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THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS ♦ FALL/WINTER 2012 ♦ FASHION ISLAND, NEWPORT BEACH, CA

Glamorous

GOLD

Trends from the Runway Designer Q&A Special Bridal Section


©2012 CHANEL®, Inc. J 12®

Watch in white high-tech ceramic set with 54 diamonds (~1.4 carat). Self-winding mechanical movement. 42-hour power reserve. Water-resistant to 50 meters.


FALL/WINTER 2012

FEATURES 6

On the Web

10 Welcome Letter 12 Traditional Jewelers Events 14 Accent Advisor 16 Red Carpet: Standout Style 20 Watch Report 22 Speed: The Thrill of Victory

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24 Timepieces: Baume & Mercier 26 Designer: Temple St. Clair 28 Traditional Jewelers Runway Trends 34 Golden Charm 40 Trends: Roaring Twenties Redux 42 Profile: Forevermark 56 Designer Profile: Aaron Basha 58 Interiors: Heavy Metals 62 Travel: It's About Time 64 Perfect Gems 66 Crossword

BRIDAL SECTION 44 The Invitations: Set the Tone 46 The Details: Something Even Newer 48 The Traditions: Worldwide Weddings 52 The Rings: New and Non-Traditional 54 The Stories: Wedding Day Magic

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THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS ♦ FALL/WINTER 2012 ♦ FASHION ISLAND, NEWPORT BEACH, CA

Glamorous

GOLD

Trends from the Runway Designer Q&A Special Bridal Section

4

ON THE COVER

Model Kelly Hughes (NEXT Management) wears TRADITIONAL JEWELERS COLLECTION oval hoop earrings and overlapping ring featuring pavé diamonds set in 18K yellow gold, TRADITIONAL JEWELERS COLLECTION woven necklace and bangle bracelet featuring pavé diamonds set in 18K yellow gold, and CARTIER Tank Anglaise in 18K yellow gold featuring pavé diamonds on the side. Dress by Nha Khanh. Photography by Edwin Santa. Hair by Joe Steven. Makeup by Eliut Tarin. Nails by Abigail Alcala. Styled by Carla Loo. Photographer Assistant Marlon Pacheco.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MILTON H GREENE ©2012 JOSHUA GREENE ARCHIVEIMAGES.COM; OSCAR GENERALE OSCARGENERALEPRODUCTIONS.COM

60 Food: First-Generation Fame


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T RA DI T I O N A L JE WE L E RS .CO M FA S H I O N I S L A N D

BRENT SEYLER SENIOR SALES MANAGER

203 NEWPORT CENTER DRIVE

STEVE MONDS SALES MANAGER

NEWPORT BEACH, CA ( 9 4 9 ) 721- 9 010

L U L A H A L FAC R E COMMUNITY AMBASSADOR

HOURS:

MICHAEL POLLAK CEO

M O N - F R I : 10 : 0 0 A M - 8 : 0 0 P M S AT : 1 0 : 0 0 A M - 7 : 0 0 P M

SHEREEN POLLAK PRESIDENT

S U N : 11 : 0 0 A M - 6 : 0 0 P M

DA M O N G R O SS COO JENNIFER FERKENHOFF DIRECTOR OF MARKETING M O L LY W O J C I K DIRECTOR OF INTERACTIVE MARKETING

PUBLISHED BY THE BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PROJECT MANAGER LISA MONTEMORRA

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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R HANS GSCHLIESSER

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DESIGNERS CYNTHIA LUCERO JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI Prices are subject to change without notice and may vary depending on size, quality and availability. Copyright 2012. Accent® is published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212-6864412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; All Rights Reserved. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers’ claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 10, Issue2. Accent® is a trademark of Business Journals, Inc. registered in the U.S. Patent and Trademark office. Printed In The U.S.A.

Necklace featuring 89.45ct green tourmaline and 4.13ct diamonds. Price available upon request.

8


WELCOME

Dear Friends,

A

s we’re fast approaching another holiday season, we look back at 33 years in Newport Beach for Traditional Jewelers and the Halfacre family. It’s hard to believe that only five short years ago, our beloved leader, Marion Halfacre, passed away so suddenly. The community support for Traditional Jewelers and the Halfacre family during these years has been tremendous, and we thank you so very much. Traditional Jewelers has continued to offer personable, professional service and represent the top jewelry and watch brands in the world. It is our pledge to all of you to continue that experience for years to come. Over the past year, we have been in discussions with another family-owned business from Denver, Colorado, Hyde Park Jewelers, and as these discussions were concluded on July 31, 2012, Traditional Jewelers is now under the ownership of Michael and Shereen Pollak. The Pollaks have stores in Denver, Las Vegas, Phoenix, and now at Fashion Island in Newport Beach. Traditional Jewelers will continue to uphold our high standards of customer service and of the collections we represent. We believe the joining of strengths of these two well-established, community-focused companies will only serve to make your experience at Traditional Jewelers even better. Stop in to see what’s new at our jewelry event, scheduled for December 7th and 8th, as our many brands highlight their designs for fall and winter just in time for your holiday gift giving. We look forward to seeing you soon. Cheers! Lula F. Halfacre

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design a n d technology. luminor 1950 8 days gmt - 4 4mm


TRADITIONAL JEWELERS EVENTS

Raffle chairman Danni Good with her husband Dan, and president of the Cystic Fibrosis Guild, Sue Hook, with husband Dave.

Winner of the Baume & Mercier watch, Natalie Farnell, with her husband James.

CYSTIC FIBROSIS GALA The Cystic Fibrosis Guild welcomed 489 guests to their 29th Annual Gala at the Newport Beach Marriott Hotel and Spa on Saturday, June 2, raising $535,000 for cystic fibrosis research and care. Cystic fibrosis is a fatal, hereditary disease that affects the lungs and digestive system. The evening included a popular martini bar in the silent auction reception, where guests bid on the exciting auction items and entered in the raffle drawing. Traditional Jewelers was happy to donate this year’s raffle prize: a ladies Baume & Mercier steel and 18K rose gold Linea Chronograph, won by Natalie Farnell. The master of ceremonies was Shawn Parr of Go Country 105FM, and Guild president Sue Hook presented the Foundation’s prestigious “Breath of Life” award to the Huston family for their unwavering support. To date, the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation’s efforts over the past 28 years have netted over $9.5 million dollars.

Founder of Traditional Jewelers, Lula Halfacre, with keynote speaker Alan Hobson.

CIRCLE 1000 AND THE HOAG FAMILY CANCER INSTITUTE CELEBRATING 25 YEARS OF SUPPORT Recognizing Hoag physicians, Circle 1000 founders and, of course, cancer survivors, fighters and caregivers, Traditional Jewelers was proud to be a part of the celebration and donated a Breitling Avenger Seawolf watch to help raise money for the cause. The morning’s celebrations consisted of a lovely brunch and motivating keynote speaker Alan Hobson.

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TRADITIONAL JEWELERS EVENTS Balboa Yacht Club, located in Corona del Mar, is the founder and host of the Governor’s Cup, its signature regatta. Over the years, Gov Cup week has become an attraction for the entire Newport Beach community.

THE 46TH ANNUAL GOV CUP The Governor’s Cup, the oldest Junior Match Racing championship in the world, has earned the title “Pathway for Champions” as its alumni over the 45 year history have gone on to “fame and fortune” as America’s Cup and World Match Race Tour participants and winners, including both the skipper and tactician on Oracle’s 2010 America’s Cup win. As U.S. and international competition continues to increase in the Gov Cup, this trend will continue as competitors in this 46th event begin their careers in the world’s major match and fleet race events. The Cup regatta was first held at the Balboa Yacht Club in 1967 and was donated by then-Governor (and later President of the United States) Ronald Reagan.

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ONGPRE PHOTOS

Tim Coltman, the winning skipper from Royal Port Nicholson Yacht Club of Wellington, New Zealand, with the watch donated by Traditional Jewelers.


ACCENT(ADVISOR) OVER THE YEARS, MY HUSBAND HAS GIVEN ME MANY SMALL AND DELICATE PENDANTS THAT I SOMETIMES WEAR TO MAKE HIM HAPPY, BUT DON’T REALLY LOVE. ANY IDEAS? How about buying a beautiful gold link chain and creating a charm bracelet or necklace? Or combining a few of the smaller pendants into a more significant piece? Bring them into the store and we’ll be happy to work with you on designing something truly special that you’ll wear with pride and that you BOTH will love.

Yes! The intrinsic value of precious metal is always a good investment, particularly in a precarious economy. In fact, a gold ring purchased 25 years ago is worth at least 10 times as much today. Gold is indestructible: it does not corrode or tarnish; all the gold that has ever been mined still exists. In addition, jewelry designers today are creating more spectacular works in gold than ever before. Next time you visit us, we’ll show you some truly irresistible investments—both financial and emotional!

I OFTEN HEAR TALK ABOUT “LAYERING” JEWELRY. BUT ISN’T ONE GREAT PIECE MORE IMPACTFUL THAN MANY LESSER PIECES? Depending on the outfit, one great piece is often the most dramatic way to wear jewelry, but mixing pieces (layering) is another good option, an expressive way to create looks that are more personal and uniquely you. And these days, there are few rules. Yellow, white and rose gold can be combined in a single piece or worn at the same time in separate pieces. Modern and Deco-inspired styles can work hand in hand; colored gemstones can be mixed and matched according to your tastes, your personality, your mood of the moment. (Contrast colors are very “in” this season.) Spend some time experimenting with creative combinations and see what moves you. Often, an old piece worn differently can become a new favorite!

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DO I NEED TO BUY MY WATCH FROM AN AUTHORIZED DEALER? Absolutely yes! Unfortunately, today there are plenty of decent-seeming knockoffs available on the internet and even in stores. Unless your dealer is authorized, you can never be sure what you’re buying, so when the time comes for repairs or your watch requires a replacement part, you could be out of luck. Why jeopardize your investment in such an important item, which is often not just a timepiece, but a treasured heirloom?

ERICA MOLINARI

IS THIS A GOOD TIME TO INVEST IN GOLD?


RED CARPET

Standout Style

WITH MEGAWATT SMILES AND FASHIONS TO MATCH, THESE STARS CAN’T HELP BUT CATCH YOUR EYE. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

P

ADRIEN BRODY

MARIA MENOUNOS

roof positive that socialite and reality TV personality Olivia Palermo deserves her reputation as a trendsetter. At Fabergé’s party in the Loft & Garden atop Rockefeller Center, her outfit was simple but stylish, featuring subtle nautical details perfectly

complemented by a large link necklace, pretty bangles and statement-making cocktail ring. In a classic tuxedo and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak timepiece, Adrien Brody looks every bit the consummate gentleman. Over 150 guests joined the Academy Award-winning actor at a black tie gala in Milan to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the iconic watch design. On the rooftop of New York City’s STK, Maria Menounos brought star power to the launch 16

GETTY FOR FABERGE; JACOPO RAULE/GETTY FOR AUDEMARS PIGUET; FINDYOURFACEMATE.COM

OLIVIA PALERMO


RED CARPET party for dating site findyourfacemate.com. Her stack of mixed-material bracelets was right on trend, while her dainty and delicate white gold necklace flashed a subtle show of sparkle to those lucky enough to get close. Golden goddess Frida Pinto (with boyfriend Dev Patel at the world premiere of her film Black Gold in Qatar) chose bold bangles to play up the braided trim on her ethereal gown. The result: a look that’s both flowing and glowing.

DIANE KRUGER

JESSICA ALBA

As a juror at the 2012 Cannes Film Festival, Diane Kruger was expected to walk every red carpet...and she didn’t disappoint. This heavenly sheath was just one of many wow-worthy ensembles she chose. In order to let floral appliqués and feathers take the spotlight, Kruger accessorized simply with a sparkly clutch and vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre timepiece. In a white hot curve-hugging dress and jewelry inspired by Princesse Grace de Monaco, actress Jessica Alba looked like royalty at a party hosted by Montblanc in Beijing. 18

SEAN GALLUP/GETTY; JAEGER-LECOULTRE; ANDREAS RENTZ/GETTY

FRIDA PINTO AND DEV PATEL


TRADITIONAL JEWELERS

WatchReport

A. LANGE & SÖHNE

CHANEL

CARTIER

For Her PATEK PHILIPPE

TAG HEUER

A. LANGE & SÖHNE Saxonia Automatic, 37mm case in yellow gold with diamond bezel and mother-of-pearl dial. White crocodile strap. CARTIER Tank Anglaise watch small model. 18K rose gold, diamonds. CHANEL Chromatic, 38mm, scratch-proof ceramic and titanium case and bracelet, automatic movement, date display, water resistant to 200m. TAG HEUER LINK watch in stainless steel with diamond dial and diamond bezel. Date window at 6 o’clock. 34.5mm. PATEK PHILIPPE Ladies' Moon Phase in rose gold. Bezel and case set with 274 graduated size diamonds, white mother-of-pearl dial. Alligator strap and diamond buckle.

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OMEGA

BREITLING

IWC

For Him ROLEX

PANERAI

OMEGA Seamaster Diver: The James Bond 007 50th Anniversary Collector's Piece in stainless steel. IWC Big Pilot’s watch Top Gun Miramar, 48mm ceramic case with a green textile strap, mechanical movement with a Pellaton automatic winding, 7-day power reserve. Date display and power reserve display on the dial. BREITLING Transocean Chronograph Unitime. Red gold case, black dial and black crocodile strap. PANERAI Radiomir 8 Days Titanio, 45mm brushed titanium case, brown dial, alligator strap, brushed titanium buckle, hand-wound mechanical movement, Panerai P.2002 calibre, water-resistant to 10 bar (100 meters). ROLEX Oyster Perpetual Datejust II, 41mm in stainless steel with polished bezel and Oyster bracelet. 21


SPEED

THE THRILL OF VICTORY O

ver the decades, numerous Hollywood film stars have been bitten by the racing bug. There may be some profound reasons for this, or it may simply be that famous actors are accustomed to glamour and attention. When filming is over, the thirst for the excitement, danger and competition kicks in. (Or as Paul Newman once put it, “There’s no acting needed when driving; it’s just you and the machine.”) The connection between film stars and motor racing dates back to the turn of the 20th century, when Barney Oldfield became the first man to travel at one mile per minute. His fame as a racecar driver led to film stardom in the first half of that century. A significant number of racing films were made during that time, but the greatest of all was John Frankenheimer’s 1966 film Grand Prix starring James Garner. Garner went on to form a successful racing organization called American International Racers (AIR); when filming was completed, his cars raced with considerable success at Le Mans, Daytona, Sebring and other famous race circuits around the world. Steve McQueen’s film Le Mans may not have been a critic’s choice for best drama, but the racing action was brilliant, and his reputation as an accomplished racecar driver and motorcycle racer subsequently grew. Paul Newman filmed Winning around the same time; while it also lacked dramatic quality, the racing scenes

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filmed at the Indianapolis 500 brought viewers to the edge of their seats. Newman’s racing was legendary, and at the age of 80 he was even part of a winning team at the Rolex 24 at Daytona. James Dean, James Coburn and Tom Cruise also enjoyed motor racing, earning respect in the amateur ranks of the sport. But today it’s Patrick Dempsey who charms race fans on and off the track. His dedication to the sport is unparalleled as a driver, team owner and ambassador for motor racing. Actors may not appreciate equal billing on film credits, but at a race circuit, they overwhelmingly acknowledge the team effort, giving much credit to their crews, their sponsors and their cars. Famous names like Ferrari, Porsche, Aston Martin, Lotus, Corvette, BMW and others have loyal fans of their own. In certain cases, the driver and the car are even upstaged by the race circuit. Just hearing names like Daytona, Sebring, Le Mans, Monaco, Spa-Francorchamps and Monza brings intense emotion to motor racing enthusiasts. And just as actors aspire to win an Academy Award, racecar drivers dream of winning a series championship. In 2012, endurance road racing in America celebrated two remarkable anniversaries: The Rolex 24 at Daytona marked its 50th and Sebring its 60th. Both venues have earned a unique place in the history of international motorsports—stars in their own right. Above: Patrick Dempsey enjoys a day at the races.

NOLET’S GIN

CARS, STARS AND HISTORIC RACE CIRCUITS. BY DAVID A. ROSE


GARYS

Available at Fashion Island, Newport Beach 949.759.1622 garysonline.com

Passion for Nature

Featuring “Oasi Zegna” Landscape


TIMEPIECES

WHAT WOMEN WANT S

ince 1830, Baume & Mercier has been making fine Swiss watches that last. And since the early 1900s—when women first started wearing timepieces on brooches, as necklaces and around their wrists—the brand has designed specifically with discerning females in mind. “In the early days, there were only larger men’s timepieces. Baume & Mercier was one of the first (in fact, we helped start the trend) to manufacture timepieces for women,“ explains Rudy Chavez, brand president of North America. “Because we’ve been doing it for over 100 years, it’s a part of our DNA; we aren’t just making smaller versions of men’s watches. “There are more similarities than differences between men and women when it comes to choosing a timepiece,” Chavez asserts. “They’re both looking for a brand with a pedigree, an attractive style and a good value. But one difference is that women are really seeking versatility. They want a watch they can wear formally, at work and on the weekends.” With that aim, Baume & Mercier introduced the Linea collection, designed exclusively for women and offered in steel, steel with 18K gold, and steel with diamonds. This year they’ve expanded the collection with new sizes and materials, including rose gold (above), and a larger collection of straps that allows a woman to choose between links, colored leathers, and even satin for evening.

The watch maker has also recently unveiled a delicate new size in its Hampton collection, first introduced in 1994. Inspired by a museum piece from the 1940s, the collection combines key original design elements, like a distinctive rectangular case, with stylish modern accents. Today’s reinterpretation of this iconic piece in its smaller size (left) gracefully embodies vintage Art Deco styling with a timeless twist. Baume & Mercier’s timeless designs are precisely what make its watches the perfect gift. “You want to give a watch with a rich history and a Swiss pedigree,” says Chavez. “And you don’t want to give a gift that five years from now will be outdated. You want that someone special to love it as much years later as they did on day one.” The brand’s campaign theme is ‘Life is About Moments,’ so when Chavez, who spends much of the year traveling, runs into someone wearing a Baume & Mercier timepiece, he likes to ask how they acquired it. “It’s incredible how many times they reply that the watch was a gift, and they glow as they tell me the story of where they were and who gave it to them, whether it was from their father on graduation day, or their husband to commemorate the birth of a first child. It’s a gift that constantly reminds the wearer of the special occasion they celebrated and the person who gave it to them. “It’s much more than a timepiece; it’s a piece of your life.”

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NOLET’S GIN

BAUME & MERCIER LADIES TIMEPIECES OFFER MODERN STYLING AND A RICH HISTORY. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE


DESIGNER

BESPOKE DESIGN

T

emple St. Clair has captivated a worldwide clientele who are drawn to her distinctive gold work, unique colored gemstones and exquisite craftsmanship, and to her iconic design found in her rock crystal amulets and thematic collections. St. Clair recently introduced bespoke design work, where she invites clients to collaborate directly with her to create one-of-a-kind collectible jewels. Here, she reveals the rich history behind her brand, her inspirations, and leads us through the creative process of designing a bespoke piece.

How did you start designing jewelry? I’ve always fancied myself an adventurer and explorer. I studied art history and Italian literature during college and graduate school and ended up staying in Florence for what turned out to be a 12-year sojourn. Early on I became fascinated with ancient coins. On a visit to a numismatic antiquarian shop with my mother, I found a rare 4th-century BC Carthaginian coin. She gave me the task of making it into a piece of jewelry. Searching for a goldsmith in the back alleys of Florence led me into a

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NOLET’S GIN

TEMPLE ST. CLAIR CREATES ONE-OF-A-KIND COLLECTIBLE JEWELS.


magical world of artistry, history and culture. I made a hobby of studying the history behind the coins and began collecting them to set into jewelry. I did this as a way to support my travels, never with the intention of starting a business. By chance, a scout from Barneys saw my pieces, and urged me to show my work to the buyers in New York; they loved what I was doing, encouraged me to expand my collection, offering me a case with my name on it…the rest is history. I still work with some of the same goldsmiths in Florence; they’re like family. How has your aesthetic evolved over the years? If you had to describe your collections today, what would you say? I just celebrated my 25th year of designing jewelry. My work still nods to its classic roots, but it’s just becoming more and more refined as I have honed my skills and my knowledge. What inspires you most? Cultural connections between all of the arts…from performing arts to fine art to architecture. I love how all things connect. Nothing is in isolation. I look at Frank Lloyd Wright and see Zen Buddhism. Etruscan art connects to India and China and the migration of tribes. I love cultural anthropology. People have always worn jewelry, from the caveman to the rapper. Jewelry is always a sign of the times…a statement about what is meaningful. What influences your designs today? So many things. I have a Celestial collection, for example, where I looked at old astronomical paintings for inspiration. Travel is also huge. For example, one of my collections had a Buddhist inspiration and came about after a trip to northern India, where I looked at Tibetan paintings. From an anthropological/jewelry perspective, how will our times go down in history? I’ve found when times are shakier, personal connections and things held close to the heart (like charms and amulets) are more important. People want jewelry to have more meaning and value. I create pieces of great quality, with a rarity of gemstones and craftsmanship. Mine is a slow process and my pieces are meant to be timeless, modern classics. People want more important pieces. What are your signature pieces? Definitely my rock crystal amulets. The very first I made was in 1986, and it was a sphere of rock crystal encased in 18-karat gold. It was inspired by an amulet I saw in the Archaeological Museum of Florence. Amulets and charms have been with us since ancient times, and the idea of them fascinates me. It’s a stylish item, women are drawn to it somehow, and I do many different kinds in each new collection, so they can always find one that appeals to them. Can you describe the woman who wears your jewelry? She’s a very confident, well-traveled, well-read woman and refers to herself as a creative type even if she’s a doctor or a lawyer. She also likes to put together her own look. An interesting point: The women who wear my jewelry usually buy it for themselves as opposed to their husband or partner gifting it to them. What’s the biggest mistake women make when it comes to jewelry? I don’t think there are rules, really—you have to create your own since

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jewelry is an expression of who you are. I am not particularly matchy-matchy when I wear jewelry. I won’t match earrings and a necklace, for example. They relate in some way, but aren’t the same. Is there a “little black dress” equivalent in jewelry? A great gold chain, large or small, that is beautifully made, and some signature charm or pendant that becomes identifiable with that person. In my collection, that would be my Arno chain with a Rock Crystal Vine Amulet. Any great stories of celebrities that wear your jewelry? I don’t pursue celebrities to wear my jewelry, but I love when they choose it on their own. Years ago I designed wedding rings for Ted Danson and Mary Steenburgen. Last spring, I was at an event and Julia Roberts showed up in blue moonstone earrings and a necklace of mine, looking great. At the Accessories Hall of Fame awards, Cynthia Nixon presented in my jewelry. I love that she wears it. She’s a fellow New Yorker…down to earth, talented and passionate about education. She’s a true artist, very real. What’s your favorite personal piece of jewelry? I am never without my rock crystal amulets. But my “thesis” is a pendant called the Tolomeo after the 1st-century astronomer, Ptolemy. It extols the ancient theory that the Earth is the center of the universe. It’s rather complex with astrological glyphs and Latin engravings. It’s humorous and whimsical.

Can you walk us through the process of bringing a Temple St. Clair Bespoke piece to life? From season to season, I curate an array of rare gems, from blue green African Paraiba tourmaline, to earthy mandarin garnet, to a perfect necklace suite of rubellite tourmaline, to an exquisite tanzanite to be set in a ring or a pendant. Watercolor renderings have been made to suggest designs for these gems, but that’s just to get the conversation going. The ultimate experience is the collaborative process between me and my clients to choose a rare gem and bespoke design. The result: a one-of-a-kind, timeless treasure. *Appointments can be arranged through Hyde Park Jewelers, at our stores or at Temple St. Clair’s New York studio.


BIGGER IS BETTER

Clockwise from top: Kwiat Jacquard collection earrings with 1.62 carats of diamonds set in 18K white gold. Ippolita Open Cascade earrings in 18K gold. Marco Bicego mixed sapphire earrings in 18K gold.

RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY OF ACCESSORIESDIRECTIONS.COM

TRADITIONAL JEWELERS RUNWAY TRENDS


18 K   A N G E L   P E N D A N T S   A N D   C H A I N S


TRADITIONAL JEWELERS RUNWAY TRENDS

FALL FOR COLOR

From top: Marco Bicego hand-engraved 18K gold Siviglia necklace with mixed sapphires. Penny Preville blue sapphire ring and drop earrings in 18K white gold and diamonds. Stephen Webster 18K white gold Large Deco Haze Hexagonal earrings with black diamonds and green agate crystal haze.


ARMENTACOLLECTION.COM


TRADITIONAL JEWELERS RUNWAY TRENDS

CUFFS & BANGLES

From top: Penny Preville diamond and 18K white gold cuff bracelet. Temple St. Clair Vine cuff in 18K yellow gold. Armenta Old World Midnight bracelets in yellow gold with black and white diamonds, sapphires, blue mother of pearl, opals, labradorite and peacock tourmaline.


Your Golden Angel “Angel´s Wings“ collection

The extraordinary love story of a Wellendorff admirer has taught us that angels not only protect but also connect lovers with one another forever. This letter has inspired us to create our new “Angel´s Wings“ collection. It has been a fresh reminder to the genuine value of jewellery: to bring joy and offer protection. Experience this magical story and the entire collection at www.wellendorff.com or at Traditional.


GOLDEN CHARM YELLOW GOLD AND DIAMONDS ADD SPARKLE AND SOPHISTICATION. PHOTOGRAPHY BY EDWIN SANTA

TRADITIONAL JEWELERS COLLECTION oval hoop earrings and overlapping ring featuring pavé diamonds set in 18K yellow gold TRADITIONAL JEWELERS COLLECTION woven necklace and bangle bracelet featuring pavé diamonds set in 18K yellow gold CARTIER Tank Anglaise watch in 18K yellow gold and diamonds ABS ALLEN SCHWARTZ dress


IPPOLITA 18K gold, diamond and gemstone jewelry from the Rock Candy Gelato collection ABS ALLEN SCHWARTZ dress


MARCO BICEGO Africa Collection hand-engraved 18K yellow gold drop earrings and graduated necklace MARCO BICEGO Africa Collection handengraved 18K yellow gold overlapping and cuff bangle ABS ALLEN SCHWARTZ dress


TEMPLE ST. CLAIR 18K yellow gold drop earrings featuring blue moonstones and pavé diamonds from the Royal Blue Moonstone collection ADOLFO COURRIER Classic Gold collection stackable 18K yellow gold rings featuring yellow sapphires and white diamonds TEMPLE ST. CLAIR rock crystal amulet featuring rock crystal, pavé diamonds and blue moonstones set in 18K yellow gold on an 18K yellow gold chain necklace NHA KHANH dress Hair by Joe Steven Makeup by Eliut Tarin Nails by Abigail Alcala Styled by Carla Loo Photographer Assistant Marlon Pacheco ABS Allen Schwartz collection courtesy of Bloomingdale’s Aventura. All jewelry available at Traditional Jewelers.


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THE ORIGINAL ANNUAL OF THE WORLD’S FINEST JEWELRY

®

T O U R B I L L O N I N T E R N AT I O N A L 2012 EDITIONS

Jewelry Vol.IV

International

CAROLINE CHILDERS

WATCHES INTERNATIONAL 2012

GRAND COMPLICATIONS VOL. VIII

JEWELRY INTERNATIONAL VOL. IV

THE MORE THAN 50 HIGH-END

DEVOTED TO EXAMINING THE

EXPLO RI NG THE

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TECHNICALLY CHALLENGING

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ASP ECTS OF THE WATCHMAKER’S

PERSONAL AD ORNMENT,

TURN TIME INTO AN AESTHETIC

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JEWELRY INTERNATIONAL

AND TECHNOLOGICAL DELIGHT.

GRAND COMPLICATIONS

FEATURES THE HISTORICAL

DETAILED INFORMATION AND

DELVES INTO THE HISTORY AND

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PHOTOGRAPHS MAKE

LATEST ADVANCES OF EACH

FROM ARO UND THE WORLD

THIS A MUST-HAVE FOR ANY

COMPLICATION, IN ARTICLES

AS WELL AS TO DAY’S MOST

WATCH AFICIONADO.

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TRENDS

Nicole Kidman wears Deco-inspired earrings

ROARING TWENTIES REDUX THIS YEAR’S FUN-TO-WEAR FASHION MOVEMENT.

F

rom fashion to jewelry, Art Deco is currently the leading style inspiration. “And come this spring and summer, it will get stronger, then even bigger by fall/winter 2013,” says Ellen Sideri, CEO of ESP Trendlab in New York City, which tracks fashion trends and cultural patterns. Interestingly, the real excitement isn’t about original vintage jewelry and fashion, but rather contemporary styles inspired by that roarin’ era of the 1920s and ’30s. It’s more “Deco redefined.” Each in its own signature style, luxury brands are creating modern collections based on design elements that defined the Deco movement: streamlined shapes, a strong color palette, graphic patterns, geometric stone cuts, linear symmetry, elongated silhouettes and ancient Egyptian and Aztec forms.

designer after another using the 1920s (and the 1910s) as their muse.” For his fall/winter haute couture collection, Jean Paul Gaultier has embraced the period in a big way, with highly graphic gold metal cage designs pieced into dresses and jackets, as well as softer glam flapper looks. And Alexander McQueen’s 2013 resort collection spectacularly marries Art Deco with inspirations from the linear work of the legendary Gustav Klimt. Amanda Gizzi, director of communications for the Jewelry Information Center in New York, explains: “As our country has been coming out of difficult economic times, more and more customers are asking for jewelry that isn’t cookie-cutter. And these modern pieces, which are influenced by Deco but a bit edgier, are perfectly suited to what they want.”

FILM AND FASHION INFLUENCES

THE “NEW DECO” LOOK

Before we tell you what you should look for and how to wear it, let’s explore the big question of why Deco, why now? What brought on jewelry’s obsession with the brilliance of the Jazz Age? In spring 2013, The Great Gatsby remake hits theatres and, with A-lister Leonardo DiCaprio starring as Jay Gatsby, Art Deco designs will be very much in the spotlight. Added to that, in both ready-to-wear and couture for 2012/2013, Art Deco references ruled the runways. Sideri notes, “We’re seeing lots of beads, feathers, and embroidery—but elegant and luxurious—with one

To do New Deco, there are a few jewelry items you want on your wish list: TASSEL EARRINGS AND PENDANTS Swinging tassel earrings and

Above from left: Stephen Webster Cascade tassel earrings with blue sapphires and white diamonds in 18K white gold from the Forget Me Knot collection; Stephen Webster Forget Me Knot Cascade pendant in 18K white gold; Ivanka Trump black onyx pendant from the Gilded Cage collection in 18K gold

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IMAGE.NET BY GETTY

BY LORRAINE DEPASQUE


pendants were the perfect complements to high-hemline dresses, and today you’ll find lots of colorful versions in whatever gemstone you like. ROPES OF PEARLS If you already have a strand of opera-length pearls, think Clara Bow or Daisy Buchanan and drape them on! Then be sure to get another long rope of pearls to layer in; finish the look by knotting that second strand. The knotted pearl necklace is back! DANGLY COLORED-GEM DROPS “Deco earrings are always very desirable at auction,” says Ann Lange, senior vice president and director of jewelry for the prestigious auction house Doyle New York. “The linear hanging kind, because they’re simple yet they have strong design.”

especially emerald cuts. “In our Important Estate Jewelry auctions, the top three diamond cuts in original Art Deco are emerald, Asscher and cushion,” says Lange. “Emerald cuts are forever classics, and I’m seeing a lot of interest in contemporary jewelry with cushion cuts.” Step-cut shapes like trapezoids and half-moons are often seen as side stones in Deco designs, so this year and going forward, you’ll see them in the New Deco collections, too. Actress Sofia Vergara’s engagement ring, for example, features a cushion-cut center stone with a trapezoid diamond on either side. COLORS Deco jewelry tends to rely on bold gemstone colors, in contrast to the austerity of the Edwardian period that From Jean Paul preceded the Roaring ’20s. The most Gaultier’s Paris notable shades are black, green, red Haute Couture and blue, plus white, which, if done in collection fall/winter 2012 enamel, for example, can impart a distinctive boldness. Black: Onyx was perhaps the most widely used black gemstone during the 1920s and ’30s, so some New Deco pieces incorporate it, too. But they more often feature black diamonds, black sapphires and black opals. Green: “Carved jade was [used] in a lot of vintage Deco,” notes Lange, so modern jewelry artisans are favoring this green variety as well. But emeralds and agates are two other green favorites. This year, in fact, emeralds are so hot in fashion that it may even be difficult for May-born women (whose birthstone is emerald) to get their hands on it! Red: Rubies, ruby-red enamels and deep red corals top the list of must-have New Deco reds, but especially ruby, as Lange notes, “because there were a lot of Burma rubies in original Art Deco jewelry.” Gizzi adds, “Since this movement started to grow, I’ve seen a lot more dark-red corals in jewelry—something I hadn’t seen in a long time.” Blue: Look for primary-color blue gems, like lapis-lazuli and sapphire, but also cobalt blue alternative materials like enamel, resin and ceramic. A wealth of lapis jewelry was found in King Tut’s tomb, a key reason the blue gem became an important influence on jewelry of the period. White: Rock crystal, white pearls and white diamonds top New Deco’s white stone list. “Certainly, rock crystal was used a lot in Art Deco—it was very prized then and it is now, too,” says Lange. “There were also lots of natural pearls back then.” Consider, too, some of the New Deco pieces that mix black Tahitian pearls with white metal, as the black-and-white color scheme was a key color combination then and now.

DIAMOND CASCADE EARRINGS In the ’20s and ’30s, women often donned earrings made of cascading diamonds to add femininity to their newly invogue short bobbed haircuts. Back then, diamond chandeliers (as they’re now known) replaced ear clips, hair combs and hat pins.

BIG GEOMETRIC RINGS Rings were large and rectangular, and women often wore several on one hand. For evening, oversized emeralds and rubies played a strong role, in white or yellow metal. Contemporary Deco jewelry gives you lots of price options, with many brands even making Deco-style uber-rings with sterling silver and natural gemstones.

BANGLES AND BRACELETS When women started wearing sleeveless styles, bracelets became an important accessory. Bangles were clustered on their wrists or higher on the upper arms. As for flexible gemstone bracelets, Lange says, “Deco diamond bracelets are also very desirable at our auctions; the workmanship was exceptional.” DECO-THEME PIECES If you’re someone who likes to wear symbolic jewelry, there’s a lot of New Deco pieces inspired by the iconography of the ’20s and ’30s, skyscrapers like the Eiffel Tower and the Chrysler Building á la the era’s unique architectural movement. Or choose something unique with carvings or silhouettes of pyramids, obelisks, palm fronds and lotus flowers—motifs that often appeared in period pieces, influenced by the 1922 discovery of King Tut’s tomb.

NEW DECO CUTS & COLORS

CUTS With the exception of tiny beads used for tassels, reminiscent of renowned Deco jewelers like Jean Fouquet, the geometric bent of Art Deco jewelry design is typically achieved by incorporating angular stones,

Above: Gurhan Lotus collection necklace; Lagos ring

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PROFILE

THERE ARE DIAMONDS, AND THERE ARE FOREVERMARK DIAMONDS. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

QUINTESSENTIAL DIAMONDS F

or those who demand perfection, there are few options. Forevermark, part of the De Beers group (the foremost international diamond expert for 120-plus years), offers only the finest carefully selected, responsibly sourced diamonds, meticulously cut and inscribed by highly trained master craftsmen. Less than one percent of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s diamonds are eligible to bear the Forevermark inscription and only a select group of jewelers (we among them) are authorized to sell these incredible gems. Inscribed using highly advanced proprietary technology, these superlative diamonds feature the Forevermark icon and a unique identification number, both invisible to the naked eye. The actual size of the inscription is one 20th of a micron deep (one 500th the size of a human hair) and can be seen in our store using a special viewer. Although the inscription in no way affects the exceptional internal quality of the diamond, it does ensure beauty, rarity, responsible sourcing and added security. Expert gemologists at The Forevermark Diamond Institute in Antwerp assess each stone according to rigorous standards of integrity and accuracy. The result is the Forevermark Diamond Grading Report, your guarantee of excellence and authenticity. Those of us who are socially conscious should know that Forevermark diamonds are guaranteed conflict-free. But more than that, the company goes above and beyond industry standards to ensure that their sourcing actively benefits communities in their countries of origin, countries committed to the highest business, social and environmental standards. Beauty, rarity and integrity in one quintessential diamond: No wonder Forevermark is the jewel of choice for Gwyneth Paltrow, Uma Thurman, Nicole Kidman, Michelle Williams and fabulous women everywhere, on and off the red carpet.

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WEDDINGS

STORY PHOTOGRAPHERS

A SPECIAL BRIDAL SECTION FROM ACCENT MAGAZINE


Set the Tone BY JILLIAN L A ROCHELLE

QUIRKY WORDING

THE NEW NEONS LOCATION LOCATION LOCATION “We get a lot of clients asking to do something location-specific, like this custom design that features the Boston skyline,” says Samantha Finigan of Gus & Ruby Letterpress in Portsmouth, N.H. Whether your bash is in the city or country, it’s a great personalized touch. (Bonus points if the design is handillustrated.)

Neon colors are hot right now. They’re showing up everywhere from fashion to home décor, and of course, in wedding design. Neon on white looks fresh and is the prefect way to make a simple graphic statement. For the not-so-bold, Finigan assures us that “muted watercolor pastels are also a big color trend, especially in letterpress printing.”

HAVE FUN WITH FONTS With typefaces this interesting, who needs colors or imagery? We think they’re plenty pretty on their own. According to Finegan, “Justified [centered] type with variations in font has been a huge hit.”

Carolina and Logan replaced the usual “reception to follow” with this fun phrase promising “wild revelry” after the ceremony. RSVP cards are another great place to experiment with expressions. Instead of “will attend” and “will not attend,” try “wouldn’t miss it for the world” and “we’ll be there in spirit,” or the simple-but-cheeky “yay” and “nay.”

IMPACTFUL INVITATIONS WILL GET YOUR GUESTS EXCITED FOR THE BIG DAY. In addition to the trends we’ve highlighted here, Finigan recommends adding a foil stamp or a splash of unexpected color to freshen up a traditional invitation design. Envelope liners are a fun way to introduce a pattern that might otherwise overwhelm your invitation. And don’t forget about the front of the envelope: it’s the very first thing guests will see when they open the mailbox! Hand calligraphy is always the ultimate luxe touch, and some brides are choosing an assortment of vintage stamps to add a final pop of visual interest. A C C E N T

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B R I D A L

SECOND IMAGE FROM RIGHT COURTESY BELLA FIGURA; ALL OTHER IMAGES COURTESY BREA MCDONALD FOR GUS & RUBY LETTERPRESS

T H E I N V I TAT I O N S


T H E D E TA I L S

BY LISA MONTEMORRA MENGHI

Something Even Newer AS TIME MOVES FORWARD, SO DOES OUR DESIRE TO RE-INVENT OLD TRADITIONS.

It’s a ritual dating back to the Victorian era that’s meant to bring luck to newlyweds: on her wedding day, the bride carries or wears something old, something new, something borrowed and something blue. Here, a few ideas for the modern bride who wants to honor this age-old custom with a fresh, updated twist.

SOMETHING OLD • Think out of the box. Your ‘somethings’ can be places or decorations instead of worn items. One example: hold your wedding at a historic site. • Display old photos of ancestors (extra points if taken on their wedding days) at your ceremony and/or reception. It’s heartfelt and gives your guests an insight into your family history. • Wear lace or a button from a family member’s wedding dress in your hair, or incorporate it into your bouquet. • Have your ring bearer carry the rings in a treasured heirloom instead of on the standard satin

book table. It will elicit good memories of shared family meals and togetherness. • Give your grandmother’s crystal candleholders or vase a vacation from the curio cabinet with a place of honor at your ceremony. • Borrow a pretty silver knife from a friend or family member and use it to cut the cake. • Set your sweetheart table with heirloom china and silver, to make your first meal as husband and wife even more special. • If your parents are sentimental, they probably still have their wedding cake topper. Get it out of that dusty box in the garage and give it another go.

SOMETHING BLUE our bouquet Embellish y a family dress. m o with lace fr

SOMETHING BORROWED • Borrow a family tablecloth to dress up the escort card or guest

A C C E N T

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• Incorporate a beautiful blue stone or side stones into your wedding band. Sapphire, blue topaz, tanzanite and aquamarine are all excellent choices. • Why not wear a pair of strappy blue evening shoes? They’ll be a fun flash of color beneath your dress. • Getting rid of wedding cake guilt

B R I D A L

Something b and yummy lue... too! is easy: decorate it with delicious fresh blueberries and meet your daily fruit quota! • When you go for your wedding day pedicure, choose a pretty pale blue. Or how about a strip of blue to replace the white on a French manicure? • Use a small blue clutch for your lipstick, cell phone and other wedding day necessities. • Signature drinks are always fun. Why not use Blue Curaçao to concoct your custom cocktail? • Splurge on luxurious blue lingerie for your wedding night.

SOMETHING NEW

• A brand new piece of jewelry, of course! You’ll be investing in an heirloom that will have special meaning for the next generation of your family.

CANDLESTICKS: 1STDIBS.COM; CAKE: FANTASY FROSTINGS, SOUTH PASADENA, CA

Above: Sterling Silver Floral Stemmed Pair Candlesticks ca. 1943, USA

pillow. A jewelry box from a beloved family member could also hold a flower girl’s petals. • Instead of wearing heirloom jewelry in its intended manner, pin or sew it onto your gown as a featured design element. • Find an alternative use for your mother’s or grandmother’s veil. Use it to wrap your bouquet or drape it over a photo display table.


THE TRADITIONS

BY JACQUELIN CARNEGIE

Worldwide Weddings

INDIA TOURISM OFFICE, NY

BIG-DAY CUSTOMS FROM CENTURIES-OLD CULTURES.

lthough American-style weddings have gained popularity throughout the world, many countries retain their own colorful wedding traditions. These customs can vary from region to region and according to local religious traditions, but it’s interesting to note that almost all cultures have some version of “tying the knot.” A current trend in the U.S. is to research one’s family heritage and incorporate some of the noteworthy elements into a Western-style ceremony, or to replicate a traditional wedding outright. Here are a few highlights from centuries of tradition around the globe.

Hindu woman is married involve jewelry: Mangalsutra: black and gold beaded necklace with a gold or diamond pendant. The groom ties it around the bride’s neck during the ceremony; it’s comparable to a Western-style wedding ring. Bangles: gold and glass, often studded with precious and semi-precious stones such as diamonds, gems and pearls; mandatory, signifying long life for the husband. Armlets: encrusted with jewels or hanging crystals. Bichiya: toe rings worn as a symbol of the married state along with Anklets on both feet. Mang Tika: gold pendant adorned with jewels that hangs in the middle of the forehead. Nose Ring: an essential In many cultures, before the INDIA gold accessory in the left nostril. Rani Haar: gold wedding, the women gather Indian weddings are planned in accordance with filigree necklace with precious stones symbolizing at the bride’s house for a age-old customs and are known to be some of the prosperity. Earrings and Jhoomar: a piece of henna party with singing most beautiful and lavish. Weddings usually last five jewelry with gems worn on the side of the head; and dancing. The bride’s hands and feet are covered days with a number of rituals before, during and matches the design of the rani haar necklace. Waist with beautiful after the ceremony. The bride is adorned with lots of Band: like a necklace around the belly studded with henna designs. gold jewelry to symbolize wealth (a wearable “savings precious or semi-precious stones. Rings: worn on both account”) and purity. The gold given to the bride by her hands, attached to a bracelet by a central medallion. family, which they often start acquiring as soon as she’s born, contributes These are the most important aspects of a Hindu wedding ceremony: to her own “independent” wealth. Many of the symbols that indicate a Mangalfera: The couple walks around the sacred fire four times,

DID YOU KNOW?

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B R I D A L


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THE UNIVERSAL STANDARD BY WHICH GEMS ARE JUDGED.


PRICELESS INSIGHT YVETTE ECKMAN knows jewelry from the inside, out.

T

hree things a jeweler can’t do without. Customers. Integrity. And diamonds. How did you get into the business? I was fortunate enough to have taken a jewelry making class in high school. I’ve been hooked ever since and pursued a higher education with GIA in gems and jewelry. All-time favorite piece of jewelry? My diamond pendant that I wear almost everyday— it’s a symbol of my father’s love. Most valuable lesson learned at work? A client’s trust is earned. And the greater the personal connection I create with a client, the more likely I am to help them choose a piece of jewelry that resonates in every way. What should a customer always look for? A well-respected jeweler that is knowledgeable, personable and offers quality jewelry a customer would wear for a lifetime.

Why is a GIA report so important? A GIA report provides the highest level of assurance and security in the quality of the diamond you’re about to purchase. Insider’s tip? Informed is empowered. Best source for diamond know-how? 4cs.gia.edu. Not only to explain what to look for in a diamond, it’s information jewelers use themselves.


stopping to touch a stone in the path with their toes to symbolize obstacles in life that they’ll overcome together. The four rounds signify: Dharma, righteousness; Artha, monetary accomplishment; Kama, energy and passion; Moksha, liberation from everything in life. Saptapadi: After the groom's scarf has been tied to the bride's dress signifying they’ll always stay together, the couple takes seven steps around the sacred fire representing nourishment, strength, prosperity, happiness, progeny, long life and marital harmony. The marriage is then considered legalized according to the Hindu Marriage Act as well as traditional customs.

MEXICO

have a Scottish surname, there’s a good chance you have a corresponding family tartan, so the men in your wedding party can all sport kilts. Bagpipes are appropriate music as is dancing the Lang Reel. Other Scottish wedding traditions vary by region: In the Borders, a sprig of heather in the bridal bouquet brings luck. In Aberdeen, Grampian, Angus and Dundee, luck comes with a sixpence in the bride’s shoe. And for financial luck, the bride’s father throws a handful of coins for the children to “scramble.” In the northeast, the best man gifts the happy couple with a clock, while the maid of honor gives them a tea set. In Shetland, wedding celebrations continue for two days with dancing and drinking. It’s said that “tying the knot” comes from an ancient Celtic practice with roots in pagan rituals. The bride and groom rip their wedding tartans and tie two strips together to symbolize the unity of the two families.

“I once read that watching a traditional Mexican boda is like studying the history of the country over the past seven centuries. Rituals and traditions from the Spanish, Aztec, Native American and AngloAmerican cultures are all incorporated into the ceremony,” says Carmen Laborin of the Mexico Tourism Board. Many Mexican wedding processions are accompanied by a JAPAN mariachi band and a donkey carrying bottles of It’s believed that the wedding tequila and wine for toasts along the way. Traditional Shinto wedding ceremonies are held ring originated in ancient Egypt Mexican brides have several vestido de novia at shrines. Brides wear shiromuku (formal white about 4,800 years ago. The ring’s (wedding dress) options depending on their kimono) and grooms wear montsuki (formal circlular shape was said to region and personal taste: everything from black kimono). The bride gets a ring and nine represent eternity, eternal love and a Western-style fancy white dress to a lucky gifts for happiness. It's common that only devotion. Rings were placed on the third finger of the left hand because beautifully embroidered, simple cotton huipil family members and close relatives attend. ancient Egyptians believed to an elaborately embroidered velvet dress or A Shinto priest offers prayers to the deities that it contained a vein one made from the local textiles with and the ceremony begins by purifying the couple. (vena amoris) that symbolic designs. After the purification and vows, the bride and groom led to the heart. Las Arras: In an ancient tradition, during the exchange cups ceremony, the groom gives the bride 13 gold coins of sake (rice wine) representing Jesus and the 12 apostles, which symbolizes the groom’s in the sansan-kudo (threecommitment to support his wife throughout their life together; her times-three) ceremony acceptance is a promise to take care of him. The bride also receives an symbolizing their union and ornate box for the coins’ safekeeping. the uniting of their families. El Lazo: The lasso is a beaded or jeweled rope or ribbon tied around Finally, symbolic offerings of the couple in a figure eight as they exchange their vows, signifying their sakaki (tree sprigs) are given to eternal bond and unity. Once the service is over, it’s removed. The the Kamisama (deity). During ceremony is followed by a parade with mariachi music and a reception that the kekkon hiroen (reception), lasts ’til the wee hours of morning with eating, drinking and dancing. the bride changes clothes several times, a tradition SCOTLAND dating to the 14th century, Today, at most Scottish weddings, the groom, his best man and the signifying her readiness to groomsmen are kitted out Highland-style in matching tartans. If you return to everyday life.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: JORGE TINAJERO; JOYCE YOUNG OF TARTAN SPIRIT; YASUFUMI NISHI COURTESY JNTO

DID YOU KNOW?

A C C E N T

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THE RINGS

BY LAURIE SCHECHTER

NEW AND NON-TRADITIONAL UNIQUE OPTIONS ABOUND TO SUIT EVERY COUPLE’S TASTE.

ince engagement and wedding rings are choices you live with forever, it’s no wonder that current bridal ring trends reflect the individual style and personality of their wearers more than a strict tradition or a certain set of rules. In fact, non-traditional is the new trend! One has only to look to recent famous weddings and engagements for proof: think Angelina Jolie’s custom-designed engagement ring of graduated tablet-shaped diamonds, or the new Mrs. Mark Zuckerberg and Jessica Simpson, both showing off ruby engagement rings. Many of today’s rings are rooted in history. The giving of rings along with taking vows of marriage dates back to ancient times. The wedding band, fashioned into a circle, symbolizes never-ending immortal love, and

the finger it is worn on was thought to have a special vein connected directly to the heart. Both customs are said to have originated in Ancient Egypt. The forerunner to the modern-day engagement ring was the ancient Greeks’ betrothal rings. Early betrothal rings from the Middle Ages, called ‘‘posy’’ rings, were inscribed with poems and love notes. Engagement rings with diamonds were first given by royalty and nobles beginning in the 15th century, mixed with rubies in the 17th and 18th centuries, and had messages spelled out in colored stones in the 18th and 19th centuries. Today’s betrothed have all this history to mine, with the benefit of modernity found in unusual designs and wide range of metals, stones and shapes available.

In actuality, the halo has never really gone away, but it has been trending more strongly for the past few years, which aligns with the reigning popularity of round diamond cuts. The difference now is the variety of designs available, and the cuts and arrangement of the stones. Double halos with two rows of surrounding stones, three-stone rings (a descendent of the early 20th-century princess ring) incorporating halo diamonds, and the stilltrending-strong eternity wedding bands with halo diamonds are all turns on the halo’s road to success. A. Jaffe reports, ‘‘Styles with cushion shaped halos surrounding the center diamond, as well as a cushion cut diamond standing alone in the center setting, are very popular engagement rings. Matching halo earrings and pendants for the bride have also become increasingly popular.’’

2.RESPONSIBLY SOURCED

Choosing diamonds that are sourced in an ethical manner is increasingly important among socially conscious brides. Without question, all the stones we sell in our store are responsibly sourced. Forevermark is among those that guarantee diamonds are carefully selected to meet “high standards of business, social and environmental integrity" (less than 1% of the world's diamonds are eligible to become a Forevermark diamond). Along with this heightened consciousness is the popularity of “recycling” diamonds: wearing vintage or heritage rings, family heirlooms which can be adapted and updated for a fresh look.

3.COLOR MY WORLD

Color seems to be the biggest driver at retail today. It’s the big story for women’s and men’s fashion on the runways and in the stores. Today’s bride, to set herself apart, might even opt for color instead of traditional white for her wedding dress. And color is, of course, also a big trend in engagement rings. Beautiful colored diamonds and other colored gemstones are surging in popularity in no small part due to the Duchess of Cambridge’s (previously Princess Diana’s) gorgeous sapphire engagement ring.

A C C E N T

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B R I D A L

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: FOREVERMARK, FOREVERMARK, SCOTT KAY, A. JAFFE, BEAUDRY

1.RETURN OF THE HALO


TRENDS FOR SAME-SEX COUPLES

4.I’LL TAKE MINE

According to recent stats, there are currently around 50,000 samesex marriages in the United States. This number will continue to grow, and many brands are tailoring their designs to appeal to the emerging market. Of course, since same-sex marriages are grounded in the same traditions as conventional marriages, many of these design trends cross over to the mainstream.

WITH A TWIST

You can’t get much more non-traditional and unique than a twisted band engagement ring. It’s an individual statement with a modern spin that can quickly update the classic solitaire or take pavé in a new direction. In streamlined metal or an all-diamond band, it’s an attention grabber either way.

VINTAGE AND VINTAGE-LOOK ENGAGEMENT RINGS Some women in same-sex marriages are opting for customary engagement and wedding rings, but with more of a personal statement. Perhaps because of the sentimental value that they hold, vintage and vintage-look rings bring to mind the sentiments behind a marriage itself. (Christine Quinn, New York City’s City Council Speaker, married using her fiancée’s mother’s engagement ring.) Vintageinspired is also becoming a coveted look in new rings. Pavé-set diamonds, intricate hand engraving, filigree work and halos are all details reflecting this movement.

5.WIDEN

YOUR HORIZONS

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: MEMOIRE, SCOTT KAY, RITANI, ROBERTO COIN, SCOTT KAY, ROBERTO COIN CENTO, MEMOIRE, RITANI, MEMOIRE

Wide diamond bands and channel rings—where the band can be any width with diamonds filling the “channel” in the center—are trending as wedding bands and, in some cases, can even serve as both the engagement and wedding ring. With the high-powered real estate it occupies on the finger, it’s a glamorous and practical all-in-one statement.

6. MIXING IT UP

Using alternative metals and mixing metals are trends, and the unique options available have increased at an exponential rate. In both engagement rings and women’s wedding bands, there’s been a strong introduction of rose gold on its own or mixed with white gold, platinum or yellow gold. In men’s wedding bands, in addition to the classic yellow gold, white gold and platinum, there are many examples of alternate metals and materials: everything from palladium, tungsten carbide and cobalt to ceramic, titanium and seranite, all with two-tone as a leading direction.

A C C E N T

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WEDDING BANDS AND COMMITMENT RINGS Like the alternative lifestyle they represent, same-sex couples are choosing alternatives for their wedding bands. In traditional yellow or white gold, there might be some kind of unique treatment, like hammered details, on the band. But rings in less common metals are where personal statements can really stand out, especially for men. BioBlu27 Cobalt, the same material used in aerospace and medical applications, has a unique look and is available with diamonds or without. And with new ring styles come new traditions. Some women are foregoing engagement rings altogether, while men can opt for man-gagement rings: wedding bands worn on the right hand before the marriage, then transferred to the left during the wedding ceremony (a mini-trend in opposite sex relationships, as well). At the end of the day, says Dan Scott, CMO of Scott Kay, ‘‘Love is love. We need to remind ourselves that wedding bands are much more than jewelry; wedding bands embody precious, lifelong vows made between any two people in love." And no matter the sexual orientation, today’s couples are choosing rings that suit their personal style.

B R I D A L


THE STORIES

BY MICHAL D I MICELI

Wedding Day Magic

PHOTO BY GREG WOOD PHOTOGRAPHY

A GREAT-GRANDMOTHER VISITS A NEW BRIDE…

had always wanted a vintage wedding, and my dream came true on Saturday, June 9th, 2012 when I wed the man of my dreams in Madison, Connecticut. We worked hard to get all the details right, but I swear it was a few pieces of jewelry from my beloved late great-grandmother that made the day magical. My dress was a magnificent 1960s lace gown I discovered at my local consignment shop. It had puffy shoulders and a high collar, but I saw the potential and had it tailored into a sleeveless mermaid shape. The veil was the original, also from the ’60s, and the engagement and wedding rings were English platinum dating from the early 1900s. The ceremony and reception were held at the beautiful Madison Beach Club, which dates back to the 1920s. My family and I have spent many happy times there, so it was a delight to share it with 140 people I adore. We collected old mason jars to use as flower vases, and I decorated the reception with family wedding photos going back three generations. Everything was in place for my vintage theme, but the most important element was surely the influence of my great-grandmother, Mama Crowley. As a kid, I’d spend hours sitting with Mama. She was confined to her bed, but always looked elegant in her silk and lace robe, with her pink high-heel slippers waiting on the floor. I can’t remember now what we talked about, but I do remember loving to be in her presence and arranging all of her glass figurines and miniature Limoges shoes (a wonderful collection I now own). B R I D A L

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Mama Crowley loved family, loved to travel and always looked stylish. She believed in living life fully and with passion...and that you might as well look beautiful while you’re doing it! I learned so much from her, and I know that she shaped the woman I am today. Although we lost her almost 30 years ago, I’ve felt her presence throughout my life, never more so than on my wedding day. My lovely grandmother Joan is convinced that her mother (Mama Crowley) sent me Joe. He is everything I could have asked for in a life partner, and exactly who my great-grandmother would have chosen for me. The weather on the morning of June 9th was a little iffy, so my hairstylist (of all people) suggested that I leave rosary beads facing outside to guarantee sunshine. It just so happens that I had packed Mama Crowley’s rosary beads at the last minute, so my mother dutifully hung them from the balcony of my hotel room. The weather continued to be touch-and-go for a while, but the minute I took my first step down the aisle, Mama cleared the skies and the weather stayed gorgeous for the remainder of the day. (I should mention that Mama was a novice nun before she married, so I’m sure she had some pull…) Not only did Mama’s rosary beads work their magic on my big day, but I also wore her gold and pearl drop earrings and her pearl and sapphire gold bracelet, connecting me physically, emotionally and spiritually to this amazing lady. I look forward to passing on the love, traditions and family heirlooms to my future family. S E C T I O N


DESIGNER PROFILE

THE PRINCE OF CHARMS

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ith his distinguished good looks and old-world charm, it’s little wonder that Aaron Basha has established himself as a major player in the world of fine jewelry. Under his impassioned leadership, the Aaron Basha collection has flourished, appealing to people across the globe. His charm, wit, charisma, sophistication, personal style and vision have helped propel the brand from New York to Europe to Dubai and beyond. Basha is most famous for his signature collection baby shoe charms, worn by celebrities, in-the-know mothers and adoring grandmothers the world over. Since 1990, he has designed these fine jewelry charms, charm bracelets and charm necklaces in addition to his trendsetting collection of evil eyes— the ancient talisman of good luck—as well as an exquisite collection of unforgettable, one-of-a-kind couture pieces. The Aaron Basha collections are diverse, but each piece is infused with wit and whimsy and is designed to celebrate life, love and good fortune. Basha prides himself on seeking out the joy in life. Whether in the everyday or in life’s most celebrated moments, his personal style reflects his outlook. He believes in fanciful, whimsical, mystical elegance. “To me, the point of dressing with style is about effortless pleasure and pure delight. From our signature baby shoe charms to our evil eye collection to our array of shirt studs and cuff links, we make dressing well an act of expressing whimsy and enjoyment. We are in the business of elegance, but we are also in the business of fun.

“What is life, without marking life’s milestones?” he asks. “Moments of celebration come and go, but the charms worn by our customers serve as daily remembrances of life’s most precious moments. Our charms create a visual biography signifying the touchstones along life’s path. They are woven into the fabric of life, given by mothers and fathers to daughters, husbands to wives, and children to their parents. Children grow up knowing which charm is ‘theirs’ and thus form a lifelong bond with our brand. The charms become loving representations that are cherished and handed down from generation to generation.” Born in 1930 to parents both in the jewelry business, Basha had an appreciation for fine metals and precious gems in his blood. Trained and certified as a master diamond cutter by age 16, it was evident that he had inherited the family gift. This gift, along with his passion for travel, adventure and seeking new experiences across the globe, would shape his future. In the 1970s, Basha opened his first boutique in Canada, and in the ’80s, he opened another in London’s tony Mayfair district. But wherever he roamed, one thing remained constant: his love of family and his appreciation of life’s most precious moments. To celebrate the birth of his first grandchild, Basha crafted a stunning baby shoe of gold and diamonds for his wife to wear as a charm. And so the iconic Aaron Basha baby shoe charm was born. “I am most happy,” Basha reveals, “when I can help people find the perfect piece to express what is in their hearts.”

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AARON BASHA HAS MARRIED HIS PASSION FOR THE ART OF WHIMSY WITH HIS LOVE OF FAMILY, RESULTING IN A COLLECTION THAT CELEBRATES LIFE.


INTERIORS

HEAVY METALS

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urniture designer Sylvan Fiss had a wonderfully whimsical idea while watching a show about gemstones on the Discovery Channel. Inspired by the other-worldly geometric forms, the Indonesia-based designer conceived his innovative Popova writing desk in the shape of a meteor-sized gem. So impressed was he with the result, Fiss also translated the radiant design (with an $8,600 price tag to match) into a coordinating metallic Popova coffee table. Both pieces are now part of the collection for Scala Luxury, the Los Angeles-based dealer of upscale home furnishings. Lorin Marsh was thinking less about gemstones than where to store them when he came up with the company’s new Jewel Box ottoman, formed in the shape of...you guessed it...a jewel box, upholstered in metallic gold with polished nickel trim. Then there’s designer Gary Hutton’s shapely

bronze and stainless steel Facet and Grand Facet cocktail tables, small enough to hold a single cocktail and named for the thousands of multifaceted Swarovski crystals that cover the surface. “I found a woman who worked for handbag designer Judith Lieber, who sets those stones—7,000 in all—one at a time with a pair of tweezers,” says the San Francisco-based Hutton, who works exclusively in stainless steel and bronze. The tables range from $4,200 to $14,000. Much like Dutch designer Marcel Wanders’ idea a few years back to turn a hulk of plastic into colorful Stone barstools cut like chunks of tourmaline,

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Clockwise from top left: Scala Luxury Truffle Trunk table; Christopher Guy Feather mirror; Ktribe by Philippe Starck metal table lamp; Lorin Marsh Diamond credenza

NOLET’S GIN

COOL METALLIC FINISHES ADD WARMTH TO ANY HOME. BY WILLIAM KISSEL


topaz and diamonds, furniture makers are now turning heavy metals— sterling silver, gold, nickel, bronze and even wrought iron and stainless steel—into their own beautiful little jewels for the home. In particular, brooches on steroids seem to be a compelling source of inspiration to today’s metal workers. That would no doubt please the late designer Robert Hutchinson, who often equated mirrors with brooches and freely complimented those who translated them well. Today the “brooch effect” can be found on everything from mirrors and headboards to table lamps. ake for example the work of luxury furniture maker Christopher Guy, who had French designer Coco Chanel in mind when he presented his new Mademoiselle collection of furnishings and accessories, inspired by the Paris apartment of the influential couturier. Among the offering straight from the designer’s jewelry box was a gold and black balled mirror resembling a strand of Chanel’s famous pearls, another gold metal feather-framed mirror, reminiscent of a brooch or hat pin, and an upholstered chair with a golden fan-shaped back. “The fan-back chair is Coco’s successor’s trademark accessory,” says the designer, referring to the fan-waving Karl Lagerfeld, who has reigned over the house of Chanel since 1983. Heather Palmer was clearly channeling the work of another French designer, jewelry maker Jean Schlumberger, when the San Francisco-based glass artist conceived her $3,800 blue Sea Fan ceiling light fixture for Bespoke Global, the Southampton, New York atelier fostering the designs of artisan craftsmen from around the world. Looking at the polished nickel and glittering coral-shaped glass sconce, it’s easy to imagine Palmer poring over the early 20th-century French jewelry designer’s colorful pins and brooches in an effort to capture their translucent forms and intricate detailing. Meanwhile, if you didn’t know otherwise, you might swear Scala Luxury’s nickelplated brass Jewel Specimen mirror with its starburst shape and colorful goatskin panels set to look like precious gems was a jeweled family heirloom passed down through the generations. “I was always fascinated by the cuts of gemstones, the framing and mounting around jewels and the color coordination,” says designer Sylvan Fiss, who translated the mirror after a piece of jewelry he gifted to his wife. “I used the gemstone cut on several furniture

T

From top: John Lyle Turtle table; Gary Hutton A-5 cube tables; Christopher Guy Fan chair pieces that I made for Scala Luxury, but for the Jewel Specimen mirror I had to integrate some colors and didn’t want to deal with any jewels or stones. Instead I used goatskin that I dyed in different colors, such as eggplant, charcoal gray, celadon green and lapis blue, and finished it in a high gloss polished finish, which really created a fascinating look.” Additional pieces in the collection include the Truffle Trunk gold leaf side table, which looks more like a sand-cast gold bracelet than a functional cocktail table, and the Hedge Stone table, made of meteor-sized brass. “I’ve always said there are only two kinds of people in the world: those who love sparkly things and those who won’t admit it,” says San Francisco-based designer Gary Hutton, whose jewel-like designs include a stainless steel or bronze Ver mirror featuring spikes of Swarovski pearls fanning out like a sunburst. “It’s a take on Dutch painter Johannes Vermeer’s painting Girl with a Pearl Earring,” he says. Look closely at that home you call your jewel box, adds Hutton. These days it might actually be furnished like one. Of course, there was a time when most people equated metal designs with the stark cold interiors of the 1970s, or with the modern trappings of a museum. But the chill factor is only an illusion, most designers agree. Rather than mere shiny distractions, theses pieces actually reflect the warmth of the other furnishings that surround them. “With my new Inox New York collection I’ve moved into mirror-polished stainless steel that has an immaculate reflection,” explains New York designer John Lyle, who works exclusively in metal. Among his new designs are statuesque Klismos chairs, sinuous bar stools and shapely tables wax-cast like jewelry in bronze, nickel and even 24-karat gold. “The reason these pieces aren’t cold is because they reflect that Persian or Turkish rug and those coral-colored walls. They sort of act as a chameleon in the room,” says Lyle, whose Adelphi mirror for Inox New York is akin to a Baroque earring. But this Baroque mirror is hardly a sign of bad luck; rather, it’s a beautiful good luck charm. Rather than stand out, it accentuates a room just as a piece of jewelry might do to an outfit. Something chemical also happens when metal designs accent a room. “Sparkle is really nothing more than the reflection of light, and human beings respond dramatically to light,” says designer Gary Hutton. “The love of things that sparkle is just hotwired into our DNA.”

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FOOD

FIRST-GENERATION FAME CHEF GEORGE MENDES IS A NATIONAL TREASURE. BY SHIRA LEVINE

What’s your ideal meal? I love my beef. At Keens Steakhouse, I dig into a nice porterhouse, a Caesar

salad, some oysters and wine. A good steak on my day off helps me feel nourished and relaxed. You’ve traveled a lot during your career. Besides New York’s, what other food scenes do you take inspiration from? My family roots in Portugal are a huge influence. I go twice a year and love visiting the local cafés, beer bars and gastropubs. Everything is so simply prepared and fresh. Also, Paris, the south of France, Barcelona and San Sebastian are important to me. That’s where I spent my early years learning. What Canada and Denmark are doing with the foraging movement is another great influence. It’s nothing extremely new though, just a return to the basics. It’s funny that people today see eating locally as a trend. Everything is in season somewhere in the world. It’s my responsibility as a chef to utilize what’s nearby, support farmers, focus on what is sustainable for the area and care about our oceans. It’s a responsibility I take seriously. How do your Portuguese roots shape your sensibility as a chef? My parents are immigrants and farmed their own food. They continued a lot of those values at our home in Connecticut. We had a garden that I’d help my dad prepare each season. It was a way of life for us. Our kitchen table was especially influenced in the spring and summer months because of that garden. It taught me the importance of knowing where my food came from. The [Portuguese] culture, the homey rustic feel of eating at home during the holidays, and the feasts my family would prepare are my strongest memories. Christmas, New Year’s Eve and Thanksgiving were always big lavish feasts that my mom and aunt would spent days preparing for.

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JERRY ERRICO

I

f you watch Bravo’s cooking shows, Chef George Mendes might be a familiar face. He appeared on the third season of Top Chef Masters, which won him many foodie fans of the (mostly) female variety. But sex appeal isn’t the only dish Mendes serves up. For this first-generation American born to Portuguese parents, cooking has always been about the fresh, the local, the in-season, the simple: in other words, the most delicious foods nature has to offer. Growing up in Danbury, Connecticut, Mendes was always surrounded by good food. He’d help his mother and aunt in the kitchen and work in the garden out back with his father. As a result, Mendes enjoys working with his hands. It was either a career in interior design and architecture, or working as a chef. His decision to cook came ultimately, he says, “because I constantly have to be in motion and doing something; I couldn’t be stuck in an office.” A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, he worked under culinary legends Alain Ducasse and David Bouley and refined his palate in France, Spain, San Francisco and D.C. at a number of Michelin-starred hotspots. In 2009, he finally went solo to open Aldea in New York City. The rustic yet classic restaurant featuring Spanish, French and Portuguese influences has already scored a Michelin star of its own, been deemed one of the country’s 10 best new restaurants by GQ’s Alan Richman, and helped Mendes become a finalist for the James Beard Foundation’s Best Chef New York Award. Accent managed to catch Mendes in a rare free moment to chat about his impressive accomplishments.


How do you describe the cuisine at Aldea? I operate with my history in mind: the Portuguese were seafarers and explorers, discovering new lands. We brought spices and new flavors that influenced a lot of menus. Aldea is Portuguese-inspired with global influences. Early on, Portugal had colonies throughout the world, so you can see flavors from Brazil, Japan and India in my menu. You can also see my French training in there. All of my exploring has helped define my style. What is your presentation style? Minimalist. I like to focus on the color of food. My favorite time of year is spring, where all these edible colors pop out naturally. I’m not one to manipulate. I love the bounty of what comes in during those months. And maybe it’s my Mediterranean roots, but I love to enjoy my meals in the sun.

Top Chef really give food the opportunity to shine. I love to be in my restaurant, but it was a great platform for exposure. Would you do TV again? I would, if it were the right fit. I’d love an educational role where I teach the public about Portuguese cuisine, about growing your own food and eating as local as possible. I don’t want to be formed into a character. Do you have a cookbook in the works? It’s scheduled for spring 2014. It will be about Aldea, and be an introduction to Portuguese cuisine for the home cook. It will also include the story of my life and, of course, some great recipes.

FROM GEORGE MENDES’ KITCHEN

I know the term ‘fusion’ is kind of overused... I hate the word fusion. Some chefs will mismatch cuisines just to be creative, but they don’t necessarily know what they’re doing in terms of pairing flavors. You should know your history and combine things because they work. You don’t just pair because you want to create some new, unheard-of style. These fusion chefs overlook history and ancestry. True cooking comes from your heart, your ancestry, what was in your home. What are some exciting things on your menu right now? We’re using a lot of ramps, wild leeks, wild onions and wildflowers. We’re working with a forager, Evan Strusinski, who is bringing in things from the wild—herbs and plants not readily available from our regular sources. We’re always looking for new ingredients. We’re using chickweed, different kinds of mints and wintergreens, fiddlehead ferns, ramps and all kinds of exciting stuff in the mushroom category. If you’ve never eaten at Aldea, try the sea urchin toast; it’s refined and elevated. Or anything with shrimp, my duck rice... I’d say they all encompass rustic refinement. That’s a lot to introduce to the average (potentially not-soadventurous) eater! It’s about coming across what grows naturally in the woods that people don’t know they can eat. The forager has been providing us with things that I didn't know existed! For winter we’ll work with more robust, heartier flavors. Warm foods with an elevated level of refinement. Look for the tripe stew with root vegetables and quail eggs. Plus, winter means blue truffle season. Are there plans to open a second restaurant? We have plans but there is no forecast. When the right place comes along, then it’s the right time. We need a place that allows our vision to flourish, so it could take another 18 months to come together. You were on Top Chef Masters, so you’ve got an insider’s perspective on the reality show business. What are your thoughts about these cooking shows? I’m really split on it. Food TV can have a great impact on business, but it really depends on the chef’s desires. Does he want to be on TV, or does he want to be in his restaurant? Top Chef Masters was difficult, but it was a fantastic experience. Some of the food shows are just about entertainment; they pretty much forget the food. But Tom Colicchio and

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Eggs Baked with Peas, Linguiça and Bacon extra-virgin olive oil, as needed 11/2 ounces slab bacon cut into 1/2-inch slices, then into 1/4-inch batons 1/ 2

white Spanish onion, finely diced

3

garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1

fresh California bay leaf, notches torn every 1/2 inch

1

pinch crushed red chile flakes

3

tbsp. strained tomatoes

2

ounces linguiça, cut into 1/2-inch dice

1/ 4

ounce chorizo, casing removed and thinly sliced

2

cups frozen petit peas kosher salt to taste

4

large eggs

1/ 2

cup parsley leaves, chopped

fresh lemon juice, to taste Preheat oven to 350°F. Heat a 4-quart cocotte over medium heat. Add just enough olive oil to coat the bottom, then add the bacon. Cook, stirring

occasionally, until the fat is rendered and the bacon lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Transfer the bacon to a dish. Add the onion, garlic, bay leaf and chile flakes to the cocotte and cook, stirring, until tender but not browned, about 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes and 1 teaspoon olive oil and cook, stirring and scraping down the sides of the pan, for 4 minutes. The tomatoes should be sizzling steadily. Stir in the linguiça, chorizo, reserved bacon and 1 teaspoon olive oil. Cook, stirring occasionally, until heated through, about 2 minutes. Stir in the peas and season to taste with salt. Make 4 little nests for the eggs in the mixture, spacing them a few inches apart. Carefully break an egg into each nest, making sure each egg is nestled in the stew and flush with the top. Transfer to the oven and bake until the egg whites are set but the yolks are still runny, about 8 minutes. Top with the parsley and season to taste with lemon juice. Serve immediately. Serves 4.


TRAVEL

IT’S ABOUT TIME

AT FLORENCE’S HOTEL L’OROLOGIO, THE MAGIC IS IN THE DETAILS. BY STU NIFOUSSI

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o the casual tourist, the Hotel L’Orologio is a luxurious boutique inn overlooking Florence’s famed Piazza Santa Maria Novella, with a theme relating to clocks and watches. But to those who share owner Sandro Fratini’s passion for horology (the measurement of time), the hotel is a treasure trove of memorabilia and unique design, with discoveries around every corner. Fratini owns the small upscale hotel chain WTB (which stands for Why the Best?) with six hotels in Florence; he is also chairman of Super Rifle S.p.A, the parent company of Rifle jeans. A lifelong collector of vintage watches, he owns more than two thousand, mainly from his three favorite

For true watch aficionados, however, the real excitement is found on the ground floor, within rooms off the lobby. Claudio Delli, general manager of WTB Hotels, showed off the incredible details waiting to be discovered by those who choose to look more closely. Among them: the exclusive mirrors designed in the style of Rolex watch bands, and the sundial etched into the floor beside a reflecting pool that appears to be illuminated by stellini, tiny stars in the ceiling above. Then there are the door handles in the shape of Rolex watch hands (sometimes called Mercedes because they’re similar to the Mercedes logo), and the hand-painted reproductions of watch

brands: Rolex, Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe. At L’Orologio, Fratini has been able to combine his affinity for fine watches with his talent for consumer marketing, creating a singular and fascinating hotel experience. Each room at Hotel L’Orologio is identified in two ways: with a room number, as you might expect, and also with a name corresponding to a watch owned by Signore Fratini. Each floor is devoted to a particular brand: the first to Vacheron Constantin, the second to Rolex, and the top two floors to Patek Philippe. Within each room are photos or artwork related to its namesake watch.

faces that decorate the floor in the smoking lounge beside Il Bar de L’O. But the pieces de resistance were the elegant busts of Messieurs Patek and Philippe that grace the pedestals in the sitting area. One could spend hours cataloging the little touches that make this hotel unique in the world. WTB plans to roll out L’Orologio as their premier nameplate to other “artistic” cities in Italy, with new hotels planned for Venice and Rome. The company also markets L’Orologio products including scarves, alligator sneakers and other items, with an eye toward building L’Orologio into an internationally recognized brand.

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NOLET’S GIN

ONE COULD SPEND HOURS CATALOGING THE LITTLE TOUCHES THAT MAKE THIS HOTEL UNIQUE IN THE WORLD.


“WE KNOW IT’S NOT HOW MANY CARS WE SELL BUT HOW MANY CUSTOMERS KEEP COMING BACK.”

-- FLETCHER JONES, JR.

2013 SL550 ROADSTER

Experience The Fletcher Jones Difference.

FLETCHER JONES MOTORCARS N

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330 0 Jamb o r e e Road • w w w. f j m e r c e d e s . c o m

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PerfectGems

EXPLORE THE LITTLE LUXURIES THE WORLD HAS TO OFFER.

CHRIS LEE

SLH

BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

UPSTAGED

Renée Fleming, the Simon Bolivar Symphony Orchestra of Venezuela, and the New York Pops are just a few of the artists performing at Carnegie Hall this season. You could buy tickets, but to really be involved in these remarkable occasions, join the Patrons. You’ll have access to rehearsals and meet-the-artist cocktail parties, a ticket concierge to arrange for special seating requests, and the very glamorous Opening Night Gala. In addition, Patrons are offered one of the most fascinating insider experiences in New York City: while telling stories and sharing his extraordinary knowledge, Carnegie Hall archivist Gino Francesconi escorts Patrons on a private tour up, down and all around, including visits to the Maestros’ Suite and other fascinating parts of the historic hall. Chances are this excursion will end on a high note.

TRUFFLE TIME!

Every autumn, New York’s famed SD26 offers white truffles gathered in the Piedmont region of Italy. To celebrate the arrival of these delicacies, the restaurant presents a special menu (through December). Marisa May, who owns and runs SD26 with her father, Tony May, has a favorite among the elaborate dishes: uovo in raviolo con burro tartufato. Created by Nino Bergese (personal chef to the last king of Italy) and now prepared by SD26 chef Matteo Bergamini, a single, large raviolo is stuffed with a barely cooked egg whose yolk spills forth into a sauce of brown butter, all under a mantle of white truffles. SD26’s wine director, Michael Doctor, pairs this treat with a Barolo, La Corda della Briccolina, Batasiolo 1995. Ms. May ha gusto bella.

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LAGERFELD’S ODYSSEY

It’s hard to imagine Monte Carlo’s belle epoch Hotel Metropole being any more stylish. A gathering place for the social and chic since 1886, the Metropole has lavish guest rooms, a comfortable bar with outstanding wines, and a concierge who can arrange pretty much anything, from racecar driving to co-piloting a fighter jet. However, the Metropole is adding additional opulence. Designer Karl Lagerfeld has recently revamped the outdoor spaces— including the pool, terrace and gardens—and even added a new Joel Robuchon restaurant (this one has a Mediterranean-influenced menu). One of Lagerfeld’s most impressive innovations is a fresco-style installation of 15 imposing glass panels portraying Ulysses’ journey.

WEAVING PAST AND PRESENT

ACTIVE ISLAND

Vojtech Blau is the only business in the United States dedicated exclusively to tapestries. By appointment only, clients can discover some of the world’s most exquisite examples of woven art. Director Simona Blau, a brilliant historian and art collector, started with creations from the 16th through 18th centuries and has recently added works though the mid-20th century. Among the marvelous pieces displayed on the walls of her attractive showroom are Flemish and Bruges tapestries along with creations by Alexander Calder, whose interest in tapestry led him to partner directly with Aubusson weavers, and Sonia Delaunay, one of the greatest translators of a modernist consideration of color and form to the material and texture of tapestry. Brilliant combinations of ancient skill and contemporary art.

Ah, winter vacation. You might locate a secluded beach and stretch out in the sun. Or, you could sail over to the Bitter End Yacht Club on Virgin Gorda, where there’s lots to do. Take to the water: Bitter End’s fleet has over 100 vessels, including sailboats, catamarans, kayaks, paddleboats and motorboats. Shape up: Fitness guru Andrea Metcalf offers one-onone training. Give a party: Bitter End will bring in a major musical act (The Beach Boys and Michael McDonald have been booked in the past). Indulge: Winston’s Bakery is known around the world for its breads, pastries and luscious desserts. And if you really just want to chill: Bitter End has three white sand beaches where you can simply sit.

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CROSSWORD

A Fine Jewelry Puzzle

Dazzle & Shine ACROSS 1. This cut has 56 facets and is used on most diamonds today, since it maximizes reflected light (a stone’s natural fire). 2. Ring that features an insignia, monogram, coat of arms, or family crest 4. Method of applying enamel to metal in which the design is first outlined on the metal surface using a metal wire. The space between the wires is then filled with enamel and fired to a glossy sheen. 5. From the French for “lemon,” a rare yellow type of quartz, a semi-precious stone that ranges in color from pale yellow to orange to golden brown 7. Design style (also known as Belle Epoque) popularized during the reign of Edward VII of England (1901-1910), describing jewelry that is delicate and elegant, often featuring bows, diamonds and filigree 8. A stone (usually a diamond) that has been cut into a long, rectangular shape; “stick” or “rod” in French 10. One of the flat surfaces of a cut gemstone or glass 13. Often referred to as the finest of the precious metals 15. Pearls produced by the large oyster Pinctada maxima in white, silver and gold. These tend to be the largest, rarest and most expensive pearls, coveted for their soft glow and large size. 16. A trinket or piece of jewelry thought to be a protection against evil 18. A mineral, a type of chrysoberyl, which appears to be different colors depending on whether it is viewed in natural or artificial light 21. Gemstone with a rounded, domed surface with no facets; a carbuncle 22. Ring set with a single stone

DOWN 1. The amount of white light that reflects through or from the surface of a gemstone 3. A yellow-green variety of olivine used as a gem; the birthstone for August 6. Intricate metalwork that is often open to the back, frequently flowery with many curves and spirals 9. Form of the mineral quartz, most popular in purple, but can range in color from pale lavender to a deep, reddish purple, to green;

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birthstone for February 11. Popularized during the Victorian era, carvings traditionally done with shell or stone. Popular motifs include a silhouette, bust, or florals, carved in relief with a contrasting color background. 12. Design style popular from 1895 through World War I, characterized by curves, naturalistic designs and sensual art 13. An organic gem grown within oysters and a few other mollusks, formed after a foreign object (like a tiny stone) has made its way into the mollusk’s shell 14. Dark colored pearls produced by the large, black-lipped pearl oyster, a mollusk found in the tropical Indo-Pacific Ocean; also called black pearls

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15. Popularized in the Edwardian era, a very long necklace that showcases either a tassel or pendant. Traditional styles used rope or metal fashioned to look like rope. 17. Japanese word meaning “something as tiny as you can imagine,” such as a grain of sand. Used originally to describe very small pearls, it’s now used to refer to all very small nacre baroque pearls. 19. Translucent fossilized tree resin that comes in many colors, including yellow. Rubbing this gem produces static electricity. 20. A white precious metal that’s extremely expensive and is often used to plate precious and base metals, giving jewelry a hard, platinum-like sheen


T H E O R I G I N ATO R O F C U LT U R E D P E A R L S . S I N C E 1 8 9 3 .


TRADITIONAL JEWELERS ACCENT THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS

FALL/WINTER 2012


Traditional Jewelers