May/June 2017 Wine Journal

wine journal May/Ju ne 2017

ABC F I N E W I N E & SPI R ITS W I N E MAGA ZI N E

Our Flight Club requires only a thirsty palate

MOTHER’S DAY PICKS

1 DISH, 5 WINES

Photography by Jacob Bailes

The ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Wine Journal is a bimonthly publication of ABC Fine Wine & Spirits. Copyright 2017 ABC Liquors, Inc. All rights reserved.

Not all products are available in all stores. If the product you’re looking for isn’t available, ask us to order it for you!

Prices in this publication have been rounded to the nearest dollar, including those ending in 8.

Allie Smallwood Editor allies@abcfws.com Meghan Guarino Contributing Editor meghang@abcfws.com OUR WINE EXPERTS: Jim Greeley Southwest Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Shayne Hebert Central Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Atanas Nechkov Central Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Paul Quaglini Southeast Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Bill Stobbs West Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Dan Eddy Northeast Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Dave Malone Northwest Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Brad Lewis Contributing Writer If you would like to ensure you’re receiving the Wine Journal each time it’s published, send an email to Jennifer Baker (JenniferB@abcfws.com) and we’ll add you to the “always mail” list.

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abcfws.com wine journal | A

“Show me how you drink and I will tell you who you are.”

- Emile Peynaud

3 5 6 8 9 10 12 13 14 16

The American love affair with Italian food and wines gets a convenient makeover.

Long, hot days call for crisp, cool glasses of rosé.

This Flight Club has everything to do with great wine.

Concha y Toro offers another stunning Cabernet Sauvignon.

The Prisoner Wine Company portfolio is worth diving into.

A Mother’s Day spread for the most adored moms.

New German wines we can’t get enough of.

Italy’s best for spring.

A tribute to Oregon Wine Month with the terroir-driven wines of Carlton Cellars.

This tropical Chardonnay from Spain is a no-brainer with shellfish and fruity salsas.

1 DISH, 5 WINES S H AY N E H E B E R T • @A B C W I N E S H AY N E • S H AY N E H @A B C F W S.C O M

R

isotto is an iconic and traditional Italian dish with dozens of interpretations, all of which have an affinity for

wine. Like Bouillabaisse or a thick rib-eye off the grill, I couldn’t imagine serving risotto without wine! When I make risotto, it is usually because I have a nice Italian red that I want to showcase, most often Barolo or Barbaresco.

However, rather than giving my suggestions for a pairing to risotto, I offer the opinions of those who know the dish better than I: Italian winemakers.

Tenuta Cavalier Pepe Nestor Greco di Tufo

Agostino Pavia & Figli Moliss Barbera d’Asti

La Calonica Calcinaio Sangiovese

With its natural acidity, body, weight and grip, this white wine will match well to the weight of the risotto, especially when mushrooms are an ingredient.

Recommended by Michele diGregorio, Tenuta Cavalier Pepe

With wild mushroom risotto, try Barbera Moliss, but if you are able to get fresh truffle, move up to the Marescialla ($27). It offers more power and perfume, as does the truffle.

Recommended by Mauro Pavia, Agostini Pavia & Figli

This blend has 15% Syrah, which will add spice and earth notes to match well with risotto topped with truffle.

Recommended by Giovanni Cattani, La Calonica

$15

$15

Nicolis Seccal Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso

$23

This Ripasso has the richness and spice to pair well with this flavorful dish.

Recommended by Martina Fornaser, Nicolis

$15

Fattoria La Gerla Birba Sangiovese

$30

The earthy quality of both the risotto and the wine make this pairing a match made in Italian cuisine heaven.

Recommended by Alberto Passeri, Fattoria La Gerla wine journal | 3

WINE LIST RED BARBERA Agostino Pavia & Figli Moliss

Barbera d’Asti, (p 3) Icardi Barbera d’Asti, (p 13)

CABERNET SAUVIGNON Collalto Torrai Cabernet Sauvignon Riserva, (p 7) Concha y Toro Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon, (p 8) Navigator Cabernet Sauvignon, (p 7)

MERLOT Thorn Merlot, (p 9)

PINOT NOIR

Block 815 Pinot Noir, (p 10) Ca’Momi Pinot Noir, (p 7) Carlton Cellars Seven Devils Pinot Noir, (p 7 & 14) Carlton Cellars Estate Pinot Noir, (p 14) Carlton Cellars Road’s End Pinot Noir, (p 14) Casas del Bosque Reserva Pinot Noir, (p 7) Champy Bourgogne Pinot Noir Signature, (p 6-7) Jules Taylor Pinot Noir, (p 7) Styring Pinot Noir, (p 10)

B Chardonnay, (p 7) DiGiorgio Chardonnay, (p 7) Jules Taylor Chardonnay, (p 7) La Bollina Beneficio, (p 7) Legado Muñoz Chardonnay, (p 16) Moutard-Diligent Chablis, (p 7) Shannon Ridge Reserve Chardonnay, (p 10)

EISWEIN

Pauly Noble Eiswein, (p 12)

PINOT GRIGIO

La Cappuccina Pinot Grigio, (p 7)

PINOT GRIS Carlton Cellars Pinot Gris, (p 14)

Pappas Wine Co. Pinot Gris, (p 7)

RIESLING

Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Spätlese, (p 12) Thanisch Riesling Old Vine, (p 12) Thanisch Bernkasteler Doctor Kabinett, (p 12) Two Princes Riesling, (p 12)

SAUVIGNON BLANC Domaine Bernard Fleuriet et

Fils Sancerre, (p 7) Jackie Sauvignon Blanc, (p 7)

RED BLEND Chionetti Dolcetto San Luigi, (p 13)

VERMENTINO Santa Maria La Palma Blu

SANGIOVESE Fattoria La Gerla Birba, (p 3)

Arctic Fox White Blend, (p 10) Blindfold White, (p 9) Tenuta Cavalier Pepe Nestor Greco di Tufo, (p 3)

Cuttings Red, (p 9) The Prisoner, (p 9)

La Calonica Calcinaio, (p 3)

SHIRAZ Serafino Shiraz, (p 7) SYRAH Domaine des Remizières

Crozes-Hermitage Cuvée Particulière, (p 7)

VALPOLICELLA Nicolas Seccal Valpolicella Classico

Superiore Ripasso, (p 3)

ZINFANDEL Saldo Zinfandel, (p 9)

WHITE ARNEIS

Cascina Chicco Arneis, (p 13) wine journal | 4

CHARDONNAY A to Z Chardonnay, (p 10)

Vermentino, (p 13)

WHITE BLEND

ROSÉ

Château Trians Rosé, (p 5) Domaine de Pellehaut Harmonie de Gascogne Rosé, (p 5) Domaine Vetriccie AOP Corse Rosé, (p 5) Domaine Vetriccie IGP Ile de Beauté Rosé, (p 5) Giovanna Tantini Bardolino Chiaretto, (p 13)

SPARKLING

Moutard Demi-Sec Grand Cuvée,

(p 10) Haton Brut Reserve, (p 10) Charles Mignon Brut 1er Cru Grand Reserve, p (10)

Rosé Time ATA N A S N E C H KO V • @A B C W I N E ATA N A S • ATA N A S N@A B C F W S.C O M

The popularity of dry rosés from

and that keeps it one of the most au-

Southern France has grown vastly;

thentic and untouched provinces in

in a very short time the U.S. has

France. Martin and Mathieu Béraut,

become the world’s second largest

are the two brothers at the reins of

consumer of dry rosé—after France,

this large 180-hectare, 300-year-old

of course. In fact, the consumption

family wine estate, one of the oldest

of dry rosé in these two countries

vineyards in the Gers department.

is currently higher than the rest of

The domain also produces a range of

the world combined. That comes

Armagnacs and has a cattle farm—

yet bright and fruity (perfect bal-

rosés this year: the IGP Ile de

ance!). The vineyards at Château

Beauté ($10) and the latest addition

Trians were first planted to the vine

to the rosé portfolio, the AOP

20 centuries ago when the domain’s

Corse Rosé ($13), a blend of 50%

Domaine de Pellehaut Harmonie

lands were part of a large Roman

Niellucci, 35% Sciacarell, 15% Gren-

de Gascogne Rosé ($8), a blend of

villa, Villa Triana. Today, the winery

ache. Domaine Vetriccie IGP Ile de

Merlot, Cabernet, Tannat and Syrah,

at Château Trians is equipped with

Beauté Rosé is a blend of the local

exhibits raspberry pink color and

the latest technology in vinification

grapes Niellucci and Sciacarell with

aromas and flavors of strawberries,

equipment. The wine is a matter

Grenache and Merlot. It exhibits

raspberries and lavender. Enjoy with

The first wines from the new 2016

of love, intuition and precision; all

pale, salmon-pink color and aromas

grilled meats, grilled vegetables, fish

vintage are already making their

these factors come together to create

and flavors of strawberries, red

and mixed salads. o

appearance on our shelves. This

near perfect wines.

currant and white peaches with a

as no surprise, because dry rosés are so food-friendly that it could be argued they’re the most versatile of all wines. With light to medium intensity, dry rosés are bright, fruity and perfectly refreshing on a hot Florida day and are the best match for summer cookouts.

vintage was certainly a complicated year for most wine regions in Northern France, with the biggest losses in the Loire Valley, Champagne and Burgundy. Fortunately, vines in the southern region were safe from hard climatic conditions and the sanitary health of the vineyards remained excellent.

The 2016 Château Trians Rosé, a blend of 40% Grenache, 40% Cinsault and 20% Syrah, exhibits light, salmon-pink color and aromas and flavors of strawberry, cranberry and field flowers. The mouthfeel is rich

all this in the harmony of a rich surrounding biodiversity.

touch of orange peel. This well-balanced and refreshing rosé will be prefect served as aperitif, with light appetizers, mixed salads, grilled fish and fresh seafood, cold cuts and Mediterranean dishes.

and perfectly balanced with pure fruit, refreshing acidity, medium intensity and a long, round finish.

Enjoy as aperitif or served with mixed salads, seafood dishes, grilled meats and aged cheeses.

Corsican rosés are the newest trend for dry rosé. They are stylistically

A personal favorite, Château Trians Rosé, ($15 ) is a spectacular achievement. It’s round, with rich texture,

similar to those from Provence, pale

Domaine de Pellehaut is located

in color, dry and fruity, but with

in Gascony, an area in South West

unique minerality.

France just south of Bordeaux.

From the beautiful island of Corsica,

Gascony is “off the beaten path” –

Domaine Vetriccie presents two

tourists are still rare around there, wine journal | 5

FL I GH T C L U B BILL STOBBS • @ABCWINEBILLS • WSTOBBS@ABCFWS.COM

I

f there’s one thing a wine lover loves more than sipping on their favorite beverage it’s sharing the wine experience with friends.

Enjoying a glass of wine in solitary silence is fine, but wine is really a celebration to be shared with others. Wine is about friendship, laughter, conversation and fun! A flight party satisfies all of the above – a party whose whole purpose is centered on good times with our favorite tipple.

How might one pull this off? First, pick a theme. Your theme can be as simple as “Great Wines at Value Prices” or it can be centered on a holiday – a good example is “Red, White and Rosé” for Independence Day. Next, set the date and invite all of your best wine friends. It doesn’t matter if they don’t know a lot about wine – as long as they are

wine journal | 66

open to the experience. As host you could even ask each of your friends to bring a bottle that fits your theme. That gets everyone involved and interested.

No need to get too serious. Just remember – the point of the whole exercise is to have fun with your friends, and perhaps to open your eyes to an even wider world of wine.

You will need to supply the wine glasses of course, and a dump bucket just to be safe – you don’t want your guests crawling out your door at the end of the evening! Water is always good to have – it is important to rehydrate when you are drinking wine. A sit-down dinner isn’t necessary but it is always nice to provide such items as cheese, bread, hummus, crackers, olives, nuts and salami. Paper and pens are handy to jot down any thoughts, inspirations or notable wines. You may want to have your guests privately score each wine and at the end of the evening add the scores up to reveal the group’s favorite.

We have one last suggestion for the “efficient” wine-o. On the evening of the last Wednesday or Thursday of every month (depending on where you are in Florida) select ABC stores offer a $5 Wine Tour. Each month has a theme and there are three tables of wines for you to taste and enjoy. It’s a casual, small tasting and a lot of fun. Plus, our wine specialists are there to talk to you about the wines and answer any questions. Most of all it’s an excellent chance to taste some great wines and meet some new friends.

Visit abcfws.com/5dollarwinetour to find one near you. We look forward to seeing you there! o

SUGGESTED WINE FLIGHTS Pinot Noir From Around the World: • Champy Bourgogne Pinot Noir Signature, Burgundy, France ($23) • Ca’ Momi Pinot Noir, Napa, California ($22) • Casas del Bosque Reserva Pinot Noir, Casa- blanca, Chile ($15) • Jules Taylor Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand ($18) • Carlton Cellars Seven Devils Pinot Noir, Willamette, Oregon ($20)

Chardonnay From Around the World: • B Chardonnay, Lake County, California ($17) • DiGiorgio Chardonnay, Coonawarra, Australia ($20) • Moutard-Diligent Chablis, Burgundy, France ($18) • La Bollina Beneficio, Monferrato, Italy ($16) • Jules Taylor Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand ($15)

New World Vs. Old World: • Pappas Wine Co. Pinot Gris, Willamette, Oregon ($16) vs. La Cappuccina Pinot Grigio, Veneto, Italy ($13) • Jackie Sauvignon Blanc, Napa, California ($15) vs. Domaine Bernard Fleuriet et Fils Sancerre, Loire Valley, France ($20) • Navigator Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, California ($30) vs Collalto Torrai Cabernet Sauvignon Riserva, Piave, Italy ($30) • Serafino Shiraz, McLaren Vale, Australia ($19) vs. Domaine Remizières Cuvée Particulière Crozes-Hermitage, Rhône, France ($20)

wine journal | 7

DON MELCHOR – An Icon in Chile BRAD LEWIS • CONTRIBUTING WRITER

G

Mediterranean climate with hot

a very complex process and no de-

Being a Cabernet Sauvignon with

comes from vineyards around

and sunny summer days, but

tail can be overlooked if we want

good acidity and soft tannins, it

the world. It’s one of the most

because it is very close to the

to achieve the greatest potential

pairs well with different styles of

well-traveled grape varieties even

mountains, it benefits from the

from the grapes and their terroir,”

beef, such as roast beef, braises

though its home is the Médoc

moderating effects of the Andes,

he said.

and stews or beef bourguignon. It

and Graves of Bordeaux (the soil

which helps prevent excessive

here is dry with a bed of stones

heat during the day and causes the

for good drainage – Cabernet

temperatures to drop dramatically

doesn’t like its feet wet). However,

at night.” This contributes to the

one of the premier vineyards for

aromatic complexities of Puente

Cabernet on the planet is in Chile.

Alto Cabernet Sauvignon, as well

And one of Chile’s continuous-

as their expression of fresh red

ly highest scoring winemakers,

fruit with mineral notes recalling

Enrique Tirado of Concha y Toro’s

pencil lead. Tirado also stated

Don Melchor, has time-tested

that these wines “are extremely

insights into the whys and hows

well-balanced on the palate with

of great Cab. Tirado has overseen

refined tannins, good concentra-

reat Cabernet Sauvignon

Don Melchor since 1997 and

tion and fresh fruit character with

Concha y Toro is renowned for planting at the best sites in the country. The Puente Alto vineyard sits 2,208 feet above sea level on the northern bank of the Maipo River. The alluvial soil and large rolled stones carried down from the Andes by the river provide the perfect soil type for Cabernet Sauvignon. The most intense grapes come from poor soil that wouldn’t grow anything else but

is also excellent with game, lamb, duck and even pasta dishes with meat-based sauces. And because Don Melchor has all the elegance of a fine Bordeaux, it pairs extremely well with classic French cuisine. Tirado suggests pairing it with assorted dry, aged cheeses, like cow’s milk (Gruyère, Comté, Tomme de Savoie, Parmesan and Cantal) or sheep’s milk (Manchego), as well as creamy cheeses such as Camembert, brie or

every vintage under his guidance

a long and lingering finish.”

weeds. Drainage is excellent with

has ranked among the finest wines

With Don Melchor, it’s a matter of

the porous soil and into the river.

The wine is typically 91% Caber-

Cool breezes at night from the

net Sauvignon and 9% Cabernet

mountains drop the temperature

Franc aged 15 months in French

in the vineyards dramatically and

oak barrels, (66% new and 34%

in the daytime, the bright sun

used). Reviews in the press have

warms the vines and promotes

been consistently high and the

ripeness. The difference allows

2012 vintage is current:

of the year from Chile.

attention to detail. Don Melchor is Enrique Tirado

rainwater moving quickly through

the grapes to ripen gradually and

L’Explorateur.

ing freshness.

Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Don Melchor 2012 – Puente Alto, Chile, $100, 750mL

It’s this freshness (and superb

“Suave and refined, with rich,

aging ability) that links back

dense flavors of dried berry, dark

to its specific and identifiable

plum, rose petal and bramble.

develop subtleties while maintain-

“Terroir is all about the place,

the result of meticulously manag-

geographic location. “This very

Offers fine-grained tannins and

the climate, the vines and their

ing every step of the process, from

valuable terroir results in a wine

accents of green olive. Finishes

management, and the Puente Alto

the vine to the bottle. Tirado and

with excellent acidity, firm tannins

with hints of hot stone, dried

Vineyard has the perfect combi-

his team manage the vineyard row

and its own unique, recognizable

beef and white pepper. Complex.

nation of unique conditions that

by row in order to attend to the

and inimitable personality and

Drink now through 2022.”

gives us such great Cabernets,”

needs of every vine and achieve

an expression that evolves and

95 points, Wine Spectator o

Tirado explained in an interview.

the perfect balance with respect to the year’s weather conditions. “It’s

develops extraordinarily well over

“Puente Alto has a warm, dry, wine journal | 8

the years,” Tirado shared.

Prisoner Wines DAVE MALONE • @ABCWINEDAVEM • DAVEM@ABCFWS.COM

I

Chrissy: That’s a tough one. The

Mountain AVA. It has chalky,

ney, owner/winemaker of Orin

Prisoner, but that changes. Not

rocky soil. We receive Chardonnay,

Swift Cellars, crafted a 385-case

only is it a really nice, approach-

Syrah and Cabernet from there,

blend of Zinfandel and other

able red wine with velvety tan-

and it is exceptional.

mixed grapes with a label bearing

nins, but it’s the original gateway

It is a high elevation at 1,500

a drawing of a prisoner done

to the opening of minds of many

feet, above the fog line. It is

by Francisco de Goya, a famous

wine drinkers old and new. Just

a fantastic location.

Spanish Enlightenment artist.

look—the bottle itself is intrigu-

This wine would go on to receive

ing. Then you pull the cork and

rave reviews from notable wine

it’s a whole new world. It’s unlike

Chrissy: The Prisoner and Blind-

critics and develop a cult-like fol-

anything else anyone has had.

fold are tasty on their own, but

lowing among red wine drinkers.

It’s a good opportunity for even

pair well with a variety of things.

By the time Phinney sold The

those who don’t drink a lot of

As for Thorn, a Merlot-dominant

Prisoner in 2013, it had grown to

wine to open that door into the

blend, Saldo, a Zinfandel, and

a total production of 75,000 cases

wine world.

Cuttings, I suggest pairing these

t all began in 2003. Dave Phin-

and completely revolutionized the high-end red blend category.

Today, The Prisoner, along with

Chrissy Whittmann

sister labels Saldo, Thorn, Cuttings and Blindfold, is crafted by winemaker Chrissy Whittmann at The Prisoner Wine Company.

I recently had the opportunity

Dave: It seems you, the winemaker, can’t even deny the mystique of the label. You also note the curiosity of Blindfold, your only white wine, a unique blend of Chardonnay and other varietals that remind me of a Southern Rhône blend.

Chrissy: Blindfold has really

to speak with Chrissy about her

complex aromatics and mouth-

role at the winery, her favorite

feel. Many people who drink a lot

vineyards, the style of her wines,

of white wines don’t really know

and the future of The Prisoner Wine Company.

what to expect from Blindfold,

Dave: What attracted you to The Prisoner Wine Company?

wine world.

so it opens up a whole new white

Dave: I see you work with a number of top vineyard sites throughout Northern California.

Any favorites?

Chrissy: It gave me an opportunity to work with a lot of regions and vineyards I’ve always wanted to work with. It has a really loyal

Chrissy: Some of my favorites

following and reaches all different

have to do with the challenge

types of consumers. It’s unique

of getting there. A lot of the

in its creation, a throwback to

the torch passed to me.

acidities and added structure.

Dave: Tell me about the future for The Prisoner Wine Company?

Chrissy: I think there’s a definite future beyond the current line.

There’s stuff we are working on on the winemaking side to hopefully bring out to the consumer over the coming years. There is a sense of intrigue with the label. It provides an opportunity to grab a special bottle and have people say ‘what the heck is this?’

ABC Fine Wine & Spirits is one of the few retailers in the state of Florida to currently carry all five labels from The Prisoner Wine Company. Fans of unique, memorable wines should not hesitate to try these. o

the middle of nowhere and are

blends in Napa Valley. It put red ury way, and I am happy to have

with foods for their high-toned

vineyards we source from are in

the origin of grape growing and blends back on the map in a lux-

Dave: What about pairings?

small… they provide exceptional Dave: What is your favorite

fruit. One of those vineyards is

wine in the portfolio and why?

Bismark Vineyard in the Moon wine journal | 9

CHEERS TO THE MAMAS ALLIE SMALLWOOD • @ABCWINECOUNTRY • ALLIES@ABCFWS.COM

T

hink, for just a moment, about all the things that moms deal with: Stinky socks, sassy backtalk and playing part-time tutor (who else knows the rules of grammar so well?) are just a few of the things she happily endures on a daily basis. Moms always seem to make sure everyone is fed and the clothes are ironed. She ensures that flowers are in the garden and that your hair is always freshly cut.

For everything Mom does without effort, it’s pretty obvious that what she really wants on Mother’s Day can only be found at ABC. Since she deserves only the best, we’ve constructed a wine and cheese pairing guide just for her.

When most people craft a cheeseboard, they focus on hitting all the flavor bases: sharp, nutty, creamy, fresh and funky. For this occasion, focus instead on hitting these bases: aged, young, goat and blue. Next, add some bread, crackers, fruit and nuts to serve as the anchor for your palate (you and Mom are going to sip a lot of delicious wines, so you’ll need these!). Think bread sticks for height, toasted baguettes for spreads, and crackers for crunch. If you want to add another level of complexity and aesthetics to your board, consider some spreads: Bacon jam, olive tapenade, red pepper jelly, fruity marmalades, Sierra Nevada mustards and honey are great candidates. Dried or fresh fruits add the sweetness to balance out savory cheese, and salty nuts or olives will enhance flavors.

{ { Once you gather your cheese it’s time to gather the wines.

Pair these wines with soft, creamy cheese like brie or goat. They also harmonize well

with nutty cheese like Parmesan, Asiago or Fontina.

Moutard Demi-Sec Grand Cuvée, $30 (750mL) Moutard’s Demi-Sec is 100% Pinot Noir planted on clay/limestone soil. The grapes are hand-harvested and fermentation is done in stainless steel. The wine is aged for 36 months in bottle and has 40 grams per liter of residual sugar. The wine shows just a touch of fruitiness with toasty almond notes.

Haton Brut Reserve, $35 (750mL) A racy Champagne, with a subtle, smoky base note underscoring the flavors of black raspberry, pastry, lemon zest and peach. Creamy through to the spiced finish.

Pair these wines with buttery, slightly sweet cheeses like Jarlsberg, baby Swiss or Butterkäse.

Charles Mignon Brut 1er Cru Grand Reserve, $40 (750mL) Citrus notes (lemon and grapefruit) followed by floral notes, honey and fruit drop.

Pair these wines

{

with Gruyère, a smoky bleu or any other robust cheese with a less heavy mouthfeel.

wine journal | 10

Arctic Fox White Blend, $12 (750mL) An outstanding white table wine with vibrant flavors suggesting citrus, tangerine and peach. Off dry, perfect as an aperitif or with a broad range of foods.

A to Z Chardonnay, $14 (750mL) Aromas of green apple, honeysuckle blossoms, freshly cut honeydew and lime evolves to quince, chamomile and beeswax.

Shannon Ridge Reserve Chardonnay, $20 (750mL) Aromas of Bartlett pears, ripe melon, coconut and butterscotch. Flavors of citrus and fresh pear balance the palate. Lush and juicy midpalate with lingering notes of vanilla, spice and coconut oak.

Styring Pinot Noir, $35 (750mL) Aromas of pepper and spice lead into juicy berry and cherry. Lush finish with touch of espresso.

Block 815 Pinot Noir, $23 (750mL) It has vivid fruit character reminiscent of wild cherry and blueberry with fragrant hints of rose petal, hibiscus flower and mountain sage.

wine journal | 11

New German Riesling JIM GREELEY • @ABCWINEJIMG • JAMESG@ABCFWS.COM

P

age. Try a bottle from the excellent 2011 vintage

place better than Riesling. For me personally, the

of Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling

nexus of great Riesling is undoubtedly Germa-

Spätlese ($25) grown on the steep slopes of

ny, the wellspring for the varietal. Here Riesling

the famed “sundial” vineyard above the town

readily adapts to many different soil-types and

of Zeltingen. It’s an elegant, sophisticated wine

exposures, resulting in wines with distinct

displaying white peach, apple and lemon curd,

characteristics while aptly displaying the varietal’s

delicate acidity and tell-tale minerality from the

vibrant acidity and potential for aging. Supporting

prized Devonian slate sub-soil of this highly

erhaps no other white grape embodies sense of

my assertion are the prime growing regions of

Felix Prinz

the Mosel, Rheingau, Rheinhessen and Nahe as

regarded site.

Two Princes Riesling ($13) is produced by wine-

expressed through the genius of some of the

Sofia Thanisch

top producers in the country.

maker Felix Prinz zu Salm-Salm at Schloss Wallhausen. As the name suggests, Felix is literally

Two such outstanding talents hail from

wine royalty. Along with his brother Michael (the

the Mosel.

second prince of Two Princes) they remarkably represent the 32nd generation of the Salm-Salm

Since 1636, the Thanisch family has cultivated

family to run this iconic winery in the Nahe.

wine continuously at the estate of Weingut Wwe.

Schloss Wallhausen is the oldest estate winery in

Dr. H. Thanisch, Erben Thanisch – VDP. Now

Germany under continuous family ownership.

managed by the 11th generation, Sofia Thanisch

Felix and Michael own roughly 43 hectares of

and her daughters Christina and Juliane oversee

vineyards in both the Rheinhessen and Nahe

16 acres of Riesling in the hamlet of Bernkas-

regions, all of it organically farmed.

tel-Kues. These include significant holdings in the acclaimed Bernkasteler Doctor, Bernkasteler

Rieslings produced in Germany can range

Badstube, Bernkasteler Lay and Bernkasteler

from dry, crisp Trocken wines to unctuous

Graben vineyards.

dessert-styled wines. The concept of allowing fully-ripe grapes to freeze on the vine to concen-

The legendary Doctor vineyard is considered a

trate the natural sugars is an ostensibly German

national treasure in Germany. Riesling derived

notion. The first commercial Eiswein (literally

from this small 3.25-acre vineyard purportedly

Ice Wine) was produced in the country in the

cured the Archbishop of Trier of his ailments

Felix Prinz

during his visit to the region back in the 14th century.

late 18th century. Weingut Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler makes Noble House Eiswein ($25, 375ml)

Sofia Thanisch also produces Villa Thanisch

from fruit sourced in the Rheinhessen. The wine

VDP Thanisch Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling

Riesling Old Vines ($14), a superb value in zesty,

is golden-hued in the glass with rich notes of

Kabinett ($30) is expressive with spicy scents,

semi-dry styled Riesling with persistent green

candied quince and apricots with a smoky hint of

golden apple, peach pie and apricot skin wrapped

apple, pear and mineral notes.

Lapsang Souchon tea on the long, honeyed finish.

in a tense core of zesty acidity. It’s approachable now with schnitzel and potato pancakes, but will undoubtedly stand the test of time and cellar for a decade or more.

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Johannes Selbach of Weingut Selbach-Oster also makes compelling wines that are highly drinkable in their youth and yet possess remarkable potential to gain and develop with considerable

Eiswein is a good match for white chocolate desserts, bread pudding, blue-veined cheeses or even foie gras. o

SCRUMPTIOUS Springtime Wines from Italy PAUL QUAGLINI • @ABCWINEPAULQ • PAULQ@ABCFWS.COM

S

pring is here in Florida, so let’s enjoy the season while it lasts. This time of year, I’m looking for easy-drinking wines that are bright and refreshing with mouthwatering acidity.

I truthfully can’t think of better place to find wines that fit this description than my beautiful adopted country of Italy.

Tantini Chiaretto $14 (750mL) One of the best known Italian rosés is Bardolino Chiaretto. It has enticing aromas of red cherry, fresh flowers and sweet spices.

Chionetti Dolcetto San Luigi $22 (750mL) Dolcetto, like Barbera, is native to Piedmont.

Nicola Chionetti’s Dolcetto is beautifully expressive with raspberries, crushed flowers and cinnamon spice on the palate.

Santa Maria La Palma Vermentino Blu $13 (750mL) Vermentino Blu is the richer Vermentino of the two Sardinian types. Both Arogosta and Vermentino Blu have that definite saline nuance on the finish that make this wine irresistible.

Cascina Chicco Arneis $21 (750mL) I have fallen in love with the “little rascal,” as it is referred to in the local Piedmont dialect.

A delicious white wine that bursts from the glass with aromas of juicy apricots, peaches and white flowers.

Icardi Barbera $19 (750mL) The cool, long growing season provided by the Langhe and Monferrato hills create the perfect environment for Barbera to shine. The Wine Spectator said it’s “a lush version, packed with blackberry, black currant and spice flavors, this red is firm and vibrant.” o

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CRICKETS AT CARLTON CELLARS DANIEL EDDY • @ABCWINEDANE • DANE@ABCFWS.COM

I

a visit to the Road’s End (which would become

commitment to the environment shows in the

to do with Oregon wine, particularly Carlton

the name of their famous first—and flagship—

quality of his wines, from the zesty Pinot Gris

Cellars? The answer might surprise you and

wine), and a few years of bicoastal travel. In

($17), to his incredibly affordable Seven Devils

speaks of the philosophy and methodology of

2003 Dave planted the first block of Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir ($20), to his classical Estate Pinot

this outstanding Oregon winery.

at their Estate Vineyard, just east of the town

Noir ($33) and to their premier Pinot Noir,

of Carlton, and in 2007 they opened Carlton

the original, Road’s End ($45).

have a riddle for you: What do crickets have

I met with Dave Grooters, co-owner, winemaker and vineyard manager at Carlton Cellars, a few months back. We talked about his wines, Oregon winemaking in general, and the magical sound

Cellars winery facility and tasting room in Carlton. They can now produce 10,000 cases in small fermenters.

The 2012 Carlton Cellars Estate Pinot Noir is all estate-grown fruit with 15% new oak and is an incredible value Oregon Pinot. It smells

of thousands of crickets in the vineyard. Dave’s

Carlton Cellars has 25 acres located between

like ripe cherries cascading down a granite wa-

love affair with Oregon began in 1979 when

Ken Wright and Etude vineyards, and over the

terfall. Complex aromas from lilacs to cherry

he visited his old friend Nick Peirano of Nick’s

years they have made some impressive innova-

rhubarb pie mingle with an earthy undertone

Italian Café in McMinnville, who introduced

tions to Oregon winemaking, including a min-

to make this a surprisingly rich Pinot Noir.

him to all the big names in Oregon winemak-

imum till device they invented. Utilizing a new

Finishes with pink peppercorn, spice box and

ing. Over the next decade, Dave visited every

blade design they can cut roots of the cover

a tart chalkiness on the tongue showing

chance he could. In 1995, he took the plunge

crop but seeds remain and become a “lid” that

balance between minerality and ripe fruit.

and sold his software company to volunteer

holds in moisture. In line with this minimalist

This Pinot can pair with heartier fare like

with wine legend Ken Wright during crush.

approach they have committed to sustainable

roasted lamb or venison, yet is elegant enough

The following year, Ken asked Dave to be his

practices, including water conservation and

to work with cedar plank salmon or roasted

vineyard manager for Canary Hill.

minimal chemical additions. Here is where

chicken and veggies.

During one of his coast-to-coast flights, Dave met Robin Russell, who he would later marry in 1995—but only after an incredible visit to Oregon with barrel tastings, dinner at Nick’s,

wine journal | 14

we get back to the crickets: When you visit the vineyards at Carlton Cellars, you hear a natural orchestra of healthy insects while many other larger wineries are bathed in silence (as well as pesticides and herbicides). This long-term

Sometimes in both good and bad years, a little patience and fortitude is all that’s required to make good wine. Just listen for the crickets. o

Dave Grooters

Sunset Vines

wine journal | 15

8989 South Orange Ave. Orlando, Florida 32824

W INE

TO

WATCH:

Legado Muñoz Chardonnay AROMA :

PINEAPPLE AND MANGO WITH A CITRUS UNDERCURRENT VA R IETA L:

Chardonnay FL AVO R :

Expressive and fruit-forward with crisp acidity BO DY:

Medium-bodied wine journal | 16

CO L O R:

BRIGHT STRAW YELLOW

FI N I S H:

Smooth, fresh and well-rounded RE GI O N :

Castilla, Spain PA I R

WI TH: