The 1 in 12 Club
Self-management, music and mayhem
Don’t be put off by the approach along a rather dingy cobbled back street with graffiti-covered walls: the legendary 1 in 12 club has been at the heart of Bradford’s music and social scene for decades. It was established in 1981 by members of Bradford’s Claimants Union, a group of anarchist-oriented individuals, whose aim was to generate and sustain a social scene that was accessible and affordable to all. The club takes its name from a government investigation into ben efits fraud, called The Raynor Report. This concluded that one in 12 claimants was actively defrauding the state at that time, hence the 1 in 12 Club.
It’s a private, not-for-profit club owned and run by its members, whether that be staffing the bar, booking the acts or helping with upkeep and maintenance of the old warehouse building. You don’t have to be a member to go, and you don’t have to be an anarchist to be a member, but you do have to agree to abide by the club’s principles: self-management, co-operation and mutual aid. It’s a safe, friendly and inclusive place, spread over three floors that accommodate a bar, gig / performance space, rehearsal rooms, pool, darts and table foot ball. There’s also a library floor, a vegetarian / vegan café, and a space where members can display their artistic works.
The club’s main claim to fame, though, is all the legendary bands that have played here, and will no doubt continue to do so. The 1 in 12 has helped shape the careers of many local bands and musicians including New Model Army, Southern Death Cult and Joolz. It hosted some of the best punk and alternative bands of the time, such as UK Subs, ChumbaWumba, Poison Girls and The Wedding Present. The old gig posters on the club’s website are a joy to read, and pause to reflect on whatever happened to bands with names such as Danbert Nobacon, Archbishop Kebab and Manfat.
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Address 21 23 Albion Street, BD1 2LY, www.facebook.com/1in12 | Getting there 10-minute uphill walk from Bradford Interchange; on-street parking is available nearby | Hours Thu–Sun 7pm late; check website | Tip A new, much larger, music venue is set to open in 2022, known as Bradford Live, sited in the refurbished Odeon Cinema just down the road from the 1 in 12 Club.
Aakash
Europe’s largest Indian restaurant
Bradford and the surrounding area is famous for its legendary choice of restaurants featuring cuisines from around the globe. You’re unlikely, though, to find another in such a striking building as the one that houses Aakash, which claims to be the largest Indian restaurant in Europe. Built in 1857 as the Providence Congrega tional Chapel of Cleckheaton, this Grade II-listed building has no less than six Corinthian stone columns to its grand frontage on the main A 638 Bradford Road, and stands out in its illumination on dark winter’s evenings. But the frontage is only a taster of what’s to come as you step inside.
Built over three floors, the original church organ remains on the second floor, and the penchant for columns continues as they rise around the edge of the dining area to support the second-floor horse shoe gallery. The ceiling is decorated with ornate plaster panels fea turing painted skyscapes, and is hung with huge chandeliers.
But it’s really all about the food. The menu is a five-course Indian buffet with over 50 dishes available every night, with the offerings changing frequently. There is whole slow cooked lamb available on Thursdays, and even a chocolate fountain on cer tain dates. Begin with the salad bar, complete with accompanying sauces, before moving on to the starters, which include all the traditional Indian favourites, such as samosas, pakora and pop padoms, but also pizzas and noodle dishes. The main dishes are varied, and include English and vegetarian options, accompanied by rice, naans, and chapatis.
If you’ve got room for more, available desserts include a range of ice creams, fruit and trifles, and gulab jaman for those with a sweet tooth. It’s a fixed price per head, with reductions for children, and under-4s eat free. Service is prompt and friendly, and various nonalcoholic drinks including mocktails are also available.
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Address Bradford Road, Cleckheaton, BD19 3PN | Getting there Bus 256 or 268 from Bradford Interchange; large car park on A 638 | Hours Daily 5.30 11pm | Tip Another listed building nearby is Cleckheaton Town Hall, whose 398-seat theatre has a great reputation for amateur drama and dance productions.
Airedale Heifer Pub
Cow pie, fish & chips – and blondes!
This pub in the village of East Riddlesden is named after the bovine beast that’s legendary in this part of the world as the one reputed to be the heaviest female cow ever exhibited. This claim, though, was disputed by the owners of the equally well known ‘Craven Heifer’, which in the early 19th century was toured throughout the UK as ‘the largest and fattest cow ever shown in England’, and is the inspiration for many pub names in Yorkshire.
The original Airedale Heifer measured 11 feet 10.5 inches from nose to rump, stood 5 feet 7.5 inches at the shoulder, and weighed a whopping 660 pounds. She was raised on the nearby East Ridd lesden Hall Estate, and is now immortalised in a specially commissioned life-size galvanised wirework statue that stands outside the pub named in her honour.
The pub is a large, family- and dog-friendly establishment, serving food and craft ales brewed on site. Owned by Bridgehouse Brewery, a separate Brew House is open to the public, standing alongside the extensive and very attractive beer garden. It’s a great place to while away an afternoon in the sunshine. But even if the weather’s inclem ent you can take yourself into the Holy Cow shed, a covered area with plenty of seating for larger groups, or one of the other covered areas, some complete with comfy leather sofas.
Go indoors and the décor is traditional and inviting, with an extensive menu that includes children’s items, a vegan / vegetarian section, supplemented by a daily specials board. Continuing the cat tle connection, there’s Holy Cow Pie and Holy Cow Beer, described as ‘sweet and fruity, balanced with a warm hoppy finish’. Other sug gested food and drink pairings include Perfect Plum Porter with smoked ribs, Tequila Blonde with chicken giro wrap, or the one that could be mistaken for the title of a Yorkshire work of art – Blonde with fish and chips.
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Address Bradford Road, Riddlesden, Keighley, BD20 5LY, www.airedaleheifer.co.uk | Getting there Bus 662 from Bradford Interchange; by car via the B 6265; ample car parking | Hours Mon Thu noon 10pm, Fri & Sat noon 11pm, Sun noon 7pm; booking advisable if dining | Tip The 17th-century National Trust property East Riddlesden Hall, where the Airedale heifer was raised, is just down the road, with large formal and wilderness gardens.
Alyonka & Aryana
Specialist food shop
Arriving in Bradford many years ago from Afghanistan, John longed for the Russian food of his childhood that was so difficult to find in the UK. The solution? Open West Yorkshire’s first (and probably finest) Russian food store. Established in 2005, Alyonka & Aryana is a bright and colourful mini market on Barry Street, named after his wife and daughter, respectively. You can’t miss it, with its sunshine yel low frontage and giant Russian doll murals. It’s brightly lit, squeaky clean, and full of the most amazing range of food from Russia, Latvia, Ukraine, Armenia and Kazakhstan – basically all the countries of the former Soviet Union, plus a few more for good measure.
Known locally as ‘The Russian Shop’, the range of products has grown immensely over the years, and now includes a delicatessen counter piled high with cooked meats, fish and sausage, fresh carp, golden chanterelle mushrooms, and much more. All products are firm favourites with customers, who travel from all over Yorkshire to shop at this wonderful emporium.
The shop stocks a wide range of beers, wines and spirits, with names that may sound strange to Western ears, but look wonder ful and go down a treat, whatever your heritage. Ukrainian and Lithuanian vodkas come with the highest recommendation, with Georgian and Moldovan wines also ranking high in the alcoholom eter taste ratings. There are also soft drinks, including the popular Kvass, made from fermented rye bread. The shelves are mesmeris ing, with rows of jars full of vibrant produce, such as preserved fish, pickles and soups; the ethos seems to be have as much choice as possible. Continuing that theme, there are over 50 types of bread, ranging from crusty white to the darkest, sumptuous-looking rye varieties, and a freezer section stocked with traditional sweet or savoury dumplings. And don’t leave without some delicious choc olates from Riga!
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Address 20 Barry Street, BD1 2AW | Getting there Bus 617, 618, 620 or 621 stop outside; 10-minute uphill walk from Bradford Interchange; by car, on-street parking is available nearby | Hours Mon Sat 9am 8pm, Sun 10am 6pm | Tip Nearby Bradford’s Oastler Centre, just across from the top of Barry Street, has other food outlets, including Solly’s fruit and veg, Spice World, a number of traditional butchers and fishmongers, and Michael’s Tropical Foods.
Apperley Bridge Marina
Messing about in boats
Originally a boat yard, Apperley Bridge Marina is now part of the prestigious Waterfront Mews development, and sits – or should that be floats? – alongside The Leeds and Liverpool Canal – the longest in Britain built as a single waterway. Used to transport coal and other cargoes, the canal and its vessels remained a viable alternative to the railways throughout the 19th century, after which time many of the narrow boats and barges were converted into homes, for both permanent and holiday use. The marina is now home to over 40 of these marvellous narrow boats, and still serves as a chandlery, supplying diesel, coal and gas to passing craft. It’s a slower pace of life, with the power to rejuvenate and revive the weary soul, which perhaps explains why visitors from around the world choose to traverse these waterways in this stunning corner of Britain.
Owning a boat isn’t necessary to visit, however: you can hire your own! Mr Toad is a wonderful little self-drive canal boat that can be hired for full or half days. If you prefer to be skippered, then you can have afternoon tea on board whilst being chaperoned along this pretty waterway, waving regally to the ducks and swans as you glide by, surrounded by a feast of sandwiches, savouries and cakes.
Speaking of cakes, you must visit the Marina View Coffee shop, a modern addition to the chandlery building. A bright and cheerful space, there is a colourful ‘Boaty McBoatface’ soft play area for the children, a comfy mezzanine level for the grown-ups, and an out door seating area, all with views across the marina and canal. And it just gets better – the shop incorporates Choctoria’s, supplying won derful handmade chocolates, some with a distinctly boozy theme. Family-owned and -run, they look after both the landlubbers and the canal savvy, championing Yorkshire produce and offering freshly made foods and drinks.
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Address Waterfront Mews, Off Tenterfields, BD10 0UR | Getting there Bus A 2 F lyer from Bradford Interchange; by car, off the A 658 Harrogate Road | Hours Marina always open to view; coffee shop Fri Mon 10am 4pm | Tip It’s a great spot to start a walk along the canal – if you head towards Bradford you’ll cross the Millman Swing Bridge, and can then continue to Dobson Locks; towards Leeds, you’ll pass the site of the famous Hammonds Sauce Factory, now apartments.
Baildon Moor
With Rita, Sue and Bob too
With sweeping vistas towards its more famous neighbour at Ilkley, Baildon Moor is one of the most popular and well-used areas of upland moorlands in the country. Despite this, you’ll quickly find yourself far from the madding crowd, with the wind in your hair and a spring in your step. A designated urban common, with public rights of way for ‘air and exercise’, it incorporates a golf course and numer ous tracks and trails for walkers, cyclists and equestrians.
The moor was the location for scenes in the 1987 film Rita, Sue and Bob Too – the story of the salacious exploits of two teenage girls from Bradford’s Buttershaw Estate and a married man from Baildon. Based on two plays written by Buttershaw resident Andrea Dunbar when she was still in her teens, the film deals with issues of groom ing and domestic violence in an uncompromising and unflinching way, but without passing judgement. Billed as a comedy, its strap line is ‘Thatcher’s Britain with its knickers down’. Partly autobiographi cal and partly based on a conversation heard in the toilets of a local market, the film won critical acclaim for its gritty portrayal of life on a run-down council estate. Its initial showing at a Bradford cinema attracted the crowds, but left some of the estate’s residents less than impressed.
Dunbar’s play The Arbor, written when she was 15, debuted at The Royal Theatre London, making her the youngest playwright to feature there. Her struggles with the alien world she then found herself in are detailed in the book Black Teeth and a Brilliant Smile by Adelle Stripe, with the title taken from a quote about Dunbar by a journalist. Her life was short and troubled – she died of a brain haemorrhage in the local pub at the age of just 29 – but she is remembered as a talented writer, funny and unsentimental, who gave young women like her self a voice. A blue plaque now adorns the house on the Buttershaw Estate where she lived, in recognition of her ground breaking work.
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Address Bingley Road, Baildon, BD17 5LG, www.baildonmoor.org | Getting there Bus 662 from Sunbridge Road Bradford; by car, there are car parks on Hawksworth Road and Bingley Road | Hours Always open | Tip On August bank holiday weekend, Baildon plays host to hundreds of Harley Davidson motorcycles and their owners, an annual charity event.
Beckfoot Bridge and Ford
Who’s that trip-trapping over my bridge?
Just a short walk from the centre of Bingley, this beautiful pack horse bridge spans Harden Beck, and is known as both Packhorse Bridge and Beckfoot Bridge. The original wooden bridge on the site was replaced in 1723 by the current stone version, built by two local masons for the sum of just £10, and that included the cost of seven years’ worth of maintenance! With a single arch, the bridge spans 15 metres, and is topped with wooden railings. It stands beneath mature trees, with the shallow ford alongside, forming a timeless scene that is chocolate box pretty.
Approached from the single track Beckfoot Lane, you can drive across the ford alongside the bridge, but by far the best way to appre ciate the bridge is by crossing it on foot, single file, as would have been the case in years gone by. If you should happen to have a pack horse with you for an authentic touch, so much the better, though the animal may struggle with the narrow stiles on the well established mini diversion. Also the original pedestrian route to one side of the bridge now has a large tree growing on it!
It’s a peaceful place, away from busy main roads, and a popular spot for artists and photographers seeking to capture the essence of the place. Lots of images are available online, both current and historical. The adjoining farmhouse, Beckfoot Farm, has a date stone of 1617, with the corner lanterns on the property denot ing that it was once owned by The Knights of St. John. Be aware though, that although this connection may be interesting, this is now a private residence, so no peering in through the windows!
Do stop awhile on the bridge though, and listen to the water gen tly tumbling over the cobbles, before continuing your walk either towards Bingley, over the considerably less-attractive metal bridge and through Myrtle Park, or on towards St Ives Country Estate in the opposite direction.
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Address Beckfoot Lane, Bingley, BD16 1AR | Getting there Multiple buses and trains from Bradford to Bingley, then a 10-minute walk through Myrtle Park | Hours Always accessible | Tip Bingley Farmers Market is held in the Town Square on the first Saturday of every month.
Bierley Woods
Time to stand beneath the boughs
The Japanese have a phrase – ‘shinrin yoku’ – which roughly translates as ‘forest bathing’, meaning to slow down and appreciate time with nature. Bierley woods, a small oasis sandwiched between industrial and housing estates, is the perfect place to practice this.
The woods were originally the 18th-century botanical gardens of Bierley Hall, home of botanist Richard Richardson, and the site of the first glass house in Britain. The land sloped down into a valley with a stream running through it, which the family formed into three large ponds, joined by cascading waterfalls. These ponds are now central to the woods and the home of a variety of spe cies and sizes of fish – great news for the local herons and angling club. At the beginning of the first pond, there’s a stone grotto which, although now sealed, is still visible. Beyond the grotto are a number of large stones which, at first glance, appear to have been deposited there naturally, but on closer inspection bear the marks of transportation. It’s believed that these were intended to form a druid-style stone circle.
Although the hall was demolished in the late 1960s, you can still see stone steps and small walls alongside the picnic area close to the entrance at the top of the woods. The area was left to re-wild and flourish, but has paths throughout, many of which are accessible for pushchairs and wheelchair users.
Children will love spotting the wildlife including squirrels, rab bits and fish. Small flocks of Canada geese visit each year to raise their families, competing for space with the mallards and moorhens. You will undoubtedly hear the woodpeckers, though spotting them is tricky, but you may catch a flash of blue as kingfishers whizz by. If you visit in May, the woods are carpeted in bluebells, and the smell is almost intoxicating. So give forest bathing a go, slow down, and appreciate all that nature has to offer here. It’s truly life affirming.
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Bierley
car,
there
terminus;
See if
can find the
the
path,
and turning to mirror the
Address
Lane / Rockhill Lane, BD4 6FB | Getting
Bus 621 to
by
there’s a small car park on Rockhill Lane | Hours Always open | Tip
you
dancing trees, a group of gnarly oaks on
top
twisting
others’ shapes.
Black Dyke Mills
‘Gathering people together, for fun’
Bring a hat and scarf, this is Queensbury, one of the highest parishes in England. At 1,100 feet above sea level it can snow at almost any time of year. But whilst the weather may be unpredictable, the wel come will always be warm at this unique and quirky music venue in the mighty Black Dyke Mills.
The mill was built in 1835, to bring together hundreds of weav ers previously labouring on hand looms in their cottages – working from home in its earliest incarnation! Nowadays, the noisy machines have given way to a much more melodic hum, when a diverse range of acts perform in The Shed Mill, a roomy, comfortable perfor mance space with sofas and cabaret-style seating. Tickets are very reasonably priced, with events most weekends. The area is comple mented by space alongside for exhibitions, events and education, and is community-focused and run entirely by volunteers. Other businesses that call the huge mill home include a boxing gym, a cycle shop, a music school and Mpika, a charity shop raising funds for a village in Zambia.
In The Shed Mill, the vaulted ceilings, cast iron pillars and York shire stone-flagged floors remain, but this is no longer a dark and dusty place to be. There’s art on the walls, twinkling fairy lights on the ceiling, and cosy rugs on the seating. Antique curved tables from the local council chambers form the pop-up bar, with a selection of real ales, craft lagers, wine, and a fine range of gins. The café serves home-made food, cakes and hot drinks.
The mix of music is eclectic, and whilst they champion local acts, they also play host to international artists, many of whom return to perform again. Bradford lass Kiki Dee, who duetted with Elton John on his first UK number one single ‘Don’t Go Breaking My Heart’ has performed sell-out shows here, alongside lesser-known artists who have paused at the mill on their musical journey.
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Address Black Dyke Mills, Brighouse Road, Queensbury, BD13 1QA, www.blackdykemills.org | Getting there Bus 610 from Bradford Interchange | Hours See website for current information on visiting | Tip The rich musical heritage of the area is further celebrated at The Heritage Centre of the Black Dyke Band, home of the worldrenowned, award-winning brass band, just around the corner from the mill.
The Black Rat
Bradford’s smallest pub
Landlady Alyson grew up in the area, and remembers this place as both a greengrocer’s shop and then a florist, but never imagined that she and husband Peter would eventually run the place. Having worked as both a midwife and a teacher (she still treads the boards as an actress in her spare time) she felt it was time for a change, and in August 2020 they took over the pub from previous land lord Colin. Named The Black Rat after Colin’s daughter’s favourite cuddly toy, you may be relieved to know that the only rats in evi dence are the painted ones on the wall behind the bar. Perhaps it should be called The Black Crow, however, after its regular visitor, Russell, the local crow, who regularly sneaks in and helps himself to beer mats. It’s rumoured that the other crow he is sometimes spotted with is his girlfriend, Sheryl, but his relationship status remains unconfirmed.
The interior of this micro pub is cosy, quirky and comfortable, with wooden panelling and rustic tables. It warrants an entry in the 2022 CAMRA good beer guide, and the names of the tipples range from Virtuous on the one hand to Old Legover on the other. Com plementing the range of beers and stouts are ciders, gins and wine, and there are often pies and sandwiches provided free of charge for customers at weekends. There is seating for up to 15 people, plus standing room, and outside tables and chairs boost capacity in the warmer months. It’s a super-friendly little spot, one of four pubs in Thackley, and Alyson often entreats customers to support the other bars in the area, reminding them that ‘a pub is for life, not just for Christmas’.
The Black Rat has a loyal clientele, and one senior gentleman even has an antique framed photograph of one of his forefathers displayed proudly on the wall – his opening line to visitors new to the bar is ‘Let me introduce you to my Granddad…’.
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Address 530 Leeds Road, Thackley, BD10 8JH, www.theblackratthackley.co.uk | Getting there Bus 612 or 613 from Bradford Market Street; by car via the A 657 L eeds Road | Hours Mon 3 7pm, Wed & Thu 3 9pm, Fri & Sat 3 11pm, Sun 2 8pm | Tip The Daisy Bar Kitchen is a Mediterranean-style restaurant a few doors along the road that gets glowing reviews from pub regulars (www.daisybarkitchen.co.uk).
A big thank you to all the people who have shared their time and enthusiasm to help with this book, and to the legions of volunteers who run many of these places and organisations.
Cath Muldowney has lived in Bradford for most of her life, going to school and raising a family there. Having worked in Local Gov ernment for many years, she escaped to become an antique dealer, specialising in unusual and bizarre items. Her photography began with landscape and nature shots, but she quickly developed a passion for social documentary images, portraying the urban landscape and the lives of the people she meets there. She loves to travel, but also always loves to come home to Bradford.
