ACCENT/THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS
SPECIAL WATCH EDITION
RENEW AND REFRESH
D E N V E R
CELEBRATE SPRING! TRAVEL THE WORLD WITH INSPIRATO
L A S
V E G A S
P H O E N I X
Breguet, the innovator. Classique Hora Mundi - 5717 An invitation to travel across the continents and oceans illustrated on three versions of the hand-guillochĂŠ lacquered dial, the Classique Hora Mundi is the first mechanical watch with an instant-jump time-zone display. Thanks to a patented mechanical memory based on two heart-shaped cams, it instantly indicates the date and the time of day or night in a given city selected using the dedicated pushpiece. History is still being written...
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Inspirato® is a private travel membership club that requires a non-refundable Initiation Fee and Annual Membership Fee. Membership is subject to acceptance of terms and conditions and other reservation and use rules. Availability, beneﬁts, minimum stay requirements and nightly fees may vary by residence, date and membership option selected. See website (www.inspirato.com) for complete details. Inspirato is owned by Inspirato LLC and operated by its subsidiary Best of 52, LLC, 1637 Wazee Street, Denver, CO 80202, firstname.lastname@example.org, 303-586-7771. Operator is registered as Florida Seller of Travel Registration No. ST38403; Washington Seller of Travel Registration No. UBI 603086598; California Seller of Travel Registration No. CST 2107465. All products and services offered and rendered by Inspirato® (including the operation and management of any vacation residence) are provided solely by Inspirato LLC, Best of 52, LLC, or their respective agents and affiliates, and not by the American Express Company or its subsidiaries or affiliates. ©2014 Inspirato LLC.
FEATURES 10 Welcome Letter 14 Behind the Scenes 16 Hyde Park Community 20 Personalities: Frank Bonanno 22 Red Carpet 26 Style: All Mixed Up 28 Profile: Armenta 30 Interview: Penny Preville 32 From the Runways 38 Floral Fantasy
WATCHES A C C E NT M A G A Z I N E S P E C I A L S E C T I O N S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 014
56 Exhibits: Jewelry on Display 60 Destinations: Inspirato Style 62 Perfect Gems 64 Chatter: Ask the Designers
WATCH SECTION 44 Spotlight: 10 Hot Watches GETTY 1 PASIEKA
46 Wheels: Need for Speed 48 Service: Watches Are Not Perpetual Motion Machines
52 Watchmaking: Hooked on Classics 54 Partnerships: Time Trials
ACCENT/THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS
SPECIAL WATCH EDITION
RENEW AND REFRESH
D E N V E R
CELEBRATE SPRING! TRAVEL THE WORLD WITH INSPIRATO
L A S
V E G A S
P H O E N I X
ON THE COVER
Model Katherina Linke (Wilhemina Models) wears Pesavento Polvere di Sogni collection earrings, necklace, rings and bracelets. Photography and creative by Edwin Santa. Makeup and hair by Eliut Tarin. Styling by Jennifer Ferkenhoff.
oyster perpe tual date just l ady
oyster perpetual and datejust are trademarks.
HPJEWELS.COM DENVER HYDE PARK CHERRY CREEK SHOPPING CENTER 3000 E. 1ST AVENUE, DENVER, CO 80206 PHONE (303) 333-4446 PHOENIX HYDE PARK BILTMORE FASHION PARK 2502 E. CAMELBACK ROAD, PHOENIX, AZ 85016 PHONE (602) 667-3541 OMEGA BOUTIQUE AT HYDE PARK — DENVER CHERRY CREEK SHOPPING CENTER 3000 E. 1ST AVENUE, DENVER, CO 80206 PHONE (303) 331-7749 ROLEX PRESENTED BY HYDE PARK — LAS VEGAS THE FORUM SHOPS AT CAESARS 3500 LAS VEGAS BLVD SOUTH, LAS VEGAS, NV 89109 PHONE (702) 794-3541 TRADITIONAL JEWELERS — NEWPORT BEACH FASHION ISLAND 203 NEWPORT DRIVE, NEWPORT BEACH, CA 92660 PHONE (949) 721-9010 MICHAEL POLLAK CEO SHEREEN POLLAK PRESIDENT DAMON GROSS COO SUSI LEXIER-ALTMAN DENVER GENERAL MANAGER NANCY CASEY PHOENIX GENERAL MANAGER SANDI PERRY ROLEX PRESENTED BY HYDE PARK LAS VEGAS GENERAL MANAGER JOHN BURBA OMEGA PRESENTED BY HYDE PARK MANAGER BRENT SEYLER TRADITIONAL JEWELERS STORE MANAGER JENNIFER FERKENHOFF DIRECTOR OF MARKETING MOLLY WOJCIK DIRECTOR OF INTERACTIVE MARKETING PUBLISHED BY THE BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PROJECT MANAGER LISA MONTEMORRA
PUBLISHER STU NIFOUSSI
PRODUCTION MANAGER PEG EADIE
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN CREATIVE DIRECTOR HANS GSCHLIESSER
DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS JOHN FRASCONE
MANAGING EDITOR JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
PRESIDENT AND CEO BRITTON JONES
DESIGNERS CYNTHIA LUCERO JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI
CHAIRMAN AND COO MAC BRIGHTON
Prices are subject to change without notice and may vary depending on size, quality and availability. Copyright 2014. Accent® is published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; All Rights Reserved. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers’ claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 12, Issue 1. Accent® is a trademark of Business Journals, Inc. registered in the U.S. Patent and Trademark office. Printed In The U.S.A.
60 YEARS OF CONTINUOUS INSPIRATION IN THE PURSUIT OF TECHNICAL PERFECTION
Heritage Black Bay is the direct descendant of Tudor’s technical success in Greenland on the wrists of Royal Navy sailors. 60 years later, the Black Bay is ready to stand as its own legend. TUDOR HERITAGE BLACK BAY® Self-winding mechanical movement, waterproof to 200 m, 41 mm steel case. Visit tudorwatch.com and explore more.
welcome Hyde Park – Denver
Digits and Bits We have entered a new reality, one of being constantly connected to those we love, work and play with, and constantly connected to an online universe 24-7365. Yes, we all have a device with a view. And no, I’m not in denial. Our devices include desktops, laptops, tablets and the all-consuming smartphone. We text, chat, email, view and BUY! And we take pride in our newfound choices. As time-deprived consumers, we marvel at our new multitasking skill set and revel in our new-age enlightenment. Refilling the Starbucks card, Uber-ing to an appointment across town, booking a flight, refreshing the current value of an investment portfolio, posting our latest pictures, letting the world know we’re checking in... the list goes on.
Hyde Park – Phoenix
Yet at the end of the day, we each seek a powerful connection (and I’m not referring to Wi-Fi). I’m speaking about the real thing: the fulfillment of being present, in the moment, making an authentic connection with those who have meaning in our lives. And from time to time, we choose to mark a moment, an opportunity to express our deepest feeling, by presenting a gift from the heart. Once again, we are faced with endless choices. Of course we have a website where we showcase our brands, locations, community involvement and informative material, and offer a platform for you to connect with us. But when the gift is as important as the recipient and you’ve completed your online research, I encourage you to visit us to view the most incredible collection of designer and classic jewels as well as our incomparable collection of the most sought-after Swiss watch brands. Life is too short to compromise on quality and fine craftsmanship. The gift will have special meaning if you take the time to personally make the selection.
Omega Boutique at Hyde Park - Denver
We look forward to the pleasure of assisting you with your next moment. Warm Regards, Rolex Presented by Hyde Park – Las Vegas
Michael Pollak CEO, Hyde Park Jewelers email@example.com
10 Traditional Jewelers – Newport Beach
Mediterranean Sea. â€œGammaâ€? men in training. The diver emerging from the water is wearing a Panerai compass on his wrist.
history a n d heroes. radiomir 1940 3 days (ref. 514) available in steel and red gold
CONNECT WITH US PXRM_MT[KWUOQ^M[aW]]VXIZITTMTMLIKKM[[\W\PMTI\M[\QVNQVMRM_MTZaIVL\QUMXQMKM[ Join the Hyde Park community by connecting with us on social media to get insider information on all the latest trends and happenings, as well as new product unveilings and much more.
BEHIND THE SCENES At our spring fashion shoot, we sat down with photographer Edwin Santa to find out where his creative streak comes from. What was your inspiration for this shoot? Spring always gets me inspired: grass, trees, flowers, leaves, birds and color come to mind when the season approaches. For this photo shoot we wanted to go with everything in white and let the jewelry "bloom” in color. Who are some of the artists, photographers and fashion designers that have inspired you? Since early in my life I have been inspired by fashion. I admired the work of great photographers like Irving Penn, Richard Avedon, Paolo Roversi, Ruven Afanador, Mario Testino, Steven Meisel, Erwin Olaf... and so on! But I have been even more greatly influenced by the great fashion houses like Chanel, Dior, Balenciaga, Valentino, Ippolita 18K Alexander McQueen, Lanvin and Prada. What other creative projects are you working on? Right now I’m working on a few personal projects. One of them is an exhibition of my work for Art Basel week in Miami. I'm bringing together my love and passion for art, fashion and design .
Rock Candy Gelato collection in sailor
Tell us about the places you have lived. What do you like about where you’re currently living, in Miami? I moved almost six years ago to the States from Bogotá, Colombia. I have lived in New York, Colorado and Tennessee— wherever my work has taken me! I'm now based in Miami, where the weather is beautiful all year and where the art scene is growing. But I’m always excited and open to where life will be taking me next. What is your next dream destination? I love to travel and meet new people, new cultures... there's a lot of places I have left to experience. I would love to go next to China or Japan.
H Y D E PA R K C O M M U N I T Y
CHILDREN’S GALA BENEFITING CHILDREN’S HOSPITAL COLORADO Children's Gala was a fun-filled night featuring Colorado’s own OneRepublic. Longtime supporters Molly Broeren and Bill Mosher chaired this year’s gala, which hosted 1,400 guests. Children’s Gala fundraising allows Children’s Hospital Colorado to offer the very best care to children and families. One generous auction winner walked away with a “Glittering VIP Filmmaking” package presented by Hyde Park and IWC. The winner and a guest will travel to New York City to the Tribeca Film Festival, and attend a VIP celebrity dinner hosted by IWC. Along with VIP passes to the festival, the winner also received the IWC Portofino Men’s watch and a $5,000 gift card towards ladies jewelry.
WINGS OF HOPE MELANOMA RESEARCH FOUNDATION GALA The Melanoma Research Foundation (MRF) will host its third annual Wings of Hope for Melanoma Gala in Denver on Tuesday, April 29, 2014 at the Cable Center. Proceeds from the event will help the Melanoma Research Foundation’s continued efforts to support medical research in finding effective treatments for Melanoma. Gala co-chair and self-proclaimed fashionista Ann Marie Foonberg found out firsthand the trials and tribulations that come along with a Melanoma diagnosis in 2012, when her husband Michael was diagnosed with Stage 3 cancer. After an intense year-long battle, Ann Marie wanted a way to bring happiness to her life again. With the help of Hyde Park, she created custom-designed black and white diamond earrings that are both beautiful and support the charity near to her heart. These stunning earrings are now available at Hyde Park Jewelers in store and online, with a portion of the proceeds going directly to the National Melanoma Foundation.
T H E O R I G I N ATO R O F C U LT U R E D P E A R L S . S I N C E 1 8 9 3 .
H Y D E PA R K C O M M U N I T Y
ARTRAGEOUS GALA BENEFITING SCOTTSDALE CULTURAL COUNCIL In December, over 1,200 guests enjoyed food and music at the Scottsdale Cultural Council’s annual ARTrageous Benefit Gala at Scottsdale Center for the Performing Arts. The gala began with a hosted cocktail reception along with a raffle and silent auction. The grand prize included a $5,000 Armenta jewelry shopping spree at Hyde Park. Guests enjoyed a gourmet dinner and an exclusive concert by Grammy-winner Natalie Cole. Proceeds from the event benefited the nonprofit Scottsdale Cultural Council and the programs of Scottsdale Center for the Performing Arts, Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art (SMoCA) and Scottsdale Public Art.
60TH ANNIVERSARY JEWISH COMMUNITY CENTER GALA Nearly 500 guests arrived at Arizona’s Biltmore for the 60th Anniversary Jewish Community Center Gala event. Actor/comedian Kevin Pollak (center photo, on left) provided entertainment to guests and helped the Valley of the Sun Jewish Community Center raise over $140,000. Hyde Park donated a total of $6,000 in gift certificates for the event. The Valley of the Sun Jewish Community Center offers a wide range of educational, cultural, social, fitness and recreational programs for people of all ages and backgrounds.
BE MORE THAN NOTICED. “Best Men’s Fashion” Since 1997 - RANKING ARIZONA
FASHIONS ALBERTO, AG jeans, CANALI, CORNELIANI, ETON shirts, GARDEUR, GIORGIO ARMANI, NAT NAST, John SMEDLEY knits, Robert TALBOTT, ZANELLA, Ermenegildo ZEGNA, From A to Z, the best of Europe and the USA
SHOES ALDEN, GRAVATI, DONALD J PLINER, TO BOOT, ZEGNA
SERVICES Expert in-house tailoring Special made-to-measure dept.
PHOENIX SUNS HEAD COACH WWW.THECLOTHERIE.COM OPEN DAILY - 602.956.8600
THE BILTMORE FASHION PARK 2502 E. CAMELBACK ROAD, SUITE 169 PHOENIX AZ 85016
rank Bonanno found his passion early; he’s been cooking or working in restaurants most of his life. The aroma of pastries and pastas made by his Sicilian grandmother permeated Bonanno’s New Jersey home, where he and his mother tried out Julia Child recipes on the family. On weekends, his parents would bring him to explore unusual restaurants tucked into the corners in New York City. After he graduated from the school of finance at the University of Denver, Bonanno revisited that passion by earning a second degree at the Culinary Institute in Hyde Park, N.Y. “I had a great childhood. Most of who I am today comes from the food I was fortunate enough to be exposed to at a very young age.” You studied finance at the University of Denver, but went to the Culinary Institute in New York. What made you come back to Denver? Denver is a fantastic place to be—it’s sunny and alive, the people here are fit and happy, and there are endless opportunities for a good cook. What really brought me back, though, was the girl I fell in love with during my externship, who is now my wife of 13 years. You’re working on your 11th concept. How far outside the Denver area do you plan on reaching? I’d love to have a restaurant in the mountains, near a ski resort—maybe an Osteria Marco (because that’s exactly the kind of food I crave after a day of skiing). If I opened a spot outside Colorado, it would be near where I like to travel for fun: mountains or beaches. Do you think they need an Osteria in Maui? If your cooking career ended tomorrow, what would you do instead? I’d focus on golf and be a teaching pro. What do you consider to be your single greatest achievement? I don’t know if you can consider family an achievement, but that’s what I’m most proud of. What’s the best piece of advice anyone has ever given you? My father always said, “Work hard and keep your nose down.” When I moved to Denver for good, he told me not to worry about success. If you work hard, he said, success will follow. You have two boys; are they interested in cooking? They both like to cook, but Marco has the patience for it. Right now, he’s on a cocktail kick, which is embarrassing to admit. He’s not allowed to taste, but Marco likes to measure and mix for my wife and me. He’s only 10, but he makes a mean Manhattan. We hear you’re an avid watch collector. How did your watch collection start? My father gave me a Seiko for my fourth birthday. It seemed like such a grown up thing to own, like I was that much closer to manhood, my father—the works. What is your favorite watch and why?
frank BONANNO A passion for eating—and living—well.
My go-to watch is a Rolex Submariner. It’s not the fanciest Rolex—that’s not really my style— but the bezel is Mizuna green and it was a gift from my wife for my 40th birthday. That watch is not only beautiful, it’s significant, which is what a watch should be. Which watch means the most to you and why? Eleven years ago, my father gave me his Aerospace Breitling. His wrist was getting too small for it as he neared 80. Now that he’s gone
(he passed away just before Christmas), it carries even more meaning. That’s how it is with watches; they signify these moments and milestones. The Breitling is the silver on my dad’s wrist in my college years, on my wrist as I became a father. Someday one of my sons will wear it with his own memories of me, of his grandfather, of our shared history. What’s your ideal meal? I like to eat a big tuna Nicoise salad at the end of
the week, right out of the bowl I made it in, my wife and children laughing (or fighting) around me, drinking pinot grigio from a Ball jar. Those are the nights that mark my life. Is your show, Chef Driven, the next big thing for you, or just a side project? One of the managers at Osteria Marco, Chris McNeil, graduated from film school two years ago. This show is his vision; I’m just happy to have been invited to share it.
Quinoa Salad From Osteria Marco – Denver, Colorado Yields 4 entrée-size salads Ingredients for Quinoa 2 cups red quinoa grain 1/3 cup roasted garlic 1/4 cup roasted red tomatoes 1-2 shallots, roughly chopped 1 cup white wine 5 cups water 2 tsp salt For Garbonzo Beans 2 cups garbonzo beans, rinsed 2 Tbsp roasted garlic 2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 3/4 tsp smoked paprika 3/4 tsp parsley, chopped 3/4 tsp lemon zest
IMAGE BY RACHEL NOBREGA, FOOD IMAGE BY SCOTTIE DAVISON
For Red Wine Vinaigrette 1/2 cup red wine vinegar 2 tsp Dijon mustard 1 tsp Italian seasoning 2 Tbsp sugar 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil For Final Salad Assembly 4 cups quinoa, cooked and cooled 4 cups baby kale 4 cups baby spinach 1 cup roasted red tomatoes 1/4 cup English peas, blanched 1/4 cup Corona beans (giant lima beans) 1/4 cup Marcona almonds, toasted 1/4 cup prepared garbonzo beans 2 Tbsp red wine vinaigrette 2 tsp fresh lemon juice
Mizuna | Denver, CO | 303.832.4778
Tools Large saucepan, blender, large salad bowl, tongs, large serving plate Process For quinoa, purée roasted garlic with tomatoes, shallots and wine in a blender until smooth. In a large saucepan, combine purée, water and salt. Bring to a boil, add quinoa and reduce heat to medium. Cook the quinoa for 25 to 30 minutes, or until small white “tails” start to uncurl from the seed. Drain the quinoa, if necessary. Transfer quinoa to a cookie tray and cool in a refrigerator. For garbonzo beans, purée roasted garlic with olive oil, paprika and parsley. In a small bowl, toss the beans with the purée mixture and marinate for 1 hour. Garbonzo beans will keep for up to a week. For red wine vinaigrette, combine red wine vinegar, Dijon mustard, Italian seasoning and sugar in a blender. Puree until homogenized. Slowly add olive oil while blender is on low speed until dressing is emulsified. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate until ready to use. Dressing will keep for up to a month. To assemble salad, mix all ingredients in a large bowl and pour the dressing along the inside of the bowl. Toss and season with salt and pepper, to taste. Dress salad according to personal preferences. Salad is best when lightly dressed, not saturated. To Serve Mound the salad on a large serving plate and finish with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.
Luca D’Italia | Denver, CO | 303.832.6600
Osteria Marco | Denver, CO | 303.534.5855
Bones | Denver, CO | 303.860.2929
Green Russell | Denver, CO | 303.893.6505
Lou’s Foodbar | Denver, CO | 303.458.0336
Wednesday’s Pie | Denver, CO | 303.893.6505
Russell’s Smokehouse | Denver, CO | 720.524.8050
Vesper Lounge | Denver, CO | 720.328.0314
Bonanno Brothers | Lone Tree, CO | 303.799.8900
Salt & Grinder | Denver, CO | opening 2014
SAMIRA WILEY at Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week
MIKE COPOLA/GETTY IMAGES FOR MERCEDES-BENZ
CARLA GUGINO at the 65th Annual Primetime Emmy Awards
COURTESY OF NORMAN SILVERMAN
REGINA HALL at the Hollywood premiere of The Best Man Holiday 22
COURTESY OF SAZINGG AND KUUMBA
JULIETTE BINOCHE at the Cartier: Le Style et l’Histoire exhibition in Paris
P OIS MOI COLLECTION
KATE WINSLET at the BFI London Film Festival Labor Day screening
BEN PRUCHNIE FOR PARAMOUNT PICTURES INTL
COURTESY OF CHIMENTO
EMMA ROBERTS at the 2014 Vanity Fair Oscar Party
In this bold hue, there’s no chance of blending in.
EMMY ROSSUM at the BTJA 3rd Annual Critics’ Choice Awards 24
COURTESY OF NORMAN SILVERMAN
KELLY OSBOURNE at the 65th Annual Primetime Emmy Awards
COURTESY OF AMRAPALI
MIX In THE Freshen up your jewelry favorites.
Have a tennis bracelet that’s been sitting in the recesses of your jewelry box? Think your round, brilliant-cut, prong-set stud earrings look too traditional? Love your grandmother’s 1920s Art Deco diamond and platinum brooch but don’t know how to wear it alongside your contemporary jewelry? Spring 2014 is all about the art of the mix. There is a trend towards updating classics you already own (or want to own) by combining them with more fashionable styles, or adding a contemporary element to those pieces in your jewelry box that you thought were outdated. It’s all about personalizing your jewelry look, which means mixing old with new, antique heirloom with modern, and even throwing in some edgy pieces.
Here are three tips to help you get the most mileage— and style—from your jewelry box:
Inherit This Style
If you’re one of those lucky women who have inherited an elegant Art Deco brooch but can’t figure out how to incorporate it into your everyday jewelry wardrobe, here are a few intriguing ideas. You can fasten it onto an elongated diamond station necklace, or
Diamonds Will Always Be a Girl’s Best Friend
wear the brooch as a pendant on a satin cord (layered with a station necklace if you wish). Or pin the brooch to the side
If you own a (flexible diamond line-style) tennis bracelet from the late-’80s or early-’90s
of a dress, and complete the look with
that was once chic (worn with Armani pantsuits to power lunches or out to coffee with the
linear earrings that also recall an Art
other moms), it’s time to try mixing it up. Add status pieces like large links or thin cuffs
Deco influence—a pair with swing and
and bangles. These diamond line bracelets are injected with new life when worn with
movement. But don’t stop there: get
another classic, like the Cartier Love bracelet, on one side, and a thin bangle with a
creative with a double-finger ring or one
gemstone and diamond pavé surround on the other. For an edgier look, add a snake cuff
of those fashionable bracelet/ring
that slithers around your wrist. For the more sentimental, layer with a charm bracelet; if
creations that extends from your finger
you haven’t been filling one up for years, it’s never too late to start. Your wrist is the
to your wrist.
Love the sentimental designs of Victorian-era rings, but think you need to save them for a special occasion? Not so. Try stacking a Victorian cluster ring with mine-cut diamonds, or a new polished, rough-cut gray diamond ring from Todd Reed, and the look becomes current and playful. Or go for a garden theme, with a bold piece like Stephen Webster’s pavé diamond butterfly ring, worn with an antique snake ring on the same hand. Luckily, you have 10 fingers and limitless possibilities.
FROM TOP: IMAGES COURTESY OF PENNY PREVILLE, IVANKA TRUMP, STEPHEN WEBSTER
perfect place to mix metals—white, pink and yellow gold—and gemstones with diamonds.
HAPPY DIAMONDS COLLECTION
Emily Armenta’s business model may not be typical, but her company’s unique take on celebrating the beauty of women—both on the inside and out—is making its mark in the jewelry industry.
mily Armenta comes from a family of artists and has always had a lot of support to express herself through artwork. As a result, she says, “I have been designing, sketching and working with stones ever since I was a young girl. Designing jewelry has not only been a vehicle for me to express my creativity, but also my thoughts and emotions.” It wasn’t until she began an MBA program that she realized her passion could become a career path. “While taking an entrepreneurship class at Rice, I was given an assignment to create a fictitious company and write a business plan,” Armenta explains. “I chose to focus my project on my passion, which is designing jewelry. I was very fortunate to have the support of the school and an amazing mentor who not only believed in me, but also gave me a chance to fulfill my dream.” Since then, Armenta’s aesthetic has evolved and matured, and she has found deeper inspiration after reading the Spanish poetry of Fedrico Garcia Lorca, who wrote about a creative force that dwells within all of us, known as duende. He writes that duende “is a power and not a behavior; it is the struggle that one must endure to create something of greatness.” Armenta uses this principle as a starting point for her creative process. The results are her bold, striking designs primarily made of 18K and 22K yellow gold, 18K rose gold and “midnight” oxidized sterling silver with diamonds and gemstones. Armenta mixes her own yellow and rose golds to acquire the exact color she has envisioned. The company’s culture is equally driven by Armenta’s commitment to duende. She makes a point to hire and promote women who are talented, but not necessarily qualified in a traditional way. “I have chosen to hire women based on their passion and courage for life rather than their skill set,” says Armenta. “I hire people who have duende. I am so proud we have trained and educated every person at the studio, and they have blossomed into incredibly skilled craftsmen, each of whom are true artisans. “I cannot imagine outsourcing my art and missing out on the creativity that takes place every day. I am able to see firsthand how believing in duende can make the impossible a reality.”
interview art pieces. But what intrigued me most was her jewelry box, overflowing with Cartier, Tiffany, Van Cleef & Arpels: exquisite pieces from different eras that my grandfather bought her. I would touch them, try them on, dream about them. My other grandmother was an artist (she painted Limoges china) as was my mother. Ultimately, I chose a major in fine arts. I loved art history, re-living different eras. Describe your jewelry and the process to create it. Words that come to mind are intricate, romantic, elegant, timeless. I’m all about the detail: beading, engraving, twisting, layering, texture… My jewelry is made by artisans here in New York City: we start with an original model and most of the work is done by hand: engraving, stone setting, polishing, finishing. Depending on the piece, the process can take a few days to a few months. What inspires your designs? Travel. Nature. Architecture. Paintings. Fabrics. Lifestyle. Different civilizations (Egyptian, Byzantine, Ancient Greek, Russian…) How would you describe your personal style? What are your favorite jewelry pieces? There are two sides to me: very driven and practical, Preville but also romantic, very much behind the scenes on a girly-girl. My favorite pieces the new ad include a garland ring, a wide campaign scroll-y diamond cuff that I wear for black tie events, and a thin diamond bangle that I wear everyday. (It’s part of my body!) I also love a Harry Winston ring with diamonds from the 1930s that my grandmother wore, and a blue star sapphire that my husband’s mother got from her mother…
Penny Preville’s jewelry is as feminine and fabulous as she is!
You work with your husband and two sons: how hard is it to combine business and family? It can be challenging! Fortunately, we have separate roles: I do the design/creative and Jay (who started the business with me) manages financial/operations. Our two sons Skyler (34) and Derek (29) are learning all aspects and will hopefully find their niches. I didn’t expect the boys to join us: growing up, they were into sports and showed little interest in the business.
KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
orld renowned for its elegance, innovation and unique attention to detail, Penny Preville jewelry has been worn by fashionable women from Jackie Onassis to Nicole Kidman to Blake Lively. Here, an exclusive interview with the designer. How did you first get interested in jewelry design? As a little girl, I’d go into New York City every Sunday to visit my grandmother (Adele Preville, a self-described “Hungarian Gypsy”) at her Park Avenue apartment. It was filled with amazing artwork: Chinese screens, Buddhas, rare 30
What does a woman’s jewelry say about her? It’s reflects her style and individuality; it provides insight into who she is as a person: spiritual, sentimental, practical... In fact, I love watching a woman select jewelry: when she finds the perfect piece, it’s magical; it brings out something in her soul.
M etropolis collec tion 18 K B r u s h e d Ye ll o w G o l d 路 D iamo n d s
i va nk a trump
NEARLY NUDE A rosy outlook on spring fashion.
4 1. IPPOLITA 18K gold Rock Candy Gelato rectangular stone hoops in mother of pearl. 2. PENNY PREVILLE 18K rose gold pendant with oval moonstone and diamonds, shown on diamond station chain. 3. PESAVENTO DNA pink sterling silver necklace. 4. ROBERTO COIN Pois Moi 18K rose gold bangles and square rings with diamonds. 5. TACORI Pretty in Pink marquiseshaped round diamond eternity band. 6. CARTIER Tank Anglaise medium model, 39.2 x 29.8 mm 18K rose gold case and bracelet with diamonds.
RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY ACCESSORIESDIRECTIONS.COM
E V E R Y T H I N G
THE CENTER OF MY UNIVERSE™ FROM FOREVERMARK
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Less than one percent of the world ’s diamonds c an c arr y the Forevermark inscription — a promise that each is beautif ul, rare and responsibly sourced .
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S H E
Forevermark is part of the De Beers group of companies.
Feminine flair is always on trend.
1. FOREVERMARK Center of my Universe necklace with round diamond and round diamond halo. 2. EFVA ATTLING Mini Twosome and Stars 18K yellow gold necklace with diamonds. EFVA ATTLING Mini Pencez de Moy (Think of Me) 18K yellow gold necklace. 3. RESERVE COLLECTION Long pearl necklace in 18K white gold with deco diamond motifs. 4. MIKIMOTO Akoya cultured pearl stud earrings in 18K white gold. 5. TACORI Promise bangle bracelet in sterling silver and 18K rose gold. 6. CHANEL Premiere, 20x28 mm steel and diamond case, mother-of-pearl dial, steel chain bracelet, water resistant to 3 bar.
RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY ACCESSORIESDIRECTIONS.COM
2 1 MUTED METALS
This shining style is anything but dull.
1. IVANKA TRUMP Metropolis 18K yellow gold and diamond drop earrings. 2. ARMENTA granulated bangles in blackened sterling silver and 18K yellow gold. 3. MARCO BICEGO Delacati 18K hand-engraved yellow gold pendant necklace. 4. PESAVENTO Pixel sterling silver ring. 5. ADOLFO COURRIER Thin Choco stack ring set in 18K rose gold, enamel and diamonds. 6. IPPOLITA 18K gold and black sterling silver Notte bangle set.
Statement jewels make it a night to remember.
5 1. ROBERTO COIN 18K rose gold oval cocktail ring with diamonds, amethyst and mother of pearl. 2. KWIAT drop earrings with white fancy and pavĂŠ yellow diamonds set in 18K yellow gold. 3. IPPOLITA Sterling silver Stella two-stone ring in chrysoprase doublet with diamonds. 4. PENNY PREVILLE 18K white gold and diamond drop earrings. 5. MARCO BICEGO 18K hand-engraved yellow gold bangle with multicolored rose-cut stones. 6. IVANKA TRUMP Patras blue sapphire earrings in 18K white gold with diamonds.
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f loral fantasy Defining statement jewels of the new spring chic. PHOTOGRAPHY BY EDWIN SANTA
Armenta Old World collection moonstone earrings, necklace, rings and bangles
Stephen Webster Murder She Wrote collection earrings, necklace, ring and bracelet
Zoccai Candy collection rings and necklace (shown as bracelet)
Penny Preville True Blue collection earrings and necklace and Classic collection bangles Photography and creative by Edwin Santa. Makeup and hair by Eliut Tarin. Styling by Jennifer Ferkenhoff. Model Katharina Linke, Wilhelmina Models.
WATCHES GETTY 1 PASIEKA
A C C E NT M A G A Z I N E S P E C I A L S E C T I O N S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 014
10 HOT WATCHES Todayâ€™s finest watchmakers are pulling out all the stops when it comes to timepiece design.
CARTIER Calibre de Cartier Diver, 42 mm 18K pink gold case, black dial partially snailed with XII in superluminova, black rubber strap, water resistant to 30 bars
IWC Aquatimer Chronograph Edition Galapagos Islands, 44 mm steel case, black dial, black rubber strap, water resistant to 30 bars
ROLEX Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II, 44 mm in stainless steel with Ring Command rotatable bezel with blue ceramic disc and Oysterlock bracelet
Patek Philippe Nautilus, 40.5 mm rose gold case, blue gradient dial with gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating, steel and rose gold bracelet
BAUME & MERCIER Clifton, 43 mm polished and satin-finished stainless steel case, sun satin-finished and snailed silver-colored dial, brown alligator strap, water resistant to 5 bars
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Unique Travel Time, 42 mm pink gold case, silvered dial, alligator leather strap, water resistant to 5 bars
BREITLING Super Avenger II, 48 mm steel case, black dial, steel bracelet, water resistant to 30 bars
OMEGA Speedmaster Moonwatch, 44.25 mm black ceramic case, black dial, coated nylon fabric strap, water resistant to 5 bars
Longines Master Collection, 44 mm stainless steel case, silver “barleycorn” dial, alligator strap, water resistant to 3 bars
PANERAI Luminor 1950 Chrono Monopulsante Left-Handed 8 Days Titanio, 47 mm brushed titanium case, brown dial with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers, brown leather strap
WHEELS by David A. Rose
Taking a cue from its parent company, Tudor enters the world of motor sports sponsorship.
NEED FOR SPEED
Tudor Grantour Chrono Fly-Back
RACING IMAGE BY STEPHAN COOPER
nyone who knows anything about motor sports will know and Grand-Am Rolex Sports Car Series and the American Le Mans Series. The appreciate the contribution Rolex has made over the years. Rolex is two had been competing for fans, sponsors, teams and drivers since 1999, but the official timepiece at the Sebring International Raceway and the as a single series they have now created one of the most exciting sports car Mobil 1 Twelve Hours of Sebring, official timepiece at The 24 Hours of Le races in the world. Mans, and title sponsor of the annual Rolex 24 at Daytona. And in 2013, the “For years Tudor has been inspired by motor sports,” says brand brand made history when it became the global partner and official timepiece manager Russell Kelly. “This new partnership allows us to elevate our of Formula 1, the pinnacle of motor sports. commitment to sports car racing. This is the perfect alignment between Rolex also made headlines last year for another reason: the partners dedicated to performance and precision.” announcement that it would re-launch its storied Tudor brand in the U.S., International sports car racing brings together some of the most and promote it as the title partner for the new Tudor United SportsCar sophisticated machinery in existence with the best drivers in the world. Championship. Hans Wilsdorf, Rolex’s founder, Unlike other motor sports races, which run for a registered the name “The Tudor” in 1926 to honor specific number of miles or laps, sports car series are 2014 TUDOR the Tudor period in England. He established run for three, six, 12 and 24 hours. Each car must UNITED SPORTSCAR Montres Tudor SA in 1946 with the idea of offering utilize a minimum of two drivers for the shorter CHAMPIONSHIP the quality of Rolex timepieces at a lower price. races, and can use up to five drivers per car for 24UPCOMING RACE SCHEDULE Today, though Tudor is part of the Rolex Group, it is hour events. They race in all weather conditions and May 4 Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca operated separately and continues to uphold its the pace remains intense throughout the entire May 31 Detroit Belle Isle philosophy of affordable luxury. To celebrate its event. With the merger of the two series for 2014, June 7 Kansas Speedway colorful history, Tudor has introduced the Heritage there is no doubt that the Tudor United SportsCar June 29 Watkins Glen International Collection, featuring updated versions of iconic Championship will present race fans in North July 13 Canadian Tire Motorsports Park pieces like the Tudor Heritage Chrono and the Tudor America with the most exciting racing they’ve ever July 25 Indianapolis Motor Speedway Heritage Advisor. seen, while allowing watch lovers to become August 10 Road America The Tudor United SportsCar Championship was reacquainted with the luxury, quality and August 24 Virginia International Raceway formed by the merging of two rival U.S. events: the sophistication of the Tudor brand.
©2013 movado group, inc.
THE BOLD TITANIUMS TIME REVEALS A NEW MASCULINITY. MOVADO BOLD® BRACELET WATCH WITH 46MM TITANIUM CASE. BLUE DIAL/ORANGE ACCENTS.
SERVICE by Stuart Leuthner
WATCHES ARE NOT PERPETUAL MOTION MACHINES
trapped to your wrist, a fine wristwatch marks off the hours, minutes and seconds with each beat of its mechanical heart. Representing more than three centuries of technology, craftsmanship and art, it is a precision instrument designed to provide a lifetime of accurate and reliable service. But a watch is, after all, a machine, and like any machine it requires periodic maintenance. Tucked away in a mechanical watch's case, depending on its functions, are 150 to 250 diminutive parts. Power is supplied by a tightly coiled
mainspring, wound manually or automatically by a weighted rotor activated by the movement of the wrist or arm. A series of gears (watchmakers refer to them as â€œthe wheel trainâ€?) transmits the spring's power to a group of components called an escapement. The pallet lever controls the spring's power, locking and unlocking the escape wheel. A fork at the other end of the pallet lever engages the balance wheel. Controlled by a fine spiral balance (or hair) spring, the balance wheel swings back and forth at a consistent rate between 18,000 and 36,000 times per hour. These precise oscillations are
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Laser Inscription Registry Number GIA 16354621 Natural Diamond Not Synthetic
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SERVICE transmitted to the hands to measure the hours, minutes and seconds. Worn on the wrist, this kinetic assemblage described as "one of the most complicated pieces of mechanical engineering ever produced by man” is exposed to the perils of the real world, including shock, moisture and dust. Lubricants reduce wear and ensure smooth performance, but they thicken over time and lose effectiveness. As parts wear from normal use, friction creates microscopic particles that act as an abrasive. Although watch cases are machined to extremely close tolerances, fluctuations in temperature can affect the metal and create imperceptible fissures that allow contaminants inside the case. In rare cases, a part will fail and have to be replaced.
a diver descends, the pressure increases by one atmosphere. At 66 feet underwater (20 meters) the pressure is three atmospheres, etc. These ratings should not be taken literally. A watch rated at three ATM can be worn while washing dishes, but will not survive a 30-meter dive. A five ATM watch can be worn in the shower, or swimming in shallow water. A 10 ATM watch is suitable for recreational diving, and a watch rated at 15 ATM is designed to tolerate the demands of scuba diving. "If water, especially salt water, gets inside any watch it will probably destroy the movement," Bodin explains. "A watch's water resistance should be tested every two years, but if the owner spends a great deal of time in the water it should be checked annually. A watch exposed to chlorine or salt water should be rinsed in fresh water, and if you see condensation under the crystal, bring the watch in for service immediately." Once the watch passes the water-resistance test, the bracelet or strap is reattached to the watch and it is secured to a rotating apparatus for three days. This simulates wearing the watch on the wrist and, if it is equipped with an automatic movement, tests the winding mechanism. After a final inspection, the watch is returned to its owner, ready to resume its timekeeping duties.
“Oh ye seekers after perpetual motion, how many vain chimeras have you pursued? Go and take your place with the alchemists.” —Leonardo da Vinci
WHEN AND WHERE TO SERVICE A FINE WATCH There is no absolute rule dictating when a mechanical watch should be serviced, but there are several guidelines to consider. First, find out what the manufacturer suggests. After all, they produced the watch and will provide recommendations on the care and service requirements for their products. Read the owner's manual and familiarize yourself with your watch's operation, functions, and also its limitations. Second, consider how your watch is used. A sport watch worn by a weekend sailor will be subjected to a great deal more stress than a dress watch worn to the office or theatre. Scheduled maintenance will always be more cost effective than waiting until a watch requires a major repair. Igor Bodin, Hyde Park's master watchmaker and technical director, advocates for mechanical automatic watches to be serviced by an authorized service center every four to five years. "It is important to remember," Bodin likes to say, "that your car is parked in a garage over night. A watch runs 24 hours a day, seven days a week." Complete service starts with a trained customer service associate who begins by noting the watch's model, condition and any problems the customer might be experiencing. The associate then turns the timepiece over to the watchmaker who performs a thorough examination of the watch's bracelet and case. After determining what service or repairs are required, the watchmaker disassembles the movement down to the very last screw, and the parts are cleaned in a machine with a timed series of chemical baths. After the cleaned parts are inspected, the movement is reassembled, lubricated and regulated to the manufacturer's criteria. While the movement is being serviced, the case, bezel and bracelet are cleaned ultrasonically and polished to original specifications. Once the movement and case are reunited, the watch is checked for waterresistance in a chamber that duplicates the pressure exerted on a watch worn underwater. Screw-down crowns, screw-down case backs and rubber, nylon and Teflon gaskets and seals help keep the water out, but there is no such thing as a fully waterproof watch. Water-resistance, noted by a depth rating (in meters and ATMs) is usually printed on the watch's case and dial. This is the amount of pressure the watch can withstand before leaking. ATM stands for atmospheres. At sea level, a watch is subjected to one atmosphere. For every 33 feet (10 meters)
QUARTZ MOVEMENTS A quartz watch has far fewer parts than a mechanical watch, but that does not mean it does not require service. Potential problems include normal aging of components, loose solder connections and damage from dead batteries. Most batteries will last two or three years before needing to be replaced, but battery life is unpredictable. Bodin advises changing the battery every two years to avoid a disaster caused by a leaking battery. Since the case has to be opened to change the battery, a quality quartz watch's case should not be opened by the owner or trusted to a shopping mall battery swapper. A professional watchmaker uses tools that allow him to open and close the watch without damaging the case. During the battery replacement, the watchmaker will also clean the battery contacts, examine the mechanism and test for water resistance. Other considerations for owners of fine watches, to help to protect your investment: If a manual-wound watch is worn daily, it should be wound every day, preferably at the same time. Watch-winders that simulate the motions of a person's arm are available for owners of automatic watches. If you are going to dig up the garden, split wood or play tennis, a fine watch should be left on the dresser or in the locker. Watches do not like hot water and they should not be worn while taking a shower. Note that soap and shampoo can compromise the gaskets and seals. Owning a fine watch is a joy. A fine watch reflects its owner's self-expression and respect for centuries of horology, but along with pride of ownership comes responsibility. Routine care and maintenance preserves a watch's appearance, performance and your investment. Take proper care of your watch and it will survive the test of time.
METAL TWISTED G-SHOCK
MTGS1000BD-1A Stainless Steel
TRIPLE G RESIST VIBRATION RESISTANCE SHOCK RESISTANCE CENTRIFUGAL FORCE RESISTANCE metal twisted g-shock A fusion of resin and metal encompassed in a case that has our trademark shock resistance with extraordinary elegance results in the perfect combination of our technologies and impeccable craftsmanship.
ÂŠ2014 CASIO AMERICA, INC.
WATCHMAKING by Jack Forster
HOOKED ON CLASSICS
Heritage-themed watchmaking in the 21st century.
n 1969, the first quartz watch (the Seiko Astron, which cost as much as a car at the time) was introduced, and by the mid-1970s mechanical watches seemed to be on their way out. But today they’re back in a big way, and some of the most popular styles recall the most classic designs from the past. Watchmaking has been around for nearly 500 years, and for the last century, wristwatches have dominated personal timekeeping. But they didn’t really take off until after the first World War, when their widespread use by officers as a more practical alternative to the pocket watch made them respectable for men to wear. (Before then, they were called “wristlet” watches and were worn almost exclusively by women.) A fine mechanical wristwatch—a tiny, high-precision machine—was considered a masterpiece of miniaturization, and as the wristwatch evolved
technically, especially during the 1950s and ’60s, certain classic forms evolved too. One of the most important was the extra-thin dress watch. Extra-thin watches couldn’t be made by just anybody; they required high precision and care to assemble thanks to the unforgiving tolerances, so a thin, gold dress watch was considered a de rigeur accessory. The development of better waterproofing techniques led to the evolution of sports watches that could be worn by divers, and specialist watches (particularly chronographs), which combined the functions of a watch and stopwatch, began to be made for pilots, motorsports enthusiasts, and were even worn into space by both American and Soviet astronauts. Extra-thin watches seemed a dying breed, even during the renaissance of mechanical watchmaking. As recently as 10 years ago, men’s taste ran strongly
IMAGE COURTESY OF JAEGER-LECOULTRE
Jaeger-LeCoultre master engraver Dominique Vuez
WATCHMAKING in favor of large, aggressively styled watches, but in the last five years watch lovers have rediscovered the pleasures of the classic dress watch. The evolution of thin watches goes back a long way, to the 18th century, when some of the first thin pocket watches were made by Pierre de Beaumarchais (who also wrote the Figaro plays, one of which was turned into the opera The Barber of Seville, by Rossini). Making a true extra-thin watch that still keeps time well is a huge challenge. Everything from the mainspring to the case itself has to be built differently, in order to maintain the ability to keep precise time in a space that may be half the thickness, or less, of an ordinary dress watch. For this reason, true extra-thin watches tend to be made by companies that have been in the business for a while—long enough to build up the necessary expertise. For real connoisseurs, they’re desirable not just for the technical skill it takes to make them, or their incredible elegance (they’re still the only really correct watch for formal events, James Bond’s Rolex-with-tux notwithstanding), but also for the heritage of the companies that make them.
One of the least-known but most interesting pieces of pilot’s watch history is from an even more unlikely source: Cartier. Cartier’s most famous watch is, of course, the Tank (first sold in 1918 and in production ever since, speaking of classic dress watches), but it’s not often realized that the Santos was originally designed as a pilot’s watch, for the great aviation pioneer Alberto SantosDumont. Santos-Dumont, one of the first to successfully build and fly a heavierthan-air craft, was a friend to Louis Cartier. When he complained that a pocket watch wasn’t exactly practical for flying, Louis Cartier made a wristwatch for him, which Santos-Dumont wore while flying as early Panerai Radiomir as 1906. Though the watch has been made in a huge Composite Black Seal 3 Days Automatic variety of styles, the basic design’s still the same. It’s fascinating to note that in addition to being one of the Cartier Santos, original and current most successful watch models of all time, the Santos was also the first pilot’s watch. Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Diver’s watches are loved and worn by many who
What’s old is new again. Classic watch styles endure the test of time. Think Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Breguet, Piaget, and of course, Patek Philippe. intage-style chronographs are, for many, a reminder of some of the most important events in motorsports, with names like Daytona and Carrera representing both iconic competitions and the watches favored by drivers and enthusiasts. Although vintage-style dress chronographs are popular, the lion’s share of attention these days goes to sports chronographs, including models by companies like Rolex, Tudor and TAG Heuer which either revive favorite designs from the past, or which have actually never gone out of production (the Rolex Daytona is a case in point). For their part, pilot’s watches have remained one of the most enduringly appealing of all watch types. In the explosion of interest in civil aviation postWWII, some of today’s most memorable designs were first created, including Breitling’s Navitimer and the Rolex GMT Master (first made for Pan Am aircrews). Ironically, one of the most popular aviator’s watches of all time—the Omega Speedmaster Professional—was first designed for motorsports enthusiasts (its tachymetric bezel is designed to calculate average speed over a measured mile). But it became immortalized in watchmaking history as the timepiece worn by all Apollo crews, and it’s still flight-qualified by NASA today.
never dive, though plenty of amateur and professional divers still use them, as a back-up to modern wrist-worn dive computers. They’re popular for both their rugged good looks and inherent durability. Not just any watch can be called a “diver’s watch”; there is actually an international standard which specifies, among other things, a 200-meter minimum water-resistance, shock resistance, and anti-magnetic resistance, as well as a certain minimum visibility in the dark, and a mandatory rotating timing bezel. Thanks to the rich history of the development of undersea exploration—and undersea warfare—in the 20th century, there are a wealth of choices, including the Rolex Submariner (in production continuously since it was introduced in 1954, and one of the most enduring designs of all time). As with the Santos, some of the earliest diver’s watches may be a surprise. Those who don’t know Panerai might dismiss their Radiomir and Luminor designs as mere exercises in style, but in fact they’re designs that originated in the 1950s (Luminor) and the 1930s (Radiomir), representing some of the first true diver’s watches ever made. Whether you’re looking for a watch that’s rich in history, or just a greatlooking timepiece that recalls the post-World War II Golden Age of mechanical watchmaking, there’s never been a better time to be a watch lover.
PARTNERSHIPS by Laurie Kahle
When watch brands partner with world-class sporting events, every microsecond counts.
Omega Sochi Petrograd
rom race tracks to track and field, the tiniest fraction of a second separates winners from losers in the sporting world. Through partnerships with premier events, top watch brands apply generations of expertise to develop cutting-edge timing technologies that heighten accuracy both in the arena and on your wrist. At the 1932 Games in Los Angeles, when Omega began its longstanding partnership with the Olympics as official timekeeper, 30 chronograph stopwatches were necessary in order to accurately time each event. “Back then it was the same technology you could buy in the store,” explains Stephen Urquhart, the company’s president. Its latest timing advancement is the Quantum Timer, which, remarkably, can measure one microsecond (one millionth of a second). To commemorate this year’s Sochi Games, the brand released limited editions of its Planet Ocean model and a retro Sochi Petrograd dress watch. When Oracle Team USA won last year’s America’s Cup, its crew wore TAG Heuer’s Aquaracer 72, an unprecedented digital chronograph that provided real-time data through wireless integration with the boat’s onboard computers. Each piece was programmed for each sailor’s specific role, to
TAG Heuer Aquaracer 72
provide information on boat speed, true wind speed, direction and angle, and much more. Yachting is one of many sports partnerships at Rolex, but the brand is most famously aligned with motorsports, an affiliation that dates back to the 1930s, when Sir Malcolm Campbell set a world land-speed record while wearing a Rolex Oyster. In 1959, Rolex partnered with Daytona International Speedway, a relationship that spurred the development of its famous Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona. The model’s 50th anniversary last year was marked with a limited edition in platinum. Rolex’s other motorsport sponsorships include 24 Hours of Le Mans, Goodwood Revival (UK) and, most recently, Formula 1. The original kind of horsepower is still celebrated by Longines, which traces its synergy with equestrian sports to 1878, when it produced a chronograph engraved with a jockey and his mount. The timepiece, which tracked seconds, quickly became popular among equestrians and was even used by event judges. This year, Longines continues that tradition as First Official Timekeeper and Watch of the Triple Crown, playing an active role timing the Kentucky Derby, Preakness Stakes and Belmont Stakes.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona
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Many leading arts institutions now regularly highlight fine and contemporary jewelry from the 19th and 20th centuries—and visitors have taken note.
or the past three years, the Boston Museum of Fine Arts has served up Jewels, Gems, and Treasures: Ancient to Modern (through June 1), drawn from the museum’s over 20,000-piece collection of jewelry. “Not only is this exhibit bringing a lot of visitors to the museum, but there’s now more respect for jewelry in the art world. It’s no longer considered something just for women [to wear],” says Yvonne Markowitz, the Rita J. Kaplan and Susan B. Kaplan Curator of Jewelry at the MFA. While Markowitz’s next exhibition will focus on the museum’s collection of ancient Nubian jewelry, come September, more 20thcentury jewelry will be on display at the MFA as part of an upcoming exhibition devoted to Hollywood fashion and glamour. New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art, which has long been known for showing modern jewels, recently put together Jewels by JAR, the first large-scale exhibition of the exquisite work of Paris-based jeweler Joel Rosenthal. “If you look at Joel’s work, it’s like sculpture, it’s three-dimensional,” says associate curator Jane Adlin. “There’s no difference between someone like Joel and
Frank Stella or Anthony Caro. It’s just that Joel is working in gemstones.” The Met will soon be showing another exhibit curated by Adlin, International Contemporary Jewelry from The Donna Schneier Collection, from May 13 through August 31. It will feature more than 100 pieces from the 1960s onward, designed by 88 different artists from 17 countries. Another museum at the forefront of bringing contemporary jewelry to the masses is New York’s Museum of Arts and Design, which will feature Multiple Exposures: Jewelry and Photography from June 24, 2014 through January 18, 2015. This ambitious exhibit focuses in part on how art jewelry and technology can collide. “Art jewelry is often idea-driven, so an exhibition can lend itself to a theme or aesthetic,” says Ursula Ilse-Neuman, the museum’s curator of
Above: Armband (bazuband). Indian, late 17th–early 18th century. Gold, enamel and emeralds. Left: Heraldic Maltese Cross Brooch, 1964. Cabochon green onyx, circular-cut-diamond and sapphire center surrounded by coral arms with circular-cut diamonds and gold. By David Webb, courtesy of private collector.
TOP: PHOTOGRAPH © MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS, BOSTON. BOTTOM: COURTESY OF NORTON MUSEUM OF ART.
BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON
SEREIN 16 DIAMOND SEREIN 16 DIAMOND TWO-TONE
jewelry. “That’s what makes it intriguing to our visitors. This kind of jewelry is not just about decorating the body or finding the right accessory for your green dress.” In other cases, leading jewelry makers are arranging for their most beautiful wares to be shown in museums. Some glorious vintage Tiffany pieces are part of the Museum of the City of New York’s Gilded New York exhibit (through November 2014), which can be found in the new Tiffany and Co. Foundation Gallery; Cartier recently organized an exhibition of its finest works for the Grand Palais in Paris; Van Cleef & Arpels put together A Quest for Beauty, which closed in February at California’s Bowers Museum of Art; and the Norton Museum of Art in West Palm Beach, Florida recently
showcased David Webb: Society’s Jeweler, featuring over 80 examples of the master craftsman’s work from the 1960s and 1970s.
Clockwise from top left: 1. Emerald and diamond shell brooch. Seashell, Cabochon emeralds, diamonds. David Webb, courtesy of Primavera Gallery. 2. Tiffany & Co., perfume bottle, ca. 1895. Gold, diamonds, rock crystal, quartz, enamel. Tiffany & Co. Archives, A1999.57. 3. Ceremonial elephant brooch, 1964. Mabé pearl, carved rubies, circular-cut diamonds, carved and circular-cut emeralds, off-white enamel, platinum and gold. David Webb, courtesy of Hollis Reh & Shariff. 4. Marcus & Co. necklace, 1900. Gold, natural pearls, demantoid garnet, enamel. Courtesy of Siegelson, New York. 5. Marjorie Merriweather Post brooch. Possibly by Oscar Heyman & Bros. (American, founded in 1912). For Marcus & Co. (American, 1892–1941). American, late 1920s. Platinum, diamond and emerald.
The Aurora Butterfly of Peace Perhaps the most unusual jewelry exhibition of the moment is The Aurora Butterfly of Peace currently on view through June 1 at the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County. Artist Harry Rodman and curator Alan Bronstein spent 12 years assembling the 240-piece collection of natural colored fancy diamonds from around the globe, one stone at a time, and shaping them into a butterfly. “The Aurora Butterfly of Peace is both an exquisite artistic creation and a valuable scientific collection,” says Dr. Eloïse Gaillou, NHM’s associate curator of the museum’s Gems and Mineral Collection. “A diamond’s flaws and impurities offer clues into the geological conditions that have dubbed diamonds ‘messengers of the deep earth.’ ”
1. IMAGE BY ILAN RUBIN COURTESY OF NORTON MUSEUM OF ART. 2. IMAGE COURTESY OF MOCNY. 3. IMAGE COURTESY OF NORTON MUSEUM OF ART. 4. IMAGE COURTESY OF MOCNY. 5. PHOTOGRAPH © MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS, BOSTON. WILLIAM FRANCIS WARDEN FUND, MARSHALL H. GOULD FUND, FRANK B. BEMIS FUND, MARY S. AND EDWARD JACKSON HOLMES FUND, JOHN H. AND ERNESTINE A. PAYNE FUND, OTIS NORCROSS FUND, HELEN AND ALICE COLBURN FUND, WILLIAM E. NICKERSON FUND, ARTHUR TRACY CABOT FUND, EDWIN E. JACK FUND, FREDERICK BROWN FUND, ELIZABETH MARIE PARAMINO FUND IN MEMORY OF JOHN F. PARAMINO, BOSTON SCULPTOR, MORRIS AND LOUISE ROSENTHAL FUND, HARRIET OTIS CRUFT FUND, H.E. BOLLES FUND, SETH K. SWEETSER FUND, HELEN B. SWEENEY FUND, ERNEST KAHN FUND, ARTHUR MASON KNAPP FUND, JOHN WHEELOCK ELLIOT AND JOHN MORSE ELLIOT FUND, SUSAN CORNELIA WARREN FUND, MARY L. SMITH FUND, SAMUEL PUTNAM AVERY FUND, ALICE M. BARTLETT FUND, BENJAMIN PIERCE CHENEY DONATION, FRANK M. AND MARY T.B. FLETCHER LITTLE. BOTTOM LEFT: IMAGE COURTESY OF NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM OF LA COUNTY.
Think of it as your
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ennifer Probert has been in love with fashion forever, and her lifelong dream has been to become a fashion designer in Paris. “We try to give her as many experiences as we can to be exposed to the world of fashion,” says Greg Probert, Jennifer’s father. “She helps all the women in our family and friends with fashion advice and watches every fashion show on TV.” So, when Greg came across the New York Fashion Week Signature Ticket package from Inspirato, he knew it was a must for his daughter. “This trip was all about Jennifer,” Probert says. “I have no fashion sense at all so I was just along for the ride!” This kind of life-changing, dream-fulfilling activity has become a welcome addition to today’s travel industry. Termed “experiential travel,” the trend has gained increasing traction amongst travelers over the past few years. 2014 is expected to be a particularly big year for the concept, with travelers looking for vacation opportunities that allow them to deeply immerse themselves in an activity, culture, event, or even a remote location. Inspirato’s Fashion Week package is a top-tier example of experiential travel, with a focus on carefully curated, tasteful, luxurious experiences. A part of the private club’s Signature Ticket program, access to New York Fashion Week is one of many once-in-a-lifetime possibilities that Inspirato is
Inspirato founder and CEO Brent Handler and his family were aboard the club’s first members-only cruise to the Mediterranean in 2013. Inspirato’s next private Eastern Mediterranean cruise will set sail in July 2014, taking members to only the best ports as part of the club’s custom itinerary.
Making dreams come true.
working to make available to its members. “Experiencing something new and inspiring has always been an essential part of travel,” explains Brent Handler, founder and CEO of Inspirato. “These additions to our Signature Collections help us connect with our members in a whole new way, providing them with truly remarkable opportunities they couldn’t find anywhere else.” Meeting the desires of its members has always been a top priority for the luxury destination club. Inspirato has become known for its stunning Signature Residences, a collection of luxurious vacation homes around the world. The residences provide Inspirato guests with the space and
Greek ports not usually included in a single itinerary. “By planning all-encompassing experiences from the ground up for our members, we’re able to ensure that every detail is accounted for,” Handler says. A similar Antarctica expedition is also planned for January 2016. Lee Vickers, who heads up Inspirato’s Signature Ticket, emphasizes the importance of having diverse offerings available to members. “We really want these experiences to feel as once-in-a-lifetime as possible. Of course, that means different things to different people,” Vickers says. “So, we have options that range from very wellness-centric, to backstage meet-and-greets at concerts, to VIP treatment at major sporting
Left: Jennifer Probert enjoys a private shopping experience with designer Joanna Mastroianni as part of Inspirato’s Signature Ticket experience. Right: Greg Probert and his daughter Jennifer meet with designers Keren Craig and Georgina Chapman during the Marchesa runway show at New York Fashion Week.
convenience of a private vacation home, but with the added benefit of Inspirato’s Signature Service, including on-site concierges who manage everything from making restaurant reservations to booking babysitters to pre-stocking the home’s kitchen with members’ favorite foods. “With our Signature Residences, we were already providing our members with a personalized, seamless experience,” Handler says of the transition to the new Signature offerings. “Of course, people still love ‘traditional’ vacations that involve pool time and relaxation. But we’ve found that our members often want something more — they want to return home having experienced something incredible, and unforgettable.” ignature Experiences are customized trips that Inspirato has produced from the ground up. An example from 2013 is Inspirato’s Wellness Retreat, which was hosted by yoga pro Mandy Ingber and nutrition guru Keri Glassman at the Esperenza Resort near Cabo San Lucas. Members participated in engaging, interactive classes with both, in addition to receiving personalized one-on-one training. The beautiful location didn’t hurt, either. The trip was so successful that a 2014 edition in another desirable location is already in the works. For members looking for something more culturally-minded, Inspirato has charted an entire Silversea luxury cruise ship for a week-long, membersonly journey through the Eastern Mediterranean, complete with Inspiratodesigned deck parties and excursions. The summer 2014 trip will take members from Istanbul to Athens, including stops in celebrated Turkish and
events.” Signature Ticket is a key factor in making this happen, and an important complement to Inspirato’s Signature Experiences. While Experiences are completely created and managed by the Inspirato team, Ticket provides V.I.P access and immersive experiences to existing, high-profile events. Inspirato Ticket has already taken Inspirato members to the Golden Globes, the Super Bowl, and The Masters. An exclusive Kentucky Derby experience will be held in May. “Here’s the way we’re thinking about it: if you’re going to the Kentucky Derby once in your life, we want you to have the most amazing time possible,” Vickers said. “We’re giving members a curated weekend with a real insider’s perspective.” This attention to detail has always been essential to Inspirato’s offerings. “It has always been important for us to give our members the best of the best,” Handler says. “These offerings are very customized to our members, and to what really speaks to them.” Take Jennifer Probert’s experience. In addition to getting up close and personal to one of the biggest fashion events in the world, she was able to live out her love of fashion in a brand new way. “Our members see these experiences as some of the most important investments that they can make,” Handler says. “It’s not just about the exclusivity. It’s about sharing something incredible with your friends and family. It’s trips like these that you’ll remember forever.” For more information, please visit inspirato.com or call 720.465.3276.
EXPLORE THE LITTLE LUXURIES THE WORLD HAS TO OFFER. DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON
From its venerable position on the Promenade des Anglais, the very grand Hotel Negresco in Nice, France has epitomized Côte d’Azur style for over 100 years. Collected behind the lofty facade is 400 years of French culture and art including works from the reign of Louis XIII and avantgarde sculptures (Picasso and Dali often stayed here). After viewing the hotel’s treasures, guests can watch the chic passing Riviera scene while sipping rosé in the outdoor lounge. The sommelier will take interested oenophiles off to one of the nearby vineyards for a tour and tastings. And dinner at Le Chantecler, the two Michelin-starred restaurant with a wine cellar containing 15,000 bottles, is a full evening’s experience. Of course, for those who come to Nice for the sea, the hotel has its own private beach.
DISCOVERING NEW WINES FOR SUMMER
When dining at Vetro Restaurant & Lounge in Howard Beach, New York, guests can enter through the front door or dock their yachts at the marina. The menu includes classic Italian food and over 400 wines. According to Vetro’s sommelier, PJ Connolly, “Summer wines should be refreshing and you need to find a crisp, clean acidity.” The 2012 DAOU Vineyards Grenache Blanc Paso Robles from California is a grenache blanc with citrus and melon aromas and bright acidity. Nice for a barbeque. The 2012 Tenuta Guado al Tasso “Scalabrone” Rosato di Bolgheri, an Italian rosé, is blended from cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah. Fresh with a crisp finish, serve with fruit and light salads. The 2010 Pago De Los Capellanes Crianza, Ribera del Duero from Spain is 100 percent tempranillo and goes well with grilled meats and salsa verde. And from France comes the 2010 Domaine Faiveley Mercurey 1er Cru “Clos Des Myglands.” This pinot noir from the Côte Chalonnaise in Burgundy is a versatile wine: excellent with game meats or cheese, or by itself on a warm sunny day.
A HORSE OF COURSE
Just 40 miles from Washington D.C. in Middleburg, Va., the Salamander Resort & Spa is set on 340 acres in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. It features luxurious suites, spa, cooking studio and wine bar, but it’s the great outdoors that beckons most visitors. In the Culinary Garden the chef teaches secrets of organic farming, and guests can pick herbs and produce for a cooking class or dine under the garden trellis. There are hiking and biking paths, tennis courts and croquet. Naturally, since the resort is surrounded by Virginia’s famed riding country, horses are a mane attraction (the resort has nine horses and two ponies, or you can bring your own). The Equestrian Program at Salamander includes a practice ring, instructional classes, and riding trails through woods and fields.
WRAPPING UP THE SEASON
Before beginning her career as a couturiere, Jackie Rogers was a model for Coco Chanel and learned much of her craft, style and technique from the legendary designer. She’s created clothes for some of the most famous women in the world, including Julianne Moore, Condaleeza Rice, Roberta Flack, Nicole Kidman, Gwyneth Paltrow, Salma Hayek and Courtney Love. For this spring and summer Rogers suggests a wrap-tie blouse, which she makes to order in 100 different colors (she particularly likes it in shocking pink). “A tie blouse can go over anything and make everything look new and fresh again,” she explains. (And think of the jewelry options!)
STRAVINSKY IN SANTA FE
Every summer The Santa Fe Opera in New Mexico presents repertory and contemporary performances on a high mesa overlooking two mountain ranges, a setting unmatched anywhere in the world. This summer, the program includes Carmen, Fidelio, the American premiere of Dr. Sun Yat-Sen, and a special salute to one of the early supporters of this unique company. In 1957 Igor Stravinsky was invited for the first season. Intrigued by the innovative organization, the celebrated composer returned several times to direct and conduct his own operas. In 2014, Santa Fe pays tribute to Stravinsky with a performance of Le Rossignol, marking the 100th anniversary of the opera’s premiere in Paris. The nightingale doesn’t only sing in Berkeley Square.
DESIGNERS We asked some of our favorite designers: what’s next on your bucket list? Listen in and get to know the artists behind your most-loved jewelry.
going to debut an exclusive limited-edition collection inspired by the horse. To me, the horse symbolizes par excellence of freedom and elegance. Actually, this is related with my second wish, to keep surprising myself and my collectors by keeping them young and glamorous.”
My next destination is Luang Prabang in Laos, one of the most mystical, magical and inspiring old villages in Asia. It will be the inspiration for my next collection.” GUY BEDARIDA OF JOHN HARDY
I have been compiling pieces of my writing, photographs and experiences for some time now. 2014 is the year it’s all going to come together inside one cover. I have a publisher so the rest is down to me. If anyone who knows me can remember anything that involves me between 1989 and 2000, please send in your stories. No junk mail or time wasters please.” STEPHEN WEBSTER
STEPHEN WEBSTER IMAGE COURTESY OF RANKIN. GUY BEDARIDA IMAGE COURTESY OF JOHN HARDY.
I love to travel, and one of my all-time favorite trips is to Chile. I’ve been several times, but next time I go I want to try glacier skiing in Portillo.”
Read Tolstoy in Russian and Proust in French. Roll around in caviar with Javier Bardem. Make my own scented candle with Cire Trudon. Walk the Great For sure on my bucket list Wall of China. Travel there is the bright future for my brand. I am a creator around the world with and a dreamer, and I wish my future grandchildren. to always keep being able to Learn to paint from foresee my clientele’s taste and mood. This year we are Eric Fischl.”
Elegance is an attitude Kate Winslet
HYDE PARK ACCENT THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS