Wine Journal: March/April 2017

wine journal Ma rch /Ap r i l 2017

ABC F I N E W I N E & SPI R ITS W I N E MAGA ZI N E

PARATUS: a rare breed we can’t keep in stock

Five generations of Napa winemaking at Pestoni

The ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Wine Journal is a bimonthly publication of ABC Fine Wine & Spirits. Copyright 2017 ABC Liquors, Inc. All rights reserved.

Not all products are available in all stores. If the product you’re looking for isn’t available, ask us to order it for you!

Prices in this publication have been rounded to the nearest dollar, including those ending in 8.

Allie Smallwood Editor allies@abcfws.com

“A woman drove me to drink and I never even had the courtesy to thank her.”

– W. C. Fields

Ricasoli family could be 3 The 11 one of the oldest winemaking families in Italy.

5

Meghan Guarino Contributing Editor meghang@abcfws.com

Lesser known varietals are the ones to keep your thirsty eyes peeled for.

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The French Libations trip was so good we’re still recapping.

Fans of crisp, unoaked whites, rejoice! Albariño is having a moment.

OUR WINE EXPERTS: Jim Greeley Southwest Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Shayne Hebert Central Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Atanas Nechkov Central Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Paul Quaglini Southeast Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Bill Stobbs West Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Dan Eddy Northeast Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Dave Malone Northwest Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Brad Lewis Contributing Writer If you would like to ensure you’re receiving the Wine Journal each time it’s published, send an email to Jennifer Baker (JenniferB@abcfws.com) and we’ll add you to the “always mail” list.

Follow us on Twitter @abcwinecountr y.

We’re also blogging daily at blog.abcfws.com.

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abcfws.com wine journal | A

A rare breed of pinnacle territory from Napa Valley that won’t stay on our shelves.

Affordable and artisanal, these Finger Lake Rieslings show a new level of appeal.

Five generations of Napa Valley winemakers WOW the market with their blends.

13 14 16

Despite political upheaval and changes in currency and weather, Argentine wines grow in adoration.

Ferrari-Carano: Wine by women.

Lodi is known for wines with layers of juicy dark fruit, but this bottle stands tall with unique spices.

What’s Old IS NEW NEW PAUL QUAGLINI • @ABCWINEPAULQ • PAULQ@ABCFWS.COM

O

Last spring I had the pleasure of meeting

inhabitants of the Italian peninsula have

Francesco Ricasoli, the 32nd Baron of Brolio.

fostered a wine-loving culture. Spectacular

He was honest and passionate about his fami-

vineyards have been planted and impressive

ly’s financial difficulties during the 1970s that

wineries built in every region of this diverse

forced them to sell the estate to the Seagram

country. From the foothills of the Alps to the

Company. He went on to explain that when

toe of the boot and the islands of Sicily and

the family finances rebounded in 1993 he was

Sardinia, wine is omnipresent. With so much

able to purchase back the castle and winery.

history it would be nearly impossible to

Since then he has replanted the vineyards

declare one winery as the oldest, but the

and updated almost everything in the winery.

Ricasoli family has plenty of evidence to

His mission is to make his family wines the

justify their claim.

benchmark of the Chianti Classico region

ver a period of nearly 4,000 years, the

The name Ricasoli has been linked to wine

once again.

since 1141 when the majestic Brolio Castle

Fans of aromatic, juicy, delicious Chianti

passed into the hands of the family. From its

may already be familiar with the iconic Rocca

perch 1,575 feet above sea level, the castle

Guicciarda label that has been in our stores

looks down on nearly 600 acres of vineyards

since early last year. We now are pleased to

in the southern Chianti region, not far from

present two more offerings from the Ricasoli

Siena. After centuries of defending the Brolio

portfolio, Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico

Castle and the surrounding lands, the family

and Ricasoli Brolio Classico Riserva. o

in more recent times has dedicated themselves to the development of agriculture and vineyards.

Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico ($24) This modern style Chianti Classico has bright flavors of red fruits, cherry and strawberry with some vanilla and spice notes. 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet/Merlot.

NEW

Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico Riserva ($30) Spicy notes of wild berries, cherry, licorice and vanilla. This wine is the same basic blend as the non-Riserva but with more complexity in the nose and a longer finish.

Rocca Guicciarda Chianti Classico Riserva ($24) This is the most traditional of the three wines with 90% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo and 5% Merlot making up the blend. Intense red fruits and violets on the nose followed by a soft, elegant mouthfeel.

Recent times is a relative term when speaking about Italian history. In 1872, after more than 30 years of research and experimentation, Baron Bettino Ricasoli wrote down the formula for modern day Chianti. He determined that Chianti should be produced from 70% Sangiovese with the addition of 15% Canaiolo (to smooth the tannins) and 15% Malvasia Bianca (to make it fresh and drinkable). The production rules have been modified over the years, however Sangiovese still plays the leading role with a maximum permitted amount of 20% of other red grapes now allowed.

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WINE LIST REDS

RED BLEND

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

1982 Field Blend (p 10)

Aguijón de Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 – Salta (p 13)

Cuvelier Los Andes Colección (p 13)

Domingos Brothers Cabernet Sauvignon (p 10)

PETITE SIRAH

Ferrari-Carano Cabernet Sauvignon (p 14 & 15) Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon (p 10) Paratus Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon (p 6 & 7)

CHIANTI Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico (p 3) Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico Riserva (p 3) Ricasoli Guicciarda (p 3)

MALBEC Antucura Calcura (p 10, p 13) Marchiori y Barraud Malbec (p 13) Viña Alicia Malbec Paso de Piedra (p 13)

MERLOT Ferrari-Carano Merlot (p 14 & 15) Pestoni Rutherford Merlot (p 10)

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Rocca Guicciarda (p 3)

Pestoni Rutherford Petite Sirah (p 10)

ZINFANDEL Whiplash Zinfandel (p 16)

WHITES ALBARIÑO Castro Martini A20 Albariño (p 12) Coral do Mar Albariño (p 12)

CHARDONNAY Ferrari-Carano Chardonnay (p 14 & 15)

FUMÉ BLANC Ferrari-Carano Fumé Blanc (p 14 & 15)

RIESLING Arctic Fox (p 8 & 9) Fox Run Semi Dry Riesling (8 & 9)

SAUVIGNON BLANC Pestoni Rutherford Sauvignon Blanc (p 10)

Enjoying the Overall Adventure– Exploring Wine’s Lesser-Known Varieties

BILL STOBBS • @ABCWINEBILLS • WSTOBBS@ABCFWS.COM

Do you ever wonder which grape varieties are

to understand as until very recently Spain had

The fact that grapes can be indigenous to a

the most planted on the entire planet? A recent

more land under vine than any other. But

certain region and have a long history there,

study at the University of Adelaide reveals how

Rkatsiteli? Sultaniye?

and that they can be assimilated into the region’s

our tastes in wine have changed over the past 25 years, and the reasons for the change are significant. Let’s begin by looking at the top 10 most planted wine grapes back in 1990: 1. Airén 2. Grenache Rouge (aka Garnacha) 3. Rkatsiteli 4. Sultaniye 5. Trebbiano (aka Ugni Blanc)

6. Mazuelo (aka Carignan) 7. Merlot 8. Cabernet Sauvignon 9. Monastrell (aka Mourvèdre or Mataro) 10. Bobal

Now let’s look at the most planted wine grapes of today:

cuisine and culture, turns the sipping of wine into an adventure and an exploration. One of the bugbears about traveling through our domestic

1. Cabernet Sauvignon 2. Merlot 3. Airén 4. Tempranillo 5. Chardonnay 6. Syrah/Shiraz 7. Grenache Rouge 8. Sauvignon Blanc 9. Trebbiano 10. Pinot Noir

wine regions – as great as the wine and the people can be – is that pretty much the same grapes are grown everywhere. In comparison try traveling around France, say, or Italy, or Spain. Every couple of hundred miles you will come across a region that produces its own individual wines from its own unique grape varieties. Its cuisine is different.

Its architecture is different. Its culture is different.

This kind of experience can be quite exhilarating and can open us up to a greater overall enjoyment and understanding of wine.

What, no Chardonnay? No Pinot Noir?

There are thousands of different grapes that are

No Sauvignon Blanc? That five of the top ten

used to make wine. Why do many of us insist

The point of all this is to say – don’t be afraid

positions were taken by Spanish grapes is easy

on sticking to fewer than 10 of them?

to explore. o

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ATA N A S N E C H KO V • @A B C W I N E ATA N A S • ATA N A S N@A B C F W S.C O M

T

here has been a tremendous response from our guests following this summer’s introduction of Paratus Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon in select ABC locations. The article, “Paratus - A Triumphant Trifecta,” which appeared in the November/December issue of the Wine Journal, gave us a first look at the domain and the wine produced there, only to generate even more questions from our readers who tasted the wine. In fact, I have never seen such an enthusiasm and loyalty in such a short time to a new wine, literally unknown until recently to Florida wine aficionados.

Paratus is a rare breed, pinnacle territory where select few have a foothold, a true terroir driven wine from Napa Valley.

Paratus wine is produced from a dry-farmed, 12-acre single vineyard of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes planted on a steep slope (over 35˚ incline) on top of Mount Veeder. The county of Napa no longer allows planting on slopes that are inclined over 30 degrees; however, this vineyard was fortunately grandfathered-in. The vineyard is surrounded by towering redwoods but there are none on the actual vineyard site, probably due to an ancient landslide.

Dry farming (the norm in France) is an extremely rare practice in California that produces small, dark berries of great intensity. At Paratus the vine roots have reached an average depth of 30 feet and are benefiting from the same pure water as the surrounding redwood forest. Paratus is the symbiosis between the redwood trees and the vines, resulting in the most amazing terroir. Paratus is a rare gem and a true Grand Cru! I wanted to learn more about Paratus and why magic happens there more than anywhere else (at least to my knowledge) in Napa. In an effort to answer my questions and those of our guests, I reached out to Robert Jennings, vintner/ owner of the domain and Massimo Monticelli, winemaker at Paratus.

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Why did you select this site and what made you fall in love with it?

Robert Jennings: It truly was love at first sight.

Driving up this long winding road through a redwood forest got my heart beating and my eyes widening. Could this ranch have such an abundance of these giant trees? Then we broke into the sunshine to reveal a beautiful old orchard of pears, apples and plums with a smattering of more exotic fruits such as persimmon, fig and quince. Finally, our eyes shifted upward to a majestic, steep and undulating slope bathed in sunshine and striped with terraces of healthy vines. That was 17 years ago – we were sold!

What makes dry-farming possible on the western slopes of Napa Valley and not in the east side of the valley?

Robert: It may not be impossible on the east side of the valley but it is certainly far more challenging. Weather patterns generally come from the west, the Pacific coast, and get snagged on the Mayacamas Range, of which Mt. Veeder is a part, and dumps a fair amount of rain before petering out by the time it meets the east side. Even during drought years we get more rain than most parts of Napa and, although much of that moisture runs down the steep slopes and into the rivers and bays, some of that water is captured in underground aquifers and natural cachements preserved for use by the probing roots of our vineyard.

What is the impact of the redwood forest on the vineyard?

Robert: The redwoods do not impart a particular flavor to the grapes like a Eucalyptus forest might impose with its menthol flavor.

But they do contribute to the soil with their

annual shedding of needles that create a duff of natural compost that contributes to the vitality of the vines. Another advantage of the forest that surrounds our vineyard is the natural balance it provides to our environment. With these massive buffer zones, we do not worry about diseases, insects or manmade chemicals drifting over from a neighbor as might happen in the checkerboard vineyards of the valley floor. It also provides a healthy habitat for wildlife that keeps things in balance: Smaller birds who might want to feast on our ripening grapes are kept in check by larger raptors, small animals like opossums, raccoons and turkeys are checked by larger predators like cougars, bobcats and coyotes, and destructive insects have a tough time running the gauntlet of natural barriers and predators to take hold here.

Does the Pacific fog have an impact on the terroir?

Robert: The fog can slow down the ripening process which can allow for more complex development of flavors but it can also prevent the grapes from being ready when the late autumn storms roll in. Luckily, we are generally above the fog line during the crucial ripening periods and so, while dense fog settles in the valley, we are in full sunshine allowing the grapes to reach maturation – “ready,” as our name implies, to create our special wines.

Could you share some of the vineyard practices, what do you do to minimize treatment?

Robert: We have made a commitment to sustainable stewardship of the land. We use no chemical insecticides and use organic compounds to keep mildew in check. We have developed a healthy cover crop to hold soils in place during the powerful rains of winter. And we use hand labor, which is less destructive to the land than heavy equipment, for most vineyard activities. Finally, our practice of dry-farming helps drive our vine roots deeper, further protecting the hillside while enhancing the quality and complexity of our wines. It also allows the vineyard to flow along nature’s ebbs and flows thus fully embracing our unique terroir.

There is an old saying, “The man makes the difference.” Massimo, how do you stay true to the terroir and best express it in the wine?

Massimo: We farm to maximize the minerality... not letting it over-crop and picking at complete ripeness. In winemaking we don’t over-oak or over-process the wine so that the minerality is what shines in the finished product and balances the deep mountain fruit flavors.

Why did you choose the name Paratus?

Is there a personal or historical significance to the name?

Robert: Paratus is the Latin word for “prepared” or “ready.” We feel it applies to our wines as we are so careful to prepare the soil, the grapes and ultimately the wines for enjoyment. Our priority is to find the perfect moment in the grapes’ maturity to harvest, only when they are truly ready. We also made the decision years ago to age our Cabernets longer than most California winemakers to better ensure the wine is ready before releasing. We age for nearly two years in new French oak and then another two years in bottle so our wines, even though they will still have a dozen or more years of cellaring potential, make our customers happy! The origin of the name comes from my maternal heritage which goes back to 14th century Scotland and the Johnstone clan—my full name is Robert Johnston Jennings. The clan’s crest has a winged spur, which indicates readiness, surrounded by the clan motto “Nunquam Non Paratus” which translates to “Never Unprepared.” My own grandfather and great grandfather used the same crest, which we feature on our wine label, on their packages of chocolates, cookies and candies for The Johnston Company. I grew up hearing the lore of the clan and the meanings of the motto and decided, with my wife Christina who designed our label, to name our wine Paratus because of its relation to our winemaking and as a tip of the hat to my forebearers. o

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Dan Mitchell of Fox Run Vineyards DANIEL EDDY • @ABCWINEDANE • DANE@ABCFWS.COM

A

short time ago, Meghan Guarino and

I sat down with Dan Mitchell from Fox Run Vineyards and had a conversation. Dan was born and raised in upstate New York and has been with Fox Run for the last 12 years.

He started as the tasting room manager and is now head of sales. His interest in wine comes naturally as his father was an at-home winemaker, and as Dan said, “My father had his winemaking equipment before he had me.” Dan was a vagabond in his youth and worked in the beverage industry out west before returning home to New York, where he is sharing his love of wine and educating people about his favorite winemaking region. We brought in two of their wines last year, the Arctic Fox ($12), a fruity white wine made of the Cayuga grape, and the Fox Run Semi-Dry Riesling ($16).

“Riesling is still the most underappreciated

is basically the unofficial ambassador of all things Finger Lakes.

Meghan asked him if he finds himself to be a geology teacher as much as a wine expert, and education was a consistent theme in our dialogue. “The further I go away from home, the more visuals I need to bring,” he said and continued to describe the area: “Eleven glacially carved lakes make up the Finger Lakes and Lake Seneca is the largest at 650 feet deep at its deepest point. There is more water in Seneca Lake than the other lakes combined.” There is also a lot of complexity in this glacially formed soil. “We have a ton of fossilized coral in our vineyard,” Dan explained. “We have slate, silt, clay, sand and more soil diversity in our farm than some entire wine regions. Geographically it’s a very unique area.”

Run is that the owners live in the center of the vineyard. The owner, Scott Osborne, is an old hippy, really, and that makes this an important issue.” He went on to differentiate

But that isn’t the only thing that makes

between sustainable and organic practices:

New York wines so distinctive. “We are a

“Based on the size of our winery and the

cool climate wine producing region, but if

costs involved, we’re not interested in being

you look at the latitude of the Finger Lakes,

certified organic.” Sustainability is less regi-

it runs through some of the most famous

mented and he sums it up as “due diligence.”

wine producing regions in Europe,” Dan

He then mentions their solar panels, their

said. “With cool climate comes bright, high

dry-farming techniques, their compostable

acidity, which is a defining character of all

tasting cups and even their Falcon and Kes-

our wines.” High acidity is what makes these

tral Houses that help deter birds from eating

A retired couple started the Fox Run in 1984

wines so food friendly and popular in chef/

the ripening grapes.

and quickly found that owning a winery is

owner restaurants in New York City. “Oak

not actually a retirement job, so they sold

use is never heavy-handed,” he said. “We

it to Scott Osborne and family in 1994. The

want barrel influence in our wines; we want

original plantings focused on some sparkling

the textural advantages in using barrels.

wine varietals, but Riesling is the true star of

We want a rich palate feel, but we don’t

this region and that became their focus. Fox

want barrel flavors in our wines.”

varietal, and major publications have been printing the same article about Riesling every year for the last 20 years,” Dan joked. So to show what makes Riesling from the Finger Lakes so impressive, his purpose is clear: “I’m out on the road. Taking the love to the people. Spreading the Finger Lakes love.”

And that, of course, begins with Fox Run.

Run is a 100-acre farm with 50 acres under vine on Lake Seneca of the Finger Lakes.

Peter Bell is their current winemaker but prefers Dan to do the vast majority of the interviews, so we chatted with Dan, who wine journal | 8

As we closed our chat he quoted owner, Scott Osborne: “I want people drinking my wine” which is why they are willing to make it affordable as well as artisanal. If you can’t visit the Finger Lakes anytime soon, try the Fox Run Semi-Dry Riesling with some

In learning about Fox Run and chatting with

spicy, Cajun seafood or Asian dishes, and

Dan, sustainability came out as an import-

enjoy the colorful, cobalt blue bottled Arctic

ant part of the winery’s operations. Dan

Fox on a hot day by the pool. Both wines are

explained, “The number one reason why

perfect for spring and summer, balancing

sustainability is so important to Fox

sweet fruit with tart, mineral acidity. o

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P E S T O N I DAVE MALONE • @ABCWINEDAVEM • DAVEM@ABCFWS.COM

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ast year, ABC Fine Wine & Spirits celebrated 80 years of being one of America’s largest and oldest family-owned fine wine and spirits retail chains. Since its start as a one-unit location in downtown Orlando, ABC has remained a family operation for multiple generations and has grown to include over 100 locations throughout Florida. With the next generation already actively involved in the company’s day-to-day operations and a corporate culture that treats everyone like family, ABC is poised to remain family-driven for years to come.

It should come as no surprise to anyone that when ABC travels the world looking for new products to bring into our portfolio, our team is naturally drawn to producers that reflect the same family values and dedication to producing a product of exceptional quality and value. Such was the case when one of the members of ABC’s ownership stumbled across a small, family-run winery in Napa Valley after taking a wrong turn.

The rest, as the saying goes, was history.

For five generations, the Pestoni Family has made wine in the Napa Valley and today owns nearly 60 acres split between four of California’s best AVAs: Saint Helena, Rutherford, Howell Mountain and Lake County. The family’s start came in 1892, when Albino Pestoni, a Swiss-Italian immigrant, planted his first vineyards and built a winery in Bell Canyon near Saint Helena. Today,

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Bob and Sylvia Pestoni carry on the family’s heritage with a winery in Rutherford they purchased in the mid-1990s that sits adjacent to their Pestoni Ranch vineyard. It was their dedication to maintaining the family’s heritage and focus on producing the highest quality wine possible utilizing sustainable practices that sold ABC on the Pestoni Family.

ABC currently carries six wines from their portfolio. Three of these, all red, come from the famed Howell Mountain AVA in Napa Valley.

This appellation is known for producing wines with bold flavor profiles and great structure for long-term aging, and the Pestoni wines are no exception. Their Howell Mountain Merlot ($60) and Cabernet Sauvignon ($60) are both outstanding and worth trying for your next special occasion. Looking for a wine to impress even the pickiest of wine aficionados? Then consider their Domingos Brothers Howell Mountain Red ($140). Only 40 cases were produced of this bold, flavorful red that was aged for over two years in 100% new French oak barrels. ABC gets a miniscule amount of this wine. It is only available in select stores, so please visit your local wine and spirits consultant who can help you track a bottle down.

In addition to their reds from Howell Mountain, the Pestoni family also produces two outstanding wines from estate vineyards in the Rutherford

and Saint Helena AVAs located on the Napa Valley floor. Their Sauvignon Blanc ($18) from their Pestoni Ranch is a fine example of this varietal, aged seven months in stainless steel and showcasing flavors of stone fruits and melons.

Regular lees stirring during the aging process adds further depth and complexity. If you’re a fan of shellfish, this is the wine for you. Their Petite Sirah ($35) is from their Spring Creek Vineyard and serves as a fun alternative for fans of Cabernet Sauvignon. With bold flavors of ripe blackberries and sweet vanilla, this dense red has a nice jammy character with a touch of spice. It’s perfect when paired with steak off the grill.

Lastly, there’s the 1892 Field Blend ($24) from the Quackenbush Vineyard in the Lake County AVA. Made in honor of their ancestors, this blend of mostly Zinfandel and Petite Sirah grown at an elevation of 2,000 feet pays homage to the wines first made by Albino Pestoni. It has medium-bodied character with flavors of ripe raspberries, cherries, espresso and a touch of spice make it a fun wine to serve with BBQ. Next time you visit your local ABC, be sure to look for the wines from the Pestoni Family and ask the wine and spirits sales consultant for their recommendations for other delicious family-made wines. Their quality and value are second to none and are certain to make a great addition to your next family gathering. o

French Tour 2016 – Part Deux S H AY N E H E B E R T • @A B C W I N E S H AY N E • S H AY N E H @A B C F W S.C O M

M

y previous Wine Journal article ended right in the middle of detailing the highlights of this past fall’s trip through France. When I left you all last, we had just left the beautiful Château Gigognan in Chateauneuf du Pape and were flying from Marseilles to Bastia, Corsica.

We arrived bright and early in Bastia and were met by Karine, from the co-op that produces, among many other wines, the rosé from Domaine Vetriccie. All that way for one wine?!

Not really, as we were there to find at least one additional rosé, possibly a red and a white if we found the right fit. By lunchtime, we were on an oyster boat on the Étang de Diane (a place where Romans once farmed oysters), heading to an old fishing shack on the shore for lunch and wine.

Imagine that. Fresh oysters, cold beer and some Domaine Vetriccie Rosé held us over until the car tire-sized pan of paella was ready.

We toured the vineyards and winery and, after checking in at the local hotel, headed back to the winery for dinner, which consisted of lobster as big as your forearm and Côte de Boeuf. Way too much food, which seems to be a common denominator on these trips! Dinner was completely delicious, it goes without saying.

Next morning, Eddie and I took a ride on a mechanical harvester as the sun was coming up, and shortly after, we were on the road again, up into the breathtakingly high mountains on the way to Ajaccio. We made a beer pit stop, then drove higher up until we came to Orsatelli Freres on Corte, ‘Fromage Fermier de Brebis,’ a farm specializing in a local AOP cheese. We sampled the cheese both fresh from that morning as well as partially aged. Surrounded by peaks, meadows and sheep, there are no words to describe the natural beauty!

A little Spanish flare in Bordeaux

Church de Carignan

part of France. We arrived at Mérignac Airport near Pessac-Léognan after dark, and even before we unpacked, we were in downtown Bordeaux at, of all places, a tapas restaurant drinking Spanish wines! Do I need to mention there was not much sleep involved this night? The next morning, we toured the Château de Carignan, where we were staying, before a blind tasting of some older vintages. Then on to Arcachon, where we sampled fresh oysters seaside with a few bottles of Château de Carignan blanc. We then climbed the Dune de Pyla in hurricane force winds – this sand dune, the tallest in Europe, is over 350 feet high and over a mile in length! If you happen to find yourself there, remember that a cool bottle of rosé is a fine reward for the effort.

From the sand blaster, we traveled to the Michelin-starred Le Corniche and the O Bar where we enjoyed possibly the finest oysters on the planet, with a Billecart-Salmon Rosé and Drappier Brut Nature. Dinner that evening back at the château, I found myself grilling local lamb from Pauillac with which we finished off the open bottles from the morning’s blind tasting—but not until after the first annual Petanque Cup, a rousing game of bocce that I am ashamed to admit, since I have a petanque court in my own back yard, we lost.

I blame it on the Champagne, jet lag and of course, the competition! o

Dune de Pyla

We completed the drive to Ajaccio just in time for a late lunch and shopping, before the flight to Bordeaux took us away from this spectacular Le Corniche, the O Bar and a little bubbly!

As good as oysters get.

Pauillac lamb over vine cuttings at Church de Carignan

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ALBARIÑO IS HAVING A MOMENT JIM GREELEY • @ABCWINEJIMG • JAMESG@ABCFWS.COM

W

hen it comes to food and wine pairing, it

Condado do Tea, Soutomaior and Ribera de Ulla.

certainly doesn’t hurt to plan for the unexpected.

Since its inception as an official appellation in 1988,

For example, you never know when a succulent

wine production in Rias Baixas has undergone

plate of grilled Gulf shrimp with garlic and pars-

considerable growth and development mostly

ley might pay you and your friends an impromp-

from large, quality-conscious cooperatives.

tu visit. As a rule, I make it a habit to keep several chilly bottles of versatile dry whites in my fridge for such an occasion.

Andrew McCarthy and Angela Martin El Pazo Vineyard

Bodegas Castro Martin represents one of the few wineries in Rias Baixas that is still family owned and operated.

Lately I’ve been stocking more than a few bottles

Regarded as one of the top winemakers in the

On a recent visit, Andrew McCarthy disclosed

region, Angela Martin can trace her family’s

the origin of the “A2O” moniker. As it turns out,

Fans of crisp, unoaked whites in general (i.e. Pinot

wine production history back to 1887. In 1981,

it’s a simple “A” to “O” grammatical play on the

Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc) will find much to

her father Domingo Martin-Morales built the

word “Albariño.”

like in Albariño’s similarly zesty and vibrant style.

present-day Bodegas Castro Martin in the hamlet

The Albariño grape hails from the Denominación

of Puxafeita. Since 1993, Angela has been both

Further to the south in the town of Arbo, Bodega

de Origen (DO) Rias Baixas in the northwest

managing partner and winemaker at the estate.

of Spain. It’s the top variety grown in vineyards

Together with her husband Andrew McCarthy,

planted along this region’s picturesque

the couple oversees 11 hectares of estate vineyards

Atlantic Coast.

divided into four distinct sites (El Pazo, Castrelo,

of food-friendly Albariño in my refrigerator door.

The autonomous community of Galicia is not the

Cunchidos and Caeiro) in the Val do Salnés, the

Veiga da Princesa produces single-estate Albariño’s sourced from 18 hectares of vines planted in the Condado do Tea, the warmest and driest of the Rias Baixas sub-regions. Coral do Mar Albariño ($13) reveals bright green apple, lime blossom and wet stones with a mouthwater-

coolest sub-region in the DO.

ing profile inviting you back for another

chures refer to. The landscape is much more like

Bodegas Castro Martin A2O Albariño ($15) is

tantalizing sip.

Ireland than Andalusia: wet, cool and misty with

produced from estate fruit, sourced from 20 to

emerald-green hills overlooking craggy inlets.

50-year-old vines planted on granite and quartzite

Try this lively white with baked chicken, sea

Average annual rainfall is around 80 inches here,

sub-soils. The wine is fermented in temperature-

comparable to that of Oregon’s Willamette Valley.

controlled stainless tanks with six months of

To compensate for the moist conditions, Albariño

extended sur-lie aging. The finished wine sports

vines are trellised on traditional pergolas which

juicy acidity and ample freshness with notes of

allow the nearby sea breezes to freely circulate

white peach, blanched almond, honeydew and

through the vineyards, promoting phenolic ripe-

quince leading to a fine minerally finish.

arid, sun-drenched part of Spain most travel bro-

ness within the grape clusters.

Pair it with shrimp scampi with plenty of garlic

The Rias Baixas DO covers 2,700 hectares, divid-

or, for a more traditional match, try it with Pulpo

ed into five sub-regions: Val do Salnés, O Rosal,

Gallego (octopus with paprika), a Galician classic.

wine journal | 12

scallops or a tapa of Pimientos de Padrón. o

Galician Coast

Pulpo Gallego

Bodegas Castro Martin

ARGENTINA –

Fine Wines in Difficult Times BRAD LEWIS • CONTRIBUTING WRITER

O

nce known for an abundance of inexpen-

sive and often ordinary wines, Argentina has moved more toward wines of complexity and variety by place. It hasn’t been easy with chang-

Viña Alicia Malbec Paso de Piedra $18 Marchiori y Barraud is located in the Perdriel subzone of Luján de Cuyo. The husband and wife team of Andrea Marchiori and Luis Barraud met while studying viticulture and, after making wines for other famous wineries, began their own. The vines are over 50 years old and the press has been consistently high.

es in politics, currency and weather, however,

stones washed down from the Andes and can

Marchiori y Barraud Malbec $20

In Tunuyán in the Uco Valley, Cuvelier Los Andes is a more recent winery founded by the Cuvelier family, owners of Château Léoville Poyferré in St. Julien, Bordeaux.

The family spared no expense and the reviews have consistently high.

be very dry, necessitating irrigation.

as 10,000 feet. These rocky, very dry vineyards

Maipú is just east of Luján de Cuyo and near

have yielded some of the most highly-rated

the city of Mendoza. It’s one of the top growing

and highly-sought wines of the country. One

areas for Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, a little

distinct factor of Argentine viticulture is that

Pinot Noir and other varieties.

Cuvelier Los Andes Colección $20

Also in the Uco Valley in Vista Flores is Antucura. The 100 hectares are planted in Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot and Pinot Noir. The original vines came from a nursery in Pomerol. Calcura is a Bordeaux blend.

the trend has shifted toward defining areas of unique terroir where wines of distinct attributes can be made. Valley floors were the first to be planted for ease of farming and produced wines that usually ripened well with big sugars and rich color. On the other hand, they retained water in wet years which led to unripe and green wines. Vintners have been planting vines on the slopes of the Andes, some at elevations as high

the vines are planted on their own, native rootstocks. Phyloxera is only beginning to be found in the country; luckily the very dry conditions are not conducive to its spread.

only roughly 20 miles long but varies in terroir throughout the area’s smaller districts of Las Compuertas, Agrelo, Perdriel, Vistalba and Ugarteche. Soils are often deep in alluvial

In the southern end of the Mendoza region lies the Uco Valley. Initially considered an area for volume plantings, it has become the hot spot for terroir-driven wines. Within the Uco Valley

Argentina’s vineyards stretch over 1,000 miles

are several subzones of distinct soil types,

from Salta in the north to Patagonia in the

elevations and temperature swings. Daytime

south. Salta is on a plateau of very dry land

temperatures are usually high with a very high

bathed in sun with cool temperatures. The

and clear sky. Sun protection for workers is

Cafayate Valley is the heart of the region and

essential. At night, the temperature plunges and

has been planted with Malbec, Cabernet Sauvi-

cold breezes settle into the vineyards from the

gnon and Argentina’s most iconic white variety,

mountains. This temperature variation allows

Torrontés. Torrontés produces light wines with

grapes to ripen slowly and retain acidity and

an aroma reminiscent of Gewürztraminer. In

freshness. Yields are normally low with grapes

warmer areas, it often becomes too heavy and lacks in structure, but in Salta Gewürztraminer retains freshness and acidity for balance.

of deep color and floral notes. Recognized subzones within the Uco Valley are from north Consulta, Altamira and San Carlos.

the town of Mendoza in the central part of

Viña Alicia is in the Las Compuertas subzone

greatly in style depending upon the terrain and climate. Near the city of Mendoza, the subzone of Luján de Cuyo is home to many of Argentina’s most recognized wineries. Luján de Cuyo is

Hector and Pablo Durigutti specialize in organic wines from cool climate regions. His Aguijón de Abeja wines are from vastly different parts of the country.

The Malbec is from Patagonia in the very south and the Cabernet Sauvignon hails from Salta in the extreme north. The wines are some of the purest from the country.

to south Tupungato, Tunuyán, Vista Flores, La

The heart of the nation’s vineyards is around the country. Malbec is king there and varies

Antucura Calcura $18

of Luján de Cuyo. Founded in 1926 by Alicia Arizu, the 10-hectare vineyard is planted in Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and small plantings of other varieties. o

Aguijón de Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 – Salta $14 Ruby red color with hints of blue.

Spices and smoky flavors combined with berries.

Structured wine with sweet tannins and soft ending. wine journal | 13

FERRARI-CARANO: WINE BY WOMEN

MEGHAN GUARINO • @ABCWINECOUNTRY • MEGHANG@ABCFWS.COM

I

n recent years, industry professionals and

spectators have been calling for the rise of women winemakers. We know California’s big names—SIMI’s legendary Zelma Long, Geneviève Janssens of Mondavi, and Gina Gallo of the mega-winery E&J Gallo, among others—and we know the gender gap is steadily narrowing. But to find a winery that has been flying under the radar with a team of seven women winemakers is something special.

Ferrari-Carano, a family-owned winery founded in Sonoma in 1981, comprises three separate winemaking facilities: one for white wine, one for red wine and another for Pinot Noir exclusively. Together, the three wineries produce a mélange of remarkable wines,

pairs perfectly with appetizers and shellfish.

The team’s Fumé Blanc ($11) is popular for its crisp acidity and intensity. Refreshing flavors of juicy melon, lemon-lime, ripe peach and green apple are complemented by a slight herbal quality. Enjoy this everyday, 90-point (California Grapevine, 2015 vintage) white wine with pork tenderloin or Chinese take-out.

including their ever-popular Fumé Blanc. Their vineyards span some of California’s best AVAs from Napa to Carneros and many more in between. The entirety of the 1,300 acres of vines is 100% sustainably farmed, and some, especially those close to schools, are farmed organically.

And while the vineyards are managed by a 30year veteran of the Ferrari-Carano plots, Steve Dominichelli, the final product is dictated by

Valley Pinots, our Carneros Chardonnay to

seven women.

taste like Carneros Chardonnay, our hilltop

Led by executive winemaker Sarah Quider, the team are responsible for the incredible selection of wines included in the Ferrari-Carano portfolio. “We are a team that has worked together for 10 plus years,” Quider said. “It’s pretty special and I count my blessings that I work with them very closely.”

The team of winemakers take a gentle approach

Cabernets to taste like the rich, unctuous Cabernets that come from our sites. I’m hoping that when people taste our wines, they get a sense of the site and the place as well as the vintage and Mother Nature—I hope they get that it’s a true expression of the vineyards that Ferrari-Carano owns.”

And this team nails that.

The team’s red wines are just as delicious. Try their Merlot ($20) for a burst of blackberry cobbler, cherry and vanilla on a velvety palate that ends in cinnamon and spice. Smooth tannins and a full body make this a stunning red to sip alongside Italian dishes and roasted chicken. Equally as impressive is their Cabernet Sauvignon ($30), which earned 90 points from the Wine Enthusiast for the 2013 vintage.

With firm structure and elegant tannins, this bold red shows dark berry flavors layered with earth, cedar and mocha. Enjoy this Cab with strong cheeses and lamb for an unparalleled pairing.

to winemaking. “I take pride in the wines that

Their 2013 Reserve Chardonnay ($26), for

we make,” Quider explained. “I don’t want to be

example, earned 91 points from The Wine

too heavy-handed with the winemaking. I want

Advocate for its tropical fruit and oak notes,

our Russian River to express Russian River, our

full-bodied flavors and creamy mouthfeel. This

Find these and other Ferrari-Carano wines

Alexander Valley Pinots to taste like Alexander

elegant Chardonnay is aged in French oak and

at an ABC Fine Wine & Spirits near you. o

wine journal | 14

wine journal | 15

8989 South Orange Ave. Orlando, Florida 32824

W INE

TO

WATCH:

Whiplash Zinfandel AROMA :

RIPE BING CHERRIES, RASPBERRY JAM, BOYSENBERRY AND CARDAMOM FL AVO R :

Juicy raspberry and blackberry BO DY:

Medium

wine journal | 16

CO L O R:

DARK AND BROODING

FI N I S H:

Delightful and rich RE GI O N :

Lodi, California PA I R

WI TH: