A TASTE OF
STEFAN MAIWALD PHOTOS
TENTS
INTRODUCTION
FOREWORD 6
ROMAN CUISINE 8
ROME 10
14
TRASTEVERE
EGGS 16
L’ANTIDOTO 22
SEU PIZZA ILLUMINATI 28
INSIDER TIPS & GOOD TO KNOW 34
38 AROUND
THE VATICAN
ROMANÈ 40
PULEJO 46
BIANCA TRATTORIA 52
LA PERGOLA 58
INSIDER TIPS & GOOD TO KNOW 64
68
MONTI, ESQUILINO & SAN LORENZO
INEO 70
FORNO CONTI 76
IL MARATONETA 82
MAZZO 88
INSIDER TIPS & GOOD TO KNOW 94
98
HISTORIC CENTER
LA CIAMBELLA 100
CAMPOCORI 106
FRATELLI TRECCA 112
CIAO ALIMENTARI 118
RETROBOTTEGA 126
TULIPANE 132
ROSCIOLI SALUMERIA 138
INSIDER TIPS & GOOD TO KNOW 144
148
TREVI FOUNTAIN & TRIDENTE
DON PASQUALE 150
SAN BAYLON 156
LUMEN COCKTAILS & CUISINE 162
GIANO 168
INSIDER TIPS & GOOD TO KNOW 174
178 THE SOUTH: TESTACCIO & SAN GIOVANNI
DOGMA 180
PIATTO ROMANO 186
CHECCHINO DAL 1887 194
180 GR 200
SCIMA 206
SANTOPALATO 212
TRECCA 218
INSIDER TIPS & GOOD TO KNOW 224
226 SERVICE
CAFFÈ—A GREAT START TO A BUON GIORNO! 228
GOURMET SHOPPING 230
APERITIVI—THE BEST PLACES FOR A GLASS OF WINE IN THE EVENING 232
234 INDEX
240 IMPRINT
FORE WORD
BY STEFAN MAIWALD
What a metropolis! Rome is breathtaking and unique, eternal and young at the same time. What city has continuously shaped a huge part of world history for two and a half millennia—first politically, then religiously? What city is the capital of three countries at once? (Italy, Vatican City and—guess what?—the Order of Malta.) “Rome is the most amazing city in the universe,” said—not Marcus Aurelius, but Asterix. Here, every single street hides a sight that other cities would tear down whole neighborhoods for and build a golden fence around. Caput mundi , capital of the world: an honorary title Rome wears with pride.— Probably no other city has shaped the modern world in so many ways. Law, science, painting, politics, architecture, philosophy, poetry, medicine—its influence was immense. Roman buildings still fascinate today, and the Catholic Church, also largely an Italian creation, is heading into the third millennium. The calendar the world uses today to count its days and years is a Roman invention by Julius Caesar. The Roman Republic, with its sophisticated balance of power, became a model for today’s nations. Many political terms derived from Latin go back to what happened in Rome: republic, president, congress, senate, representation, judiciary, executive, legislative, candidate, plebiscite and much more.
Travelers in Rome are awestruck, and rightly so. Buildings like the Pantheon or the Colosseum would be hard to pull off even with modern technology. Catullus invented love poems, Gaius
Lucilius invented political satire, which Juvenal perfected. Ovid’s influence on art was immeasurable. The Roman legal system was so sophisticated that by the year 500, the collected regulations were half as long as the Bible. As early as Hadrian’s reign (117–138), even slaves got certain rights—although they were still slaves. And the principle that it’s better to let a guilty person go than to punish an innocent one, still valid today, was already around in the year 223.
Michelangelo created probably the most famous statue in the world with his “David” in Florence, but in Rome he made the most famous fresco in human history: the ceiling frescoes of the Sistine Chapel in St. Peter’s Basilica. Maria Montessori was the first woman allowed to study medicine in Rome (after Pope Leo XIII personally supported her) and revolutionized children’s education. The buildings coordinated from Rome—stretching from Scotland to Iraq—are possibly the biggest complex construction project in human history. Streets, palaces, fortifications, harbors, bridges, aqueducts still shape our cityscape today. Incidentally, even: Even in ancient Rome there were traffic jams and the first traffic reports. Residents in the environs were warned not to go to the capital of the empire on certain high holidays because of the expected crowds. The traffic is still thoroughly metropolitan. But because the city has grown over time, many great places are easy to reach on foot or by public transport.
Around the
VATICAN
At 0.44 square kilometers, it’s the smallest country in the world, with about 750 inhabitants, and is the only country with a birth rate of zero. And yet that tiny 0.44 square kilometer is so important that embassies from over 180 countries around it are dedicated solely to the Holy See—because the bigwigs in Rome wouldn’t like it if a foreign ambassador was responsible for both Italy and the Pope at the same time. Despite its small size, the Vatican is a global political arena: after all, the Pope is the spiritual leader of more than two billion Catholics worldwide. The political power of this office was impressively shown by the role of John Paul II during the first uprisings in Eastern Europe, especially in Poland; in 1989, the Polish Pope played a key role in shaking up old world orders. Around Vatican City, which—like the Trastevere district—sits on the west bank of the Tiber, you can eat and drink really well on any budget. That’s not just because of the proximity to church dignitaries and lots of embassies, but also thanks to the popular-
ity of the neighboring Prati district, which is considered both chic and down-to-earth.
St. Peter’s Basilica is the center of the Vatican and, at the same time, the center of Rome. One of the world’s most important sights, whose monumental size almost leaves visitors speechless in awe. Works of art such as Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel are without a doubt among the greatest creations humanity has ever produced.
And here’s a little anecdote to finish: Vatican City has the highest per capita wine consumption in the world. Not really surprising since there are no kids or teenagers, just gentlemen, mostly of a certain age; people there really appreciate a fine drop or two.
The statues on the Bridge of Angels have seen it all
A different side of—narrow, quiet alleys far from the big-city hustle and bustle
How it all started: the twins Romulus and Remus
The dome of St. Peter’s Basilica dominates the cityscape
POLLO ALLA CACCIATORA
HUNTER-STYLE CHICKEN
FOR 4 PEOPLE DIFFICULTY
1.7 fl oz (50 ml) olive oil
8 chicken thighs
8 chicken drumsticks (depending on size, halve if needed)
1 sprig rosemary
⅞ oz (25 g) salt
1⁄5 oz (5 g) freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE SAUCE
8 garlic cloves
1 bunch rosemary (approx. 4–5 sprigs)
1.7 fl oz (50 ml) white wine vinegar
34 fl oz (1 l) dry white wine
1.7 fl oz (50 ml) tomato purée (passata)
1
Heat olive oil in a large pot. Add the chicken pieces with the rosemary sprig, salt, and pepper to the pot and mix well so everything is evenly seasoned. Put the lid on and let the meat braise over low to medium heat for about 1 hour, turning the chicken pieces occasionally so they cook through and color all over.
2
While the meat is cooking, prepare the sauce: Put the peeled garlic cloves, rosemary, white wine vinegar, white wine, and tomato sauce in a blender and blend until smooth and homogeneous.
3
Once the chicken pieces are done cooking, remove the lid, turn up the heat, and pour the prepared sugo into the pot. Let it simmer for about 5 minutes on high heat until the alcohol from the wine has evaporated and the liquid has reduced slightly.
4
Now take the chicken pieces out of the pot; they should be nicely cooked and a little browned. Take a scrap of chicken skin and return it to the pot to give the sugo extra depth. Let it simmer for a short while again, then blend once more using a mixer or immersion blender until you get a creamy sauce.
5
To serve, place one drumstick and one thigh on pre-warmed plates and generously pour the hot sugo over them.
Far right – Besides delicacies, there are also LPs, books and movies
Right – Enrico
and
have created a real meeting place
Below – When the weather’s nice— which is most of the time—guests chat outside
FAVORITE SPOTS OF THE TWO BROTHERS
“We don’t have much free time, but when we do, we especially love going to Tulipane, Retrobottega, Fischio, or Faro.”
(r.)
Daniele
BEST BOTTEGA
W CIAO ALIMENTARI
CIAO ALIMENTARI
VICOLO DI SAN CELSO
8/INCROCIO VICOLO
DEL CURATO
00186 ROME
+39 379 173 2598
@ciao.roma
OPENING HOURS:
Tuesday to Sunday
5:30–10:00 PM
Closed on Mondays
What a fascinating—and at the same time wonderfully simple—place: a bottega in the best Roman tradition, but full of innovation. The brothers Enrico (36) and Daniele (35) have created a real refuge with their Ciao Alimentari: a bit of pizzeria, a bit of enoteca, a bit of mini-market for special products, from organic wines to beer from microbreweries, and even a stage for cultural events, music and exhibitions.
Located right in the historic center, the chaos of the city reliably stays outside this quiet corner. Since opening in 2022, the little shop has become a safe haven for many Romans in the middle of the often hectic city life—even though it’s only a few square meters and offers its guests just a handful of stools.
A quick lunch, an aperitivo in the evening, a live concert in the tiniest space—this bottega is a real surprise bag.
“When we started, we really had no clear idea what we actually wanted to do,” says Daniele. “We wanted to connect with people, build deep relationships with them— and just offer them everything we love.”
At the counter, you’ll find sausages, cold cuts, baked goods, and cheese. The pizza dough comes from Roscioli, the bresaola
from Brisval, and they get their sausages, bacon and ham from Morgante in Friuli. Some cheeses come from the Sensi dairy, while others—like stracco bianco, a firmer, softer stracchino, or the blue—come from Azienda Agricola Ammano. “We never stop exploring and are always trying to bring more into our little world.”
The brothers have a special fondness for the Mangalitza pig—a breed that looks more like sheep than your usual barn pigs. No wonder they’re often called “wool pigs” around here. They may not give wool, but they’ve left their hoofprint on the modern world: Jim Henson and Frank Oz, the creators of The Muppet Show, were inspired by the blonde mane of Mangalitza pigs when creating Miss Piggy. In the 1990s they were threatened with extinction, but today more and more chefs appreciate their fine meat.
PIZZA BIANCA CON MORTADELLA
WHITE PIZZA WITH MORTADELLA
FOR 1 PIZZA DIFFICULTY
1 portion pizza dough (approx. 6⅓–7 oz / 180–200 g)
2¾–3½ oz (80–100 g) mortadella (e.g. handmade, from Mangalitza pork)
1
Roll out the pizza dough into an oval or round flatbread and bake it on a hot baking stone or tray in a preheated oven at 250–280 °C/480–535°F for about 6–8 minutes, until the surface is golden brown and the crust is crispy.
2 Meanwhile, slice the mortadella into large, thin slices. As soon as the pizza comes out of the oven, top it immediately with the mortadella so its aroma can develop from the residual heat. Don’t bake the mortadella, so it stays tender and juicy.
3
Serve immediately. Simple, fragrant, and totally Roman.
DID YOU KNOW?
Pizza bianca—that is, pizza without tomato sauce—is a classic product of Roman bakery culture. It gives space for fine ingredients, whose flavors are enhanced by heat, but not overpowered. Especially popular: air-dried capocollo, creamy sheep’s cheese, and pickled vegetables from Lazio.
BASIC RECIPE
ROMAN PIZZA DOUGH (PIZZA ALLA ROMANA)
FOR 4 PIZZAS
À APPROX. 200 G DOUGH
1 lb 2 oz (500 g) wheat flour, Tipo 00 (or 14 oz / 400 g Tipo 00 + 3½ oz / 100 g fine semolina)
0.1 oz (3 g) fresh yeast or 0.04 oz (1 g) dry yeast
⅓ oz (10 g) fine salt
½ tbsp (15 ml) olive oil (optional, for added elasticity)
1
Put the flour in a bowl. Dissolve the yeast in 70 ml cold water. Add another 250 ml cold water to the flour and mix everything roughly. Only then add the salt and—if you want—the olive oil.
2
Knead the dough vigorously by hand for 10 minutes or with a stand mixer for 5 minutes, until it’s smooth, supple, and elastic.
3
Let it rest covered at room temperature for 1 hour. Then divide into 4 equal pieces and shape into dough balls. Let them rise again for at least 6 hours at room temperature or up to 48 hours in the fridge.
4
Before baking, let the dough balls return to room temperature for 1 hour, then roll them out thinly and evenly on a lightly floured surface.
5
Bake in the oven at 250–280 °C/480–535°F on a hot stone or tray for about 6–8 minutes, or in a wood or stone oven at 340–360 °C/645–680°F for about 2 minutes.
ROSCIOLI SALUMERIA
VIA DEI GIUBBONARI, 21 00186 ROME
+39 06 687 5287 salumeriaroscioli.com
OPENING HOURS:
Open daily from 12:30–4:00 PM and 7:00–11:30 PM
W ROSCIOLI SALUMERIA
THE GOOD LIFE, ALL IN ONE
MARIA ELENA’S
LITTLE
JOURNEY OF PLEASURE
“When I have a few hours off, I love going to SantoPalato, Orme, Le Levain, Piatto Romano or Lento.”
What a magical, inspiring, truly Roman place! But what exactly is Roscioli Salumeria?
Let’s hear from Maria Elena Roscioli herself—32 years old and, of course, a true Roman: “We’re a shop with a deli counter, packed with Italian and international cured meats and cheeses. Plus, there’s a selection of specialty products: pasta, olive oil, cookies, chocolates, sauces. We also have more than 2,000 wines and a huge range of bitters and spirits—including our own Roscioli label. And then there’s the restaurant area, where we serve dishes from the counter and from our kitchen.” You could say it’s the good life all in one place. Especially popular with our loyal neighbors: the Roman classics cacio e pepe, amatriciana, and carbonara. And when they’re made with love—like here—there’s hardly anything more delicious. So, Maria Elena, why should travelers come to Rome?
“Because here you can experience real, honest food—in every form. From street food to fine dining, through markets and little shops, you’ll discover the full variety of Roman cuisine.
A trip to Rome means: soaking up authentic flavors—and at the same time diving into the architectural wonders of a one-ofa-kind city.”
She loves her job, not just for the food, but also for the people. There’s always something happening in the city—and never a dull moment. “And it’s really satisfying that knowledgeable customers come to us because they know our products, and trust our taste and our work.”
Left – Up high, wines and liqueurs watch over the connoisseurs
Below – Gourmet delicacies at their best— even the most demanding palates are satisfied here
Bottom – Maria Elena, a true Roman, is the perfect host
POLPETTE ALLA ROMANA
ROMAN MEATBALLS WITH TOMATO SAUCE AND GRILLED POLENTA
FOR 4 PEOPLE
DIFFICULTY
FOR THE MEATBALLS
Zest of ½ organic lemon
3 slices white bread, crusts removed
13½ fl oz (400 ml) whole milk
7 oz (200 g) finely chopped
Mortadella Bologna
2 lb 3 oz (1 kg) ground beef (e.g., top round from Piedmontese cattle)
1 lb 2 oz (500 g) ground pork
1 lb 2 oz (500 g) ground veal
9¾ oz (280 g) finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano vacche rosse, aged 24 months
½ garlic clove, very finely chopped
2 whole eggs + 1 egg yolk
0.14 oz (4 g) freshly grated nutmeg
Salt, black pepper
FOR THE TOMATO SAUCE
2 lb 3 oz (1 kg) peeled tomatoes (San Marzano or similar quality)
4 shallots, roughly chopped
3⅓ fl oz (100 ml) extra virgin olive oil
salt
FOR THE SIDE
14 oz (400 g) cooked polenta (e.g., from the day before)
Grated Parmigiano Reggiano, for serving
1
Finely grate the lemon zest—only use the yellow part. Remove the crusts from the white bread slices, soak them in milk, and after a few minutes, squeeze them out well.
2
If you’re not using pre-ground meat: run the beef, pork, veal, and mortadella together with the garlic through a meat grinder, or chop the mortadella very finely on its own.
3
Put all the meat, the soaked bread, cheese, lemon zest, and garlic into a large bowl. Mix everything thoroughly with your hands until you get a uniform, compact mixture. Lightly beat the eggs and yolk, then add them with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Mix again until you have a smooth, slightly pink mixture.
4
For the sauce, mix the peeled tomatoes with the shallots, olive oil, and a pinch of salt while cold, then bring to a boil. Let it simmer gently for 20 minutes, then blend with a hand blender. Let it cook down for another 15 minutes until the sauce is creamy.
5
Meanwhile, with wet hands, shape meatballs of about 70 g each. Smooth the surface—the moisture is enough to seal the meatballs, no flour needed.
6
Place the finished meatballs straight into the hot tomato sauce and let them gently simmer on low heat for at least 45 minutes, without stirring too much.
7
Cut the polenta into 1 cm thick slices and grill them on both sides in a grill pan or contact grill until golden brown.
8
To serve, arrange the meatballs with sauce and slices of polenta, sprinkle with a littlegrated Parmesan, and serve hot.
Far left – For six generations, the Mariani family has stood for continuity and quality
Left – The place where Roman-style oxtail was invented
Below – Cozy dining room, friendly service, hearty specialties
VISITING THE GRAND SEIGNEUR
O CHECCHINO SINCE 1887
CHECCHINO DAL 1887
VIA DI MONTE
TESTACCIO 30
00153 ROME
+39 06 5743 816
checchino-dal-1887.com
OPENING HOURS:
Wednesday to Sunday
12:30–3:00 PM and 7:30–11:00 PM
Closed on Mondays and Tuesdays
One of Rome’s most traditional restaurants: Checchino has been around since 1887—birthplace of coda di vaccinara, the oxtail dish so loved in Rome. Great-grandmother Sora Ferminia even had her recipe protected. Today, chef Elio Mariani is at the stove in the sixth generation—and the 74-year-old grand seigneur of Roman cuisine isn’t even thinking about stopping.
“It just makes me so happy to see my guests happy. That’s the best thing that can happen to a chef or any host.” Born in Rome, Elio loves the variety of local cuisine: “In almost every neighborhood, there are always amazing discoveries.” His cooking is down-to-earth, hearty, and deeply rooted in the city: “You just can’t do without sheep’s cheese and guanciale,” he jokes. But Elio also has a real knack for dolci: His Torta Stracciatella is one of the city’s most famous desserts. Still, his culinary philosophy is best reflected in his oxtail dish. His
favorite dishes on the menu also include Rigatoni pajata (see recipe) and bucatini alla gricia—a special version of cacio e pepe pasta, or basically a carbonara without egg: with sheep’s cheese, lots of pepper, and roasted cubes of guanciale.
SWEET IN THE MORNING, SAVORY AT NIGHT
“I especially love going out in the morning— like to Pasticceria Barberini on Via Marmorata or to Caffé S. Eustachio at Piazza S. Eustachio. For an aperitivo, I prefer Caffé Doria in the palace of the same name on Via della Gatta. You can get a great pizza at Baccio ai Gradini on Via della Piramide Cestina, and in the evening I’m often at La Tradizione on Via Cipro.”
RIGATONI CON LA PAJATA
RIGATONI WITH VEAL IN TOMATO SAUCE AND PECORINO
FOR 4 PEOPLE
DIFFICULTY
2 lb 3 oz (1 kg) pajata, veal or lamb (cleaned small intestine, pre-ordered from butcher)
1 tbsp lard
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
8 cloves
5 fl oz (150 ml) dry white wine
4 lb 6½ oz (2 kg) peeled tomatoes (e.g., San Marzano)
1 tbsp tomato paste
14 oz (400 g) rigatoni or tortiglioni
14 oz (400 g) Pecorino Romano DOP (mild to semi-firm, not too salty)
Salt, black pepper
1
Cut the pajata into pieces about 20 cm long, gently remove the outer skin, and tie them into small rings or loops. In a large pan, heat the lard with the olive oil and sear the pajata rings over high heat. Keep turning them until they’re evenly browned.
2
Shortly before the end of searing, add onion, garlic, cloves, salt, and pepper, deglaze with white wine, and simmer with the lid on over high heat until the wine has completely evaporated. Stir regularly to prevent sticking.
3
Once the wine has reduced, add the peeled tomatoes, roughly chopped. Lower the heat, keep the pan covered, and simmer gently for about 30 minutes. Then stir in the tomato paste and simmer for another 20–30 minutes, until the pajata is tender and the sauce is creamy.
4
Meanwhile, cook the rigatoni in plenty of salted water until al dente, drain, and immediately return to the pot with some sauce and about half of the grated pecorino. Heat briefly while stirring constantly, until the sauce coats the pasta nicely.
5
To serve, put the pasta on a hot platter and arrange the braised pajata with plenty of sauce on top. Sprinkle with the remaining pecorino and serve right away.
DID YOU KNOW?
La pajata is a classic of Roman cucina povera —it’s the small intestine of a milk-fed calf, cooked together with its pre-digested stomach contents. The way it’s tied during cooking creates a creamy, almost cheesy filling inside. This dish was an icon of Roman Sunday lunches for decades.
A CULINARY JOURNEY THROUGH THE ETERNAL CITY
Rome isn't just a city full of history, it's also a paradise for foodies. A Taste of Rome reveals the culinary soul of the Eternal City in the Holy Year—from tiny trattorias hidden in back alleys to legendary cafés that have been around for generations. Alongside authentic recipes like cacio e pepe, carciofi alla romana, and pizza bianca, this Callwey book shares fascinating stories about Roman food culture and its roots. Detailed insider tips reveal where locals shop, eat, and enjoy their aperitivo. With stunning photos and a mix of travel guide and cookbook, this work invites you to experience Rome with all the senses—whether you're there in person or in your own kitchen.
UNIQUE
• Original recipes from Roman cuisine—from antipasti to dolci
• Secret foodie spots— restaurants, markets, and cafés off the beaten tourist path
• Exciting anecdotes— the history and traditions behind the dishes
