OYSTER PERPETUAL DATEJUST L ADY 31
oyster perpetual and datejust are trademarks.
Dear Friends, As we celebrate the rites of spring, we reﬂect on one of the most challenging winter weather seasons in our collective memory. We, like you, appreciated the warmth of family and friends to carry us through the long winter months. We took comfort in the support that we were able to give to a multitude of worthwhile causes in 2013. Through our annual coat drive, we were able to provide warmth to over 2,500 less fortunate metro Detroiters for the 22nd year. In this issue of Accent, we take the opportunity to introduce you to many members of the Tapper’s Diamonds and Fine Jewelry family. Throughout our events pages (starting on page 5), we feature Tapper’s associates sharing memorable events and experiences with you, our valued customers. In our Celebration of Generations section (starting on page 27), we are happy to feature two of our colleagues along with multiple generations of mothers and daughters in their families, as well as compare the style differences between two of the father-son mixes within our own family. Six bright and talented high school graduates comprise our class of 2014. The parents of these young men and women are all part of our extended Tapper’s family. In what we’re dubbing “the season of the customer,” we continue to commit ourselves to bringing you the highest level of customer service. In this issue, we’re highlighting many of the after-sales services that we are so proud to offer, starting on page 53. We’re extremely proud of the selection of ﬁne watches and jewelry that we are presenting this season. Refer to our Best Bets on pages 8 and 9 for great Mother’s Day gift ideas. Emerald City Designs set the stage for our feature, Garden Party. View the season’s top jewelry trends complemented by their beautiful spring ﬂorals starting on page 21. Our Rock Her World™ diamond collection expands as we offer stunning new styles to the line. The 81-facet Rock Her World™ is our exclusive signature diamond. With the expansion of the collection, everyone can now own this truly beautiful diamond. The new styles can be seen on pages 18 and 19. Our Marlee’s by Tapper’s store continues to ﬂourish at the Twelve Oaks mall. We were thrilled to introduce shop-in-shop boutiques at both our West Bloomﬁeld and Somerset locations last fall. Stylists from each of the locations show us their spring picks on pages 14 and 15.
Marleesstyle.com now offers the convenience of shopping online, while our tappers.com site continues to offer a seamless shopping experience for our customers. Read more about both sites on page 16. We hope that you enjoy this issue of Accent. We appreciate your continued loyalty and hope you will visit us in the upcoming months to let us help you celebrate all of your special moments. Sincere regards, The Tapper Family
CONTENTS IN MEMORIAM
DIAMONDS & FINE JEWELRY
We are sad to share with you the loss of our beloved team member Annette Korte. She passed away in early March due to complications from a recent illness. Annette helped us to open our Somerset Collection store in 2010 and was highly respected and admired by all of her co-workers and customers. She is survived by her husband Tim and her children Kelli and Josh. Her family remains in our thoughts and prayers. We dedicate this issue to her memory.
WEST BLOOMFIELD ORCHARD MALL 6337 ORCHARD LAKE ROAD WEST BLOOMFIELD, MI 48322 PHONE: (248) 932-7700 FAX: (248) 932-7717 NOVI TWELVE OAKS MALL 27716 NOVI ROAD NOVI, MI 48377 PHONE: (248) 465-1800 FAX: (248) 465-1818 TROY SOMERSET COLLECTION NORTH 2800 WEST BIG BEAVER TROY, MI 48084 PHONE: (248) 649-2000 FAX: (248) 649-5076 TAPPERS.COM CEO HOWARD TAPPER PRESIDENT MARK TAPPER VICE PRESIDENTS STEVEN TAPPER MARLA TAPPER YOUNG
C H I E F O P E R AT I N G O F F I C E R JEFFREY GARDEN
1 Welcome Letter
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER ROBERT HUTTER
5 Life of the Party
DIRECTOR OF MARKETING ANN DUKE
8 Perfect Gifts
MEDIA AND EVENTS MANAGER TRACIE VOLETTI
10 Trends: Simply Modern
WATCHES A C C E N T M A G A Z I N E S P E C I A L S E C T I O N S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 01 4
14 Marlee’s Spring Trends 16 Online and on the Go 18 Rock Her World Diamonds
S TA F F P H O T O G R A P H E R PAUL PRIMEAU
PUBLISHER STU NIFOUSSI
21 Garden Party
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
27 A Celebration of Generations
C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R HANS GSCHLIESSER
GETTY 1 PASIEKA
35 From the Runways
VISUAL MERCHANDISING SPECIALIST PATTI TAPPER
P U B L I S H E D B Y T H E B J I FA S H I O N G R O U P
20 Ring Selfies
32 Class of 2014
D I G I TA L S P E C I A L I S T KELLY KAMINSKI
MANAGING EDITOR JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
39 David Yurman: 30 Years of Cable
40 Collecting: Haute History
44 Watch Advisor
42 Style: All Mixed Up
46 Spotlight: Hot Watches
52 Fashion: Here Comes the Sun 53 Behind the Scenes Services
48 Watchmaking: Hooked on Classics
56 Pantone Fashion Color Report
50 Profile: Shinola
ON THE COVER: PENNY PREVILLE 18K YELLOW GOLD ROSE-CUT AQUAMARINE AND DIAMOND PENDANT, $2,865 ON BEZEL-SET DIAMOND CHAIN, $1,495. RING, $3,995. PENNY PREVILLE 18K YELLOW GOLD MOONSTONE, AQUAMARINE AND DIAMOND EARRINGS, $4,995. PENNY PREVILLE 18K YELLOW GOLD AND DIAMOND BANGLE CUFF, $10,990.
PROJECT MANAGER LISA MONTEMORRA DESIGNERS CYNTHIA LUCERO, JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI PRODUCTION MANAGER PEG EADIE PRESIDENT AND CEO BRITTON JONES CHAIRMAN AND COO MAC BRIGHTON Prices are subject to change without notice and may vary depending on size, quality and availability. Jewelry has been enlarged to show detail. Due to the fluctuating prices of diamonds, gold and platinum, prices are subject to change. While we have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information in this magazine, we are not responsible for errors or omissions. Copyright 2014. Accent® is published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212-686-4412 Fax: 212-686-6821; All Rights Reserved. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers’ claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 12, Issue 1. Accent® is a trademark of Business Journals, Inc. registered in the U.S. Patent and Trademark office. Printed In The U.S.A. WHILE EVERY EFFORT HAS BEEN MADE TO ENSURE THE ACCURACY OF PRICING AND PRODUCT DESCRIPTIONS, PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE AND QUANTITIES MAY BE LIMITED.
P OIS MOI COLLECTION
T H E O R I G I N ATO R O F C U LT U R E D P E A R L S . S I N C E 1 8 9 3 .
Life of the Party Whether it’s at one of our three metro Detroit locations, a charity fundraiser or a public event, Tapper’s proudly engages with our community on a daily basis.
2 The following pages feature just a sampling of what we’ve been up to. Special thanks to all of the talented designers that have visited us over the last few months, as well as the clients that have joined us for these special gatherings. A very special thank you to Tapper’s 2013 Jewelry Stars: Rhonda Walker, Theresa Saputo, Kathy Broock-Ballard, Dr. Charles Boyd, Karen Buscemi, Michael Melﬁ, Dr. Joel Kahn, Jeffrey and Amanda Feldmann, Donna Yost, David McKnight and Michelle Mio. We salute this impressive group of metro Detroit stylemakers.
1. Alla Papazian, Rhonda Walker, Pearl Gordon. 2. Theresa Saputo, Kathy Broock-Ballard. 3. Michael Melﬁ, Boswell. 4. Mark Tapper, Amanda and Jeffrey Feldmann, Howard Tapper. 5. Steven Tapper, Mark Tapper, Howard Tapper, Dr. Joel Kahn. 6. Dr. Charles Boyd, Rhonda Walker, Pearl Gordon. 7. Karen Buscemi, Kelly Kaminski.
events MARCO BICEGO TRUNK SHOW AT PRIME 29
JOHN HARDY ‘STYLE OUT’ EVENT
Clockwise from top left: Debby Isaacs, Rick and Karen Levin. Susie Meklir, Gail Wolin, Gary Meklir. Bernadette Essahaki, Widad Paulus, Margarite Paulus, Muna Paulus. Lacey Parker, Lorraine Beesley.
ROBERTO COIN TRUNK SHOW AT PRIME 29 Clockwise from top left: Sandor Holzer, Linda Berman, Jackie Scott. Sharon Tucker getting an express manicure. John Hardy bohemian chic.
HOUR DETROIT TOP DOCS AT GM HERITAGE CENTER
Clockwise from top left: Dr. Warren Robinson, Jeff Silagy, Steven Tapper. Debby Isaacs, Marlo Shaevsky. Roberto Coin display.
NAIAS GALLERY EVENT AT MGM CASINO
Clockwise from top: Guests visit the Tapper’s booth. Steve Smith, Kelly Kaminski, Bob McMenomy, Ann Duke, Bob Hutter. Alla Papazian, Ann Duke.
From left: Rachel Smith, Jaclyn Schultz. Guests mingling near the Tapper’s display.
MIKIMOTO TRUNK SHOW AT MON JIN LAU
OMEGA WATCHMAKER’S DINNER AT PRIME 29
Clockwise from top: Mikimoto display. Gail Wolin, Pat Cassano, Jessica Cline, Debby Isaacs. Scott Salzeider, Paul Cassano, Steven Tapper, Mark Tapper.
PENNY PREVILLE ANNIVERSARY EVENT
Clockwise from top left: Jay Siskin, Penny Preville, Susan Tapper, Howard Tapper. Trayce Fenton, Penny Preville, Deanna Kleiman. Rosemary Rolak, Nicole Villani, Penny Preville, Bonnie Laurens.
DETROIT TIGERS LEAD OFF PARTY
From top: Mark and Ginny Zefﬁro, Kim Harabedian. Rebecca Zhang. Guests working on their watches. Mike Stillman, Zachary Stillman, Steve Smith. Aaron Shepherd, Sandor Holzer, Mike Stillman. Les Stansbury. Rebecca Zhang, Ginny Zefﬁro, Kim Harabedian, Mark Zefﬁro.
From left: Tracie Voletti, Kim Harabedian, Dave Dombrowski, Ann Duke. Max Scherzer, Delano Voletti.
Perfect Gifts for any occasion Stack for Style
An Element of Nature
Gallery sterling silver and stainless steel pavĂŠ diamond bar bracelet, $119.99 to $139.99 each. Available in rose, white and yellow.
John Hardy Bamboo collection in sterling silver. Hoops, $295. Cuff bangle, $795. Ring, $350.
Roberto Coin 18K yellow gold diamond cross necklace, $980. 18K two-tone bezel diamond station necklace, $2,020.
Tiny Treasures Gallery 14K white, yellow or rose gold name plate necklaces, $599 each. Free engraving. Allow four weeks for delivery.
Roberto Coin Tiny Treasures in 18K white gold. Diamond open circle pendant, $640. Cross pendant, $580. Star of David pendant, $580.
Ippolita Stella Lollipop collection sterling silver diamond and multi-colored gemstone pendants, $495 each. Featured in mother of pearl, turquoise and hematite.
Gallery sterling silver white and blue cubic zirconia ďŹ‚ower pendant necklace, $59.99 each. Available in yellow, white and rose (not pictured).
Feminine and Flirty
From Meira T.: 14K white and yellow gold diamond disc necklace, $695. 14K yellow gold diamond bar bracelet, $545. 14K white gold diamond disc bracelet, $990. 14K yellow gold diamond and ruby bracelet, $745.
Monica Rich Kosann in sterling silver. Mother of pearl locket, $935. Star-set locket with white sapphires, $895. Baby feet pendant, free engraving available, $275.
Designer Jewelry for Her
Detroit Tigers cufﬂinks, $60. From John Hardy in sterling silver: Black leather braided bracelet, $595. Black leather braided bracelet, $495. Green leather braided bracelet, $595.
From David Yurman: Sterling silver and diamond teardrop earrings, $950. Crossover Collection sterling silver and 18K yellow gold cuff bangle $1,950. Sterling silver and 18K yellow gold ring, $425. Sterling silver and diamond crossover ring, $650. Sterling silver and diamond cable ring, $350.
Dance Like Your Diamonds Always Give the Classics
The Twinkle Setting is an innovative jewelry concept which allows the diamond to continually move, providing constant sparkle and creating a vision of “dancing” diamonds.
Gallery sterling silver round diamond pendant, $299. Vintage circle diamond pendant, $199.99. Pear diamond pendant, $299.
Mikimoto Akoya 7 mm 18” pearl strand necklace, 7” pearl strand bracelet and pearl studs set in gift box, $3,400.
s the warm-weather seasons begin, jewelry and fashion have both entered into a nouveau modern era. In two words: sleek and uncomplicated. Still glamorous? Definitely—but more panache with purity, if you will. When models strutted down the spring/summer runways wearing peek-a-boo sheers and cut-out mesh (and even see-through skirts) they looked sensual, but seldom overly sexy. “In fashion, there’s a distinct modernization going on, as designers are beginning to rethink luxury,” explains David Wolfe, creative director of international fabric, color and style forecasting agency The Doneger Group in New York City. “It’s super-simplicity—kind of no-fashion fashion. Yet there’s a lot of cutting-edge creativity. For example, clean-cut sharp angles—what I’m calling geometrickery!” What does this mean in terms of jewelry accessorizing? “It’s the minimalist ’90s back in fashion. But not the stark minimal ’90s, when everything was spare—as in no accessories and no jewelry,” explains Vicente Agor, president of the Contemporary Jewelry Design Group. “This time around, sleek apparel is the backdrop for jewelry. That’s key to what makes it now—completely 2014,” he says. “The clean lines of the clothes actually let the jewelry stand out. If you wear something exactly as it was styled in its original decade, then it’s a costume! So it’s very important to pair the new austere-shaded, streamlined clothes with jewelry. Otherwise, you’ll look out-of-date—very yesterday.”
“and jewelry looks very fresh when it’s large in scale.” Nonetheless, says Wolfe, “Because there are many important silhouettes going on simultaneously this season, sometimes dramatic designs are needed while, at other times, what you wear may call for smaller, slimmer items of jewelry worn together for an overall uber effect.”
FASHION’S METALLICS, JEWELRY’S METALS Still, whether the jewels you wear this spring and summer are singularly super-sized or merely appear large when layered, the precious metal itself is a key consideration. To some degree, all the high-gloss futuristic fabrics are a factor. “We’re currently experiencing a fascination with unnatural-looking textiles. Metallic is being worn year-round, not just during the holiday period,” Wolfe says. “All shades of metallic—blue, pink, green—a rich rainbow. But my favorites are the darker muted gold metallics; I call them golden glamour. They’re very complementary to the new jewelry we’re seeing in yellow, rose and darkened rhodium-plated gold, and these mix fabulously with white gold and sterling silver that’s oxidized to look gray or black.”
COLORS . . . AND NON-COLORS
Speaking of black, like last year, it’s the non-color that’s still going strong. LIVING LARGE “Lots of sparkling white, too,” The first thing to remember when Wolfe reminds us. “Remember, wearing the season’s refined, white is now worn year-round. I unfussy clothes is to think big: especially like all the black-andLORRAINE DEPASQUE jewelry with impact is a megawhite clothes because it’s a color trend. And you can do that either combo that gives you a lot of by wearing large statement freedom with jewelry and other pieces or by layering several for a accessories. Beyond black and strong jewelry look. With luxury brands, top-trending categories include white, color runs the gamut, from bold and bright to darks to mellow yellow, knuckle rings and cocktail rings, power pendants and lengthy necklaces, neutral, and nude. And I love that very sophisticated combination of navy long dangle earrings—especially triple-stone drops—and slim bracelets and black, which many major fashion houses have given us. Although this worn in multiples—three minimum, but mostly five—stacked up the arm. Ivanka Trump Metropolis collection layering necklace in 18K yellow gold with diamonds “Geometric and sculptural pieces are very important now,” notes Agor,
Jewelry’s new sophisticated simplicity.
year, you’ll see all shades of blue—light, medium, and dark navy—straight into fall and through the winter. And more monochromatic schemes of mid-tone blues, too.”
ine jewelry has, in fact, led the way when it comes to blues, says lapidary artist and veteran gem dealer Bill Gangi, who sells high-quality colored stones to many leading names in luxury artisanal jewelry. “It’s the number-one gem color every year,” he says. But in the 2014 Spectrum Awards (the annual premier competition for colored gemstone jewelry design sponsored by the American Gem Trade Association), there were notably more indigo, azure and cobalt-colored jewelry entries than in the 2013 contest. Tanzanite, blue sapphire, lapis-lazuli and aquamarine were hard-to-miss standouts—way more popular than in the previous year. You definitely want your jeweler to show you some new designs that highlight any (or all!) of those blue beauties. Other in-vogue blues are iolite, black opal, blue moonstone, labradorite, turquoise, blue chalcedony, blue topaz and blue zircon. “A great color combination is blue with purple,” Wolfe recommends. “In fashion, purple’s been hot for the past four seasons.” Given that the Pantone Color Institute named Radiant Orchid as its 2014 Color of the Year, you can bet that purple passion will continue to heat up throughout the year. “It’s a modern and surprisingly versatile shade,” says Pantone’s executive DAVID WOLFE director, Leatrice Eiseman. (Take note: There’s that word THE DONEGER GROUP modern again!) Eiseman adds that Radiant Orchid is “a captivating, magical, enigmatic purple, inspiring confidence and emanating great joy, love and health. And it encourages expanded creativity and originality.” Looking at the breadth of imaginative new collections from goldsmiths inspired by a spectrum of violet, lavender and eggplant shaded stones—amethyst, alexandrite, sugilite, purple sapphire, kunzite, tourmaline, agate, quartz and lavender spinel—we can’t help but agree! On a final note, it’s hardly coincidental that the Pantone Color of the Year is named after a beautiful, delicate flower. Remember, we’re enjoying an uncluttered, easy-to understand style era right now, one that’s often characterized by natural influences as well as geometrics. Think about it: Both nature and geometry are minimalist at their core. Going forward, well beyond 2014, forecasters are predicting that organic-themed collections will continue to grow, as women (like us!) are captivated by the perfection of the imperfection of asymmetric gemstones. Raw diamonds, baroque pearls, sliced precious and semiprecious color. . . each gem is one-of-a-kind from nature—and completely sophisticated in its simplicity!
This year, you’ll see all shades of blue—light, medium and dark navy—straight into fall and through the winter.’’
From top: Penny Preville earrings in 18K yellow gold with moonstone cabochons and large organic aquamarine bottom drops Ivanka Trump Patras collection blue sapphire ring in 18K white gold with white diamond surround Stephen Webster hoop earrings in 18K rose gold and white diamonds Roberto Coin Haute Couture collection cluster ring in 18K white gold with iolite, blue sapphire and white diamonds Roberto Coin trio of single-row bracelets from the Poi Moi collection, in highpolished 18K rose, white and yellow gold
marlee’s spring trends Dannijo, Made in NYC
IRENE YELDO, Somerset Collection
Stateme necklanc t es
Vita Fede, L.A.
Agas & Tamar Handmade in Israel 6
Dana Rebecca Designs, Chicago 9 8
Halcyon Days, London 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
Dannijo Agnes necklace, $495. Dannijo Ella cuff, $445. Dannijo Miley earrings, $195. Vita Fede Titan bangles, $240-$465. Halcyon Days enamel bangles, $150-$295. Agas & Tamar 14K yellow gold labradorite ring, $750. 7. Agas & Tamar 14K yellow gold rutilated quartz ring, $830. 8. Dana Rebecca Designs Agnes Fortune 14K rose gold and diamond earrings, $1,870. 9. Dana Rebecca Designs Lindsey Elizabeth 14K rose gold black onyx and diamond ﬂower ring, $5,720. 10. Dana Rebecca Designs Lauren Joy 14K white and rose gold diamond cuffs, your choice, $1,980. (also available in yellow gold) 11. Dana Rebecca Designs Jeb Cuff in 14K yellow gold, $1,980. (also available in white and rose gold)
NINA EISENBERG, W. Bloomﬁeld 248.932.7700
Adina Reyter, Marlee’s Hoop Bar 2
Brightly Twisted, Made in Michigan! Poploofr co
Poploofr co 6
Twelve Oaks Mall, Flagship Location
Marlee’s Elements Collection
Twelve Oaks Mall | 248.380.9900 West Bloomﬁeld | 248.932.7700 Somerset Collection | 248.649.2000
248.380.9900 | marleesstyle.com
1. Brightly Twisted hand-dyed one-of-a-kind scarves. 74x48 (fringe trim) $95, 30x86 (tassel fringe) $95, also comes in inﬁnity for $105. 2. Adina Reyter Hoop Bar: Large, $99.99. Medium, $79.99. Small, $59.99. Five shapes available in all three sizes. 3. Marlee’s Elements Collection champagne diamond feather pendant, $299. 4. Marlee’s Elements Collection champagne diamond teardrop earrings, $449. 5. Marlee’s Elements Collection brown sapphire slice and diamond necklace, $299. 6. Marlee’s Elements Collection slice earrings. Pink sapphire and diamond disc drop, $449. Double sapphire slice, $549.
ONLINE AND ON THE GO
Shop online from the convenience of your desktop, tablet or smart phone!
on’t let your busy schedule get in the way of shopping Tapper’s convenient locations. Gift giving is effortless as you browse through exciting spring styles! Experience the unparalleled service you hundreds of value-priced options from our Gallery collection. have come to expect at our stores when you shop at tappers.com. In the Expert Advice section, you can meet our Custom Design team, Imagine browsing over 2,000 items ranging from dazzling engagement learn about our watch and jewelry repair services, and access practical rings and wedding bands to fine Swiss timepieces and fabulous designer information on how to clean and care for all of your timepieces, jewelry jewelry. Whether you are on a desktop, tablet or smartphone, shopping at and gemstones. Tapper’s has never been easier. Have you been thinking about having your fine jewelry appraised? If you’re in the market for an engagement ring, start by exploring our Maybe you’ve considered trading up on an existing piece, or perhaps selling Diamond Buying Guide, where you can learn all about the 4 C’s; Cut, Color, items that you’ve grown tired of in order to make room for new purchases? Clarity and Carat. From there let our loose diamond search help you to Learn about Tapper’s appraisal, estate and gold buying services from the identify the perfect diamond. A large selection of engagement settings can comfort of your home in our Customer Care section. be found within the Engagement shopping section, Also found in the Customer Care section and don’t forget to check out our stunning Rock Her are features and benefits of Tapper’s Platinum Marleesstyle.com is now World diamond ring collection. If you’re stumped Rewards™ program. There you can learn more as to how to figure out her ring size, there’s even about online-only specials for members only. The open for business! a place on the site where you can access tried and many financing options that we provide for our Enjoy the same convenience that you’ve true methods that have helped others with this same customers are clearly outlined in this section as well come to enjoy on tappers.com on the newly quandary in the past. If you would like us to send you for your convenience. launched marleesstyle.com. Let Marlee’s one of our ring sizers, please call us at 248.865.6349 When you visit us online, be sure to sign up and make style work for you by keeping you and we would be happy to do so. create an online account with us so that checking up to date with the newest on-trend fashions Explore jewelry options from the world’s most out is a seamless experience. You can drop hints in jewelry and accessories carefully curated prestigious designers right on our home page. You with one click and be the first to know about from around the world. can buy directly from the site or make purchases upcoming incentives and sales. that can easily be picked up at any of our three
our signature diamond
Tapperâ€™s adds stunning new styles to our exclusive diamond collection. Taking inspiration from the stars and constellations, our designers have carefully crafted a collection that will sparkle as bright as your love. The Rock Her Worldâ„˘ Diamond is not just a reinvention of a classic brilliant-cut diamond, but a re-imagining of how truly beautiful a diamond can be. This meticulously crafted diamond features 81 facets and is the only diamond of its kind in the world. Traditional diamonds contain 58 facets. The marriage of perfect symmetry and an additional 23 facets allows light to travel through the diamond in a way that makes it appear larger and more brilliant, and produces sparkle that is visible from across the room. It has become Tapperâ€™s signature cut and truly encapsulates the essence of a diamond, releasing the inner beauty for all to see.
The Rock Her World™ Diamond collection expands this season with ﬁve new engagement ring settings that beautifully complement this exceptional diamond. We’re excited to welcome Alta, Aurora, Danae, Electra and Juliet to our line. Each setting highlights one of the current trends in engagement rings: a double halo around the center stone, an inﬁnity setting and an out-of-this-world solitaire setting. The most recent addition to the line is a diamond solitaire pendant and matching diamond stud earrings, both set in the Aurora style. The Rock Her World™ collection ﬁts any budget and any style with loose diamonds starting at $749 and engagement rings starting at $1,999.
PENDANT AND STUDS
To learn more about each of the styles, email firstname.lastname@example.org for your complimentary copy of the Rock Her World™ Look Book.
Ring Selﬁes Accent readers show off their new rings, selﬁe style! You’ve ofﬁcially got the ring and now you want to show it off. However, you can’t seem to get that perfect photograph of your ring that’s truly “show off worthy”. We’ve asked our social media team to share with us their tips on capturing that perfect ring selﬁe. Once you’ve mastered these techniques, share your Tapper’s engagement ring photo with us on Facebook, Twitter, or Instagram. Be sure to tag us at @tappersjewelry and use the hashtag #tappersringselﬁes
HODA SALAMEH JASON WINKLER
LINDSAY HALLER TIM STAMPER
Scout an Exciting Backdrop
Get a Manicure
Unleash your inner photo stylist and give that ring a beautiful backdrop. Find an Instagramworthy skyline, latte or patterned pillow to serve as the background for your ring selﬁe. This may call for a vacation somewhere with sandy white beaches and crystal clear waters to get just the right shot.
While it can be hard to predict the exact day your love is planning to get down on one knee, ensuring your nails look their best in an engagement ring selﬁe is a must. If the proposal is a complete surprise and your nails are not looking just right, it might be worthwhile to postpone this all-important photo until after you’ve booked a manicure.
LINDSAY SHOTWELL DAVID LEPORE How to Get it Right You may not be the next Annie Liebovitz, but these few tricks will help make your smartphone shots look crisp and professional. First, avoid the zoom on your camera — physically moving your phone closer to your ring will make a less pixelated photo. If you’re using an iPhone, set up your shot and then tap the screen to focus the lens. If you’re still not happy with what the camera has captured you can alter it with the various editing apps available (we like to use VSCO Cam). Have fun and experiment with the crop, contrast, saturation and sharpness. If all else fails, use a ﬁlter! Instagram’s made it super easy for anyone to take a share-worthy photo.
SIMRAN KAUR GILL BOBBY SANDHU
SOYOUN LEE KEN BARK Experiment with Angles
Lighting is Everything
Your ring has many intricate details and you want to show off the best qualities it has to offer. Experiment with the angle of your shot so you capture the most amazing qualities of your ring. Love the unique setting? Take a photo from the side so everyone can see it! In love with the shape of your stone? Try an overhead shot—but remember, skip the ﬂash!
Just like any other photograph, lighting is very important in the overall photo process. For the best lighting, head outside or sit near a window with quality sunlight. Taking a photo on your smartphone in a dimly lit room is a guaranteed blurry photo. Fluorescents and yellow bulb lights aren’t much better. Trust us—nothing is better than actual sunlight!
There is no better way to celebrate spring than to gather around a table with friends and family in a beautiful garden setting. This seasonâ€™s trends showcase the vibrant colors found in nature. The following pages highlight a selection of our favorites.
Shot on location at Emerald City Designs Photography: Paul Primeau Stylists: Kelly Pants, Ann Duke, Tracie Voletti, Patti Tapper Models: Shayna Tapper, Wynter Jones
Passion for Purple
All pieces featured are from the David Yurman collection. From left: Chatelaine collection sterling silver amethyst drop earrings, $1,950. Waverly collection sterling silver open cuff, $1,200. Cable Classic collection sterling silver amethyst and diamond bangle, $1,900. Albion collection sterling silver amethyst and diamond ring, $2,350. Chatelaine collection sterling silver amethyst and guava quartz earrings, $875. Albion collection sterling silver and guava quartz ring, $1,550. Chatelaine collection sterling silver multi-colored gemstone 36â€? necklace, $2,400. Willow collection sterling silver and diamond ring, $1,750. Willow collection sterling silver and diamond open bangle, $4,200.
From left: Ippolita Rock Candy collection 18K yellow gold turquoise and diamond ring, $2,495. Ippolita Rock Candy collection 18K yellow gold multi-colored gemstone ring, $2,995. Ippolita 18K yellow gold and multi-colored gemstone bangles, $1,495 - $3,895. Ippolita Lollipop collection 18K yellow gold and multicolored gemstone 37â€? station necklace, $3,995. Tapperâ€™s Icons 18K yellow gold multi-colored gemstone and diamond ring, $2,969. Roberto Coin Pois Moi collection 18K yellow gold and diamond cuff, $12,600. Marco Bicego Murano Link collection 18K yellow gold and multi-colored gemstone bracelet, $14,520.
Fit to a Tea
From left: David Yurman Classic black ceramic and stainless steel diamond watch, $6,600. John Hardy Classic Chain sterling silver and pavé black sapphire ring, $695. Tapper’s Icons collection pavé black diamond ring, $3,795. John Hardy Classic Chain collection sterling silver black sapphire ring, $495. John Hardy Dot Lava collection sterling silver and black sapphire ring, $250. John Hardy Dot collection sterling silver ring, $195. HJT Reserve 18K white gold sapphire, opal, and diamond cuff, $13,999.
All that Sparkles
From left: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ladies Datejust watch, 18K white gold and stainless steel with diamond bezel, diamond markers and motherof-pearl dial, $17,050. Rock Her World™ Danae collection 14K white gold diamond engagement ring, call for pricing. Mikimoto 18K white gold 20” pearl strand necklace, $4,140. Mikimoto 18K white gold 20” pearl strand necklace, $4,830. 14K white gold and diamond stackable rings, $299 - $1,499. David Yurman Crossover collection sterling silver pearl and diamond ring, $1,250. David Yurman Crossover collection sterling silver pearl and diamond bangle, $2,300. Mikimoto 18K white gold 7” pearl bracelet, $1,610. Roberto Coin Pois Moi collection 18K white gold and diamond bangle, $4,300.
Internationally Recognized for Design of Floral, Stationery and Tablescapes
Owner, David C. McKnight
Floral Planning Rentals Stationery 248 4747077 WWW.EMERALDCITYDESIGNS.COM
a family affair
A Celebration of Generations Somerset Collection jewelry advisor Rosiland Townes is one of those blessed women who has four generations of mothers and daughters in her family. Her mother, Deloise Walker, grew up in a small town in Arkansas where she was the youngest of 10. She and her husband moved to metro Detroit in 1948, like so many others, to seek out the opportunities that were available here in the auto industry. They raised their six children in a home steeped deep in faith and tradition. Rosiland, the oldest of those six children, raised her daughters Ericka and Tia in much the same way. Erickaâ€™s daughter Chloe, who is a freshman at Novi High School, represents the fourth generation of this close and loving family.
Photographs by Frameable Faces
From left: Ericka Cobb, Chloe Cobb, Deloise Walker, Rosiland Townes.
What do two Baby Boomers, a Gen X’er and a Millennial all have in common? In celebration of Father’s Day, we take a look at four members of the Tapper’s family. Father and son, Howard and Mark, along with Steven and his son, Alex, each have their very own distinct style, but what all four of them share is a love for their family and a passion for jewelry.
THE SOPHISTICATE Mark Tapper: Equally comfortable in a suit and tie or blue jeans and a baseball cap, Mark personiﬁes Generation X. His entrepreneurial spirit and direct style of communication makes him extremely effective as the president of Tapper’s. Mark’s extensive travels have led him to a love of jewelry designed and manufactured around the world. He is passionate about global issues yet dedicated to local causes.
Tapper’s Gents collection 14K white gold and sapphire cufﬂinks, $1,079. John Hardy Poleng collection sterling silver tie clip, $350. IWC Portuguese watch, $12,400.
Howard Tapper: Known for his ethical, caring and optimistic nature, the family patriarch has a classic style that is indicative of his Baby Boomer generation. His success is largely due to his work ethic, drive and passion for his business. Howard appreciates the intrinsic value of the materials utilized in ﬁne watches and jewelry. His look is polished, never fussy and perfectly suited to his role as CEO of Tapper’s Diamonds and Fine Jewelry.
Tapper’s Gents collection 18K white and yellow princess and round diamond ring, $7,995. Rolex President 41 mm Day-Date watch, $34,850.
Alex Tapper: Like many Millenials, Alex possesses a great deal of self-conﬁdence and ambition. He is currently in his third year of medical school at Wayne State University. His compassion for the less fortunate has led him to volunteer his time at medical clinics here in Detroit, as well as in Haiti. His style is sporty and casual, which suits his busy life including his current rotation at Henry Ford Hospital.
John Hardy Naga collection bronze and sterling silver gray nylon cord wrap bracelet, $350. John Hardy Bedeg collection sterling silver gray nylon cord bracelet, $295. TAG Heuer Formula 1 stainless steel watch, $1,450.
Steven Tapper: As vice president of Tapper’s Steven has worked alongside his brother for over 38 years. Steven has a love for the visual arts, and along with being a brilliant jewelry designer, he is an accomplished photographer and ceramicist. He possesses many of the qualities of Baby Boomers, including a ﬁerce loyalty to family and an idealistic nature. Steven’s sincere affection for all of Tapper’s customers can be witnessed at the West Bloomﬁeld location on a daily basis.
David Yurman Spiritual collection sterling silver blue lapis and blue sapphire ball bracelet, $1,600. David Yurman Wave collection sterling silver and blue sapphire signet ring, $1,400. David Yurman Classic Jumping Hours limited-edition watch, $8,900.
a family affair The number three has been lucky for Nawal Al-jezrawi. Born and raised in Iraq, she and her husband, Naji, had three daughters: Zeena, Hala and Reema. Hala Shamoun is Tapperâ€™s operations and service specialist. In 1993 the Al-jezrawis left Iraq to escape the war and offer their daughters a better education, quality of life and safer environment here in the United States. Both Nawal and her daughter Zeena learned to speak English while still living in Iraq. The rest of the family learned the language once they were settled here. Today Nawal is blessed with three beautiful granddaughters: Natalie, Natalynn and Abby. Her strength and dedication to her family has made this matriarch respected and revered by her family.
From Left: Hala Shamoun, Natalie Qaji, Zeena Qaji, Nawal Al-jezrawi, Natalynn Qaji, Abby Shamoun, Reema Maldonado
Photograph by Paul Primeau
Class of 2014 For over 38 years, Tapper’s has helped to mark the most important moments in our associates’ lives as well as our customers’. We proudly salute six of metro Detroit’s brightest and most promising high school graduates who we are proud to call part of our family. We wish them the best of luck in all of their future endeavors.
Julian Gjonaj, the son of Tapper’s Twelve Oaks Fine jewelry advisor Leza Gjonaj, graduates from Northville High School. Julian played mid-ﬁeld on the Varsity lacrosse team. After graduation, Julian plans on attending Schoolcraft College for general studies and later wants to transfer to Michigan State University.
Great Gifts for the Grad Photo courtesy of Lasting Touch
Lindsay Remer, daughter of Tapper’s West Bloomﬁeld ﬁne jewelry advisor Danielle Remer, graduates from West Bloomﬁeld High School. Lindsay was involved in the Friendship Circle, Law Club, Teen Court, Debate Team, and National Honor Society. She was the Optimist Club Essay Winner for three years, and also received the Silver Fellowship Award from Friendship Circle. After graduation, Lindsay plans to attend the University of Michigan.
Photo courtesy of Tiffa
Erin Ben-Moche, daughter of Tapper’s Twelve Oaks operations and service specialist Marci Ben-Moche, graduates from West Bloomﬁeld High School. Erin was a part of the drama department, Laker Express Jazz/Show Choir, MIFA member, Shaarey Zedek Sunday School assistant, and Tamarack counselor. She was also a member of the International Thespian Society. Erin is currently deciding on which college to attend to study musical theater. Faces Photo courtesy of Frameable
Deanna Zawislak, daughter of Tapper’s marketing director Ann Duke, graduates from Royal Oak High School. She was on the ROHS Varsity Dance Team (where she received the Best Technique and Best Attitude Awards), ROHS Dance Company, ROHS Choir program and was named the 2014 “class clown.” Deanna also danced at Deborah’s Stage Door dance studio. After graduation she plans to attend Oakland University as a psychology major, as well as try out for their dance team, and one day pursue a career as a psychiatrist.
of Boswell Photo courtesy
Camille Primeau, daughter of Tapper’s staff photographer Paul Primeau, graduates from Royal Oak High School. She is an intern with the Rackham Symphony Choir, student conductor of the Royal Oak Singers (freshman choir at ROHS) and a member of the National Honor Society. At ROHS, she was the 2014 division winner in both the Madonna University Honors Competition and the National Association of Teachers of Singing Competition. Camille is deciding whether to attend Michigan State University or U of M in the fall to study vocal music. She plans to one day tour Europe in opera productions.
Photo courtesy of Paul Prime
Brooke Zarves, daughter of Tapper’s accounts payable specialist Dawn Zarves, graduates from Walled Lake Central. Brooke also attends the Oakland Schools Technical Campus to study cosmetology. She was honored with the outstanding volunteerism and community involvement award through Lakes Area Youth Assistance. After graduation, Brooke plans on attending Oakland Community College and taking her state boards for cosmetology.
Photo courtesy of Foc
Opposite page: Shinola 41 mm Runwell watch with brown leather strap, $600. U of M and MSU cufﬂinks, $60 each. David Yurman sterling silver extra large box chain men’s bracelet, $450. John Hardy Classic Chain collection sterling silver men’s bracelet, $495. This page: Tapper’s Monogram Collection 22K yellow gold over sterling silver. 1 5/8” script monogram necklace, $249. 3/4” sterling silver script monogram necklace, $159.99 (allow four weeks for delivery). Tapper’s Icons collection diamond cluster earrings, $999. Mikimoto 18K white gold earrings with single diamond and pearl drop, $860. Matching pendant necklace, $500.
RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY ACCESSORIESDIRECTIONS.COM
A rosy outlook on spring fashion.
1. Meira T. 14K rose gold rutilated quartz and diamond necklace, $970. 2. Ballon bleu de Cartier midsize watch, automatic, 33 mm, 18K rose gold, $26,000. 3. Rose gold and diamond stacking rings. From top to bottom: $900, $399, $599, $700, $1,099 and $975. 4. Lana 14K rose gold ﬂirt hoop earrings, $775. 5. Roberto Coin 18K rose gold, rose quartz and mother of pearl ring with diamond bezel, $4,720. 6. Tapper’s Icons Collection 18K rose gold and diamond disc earrings, $2,499. Images may be enlarged to show detail.
1. Mikimoto 18K white gold graduated pearl strand necklace, $3,500. Mikimoto 18K white gold, diamond and pearl pendant necklace, $18,500. 2. Gregg Ruth 18K white gold and diamond drop earrings, $13,640. 3. Kwiat 18K white gold and diamond three-row bracelet, $18,900. 4. Michele two-tone stainless steel and diamond watch, $2,445. 5. Tapper’s Icons Collection 14K white gold pavé diamond hoop earrings, $4,999. 6. Brilliant Rock Her World™Aurora collection 14K white gold .50 ct.tw. diamond studs, $1,299 and .50 ct. diamond pendant, $1,899. Images may be enlarged to show detail.
RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY ACCESSORIESDIRECTIONS.COM
Feminine ﬂair is always on trend.
SEREIN 16 DIAMOND SEREIN 16 DIAMOND TWO-TONE
1. Marco Bicego Siviglia Collection 18K white and yellow gold diamond station necklace. 18â€?, $3,580. 36â€? $6,850. 2. Armenta Old World Collection 18K yellow gold and oxidized sterling silver hoop earrings, $2,290. 3. Penny Preville 18K yellow gold and diamond bangle bracelet, $10,990. 4. Armenta Old World Collection 18K yellow gold and oxidized sterling silver lapis rings. Marquise, $2,490. Clover, $3,270. East/West, $1,390. 5. Gurhan 24K yellow gold and sterling silver bangles. From top to bottom: $350, $450, $450 and $1,350. 6. David Yurman Coil Cable Collection sterling silver and diamond earrings, $1,950. Pendant, $1,200. Four-strand chain, $440.
RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY ACCESSORIESDIRECTIONS.COM
This shining style is anything but dull.
30YEARS OF CABLE A celebration of inspiration and innovation.
able is the unifying element of every David Yurman collection, encompassing art, inspiration, innovation and unity. David’s iconic signature is unmistakable, since this design is a variation on a theme within all his collections. This year, David Yurman celebrates a major milestone: 30 years since he introduced his signature Renaissance Cable bracelet, which revolutionized the American jewelry industry. “With the cable design, David Yurman created pieces that were immediately identiﬁable as part of a collection by our clients,” says Howard Tapper. “And that made it easy for them to build upon. It’s no wonder he was the ﬁrst modern jewelry designer to become a household name.” A striking blend of ancient and modern sensibilities, the cable design conveys casual elegance and authentic glamour. Bridging ﬁne jewelry and fashion through art, it became the bracelet, the iconic David Yurman piece and one of the most famous jewelry designs in the world today, instantly recognizable and an enduring classic.
“Cable is the perfect form. As an artist, it offers me inﬁnite possibilities.” DAVID YURMAN
Estate jewelry is a present that comes with a past. KARYN D. COLLINS
he term “estate jewelry” often conjures up visions of million-dollar baubles that once belonged to royalty, heiresses and Hollywood stars. But for many jewelers, a more typical estate jewelry story is like the one of a young woman who brought in her grandmother’s ring to Reis-Nichols Jewelers in Indianapolis. “The girl’s mother had put it in a drawer because she never wore it, and the girl brought it in to sell as scrap gold. Well, it was Bulgari—not an antique, but still a beautiful piece. So I made her an offer accordingly,” says Jon Bennett, Reis-Nichols’ lead estate buyer. Sounds like a nice surprise! In the fine jewelry industry, estate jewelry is
an umbrella term for any pre-owned jewelry from another era. The category includes antique jewelry, which by definition is nearly 100 years old or more. “I like to use the term ‘pre-loved’ when I describe estate jewelry,” says Holly A. Blenden, a gemologist with Hamilton Jewelers in New Jersey. “It doesn’t reflect any specific time period or even a special manufacturer. It doesn’t necessarily have to be from an actual estate sale or bequeathed in a will. It just means it’s a piece of jewelry that someone has loved.” How jewelers handle the estate segment of their business differs greatly from store to store. Some, for example, have a dedicated person or team that purchases items from
I like to use the term ‘pre-loved’ when I describe estate jewelry. It doesn’t necessarily have to be from an actual estate sale or left in a will. It just means it’s a piece of jewelry that someone has loved.” HOLLY A. BLENDEN GEMOLOGIST, HAMILTON JEWELERS
auctions, estate sales and antique jewelry dealers. Other stores feature, for the most part, items that customers have brought in for resale. How the items are featured and sold (including how large of a percentage estate jewelry accounts for in the overall product mix) also varies by store. The Diamond Cellar offers estate jewelry online as well as at one of its two Ohio stores, but the items at its Dublin location aren’t on display and are only brought out on request. Lux Bond & Green rotates its estate jewelry collection among its eight locations in Connecticut and Massachusetts. And at Lee Michaels Fine Jewelry, three of its six locations offer estate jewelry. The Baton Rouge, La. store actually has a separate room devoted entirely to estate and antique jewelry. “I think it gives the collection a certain sophistication. It’s a beautiful room,” says Katheryne C. Mauldin, manager of antique and estate jewelry. Tapper’s in Michigan has an especially unique policy: it will, as a matter of courtesy, accept any item brought in to them, reveals Leora Tapper, who handles estate jewelry purchasing for the retailer. “We’re proud to offer this service,” says Tapper. “We have a long history and have built a great [estate jewelry] business, so we won’t turn our customers away, no matter what the piece is.” y contrast, London Jewelers focuses exclusively on vintage Chanel jewelry that it purchases through a dealer. The inventory is spread among the company’s website and its five locations in the Hamptons and suburbs of New York City. Customers can order from London Jewelers’ website, or request that items be sent to a nearby store to be viewed in person. For stores that offer a mix of pieces purchased from dealers and brought in by customers, it can be tricky to find the right balance between what appeals to a jeweler’s eye and what will sell. “I look for jewelry that has a provenance and a story. My goal is to bring in pieces that I can potentially resell,” says Bennett at Reis-Nichols. “I also look for brand names with a heritage, since they give some value above and beyond the style of the item. “Customers often want jewelry that comes from a certain era: for some collectors it’s Art Deco, others the Edwardian period. And then you have people who just want to buy something unique, that’s of good value and maybe costs less than what they would pay for a brand-new version.” But sometimes a jeweler can only follow his instincts, taking a shot in the dark at what he thinks will appeal to customers. “I have a few pieces still in our case today and I can’t understand why they haven’t sold,” John Green of Lux Bond & Green confides. “One in particular we’ve had for seven years, but no one has bought it. I think it’s beautiful and I would probably buy it again,” he says. “Then there have been things I liked but didn’t think were as unique, and they were purchased right away. “What’s the saying? Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.” Perhaps that special treasure is waiting just for you.
MIX In THE Freshen up your jewelry favorites.
Have a tennis bracelet that’s been sitting in the recesses of your jewelry box? Think your round, brilliant-cut, prong-set stud earrings look too traditional? Love your grandmother’s 1920s Art Deco diamond and platinum brooch but don’t know how to wear it alongside your contemporary jewelry? Spring 2014 is all about the art of the mix. There is a trend towards updating classics you already own (or want to own) by combining them with more fashionable styles, or adding a contemporary element to those pieces in your jewelry box that you thought were outdated. It’s all about personalizing your jewelry look, which means mixing old with new, antique heirloom with modern, and even throwing in some edgy pieces.
Here are three tips to help you get the most mileage— and style—from your jewelry box:
Inherit This Style
If you’re one of those lucky women who have inherited an elegant Art Deco brooch but can’t figure out how to incorporate it into your everyday jewelry wardrobe, here are a few intriguing ideas. You can fasten it onto an elongated diamond station necklace, or
Diamonds Will Always Be a Girl’s Best Friend
wear the brooch as a pendant on a satin cord (layered with a station necklace if you wish). Or pin the brooch to the side
If you own a (flexible diamond line-style) tennis bracelet from the late-’80s or early-’90s
of a dress, and complete the look with
that was once chic (worn with Armani pantsuits to power lunches or out to coffee with the
linear earrings that also recall an Art
other moms), it’s time to try mixing it up. Add status pieces like large links or thin cuffs
Deco influence—a pair with swing and
and bangles. These diamond line bracelets are injected with new life when worn with
movement. But don’t stop there: get
another classic, like the Cartier Love bracelet, on one side, and a thin bangle with a
creative with a double-finger ring or one
gemstone and diamond pavé surround on the other. For an edgier look, add a snake cuff
of those fashionable bracelet/ring
that slithers around your wrist. For the more sentimental, layer with a charm bracelet; if
creations that extends from your finger
you haven’t been filling one up for years, it’s never too late to start. Your wrist is the
to your wrist.
Love the sentimental designs of Victorian-era rings, but think you need to save them for a special occasion? Not so. Try stacking a Victorian cluster ring with mine-cut diamonds, or a new polished, rough-cut gray diamond ring from Todd Reed, and the look becomes current and playful. Or go for a garden theme, with a bold piece like Stephen Webster’s pavé diamond butterfly ring, worn with an antique snake ring on the same hand. Luckily, you have 10 fingers and limitless possibilities.
FROM TOP: IMAGES COURTESY OF PENNY PREVILLE, IVANKA TRUMP, STEPHEN WEBSTER
perfect place to mix metals—white, pink and yellow gold—and gemstones with diamonds.
DETROIT, THE NEW WATCHMAKING CAPITAL OF AMERICA. TH E R U NWE LL FEATU R I NG A B LACK DIAL WITH R E MOTE SWE E P SECON D I N A STAI N LESS STE E L CASE AN D DETROIT-B U I LT ARGON ITE 1069 MOVE M E NT.
WATCH ADVISOR CAN ANY WATCH BE REPAIRED BY ANY TECHNICIAN, OR ARE WATCH MOVEMENTS UNIQUE TO EACH BRAND? It depends very much on the watch. Many watches use movements (the mechanism inside that actually keeps time) made in the tens or hundreds of thousands by major industry suppliers, but some luxury watches use their own in-house movements and materials that few watchmakers are trained to service, or can't obtain the parts to service properly. Especially for luxury mechanical watches, we always suggest using a brandauthorized service center like the one in our store. Mistakes are very easy to make, and extremely expensive to fix.
How many parts are used to make a timepiece, and how many hours go into constructing it?
ven a simple mechanical watch that tells only the date and time can have over a hundred parts, including the case, dial and hands. Very complicated watches that include functions like a chronograph (stopwatch), a perpetual calendar (one that always shows the right date, no matter if the current month has 30 or 31 days, or even if it's February 29th in a leap year), or a repeater (which chimes the time on tiny gongs inside the watch) may have many, many more. Watches that combine these complications, often called “grand complication” watches, may have close to a thousand parts, all of which have to be tested and re-tested. They can take nearly a year to assemble. Most other watches take much less time to build. Exactly how much depends on the level of care that goes into finishing the movement parts, how complex the case construction is, whether or not any special techniques must be used to make the dial (for example, enamel and engraved dials both take considerable time and skill to make), and how carefully the watch is adjusted—that is, fine-tuned to keep time accurately. Mechanical timepieces can be almost entirely machine fabricated and assembled, or they can be almost entirely made by hand, virtually from scratch. It all depends on the specific model. A mass-produced mechanical watch is a marvel of industrial technology that makes it possible, for a reasonable price, to enjoy all the pleasures of mechanical watchmaking. A hand-assembled, hand-finished watch with a hand-finished movement, individually adjusted by an expert watchmaker, takes many dozens of hours of skilled work, which can only be done by highly trained experts with years of experience.
What is the difference between quartz and mechanical watches? Is one better than the other? A mechanical watch is powered by a coiled spring—just like a child's wind-up toy—and it uses a mechanical, rather than electronic, oscillator to mark time. (Think of the principle of a pendulum clock, where the pendulum always swings, say, once per second. Of course, a pendulum wouldn't work in a portable timepiece; it uses something called a balance and
balance spring that perform the same function.) Mechanical watches are preferred by most serious watch lovers, and their history goes back much further— all the way back to the late Renaissance if you include pocket watches. Quartz watches are generally more accurate and almost always less expensive. However, a wellmaintained mechanical watch can
keep time to within a few seconds a day, or even a week—more than good enough for most purposes. Mechanical watches also offer a history and heritage far older than quartz watches. Though they're technical marvels, the massproduced, basically disposable nature of many quartz watches makes mechanical watchmaking something that continues to be held in high regard. BY JACK FORSTER
A quartz watch is powered by a battery, and keeps time by passing a tiny current through a very small quartz crystal. This causes the crystal to vibrate, like a tuning fork, and a tiny integrated circuit counts the vibrations per second to mark time. The hands are moved by miniature electric motors. They are a fairly recent development; the first were sold to the public in 1969.
SPOTLIGHT by Roberta Naas
HOT WATCHES Today’s finest watchmakers are pulling out all the stops when it comes to timepiece design. Key men’s looks for the season include stealth black chronographs to time his workouts.
DAVID YURMAN Classic GMT World Time Iconic American designer David Yurman continues to create top-of-the-line Swiss-made watches. Among his more coveted pieces is the very functional yet refined Classic GMT World Time watch. Created in a 43.5 mm stainless steel case with integrated signature cable design, the watch houses a topquality Swiss automatic ETA Movement with 42 hours of power reserve. It offers hour, minute and seconds timing, as well as a dual time-zone function. The sapphire crystal and caseback both feature two-sided anti-reflective coating for easy readability, and to allow for viewing of the movement. An inner rotating bezel on the watch indicates top world cities, and there is a printed 24-hour GMT track for use in finding time in different zones. The watch is water resistant to 100 feet.
PANERAI PAM515 Radiomir 1940 3 Days Oro Rosso Those who love the iconic brand will be thrilled with the Officine Panerai PAM515 Radiomir 1940 3 Days Oro Rosso. The bold 47 mm, 18-karat rose gold case houses the 162-part hand-wound mechanical Panerai P. 3000 caliber—created entirely in house by Panerai. The 21-jeweled movement features an Incabloc anti-shock device for all your rugged sports, and offers three days of power reserve via two barrels. The Radiomir 1940 3 Days Oro Rosso recalls the brand’s rich history with the navy, and its brown dial and luminous numerals and markers are vintage inspired. The sapphire crystal is extra thick and features an anti-reflective coating. The caseback is a sapphire crystal as well, for viewing the superb movement. While classically alluring, the elegant watch is also water resistant to 50 meters.
METAL TWISTED G-SHOCK
MTGS1000BD-1A Stainless Steel
TRIPLE G RESIST VIBRATION RESISTANCE SHOCK RESISTANCE CENTRIFUGAL FORCE RESISTANCE metal twisted g-shock A fusion of resin and metal encompassed in a case that has our trademark shock resistance with extraordinary elegance results in the perfect combination of our technologies and impeccable craftsmanship.
ÂŠ2014 CASIO AMERICA, INC.
WATCHMAKING by Jack Forster
HOOKED ON CLASSICS
Heritage-themed watchmaking in the 21st century.
n 1969, the first quartz watch (the Seiko Astron, which cost as much as a car at the time) was introduced, and by the mid-1970s mechanical watches seemed to be on their way out. But today they’re back in a big way, and some of the most popular styles recall the most classic designs from the past. Watchmaking has been around for nearly 500 years, and for the last century, wristwatches have dominated personal timekeeping. But they didn’t really take off until after the first World War, when their widespread use by officers as a more practical alternative to the pocket watch made them respectable for men to wear. (Before then, they were called “wristlet” watches and were worn almost exclusively by women.) A fine mechanical wristwatch—a tiny, high-precision machine—was considered a masterpiece of miniaturization, and as the wristwatch evolved
technically, especially during the 1950s and ’60s, certain classic forms evolved too. One of the most important was the extra-thin dress watch. Extra-thin watches couldn’t be made by just anybody; they required high precision and care to assemble thanks to the unforgiving tolerances, so a thin, gold dress watch was considered a de rigeur accessory. The development of better waterproofing techniques led to the evolution of sports watches that could be worn by divers, and specialist watches (particularly chronographs), which combined the functions of a watch and stopwatch, began to be made for pilots, motorsports enthusiasts, and were even worn into space by both American and Soviet astronauts. Extra-thin watches seemed a dying breed, even during the renaissance of mechanical watchmaking. As recently as 10 years ago, men’s taste ran strongly
IMAGE COURTESY OF JAEGER-LECOULTRE
Jaeger-LeCoultre master engraver Dominique Vuez
WATCHMAKING in favor of large, aggressively styled watches, but in the last five years watch lovers have rediscovered the pleasures of the classic dress watch. The evolution of thin watches goes back a long way, to the 18th century, when some of the first thin pocket watches were made by Pierre de Beaumarchais (who also wrote the Figaro plays, one of which was turned into the opera The Barber of Seville, by Rossini). Making a true extra-thin watch that still keeps time well is a huge challenge. Everything from the mainspring to the case itself has to be built differently, in order to maintain the ability to keep precise time in a space that may be half the thickness, or less, of an ordinary dress watch. For this reason, true extra-thin watches tend to be made by companies that have been in the business for a while—long enough to build up the necessary expertise. For real connoisseurs, they’re desirable not just for the technical skill it takes to make them, or their incredible elegance (they’re still the only really correct watch for formal events, James Bond’s Rolex-with-tux notwithstanding), but also for the heritage of the companies that make them.
One of the least-known but most interesting pieces of pilot’s watch history is from an even more unlikely source: Cartier. Cartier’s most famous watch is, of course, the Tank (first sold in 1918 and in production ever since, speaking of classic dress watches), but it’s not often realized that the Santos was originally designed as a pilot’s watch, for the great aviation pioneer Alberto SantosDumont. Santos-Dumont, one of the first to successfully build and fly a heavierthan-air craft, was a friend to Louis Cartier. When he complained that a pocket watch wasn’t exactly practical for flying, Louis Cartier made a wristwatch for him, which Santos-Dumont wore while flying as early Panerai Radiomir as 1906. Though the watch has been made in a huge Composite Black Seal 3 Days Automatic variety of styles, the basic design’s still the same. It’s fascinating to note that in addition to being one of the Cartier Santos, original and current most successful watch models of all time, the Santos was also the first pilot’s watch. Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Diver’s watches are loved and worn by many who
What’s old is new again. Classic watch styles endure the test of time. Think Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Breguet, Piaget, and of course, Patek Philippe. intage-style chronographs are, for many, a reminder of some of the most important events in motorsports, with names like Daytona and Carrera representing both iconic competitions and the watches favored by drivers and enthusiasts. Although vintage-style dress chronographs are popular, the lion’s share of attention these days goes to sports chronographs, including models by companies like Rolex, Tudor and TAG Heuer which either revive favorite designs from the past, or which have actually never gone out of production (the Rolex Daytona is a case in point). For their part, pilot’s watches have remained one of the most enduringly appealing of all watch types. In the explosion of interest in civil aviation postWWII, some of today’s most memorable designs were first created, including Breitling’s Navitimer and the Rolex GMT Master (first made for Pan Am aircrews). Ironically, one of the most popular aviator’s watches of all time—the Omega Speedmaster Professional—was first designed for motorsports enthusiasts (its tachymetric bezel is designed to calculate average speed over a measured mile). But it became immortalized in watchmaking history as the timepiece worn by all Apollo crews, and it’s still flight-qualified by NASA today.
never dive, though plenty of amateur and professional divers still use them, as a back-up to modern wrist-worn dive computers. They’re popular for both their rugged good looks and inherent durability. Not just any watch can be called a “diver’s watch”; there is actually an international standard which specifies, among other things, a 200-meter minimum water-resistance, shock resistance, and anti-magnetic resistance, as well as a certain minimum visibility in the dark, and a mandatory rotating timing bezel. Thanks to the rich history of the development of undersea exploration—and undersea warfare—in the 20th century, there are a wealth of choices, including the Rolex Submariner (in production continuously since it was introduced in 1954, and one of the most enduring designs of all time). As with the Santos, some of the earliest diver’s watches may be a surprise. Those who don’t know Panerai might dismiss their Radiomir and Luminor designs as mere exercises in style, but in fact they’re designs that originated in the 1950s (Luminor) and the 1930s (Radiomir), representing some of the first true diver’s watches ever made. Whether you’re looking for a watch that’s rich in history, or just a greatlooking timepiece that recalls the post-World War II Golden Age of mechanical watchmaking, there’s never been a better time to be a watch lover.
BACK IN THE
Shinola puts the shine back on Made in America. JACQUELIN CARNEGIE O
nce upon a time, America had a proud tradition of manufacturing and craftsmanship. But in recent years, due to economic considerations, most of the business of making things has been outsourced to Asia and India. A few years ago, Bedrock Manufacturing in Dallas decided to buck the trend by launching and investing in innovative and creative U.S.-based companies. To create a company to make beautifully styled, made-inAmerica watches, bicycles and leather goods, Bedrock acquired the rights to an iconic American brand name: Shinola. The next bold decision was to base this new Shinola in Detroit, once the heart of American manufacturing. The city already had a surplus of highly skilled, underemployed workers, so Shinola opened a state-of-the-art factory in an historic Detroit building, the former design headquarters for General Motors and the current site of The College for Creative Studies, a leading institution for art and design education that was looking for creative businesses as tenants. With a goal to create the highest-quality items with the most streamlined of designs, Shinola’s creative director, Daniel Caudill, set the tone for the look and style of the products, then began hiring and
training. In addition, the company partnered with a select group of highquality, family-owned businesses in America’s heartland for the acquisition of goods and parts. The watches, which feature quartz Argonite movements, are hand assembled by a team that underwent extensive training by Ronda Ltd., a top Swiss-based watch firm. Shinola’s bicycle frames are made at Waterford Precision Cycles in Wisconsin, then custom assembled by specially trained experts in the Detroit plant. The quality leather for watch straps and a collection of leather goods comes from Horween’s, a Chicago-based factory known for its time-honored techniques and skilled craftspeople. These leather items are assembled by the Eric Scott company, a premier manufacturer of custom leather goods in Ste. Genevieve, Missouri. Shinola also has a line of linen-covered journals with acidfree paper produced by Edwards Brothers Malloy in Ann Arbor Michigan, known for its top-caliber production and paper. The items all bear Shinola’s “Built in Detroit” tagline. If all goes well, the brand plans to expand its product line to a whole range of lifestyle goods, all made right here in the USA.
PEACE OF MIND STARTS WITH PROOF OF QUALITY. Weight Carat 1.53
ColorE Grade Grade Clarity VS1
Laser Inscription Registry Number GIA 16354621 Natural Diamond Not Synthetic
For over 80 years, GIA has brought clarity and global standards to gem evaluation. A GIA report means expert, independent veriﬁcation from the creator of the 4Cs and the world’s most widely recognized gem authority.
Look for GIA-graded diamonds and jewelers who offer them.
CARLSBAD ANTWERP BANGKOK DUBAI GABORONE HONG KONG JOHANNESBURG LONDON MOSCOW MUMBAI NEW YORK OSAKA RAMAT GAN SEOUL TAIPEI TOKYO
Here Comes the Sun Hot trends in sunglasses for 2014. ELISE DIAMANTINI
The flowers are blooming and the days are getting longer. Wake up your wardrobe with a new pair of stylish sunglasses. RETRO REVIVAL The ’70s have recently been a major fashion influence, and eyewear this season is also taking a nod from the decade. Says Fashion Snoops’ Lindsay Alt, “There is a very interesting ’70s influence happening right now; I love the Fear and Loathing look that we’ve seen on runways. I think people always fantasize about the late’60s and early-’70s, so trends from those times are often adopted quickly.”
MIXED MATERIALS Just as in women’s apparel and jewelry, mixing materials is a hot trend in designer eyewear. As Vision Monday magazine’s Deirdre Carroll predicts, all sorts of combinations—acetate fronts paired with metal temples or wood fronts paired with acetate temples, for example—will be strong styles for spring.
THE EMBELLISHED EYE
MIRROR MIRROR While some may see mirrored lenses and think “cop glasses,” this trend is taking the fashion world by storm. Carroll elaborates: “Flash and mirror coatings on lenses, usually seen on sport performance pieces, are now being paired with more fashionable acetate styles and feel especially fresh. Monochromatic frame and flash mirror lens pairings are also on the rise, i.e. a green frame with green lenses.”
SIZE MATTERS Oversized glasses are a tried-and-true trend that isn’t disappearing anytime soon. However, as an update this spring, designers are introducing lighter-weight frames so glasses won’t weigh you down. “While oversized sunglasses and deeper optical frames are still popular,” says Carroll, “they can also be heavy on the face. Designers are using more lightweight materials, like flat-sheet stainless steel and titanium, or carving the acetate more delicately, to make glasses more comfortable and wearable.”
FROM TOP: IMAGES COURTESY OF RAEN, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, ANN-KARIN KARLSSON, JIMMY CHOO, BALENCIAGA
Have a little fun with your eyewear. Designers are enhancing glasses by adding quirky ornaments to some of this season’s frames. Or you can take a plain pair and DIY! “We’re seeing everything from cheetahs to rosebuds being placed right on top of the sunglasses, says Alt. “It’s something you would expect the younger generation to pick up, but everyone is going crazy for it. You never know what people will take to; that is what makes it so fun.”
behind the scenes
TAPPER’S IS YOUR
nce you’ve purchased that watch, diamond or ﬁne piece of jewelry, Tapper’s is here to help you maintain and protect those items for years to come. We are very proud of our highly trained staff of professional and experienced
diamond specialists and style-savvy associates. These dedicated individuals are always on hand to inform and educate you about a variety of topics, from caring for your ﬁne jewelry and timepieces, to estate and appraisal services, to creating your custom, one-of-akind piece of jewelry! Customer service representative Sue Gaddis greets every customer with a smile. Her attention to detail makes Sue a favorite among Tapper’s shoppers.
Repairs The care and maintenance of your precious items is essential to their beauty, safety and value. Tapper’s is proud to house an on-site after sales service and restoration department, staffed by consummate professionals who use their expertise in order to repair and restore your jewelry. Whether you purchased your jewelry at Tapper’s or elsewhere, we are able to inspect, repair and provide appropriate care for virtually any precious item. On-site master jewelers treat each item with the utmost respect and care.
behind the scenes Watch Service As a certiﬁed watch service center for several major Swiss brands, Tapper’s expert watchmakers handle timepieces from all over the world. Have your watch exterior case and bracelet cleaned and inspected with our compliments whenever you visit one of our stores. Each timepiece manufacturer provides recommendations for cleaning, maintenance and service particular to that timepiece. We’re pleased to provide trained watchmakers on staff to service your watch. If your watch needs an adjustment, cleaning or overhaul, we have the ability to service watches from the casual to the unique collector’s timepiece. Our watch technicians will inspect your timepiece and identify the best solution for you. Trained by master Swiss watchmakers, Eugene Blakeman is one of the most highly respected watch specialists in the country. He has been a vital member of the Tapper’s organization for over 25 years.
Custom Design Mark the Moment® with the services of Tapper’s Custom Design team. Whether you wish to create a new look for an existing piece of jewelry or desire to design something entirely new, our Custom Design “dream team” will guide you through the custom-design process and create a unique, heirloom-quality treasure just for you.
Custom designers Marina Ovsepian, Paul Maki and Steven Tapper continue to amaze and delight our customers looking for unique, one-of-a-kind items.
Appraisals Tapper’s offers comprehensive appraisal services by Graduate Gemologists of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). We provide comprehensive jewelry appraisals and laboratory reports for all gemstones, jewelry and watches. Our appraisers are specialists in the areas of buying, evaluating and selling antique and estate jewelry, insurance replacements and customized appraisal services. Following a strict code of ethics governed by international organizations such as the Jewelers Vigilance Committee and Jewelers of America, our associates are committed to promoting responsible business practices in a clear and accountable manner. Shaunna Timiney, G.G. guides our customers through the appraisal process at all three Tapper’s locations.
Estate and Gold Buying The gold jewelry, diamonds, watches and estate heirlooms you have tucked away could be worth more than you think! There are many reasons for letting go of your previously enjoyed jewelry—whether it’s a past relationship, an inheritance, to lower your insurance costs, or because you’ve decided to update your jewelry box and replace your oldies with new goodies. Each Tapper’s Diamonds & Fine Jewelry store has a Tapper’s Estate Services located inside our showroom. Bring your gold, estate jewelry, watches or diamonds and our knowledgeable team of gold, diamond and estate buyers will gladly sit down with you to discuss your options. There is nothing more important to Tapper’s than your satisfaction when it comes to price, service, and integrity.
There is nothing more important to Tapper’s than your satisfaction when it comes to price, service and integrity.
Leora Tapper, G.G. is an expert at evaluating ﬁne estate jewelry and heirlooms.
Swetha Reddy, G.G. assists our guests in the process of selling their unwanted gold, silver and platinum.
PL ACID B LU E C AY E N N E
VIOLET TULIP CELOSIA OR ANGE
H EM LOCK RADIANT ORCHID
PA LO M A DA Z ZLI N G B LU E
FREESIA M A G E N TA P U R P L E
The Pantone Fashion Color Report is the foremost international authority on colors and trends for the upcoming fashion season. Created 50 years ago with the purpose of simplifying the decision-making and buying processes for fashion designers, industry leaders and enthusiasts, the report showcases the latest fashion trends and predictions—all in the name of style. As a new season of fashion made its debut during Fashion Week, so does a new palette of spring 2014 colors. With warmer days ahead, cooler colors prevail with tranquil Placid Blue and whimsical Violet Tulip, along with the much-loved neutral colors of Sand and Paloma. Take a cue from a beautiful spring sunset with colors like sultry Cayenne and tropical Celosia Orange. From light and airy green Hemlock to the combination of fuchsia and pink-toned Radiant Orchid, the possibilities are endless. From WIVMSYW JEWLMSRMWXEW XS XLSWI NYWX PSSOMRK XS YTHEXI XLIMV [EVHVSFIW NI[IPV] [MPP GSQTPIQIRX XLI XVIRH SJ VIJVIWLMRKP] VIÁRIH WX]PIW GSYTPIH [MXL XLI GPEWWMGW 8LIVI¸W E KIQWXSRI XS MRZMKSVEXI ER] SYXÁX ERH WIX XLI WXEKI JSV MRHMZMHYEP WX]PI ERH GLEVEGXIV
60 YEARS OF CONTINUOUS INSPIRATION IN THE PURSUIT OF TECHNICAL PERFECTION
Heritage Black Bay is the direct descendant of Tudor’s technical success in Greenland on the wrists of Royal Navy sailors. 60 years later, the Black Bay is ready to stand as its own legend. TUDOR HERITAGE BLACK BAY® Self-winding mechanical movement, waterproof to 200 m, 41 mm steel case. Visit tudorwatch.com and explore more.
© D.YURMAN 2014
TAPPER’S DIAMONDS AND FINE JEWELRY ACCENT THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS
The Magazine of Life's Celebrations