CONTENTS
Foreword 6
Introduction 8
THE REVIVALISTS 12
Acanthus Jewelry: Nichole McIver 14
AnaKatarina: Ana-Katarina Vinkler-Petrovic 18
Briony Raymond 20
Circa 1700: Susan Cohen 24
FoundRae: Beth Hutchens 28
Heavenly Vices: Samantha Jackson 32
Jenna Blake: Jenna Grosfeld 36
Jillian Abboud 38
Marlo Laz: Jesse Marlo Lazowski 40
Storrow: Jennifer Koche 44
The One I Love NYC: Mia Moross 46
THE TRAILBLAZERS 48
Anna Maccieri Rossi 50
Brooke Gregson 52
Erica Molinari 56
Linda Hoj: Linda Googe 58
Marie Mas: Marie Cabirou 60
Marla Aaron 62
THE MYSTICS 66
Alexandra Rosier 68
ARK Fine Jewelry: Ann Korman 72
Buddha Mama: Nancy & Dakota Badía 74
Celine Daoust 76
Emily Weld Collins 78
Karma El Khalil 80
Orly Marcel: Orly Eisbart 82
THE POP ARTISTS 88
Brent Neale: Brent Winston 90
Emily P. Wheeler 94
Nadine Aysoy 96
Retrouvaí: Kirsty Stone 98
Robinson Pelham: Vanessa Chilton, Zoe Benyon & Kate Pelham Burn 100
THE REBELS 102
Dru.: Thea Miller 104
Graziela: Graziela Kaufman 108
Harwell Godfrey: Lauren Harwell Godfrey 112
Marie Lichtenberg 116
Nancy Newberg 118
State Property: Lin Ruiyin 120
THE NEOCLASSICISTS 126
Jade Ruzzo 128
Lauren Rubinski 130
Lizzie Mandler 134
Walters Faith: Stephanie Walters Abramow & Mollie Faith Good 136
THE ROCK STARS 142
Berlinger: Michelle Berlinger 144
Eva Fehren: Eva Zuckerman 146
Grace Lee 150
Jade Trau 154
Maggi Simpkins 158
Ondyn: Tara Maria Famiglietti 162
Designer Biographies 164
Author Biography 173
Acknowledgments 174
Photo Credits 175
Ideas strike at the most unusual times, so I leave voice messages for myself or pull over when I am driving. I never want to lose the thought that could be the next collection concept.” “
Ibegan as a visual artist and then transitioned into the more academic area of art history. I taught, worked in a gallery, and worked as a project manager for a public artist. But I began to miss creating for myself and loved the idea of being my own boss. I had some ideas for the type of jewelry I would want to wear so I began to think about design as a career. Since I’m self-taught, I’ve learned different techniques on my own and in classes, starting with simple beading and wire wrapping to more traditional metalsmith techniques and unique applications. I think my aesthetic has always been informed by historical references and there are still designs in my sketchbooks from 10 years ago that I look back on and incorporate into my collections.
ACANTHUS JEWELRY NICHOLE McIVER
The pieces you never take off. I leave all my earrings in all the time, and I always wear my wedding set.
The one thing you can’t live without. Aside from my husband, I’d say creativity. I have been artistic since I was a kid; creating and making things brings me so much joy.
Favorite other artistic medium, and why? I started out as a two-dimensional artist, so I love drawing, painting and, more recently, papercutting.
A humorous or embarrassing story about being in the jewelry business. I’m a bit accident prone, so there have been times where saw-blades have gone all the way through my finger. I’ve even given myself a bald patch from my hair getting caught in my flex-shaft tool!
Describe your customer. They don’t follow trends or feel the need to collect major designer names and pieces. They buy what speaks to them. I think they probably love treasure hunting as much as me and they tend to be drawn to jewelry that is steeped in sentiment.
Mistakes you made when starting out. Over committing my time and not saying “No” enough.
Night Sky Cuff. Oxidized sterling silver, 24K yellow gold, white diamonds.
Night Skies Earrings. Oxidized sterling silver, 14K and 24K yellow gold, white diamonds.
Golden Gate Painted Door Pendant. 14K yellow gold, quartz, diamonds.
Igrew up surrounded by jewelry. My Argentinean father was a passionate collector of silver jewelry, and my mother was a collector of Victorian jewelry. They would bring me along on trips to antique fairs which fueled my passion. After training in Madrid in the fine arts and learning the techniques of marble, restoration of old paintings, and gilding, I returned to Paris and my first love. I joined the Cartier Haute Joaillerie in Paris, designing one-off pieces alongside Jacqueline Karachi, now creative director of Cartier Prestige. Then I went to Graff in London where I worked with a highprofile jewelry clientele. My experience led me to launch my brand in 2018.
We need jewelry that makes the harshness of every day gentler. My pieces evoke love, abundance, and undeniable playfulness for clients who are looking for a little bit of magic and joy to color their souls.” “
ALEXANDRA ROSIER
Eternal Love Hands Necklace. 18K yellow gold, 6.70ct black opals, 0.58ct sapphires, 0.08ct tsavorites, 0.50ct diamonds.
Big Soft Ring. With the colors of the rainbow to spread joy, this flexible ring has a sensuality in its movements. 18K yellow gold, 10.31ct fancy sapphires, 1.95ct blue topazes, 1.72ct tsavorites.
What is your process?
I am inspired while drawing, and also by where I am at a precise moment in my life. I am influenced by my travels, spirituality, and love. I buy all my precious stones based on a visceral and emotional reaction to them. From conception to the finished pieces, it is a freeflowing process that allows me the freedom to create some of my bestselling designs.
Is there a magic power to jewelry?
Of course. Many of my creations are steeped in spirituality and symbolism and I believe in a stone’s influence on the body and mind.
The pieces you never take off.
I never take off my Rainbow Soft Rings as they are energy symbols.
Which of your pieces are always in rotation?
The Serenity Necklace, for feeling strong and courageous, and the Vajra Necklace which protects me and helps me to get past obstacles.
Fish Necklaces. With hand-engraved, articulated, enameled eyes. 18K yellow gold, fancy sapphires, amethysts, blue topazes, tsavorites, rubies, diamonds.
My senior year at Johns Hopkins I was going for interviews for finance jobs, which would have been an awful career choice for me, but that’s another story. I was in a terrible interview with the head of HR at Morgan Stanley. Finally, we both realized this was going nowhere and started chatting about other things and she asked me who had made my necklace. I said, “Oh, I did,” and she said, “Why are you sitting here? That’s what you should be doing.” I have worked professionally as a designer since 2007. I started out in jewelry product development and specialized later in fine jewelry after completing a jewelry design degree at FIT. My own company was launched in 2017.
BRENT NEALE BRENT WINSTON
Your aesthetic.
A love for the colorful and bold, with a nod to the 1960s and ’70s counterculture. Although my pieces are often defined as whimsical, I prefer to think of them as playful with unexpected magical details that the wearer discovers again and again. I am also drawn to fairytales and subtle plays on different stories I grew up with—the familiar renewed with a sense of wonder and surprise. I like to see and wear my pieces before I send them out into the world.
The biggest influence in your jewelry career. My rendering teacher at FIT. His name was Maurice Galli and he was the head designer at Harry Winston for ages. He was the most exquisite designer.
Is there a magic power to jewelry?
Jewelry can change your mood, so if that’s not a magical power then I’m not sure what is!
How should a woman wear your jewelry? I really love a layered look in general. Stacking with rings and pendants at different lengths. Stack of bracelets. Enjoy all of it!
The pieces you never take off. My engagement ring and generally one of my mushroom designs.
When I’m creating a new collection, it often has specific inspirations and muses. I usually start with a wow piece and then flesh things out from there.” “
Large Magic Mushroom Pendant—Libra Zodiac. 18K yellow gold, carved chrysoprase, opal cabochon insets.
Mixed Shape Sapphire Pillow Necklace. 18K yellow gold, 44.39cts mixed color sapphires.
Medium Gold Shell Earrings. 18K yellow gold, blue sapphires, diamonds, pearls.
One-of-a-Kind Wildflower Rings. 18K yellow gold, mixed gemstones.
My first career was in education. I see my jewelry as an extension of the mentoring I received as a child and young adult and the mentoring I provided in my former career. Over 20 years, I worked as a teacher, consultant, tutor, and creator of educational programs, including a nonprofit I co-founded. There are many parallels between teaching and design, especially in my collection. My ultimate goal, via my jewelry, is to be a cheerleader (of sorts) for people as they navigate the joy and the pain of life. Perhaps becoming a designer was a natural progression, since I had always dabbled in design, but I see it more as a choose-yourown-adventure sort of transition. And once I had chosen, I was all in.
DRU. THEA MILLER
“
My jewelry is designed to uplift, inspire, empower, humor, encourage, and embolden other women, just like my mentors did for me, and just like I still need for myself.”
What is your design process?
My ideas come in waves. Sometimes it will start with a message I want to engrave; other times the piece will come first and then I will sit with it—touch it, hold it, live with it for a day or two—and then choose its message. Sometimes I hit the nail on the head; sometimes I miss it by a mile. For the pieces without messaging, the ideas start with shapes and move on from there.
Your aesthetic.
Modern and edgy, with a twist of humor.
What is your favorite piece in your collection?
The Phoenix is the most personally meaningful piece in my collection. The back of both the ring and the necklace is engraved with, “First, you must burn.” It’s all about survival, resilience, and building yourself back up after hard-hitting experiences.
Diamond Claw Earrings. 14K yellow gold, 0.43ct diamonds.
From left to right: Diamond and Black Enamel Not Your Bitch Ring; Black and White Diamond Hold On Tightly, Let Go Lightly Ring; Black Diamond and Black Enamel RESPECT Cigar Band; Black/White Diamond and Black/White Enamel Hold On Tightly, Let Go Lightly Ring.
Describe your customer.
My customer has a strong sense of self. Sometimes she might be struggling or seeking meaning, but there is no doubt she will emerge victorious, just like the phoenix. My customer also has a sense of humor and doesn’t take herself too seriously. She loves hard and laughs even harder.
Your biggest influence in your life and jewelry career.
The many mentors who have believed in me when I didn’t see my worth, inspired me when I couldn’t see the future, picked me up when I lost my balance, and carried me when I couldn’t find my feet. It is these people who influenced my work with children, and I hear them in my head during the design process.
A designer or renowned house from the past that you admire.
Alexander McQueen. He did not just design clothes, he told stories through his collections, and oftentimes those stories were of pain and loss and transformation. He was able to make what was dark and almost eerie into something beautiful and rapturous.
From top to bottom: Diamond Claw Ring; Solid Claw Ring; Black Diamond Claw Ring.
Spiked Carpe Diem Watch. 30mm, 14K yellow gold, diamonds, tsavorite.
IJADE RUZZO
worked in fashion marketing in the media world for most of my career—name a magazine at Condé Nast and I probably worked there! My last office gig was at Snapchat working as a creative partner with luxury brands. After having my daughter Gloria in 2019, I took a break from work and realized I really didn’t love what I’d been doing. Over time I started to dip my toe into making custom pieces of fine jewelry, more as a hobby, until I worked up the confidence (and was lovingly nudged) to make a real go of it. I’m so glad I did!
Your aesthetic.
Bold, laid-back, minimalistic.
How have you evolved?
I pushed myself out of my comfort zone and now design much more with gemstones. I have grown to love a wide spectrum of colored stones.
Describe your customer.
The Jade Ruzzo girl is effortlessly cool. She’s genuine, loyal, fun, and quietly confident. She has a killer sense of style that is uniquely her own—void of labels and trends.
What was one mistake you made early on?
I’m still a bit of a brand builder at heart. When creating my business cards, I went for “quiet luxury” at its most extreme. The result was absolutely beautiful but comically void of information, and illegible without a magnifying glass. To top it off, I preemptively ordered a lifetime supply.
Your biggest influence in your life and jewelry career.
My daughter Gloria and my late father Victor. Sadly, they never got to meet each other but both are the coolest, most fun, and uniquely “themselves” people I’ve ever met.
Is there a magic power to jewelry?
Aside from the metaphysical characteristics of so many stones, jewelry can have the power to transform your mood and arm you with confidence on days when it feels impossible to muster up.
“The integrity and versatility of a design is what matters most to me—it has to be something you will find yourself slipping on time and time again instead of waiting for the ‘right reason’ to wear it.”
Chime Ear Climber. 18K yellow gold, 9.77ct malaya garnets.
Markie Ring. 18K yellow gold, 1.80ct antique diamond.
An unfulfilled desire?
Growing up, I always secretly wanted to be a pop star/singer. I have zero of the talents necessary to back this up and am rather shy and guarded but can’t help but wonder, what if…
The piece you never take off.
My large Vic Ring (named after my father) in shades of green tourmaline. It’s a morning ritual for me to slip it on before getting my day started.
A secret about you. I love Disney World.
Favorite heirloom or piece handed down to you.
My father gave me and my twin sister this sterling cuff with big turquoise stones that was handmade for him by one of his fellow musician friends in the ’70s. We share it and both cherish it, and it was the source of inspiration for my signature Vic collection.
The most sentimental piece you own, and why?
A nephrite jade locket that has images of my parents on one side and Gloria on the other. The pictures I chose to live inside the locket aren’t typical. They are a little kooky and fun and capture each of them exactly as themselves.
Tennessee Ring. 18K yellow gold, 0.32ct diamonds.
Large Cymbal Pendant. 18K yellow gold, 0.86ct old mine-cut diamond, Brazilian rosewood, gold woven chain.
I’ve been designing and selling jewelry since I was 14. It’s the only thing I’ve ever done professionally. When I was 13, I broke my back and was bedridden for quite some time. After about six months, I was beading necklaces and earrings and selling them to local boutiques in Los Angeles. When I attended Dartmouth College, we had a non-academic metalsmithing studio that I absolutely lived in. I learned every single part of the manufacturing process there, from how to make molds, to casting, wax carving, and then CAD. Experiencing each part of the creative process informs my work today.
“
I am drawn to the permanence of jewelry—the fact that these tiny, precious, wearable pieces of art will last generations. And with every person, they take on unique significance and represent sentimental or life-changing moments.”
BERLINGER MICHELLE BERLINGER
After graduating in 2013, I started Berlinger, originally as a men’s engagement-ring company, designing Art Deco-inspired men’s diamond rings. It slowly evolved into the company it is today, focusing on women’s engagement rings which evoke a mosaic-like effect with different patterns created by using a variety of fancy and antique-cut diamonds in one design.
What is your design process?
To find inspiration, I go through thousands of images of antique pins, thimbles, anything made in metal. I’ll pour through books and old photos I’ve taken of patterns on buildings and those I’ve come across throughout my travels, then take tiny snippets from each of these elements to begin a design. Sometimes the basis for the design of a ring will simply come from seeing the corner of an ornate piece of architecture, sometimes from a brass doorbell, sometimes from a pin. Then I will sketch the piece in photoshop and meet with my jeweler and CAD designer, and we’ll talk through the piece.
What is your favorite piece in your collection?
The Luxe Confetti Diamond Mosaic Ring. This is truly the essence of my unexpected take on a classic and everlasting style.
Mini Kite Shape Diamond Mosaic Ring. Featuring tapered baguette and round brilliant-cut diamonds in a milgrainaccented diamond shape
Violet Sapphire Deco Halo Ring. Featuring an unheated violet emeraldcut sapphire accented with an Art Deco-inspired halo of baguette, pear, and round brilliant-cut diamonds.
Round Brilliant Cut Halo Diamond Mosaic Ring. Featuring tapered baguette and round diamonds micro-pavé set and accented with milgrain.
Luxe Confetti Ring. Featuring alternating baguette diamonds sprinkled with round brilliant cuts for the perfect classic-meetsfunky diamond band.
Oval Ballerina Diamond Mosaic Ring. Featuring a feminine mix of tapered baguette and round brilliant-cut diamonds accented with milgrain.
Mistakes you made early on.
I’ve designed rings that are set too high and catch on sweaters, and pieces that were impossible to produce because the materials were too difficult to find or replicate. Since then, I’ve learned that the beauty of jewelry is also tied to wearability, form, and function, and should be effortless to put on and live in.
Is there a magic power to jewelry?
Absolutely. Often giving and receiving jewelry is about a shared experience, a remembrance. It evokes memories, emotions, and occasions. You can activate these powers every time you look at the piece while wearing or seeing it on the person for whom you purchased it. This type of power is specific to jewelry.
The piece you never take off.
My diamond tennis necklace. It has a slightly unexpected setting of three shared prongs, and alternating sizes. It is the perfect staple. If I’m underdressed or just feeling low, I think to myself, well at least I am wearing my tennis necklace.
The one thing you can’t live without. Coffee.
What other jewelry designers’ pieces do you wear?
Cathy Waterman. I have her LOVE ring and it’s something I wear all the time. Her jewelry makes you feel like you are in a fairytale. She’s got a signature style that I could spot from a mile away. Cathy is a true artist, and I love collecting her pieces.
Favorite heirloom or piece handed down to you.
My engagement ring. It was a gift to my mother from my father for her 40th birthday. It’s an original Art Deco setting in platinum with engraving and micro pavé. It features a three-carat Asscher-cut diamond. I’d been staring at this ring since I was a young child. It was the first piece I ever fell in love with and one of the reasons I wanted to design jewelry.
What was the first piece of jewelry you ever bought for yourself?
It was a stick pin that I found in an antique mart in rural Vermont. It was white and rose gold with a small diamond and was handengraved. I turned this into a pendant for myself and designed something similar for our website. It’s now our most popular necklace.
