PLUS: SPECIAL
A C C E N T/ T H E M A G A Z I N E O F L I F E ’ S C E L E B R AT I O N S SPRING/SUMMER 2014
WATCH SECTION
DESTINATION:
FASHION
SPRING 2014 TREND REPORT
CELEBRATIONS OF LOVE!
Gifts for everyone on your list
Three Exceptional Jewelers and a Collection of the World’s Best Brands, All Under One Umbrella.
The Woodlands, Texas www.donohos.com
Columbus, Ohio www.diamondcellar.com
Tulsa, Oklahoma www.brucegweber.com DIAMOND CELLAR HOLDINGS is a family of three of the finest jewelers in the United States. Each store has its own unique heritage, but together they represent almost 150 years of history in the jewelry business. We’ve built our reputation on excellent service, fine craftsmanship and unwavering integrity. That’s why the world’s top jewelry and watch brands trust us. And so can you. A. Jaffe Aaron Basha Adolpho Courrier Alex Woo Baume & Mercier Bell & Ross Breitling Carla Amorim Cartier Charles Krypell Christian Bauer Christine Cooper Hill Christopher Designs Corum
Collegiate Jewels David Yurman Denise Robergé Di Modolo Elizabeth Locke Forevermark Goldman Diana Girard Perregaux Graf von Faber-Castell Gregg Ruth Harry Kotlar Hermes Ippolita Ivanka Trump
Jaeger-LeCoultre Jay Strongwater JB Star John Hardy Kwiat Lagos Marco Bicego Memoire Michael Beaudry Michael Bondanza Michele Mikimoto Patek Philippe Penny Preville
Precision Set Raymond Weil Robert Procop Roberto Coin Roberto Coin Cento Rolex Scott Kay Sterling & Bridal Stephen Webster Soho SUWA Swiss Army TAG Heuer William Henry Studio
WELCOME! Welcome to our spring issue of Accent magazine. Hopefully by the time you’re reading this, the weather has taken a turn for the warmer! This issue features a special gift-giving section for all your spring occasions, like Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, graduations and anniversaries. Of course, we offer even more in the store, so be sure to visit us to see these fantastic gift items in person. Once again we’ve put together a fashion section showcasing some great spring and summer trends. Plus this issue features a special watch section and a feature on some of our bridal customers. I hope you’ll find plenty to enjoy. Have a wonderful spring and summer. We hope to see you soon.
SPECIAL
WATCH SECTION
Spring
FASHION PAGE 33
PAGE 45
BRUCE G. WEBER
EVENTS
PAGE 4
1
1700 UTICA SQUARE 918-749-1700 800-749-1771 BRUCEGWEBER.COM
P U B L I S H E D B Y T H E B J I FA S H I O N G R O U P PUBLISHER STU NIFOUSSI EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R
CONTENTS
HANS GSCHLIESSER MANAGING EDITOR JILLIAN LAROCHELLE PROJECT MANAGER LISA MONTEMORRA
FEATURES
DESIGNERS CYNTHIA LUCERO
1 Welcome Letter
JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI
4 Events 6 Caring for the Community
PRODUCTION MANAGER
8 David Yurman: 30 Years of Cable
WATCHES
PEG EADIE
A C C E N T M A G A Z I N E S P E C I A L S E C T I O N S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 01 4
10 New Jewelry Collections 12 Chatter: Ask the Designers 15 Spring Gifts
PRESIDENT AND CEO BRITTON JONES CHAIRMAN AND COO
22 Red Carpet
MAC BRIGHTON
24 Love Stories Prices are subject to change without notice and may vary
26 Gifts for the Bridal Party
depending on size, quality and availability. Copyright 2014.
GETTY 1 PASIEKA
28 Style: In the Mix
Accent® is published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550,
33 Spring Fashion 55 Around Town 56 Food: Brooklyn’s Fine Fare 58 Perfect Gems 60 Essay: Getting the Hint
BRIDAL SECTION 46 Watch Advisor 48 Partnerships: Time Trials 50 Wheels: Need for Speed 52 Watchmaking: Hooked on Classics 54 Spotlight: Hot Watches
Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; All Rights Reserved. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers’ claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 12, Issue 1. Accent® is a trademark of Business Journals, Inc. registered in the U.S. Patent and Trademark office. Printed In The U.S.A.
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RING BY ROBERTO COIN
30 Trends: Simply Modern
OYSTER PERPETUAL SK Y-DWELLER IN 18 KT WHITE GOLD
rolex
oyster perpetual and sky-dweller are trademarks.
bruce g. weber events
Bruce G. Weber Tennis Classic (top) In its sixth year, the Bruce G. Weber Tennis Classic again raised funds for The Children’s Hospital at Saint Francis. A kick-off party at the store featured a raffle for a diamond necklace from Roberto Coin, and tournament players once again enjoyed the splendid facility at the Michael D. Case Tennis Center at the University of Tulsa. Denise Robergé Personal Appearance (bottom) We were pleased to present jewelry designer Denise Robergé on November 20 at Cain’s 2nd Stage for an event featuring Baubles, Blue Jeans and BBQ by Oklahoma Joe’s. A favorite of our clients, Robergé introduced her newest collection featuring a gunmetal finish paired with her signature 22K gold.
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1954
60 YEARS OF CONTINUOUS INSPIRATION IN THE PURSUIT OF TECHNICAL PERFECTION
Heritage Black Bay is the direct descendant of Tudor’s technical success in Greenland on the wrists of Royal Navy sailors. 60 years later, the Black Bay is ready to stand as its own legend. TUDOR HERITAGE BLACK BAY® Self-winding mechanical movement, waterproof to 200 m, 41 mm steel case. Visit tudorwatch.com and explore more.
®
caring for the community
TRADITION
The 54th Annual Opera Ball of Tulsa. THOM GOLDEN
O
n Saturday, March 8, Tulsa’s most prominent families and civic leaders gathered in the opulent halls of the historic Mayo Hotel for a special event steeped in local tradition. Guests of the 54th Opera Ball were treated to a genteel affair, including the formal presentation of this year’s debutantes and squires, entertainment from Tulsa Opera singers, a sumptuous dinner and, of course, a classical waltz. The Opera Ball is one of Tulsa’s longest running society events and the premier “coming out” ball for the city’s elites. While it’s also a significant fundraising event benefiting Tulsa Opera, the Opera Ball is all about tradition. Debs and squires enjoy a range of special events throughout the year that are designed to create cherished
memories and mark their transition to adulthood; many of these activities have been occurring for generations. For Opera Ball debutantes, part of this tradition has always included the gift of a special piece of keepsake jewelry. For nearly half of the Opera Ball’s storied history, this gift has been a custom pearl and diamond necklace provided by Bruce G. Weber Precious Jewels. These simple, elegant necklaces are worn by debutantes on the evening of the ball; this year they were paired with gowns created for the occasion by celebrity fashion designer Carmen Marc Valvo. These lovely necklaces become a beloved piece of each young lady’s jewelry collection, something that she will wear and cherish throughout her life and perhaps pass along as a family heirloom.
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This is the box
THAT, FOR OVER FORTY YEARS,
HAS REPRESENTED THE FINEST JEWELRY AND TIMEPIECES IN THE WORLD AND THE VERY BEST VALUES AVAILABLE.
AND FOR GENERATION AFTER
GENERATION OF CUSTOMERS, IT’S STILL THE ONE
1700 Utica Square, Tulsa, Oklahoma 74114
I
918-749-1700
I
they look for.
800-749-1771
I
www.brucegweber.com
milestone
30YEARS OF CABLE
A celebration of inspiration and innovation.
C
fashion through art, it became the bracelet, the iconic David Yurman piece and one of the most famous jewelry designs in the world today, instantly recognizable and an enduring classic.
able is the unifying element of every David Yurman collection, encompassing art, inspiration, innovation and unity. David’s iconic signature is unmistakable, since this design is a variation on a theme within all his collections. This year, David Yurman celebrates a major milestone: 30 years since he introduced his signature Renaissance Cable bracelet, which revolutionized the American jewelry industry. “With the cable design, David Yurman created pieces that were immediately identifiable as part of a collection by our clients,” says Michelle Holdgrafer, store director at Bruce G. Weber Precious Jewels. “It was a foundation to build their own collection upon. It’s no wonder he was the first modern jewelry designer to become a household name.” A striking blend of ancient and modern sensibilities, the cable design conveys casual elegance and authentic glamour. Bridging fine jewelry and
“Cable is the perfect form. As an artist, it offers me infinite possibilities.” DAVID YURMAN
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DIAMOND STUD EARRINGS FROM BRUCE G. WEBER PRECIOUS JEWELS.
Brilliant from any distance.
QUALITY FOR QUALITY, THE
BEST PRICE ANYWHERE. GUARANTEED.
what’s new
ALEX WOO Alex Woo delicately balances the trendy must-have and the classic into sleek and stylish designs that evoke the bold strength of today’s woman, while keeping intact her natural femininity. As a direct result of always challenging herself to find unique and intriguing ways to accessorize, Alex Woo has attracted an established client list of fashion editors, stylists, trendsetters and celebrities. Each piece is handcrafted and often signed by the designer, ensuring that the quality is unsurpassed.
RAHAMINOV For over 70 years, Rahaminov Diamonds has been a trusted purveyor of diamonds to the trade and providers of top-quality, beautifully cut large and rare diamonds to fine jewelry retailers worldwide. To the public, the company has been a well-kept secret, until recently. It has evolved from a purveyor of loose diamonds to a jewelry design house. Bruce G. Weber Precious Jewels is proud to introduce Rahaminov’s exceptionally crafted designs in platinum and 18-karat gold incorporating not only classic white and fancy colored diamonds, but also polished natural color rough diamonds in hues ranging from translucent to opaque.
Rustic Cuff was created in Tulsa in 2011 by Jill Donovan, whose lifelong obsession with cuffs and a need for a creative outlet turned into so much more. Jill’s passion for quality and unique design helped Rustic Cuff to expand from a basic leather cuff line into an entire collection including exotic skins, original designs, and varying types of metals. Rustic Cuff has been featured on Good Morning America, ABC’s The View, The Wendy Williams Show, and E!News. Jill’s designs have also gained favor with celebrities including Giuliana Rancic, Miranda Lambert, Sheryl Crow, Kathy Lee Gifford, Elisabeth Hasselbeck, and GMA’s Lara Spencer, to name a few.
RITANI Ritani is a high-end jewelry brand modernizing the way people purchase diamond engagement rings and jewelry. Founded in 1999, Ritani marries the online shopping experience with a network of trusted local jewelers in one seamless transaction. Visit Ritani’s website to choose your certified diamond and select your setting in your preferred metal and her size. Ritani artisans craft your ring in New York—your diamond, your setting, your specifications. You then visit Bruce G. Weber to review your ring in person. If you love it, take it home that day. If not, simply walk away. Or start in our store and see a selection of settings before you decide.
TUDOR Originally conceived by Rolex as a value-priced alternative, watch brand Tudor hit U.S. shores in 2013 and retains its value position, while giving watch enthusiasts a new collection to swoon over. Prices range from about $2,000 to $5,000. We’re proud to be one of the relatively few stores in the country to represent this exciting brand. See them at Bruce G. Weber Precious Jewels.
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chatter
Ask the
DESIGNERS We asked some of our favorite designers: what’s next on your bucket list? Listen in and get to know the artists behind your most-loved jewelry.
IVANKA TRUMP
going to debut an exclusive limited-edition collection inspired by the horse. To me, the horse symbolizes par excellence of freedom and elegance. Actually, this is related with my second wish, to keep surprising myself and my collectors by keeping them young and glamorous.”
IPPOLITA
My next destination is Luang Prabang in Laos, one of the most mystical, magical and inspiring old villages in Asia. It will be the inspiration for my next collection.” GUY BEDARIDA OF JOHN HARDY
ROBERTO COIN
I have been compiling pieces of my writing, photographs and experiences for some time now. 2014 is the year it’s all going to come together inside one cover. I have a publisher so the rest is down to me. If anyone who knows me can remember anything that involves me between 1989 and 2000, please send in your stories. No junk mail or time wasters please.” STEPHEN WEBSTER
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STEPHEN WEBSTER IMAGE COURTESY OF RANKIN. GUY BEDARIDA IMAGE COURTESY OF JOHN HARDY.
I love to travel, and one of my all-time favorite trips is to Chile. I’ve been several times, but next time I go I want to try glacier skiing in Portillo.”
Read Tolstoy in Russian and Proust in French. Roll around in caviar with Javier Bardem. Make my own scented candle with Cire Trudon. Walk the Great For sure on my bucket list Wall of China. Travel there is the bright future for my brand. I am a creator around the world with and a dreamer, and I wish my future grandchildren. to always keep being able to Learn to paint from foresee my clientele’s taste and mood. This year we are Eric Fischl.”
I S
M Y
E V E RY T H I N G
THE CENTER OF MY UNIVERSE™ FROM FOREVERMARK
© 2 0 1 3 FO R E V E R M A R K . FO R E V E R M A R K ®,
Less than one percent of the world ’s diamonds c an c arr y the Forevermark inscription — a promise that each is beautif ul, rare and responsibly sourced .
® , C E N T E R O F M Y U N I V E R S E ™ A N D S H E I S M Y E V E R Y T H I N G ™ A R E T R A D E M A R K S O F T H E D E B E E R S G R O U P O F C O M PA N I E S .
S H E
Forevermark is part of the De Beers group of companies.
Mother’s jewelry that’s as unique as her love for her children.
1700 Utica Square, Tulsa, Oklahoma 74114
(918) 749-1700
www.brucegweber.com
Spring GIFTS
Everyone wants that perfect gift-giving moment.
mother’s day
Kwiat engravable diamond tag necklace in 18K gold starting at $750
Diamond stud earrings in 14K gold starting at $325
Baume & Mercier Clifton automatic in stainless steel and 18K rose gold $4,450
Encore jewelry featuring birthstones and diamonds in 14K gold starting at $395
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Roberto Coin Tiny Treasures diamond collection in 18K gold starting at $300
Birthstones: JANUARY Garnet
FEBRUARY
Amethyst
We had our first child, Matthew, six months ago. What do I give someone who’s given me the best gift ever?”
MARCH
Aquamarine
APRIL
Diamond
MAY
Emerald
JUNE
Pearl/Alexandrite
JULY Ruby
AUGUST
Peridot
SEPTEMBER
Sapphire
OCTOBER
Tourmaline/Opal
NOVEMBER
Topaz/Citrine
DECEMBER
Tanzanite/Zircon /Turquoise Bruce G. Weber Dolce collection featuring birthstone jewelry in 14K gold starting at $500
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father’s day
David Yurman Meteorite bracelet in sterling silver with faceted meteorite $2,800
Baume & Mercier Clifton in stainless steel $3,800 Orbita Sparta Deluxe watch winder in burl wood $495
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David Yurman Classic World Time GMT in stainless steel on a leather strap $4,200
Some superheroes don’t come with capes–they are called fathers.”
David Yurman Meteorite cufflinks in sterling silver $1,200
John Hardy Naga Dragon tie clip in sterling sliver $395 David Yurman tie bar in sterling silver with blue lapis $375
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graduation
Alex Woo Little Numbers pendants, sterling silver starting at $168
Collegiate Jewel officially licensed jewelry starting at $129
I want him to be reminded daily that I always have, and always will, support him. He makes me so proud!�
Ippolita spring 2014 collection
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Tudor Black Bay automatic in stainless steel $3,425
anniversary
Diamond eternity bands, available in multiple sizes and shapes starting at $2,500
Anniverary Gifts: 1ST
Clock
5TH
Wood/Silverware
10TH
Diamond
15TH
Watch
20TH
Platinum
25TH
Together, we raised three beautiful kids. It’s been quite a ride. I want to tell her I always want her by my side.�
Silver
30TH
Pearl/Diamond
40TH Ruby
45TH
Sapphire
50TH Gold
60TH
Diamond
David Yurman ladies Classic timepiece in stainless steel and white ceramic with diamonds $6,600
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Mikimoto 9x7 mm cultured Akoya pearl strand with 18K gold clasp $3,500
SAMIRA WILEY at Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week
MIKE COPOLA/GETTY IMAGES FOR MERCEDES-BENZ
CARLA GUGINO at the 65th Annual Primetime Emmy Awards
COURTESY OF NORMAN SILVERMAN
red carpet
REGINA HALL at the Hollywood premiere of The Best Man Holiday 22
COURTESY OF SAZINGG AND KUUMBA
JULIETTE BINOCHE at the Cartier: Le Style et l’Histoire exhibition in Paris
RINDOFF PETROFF-CASTEL
RED HOT!
BEN PRUCHNIE FOR PARAMOUNT PICTURES INTL
KATE WINSLET at the BFI London Film Festival Labor Day screening
COURTESY OF CHIMENTO
EMMA ROBERTS at the 2014 Vanity Fair Oscar Party
In this bold hue, there’s no chance of blending in.
EMMY ROSSUM at the BTJA 3rd Annual Critics’ Choice Awards 23
COURTESY OF NORMAN SILVERMAN
KELLY OSBOURNE at the 65th Annual Primetime Emmy Awards
COURTESY OF AMRAPALI
JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
bruce g. weber bridal
COREY JONES & LYDIA BALL On the night Corey proposed, Oklahoma's weather decided to turn to freezing rain and high winds, but Corey was determined. Somehow, Corey coaxed Lydia to get out of his warm truck and trek towards a gazebo, where he asked her to be his wife. She said yes, and despite the freezing weather, left her gloves off to sport her new diamond ring.
Love STORIES Every Bruce G. Weber bridal story is beautiful and unique. Here are a just few of our favorites from recent engagements and weddings. MATTHEW & KELSEY GRANT After dinner at Trula’s restaurant, Kelsey and Matthew were asked to take a private tour of the Mayo ballrooms and penthouse. Once on the roof, overlooking the gorgeous skyline, Matthew got down on one knee and proposed. It was too dark for Kelsey to see the beautiful ring, but nevertheless, it took her breath away! For their fifth anniversary this year, Kelsey hopes for a matching band to add to her wedding set.
Photography by Destiny Burk of Destiny Photography
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Photography by Ely Fair Photography, LLC
RYAN WOODARD & HAILEY HINCH
BRAD SEVERSON & KATHERINE CARTER
Ryan convinced Hailey to pick up fair tickets from his parents’ house. As they were walking inside, Ryan got down on one knee while their familes watched from inside. As an added surprise, Ryan invited Hailey’s two best friends, who flew in from out of town for the surprise!
Brad proposed to Katherine last year with a beautiful cushion-cut diamond ring. Although we do not know the details of their engagement, we do know that they are a lovely couple, and wish them the very best!
ANDREW FIELD & KARA OSGOOD
STUART & CALLIE RANDALL
Andrew knew how important it was for Kara to have her whole family together to celebrate their engagement, so Andrew decided to pop the question the night before Kara’s graduation from OSU. Both families gathered for dinner at The Summit Club where Andrew surprised Kara with a proposal!
After a lovely dinner, Stuart asked Callie to take a walk through a rose garden that was just up the street. When the couple arrived in front of the Tulsa Historical Society, Stuart got down on one knee and asked Callie to marry him. Afterwards, they toasted with the Champagne Stuart was hiding in his car!
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gifts for the bridal party John Hardy Naga Borneo Beads cufflinks in sterling silver $295 John Hardy Batu Classic Chain Meteorite cufflinks in sterling silver $495
Once in a while, right in the middle of an ordinary life, love gives us a fairy tale.�
Baume & Mercier Clifton ladies in stainless steel and 18K rose gold $2,800 Baume & Mercier Clifton RetrogradeDate automatic in stainless steel $5,750
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Freshwater cultured pearl strand and stud earrings set $100
Forevermark Center of My Universe diamond pendant, available in multiple sizes starting at $1,090. Forevermark Center of My Universe diamond earrings, available in multiple sizes starting at $2,720
Roberto Coin Tiny Treasures Love Letter necklace in 18K white gold with diamonds $580 each
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style
MIX In THE Freshen up your jewelry favorites.
BETH BERNSTEIN
Have a tennis bracelet that’s been sitting in the recesses of your jewelry box? Think your round, brilliant-cut, prong-set stud earrings look too traditional? Love your grandmother’s 1920s Art Deco diamond and platinum brooch but don’t know how to wear it alongside your contemporary jewelry? Spring 2014 is all about the art of the mix. There is a trend towards updating classics you already own (or want to own) by combining them with more fashionable styles, or adding a contemporary element to those pieces in your jewelry box that you thought were outdated. It’s all about personalizing your jewelry look, which means mixing old with new, antique heirloom with modern, and even throwing in some edgy pieces.
Here are three tips to help you get the most mileage— and style—from your jewelry box:
Inherit This Style
If you’re one of those lucky women who have inherited an elegant Art Deco brooch but can’t figure out how to incorporate it into your everyday jewelry wardrobe, here are a few intriguing ideas. You can fasten it onto an elongated diamond station necklace, or
Diamonds Will Always Be a Girl’s Best Friend
wear the brooch as a pendant on a satin cord (layered with a station necklace if you wish). Or pin the brooch to the side
If you own a (flexible diamond line-style) tennis bracelet from the late-’80s or early-’90s
of a dress, and complete the look with
that was once chic (worn with Armani pantsuits to power lunches or out to coffee with the
linear earrings that also recall an Art
other moms), it’s time to try mixing it up. Add status pieces like large links or thin cuffs
Deco influence—a pair with swing and
and bangles. These diamond line bracelets are injected with new life when worn with
movement. But don’t stop there: get
another classic, like the Cartier Love bracelet, on one side, and a thin bangle with a
creative with a double-finger ring or one
gemstone and diamond pavé surround on the other. For an edgier look, add a snake cuff
of those fashionable bracelet/ring
that slithers around your wrist. For the more sentimental, layer with a charm bracelet; if
creations that extends from your finger
you haven’t been filling one up for years, it’s never too late to start. Your wrist is the
to your wrist.
Past Present
Love the sentimental designs of Victorian-era rings, but think you need to save them for a special occasion? Not so. Try stacking a Victorian cluster ring with mine-cut diamonds, or a new polished, rough-cut gray diamond ring from Todd Reed, and the look becomes current and playful. Or go for a garden theme, with a bold piece like Stephen Webster’s pavé diamond butterfly ring, worn with an antique snake ring on the same hand. Luckily, you have 10 fingers and limitless possibilities.
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FROM TOP: IMAGES COURTESY OF PENNY PREVILLE, IVANKA TRUMP, STEPHEN WEBSTER
perfect place to mix metals—white, pink and yellow gold—and gemstones with diamonds.
P OIS MOI COLLECTION
trends
A
s the warm-weather seasons begin, jewelry and fashion have both entered into a nouveau modern era. In two words: sleek and uncomplicated. Still glamorous? Definitely—but more panache with purity, if you will. When models strutted down the spring/summer runways wearing peek-a-boo sheers and cut-out mesh (and even see-through skirts) they looked sensual, but seldom overly sexy. “In fashion, there’s a distinct modernization going on, as designers are beginning to rethink luxury,” explains David Wolfe, creative director of international fabric, color and style forecasting agency The Doneger Group in New York City. “It’s super-simplicity—kind of no-fashion fashion. Yet there’s a lot of cutting-edge creativity. For example, clean-cut sharp angles—what I’m calling geometrickery!” What does this mean in terms of jewelry accessorizing? “It’s the minimalist ’90s back in fashion. But not the stark minimal ’90s, when everything was spare—as in no accessories and no jewelry,” explains Vicente Agor, president of the Contemporary Jewelry Design Group. “This time around, sleek apparel is the backdrop for jewelry. That’s key to what makes it now—completely 2014,” he says. “The clean lines of the clothes actually let the jewelry stand out. If you wear something exactly as it was styled in its original decade, then it’s a costume! So it’s very important to pair the new austere-shaded, streamlined clothes with jewelry. Otherwise, you’ll look out-of-date—very yesterday.”
“and jewelry looks very fresh when it’s large in scale.” Nonetheless, says Wolfe, “Because there are many important silhouettes going on simultaneously this season, sometimes dramatic designs are needed while, at other times, what you wear may call for smaller, slimmer items of jewelry worn together for an overall uber effect.”
FASHION’S METALLICS, JEWELRY’S METALS Still, whether the jewels you wear this spring and summer are singularly super-sized or merely appear large when layered, the precious metal itself is a key consideration. To some degree, all the high-gloss futuristic fabrics are a factor. “We’re currently experiencing a fascination with unnatural-looking textiles. Metallic is being worn year-round, not just during the holiday period,” Wolfe says. “All shades of metallic—blue, pink, green—a rich rainbow. But my favorites are the darker muted gold metallics; I call them golden glamour. They’re very complementary to the new jewelry we’re seeing in yellow, rose and darkened rhodium-plated gold, and these mix fabulously with white gold and sterling silver that’s oxidized to look gray or black.”
SIMPLY MODERN
COLORS . . . AND NON-COLORS
Speaking of black, like last year, it’s the non-color that’s still going strong. LIVING LARGE “Lots of sparkling white, too,” The first thing to remember when Wolfe reminds us. “Remember, wearing the season’s refined, white is now worn year-round. I unfussy clothes is to think big: especially like all the black-andLORRAINE DEPASQUE jewelry with impact is a megawhite clothes because it’s a color trend. And you can do that either combo that gives you a lot of by wearing large statement freedom with jewelry and other pieces or by layering several for a accessories. Beyond black and strong jewelry look. With luxury brands, top-trending categories include white, color runs the gamut, from bold and bright to darks to mellow yellow, knuckle rings and cocktail rings, power pendants and lengthy necklaces, neutral, and nude. And I love that very sophisticated combination of navy long dangle earrings—especially triple-stone drops—and slim bracelets and black, which many major fashion houses have given us. Although this worn in multiples—three minimum, but mostly five—stacked up the arm. Ivanka Trump Metropolis collection layering necklace in 18K yellow gold with diamonds “Geometric and sculptural pieces are very important now,” notes Agor,
Jewelry’s new sophisticated simplicity.
30
year, you’ll see all shades of blue—light, medium, and dark navy—straight into fall and through the winter. And more monochromatic schemes of mid-tone blues, too.”
F
ine jewelry has, in fact, led the way when it comes to blues, says lapidary artist and veteran gem dealer Bill Gangi, who sells high-quality colored stones to many leading names in luxury artisanal jewelry. “It’s the number-one gem color every year,” he says. But in the 2014 Spectrum Awards (the annual premier competition for colored gemstone jewelry design sponsored by the American Gem Trade Association), there were notably more indigo, azure and cobalt-colored jewelry entries than in the 2013 contest. Tanzanite, blue sapphire, lapis-lazuli and aquamarine were hard-to-miss standouts—way more popular than in the previous year. You definitely want your jeweler to show you some new designs that highlight any (or all!) of those blue beauties. Other in-vogue blues are iolite, black opal, blue moonstone, labradorite, turquoise, blue chalcedony, blue topaz and blue zircon. “A great color combination is blue with purple,” Wolfe recommends. “In fashion, purple’s been hot for the past four seasons.” Given that the Pantone Color Institute named Radiant Orchid as its 2014 Color of the Year, you can bet that purple passion will continue to heat up throughout the year. “It’s a modern and surprisingly versatile shade,” says Pantone’s executive DAVID WOLFE director, Leatrice Eiseman. (Take note: There’s that word THE DONEGER GROUP modern again!) Eiseman adds that Radiant Orchid is “a captivating, magical, enigmatic purple, inspiring confidence and emanating great joy, love and health. And it encourages expanded creativity and originality.” Looking at the breadth of imaginative new collections from goldsmiths inspired by a spectrum of violet, lavender and eggplant shaded stones—amethyst, alexandrite, sugilite, purple sapphire, kunzite, tourmaline, agate, quartz and lavender spinel—we can’t help but agree! On a final note, it’s hardly coincidental that the Pantone Color of the Year is named after a beautiful, delicate flower. Remember, we’re enjoying an uncluttered, easy-to understand style era right now, one that’s often characterized by natural influences as well as geometrics. Think about it: Both nature and geometry are minimalist at their core. Going forward, well beyond 2014, forecasters are predicting that organic-themed collections will continue to grow, as women (like us!) are captivated by the perfection of the imperfection of asymmetric gemstones. Raw diamonds, baroque pearls, sliced precious and semiprecious color. . . each gem is one-of-a-kind from nature—and completely sophisticated in its simplicity!
This year, you’ll see all shades of blue—light, medium and dark navy—straight into fall and through the winter.’’
From top: Penny Preville earrings in 18K yellow gold with moonstone cabochons and large organic aquamarine bottom drops Ivanka Trump Patras collection blue sapphire ring in 18K white gold with white diamond surround Stephen Webster hoop earrings in 18K rose gold and white diamonds Roberto Coin Haute Couture collection cluster ring in 18K white gold with iolite, blue sapphire and white diamonds Roberto Coin trio of single-row bracelets from the Poi Moi collection, in highpolished 18K rose, white and yellow gold
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Spring 2014 brings an unexpected juxtapostion of pastels, vibrant colors, embellished details and modern silhouettes. Travel through this season’s top trends and discover a wide-open terrain of work, play and leisure. You will feel nothing short of satisfied when you reach your final destination. Clothing by Rowe Boutique
BEHIND THE SCENES The making of the fashion section for our magazine starts months in advance and involves a team of dedicated people both inside and outside our organization. The process starts with careful planning and scheduling. The shoot is scheduled as close as possible to the publication deadline to allow for the very freshest fashions. Many times, the fashions are arriving a day or two before the shoot, and looks are often substituted at the last minute. Jewelry is carefully chosen for each look, but is always subject to change once we’re on set. It takes a full day to capture all eight looks, and the ďŹ nal images are chosen from thousands of shots. Once chosen, each shot must be carefully examined and retouched as needed. The layout and additional jewelry closeups are done in-house at Diamond Cellar Holdings, and everything is reviewed and revised many times. Special thanks to: Maren Roth and her team at Rowe Boutique, Kyle Widder, KDW Photography, Nurtur the Salon, and our model.
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Stephen Webster 18K white gold Crystal Haze Crab bracelet $27,000 • 18K white gold sugarloaf diamond ring $26,400 • Stephen Webster Superstud drop earrings in sterling silver and 14K yellow gold with diamonds $725 • Stephen Webster Le Dents De La Mer tassel necklace $595 • David Yurman Classic timepiece in black ceramic and stainless steel with diamond accents $6,600 • Additional items on model, Roberto Coin “Y” necklace in 18K white gold with diamonds $7,900
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Rolex Pink Wave Datejust in stainless steel and 18K white gold $9,900, David Yurman sterling silver and black ceramic link bracelet $775, 14K yellow gold and black diamond bangle $2,717 • Roberto Coin Afrikan earrings in black jade and diamonds $6,900, David Yurman Starburst necklace in sterling silver and diamonds $4,950, Roberto Coin Afrikan necklace with black jade and diamonds $14,000 • Black and white diamond ring set in sterling silver and 18K yellow gold $2,090 • Additional items on model, Scott Kay sterling silver and black spinel pavé bracelet $2,775, 18K white gold and yellow diamond ring $44,800
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David Yurman black rhodium and 18K yellow gold chain necklace $3,400, David Yurman black rhodium and 18K yellow gold chain necklace $3,200 • Stephen Webster black rhodium knuckle ring $394, Stephen Webster Forget Me Knot ring in sterling silver $350 • David Yurman Classic timepiece in 18K yellow gold and stainless steel with diamonds $8,000, David Yurman Renaissance cable bracelet with turquoise and carnelian $1,750, David Yurman Midnight Melange bangle bracelet with black diamonds $1,450 • Additional items on model, John Hardy Lava hoop earrings $495
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David Yurman Cable Link bracelet in sterling silver $950, Baume & Mercier Hampton ladies stainless steel timepiece with a double-wrap calfskin strap $2,100 • David Yurman Starlight cuff $6,900 • Ippolita 3-pendant Wonderland necklace in sterling silver $1,195 • Roberto Coin Fantasia diamond earrings $1,600
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Roberto Coin Fantasia ring in black sapphire and diamond $3,440, 18K white gold diamond cuff $30,800, David Yurman Starlight bracelet in sterling silver with diamonds $3,900 • Baume & Mercier Linea ladies rose gold and stainless steel timepiece $5,800 • David Yurman Labyrinth earrings in sterling silver with prasiolite $1,350, David Yurman Cable Wrap ring in sterling silver with prasiolite $1,600 • Sterling silver blackened 28” circle chain $550, Sterling silver blackened white topaz slice pendant $2,090, David Yurman freshwater pearl and sterling silver cable necklace $1,950, David Yurman Willow chain in sterling silver $1,350
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Ivanka Trump 18K yellow gold and diamond earrings $2,400, Ippolita Gelato necklace in 18K yellow gold $10,000, Ippolita Gelato necklace in 18K yellow gold $3,495 • Ippolita Stella ring in 18K yellow gold $2,915 • Rolex Oyster Perpetual in 18K and stainless steel $8,050, Ivanka Trump Metropolis cuff in 18K yellow gold with diamonds $7,200 • Additional items on model, Ivanka Trump Metropolis cuff in 18K yellow gold with diamonds $12,500, Ivanka Trump Metropolis cuff in 18K yellow gold with diamonds $7,200, Cushion-cut diamond ring in platinum $55,000
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Baume & Mercier Linea ladies timepiece in stainless steel with interchangeable strap and bracelet $2,400, Roberto Coin 18K yellow gold and diamond bangle $3,300, Roberto Coin 18K rose gold bangle $3,300, David Yurman black and 18K yellow gold chain $1,950 • Blackened sterling silver and 18K yellow gold vintage pendant with white topaz and diamond $3,520, Blackened sterling silver wheat chain $354 • Blackened sterling silver slice earrings with white topaz and diamond $1,485 • Stephen Webster Le Dents De La Mer shark jaw cuff $1,795 • Additional items on model, 18K rose gold ring with white, black, and brown diamonds $2,145, 18K white gold pear-shaped diamond ring $41,998
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Stephen Webster Superstone necklace $2,695 • Roberto Coin oval diamond bangle in 18K white gold $3,300, Roberto Coin oval diamond bangle in 18K yellow gold $3,300, Michael Bondanza black jade bangle $3,300 • Rolex Datejust with floral-motif dial in 18K white gold and stainless steel $10,700, Ivanka Trump 18K white gold and diamond cuff $12,000 • Additional items on model, 18K white gold necklace with yellow, black, brown and white diamonds $22,635, Kwiat Deco diamond ring in 18K white gold $6,300, Kwiat 18K platinum diamond band $4,350
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THE BRUCE G. WEBER CREDIT CARD
Flexible Financing Options When it comes to important purchases, we know savvy shoppers appreciate financing options. We are pleased to provide the Bruce G. Weber Credit Card, one more way we can help make your dreams come true.
CREDIT CARD BENEFITS INCLUDE: • No annual fee • Special event offers • Instant credit available • Exclusive cardholder promotions
Call today and find out how Bruce G. Weber can provide you with enhanced purchasing power and flexible financing options. A card dedicated exclusively to your fine watch and jewelry purchases – all with the integrity and value that have been the cornerstone of Bruce G. Weber for over 50 years. • See store for details
WATCHES GETTY 1 PASIEKA
A C C E NT M A G A Z I N E S P E C I A L S E C T I O N S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 014
WATCH ADVISOR CAN ANY WATCH BE REPAIRED BY ANY TECHNICIAN, OR ARE WATCH MOVEMENTS UNIQUE TO EACH BRAND? It depends very much on the watch. Many watches use movements (the mechanism inside that actually keeps time) made in the tens or hundreds of thousands by major industry suppliers, but some luxury watches use their own in-house movements and materials that few watchmakers are trained to service, or can't obtain the parts to service properly. Especially for luxury mechanical watches, we always suggest using a brandauthorized service center like the one in our store. Mistakes are very easy to make, and extremely expensive to fix.
How many parts are used to make a timepiece, and how many hours go into constructing it?
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ven a simple mechanical watch that tells only the date and time can have over a hundred parts, including the case, dial and hands. Very complicated watches that include functions like a chronograph (stopwatch), a perpetual calendar (one that always shows the right date, no matter if the current month has 30 or 31 days, or even if it's February 29th in a leap year), or a repeater (which chimes the time on tiny gongs inside the watch) may have many, many more. Watches that combine these complications, often called “grand complication” watches, may have close to a thousand parts, all of which have to be tested and re-tested. They can take nearly a year to assemble. Most other watches take much less time to build. Exactly how much depends on the level of care that goes into finishing the movement parts, how complex the case construction is, whether or not any special techniques must be used to make the dial (for example, enamel and engraved dials both take considerable time and skill to make), and how carefully the watch is adjusted—that is, fine-tuned to keep time accurately. Mechanical timepieces can be almost entirely machine fabricated and assembled, or they can be almost entirely made by hand, virtually from scratch. It all depends on the specific model. A mass-produced mechanical watch is a marvel of industrial technology that makes it possible, for a reasonable price, to enjoy all the pleasures of mechanical watchmaking. A hand-assembled, hand-finished watch with a hand-finished movement, individually adjusted by an expert watchmaker, takes many dozens of hours of skilled work, which can only be done by highly trained experts with years of experience.
What is the difference between quartz and mechanical watches? Is one better than the other? A mechanical watch is powered by a coiled spring—just like a child's wind-up toy—and it uses a mechanical, rather than electronic, oscillator to mark time. (Think of the principle of a pendulum clock, where the pendulum always swings, say, once per second. Of course, a pendulum wouldn't work in a portable timepiece; it uses something called a balance and
balance spring that perform the same function.) Mechanical watches are preferred by most serious watch lovers, and their history goes back much further— all the way back to the late Renaissance if you include pocket watches. Quartz watches are generally more accurate and almost always less expensive. However, a wellmaintained mechanical watch can
keep time to within a few seconds a day, or even a week—more than good enough for most purposes. Mechanical watches also offer a history and heritage far older than quartz watches. Though they're technical marvels, the massproduced, basically disposable nature of many quartz watches makes mechanical watchmaking something that continues to be held in high regard. BY JACK FORSTER
A quartz watch is powered by a battery, and keeps time by passing a tiny current through a very small quartz crystal. This causes the crystal to vibrate, like a tuning fork, and a tiny integrated circuit counts the vibrations per second to mark time. The hands are moved by miniature electric motors. They are a fairly recent development; the first were sold to the public in 1969.
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PARTNERSHIPS by Laurie Kahle
TIME TRIALS
When watch brands partner with world-class sporting events, every microsecond counts.
Omega Sochi Petrograd
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rom race tracks to track and field, the tiniest fraction of a second separates winners from losers in the sporting world. Through partnerships with premier events, top watch brands apply generations of expertise to develop cutting-edge timing technologies that heighten accuracy both in the arena and on your wrist. At the 1932 Games in Los Angeles, when Omega began its longstanding partnership with the Olympics as official timekeeper, 30 chronograph stopwatches were necessary in order to accurately time each event. “Back then it was the same technology you could buy in the store,” explains Stephen Urquhart, the company’s president. Its latest timing advancement is the Quantum Timer, which, remarkably, can measure one microsecond (one millionth of a second). To commemorate this year’s Sochi Games, the brand released limited editions of its Planet Ocean model and a retro Sochi Petrograd dress watch. When Oracle Team USA won last year’s America’s Cup, its crew wore TAG Heuer’s Aquaracer 72, an unprecedented digital chronograph that provided real-time data through wireless integration with the boat’s onboard computers. Each piece was programmed for each sailor’s specific role, to
TAG Heuer Aquaracer 72
provide information on boat speed, true wind speed, direction and angle, and much more. Yachting is one of many sports partnerships at Rolex, but the brand is most famously aligned with motorsports, an affiliation that dates back to the 1930s, when Sir Malcolm Campbell set a world land-speed record while wearing a Rolex Oyster. In 1959, Rolex partnered with Daytona International Speedway, a relationship that spurred the development of its famous Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona. The model’s 50th anniversary last year was marked with a limited edition in platinum. Rolex’s other motorsport sponsorships include 24 Hours of Le Mans, Goodwood Revival (UK) and, most recently, Formula 1. The original kind of horsepower is still celebrated by Longines, which traces its synergy with equestrian sports to 1878, when it produced a chronograph engraved with a jockey and his mount. The timepiece, which tracked seconds, quickly became popular among equestrians and was even used by event judges. This year, Longines continues that tradition as First Official Timekeeper and Watch of the Triple Crown, playing an active role timing the Kentucky Derby, Preakness Stakes and Belmont Stakes.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona
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PEACE OF MIND STARTS WITH PROOF OF QUALITY. Weight Carat 1.53
ColorE Grade Grade Clarity VS1
Grade CutExcellent
Laser Inscription Registry Number GIA 16354621 Natural Diamond Not Synthetic
For over 80 years, GIA has brought clarity and global standards to gem evaluation. A GIA report means expert, independent verification from the creator of the 4Cs and the world’s most widely recognized gem authority.
Look for GIA-graded diamonds and jewelers who offer them.
CARLSBAD ANTWERP BANGKOK DUBAI GABORONE HONG KONG JOHANNESBURG LONDON MOSCOW MUMBAI NEW YORK OSAKA RAMAT GAN SEOUL TAIPEI TOKYO
WHEELS by David A. Rose
Taking a cue from its parent company, Tudor enters the world of motor sports sponsorship.
NEED FOR SPEED
Tudor Grantour Chrono Fly-Back
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RACING IMAGE BY STEPHAN COOPER
A
nyone who knows anything about motor sports will know and Grand-Am Rolex Sports Car Series and the American Le Mans Series. The appreciate the contribution Rolex has made over the years. Rolex is two had been competing for fans, sponsors, teams and drivers since 1999, but the official timepiece at the Sebring International Raceway and the as a single series they have now created one of the most exciting sports car Mobil 1 Twelve Hours of Sebring, official timepiece at The 24 Hours of Le races in the world. Mans, and title sponsor of the annual Rolex 24 at Daytona. And in 2013, the “For years Tudor has been inspired by motor sports,” says brand brand made history when it became the global partner and official timepiece manager Russell Kelly. “This new partnership allows us to elevate our of Formula 1, the pinnacle of motor sports. commitment to sports car racing. This is the perfect alignment between Rolex also made headlines last year for another reason: the partners dedicated to performance and precision.” announcement that it would re-launch its storied Tudor brand in the U.S., International sports car racing brings together some of the most and promote it as the title partner for the new Tudor United SportsCar sophisticated machinery in existence with the best drivers in the world. Championship. Hans Wilsdorf, Rolex’s founder, Unlike other motor sports races, which run for a registered the name “The Tudor” in 1926 to honor specific number of miles or laps, sports car series are 2014 TUDOR the Tudor period in England. He established run for three, six, 12 and 24 hours. Each car must UNITED SPORTSCAR Montres Tudor SA in 1946 with the idea of offering utilize a minimum of two drivers for the shorter CHAMPIONSHIP the quality of Rolex timepieces at a lower price. races, and can use up to five drivers per car for 24UPCOMING RACE SCHEDULE Today, though Tudor is part of the Rolex Group, it is hour events. They race in all weather conditions and May 4 Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca operated separately and continues to uphold its the pace remains intense throughout the entire May 31 Detroit Belle Isle philosophy of affordable luxury. To celebrate its event. With the merger of the two series for 2014, June 7 Kansas Speedway colorful history, Tudor has introduced the Heritage there is no doubt that the Tudor United SportsCar June 29 Watkins Glen International Collection, featuring updated versions of iconic Championship will present race fans in North July 13 Canadian Tire Motorsports Park pieces like the Tudor Heritage Chrono and the Tudor America with the most exciting racing they’ve ever July 25 Indianapolis Motor Speedway Heritage Advisor. seen, while allowing watch lovers to become August 10 Road America The Tudor United SportsCar Championship was reacquainted with the luxury, quality and August 24 Virginia International Raceway formed by the merging of two rival U.S. events: the sophistication of the Tudor brand.
Christopher Designs
PHOTOGRAPHY: BARTOSZ POTOCKI
Crisscut
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Crisscut ® Round 109 Facet
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Crisscut ® Emerald 77 Facet
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Crisscut ® Cushion 77 Facet
For an Authorized Jeweler in Your Area Call: 1.800.955.0970 www.christopherdesigns.com The original Crisscut ® is a trademark used under license from Christopher Designs. Use of the Crisscut ® trademark is only allowed by authorized retailers.
WATCHMAKING by Jack Forster
HOOKED ON CLASSICS
Heritage-themed watchmaking in the 21st century.
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n 1969, the first quartz watch (the Seiko Astron, which cost as much as a car at the time) was introduced, and by the mid-1970s mechanical watches seemed to be on their way out. But today they’re back in a big way, and some of the most popular styles recall the most classic designs from the past. Watchmaking has been around for nearly 500 years, and for the last century, wristwatches have dominated personal timekeeping. But they didn’t really take off until after the first World War, when their widespread use by officers as a more practical alternative to the pocket watch made them respectable for men to wear. (Before then, they were called “wristlet” watches and were worn almost exclusively by women.) A fine mechanical wristwatch—a tiny, high-precision machine—was considered a masterpiece of miniaturization, and as the wristwatch evolved
technically, especially during the 1950s and ’60s, certain classic forms evolved too. One of the most important was the extra-thin dress watch. Extra-thin watches couldn’t be made by just anybody; they required high precision and care to assemble thanks to the unforgiving tolerances, so a thin, gold dress watch was considered a de rigeur accessory. The development of better waterproofing techniques led to the evolution of sports watches that could be worn by divers, and specialist watches (particularly chronographs), which combined the functions of a watch and stopwatch, began to be made for pilots, motorsports enthusiasts, and were even worn into space by both American and Soviet astronauts. Extra-thin watches seemed a dying breed, even during the renaissance of mechanical watchmaking. As recently as 10 years ago, men’s taste ran strongly
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IMAGE COURTESY OF JAEGER-LECOULTRE
Jaeger-LeCoultre master engraver Dominique Vuez
WATCHMAKING in favor of large, aggressively styled watches, but in the last five years watch lovers have rediscovered the pleasures of the classic dress watch. The evolution of thin watches goes back a long way, to the 18th century, when some of the first thin pocket watches were made by Pierre de Beaumarchais (who also wrote the Figaro plays, one of which was turned into the opera The Barber of Seville, by Rossini). Making a true extra-thin watch that still keeps time well is a huge challenge. Everything from the mainspring to the case itself has to be built differently, in order to maintain the ability to keep precise time in a space that may be half the thickness, or less, of an ordinary dress watch. For this reason, true extra-thin watches tend to be made by companies that have been in the business for a while—long enough to build up the necessary expertise. For real connoisseurs, they’re desirable not just for the technical skill it takes to make them, or their incredible elegance (they’re still the only really correct watch for formal events, James Bond’s Rolex-with-tux notwithstanding), but also for the heritage of the companies that make them.
One of the least-known but most interesting pieces of pilot’s watch history is from an even more unlikely source: Cartier. Cartier’s most famous watch is, of course, the Tank (first sold in 1918 and in production ever since, speaking of classic dress watches), but it’s not often realized that the Santos was originally designed as a pilot’s watch, for the great aviation pioneer Alberto SantosDumont. Santos-Dumont, one of the first to successfully build and fly a heavierthan-air craft, was a friend to Louis Cartier. When he complained that a pocket watch wasn’t exactly practical for flying, Louis Cartier made a wristwatch for him, which Santos-Dumont wore while flying as early Panerai Radiomir as 1906. Though the watch has been made in a huge Composite Black Seal 3 Days Automatic variety of styles, the basic design’s still the same. It’s fascinating to note that in addition to being one of the Cartier Santos, original and current most successful watch models of all time, the Santos was also the first pilot’s watch. Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Diver’s watches are loved and worn by many who
What’s old is new again. Classic watch styles endure the test of time. Think Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Breguet, Piaget, and of course, Patek Philippe. intage-style chronographs are, for many, a reminder of some of the most important events in motorsports, with names like Daytona and Carrera representing both iconic competitions and the watches favored by drivers and enthusiasts. Although vintage-style dress chronographs are popular, the lion’s share of attention these days goes to sports chronographs, including models by companies like Rolex, Tudor and TAG Heuer which either revive favorite designs from the past, or which have actually never gone out of production (the Rolex Daytona is a case in point). For their part, pilot’s watches have remained one of the most enduringly appealing of all watch types. In the explosion of interest in civil aviation postWWII, some of today’s most memorable designs were first created, including Breitling’s Navitimer and the Rolex GMT Master (first made for Pan Am aircrews). Ironically, one of the most popular aviator’s watches of all time—the Omega Speedmaster Professional—was first designed for motorsports enthusiasts (its tachymetric bezel is designed to calculate average speed over a measured mile). But it became immortalized in watchmaking history as the timepiece worn by all Apollo crews, and it’s still flight-qualified by NASA today.
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never dive, though plenty of amateur and professional divers still use them, as a back-up to modern wrist-worn dive computers. They’re popular for both their rugged good looks and inherent durability. Not just any watch can be called a “diver’s watch”; there is actually an international standard which specifies, among other things, a 200-meter minimum water-resistance, shock resistance, and anti-magnetic resistance, as well as a certain minimum visibility in the dark, and a mandatory rotating timing bezel. Thanks to the rich history of the development of undersea exploration—and undersea warfare—in the 20th century, there are a wealth of choices, including the Rolex Submariner (in production continuously since it was introduced in 1954, and one of the most enduring designs of all time). As with the Santos, some of the earliest diver’s watches may be a surprise. Those who don’t know Panerai might dismiss their Radiomir and Luminor designs as mere exercises in style, but in fact they’re designs that originated in the 1950s (Luminor) and the 1930s (Radiomir), representing some of the first true diver’s watches ever made. Whether you’re looking for a watch that’s rich in history, or just a greatlooking timepiece that recalls the post-World War II Golden Age of mechanical watchmaking, there’s never been a better time to be a watch lover.
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SPOTLIGHT by Roberta Naas
HOT WATCHES
Today’s finest watchmakers are pulling out all the stops when it comes to timepiece design. Key men’s looks for the season include stealth chronographs to time his workouts. For women, classically chic styles that can easily move from business to an evening out are a must-have.
RAYMOND WEIL Jasmine From Raymond Weil, the new Jasmine timepiece represents the first time the brand has introduced an all-rose gold PVD over stainless steel watch for women—keeping totally on trend with the rose gold styles prevalent in today’s watch world. The timepiece is offered in 35 mm and 29 mm sizes, so women have a choice that meets their expectations and desires. Each watch features a sapphire crystal and an elegantly guilloched silvered dial with Roman numerals and date aperture at three o’clock. The Jasmine features a stainless steel with rose gold PVD bracelet that is bold yet supple, and delightfully alluring. The bracelet is meticulously finished with a folding clasp with double push security system. Offering both form and function, it is water resistant to 50 meters.
PANERAI PAM515 Radiomir 1940 3 Days Oro Rosso Those who love the iconic brand will be thrilled with the Officine Panerai PAM515 Radiomir 1940 3 Days Oro Rosso. The bold 47 mm, 18-karat rose gold case houses the 162-part hand-wound mechanical Panerai P. 3000 caliber—created entirely in house by Panerai. The 21-jeweled movement features an Incabloc anti-shock device for all your rugged sports, and offers three days of power reserve via two barrels. The Radiomir 1940 3 Days Oro Rosso recalls the brand’s rich history with the navy, and its brown dial and luminous numerals and markers are vintage inspired. The sapphire crystal is extra thick and features an anti-reflective coating. The caseback is a sapphire crystal as well, for viewing the superb movement. While classically alluring, the elegant watch is also water resistant to 50 meters.
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around town
Success STORY The Brady Arts District
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THOM GOLDEN
ot so long ago, most people would have written off downtown Tulsa. The one-time “Oil Capital of the World” was down on its luck, and after 5 p.m. the central business district became a ghost town. A series of public and private initiatives has changed all that, and the revitalization of downtown Tulsa is revered as a success story. Nowhere is this growth more apparent than in the Brady Arts District. Bounded by the Crosstown Expressway and Archer Street to the north and south, and Elgin and Denver Avenues to the east and west, it’s one of the oldest areas of Tulsa. Development in the Brady (as it’s called) has ramped up in recent years, transforming it from a blighted warehouse district into the city’s hottest arts and entertainment community. Artists were drawn to the Brady long before it was cool. Quirky spaces like Tulsa Glassblowing Studio, Brady Artists Studio and the Tulsa Artists’ Coalition Gallery were early tenants that helped shape the district, but no one could have predicted just how crucial this area would become to Tulsa’s cultural scene. In a few short years, the neighborhood became an arts epicenter when Living Arts of Tulsa opened, followed by the Zarrow Center for Art and Education, Philbrook Downtown, 108 Contemporary and the Woody Guthrie Center, which all share the sprawling Matthews Warehouse space. The icing on the cake was the recently opened Arts and Humanities Council of Tulsa’s state-of-the-art Hardesty Arts Center: an expansive new structure offering everything from exhibit spaces and studios to a high-tech woodworking shop. These diverse venues make the Brady Arts District a premier art destination any day, but if you want to see it at its best, mark your calendar for First Friday Art Crawl. On the first Friday of each month, the district comes to life with special exhibits, entertainment and a festival atmosphere that draws thousands. Nearly every area business gets in on the act. If you’re looking for live music, high-energy dance, a gourmet meal or a great cocktail, the Brady Arts District has it all. In fact, it’s the area’s legendary status as a destination for live music that helped put it on the map. Known as “the Carnegie Hall of Western Swing,” Cain’s Ballroom gained fame as the home of Bob Wills and the Texas Playboys in the 1930s. “The House That Bob Built” has hosted everyone from The Sex Pistols to U2.
Cain’s still draws an eclectic mix of acts and is considered one of the top venues of its kind in the world. Nearby Brady Theater has an illustrious history of its own and is still a popular spot for national touring acts. A host of homespun bars in the district also offer up Tulsa’s hottest acts; check out the schedule at Yeti, Soundpony or The Hunt Club for a taste of a local music scene that has some national music writers calling Tulsa the next Austin. Opened in 2012, Guthrie Green is both the backyard and the central hub of the Brady Arts District. This one-square-block urban geothermal park and entertainment space was gifted to the city by the George Kaiser Family Foundation. The park offers free year-round programming, including live concerts, movie nights, fitness classes and the extremely popular Food Truck Wednesdays. Dining options have expanded, and there’s great variety to be found within the Brady. Try the gourmet pub fare (including one of the best burgers in town) at The Tavern, or grab a spectacular sandwich and a cup of Joe at Chimera. Experience innovative takes on Mediterranean cuisine at Laffa or a brick oven pizza from Hey Mambo. If you’re celebrating a special occasion or looking to treat yourself, make reservations at Phryme for a one-ofa-kind steakhouse experience. Just looking to wet your whistle? Check out Valkyrie for serious cocktails made with handcrafted ingredients, or grab a beer at Caz’s, the Brady’s original hole in the wall. You can also sample the wines at ZIN or enjoy a fine Scotch and cigar at Classic Cigars & Lounge. Adding to the excitement is the residential boom in the Brady, which started with the redevelopment of Tribune Lofts, followed by other innovative uses of previously neglected buildings, such as the nearby Detroit Lofts. New developments such as the swanky Metro at Brady and GreenArch have brought more residents to the district, and the neighborhood is even home to downtown’s first grocery store in decades. Folks Urban Market and Pantry offer the essentials—plus homemade meals to go—to downtown dwellers. It’s hard to believe just how quickly things have happened in the Brady Arts District. But with such momentum and lots of real estate yet to be developed, you can expect even more great things to come. For more information, visit thebradyartsdistrict.com.
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BRENT HERRIG
Saul Bolton's Atlantic Black Bass with Braised Fennel, Sweet Pea Puree and Saffron Chamomile Sauce
BRENT HERRIG
food
CHEF SAUL BOLTON Saul, The Vanderbilt, Red Gravy Saul just reopened in a very exciting new location: the architecturally majestic Brooklyn Museum. How did the site change come about? It was serendipitous. After 14 years at our Smith Street place and wanting to redo and rehab Saul, we saw this as a great opportunity to be part of an iconic institution. We were able to keep everybody from the old Saul and just continue on in the new location—in a bigger space. To have that kind of continuity in your kitchen and in the front of the house is a gift. Manhattan’s Union Square Greenmarket is a destination for chefs as well as residents and tourists. Which markets in Brooklyn should people check out? We go to Grand Army Plaza on Saturdays. It’s a badass farmer’s market. Cadman Plaza in Downtown Brooklyn is Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. The Brooklyn Heights farmer’s market takes
FINE FARE
Discover a few Brooklyn chefs crafting delectable dishes in the borough no longer considered off-thebeaten-path. SHIRA LEVINE
care of the more specialty, esoteric stuff, like fresh lima beans and shishito peppers. The best fish purveyor in New York is also in Brooklyn. And we have great cheese purveyors here, like Saxelby in Red Hook. My favorite is Stinky in Cobble Hill. What do you make of all the attention Brooklyn has been getting? I’m really proud of where I live and I love to share it. I can cook foie gras in Brooklyn just as well as I can anywhere in Manhattan, and now people realize it. You’re the man behind Brooklyn Bangers, which has become quite a successful enterprise.
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hose who plan their travels around the gastronomic demands of the stomach (or rather, the palate) should point their appetites toward the newly haute Brooklyn food scene. No longer the borough where your grandfather played stickball, post-industrial Brooklyn is ripe with multi-million dollar urban mansion conversions and shiny glass skyscrapers. Even the most exclusive Manhattanites now salivate at the locally sourced, sustainably farmed charm of the varied dining options. People from Sweden to Singapore are dropping the phrase très Brooklyn when describing things ultra cool, and they’re chomping at the bit to feast on Brooklyn’s fare. While the borough has long had its culinary attractions—The River Café, Peter Luger’s, Junior’s— a new wave of chefs has recently arrived to elevate the epicurean landscape. Like the influx of locals trading in Manhattan zip codes for new Brooklyn digs, chefs are seeking more space, cheaper rent, and a less frenetic lifestyle that allows them to tinker with recipes and cultivate their own culinary visions. From back-to-basics dishes at cozy-chic restaurants, to Michelin-starred, fancy fine dining rivaling the best in the world, Brooklyn’s nouveau cuisine is giving Gotham’s more than 10,000 restaurants a run for their money. The small-village vibe of neighborhoods like Park Slope, Boerum Hill and Carroll Gardens provides a welcoming atmosphere that’s utterly un-Manhattan, yet just across the river.
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We wanted to do an American gastropub where we were making awesome sausages and charcuterie. It morphed into sausage-making equipment in the basement of The Vanderbilt. We started to sell them at the Brooklyn Flea, where some people wanted to buy them wholesale to serve at beer gardens and specialty stores. The Barclays Center approached us and we were like, “What the hell? Why not sell them at a basketball arena?” Next year we’ll be in Citi Field, MetLife Stadium and the Prudential Center, and we’ll be carried by [grocery delivery service] Fresh Direct. What are your favorite restaurants in Brooklyn? I love the tripe tacos at Tacos Matamoros in Sunset Park. I eat often at Al di La: great Italian in Park Slope. I also love Tanoreen’s Lebanese food in Bay Ridge.
CHEF PAUL LIEBRANDT The Elm at King & Grove Hotel Williamsburg and be a part of the changes here. It’s certainly an area everyone is flocking to, so it’s exciting to be a part of that momentum. This isn’t the Williamsburg of a decade ago. But traditionally you haven’t followed trends. I’m not a trendy person. I always have my own voice. I was in kitchens since I was 15 and that’s how I was trained. You have to be true to yourself. I came here for the project, not to be a pioneer or whatever. That isn’t me. I want to reach
EVAN SUNG
the clientele I would have never reached with Corton. The Elm is sophisticated casual. It has elements of fine dining, but I don’t say it’s fine dining. This is in Williamsburg, but this project is not about being on trend.
CHEF ZAHRA TONGORRA Brucie
It was a big deal coming here from Manhattan. Your
Will you work with The Elm to bring another Michelin star
success there and your culinary background in London and
to Brooklyn?
Paris make you a bit different than other chefs that have
I’m not thinking about Michelin stars. I’m focused on giving
crossed the East River.
customers a different view of what I’ve been doing and
What does it mean to be a chef in
I think it was a natural progression. To be part of an
what they’ve already been getting in Brooklyn.
Brooklyn?
exciting, youthful and creative area is a risk, but it is one
Since you’re still exploring, what is your favorite place to
It is profoundly exciting. Being a chef and
that makes sense. For me, this is a nice project that is
eat in Brooklyn so far?
also the sole owner, your emotions span
approachable and fun. It’s exciting to be here in
I love Roberta’s in Bushwick.
the spectrum from exhaustion to elation, heart warmth to heartbreak. Now more than ever there is a lot of pressure to be
Lisa Giffen's Duck Breast with Chanterelles, Beets and Cherries
innovative and relevant amongst such amazing talent throughout the borough. Some days it feels surreal that anyone knows my name or eats at my restaurant, and other days I feel really on top of my game and like I really belong where I am. The word “trendy” is often used when describing Brooklyn cuisine. How do you feel about that? Honestly, I love seeing trends, but Brooklyn as a place to eat is not a trend. It’s awesome when a chef starts using an
CHEF LISA GIFFEN Maison Premiere
ingredient heavily and then it becomes a thing. I love seeing how it then spreads from hood to hood, and how they each
Tell us how your family heritage has
worked for mostly French chefs or chefs
blasted for not being a certain way.
influenced you as a chef.
who learned from French chefs, and
Could Brooklyn ultimately steal
make that “fad” ingredient their own by
I was born in Korea, but I was adopted
I love the discipline and dedication it
Manhattan’s culinary thunder?
using it differently. There’s a friendly
and grew up in Germany. My culinary
takes to learn this cuisine. Many of the
Manhattan will never fail to be what it
competitive spirit here in Brooklyn, and
heritage comes from my parents. My
techniques have been used for hundreds
is, this great Mecca of food, culture,
that’s what has driven the greatness of
dad is from the Midwest, and my mom
of years, which I find pretty amazing;
luxury and innovation. Brooklyn,
the Brooklyn food scene today.
is from Northern California. They come
they withstand the test of time.
however, is the place to be all of that,
There is an obsession right now with
from agriculture backgrounds, so a
How would you describe Brooklyn’s
but on your own terms.
food scene to those who haven’t
What is one of your favorite Brooklyn
Brooklyn-born gourmet food items.
kitchen rich with vegetables and meats are part of my heritage. My
experienced it?
restaurants?
family loves food.
Brooklyn is like Manhattan’s rebellious
I enjoy St. Anselm in Williamsburg.
Maison Premiere is distinctly French,
sibling: raised the same, but doing it
They have such great affordable meats
and your past work under famed
their own way. Most of the chefs who
and some wonderful seasonal sides.
chefs like Alain Ducasse, Dan Barber
have settled into Brooklyn worked in
Why do you think there are so few
we are awfully lucky to have access to
and Ed Brown was also French
Manhattan for many years, so we all
notable women chefs?
natural foods and exciting foods on the
influenced. What is it about French
have a sense of what the highest
It’s not necessarily that there are
regular. Brooklyn is a community that
cuisine that inspires you?
standard is. In Brooklyn you retain
so few women chefs. It’s more, “Why
supports the ritual of food. I love moving
I’ve been classically French trained, so
those standards, but you can put your
are women chefs so unrecognized?”
back to the very basic idea of eating as
it’s something I know well. I have
own spin on it. In Brooklyn you aren’t
It’s 2014!
we were always intended to.
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It’s very cool when you can sustain doing these specialty things. I like when people do one thing really well. I hear people saying how ridiculous kale is, but
PERFECTGEMS
EXPLORE THE LITTLE LUXURIES THE WORLD HAS TO OFFER. DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON
LÉGENDAIRE NICE
From its venerable position on the Promenade des Anglais, the very grand Hotel Negresco in Nice, France has epitomized Côte d’Azur style for over 100 years. Collected behind the lofty facade is 400 years of French culture and art including works from the reign of Louis XIII and avantgarde sculptures (Picasso and Dali often stayed here). After viewing the hotel’s treasures, guests can watch the chic passing Riviera scene while sipping rosé in the outdoor lounge. The sommelier will take interested oenophiles off to one of the nearby vineyards for a tour and tastings. And dinner at Le Chantecler, the two Michelin-starred restaurant with a wine cellar containing 15,000 bottles, is a full evening’s experience. Of course, for those who come to Nice for the sea, the hotel has its own private beach.
MICHAEL RUDDIN
DISCOVERING NEW WINES FOR SUMMER
When dining at Vetro Restaurant & Lounge in Howard Beach, New York, guests can enter through the front door or dock their yachts at the marina. The menu includes classic Italian food and over 400 wines. According to Vetro’s sommelier, PJ Connolly, “Summer wines should be refreshing and you need to find a crisp, clean acidity.” The 2012 DAOU Vineyards Grenache Blanc Paso Robles from California is a grenache blanc with citrus and melon aromas and bright acidity. Nice for a barbeque. The 2012 Tenuta Guado al Tasso “Scalabrone” Rosato di Bolgheri, an Italian rosé, is blended from cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah. Fresh with a crisp finish, serve with fruit and light salads. The 2010 Pago De Los Capellanes Crianza, Ribera del Duero from Spain is 100 percent tempranillo and goes well with grilled meats and salsa verde. And from France comes the 2010 Domaine Faiveley Mercurey 1er Cru “Clos Des Myglands.” This pinot noir from the Côte Chalonnaise in Burgundy is a versatile wine: excellent with game meats or cheese, or by itself on a warm sunny day.
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A HORSE OF COURSE
Just 40 miles from Washington D.C. in Middleburg, Va., the Salamander Resort & Spa is set on 340 acres in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. It features luxurious suites, spa, cooking studio and wine bar, but it’s the great outdoors that beckons most visitors. In the Culinary Garden the chef teaches secrets of organic farming, and guests can pick herbs and produce for a cooking class or dine under the garden trellis. There are hiking and biking paths, tennis courts and croquet. Naturally, since the resort is surrounded by Virginia’s famed riding country, horses are a mane attraction (the resort has nine horses and two ponies, or you can bring your own). The Equestrian Program at Salamander includes a practice ring, instructional classes, and riding trails through woods and fields.
WRAPPING UP THE SEASON
ROBERT GODWIN
Before beginning her career as a couturiere, Jackie Rogers was a model for Coco Chanel and learned much of her craft, style and technique from the legendary designer. She’s created clothes for some of the most famous women in the world, including Julianne Moore, Condaleeza Rice, Roberta Flack, Nicole Kidman, Gwyneth Paltrow, Salma Hayek and Courtney Love. For this spring and summer Rogers suggests a wrap-tie blouse, which she makes to order in 100 different colors (she particularly likes it in shocking pink). “A tie blouse can go over anything and make everything look new and fresh again,” she explains. (And think of the jewelry options!)
STRAVINSKY IN SANTA FE
Every summer The Santa Fe Opera in New Mexico presents repertory and contemporary performances on a high mesa overlooking two mountain ranges, a setting unmatched anywhere in the world. This summer, the program includes Carmen, Fidelio, the American premiere of Dr. Sun Yat-Sen, and a special salute to one of the early supporters of this unique company. In 1957 Igor Stravinsky was invited for the first season. Intrigued by the innovative organization, the celebrated composer returned several times to direct and conduct his own operas. In 2014, Santa Fe pays tribute to Stravinsky with a performance of Le Rossignol, marking the 100th anniversary of the opera’s premiere in Paris. The nightingale doesn’t only sing in Berkeley Square.
59
essay
Getting
the Hint
How to get the jewelry gift you want. BETH BERNSTEIN
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IMAGE COURTESY OF AHEE JEWELERS
W
hether for birthdays or anniversaries, my female friends (knowing I’ve spent my career in the jewelry business) would tell me which sparkling baubles they wanted their husbands or boyfriends to buy for them. It was then up to me to subtly convince these guys to spend a year’s rent on something they didn’t understand or appreciate. Good news: I no longer have to go through all this. Most of my friends now take advantage of the digital wish lists provided by their favorite jewelers, which they can update throughout the year. In this way, they are able to more subtly communicate information to help their significant other choose the perfect gift. But—and there’s always a but—your guy might not be able to fathom what’s so fabulous about the spiky bracelet you covet, since he sees nothing sexy about sharp objects draped dangerously around your wrist. Ditto for the gorgeous diamond pavé snake choker: snakes terrify you in real life, but now you want to wear one around your neck? Nor will he comprehend why you’d want a rough- or rose-cut opaque, champagne or black diamond. Where’s the sparkle, he will wonder, worrying that no one will even know they’re diamonds… (Last year I spent two hours convincing one friend’s husband that an opaque gray rose-cut diamond pendant was what his wife truly wanted, and that it was, in fact, a “real” diamond.) If you aren’t married or engaged and he’s not popping the question anytime soon, forget about asking for a ring. Dismiss your dreams of receiving a large trendy Boulder opal, a three-dimensional fantasy ring, or a rose gold spider with diamond eyes to encircle your index finger. Rings are just too intimidating for single men. I once witnessed a guy break into a cold sweat when a store owner showed him a thin micro pavé diamond band in yellow gold. Didn’t matter that it was for his girlfriend’s pinky finger, where she already wore several other rings. To him, it looked too much like a wedding band. So my advice to women coveting a new piece of jewelry: purchase rings and more avant-garde styles as gifts for yourself, and start clueing in your favorite jeweler on the other pieces you crave. This season, guy-friendly pieces might include drop earrings in firey opal or rainbow moonstone: something with a magical feeling that changes color with the light. Or consider sentimental jewelry like an engraved locket or pendant. Perhaps he’ll even have it inscribed with symbols or words he lacks the courage to say himself. You know how he feels, don’t you? So help him out a bit! You will both win in the end.
© D.YURMAN 2014
BRUCE G. WEBER ACCENT THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS
SPRING/SUMMER 2014