, we announced Zero-Cost ACF Membership & Certification for students of accredited programs, which will roll out in autumn 2026. Second, we announced the partnership between the ACFEF and Rouxbe Global Food Group, which will invigorate our apprenticeship programs for the future. There was a buzz all week about these programs and their development potential.
Lastly, with the approval of the ACFEF bylaws, we will be working on restructuring the Foundation to create a transformative environment for building the future of our
organization. We will be adding subject matter experts to the trustees in key areas, including governance, fundraising, finance, and education.
As we move forward, we will need to come together in building the ACFEF for the future with one purpose: we will be stronger together than separate. Continue to watch for future updates and announcements as we begin this transformation.
Barry R. Young, MBA, CEC, CCE, AAC ACF Education Foundation – Chairperson Chapter OH021 - ACF Columbus Chapter
For more information: ACFEF and Rouxbe Partnership: https://vimeo.com/1106926012
2025 American Academy of Chefs Inductees
PRESENTED BY AAC CHAIR
JOE G. AIELLO, CEC, AAC, HOF AND AAC VICE-CHAIR
REIMUND D. PITZ, CEC, CCE, AAC, HOF
David Bressler, CEC, AAC
Aaron J. Bruck, CEC, AAC
Karen A. Cannan, CEPC, AAC
Sean Flaherty, CEC, AAC
Travis Johnson, CEC, AAC
Gabriel Rosado, CEC, CCA, AAC
Michael B. Santos, CEPC, AAC
Scott W. Schmucker, CEC, CCE, AAC
Michael J. Stamets, CEC, AAC
Steven D. Walk, CEC, CCA, AAC
John J. Woods, CEC, CWPC, AAC
John P. Zenk, CEC, CCA, AAC
2025 HONORARY INDUCTEES
Andy Cuthbert, HAAC
Joseph Decker, CMPC®, HAAC
Vincenzo Del Duca, CEC, HAAC
John Fannin, HAAC
Harry Linzmayer, HAAC
Tene Shake, HAAC
2025 AMERICAN ACADEMY OF CHEFS
CULINARY HALL OF FAME CELEBRATED CHEF
Roy Yamaguchi, HHOF
2025 CULINARY HALL OF FAME INDUCTEES
Americo S. DiFronzo, CEC, CCA, AAC, HOF, HBOT
James G. Rhoads, III, CEC, AAC, HOF
Gary L. Sheldon, CEC, AAC, HOF
2025 HONORARY CULINARY HALL OF FAME INDUCTEE
John F. Schlaner, CEC, AAC, HHOF
LEGEND AWARD
This marks the inaugural year of a distinguished new tradition: the induction of exceptional individuals whose lifelong contributions have profoundly shaped the culinary profession. This prestigious award was established to recognize and celebrate those whose impact has been both transformative and enduring—mentors, innovators, leaders, and visionaries whose legacies have elevated our craft and inspired generations of culinary professionals.
To be considered a legend within the American Academy of Chefs is to exemplify extraordinary vision, leadership, and service. These individuals have made significant, enduring contributions to the culinary industry on a national and/or global scale. Their influence extends far beyond their own achievements—through mentorship, advocacy, innovation, and a passion that elevates others and advances the profession for future generations.
Byron J. Bardy, CMC, AAC
Bert P. Cutino, CEC, AAC, HOF, HBOT
John Kaufmann, CEC, AAC, HOF
Ferdinand E. Metz, CMC, AAC, HOF, HBOT
Frederic H. “Fritz” Sonnenschmidt, CMC, AAC, HOF
CHAIR’S MEDAL
Lucio Arancibia, CEC, AAC
LAWRENCE A. CONTI, CEC, AAC, HOF
CHAIR'S ACHIEVEMENT AWARD
Thomas J. Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC, HOF, HBOT
JOSEPH AMENDOLA AWARD
Joseph Decker, CMPC, HAAC
LT. GENERAL JOHN D. MCLAUGHLIN AWARD
Michael L. Minor, CEC, AAC, HOF
CHEF GOOD TASTE AWARD
Patrick D. Mitchell, CEC, AAC
SHARING CULINARY TRADITIONS AWARD
Raimund W. Hofmeister, CMC, AAC
Chef Collin Hilton A NEWER ACF MEMBER Talks About Looking Outward for Inspiration
By Samantha Lande
Corporate Chef de Cuisine Collin Hilton started working in food service when he realized that college wasn't for him, but it was really travel that lit the spark under him to truly pursue a lifelong culinary career. After working in kitchens in Indiana and Arizona and attending culinary school in Arizona, he booked a one-way ticket to South America, where he spent seven months working in various kitchens off tourist visas.
During his time there, he met a lot of people from San Francisco and kept hearing the same message: "If you want to know good food, go where it's grown," he recalls.
So that's exactly what he did. After spending a decade in the Bay Area working at restaurants like SPQR and Range, meeting his wife and starting a family, he returned to the Indianapolis area to be closer to extended family. There he started at Cunningham Restaurant Group, a 43-restaurant, 18-concept group with locations primarily in the Indianapolis area and other parts of Indiana, Ohio, and Kentucky. Chef Hilton serves as chef de cuisine overseeing menu design and development for new and existing concepts—a job that gives him ultimate creativity, which he describes as a double-edged sword.
"My marching orders are to drive the business, make an impact," he says. "It's really cool to have no parameters, but I crave parameters so I often make my own." This may come in the form of setting a flavor profile, determining elements he wants to have in a dish, or working within a certain season.
Although he struggles with self-doubt at times and seeks validation often for his work, he finds it also keeps him looking outward. "I am constantly asking what's going on in the world?" His love for travel helps with exploring this, although it's a little more difficult with a young kid at home.
Chef Hilton was recently able to flex what he's learned while looking outward when he found himself "accidentally" on his way to participating in the World Food Championships, which he discussed on the ACF Chef's Table podcast with ACF Executive Director Christopher Tanner, CEC, CCE, AAC .
He was originally planning to just help out a chef friend, but that chef had a scheduling conflict so Chef Hilton took over the event.
"It just happened to be an outdoor event where chefs from Indianapolis were making a one-bite dish of rice or pasta," he says.
"I just didn't realize that that was a competition until there was a jar in front of my station and people were sticking tickets in it. And I'm like, what? What's happening? Oh, you're voting on this—cool."
Chef Collin Hilton
By the end of the event he was going head-to-head with another chef, tasked with cooking an entree from a random basket of ingredients in an hour.
A month later he was crowned the winner of the 2025 World Food Championship, a chef competition with over 1,200 chefs from 40+ countries, securing a $150,000 grand prize with his spring pea cappellacci in chicken broth with Recado negro, sugar snap pea, and a cashew salsa macha with Meyer lemon.
Chef Hilton is a newer member to ACF but is excited to dive into all the resources offered.
"It's cool to involve yourself with other people who care greatly about something that ultimately the rest of the world may not care about to the level you do," he says as a selfproclaimed culinary "geek" who revels in the camaraderie.
"Any opportunity to make connection with people over something that you're passionate about is just about as human and cool of an idea as you can have."
By ACF Chef Jonathan Deutsch, Ph.D., CRC, CHE
Who doesn't love a pickle? Their crisp tang can add contrast to nearly any dish, even sweets, or form a high-margin appetizer or side dish on their own. While excellent pickled products are available from distributors, many chefs are discovering that running an in-house pickling program brings multiple benefits to their operations: cost savings, increased quality, menu differentiation, sustainability, and operational efficiency.
Chef Kevin Tien and Sous Chef Minsu Son of Moon Rabbit in Washington, D.C., explain their approach, "We pickle in-house because we can better control the acid levels for specific dishes. We utilize a variety of ferments and pickles on our menu, creating unique ingredients found only in our restaurant. We pickle shallots, garlic, wax beans, and other vegetables, often saving scraps to ferment in order to minimize waste."
Cost
Savings
While traditional cucumber dills, bread and butters, pickled jalapeños, and escabeches are readily available from broadline distributors, in-house pickling can reduce costs by approximately 50%, depending on labor costs, staff skills, and ingredient prices. When costing pickles, consider only the drained weight of the product unless you're utilizing the brine as a marinade or bar ingredient.
Chef Kevin Tien
Chef Minsu Son
Pickling vegetable trimmings, such as pepper tops and bottoms, broccoli and cauliflower stems, fennel fronds, and onion and carrot scraps, can yield even greater bottom-line improvements while generating unique dish components. Chef Eli Collins of a.kitchen+bar in Philadelphia, PA, and Washington, D.C., notes:
"Most commercial products have very similar flavor profiles, which is fine, but we're often searching for something unique to bring to the table. It allows us to use all parts of vegetables, whether it's beet greens or trim from cutting specific shapes of root vegetables. It's an incredible tool to minimize waste."
Increased Quality and Menu Differentiation
While basic dill pickles and pickled red onions serve their purpose, an in-house pickling program enables recipe customization to optimize your menu, even creating signature
Chef Eli Collins
Half Chicken Dish at a.kitchen+bar
Pâté Grand-Mère at a.kitchen+bar
dishes. Chef Alec Paki, Executive Chef of Sparrow + Wolf in Las Vegas, NV, explains: "Pickling our products in-house allows us maximum control over the product and lets us create specific flavor profiles best suited for each dish. Through pickling, fermentation, and brining, we've developed new ways to extend shelf life while enhancing our food using this 'secret weapon' technique."
Chef Paki cites their brined Castelvetrano olives as an example: "We roast them over almond wood, glaze them in smoked yuzu butter, and garnish with orange zest and Marcona almonds. This dish transforms a humble ingredient into a standout snack that sets our table at the beginning of the meal."
Sustainability
As kitchens increasingly strive for zero waste, in-house pickle programs offer a flavorful path to full-product utilization and season extension. Consider menu-featured ingredients like preserved lemons made from already-zested fruit, kimchi or sauerkraut crafted from outer leaves not yet tender enough for plating, or pickled ramp bulbs that extend this distinctive spring ingredient's season.
Chef Collins shares a favorite technique: "Spring bulb onions are among our favorite ingredients. The bulbs are wonderfully sweet when slow-roasted until tender. Instead of discarding the tops, we ferment them with herb stems that might otherwise be waste. We then incorporate them into salsa verde by chopping them very finely, adding subtle pops of acidity without the vinegar or citrus juice that tends to overtake sauce flavor and wash out the fresh, verdant color. We serve it as the sauce for our half grilled chicken with husk cherry jus."
Operational Efficiency
While some operations designate specific cooks or entire departments to manage in-house pickling programs, think David Zilber, formerly of Noma's fermentation program, it can be something all team members participate in and learn from. Paki emphasizes the collaborative approach: "Staying on top of our pickling program at Sparrow + Wolf is a real team effort. While all recipe development is done by the chef team, we involve other team members. With proper training, we show them how to produce any prep necessary for their stations, including their pickles." Well-executed in-house pickling programs can yield improvements to margins, sustainability initiatives, and distinctive menu offerings. In an increasingly competitive marketplace, consider this simple and timehonored solution for menu innovation.
Chef Alec Paki
Almond Wood Fired Porterhouse, Aged in White Miso, Selection of American Banchan, Warm Garlic Naan at Sparrow + Wolf in Las Vegas, NV
CLASSICAL
By John Bartimole
vs. Classical
What do a ravenous king, nearly empty cupboards, and a resourceful great aunt have to do with the creation of classic French Onion Soup? Almost everything, if one of the many legends surrounding this beloved dish is correct.
According to the tale, King Louis XV returned from an arduous day of hunting famished, only to find his cupboards virtually bare. Ever resourceful, the king and his great aunt worked with what they could find— onions, butter, and champagne—boiling them together in a pot to create what would become the first iteration of the delicious delicacy now known as French Onion Soup.
Though the recipe has evolved and countless variations exist worldwide, the fundamentals remain unchanged: caramelized onions, beef broth or stock, cheese, and bread, all combined and baked until the topping turns golden and crispy. The soup eventually gained popularity in the United States, aided in part by Julia Child's exposure of French cuisine on television.
Onions have long been a culinary staple because they're easy to grow and inexpensive to purchase, making them an ideal foundation for countless recipes. Once considered peasant fare, the humble onion now anchors one of the most beloved soups in both the United States and Europe. Its core ingredients remain sacred, while its adaptability to chefs' creativity ensures its enduring popularity.
MODERN vs. Modern
ACF Chef Matthew Jost, CEC, CRC , has, by his own admission, "made gallons upon gallons of French Onion soup" during nearly two decades working in French bistros.
"I developed an interest in Japanese mashup cuisines," he explains, "and saw an ad about 'modern vs. classic' in a past issue of NCR. There's significant French influence in Japanese cuisine, so I decided to deconstruct the elements of classical French onion soup and give each component a Japanese twist."
For the traditional bread component, Jost enhances mini cheese croutons by adding sesame seeds alongside gruyere, then baking them until crisp. He transforms the beef broth by incorporating ginger, black garlic, and soy with the traditional onions to amplify the soup's umami depth. "Black garlic has a slightly pungent but pleasing fermented flavor," he notes. "It's warmth in a bowl."
He creates a soubise using onions, heavy cream, and white miso as a thickener, then elevates the presentation with chive blossom petals cooked in mirin as garnish.
"All the elements of classic French Onion Soup," he says, "reimagined."
PIONEERING REGIONAL CHINESE CUISINE
By Jeffrey Spear
Alarge number of Americans view Chinese cuisine as one style of cooking, with stir fries, rice, noodles and soy sauce being the dominant elements.
As a matter of clarification, there are more than 5000 dishes that can be included in Chinese cuisine, many falling into distinctive regional styles known as the "Eight Great Traditions" of Chinese cuisine - Cantonese, Sichuan, Hunan, Fujian, Jiangsu, Shandong, Zhejiang, and Anhui. Other cuisines, including Yunnan, Guizhou, Shaanxi, and Xinjiang, are also gaining recognition. While these cuisines may be familiar to people in China, and perhaps a small number of Chinese diaspora in America's larger cities, only Cantonese, Sichuan, and to a lesser degree, Hunan, are reasonably well known.
Considering there are more than 45,000 Chinese restaurants operating across the United States, each with
Si Yao Chicken, made with fragrant aged soy sauce, by Chef John Liu, Chifa (Los Angeles).
its own ancestry and treasured family recipes, the distinctions between regional Chinese cuisines are frequently blurred, obscured, ignored or lost altogether. Plus, younger generations in Chinese families have not learned to cook, meaning that even more of their culinary heritage is being lost.
In Los Angeles, Chef John Liu is the creative force behind Chifa, a restaurant serving quintessential homecooked Chinese and Peruvian foods, both cuisines being part of his family heritage. "It's easy to lose the thread to traditional foods, techniques and flavors." says Liu. "While experimentation is good, I'm preserving and elevating traditional Cantonese and Taiwanese dishes with better, cleaner ingredients and more efficient cooking techniques." A few of these includes Brulee Char Siu, Si Yao Chicken and Chinese Fries (referencing classic Salt & Pepper Shrimp).
At Mala Sichuan Bistro in Houston, the emphasis is on Sichuan cuisine.
Chef Cori Xiong explains, "The way we cook is on the traditional side of Chinese cuisine." When asked about her creativity, she continues "We start with classic Sichuan flavors, then layer in a few special ingredients such as hotbed chives, sauerkraut and bacon in a manner that results in proprietary dishes." A few of these include Vine Peppercorn Fish Fillet, Green Tea Bacon Fried Rice and Beef Brisket with Mushroom Medley.
When you understand just how massive China is, and that many of its cuisines are separated by challenging terrain and significant distances, it
may take some time before these distinctive regional styles find their way into American culinary culture. Plus, some regional cuisines, especially those like Xinjiang on China's western border, have been influenced by proximity to Eastern Europe and travelers along the Silk Road, producing dishes such as braised mutton with cumin, making them difficult to recognize as Chinese cuisine, especially to Americans.
As exposure to regional Chinese cuisines broadens, chefs are discovering elements that align with American culinary preferences for bolder, spicier and more exotic dining experiences. In particular, the sweet and versatile Cantonese char siu barbeque sauce; fiery Sichuan chilies, peppercorns and mala sauce; slightly spicy Fujian shacha; chili crisp from the Guizhou province; and sour flavors derived from fermented ingredients used in several regional cuisines.
Chef John Liu, Chifa (Los Angeles)
Red Oil Dumplings, slathered in red chili oil, ground garlic and sweet and spicy soy paste, from Chef Cori Xiong, Mala Sichuan (Houston).
Chef Cori Xiong, Mala Sichuan (Houston)
Wood fired Pork Jowl Char Siu by Chef John Liu, Chifa (Los Angeles).
Beef Brisket with Mushroom Medley features yellow hotbed chives, from Chef Cori Xiong, Mala Sichuan (Houston).
They're also experimenting, creating innovative "fusion" dishes that overlook the elements of authentic Chinese cuisine in favor of something altogether new and different. While this level of innovation is prized, Chef Andrew Hunter, one of this country's leading research and development chefs, reminds us, "Appropriation has become a sensitive issue. It's important to approach the development of new, Chinese inspired recipes with integrity, using authentic ingredients and calling out the point of origin whenever possible."
"There's added value from the storytelling opportunity, whether revealed by servers or spelled out on menus, that should not be overlooked."
Chef Andrew Hunter
While Cantonese cuisine has been leading the way for many years, starting with the Gold Rush in the 1920s, and Sichuan has been gaining popularity since the 1970s, there is tremendous opportunity for chefs to lean into the foundations of these other regional cuisines, learn about their ingredients and cooking techniques, and find ways to introduce some of these dishes onto their menus.
SIDEBAR Regional Chinese Cuisines of Note
ANHUI - East - Salty, umami flavors. Wild game, river seafoods, herbs, vegetables and mushrooms. Slow cooking, rich braises and stews. Fewer stir-fries than other cuisines.
CANTONESE - South - Most popular outside of China. Fresh ingredients, natural flavors and cooking methods that include steaming and stir-frying.
Dishes: Dim Sum, Char Siu (BBQ Pork), Beef Chow Fun.
FUJIAN - Southeast - Coastal and mountainous territories, light, fresh, and umami-rich flavors using seafood, woodland herbs and mushrooms. Excellent soups and broths.
Chef Andrew Hunter, a leading research and development chef with a focus on menu and product development.
Short Rib Scallion Pancake by Chef Andrew Hunter
Rou Jia Mo
Dishes: Buddha Jumps Over the Wall, Oyster Omelette, Ginger Duck.
GUIZHOU - Southwest - Bold and distinctive flavors. A balance of tangy and aromatic elements including fermented and pickled vegetables, generous use of chili peppers.
SICHUANSouthwest - Hot, bold, flavorful and spicy. Chilies, Sichuan peppercorns (mala - numbing and spicy), garlic, ginger, fermented black beans.
Dishes: Mapo Tofu, Dan Dan Noodles, Kung Pao Chicken.
XINJIANG - Northwest - Blend of Central Asian and Chinese. Features lamb, beef, noodles, rice, and spices including cumin, cinnamon, chili peppers and other aromatics.
Dishes: Uyghur Polo (pilaf), Laghman (hand-pulled noodles), Xinjiang Cumin Lamb.
YUNNAN - Southwest - Blend of Han Chinese and ethnic minority cuisines. A wide range of flavors and dishes, fresh, local ingredients. A balance of spice and sourness.
Dishes: Steam Pot Chicken, Yunnan Mushroom Hotpot, Crossing the Bridge Noodles.
ZHEJIANG - East Coast - Prioritizes fish and shellfish from the sea and freshwater rivers. Fresh, seasonal ingredients. Light, focus on natural flavors, no heavy sauces or spices.
Dishes: Dongpo Pork, Jinjua Ham and Beggar's Chicken.
Mapo Tofu
Yangzhou Friend Rice
Xiao Long Bao
HOW A SICHUAN STAPLE IS TRANSFORMING AMERICAN CUISINE REVOLUTION: THE
CHLI CRISP
By Lauren Kramer
Once a product found exclusively in Asia, chili crisp is making big strides in the US, with a 1,274% menu penetration on American restaurant menus over the past four years. Datassential projects it will grow another 281% over the coming four years, ranking it as one of the top foods for projected growth.
So if you've not heard of chili crisp yet, it's time to read up. Chili crisp can be purchased or made in-house. Chef Jing Gao, author of The Book of Sichuan Chili Crisp: Spicy Recipes and Stories from Fly By Jing's Kitchen, makes her version by infusing aromatics such as cassia bark, anise, and cardamom into hot oil until the flavor is released. Chef Gao strains out the aromatics, using the oil to fry garlic, ginger, and preserved black beans. Then she adds ground chili, mushroom powder, salt, and ground roasted Sichuan peppercorns, followed by sesame oil, shallots, and more garlic. The spice level is easily adjusted by lowering the quantity of chili powder, but regardless of how hot you like your chili crisp, "the result is a bold, layered chili crisp that gets even better with time as the flavor develops," Chef Gao said.
Chili crisp has a wide variety of applications, though in restaurants it's most frequently paired with seafood and chicken, in rice bowls, tacos, and burritos. It's also starting to appear in unique applications like chili crisp butter, chili crisp alfredo, and chili crisp ice cream.
Chef Gao recalls walking the halls of Expo West in 2018 and noting the absence of Asian representation in consumer packaged goods.
"I wanted to help people discover and fall in love with the bold, unapologetic flavors I grew up with, and chili crisp felt like the most natural place to start."
Chef Jing Gao
On Chef Gao's family dinner table, chili crisp was a staple, served on noodles, dumplings, and stir-fries, but Chef Gao believed it had many other applications. "I wanted to break it out of the Asian condiment box and show people it belonged everywhere: on eggs, roasted veggies, even Costco rotisserie chicken. It's not just a sauce, it's a gateway to a new way of eating and experiencing flavor," Chef Gao said.
That same year Chef Gao began importing chili crisp from Chengdu, China under the brand Fly By Jing. When Chef Gao published her book in 2023, she included traditional recipes like Mapo tofu and Chengdu sweet water noodles, as well as nontraditional ones, such as chili crisp almond butter cookies and chili crisp ice cream sundaes. "Pairing chili crisp with vanilla ice cream always catches people off guard, but the rich, creamy sweetness of the ice cream meets the tingly, umamipacked heat of chili crisp, and it just works," Chef Gao said.
Mapo Tofu
Biscuit
Chef Gao has partnered with restaurants and food service providers for menu collaborations, such as the spicy Wagyu dumplings at Panda Express, the Sichuan Chili Crisp Chicken Burger at Shake Shack, and a Sichuan Chili Crisp California roll with Hissho Sushi.
Chef Gao believes nearly every dish can be boosted with the bold Sichuan flavors found in chili crisp. "There aren't enough adjectives to fully describe its transformational powers," Chef Gao said.
"But at its best, chili crisp is a perfect marriage of flavors and textures. It's intensely flavorful, savory, a bit tingly, crispy, and full of layered flavor that awakens your taste buds. It makes bland foods sing, balances the sweetness of desserts, and adds crunch where you didn't even know you needed it."
Chef Jing Gao
SIDEBAR ACF Ingredient of the Month
Chili crisp was featured as the July 2025 Ingredient of the Month by the American Culinary Federation (ACF). Bold, spicy, and irresistibly crunchy, chili crisp has taken simple ingredients rooted in Chinese tradition and turned them into an international culinary phenomenon. Bursting with heat, texture, and umami, this global ingredient has chefs and cooks spicing up everything from noodles and eggs to even ice cream. You can learn more about chili crisp and all ACF's ingredients of the month at acfchefs.org. Download the PowerPoint presentation and complete the quiz by logging on to the ACF Online Learning Center to earn one hour of continuing-education credits toward ACF certification.
Mapo Tofu
Oats
Spicy Tahini Cream Cheese-Swirled Brownies
October 4, 2023 | James Park/Chili Crisp
16 servings | 1 hr
INGREDIENTS
• Very Nutty Chili Crisp (makes about 2½ cups)
• 5 tablespoons (40g) gochugaru
5 tablespoons (40g) sichuan chili flakes
• 2 tablespoons Aleppo pepper flakes
1 t ablespoon light brown sugar
• 1½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup (140g) coarsely chopped nuts
• 1½ cups (360ml) neutral oil, such as vegetable or canola
• B rownie Batter
• O ne 18 ounces (500g) box brownie mix, plus any additional ingredients per package instructions
• 3 t ablespoons Very Nutty Chili Crisp
1 teaspoon kosher salt
• tahini-Cream Cheese l ayer
8 ounces (230g) cream cheese
• ¼ cup (50g) granulated sugar
2 tablespoons tahini
• 1 large egg
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
DIRECTIONS
1. Make the chili crisp: In a heatproof medium bowl, combine the gochugaru, sichuan chili flakes, Aleppo pepper flakes, brown sugar and salt. set aside.
2. In a dry, small saucepan, toast the chopped nuts for about 3 to 5 minu tes over medium heat, or until lightly browned but not completely dark. Add the toasted nuts to the bowl with the spices.
3. In the same saucepan, add the oil over high heat and let it warm for about 3 minutes, or until lightly smoking.
4. Carefully drizzle the hot oil into the bowl of nuts and spices and let it sizzle for the flavors to bloom. If it doesn’t sizzle, heat the oil in 30-second intervals. let it sit for 5 minutes, then mix every t hing together. Once the mixture comes to room temperature, transfer it to an airtight container. you can store it at room temperat ure, but for longer storage, keep it in the refrigerator, where it will keep for about three months.
5. Make the brownies: Preheat the oven to the temperature indicated on the package instructions. Butter a 9-inch square baking pan and line it with parchment paper.
6. Prepare your brownie batter according to package instructions. Once the batter is made, add the chili crisp and salt. Mix everything together. s et aside 1 tablespoon of the batter for the swirl on top. Pour the remaining batter into your prepared baking pan.
7. Make the tahini-cream cheese layer: In a food pro cessor, add the cream cheese, granulated sugar, tahini, egg and vanilla and run until everything is smooth.
8. Pour the tahini-cream cheese layer on top of the brownies in the baking pan. spread it across the pan to make sure it covers the brownie batter, then set the pan aside.
9. In a small bowl, add ½ teaspoon of water to the reserved batter to make it a little loose. With a spoon, add small dollops of chili crisp across the tahini-cream cheese layer, followed by dollops of brownie batter. using a chopstick or somet hing similar, make swirls through the chili crisp and brownie batter dollops.
10. Bake the brownies according to package instructions. let them cool slightly and serve warm. t he brownies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to four days.
ACF Chefs of Las Vegas:
By John Bartimole
CONTINUING A LEGACY OF COMMUNITY SERVICE
Chef Angela Armstrong , president of the ACF Chefs of Las Vegas chapter, brings both pragmatism and optimism to her leadership of an organization that has been serving the Las Vegas culinary community since 1968. "Our chapter is vibrant with about 85 very active members," she said. "We have a passionate group of culinary professionals who are deeply committed to making a difference in our community." Not only is the chapter vibrant; it continues its legacy by remaining deeply involved in its original causes, community service and education, as it has been for decades.
Since its founding, the organization has been laser-focused on helping charities, particularly those involved with children and nutrition. That legacy continues today.
"Back then, the late Chef Michael Ty, CEC, AAC, HOF, a former president of our chapter as well as the national organization (the American Culinary Federation), learned of a charity called Chef and Child and wanted to do something locally, so he suggested the chapter start a Chef for Kids charity," Chef Armstrong explained. "That's how our sponsored charity began, with Chef Ty as its president for many years."
The charity, among its other initiatives, focuses on Title I schools to address food instability and other nutrition issues. "For example, we will go into one of the schools, wearing our uniforms and work together to feed the kids a healthy, nutritious breakfast," Chef Armstrong said. "The kids love it, and so do we." The effort serves more than 10,000 students in at-risk elementary schools per year.
The chapter's involvement extends beyond direct food service. It participates in ProStart, supporting the annual high school culinary challenge, and donates funds to the Clark County School District's Southeast Career Technical Academy Culinary program.
"We mentor the kids and serve as judges in the challenge,"
Chef Angela Armstrong
"We give them advice, and sometimes we have to tell them, 'Just relax. Breathe!' The kids really tend to get nervous, but they enjoy the competition and we all have fun doing it."
Chef Angela Armstrong
The chapter's community outreach continues yearround. On Christmas Eve morning, members donate gifts and breakfast to the Shade Tree Women's Shelter. During COVID-19, the chapter's Chefs4Vegas initiative provided food assistance to families in need. Recently, its Nosh and Network event was held at the Blooming Bistro, a restaurant dedicated to bringing hope to at-risk youth in the Las Vegas area.
Most recently, the chapter participated in two significant community service events just before the ACF National Convention. On July 26, 2025, members volunteered for the second annual "Operation Chefs: A Recipe for Change," which included a Back to School Healthy Food Festival at Rundle Elementary School that served approximately 400 children and parents. Later that same day, chapter members prepared and served dinner to veterans at the U.S. Vets Las Vegas facility, demonstrating their commitment to serving those who served our country.
Each year, the chapter presents scholarships of $2,000 to area culinary students in honor of Chef Ty.
The chapter's focus on the future continues with its participation in the Vivid Careers event, which showcases career opportunities in the culinary arts and related fields. However, Chef Armstrong recognizes the culinary arts aren't for everyone.
"Being a chef is akin to being in the military," she said. "You miss time with family, you have backbreaking work, you might end up with a missing finger or two, or at least a bad back and aching feet, but you do it because you love it. You're using your skills and your passion to nourish another human being.
"In reality, you're taking somebody's life in your hands with your cooking, which is why passion and attention to safety and
detail are so important," she continued. "You always want to make the best, safest food you possibly can."
Chef Armstrong cited a powerful example of passion from a young student who was allergic to shellfish of any kind.
"So what did she do the day they were preparing shellfish? She wrapped herself up in Saran Wrap, covered every part of her body that could come in contact with the shellfish, and used gloves," Chef Armstrong said. "Why? Because she knew she wanted to learn how to prepare and cook shellfish. That's passion and commitment!"
"It's easy to know when a young chef has the passion for the industry," she said. "If they take direction and learn from it, if they practice at home, then you know they have that passion."
The chapter always welcomes students to its meetings and maintains close ties with the College of Southern Nevada and the University of Nevada, Las Vegas, as well as local high schools.
"We enjoy having the students at our meetings,"
Chef Angela Armstrong
"We have an opportunity to mentor them and, we hope, help them choose a career in culinary. Someone did that for us, and we enjoy doing that for them. It's our future."
Chef & Child Event - Vegas Chapter
Chef & Child Event - Vegas Chapter
Don't miss the full podcast episode with Christopher Tanner interviewing Chef Martin Yan. Stream the complete episode now.
A Conversation with Martin Yan Bridging Cultures Through Culinary Excellence
Chef Christopher Tanner, CEC, CCE, AAC, Executive Director of the American Culinary Federation, sat down with culinary television pioneer and global ambassador Martin Yan, HAAC, HHOF, President of Yan Can Cook and Honorary Advisor of the Asian Chefs Alliance. As the first officially recognized Asian chefs chapter under the American Culinary Federation, the Asian Chefs Alliance is dedicated to promoting Asian culinary culture and integrating authentic Asian cuisine into the mainstream fine dining scene across the United States. In this intimate conversation, Chef Yan shared insights from his four-decade career, from his groundbreaking television work that introduced Chinese cooking to millions of American homes, to his current role in elevating Asian cuisine on the world stage through the ACA.
Martin Yan is a legendary figure in the culinary world, celebrated for his enduring influence on global Chinese cuisine. He gained international fame through his iconic television program, Yan Can Cook, which introduced millions to Chinese cooking with warmth, humor, and authenticity.
With a career spanning over four decades, Chef Yan has authored more than 30 cookbooks and received multiple James Beard Awards. His mission has always been to make Chinese food approachable while honoring its deep cultural roots. Beyond television, he has served as a culinary ambassador, bridging East and West through food. Chef Yan’s contributions have left a lasting impact on both professional chefs and home cooks around the world.
"What inspired you to take the leap and share Chinese cuisine with American audiences on such a big stage?"
"It has to start with my childhood upbringing. When I was growing up, China was experiencing probably the most turbulent, the most challenging time in modern Chinese history. There was nothing to eat. Everything was rationed... So I left when I was about 13 by myself with $5 in my pocket with two underwear, two socks, and a couple of shirts, and with my red hand suitcase... That's why I probably have done about maybe 2 million chickens. That's why I was able to break down a chicken in 18 seconds. Those years trained me to be assertive, to believe in myself and I got to be a fighter."
"Speaking of cultural bridges, I have to share this story. I was introduced to chopsticks in the eighties of all places by McDonald's. When they introduced sweet and sour sauce in the eighties, they had chopsticks as part of the promotion to teach kids how to use chopsticks. And I learned how to use chopsticks from McDonald's of all places."
"That's amazing! Chinese cuisine has become mainstream. Before pandemic, 52,000-53,000 Chinese restaurants, a lot more than all the fast food chains combined. You have about close to 80,000 Asian restaurants now. Anywhere you go with any population over 2000, you probably see a Chinese restaurant, maybe not a Mexican or Italian restaurant, but a Chinese restaurant."
"What do you feel has been your biggest impact on Chinese culture in America?"
"I encourage everyone to use chopsticks and have a wok at home because the wok is probably the most versatile cooking utensil on earth. You can use it for making pizza, you can bake, you can smoke, you can stir fry, you can steam, you can deep fry. When you eat with chopsticks, you can savor every bite and eat more healthily."
"Why do you think Americans are now getting excited by the breadth and depth of Chinese food?"
"A lot of people don't realize that China actually has 32 very distinctive cuisines and 108 different styles of cooking. To really study the complexity of Chinese cuisine takes about a lifelong study and pursuit. Travel, communication, the internet, all the high tech—it gets people ready to learn more, to accept more."
Which regional traditions should chefs focus on?
"If you go to China or Hong Kong, they always say 'eat in Guangzhou, eat in Canton.' Cantonese food is probably the most complex and the most diverse because they execute more techniques than most other parts of China. They steam the most, they stir fry a lot, they also poach, they also braise, double boil, they also smoke. Many dishes use a combination of three techniques."
What advice would you give to culinary students who want to learn authentic Chinese cuisine?
"After you graduate, spend maybe six weeks to a couple months working in Manila, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Tokyo, particularly Singapore. Immerse yourself, go to the market, go to the seafood market, go to the local wet market. First, ask yourself, are you truly passionate about food and cooking? If you say yes, then learn as much as you can and pick up your skill. Skill is the most important part."
You always talk about cooking being a sensual experience.
"I always tell people I love cooking because it's the most sensuous, the most sexy career that you can ever get into. You use all your senses, you use your smell, your taste, your hearing. When something is crackling, you know that something is happening. You use your touch."
If you could serve one dish that represents your entire career, what would it be?
"I would do clay pot rice. My mom would have limited tools, limited resources. She'd cook rice, and when it's almost done, we'd put Chinese sausage, mushroom and marinated chicken on top. Toward the last few minutes, you put a tiny bit of baby bok choy on top. You have a one-pot meal. It's comforting, traditional, and you waste nothing—that brings back a lot of memory."
Before we wrap up, can you share your famous catchphrase?
"If Yan can, so can you! This is always my job. I try to inspire people. There's no sense of saying Yan can cook, you cannot. So I always say if Yan can, so can you."
NEW FLAVORS,
By Robert Wemischner
Looking at the pantry of ingredients from which Pastry Chef Susan Bae draws, you might think you've happened upon the wrong larder. At Moon Rabbit, a progressive South Asian restaurant in Washington, DC, where she expertly plies her trade, Chef Bae creates a host of desserts that include all kinds of Asian ingredients, from miso to soy sauce, and from durian to an assortment of fresh mushrooms.
Moving seamlessly from the savory menu, which is modern Vietnamese in inspiration, Chef Bae fashions desserts that flow naturally from the main courses and act as a not-too-sweet exclamation point at the end of the meal. "I'm Korean-American and take inspiration from some of the moderately sweet endings to meals I enjoyed growing up," she explains.
Catering to a varied clientele from Gen Z to older seasoned diners, Chef Bae stresses the importance of education: "We need to be sure that our servers can explain the stories behind the sweets—the whys and the hows—given that the desserts range widely over the pan-Asian landscape, from Filipino and Korean to Japanese and Vietnamese. Education is key, giving context for the sweet course that comes at the end of a meal."
Pastry Chef Susan Bae
Green Curry Spongecake, Soursop Mousse, Avocado Sorbet, Fish Sauce Caramel, Finger Lime by Susan Bae, Moon Rabbit, Washington, DC
"I'm big on umami and draw from all over the place, scouring the culinary landscape," Chef Bae continues, "from Phu Quoc in Vietnam for its famous fish sauce, which figures in a caramel, to the green curries of Thailand, whose complex personality flavors an oil that then ends up in the cake component of a dessert." Even durian, that highly divisive fruit ubiquitous in much of Asia, is at the center of her most popular dessert at the restaurant. "I balance its strong scent with white chocolate, adding passion fruit for tartness and fronds of baby dill for a visual accent."
Executive Chef Anthony Jung , another chef with a love for Asian ingredients reflecting his Korean background, says, "Cooking as a career chose me." Twenty-six years later, he heads the innovative and highly lauded retail dining operation at the University of Massachusetts, Amherst. A winner of 18 gold medals in ACF competitions, Chef Jung is training to be on the team for the Culinary Olympics in 2008. His love for the art and craft of making desserts using Asian fruits, in particular, stems from an epiphany he had over 30 years ago when tasting a juicy, fragrant Asian pear for the first time.
Inspired by that experience, Chef Jung draws upon Western dessert techniques but turns toward East Asia, using ingredients from the Asian pantry. His inspirations range from jackfruit in a compote featuring Grand Marnier and vanilla to a Bavarian cream flavored with durian or a cheesecake topped with paper-thin slices of Asian pear. Special donor events on campus spur Chef Jung to take deep dives into the flavors of his cultural heritage, and campus dining is all the richer for it.
ANCIENT ROOTS
Executive Chef Anthony Jung
Pastry Chef and Consultant Pichet Ong , well known to many top-flight restaurants around the country, believes that "chefs gravitate to ingredients that they know and love, and in turn, these ingredients are showcased for their flavor, aesthetics, and textures in sweet contexts." Chef Ong's book The Sweet Spot, published in 2007 and written with Genevieve Ko, led the way for chefs to combine Asian ingredients with classical pastry techniques, yielding desserts that would fit equally well at the end of an Asian or Western menu.
Creating desserts at Matsuhisa in Beverly Hills, California, Pastry Chef Kei Hasegawa works Japanese ingredients such as umami-rich miso paste, kinako—a fine powder with a nutty, slightly sweet flavor made from roasted soybeans—kuromitsu, or black sugar syrup, the flower and leaves of the cherry blossom tree, matcha green tea, and black sesame paste seamlessly into meal endings that neatly follow the classic dishes on Nobu
Matcha Molten Cake
Yield: 10 servings
Each portion weighs approximately 120g
Butter and cornstarch to coat each 7 cm ring mold, as needed
20g Culinary Grade Matcha (finely powdered Japanese green tea)
120g white rice flour
500g white chocolate, chopped
120g unsalted butter
80g granulated sugar
380g whole eggs, at room temperature
Matsuhisa's menus, with their focus on fish and seafood, both cooked and raw.
"I particularly like to use miso for its salty edge in a sweet context, flavoring a caramel sauce," Chef Hasegawa enthuses.
"I love using culinary-grade matcha green tea powder from Japan, with its rich astringency, balanced by the sweet vanilla notes of white chocolate."
Pastry Chef Kei Hasegawa
Durian Mousse, White Chocolate, Passionfruit
Granita, Dill by Susan Bae, Moon Rabbit, Washington, DC
1. Using a dry whisk, in a bowl, combine rice flour and matcha tea and set aside.
2. Lightly coat the inside of the ring molds with butter, as needed and then coat with cornstarch, shaking off excess.
3. Melt white chocolate and unsalted butter in a double boiler, stirring until smooth.
4. Add whole eggs and blend until smooth.
5. Add sugar and blend until sugar has fully incorporated into the mixture.
6. Add the mixture of white rice flour and matcha.
7. Divide mixture equally into 10 prepared ring molds.
8. B ake at 180° C for about 12 mins. The center of the cake should be flowing.
9. Remove from oven, garnish, and serve immediately.
Pastry Chef Kei Hasegawa, Matsuhisa, Beverly Hills, CA
By Howard Riell
Maintenance Mode: ACTIVATED DEACTIVATED
When kitchen equipment fails, restaurants lose more than just money, they lose time, reputation, and customer satisfaction. The solution is straightforward: maintain your equipment properly. Industry experts share their best practices for keeping commercial kitchens running smoothly.
Follow the Schedule
Refrigeration and ice machines "are always in need of cleaning and maintenance," warns Executive Chef Marilyn Schlossbach, of the ACF Jersey Shore Chefs Association. She is principal of The Marilyn Group, which operates dining venues like Langosta Lounge, Whitechapel Projects American Kitchen, Bar + Events, and Saltwater Market, plus Marilyn Schlossbach Catering & Events in Asbury Park, NJ.
"Ice machines need quarterly cleaning for sure, and vacuuming compressors on refrigeration units monthly helps keep them functioning more efficiently," Chef Schlossbach advises. "Hoods and grease traps should be serviced at least twice a year, maybe more, depending on your volume and menu."
Chef Schlossbach emphasizes the importance of establishing procedures alongside regular cleaning schedules. "Fryers need attention weekly or bi-weekly, depending on your menu. Companies like Filta will come in to recycle and filter oil, saving you money. Hood and grease trap frequency will be dictated by your state regulations."
Cleaning Is Critical
"When we're talking about heavy equipment, line refrigeration like lowboys that get opened and closed frequently during service requires the most maintenance," says Executive Chef Paul Fehribach , co-owner with Mark Armantrout of Big Jones, which features Southern cuisine sourced from local farms and farmers' markets around Chicagoland. "Combi ovens also demand attention because they have so many moving parts. Hood and duct systems must be cleaned quarterly."
At Chef Fehribach's establishment, staff handles cleaning and sanitation.
"With most equipment, regular and thorough cleaning accounts for 90% of maintenance. However, anything involving wiring, compressors, ignition systems, thermostats, duct systems, and fans absolutely must be serviced by a trusted professional."
Executive Chef Paul Fehribach
Big Jones staff members learn the fundamentals of regular cleaning, including "how to disassemble components, clean the parts, and reassemble them properly," according to Chef Fehribach.
Executive Chef Marilyn Schlossbach
Be Proactive
Preventive maintenance remains the best strategy for ensuring optimal and consistent equipment performance, explains Ken Schwartz, FCSI , principal of SSA Foodservice Design + Consulting in Tampa, FL. The most common mistakes kitchen staff make regarding equipment maintenance are ignoring maintenance requirements and lacking proper training for maintenance procedures.
Manufacturers provide suggested requirements that include daily maintenance procedures "which must be followed," says Schwartz. "Staff typically performs these procedures, while more complex maintenance requires a factory-authorized service agent or third-party provider."
Draft Clear Guidelines
Bob McCafferty, who owns North Country Brewing Company in Slippery Rock, PA, with his wife Jodi, operators of North Country Brew Pub and The Harmony Inn, has developed proprietary maintenance scheduling policies and procedures. "Different equipment has varying preventive maintenance timelines, but anything with a filter or fan needs attention bi-monthly."
The most common mistake McCafferty observes is allowing front- and back-of-house staff to neglect work chart adherence. "When staff fails to wipe sticky gaskets and door seals on equipment, new gaskets must be installed, only to repeat the cycle." Unfortunately, he notes, "staff will forget or resist getting on board. I've employed dedicated maintenance people previously, but ultimately, it's been my responsibility for the past five years."
Invest in Training
"Depending on the equipment, outside training may be necessary," suggests Jay Bandy, President of Goliath Consulting Group in Decatur, GA. "Combi ovens, while complex, usually have cleaning programs and details built into the unit that appear on the electronic display."
Fryers and other equipment, Bandy points out, while less complex, "can be more difficult to service without proper training."
Ken Schwartz
Jay Bandy
NCR Quiz
July/August 2025
By Robert Penry
Who received the 2025 National Dr. L.J. Minor Chef Professionalism Award at the ACF Convention in Las Vegas?
a. C hef Kevin Penn, CEC, CCA
b. C hef Jay Ziobrowski, CEC
c. C hef Kevin Doherty, CEC, CCA, AAC
d. C hef Jay Rathmann, CEC, CCA
One reason Chef Kevin Tien of Moon Rabbit in Washington, DC prepares all his pickled ingredients in house is:
a. To control acid levels
b. To increase walk-in cooler space
c. To follow traditional French technique
d. To eliminate toxic preservatives
When costing pickles, you consider only drained weight unless the brine is used as a marinade or bar ingredient.
a. Tr ue
b. Fa lse
Which ingredient does Chef Eli Collins use in salsa verde to preserve color and add acidity?
a. P ickled broccoli stems
b. W hite miso paste
c. R oasted green olives
d. F ermented spring onion tops
What initially sparked Chef Collin Hilton’s passion for a lifelong culinary career?
a. A ttending a culinary camp
b. Traveling to South America
c. W inning a local cooking competition
d. Working in the Bay Area
Cantonese cuisine first gained traction in the United States during which time period?
a. 1920s Gold Rush
b. Wo rld War II
c. T he Silk Road era
d. T he 1970s
Hunan cuisine is set apart from other regional Chinese cuisines due to its avoidance of chiles and garlic in its dishes.
a. Tr ue
b. Fa lse
Which cuisine is noted for excellent soups and broths such as Buddha Jumps Over the Wall?
a. F ujian
b. S handong
c. Hu nan
d. A nhui
Which chef was presented with the Sharing Culinary Traditions Award at the 2025 American Academy of Chefs (AAC) Induction Ceremony?
a. R aimund W. Hofmeister, CMC, AAC
b. J ohn F. Schlaner, CEC, AAC, HHOF
c. P atrick D. Mitchell, CEC, AAC
d. J oseph Decker, CMPC, HAAC
According to legend, the first French Onion Soup was created by:
a. J ulia Child and her assistant
b. C hef Auguste Escoffier
c. K ing Louis XV and his great aunt
d. A P arisian street vendor
See the rest of the questions, finish the quiz and earn four CEHs toward your certification on ACF’s new
What ingredients does Chef Matthew Jost, CEC, CRC add to the beef broth to give umami depth to his modern French Onion Soup?
a. W hite miso, sake, kombu
b. G inger, black garlic, soy
c. Po nzu, mushrooms, mirin
d. Togarashi, miso, dashi
According to Datassential, chili crisp menu penetration in the U.S. grew by what percentage over the past four years?
a. 2 7.4%
b. 2 74%
c. 1,274%
d. 2 ,274%
Chili crisp is typically made by adding cold oil directly to dried chilies without prior infusion of aromatics.
a. Tr ue
b. Fa lse
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