Wine Journal September/October 2016

wine journal Sept emb er/O ctob er 2016

ABC F I N E W I N E & SPI R ITS W I N E MAGA ZI N E

The Unforeseen Quality of Box Wines

The Boedeckers Flex their Viticulture Muscles A MONTH IN CALIFORNIA

The ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Wine Journal is a bimonthly publication of ABC Fine Wine & Spirits. Copyright 2016 ABC Liquors, Inc. All rights reserved.

Not all products are available in all stores. If the product you’re looking for isn’t available, ask us to order it for you!

Prices in this publication have been rounded to the nearest dollar, including those ending in 8.

Allie Smallwood Editor allies@abcfws.com

“Variety is the very spice of life, that gives it all its flavor.”

- William Cowper, The Task Bulliat Beaujolais 3 Domaine 10 Villages is one of the highest

5

Meghan Guarino Contributing Editor meghang@abcfws.com

quality wines from the region.

The classic elements of Sauvignon Blanc in four different expressions.

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Athena Pappas and Stewart Boedecker are a solid team with a soft heart for complex wines.

The Chilean wine that others try to emulate.

OUR WINE EXPERTS: Jim Greeley Southwest Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Shayne Hebert Central Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Atanas Nechkov Central Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Paul Quaglini Southeast Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Bill Stobbs West Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Dan Eddy Northeast Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Dave Malone Northwest Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Brad Lewis Contributing Writer If you would like to ensure you’re receiving the Wine Journal each time it’s published, send an email to Jennifer Baker (JenniferB@abcfws.com) and we’ll add you to the “always mail” list.

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abcfws.com wine journal | A

With so much more to explore in Piedmont, Paul takes us through Barolo, Barbaresco and Dogliani.

Drink outside the box with these surprisingly fine boxed wines.

These varying Spanish varietals are guaranteed to break your go-to wine mold.

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Something about these West Coast wines makes us want to keep our head in the clouds.

Ripe with tropical notes of coconut and melon, this Lake County Chardonnay exhibits a strong sense of place.

Domaine Bulliat ATA N A S N E C H KO V • @A B C W I N E ATA N A S • ATA N A S N@A B C F W S.C O M

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the vine rows to avoid the use of herbicides and

and Crus Beaujolais at last year’s VineExpo in

naturally limit yields as well as to prevent ero-

Bordeaux, I knew they were special and some

sion, and grape picking is always done by hand.

When I first tasted Beaujolais Villages

of the highest quality wines from the region.

A visit to the winery last March confirmed the initial finding and more—it raised Domaine Bulliat to the very top of the quality pyramid of the region.

Loïc is also experimenting for the first time this year with a couple of amphoras (a jar with a large oval body, narrow neck and two handles), making wine like it was done thousands of years ago in ancient Greece

It all started in 1978 when Noël Bulliat bought

and Rome. Amphoras are still in current use

four hectares of Beaujolais Villages after

in some eastern countries, like Georgia and

graduating from viticulture school. Today,

Armenia, where the practice has persisted as

the estate covers 27 hectares in eight differ-

tradition. The taste of amphora wine is pure

ent appellations in the Beaujolais region and

but intense; the wine needs to age and rest for

produces around 70,000 bottles of wine per

an extended time before bottling.

year. Noël is still actively involved in the family estate, though much of the success is attributed to his young and very talented son, Loïc.

Loïc was only 26 years old when he was first elected president of the Association of The Producers of Beaujolais—a huge recognition!—by fellow winemakers for his talent, innovation, quality and drive. He works organically in all of his vineyards. The transition to organic practices began in 2010 and the domain was officially certified organic in 2013. At Domaine Bulliat, organic practice is a desire to work in harmony alongside nature and its rhythms/patterns, to listen more

Currently available at select ABC Fine Wine & Spirits are the Beaujolais Villages ($11) and the 2014 Morgon ($17).

Domaine Bulliat Beaujolais Villages 2014 is 100% Gamay from 40-year-old vines, exhibiting bright ruby-red color and aromas and flavors of red fruits dominated by black cherry, strawberry and currant, perfectly balanced by fine tannins and nice acidity that adds freshness. This is Beaujolais Villages at its finest! Enjoy with light appetizers, cold cuts, charcuterie, grilled meats, vegetables and aged cheeses.

closely to it, and to understand and sublimate

The 2014 Morgon Cuvée du Colombier,

it… that obviously excludes all use of

100% Gamay from 50-year-old vines, re-

chemicals for treatment. Nature’s balance

ceived 91 points from The Wine Enthusiast:

is disturbed by the use of herbicides and

“Named after the street where the winery

pesticides; the soil becomes sterile.

stands, this is jammy and ripe while also

Only natural, biodynamic treatments are used in the vineyards; grass is left growing between

structured with some firm tannins. Rich and juicy red berry fruits have both crisp

Noel and Loic Bulliat on pruning day

acidity and a dense texture.” o wine journal | 3

WINE LIST WHITES ALBARIÑO

BOBAL Bobal Desanjuan Viñas Viejas (p 9)

CHARDONNAY

CABERNET SAUVIGNON Casillero del Diablo Cabernet

Coral do Mar Albariño (p 9) Black Box Chardonnay (p 8) Purity Chardonnay (p 10) Shannon Ridge Reserve Chardonnay (p 16)

PINOT BLANC

Pappas Wine Co. Pinot Blanc (p 10)

PINOT GRIS

Pappas Wine Co. Pinot Gris (p 10)

SANCERRE

Domaine Serge Laloue Sancerre 2015 (p 5) Domaine Serge Laloue Sancerre Silex 2015 (p 5) Domaine Serge Laloue Sancerre Le Cul de Beaujeu 2015 (p 5) Jonathan Didier Pabiot Pouilly-Fumé 2013 (p 5)

VERDEJO

Cuatro Rayas Verdejo Vinedos Centenarios (p 9)

REDS BAROLO

Cabutto Barolo La Volta Riserva (p 6) Cabutto Barolo Riserva (p 6)

BARBERA Cabutto Barbera (p 6) BLEND Bota Box Redvolution Red Blend (p 8) Navigator Red Blend (p 14)

wine journal | 4

Sauvignon (p 12) Octopoda Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville (p 14) Owner’s Box Cabernet (p 8)

GAMAY 2014 Morgon Cuvée du Colombier (p 3) Domaine Bulliat Beaujolais Villages (p 3)

GARNACHA Teorema Garnacha (p 9) MALBEC Casillero del Diablo Malbec (p 12) MERLOT Casillero del Diablo Merlot (p 12) NUBIOLA Pelissero Barbaresco Nubiola (p 6) DOLCETTO Chionetti San Luigi Dolcetto Dogliani (p 6)

PINOT NOIR Athena Pinot Noir (p 10)

Stewart Pinot Noir (p 10)

When Sauvignon Blanc is Done Well BRAD LEWIS • CONTRIBUTING WRITER

Sauvignon Blanc is one of the world’s classic

own several plots (as do most producers) to avoid

Domaine Serge Laloue Sancerre Le Cul de

grape varieties. It has been transplanted to most

total hail damage and to give some complexity

Beaujeu ($29)

of the wine-producing countries of the world

from different soil types. I visited them in the

and shows its diversity by the terroir in which it’s

summer of 2013 before Vinexpo and toured their

planted, the harvest time and the way it’s handled in

vineyards. The difference between their vineyards

the cellar. The variety can run the gamut from pear

and those of some of their neighbors was striking.

I met the father and son team of Didier and

and melon to grassy to very crisp and mineral.

The Laloues are into organic farming with green

Jonathan Pabiot in 2006. To say that Jonathan is

grass between the rows that is tilled into the soil

into organic agriculture is like saying Babe Ruth

adding natural richness and keeping the soil alive.

hit a few home runs. Vineyard plots are often

One of their plots is on the Monts Damnés, the

contiguous with the neighbors’ vineyards and

Damned Mountains. The slope in this vineyard

you can really see the difference between those

is about 70% and I thought I knew why the locals

farmed organically and those on which shortcuts

named it that but asked anyway—it’s because

have been taken. In Pabiot’s vineyards the soil had

of the difficulty of working this vineyard, as

been turned, there were signs of green life and the

suspected. Another vineyard is only 2.5 hectares

plants looked healthy. In the neighbor’s rows the

on the flint soil of a hill, the source of the Cuvée

soil was hard-packed and the vegetation between

Silex. The vines average 40 years of age there. The

the rows was brown and dead. Jonathan told us

entry level cuvée comes from only 11.5 hectares

that many growers use Roundup to kill the grass

of vines. This is a small, quality-oriented producer.

and weeds which soaks into the soil to the vine

In France’s Loire Valley, Sauvignon Blanc reigns supreme in the eastern towns of Sancerre and Pouilly-sur-Loire. The soil is largely calcareous limestone from a former seabed but there are also plots of clay and gravel and hillsides of flint, silex in French. My first sip of these wines in the ‘70s started a love affair. The wines have always been considered the perfect matches to shellfish and grilled fish, staples in abundance in Florida.

Producers vary in their styles of wine and focus in the vineyards. I wanted to find growers with dedication to producing crisp wines from clean, unpolluted vineyards. The search took time but was worth the effort.

Domaine Serge Laloue Sancerre ($18) This is essential Sancerre with notes of citrus

I met Christine Laloue of Domaine Serge Laloue

and white flowers carried on a crispy framework.

at Vinexpo in 2011 after a day-long search for

It’s the perfect shellfish match.

a good Sancerre producer. After tasting a lot of wines, this estate stuck out. Christine does most of

Domaine Serge Laloue Sancerre Silex ($22)

the administrative work and her brother, Franck,

The minerality stands out in the middle backed

works the vineyards and makes the wines. They

by bright acidity.

Christine and Franck Laloue

This wine shows the distinct terroir in its round and floral style with the typical acidity of Sancerre.

roots. The proof was in the bottle as I tasted the new vintages. The wines are clean and crisp with loads of minerality.

Jonathan Didier Pabiot Pouilly-Fumé ($19) The wine shows green apple, lime and floral notes on a framework of firm minerality and acidity. o

EXPLORING PIEDMONT, PART II PAUL QUAGLINI • @ABCWINEPAULQ • PAULQ@ABCFWS.COM

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tacular newly built winery. As was the

siblings, Dogliani has a fascinating

ty to spend four memorable days ex-

case with Tenuta La Volta, Azienda

and ancient story to tell. Grapes have

ploring the Piedmont countryside. In

Agricola Pelissero sits high upon a hill

been grown here since before the

our previous edition of Wine Journal

with sweeping views of the Barbares-

Romans but it was in 1593 that the

I began my narrative of this captivat-

co region. Giorgio greeted me at the

Dolcetto grape was first mentioned

ing region with stopovers in Asti and

entrance of his estate and then for

for producing superior wines in the

Roero. My journey proceeded on with

more than an hour gave me a lesson

Dogliani region. In 1912 a gentleman

visits to Barolo, Barbaresco and finally

on the landscape of Barbaresco. From

called Giuseppe Chionetti realized the

Dogliani. I returned home more fasci-

this location Giorgio pointed out the

potential of this area and started his

nated than ever with a region so full of

three villages (Neive, Tresio and the

family winery. For more than 50 years

rich traditions, natural beauty, history,

village of Barbaresco itself) just below

the winery has been run by Giuseppe’s

culture and of course, splendid wines.

us that make up the region. He pointed

grandson Quinto. A legendary figure

out the differences in exposure and

in the region, Quinto Chionetti is now

soil type where Nebbiolo grows best as

90 years young and still works in the

opposed to where Barbera or Dolcet-

winery every day.

his past spring I had the opportuni-

A light snowfall had blanketed the vineyards the night before which made my drive up the mountain to Tenuta La Volta all the more striking. The Tenuta La Volta winery is located at one of the highest points in Barolo right next to the historic Castello Della

was that I didn’t record his eloquent description of what makes Barbaresco one of the world’s greatest wines.

Quinto’s grandson Nicola, who is taking over as the fifth generation at the Chionetti winery, welcomed me upon my arrival. Nicola was beaming with

Volta. The vantage point was breath-

After finally showing me the state-

pride and enthusiasm as he told me the

taking. I was immediately greeted by

of-the-art facility and then tasting

story of Dogliani and his family ties to

one of the owners, Bruno Cabbutto.

through his extensive portfolio of

the region: “Dolcetto grown in Dogli-

Bruno proudly gave me a brief history

wines, we set off to explore the family

ani can produce wonderfully complex,

of the estate starting in 1920 when

vineyards and the surrounding area.

food-friendly wines at a fraction of the

his great grandfather purchased the

Over lunch at the Michelin-starred La

cost of our more famous neighbors.”

winery and the surrounding vineyards.

Ciau Del Tornavento restaurant, we

Chionetti San Luigi Dolcetto Dogliani

Today Bruno and his brother Osvaldo

enjoyed the three crus of Pelissero Bar-

($22) is one of my favorite everyday

produce traditionally styled wines

baresco. These wonderfully complex

Italian reds.

from nearly 18 hectares of vines. You

wines were from the three vineyards

can find three of the Cabbutto wines in

we had just walked through. Giorgio

our stores; Cabutto Barolo La Volta,

was incredibly generous with his time

Cabutto Barolo Riserva, and

and gave me a priceless education on

Cabutto Barbera.

his homeland. Look for the Pelissero

Less than 10 miles to the north my next rendezvous was with Giorgio

wine journal | 66

to might be planted. My only regret

Barbaresco Nubiola in 1.5L ($95) in our stores.

Piedmont is a region of astonishing natural beauty, great food and wine, and very proud people who love to share the authenticity of their homeland. I am grateful to all the winemakers who welcomed me with typical Italian hospitality and then some. I’d

Pelissero at his winery in Barbaresco.

On my final day in Piedmont I headed

also like to thank my GPS because

Giorgio is not only a talented wine-

a few miles south to Dogliani. Dogliani

without it I might still be lost in

maker but also one of those unique,

is a beautiful, historic town and wine

amongst the innumerable hills, castles,

gregarious personalities you meet

growing region just south of Barolo

villages and vines of Piedmont… on

all so often in the wine world. I had

and Barbaresco. While not nearly

second thought, forget that. Thank

arranged to meet Giorgio at his spec-

as well-known as it’s more famous

you to my GPS. o

Castello Della Volta - historic castle right next to Cabutto winery

Nicola and Quinto Chionetti

Giorgio Pelissero’s winery

The gregarious Giorgio Pelissero

wine journal | 7

Drink Outside the Box DAVE MALONE • @ABCWINEDAVEM • DAVEM@ABCFWS.COM

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he wine market has seen a boom in recent

These brands include the previously mentioned

years in alternative packaging. From Beaujolais

Black Box, along with others, such as Bota Box,

Nouveau in plastic bottles, to wine in a can, to

Loft, Vin Vault, Naked Grape and Owner’s Box.

glasses of wine with tear-off tops, companies have pushed the envelope on developing packaging that is both convenient and eye-catching for consumers. Even in restaurants alternative packaging has become increasingly popular with wines poured directly from a cask

ready to give up their favorites for wines in a box (and they shouldn’t), but there are many circumstances where box wine can be advantageous and appropriate.

designed to keep the wine fresh and free from

First, box wines are eco-friendly. The pack-

oxidation. No alternative packaging, however,

aging is easily recyclable and leaves a smaller

has been more popular than the beloved box

carbon footprint. Producers, such as Bota Box,

wine, also known as bag-in-the-box or cask

have embraced this and conveyed it through

wine. Gone are the days of reserving this pack-

their packaging, appealing to a growing num-

aging for cheap, barely drinkable wines. Many

ber of consumers who wish to be more envi-

quality producers are utilizing this packaging

ronmentally conscious in their consumption.

option, and for solid, everyday drinking wine, box wines are worth consideration.

Second, box wines are designed in such a way that when a glass of wine is dispensed, the bag

First, a little history. The concept of the box

inside collapses on itself preventing the wine

wine was first developed in 1935 by Austra-

from oxidizing. This offers an economic alter-

lian winemaker Thomas Angove. His system

native to consumers wishing to have a solid,

utilized 1-gallon bladders placed in corrugated

everyday wine that they can enjoy without the

boxes. Consumers would cut the corner of the

worry of the remaining contents going bad in

bag to serve the wine and reseal with a special

a few days.

peg. In 1967, an Australian inventor worked with Penfolds winery to develop a system that used an air-tight tap to make serving the wine more convenient. To this day, nearly all box wines use some sort of tap system to dispense the wine from a bag kept secure by the box.

Lastly, box wines are easily portable. Going on a rafting trip and prefer wine? Camping with your wine-drinking buddies? Want to take some wine to the tailgate? Need to serve several glasses at an event where glass isn’t allowed or feasible? Box wine will fit the bill, providing an

For years, box wines in the United States were

easy-drinking wine without the excess packag-

seen as inferior in quality. In 2003, this all

ing from traditional bottles.

changed when a Central Coast-based producer called Black Box packaged a premium Chardonnay and took the market by storm. The Black Box brand grew quickly, adding varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Riesling to the mix.

Today there are numerous options available on the shelves at ABC for quality boxed wines. wine journal | 8

Many wine drinkers, myself included, aren’t

Next time you are looking for a budget-friendly everyday wine, consider trying one of the many box wines available at ABC. I suggest the Black Box Chardonnay ($18), Bota Box Redvolution Red Blend ($17) or Owner’s Box Cabernet ($19). Cheers! o

La Variedad es la Sal de la Vida JIM GREELEY • @ABCWINEJIMG • JAMESG@ABCFWS.COM

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profile, with hints of lavender, rosemary and

by the warming Mediterranean influence of the

writers of our time, throughout literary history

anise. As the name suggests, producer Agricola

Costa Blanca. Produced from Bobal grown on

allusions to the subject of wine have graced the

Castellana makes this stunning Verdejo wine

chalky sub-soils, Bobal Desanjuan Viñas Viejas

printed page. Of course, Cowper’s idiom is not

with fruit sourced from old-vine parcels surpass-

($10) displays elegant cherry and strawberry fruit

a reference to wine per se but rather part of a

ing 100 years in age. Try it with a simple plate

with hints of violet, licorice and pepper to pair

treatise on diverse themes including faith, nature,

of Pimientos de Padrón fried in olive oil and

nicely with the local meat paella that Valencia is

the politics of the age and retired life. And while

sprinkled with a little coarse sea salt.

famous for.

Further northwest along the craggy Galician

The grape Garnacha Tinta is known outside of

coast lays another white wine region, Rias Baixas.

Spain under its French name, Grenache Noir.

The local Albariño grape excels here, planted on

The origins of Garnacha Tinta harken back to the

rom the epics of ancient Greece to the great

it may not mirror the author’s original intent, I believe our modern interpretation of “variety is the spice of life” runs the gamut of life’s happiest pursuits, including the enjoyment of wine.

granitic soils and trellised in traditional pergolas

Crown of Aragon and the dawn of the Middle

Contained within España’s vast vineyards is a

to promote phenolic ripeness. This method helps

Ages in what is presently the province of Zarago-

dizzying array of indigenous wine grapes, pur-

to mitigate Rias Baixas’ significant rainfall, al-

za in the north of Spain. The wine region of Cala-

portedly somewhere in the neighborhood of 600

lowing the Atlantic sea breezes to freely circulate

tayud is a reference point for old-vine Garnacha

distinct varietals. Variety indeed!

though the vineyards and maintain healthy fruit.

Tinta grown at elevation on friable slate and

Single vineyard and estate-bottled, Coral do Mar

quartzite sub-soils. The top wine cooperative in

Albariño ($13) sports green apple, citrus and

Calatayud, Bodegas y Viñedos del Jalón routinely

floral aromas with crisp, vibrant acidity inviting

excels with its many Garnacha offerings. Teorema

you back for another mouthwatering sip. This is a

Garnacha ($10) is a generous, deep red with

must for fresh seafood or goat cheese.

smoky Asian spices, wild thyme, black plums

Let’s start our journey with Verdejo, the white grape of Rueda. The Rueda appellation is located in the western province of Valladolid along the banks of the Douro River. It’s primarily a white wine region with Verdejo far and away the all-star here. Cuatro Rayas Verdejo Vinedos Centenarios

The native red variety Bobal is topmost among

($11) reveals a juicy quince and nectarine-skin

plantings in Utiel-Requena, a region specializing in both reds and rosés. The area is part of the

and a long mineral finish. For a real treat, pair it with thin slices of Spain’s singular dry-cured ham, Jamón Ibérico de Bellota.

high plateau of Valencia and is characterized

wine journal | 9

THE BOEDECKER POWERHOUSE DANIEL EDDY • @ABCWINEDANE • DANE@ABCFWS.COM

I

Stewart said. It was a hot vintage at first, run-

with visiting winemakers, and when Athena

ning far ahead in its ripening than a typical

Pappas and Stewart Boedecker came to Flor-

year, but then the monsoon hit and they had

ida for the TPC Golf Event Wine Tasting at

10 inches of rain in two days. This forced

final selection is made when the wine is aging

our Ponte Vedra store, I got the chance to talk

Stewart and Athena to push back harvest

in barrels. As they sample they mark which

about our mutual love of wine and all things

for about 10 days while they waited for the

barrels truly embody each of their wines’

Oregon. As winemakers and winery owners

vineyards to dry out and for the concentra-

styles. “I love this one,” they might say, “but it

their job is not over when the grapes are

tion to return. That time patience paid off

really has to be for your blend, not mine.”

crushed, fermented and the juice is aging in

for the winemakers who were willing to wait.

barrels. They also spearhead their marketing

Those producers who did not wait suffered

After the success of the Boedecker line they

campaign, which was part of their reason to

from all that extra moisture. As in all great

visit sunny Florida. Not only did they sample

winemaking areas of the world, the mantra

and sign bottles at TPC, but they visited

“Buy the winery, not the vintage” held true

most of our stores between Jacksonville and

for the Boedecker wines.

t’s always a treat to spend a couple of days

Orlando, sampled and signed at one of our

decided to expand into the Pappas Wine Co. line, which was always intended as a softer, younger Pinot Noir, released a couple of vintages ahead of the Boedecker Pinot Noirs. Pappas is also where they make their

The grapes for the Boedecker Athena and

excellent Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc wines,

the Stewart Pinot Noirs are sourced from

classic Oregon whites perfect for our Florida

neighboring vineyards in the northern half

weather. The Gris has more floral notes and

of the Willamette Valley, stretching across

a hint more fruit on the palate, though it isn’t

multiple AVAs. The core sites for the Athena

technically sweet. It pairs perfectly with spicy

Pinot Noir are in the McMinnville and Yam-

Asian dishes and Florida seafood. The Pinot

Stewart started working with winemaker Eric

hill-Carlton AVAs where sedimentary soils

Blanc is a little fatter on the palate moving

Hamacher back in 1996, a boutique wine-

dominate and daytime temperatures run a

a step towards Chardonnay, but is still light

maker in Oregon who created the Carlton

little warmer with more extreme temperature

and elegant and perfect to pair with subtler

Winemaker’s Studio, a co-op-style facility

shifts from day to night, bringing darker fruit

seafood fare like scallops and lobster. At Boe-

where smaller winemakers could make their

with Bing cherry and plum flavors, a broader

decker they also make their Purity Chardon-

wine without having to purchase all the

mouthfeel and some spice notes. Core

nay, which is a light oak Chardonnay (using

machinery. Stewart used a 2-week vacation to

vineyards for the Stewart Pinot Noir lie on

only neutral oak barrels) with plenty of zesty,

apprentice with Eric and was soon hooked,

slightly higher elevation hillsides in Dundee

food-friendly acidity, appealing to unoaked

working two jobs: one to pay the bills and

Hills and Chehalem Mountains and provide

Chardonnay adherents.

one to feed the soul. He and Athena’s first

a softer and juicier profile with sweeter cher-

vintage was 2003 (they made 400 cases)

ry and currant notes, mingled with raspberry

and in 2008 they built their own winery

and lighter fruit finishing softer.

larger tastings in Ocala and then sampled and signed their wines at a smaller tasting in Winter Park. They spent their last few days in Satellite Beach to recover from this whirlwind visit.

in Portland.

Athena runs the cellar and Stewart tends to be more of the wine geek, but I can tell you that they are a formidable team, showing

Local geography makes things a little more

their passion and love for their business.

The 2013 vintage was heralded as a very

complicated, as the winds through the Van

Athena and Stewart are committed to their

problematic vintage due to an arrant tropical

Duzer Gap from the coast moderate the

vineyards, to their growers and to making the

storm that hit the Northwest in the early fall.

character of certain blocks, sometimes split-

best possible wine using ethical practices that

Therefore 2013 was “all about the viticulture,”

ting fruit between the Stewart and Athena

support long term sustainability. o

styles for true micro-climate variation! The wine journal | 10

Athena Pappas and Stewart Boedecker

wine winejournal journal || 11

CASILLERO DEL DIABLO ALLIE SMALLWOOD • @ABCWINECOUNTRY • ALLIES@ABCFWS.COM

W

ine, like many other sophistications in life, has curious little quirks that make it all the more attractive.

Chilean wine, with its potent finesse and understated fruit character, usually draws only the most developed of palates. Casillero del Diablo is a shining example of Chilean wines that have tantalized American glasses over the past five years.

Marcelo Papa, winemaker of Concha y Toro’s Casillero del Diablo and Marques di Casa Concha, shared with me a few of the peculiarities that allows him to work with the fruit and terroir to make these versatile wines: “Casillero is a wine where we blend many different vineyards and different areas and valleys and then we make the final [wine], so Casillero, normally Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc or Cabernet is a blend of 20, 30, 40 different vineyards from Chile. When I’m working on Marques, it’s different because it’s a single vineyard concept, so it’s one vineyard, which we use for the Marques grapes, so but in different areas. Every single variety needs different soils, weather, climate to express the best. I mean for Cabernet Sauvignon we have a vineyard in Maipo, for Chardonnay we have a vineyard in the Limarí region. But the difference between the two projects (Casillero and Marques) is that Marques is a single vineyard concept and Casillero is a blend.”

A blend of some perfectly suited grapes to their most appropriate environment. In Limarí, where many of the Casillero vineyards are, Marcelo explained that the top of the soil is red clay which is crucial because the wet clay gives structure and good texture to the Chardonnay and the Pinot Noir. These wines, he discussed, are very delicate and need the red clay to support the volume and the limestone which is under the clay. “It’s great because it gets close to the humidity and it gets the water drop by drop to these two varieties to move and grow in a good way. The limestone also gives a very nice minerality in the wines; when you taste those wines you will find that the wines are quite mineral, quite salty with good acidity and good extract.”

As many world-class chefs will tell you, salt and more salt is really a powerhouse flavor bomb. It enhances everything, and the more you add, the more complexities will come from the food. Marcelo recognizes that

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this is, interestingly enough, what happens to Chilean wines when Mother Nature takes the reigns. “It’s true, it’s true! These mineral conditions help [coax] out flavor… and the Pinot Noir and the Chardonnay, they like these type of conditions. So what better than to be in an area like Limarí which has good climate, limestone and red clay?”

But there are two factors that really allow Casillero del Diablo to shine uniquely. “I have two really big influences from 1) the Pacific Ocean and 2) the winds are coming from the west to the east, always, so the winds are coming from the ocean inland. We are receiving a fresh breeze from the Pacific Ocean all the time. And then on the other side we have the separation between Argentina and Chile, and it’s a big wall that keeps all the freshness in one central area, and so all these factors make it so that the wines from Chile are different.

Usually we have a beautiful blue sky so we have a lot of sun to get good fruit character.”

The wines no doubt have a very good balance between power and elegance. But at the end of the day, these well-made Chilean wines taste like a higher end bottle and they boast a well-priced tag. Marcelo mentioned that many people, when they first taste them, often ask why they are not more expensive. Expensive wines aren’t always the best and Casillero produces quality wine with a sense of terroir. o

CASILLERO DEL DIABLO MERLOT ($9) So delicious, this red from Chile is too good to miss. Inhale the amazing aromas of black cherries and coal leading to a sumptuous taste of plum, cedar, black cherry and milk chocolate. Pair with beef, duck and game.

CASILLERO DEL DIABLO CABERNET SAUVIGNON ($9) This has a sappy, kirsch-like feel, with ripe, dark fruit, well-integrated toast and a medium-weight, accessible and polished finish. Drink now and pair with BBQ, beef and lamb.

CASILLERO DEL DIABLO MALBEC ($9) Good plum, herb and vanilla notes run through this focused, medium-weight Merlot. Drink now and pair with beef, duck and game.

Marcelo Papa

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California S H AY N E H E B E R T • @ A B C W I N E S H AY N E • S H AY N E H @ A B C F W S .C O M

I

n early summer 2016, ABC’s wine team put forth

an all-out effort to sniff out more California wine.

The task was unlike anything we had done in the past: It was a month spent banging on doors, meeting with friends and getting lost on the dusty back roads of both Napa Valley and Sonoma County in our biggest organized attempt yet to source juice for our Direct To You portfolio.

Following the recent 2012, 2013 and 2014 vintages in Northern California is no simple task— But when the 2015 crop arrived two facts were quickly apparent: 1) The wines were again fabulous, with great color, lovely aromatics and depth provided by ripe fruit, and 2) Yields would turn out to be between 30-40% lower than the three preceding vintages, but of average size based on a 10-year average.

In Napa Valley, the much reported drought took a summer off… kind of. Precipitation was close to three-quarters of their average. Vine shatter took its toll (shatter is the vines’ response to wind, rain or extreme temperature variations) and with reported

In Sonoma County, growers were expecting yields

heat spikes in October, picking commenced early

to be about 30% lower than the previous three vin-

and harvest was complete by mid-October, 2-3

tages, and despite inconsistent weather, the grapes

weeks ahead of normal schedule. Fortunately, the

came in with good ripeness and concentration, a

grapes (very small clusters caused by shatter) were

few weeks ahead of normal harvest patterns.

healthy and offered good concentration and depth, just as you’d expect from Napa wines.

So what does all that mean once the wines arrive on our shelves? It means you should consider stocking up on your favorite Napa Cabernet, Russian River Pinot Noir and Sonoma Coast Chardonnay!

Space limits me from noting all of the great wines we tasted, (each meeting offered at least a surprise or two) but I’ll mention the real stand-outs. We spent one late afternoon at Roth Estate Winery in the Chalk Hill district of Sonoma County working through the wines from the Foley Wine Group.

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D reamin’ We found excellent juice from them in the past from

was flawless—the salad alone was simply perfect!

the Santa Rita Hills AVA and were excited this year

Grilled local artichokes with 2013 Lieu Dit Sau-

to find both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay again, this

vignon Blanc Santa Ynez Valley at the Rutherford

time from one of my favorite AVAs, Chalone, which

Grill… Grilled cuttlefish, sweetbreads and stinko

is located in the Gabilan Range. I cannot wait for

at Osteria Ca’Momi… An 8-course tasting menu at

these to arrive!

Morimoto Napa with wines like Raveneau Chablis

Tasting with Trevor Sheehan at his soon-to-open restaurant in downtown Napa, we fell in love with the new vintage of the Navigator Napa Red Wine

‘Montée de Tonnerre,’ Jacques Selosse ‘Initial’ Champagne, 1955 Chateau Siran and more. Next year can’t come fast enough! o

($17)—it’s a beauty with deep color and a flavorful blend of Zinfandel and Petite Sirah. We also secured a good supply of Octopoda Cabernet Oakville ($40) as well as the sister wine, a Cabernet from the Atlas Peak AVA. This writing on Napa and Sonoma would be incomplete if the cuisine didn’t receive equal billing!

Wine Country, California, just does it right! They specialize in fresh, local, organic and simplistic preparation that captures intense flavors, local flare and match so well with the wine. One highlight was dinner at Chalk Hill Winery. Rivaling a Michelin-starred restaurant, the 4-course symphony

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