Mountains

Fjords, snow, mountains, whales, and the dancing northern lights

It’s one of the best places in the world to see the northern lights. From November to January, humpback whales and orcas put on a spectacular display of natural beauty here like nowhere else. Tromsø and Senja, in Norway’s far north, are absolute bucket list material for anyone who loves nature and outdoor sports.

The Paris of the North, the capital of the Arctic, the gateway to the North Pole: Tromsø is a city of many nicknames, and as soon as you visit it and the region around it, they all become immediately clear. The city of Tromsø actually spans two different islands, Tromsøya and Kval, and at a latitude of just below 70° North – 350 km above the Arctic Circle – the title of “Gateway to the North Pole” is by no means exaggerated.

The island of Tromsøya is connected to the mainland via the Tromsø bridge and a tunnel. From Tromsøya, you cross the Sandnessund Bridge to get to sister island Kvaløya. Spread out over multiple islands, the city is one of the most diffuse in Europe. But the heart of the city is unmistakeable from its large

concentration of traditional wooden houses. Tromsø is a cultural hub for the entire region, and the northernmost university city in the world. Tromsø’s university, which is specialized in marine biology and Arctic research, attracts students from all over the world, and its international impact can be seen the many trendy bars, lounges and restaurants in the town center. The city’s profile and importance rose particularly dramatically in the 19th century, when it earned its nickname of “the Paris of the North”. It was the starting point for a long litany of famous polar expeditions, and also the center of the hunting trade in the Arctic region. Tromsø was the favorite home base for the expeditions of perhaps the world’s most

TROMSØ AND SENJA, Norway

mes Bond experience center on the Gaislachkogel. But Sölden is a Mecca for outdoor sports in the summer as well.

At the end of the valley, nestled in between the highest summits of the Ötztal Alps, you’ll find two mountain villages: Hochgurgl and Obergurgl. At almost two thousand meters up, these twin villages can be considered among the most snow-sure in the Alps. And Hochgurgl is also the starting point of the Timmelsjoch Hochalpenstraße, the mountain pass between the Ötztal and Italy, which is also Austria’s highest border crossing.

In the middle of the Ötztal, you’ll find a historic spa town: Längenfeld. The healing and beneficial effects of the

spring water in Längenfeld have been heralded since at least the 16th century. Over the years this reputation led to the establishment of a wide array of thermal baths here, and today the offerings are very extensive, with the modern Aqua Dome the contemporary highlight among them.

If you’re a hiking lover, I would recommend you start with Oetz im Ötztal. With the Oetz-Hochoetz mountain train that takes you quickly and comfortably to the Hochoetz hiking area at over 2000 m up, it’s no wonder that this village is so popular. Then there’s the family-friendly ski area connected with Kühtai, where you can bust all your moves on 41 km of ski runs. Or in summer, hike to the idyllic Piburger

Lake for some swimming, diving, rowing or fishing. Also don’t miss the traditional Tyrolean mountain village of Vent, in the shadow of the Wildspitze. Known primarily for its many hiking trails that take you straight into deep forests and along spectacular glaciers, it’s also the most common starting point for attempts to climb Similaun and Wildspitze.

Wildspitze

The first to stand on the south summit of the Wildspitze was Leander Klotz in 1848. But it was another 13 years before the

north summit was conquered, in 1861 – by the same Leander, and via a connection from the south summit. Back then, the north summit was higher than the south, but thanks to melting ice on the summit, today the south one comes out on top at 3774 m.

The glacial landscape around the Wildspitze is mesmerizing. The Wildspitze is not one of the most difficult threethousanders to climb; it can be done in either summer or winter (on foot or on touring skis). The most popular route starts at Vent and, via the Breslauer hut (2844 m) heads over the Mitterkarjoch (3468 m) to the summit. The passage on the Mitterkarjoch is the most challenging, but these days is nicely secured.

The Five Lakes Walk is a classic hike and one of the most beautiful you can do around Zermatt. As the name suggests, it takes you past five different lakes.

more impressive, something I would have scarcely believed possible yesterday. Between Gornergrat and Rotenboden, you are walking on ice hundreds of meters thick. We make our first stop at Riffelsee, where take a detour of a few hundred meters to the lake. At the end of this short hike towards the glacier, an indescribably beautiful view of the Riffelhorn awaits. It’s a hot summer, but there is still snow here. And remember those sheep we talked about when we were discussing the canton of Valais? Well, they’re here, grazing. In fact, if you want to see them between Gornergrat and Riffelalp, that’s virtually guaranteed thanks to the GPS trackers in their collars. Just follow the signal to meet a sheep. You can even take part in a sheep-oriented hike, and help feed and care for the animals along the way, with shepherdess Deborah. But we take the time on the Riffelalp to feed our own growling bellies instead and then continue our hike back to Zermat through the woods, via Findelbach and Winkelmatten.

The five lakes

The Five Lakes Walk is a classic hike and one of the most beautiful you can do around Zermatt. As the name suggests, it takes you past five different lakes. In three of them, you will see the reflection of the Matterhorn on sunny days. The trail starts on the Rothorn (3103 m), or, more specifically, the Unterrothorn. Should we point out here that Rothorn is another place where you have a spectacular view of the nearby mighty four-thousanders? This trail, which takes you past the lakes Stellisee, Grindjisee, Grünsee, Moosjisee and Leisee, is not particularly difficult or strenuous. But its views are as spectacular as any in the Alps. At the first of them, Stellisee, you will be treated to one of those picture-postcard views with the Matterhorn reflected in the lake. At the last, Leisee (near Sunegga), you can even swim (if you like cold water, that is).

Other activities

With all this, we still haven’t talked about the via ferrata, the Gornerslucht, the abundant rock climbing options, the alpinism, the suspension bridge in Randa, glacier touring… there’s simply too much to sum up here. But whatever you do in and around Zermatt, you will do it under the watchful eye of Switzerland’s icon, the legendary Matterhorn.

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Text: Jurgen Groenwals

Photography: Jurgen Groenwals

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Graphic design: Koen Surmont, windwaait.be

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©Jurgen Groenwals & Lannoo Publishers, Tielt, 2023

D/2023/45/304 - NUR 483

ISBN: 978-94 014 9202 7

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