Wine Journal March/April 2016

wine journal Ma rch /Ap r i l 2016

ABC F I N E W I N E & SPI R ITS W I N E MAGA ZI N E

The Organic Standard

THE KING OF WHITE WINE STEPS DOWN FOR NEW WHITE FAVORITES Get the tasting notes on the back!

The ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Wine Journal is a bimonthly publication of ABC Fine Wine & Spirits. Copyright 2016 ABC Liquors, Inc. All rights reserved.

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Allie Smallwood Editor allies@abcfws.com Meghan Guarino Contributing Editor meghang@abcfws.com OUR WINE EXPERTS: Jim Greeley Southwest Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor Shayne Hebert Central Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor Atanas Nechkov Central Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor

“The happiest people don’t have the best of everything… they just drink wine.”

–Tanya Masse

Paul Quaglini Southeast Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor Bill Stobbs West Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor Dan Eddy Northeast Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor Heather Burton East Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor If you would like to ensure you’re receiving the Wine Journal each time it’s published, send an email to Jennifer Baker (JenniferB@abcfws.com) and we’ll add you to the “always mail” list.

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wine journal | 2 A

3 5 6 8 9 10

PERIMETER WINES

50% Washington, 50% California, Perimeter Winery is as layered and complex as the wines it crafts.

JOEL GOTT + RELATIVE RED

Joel Gott on his business philosophies and wine crafting tendencies.

ORGANIC WINES

Even red wine has gone green.

Atanas clues us in to the good stuff.

EASTER WINES

Paul’s grandma would’ve been proud of this wine selection.

ALTERNATIVE WHITES

The other white wine (pairs well with the other white meat).

DON’T BE AFRAID OF PINK!

Man up and say it with us…

Yes way, rosé!

11 12 14 15 16

DINING WITH CHAMPAGNE

From perlage to acidity, Shayne breaks down Champagne for us (it’s not just for NYE).

WINE AND TIME

A guide for expert wine cellars.

VALCKENBERG

Brad is using retirement to seek out the best sips.

WINES TO WATCH

What’s #trending at ABC.

WAGNER RIESLING SELECT

From New York state, this Riesling is silky and balanced.

Hal Landvoigt for Perimeter Wines DANIEL EDDY • @ABCWINEDANE • DANE@ABCFWS.COM

P

California red blend we are not trying to

small potatoes in the world of wine, which

little bit California. But with a winery run

make it taste like a Washington red blend.

is not a bad place to be. We’re just getting to

by a talented maker trained in the Pacific

What are the grapes we’re going to use up

the second or third round of grape plant-

Northwest, balancing the terroir of two

here that really reflect what Washington has

ings and every time that happens we learn

distinct states is all part of the fun. I sat

to offer? Even the kind of oak regimes we

down with Perimeter winemaker Hal

something. We’ve got a long way to go but

use in Washington versus California, those

Landvoigt to talk more about the bold

we also have a head start in terms of our

decisions are made not because we have a

wines in this riveting portfolio.

scientific understanding of what we’re doing.

formulaic recipe for “this is the way that we

The more people that we can get to drink

oak Perimeter wines” but because this is the

wine and the more that we can just get them

right oak to use for this grape in this region

to try anything, the better off we’re all going

to give us the end results we want.

to be, not just for the wine but for the

erimeter is a little bit Washington and a

DE: How long have you been making wine?

HL: Well I’ve been at Precept for almost 11 years now, really since the beginning. Before that I was always sort of hobbying; fermenting whatever… everything from Juicy Juice in cans on top of heaters in dorm rooms to homebrewed beer.

DE: You seemed to jump into this and feel empowered to make wine, even when it was just out of a Juicy Juice container, so I’m curious, was there a family tradition?

HL: No. My feeling about everything is that if you don’t know how to do it, you just need to get a book, read the book a couple of

DE: That was one of my questions, what

world in general.

makes Perimeter stand out among

DE: Is there anything else that you would

Washington wines?

say is very particular to the personality of

HL: I think that they’re affordable. Especially

Perimeter wines?

at that price point, the things that I like to

HL: I would like to imagine that all the parties

see are I like them to be approachable and

where it gets served are really fun parties.

I like them to be really versatile. One of my jobs as a winemaker is to get more people to drink wine. What comes out of Washington state is radically different than what comes

DE: I’m using that line, that’s a good one.

HL: And they can invite me to those parties anytime that they want.

out of most of California. I think we’re still

times and then give it a shot and the worst that could happen is you screw it up. And other than open-heart surgery, there are not many places where if you screw it up, it’s really the end of the world.

DE: What was the bottle of wine that made you want to be a winemaker? Do you remember?

HL: 1978 Taltarni Shiraz Reserva, about 1991, I was not quite of age, but we don’t need to say that.

DE: What do you highlight in each Perimeter blend that is more Washington or more California?

HL: I mean, the blends are different too. In terms of what we have to work with, for the wine journal | 3

WINE LIST RED

AGLIANICO

Pepe Taurasi 2009 (p 13)

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

Buoncristiani Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 (p 13)

DORNFELDER

Valckenberg Dornfelder (p 14)

NEBBIOLO

GODELLO

Atalaya do Mar Godello (p 9)

GRECO

Tenuta Pepe Greco di Tufo (p 8)

GRÜNER VELTLINER

Cabutto Barolo Vigna la Volta (p 8) Pelissero Barbaresco ‘Nubiola’ (p 13) Traversa Barbaresco Sori Ciabot (p 8)

Weingut Höpler Grüner Veltliner (p 9)

NERO D’AVOLA

PJ Valckenberg Pinot Blanc (p 9)

PINOT NOIR

Sant’Elena Pinot Grigio (p 8,15)

Caruso & Minini Nero d’Avola (p 6) Año Verde Pinot Noir (p 15) Maison Champy Echezeaux 2009 (p 13) Valckenberg Undone Pinot Noir (p 14) PRIMITIVO Racemi Giravolta Primativo (p 8)

RED BLEND

Château Larcis-Ducasse 2012 (p 12) Château Latour 2004 (p 12) Navigator Red (p 15) Podere Sopaio Bolgheri Superiore 2006 (p 13) Relative Republic Red (p 5)

SANGIOVESE

Calonica Rosso di Montepulciano (p 15) La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino 2010 (p 13) TANNAT Château Bouscasse Vielle Vignes 2007 (p 12)

ZINFANDEL

Shannon Ridge High Elevation Zinfandel (p 15)

WHITE

ALBARIÑO

Coral do Mar Albariño (p 9)

CHARDONNAY

B Chardonnay (p 15) Maison Champy Meursault 2013 (p 13) Pellegrini Chardonnay (p 15)

wine journal | 4

GEWÜRZTRAMINER

PJ Valckenberg Gewürztraminer (p 9) Valckenberg Gewürztraminer (p 14)

PINOT BLANC PINOT GRIGIO RIESLING

Valckenberg Liebfrauenstift- Kirchenstück Dry Riesling (p 14) Valckenberg Madonna Kabinett (p 14) Valckenberg Madonna Spätlese (p 14) Valckenberg Madonna Auslese (p 14) Valckenberg Undone Dry Riesling (p 14) Wagner Riesling Select (p 15, 16)

SAUVIGNON BLANC

High Valley Sauvignon Blanc (p 15) VERDICCHIO Marotti Campi Verdicchio (p 8) Nunzio Ghiraldi Lugana (p 8) VERMENTINO Santa Maria La Palma Vermentino Blu (p 8)

SPARKLING

Bellavista Franciacorta (p 8) Ca d’Gal Moscato d’Asti (p 10) Charles Mignon Premier Cru Brut NV (p 10) Collalto Brut (p 8) Collalto Prosecco Extra Dry (p 8) Contadi Castaldi Franciacorta Brut (p 10) Contadi Castaldi Franciacorta Rosé (p 10) Dominio de la Peseta Cava (p 9, 10) Haton Brut Blanc de Blancs (p 15) Haton Extra Brut (p 10) Haton Extra Rosé (p 10) Jean Phillippe Banquette de Limoux (p 10)

Joel Gott,

“ T HE GRAPES LEAD TO EVERYTHING.” ALLIE SMALLWOOD • @ABCWINECOUNTRY • ALLIES@ABCFWS.COM

Apparently even burgers. Joel Gott of the Gott’s Roadside burger palace and engineer behind the juice of Joel Gott wines has found a cozy little spot in the wine marketplace. It’s called Relative Red, named for all the family that Joel works with. (“I always complain about all the relatives that I work with, in all my businesses, and how I’m related to somebody there,” he joked.) It’s a well-structured, sweet-fruited red blend that needs to be beside the next burger or grilled chicken sandwich you eat.

Relative Red started as an overflow of wine from the Joel Gott lots. “I would take little pieces of different wines and then put them aside, use them for experiments, and then blend them together and then we would sell a little bit of the bottle called Relative Red because I would make it exclusively for my relatives.” While he promised that he would never give them anything for free, he did talk about how the project is ongoing. “I don’t make it every year, it’s just when we

Complexity that offers a perfect match with a flame-grilled, gooey cheese-topped burger, especially if you ask Joel: “To me, something like a red blend is classic like cheeseburger or grilled chicken sandwich food.” Although Relative Red isn’t a very tannic wine, it still holds up to sandwich meats beautifully.

have extra wine and it’s good and it’s

Because the wine is softer, but with great

a big vintage and it’s fun to make.”

structure, it might be a fantastic wine for

Its structure, mouthfeel and fruit ensure that it’s a ripe, juicy Californian wine. Joel mentioned that the structure is really what allows the wine to maintain its sense of place. “For instance being heavy on Zinfandel or Cabernet creates a lot of structure in a wine… if it’s heavy on Merlot it’ll be a much lighter style, a softer style wine, so I always prefer to have more Merlot or Cabernet.” But when it comes to residualsugar, you’ll find very little. “The wine has sweet fruit so it has some complexity to it.”

those with younger palates or who are new to the wine world. When we asked Joel if he was looking for that business his answer was honest and endearing: “No, I think that a lot of people say they’re going after something in the wine category, but for us we just put our best foot forward. We try to figure out ‘What do we like to drink?’, ‘What do you think’s the best quality that he can do?’ and then if people like it then it’s great. We don’t try to pinpoint an exact person.”

Joel and his team are blending wines for themselves. And that’s not a bad place to start. wine journal | 5

C E R T I F I E D ORGANIC ATANAS NECHKOV • @ABCWINEATANAS • ATANASN@ABCFWS.COM

O

rganic and biodynamic wines are made

He politely agreed that these are some of his

Therefore, the vines produce healthier fruit

from grapes grown in accordance with principles

best efforts and shared my enthusiasm about

which directly affects the quality of the final

of organic or biodynamic farming, which

the wines but gave all the credit to the vineyard:

product in a positive way.

excludes the use of pesticides, fungicides,

“The years of hard work are finally paying back;

herbicides and artificial chemical fertilizer.

the vines are healthier and the fruit is of the

The amount of sulfites is at the lowest possible

best quality ever.”

level, not to exceed 24 milligrams per liter

After several years of organic farming the cost of vineyard operation actually goes down (no need to buy chemicals), not to mention

There are many old and proven techniques to

that the lifespan of the vines doubles; they are

fight pests. The Lunar Calendar is also closely

healthier and more resistant to Mother Nature’s

followed; Fruit and Flower days are set aside

changing moods. According to Thierry

for plant work like pruning, disbudding, cluster

Germain (Domaine des Roches Neuves),

The difference is that for a vineyard to be

thinning and of course harvesting; on Leaf and

during the heat wave of 2003, a very challenging

considered biodynamic, the vine-grower must

Root days the least work is done on the plant.

vintage for white wine in particular, he was

use the nine biodynamic preparations, as

Instead, tasks benefiting the root system are

able to harvest his Chenin Blanc at perfect

described in 1924 by Rudolf Steiner. These are

performed, such as plowing or hoeing. Lunar

phenolic ripeness and acidity and normal

made from cow manure, quartz (silica) and

Node (bad period) is when the movement of

potential alcohol levels, while many growers

seven medicinal plants. Organic viticulture

the moon and other planets creates periods

had fruit with potential alcohol level in excess

allows the use of Bordeaux mixture (Bouillie

less conducive to life—these days all work on

of 16%; many lesser white wines of that year

Bordelaise), a combination of copper sulfate

the vine should be avoided.

smelled like nail polish.

What are the benefits of organic farming for

Sustainable farming does not guarantee an

the winery and the consumer? Organic viti-

organic certification but includes some

culture mostly benefits the ecosystem and the

additional steps. Examples include the use of

Organic practice is a desire to work in a certain

vines themselves, restates the balance of nature

composting and the cultivation of plants that

harmony alongside nature and its rhythms and

and makes the vine naturally more resistant to

attract insects that are beneficial to the health

patterns, to listen more closely to it, and to

the changing weather conditions and pests.

of the vines. Sustainable practices also extend

(conventional viticulture could use sulfites in excess of 100 mg/L in red wines and 150 mg/L in whites and rosés).

(blue stone), lime and water; organic growers are limiting its use more and more these days because of copper build-up in the soil.

understand and sublimate it… that obviously excludes all use of chemicals for treatment.

Nature’s balance is disturbed by the use of herbicides and pesticides; the soil becomes sterile.

Philippe Zinck (Domain Paul Zinck) from Alsace put an end to the “recommended” chemical treatments on his family vineyards in the late ‘90s. He knew that it takes time and dedication to bring dead soil back to life.

A couple of years ago, I was sampling with Philippe two of his most recent vintages and made a comment to him that these are, in my in my humble opinion, his best wines yet.

“Did you change your vinification or aging techniques?” I asked without trying to hide my ignorance. wine journal | 66

Organic vineyards Château Trians in Provence

to actions such as providing areas for wildlife

sulfur, decanting and aeration are a must; sulfur

to flourish near vineyard sites (this provides

is fast to evaporate and the wine will show its

vegetation for the animals, which keeps them

best fruit at the moment of consumption.

from eating the grapes) and allowing weeds and wildflowers to grow between the vines (this stresses the vines and forces them to produce fewer bunches of grapes with a greater

The following wine estates make wine from organically grown grapes and are currently available in select ABC Fine Wine & Spirits.

concentration of flavor). Sustainable farmers are increasingly using bio-diesel for tractors in the vineyards (which reduces harmful emissions among the vines) or plowing with horses.

BIODYNAMIC

Oakville East

Maysara

A good example of sustainable farming

Bila-Haut

is Shannon Ridge Winery in Lake

County, California.

Lake County boasts an ideal climate and altitude for sustainable wine-grape production;

ORGANIC

Champy

La Croix

Petit Guiraud

Jonathan Didier

Domaine Magellan

Château Petit Roubie

Château Gigognan

Finally, sulfites in wine. Sulfur is used during

Château Pibaron

the aging process and before bottling to stabilize

Château Trians

the wine and prevent bacterial growth and

La Cappuccina

re-fermenting. Most of the wines made with

La Ripa

certified organic grapes do not have the USDA

Poggerino

organic certification for the bottle of wine itself

Castillo de Alicante

because of the added sulfites. If sensitive to

Bodegas Murviedro

higher and drier mountains have less pests and mildew pressure. Cold winters reduce pest population, and a shorter season requires fewer pesticides and other applications. As a result, Lake County uses fewer pesticides than most other wine regions in California.

Aguijón

Bug houses at Château Guiraud, the first domain in Sauternes to be certified organic, are placed in the vineyards to attract bugs and encourage biodiversity.

A Château Guiraud bug house

wine journal | 7

Buona Pasqua!

Happy Easter!

PAUL QUAGLINI • @ABCWINEPAULQ • PAULQ@ABCFWS.COM

G

rowing up Catholic, Easter Sunday ranked high up with

the elaborate, festive dinners of Christmas and Thanksgiving.

The observance of Lent in the 40 days leading up to Easter meant there was an absence of decadent food and wine, which served to make the Easter Sunday feast all the more enjoyable.

My Italian grandmother was the stereotypical matriarch of the family. Her Easter dinner almost always included both a roasted ham and a leg of lamb along with all her traditional side dishes. Unfortunately, I’m certain she gave no thought to pairing wine with food. I think her mindset back then was if it came in a big jug and had an Italian name on it was good enough for the dinner table. In her memory (and to rectify the wine selection) I’d like to suggest a few Italian wines that would have made her celebratory Easter Sunday dinner next-level delectable.

As your guests arrive, nothing sets the mood for a celebration better

Italy is also teeming with white wines that have a similar flavor profile. In no specific order, Santa Maria La Palma Vermentino Blu, Marotti Campi Verdicchio, Nunzio Ghiraldi Lugana and Tenuta Pepe Greco di Tufo would all be delicious, conversation-inspiring alternatives on your dinner table.

Italian red wines are so diverse and versatile with food that it would be almost impossible to narrow your choices to just a few… but I’ll try. If you are serving ham, I would go with a red that has a fresh, flavorful taste profile with enough sweet fruit to balance the salt in the ham. Racemi Giravolta Primitivo and Caruso & Minini Nero d’Avola are two southern Italian favorites that will work perfectly. If lamb is the center piece of your meal, then almost any red with decent tannin structure, good fruit and a finish that can endure the robust flavors of the lamb will work. A Barolo or Barbaresco from the Piedmont region (made with the Nebbiolo grape) will withstand

than a glass of sparkling wine. Thankfully there is no shortage of high

the powerful flavors of my rosemary and garlic roast leg of lamb;

quality bubbly from Italy to choose from. Since prosecco has been

try Cabutto Barolo Vigna la Volta, Traversa Barbaresco Sori Ciabot

embraced by Americans in recent years, look for a top quality prosecco

or Pelissero Barbaresco Nubiola.

like Collalto Prosecco Extra Dry or Brut. A bottle of Franciacorta from Bellavista will really spoil your guests.

My Nonni’s efforts to ensure that Easter was joyous often went without “good” wine. Our family still enjoyed Easter Sunday in all its fun, so

Just because you are serving ham or lamb doesn’t mean you can forget

imagine how much more your family will with these upgraded wine

about white wine drinkers. If you know that one or more of your guests

pairings! Mangia bene and Buona Pasqua!

likes Pinot Grigio then don’t try to reinvent the wheel for one meal.

Besides, many Italian whites have naturally high acidity that will cut through and complement the fattiness of the meat perfectly.

If you do decide to go with a Pinot Grigio, choose one with character and concentration to stand up to the food, such as Sant’Elena Pinot Grigio.

Alternative Whites as Easy as ABC JIM GREELEY • @ABCWINEJIMG • JAMESG@ABCFWS.COM

I

’ve been a fan of alternative white wines

palate. Coral do Mar Albariño ($13) is rem-

Riesling undoubtedly rules the roost. There

for as long as I can remember. Alternative to

iniscent of green apple and stone fruits with a

are other fine whites that are worthy of mention

what, you might ask? Well, to Chardonnay.

dash of stony minerality for added measure.

too. Pinot Grigio and its cousin, Pinot Blanc

I’ve been a proud banner-waving, card-car-

It’s great paired with delicate sea scallops or

does quite well here. Produced in the Rhein-

rying, soap-box standing member of the

a tapas of Pimientos de Padron.

hessen, PJ Valckenberg Pinot Blanc ($12) is

Anything But Chardonnay gang since my first sip of Sancerre many eons ago.

Godello unfortunately plays second fiddle to Albariño in the Galician grape hierarchy.

crisp and balanced on the palate, with apple and pear notes and a lively, fresh finish.

That’s not meant as an indictment on the

Perhaps that’s due to its near extinction in

Gewürztraminer is versatile enough to serve

varietal as I too enjoy a good glass of Char-

the region less than 40 short years ago. It was

with Asian cuisine. “Gewürz” translates to

donnay now and then; everything in its time

resurrected at Bodegas Godeval in Valdeorras

“spicy” and coincidently PJ Valckenberg

and place, after all. And to be honest, the

and has thankfully spread to vineyards in

Gewürztraminer ($11) presents a spicy

throng of Chardonnay-loving masses can’t be

nearby Monterrei. Atalaya do Mar Godello

bouquet of rose petal with notes of peach

all wrong. Yet too many white drinkers “set-

($13) offers white flowers and citrus, with

and lychee on the palate. It’s full-flavored

tle” for the status quo in my humble opinion,

tinges of baking spices, talc and honey all

and off-dry, displaying Gewürztraminer’s

when many more enticing and food-friendly

wrapped up in zesty acidity.

secondary notes of nutmeg and clove.

Travel to the Alpine side of the European

And let us not forget that Chardonnay is a

continent to find Austria’s hometown grape,

principal ingredient to many sparkling wines.

First to the obscure: Appellations in north-

Grüner Veltliner. Jost Höpler’s family winery

As an alternative to blanc de blancs Champagne,

ern Spain excel at making great alternative

is located in Breitenbrunn on the banks of

try a well-made Cava from Catalonia.

whites. Think Godello, Verdejo and Albariño

Lake Neusiedl with vineyards planted on

Dominio de la Peseta Brut ($10) is a blend

from places like Monterrei, Rueda and Rías

contrasting soils of chalk, gravel, sand and

of traditional grape varieties, Macabeo,

Baixas.

slate. Weingut Höpler Grüner Veltliner

Parellada and Xarel-lo. It has bright acidity

($15) displays aromas of peach, roses, apricot

and a fine structure with toasty overtones

and lime with a hint of white pepper and is

from sur-lie aging and a fine bead of

a fine match with schnitzel, salads and soft

tiny bubbles.

choices linger in wine regions both great and obscure.

Albariño, the white grape of Rías Baixas, gets a fair amount of well-deserved press these days. It’s the premier grape variety grown on granitic sub-soils along the region’s cold

white cheeses.

Atlantic coast. It produces vibrant wines with

Now for the sublime and not so obscure:

complex bouquets and persistence on the

On the banks of the Rhine River in Germany,

wine journal | 9

Dining with Champagne SHAYNE HEBERT • @ABCWINESHAYNE • SHAYNEH@ABCFWS.COM

“W

hy do I drink Champagne for break-

fast? Doesn’t everyone?” - Noel Coward First, let me come clean… I like Champagne and sparkling wines, but I don’t love Champagne and sparkling wines.

If you’re the same, ask yourself if you automatically assume that Champagne is too expensive to drink more than once or twice a year.

That might be a safe bet, depending on your budget, but not all the good bubbly is from Champagne, and not all Champagne is expensive. Another possible reason more of us don’t drink more of them is because of the interplay of wine and food. Red wine with meat, white wine with fish, yeah, yeah, we’ve heard it all before… but what about bubbly? You see, red wine is fine with meat, and white

you find rosé Champagnes being paired

Some bottles may not have any dosage

with red meat dishes, pork, bacon-in-

while others have up to 50 grams per liter,

fused preparations and even stews. Toss

which is quite sweet. In order from driest

in the natural acidity of sparkling wines,

to sweetest, here is the terminology you

which get this vibrancy from early har-

should look for: Brut Nature, Extra Brut,

vested grapes in many cases, and you

Brut, Extra Dry (Extra Seco or Extra Sec),

have an obvious pairing with shellfish,

Dry (Sec or Seco), Demi-Sec (Semi Seco)

seafood and pretty much anything you

and finally, Doux (Sweet or Dulce).

might squeeze a lemon over.

By nature, Champagne and sparkling

Dominio de la

Peseta Cava

Penedès, Spain $10

wines already possess four of the five sensations you taste. Early harvested grapes give bubbly high acidity and even a bitter component, while the dosage (added sugar) adds a minor sweetness.

Since there is nothing salty about these wines, try pairing them with dishes with an obvious salty component; ham for certain, salami, too, and of course, caviar.

wine can certainly enhance a nice piece

Have a sweet tooth? Again you can rely

of fish, but sparkling wines can do both,

on the bubbles! Only this time seek out

easily, saving you from having to open a

a demi-sec or doux style Champagne, as

red and a white—Champagne pairs well

the rule here is to be certain the Cham-

with nearly everything!

pagne is sweeter than the dessert.

Sparkling wines’ fizz is a great palate

So how does one tell how sweet, or dry,

cleanser, brightening up the flavors of

the bottle is? Most Champagne and

rich dishes and cutting through the fatty

sparkling wine labels will give you an

component of greasy foods. This is why

idea of the relative sweetness of the wine.

wine journal | 10

Jean Philippe Blanquette

de Limoux France $13

Ca d’Gal Moscato d’Asti

Piedmont, Italy $15

Contadi Castaldi

Franciacorta Brut or Rosé

Lombardy, Italy $22

Charles Mignon Premier Cru

Brut NV Champagne, France $40

Haton Extra Brut and Extra Brut Rose NV Champagne, France $45 – $46

Enjoying the Adventure – Don’t Be Afraid of Pink!

BILL STOBBS • @ABCWINEBILLS • WSTOBBS@ABCFWS.COM

T

o drink wine is to become an explorer.

With the coming of fine spring weather and sunnier days spent in the open air, a new adventure presents itself to us – the wines that are called rosé in France, rosado in Spanish and Portuguese speaking countries, rosato in Italy, and occasionally blush in America.

the first method. The third method is rosé wine made from blending red and white wines together. This is deemed the least interesting style of rosé. The method, in fact, is outlawed in France altogether except in the Champagne area where a little red wine – usually Pinot Noir – is allowed to be added to produce rosé Champagne.

Now don’t be afraid. Many of us in Ameri-

The most likeable thing, perhaps, about dry

ca – especially males – are more than a little

rosé is its simplicity. First of all, the wine is

uncertain about being seen with this wine

often comparatively inexpensive and some-

anomaly. After all, pink is not for boys, is it?

times even downright cheap. Yet its quality

But have no fear. In the rest of the world real

shines through. It doesn’t try to be something

men – and real women too! – enjoy rosé on

it is not – rosé wine is simple and honest. It

a regular basis. Indeed, rosé is the ideal out-

refreshes. It prepares the palate for food. And

door wine, the ideal afternoon wine and the

while it can pair very well with more complex

ideal culinary wine that pairs amazingly with

dishes – from Asian and Mexican cuisine to

so many kinds of food. It is not too heavy but

seafood and shellfish and bouillabaisse (rosé

not too light. Not too bold but not too puny.

exists, as someone once said, because fish

Not too audacious but not too timid.

soup exists) to many chicken and even lamb

A glass of rosé seems to hold sunlight and

dishes – the beauty of it is that it works so

soft breezes in its very essence, and passes

well with simple food also.

it on to you with every sip.

A glass of dry rosé brings to mind an

So what makes rosé wine rosé? Well, there are three methods of making rosé. The first, most often used, and on the whole considered the best, is wine made from red grapes having very little skin contact during the maceration process. It is the red skin of the grape, not its pulp, which gives wine its red color. If skin contact is limited – usually 12 to 24 hours before pressing – the wine takes on a wonderful pink hue. The second method is what the French call ‘saignée,’ in which some of the juice is bled from the must of the red wine. Initially the purpose of this was to concentrate the red wine, but winemakers soon

accompanying plate of whole almonds with an olive oil drizzle and coarse sea salt; olives with grated lemon zest and thyme; pissaladière, that wonderful cheese-less onion pizza topped with garlic, thyme, olives and, if desired, anchovy fillets. Or what about a good, simple sandwich – prosciutto, say, or soppressata – with real butter on a fresh, crusty baguette? Why do we so often complicate sandwiches with a chaotic mixture of meats, cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, pickles and an uneasy assortment of condiments and chips, when the simple thing gives such great flavor and gratification?

found that the run-off offered a very likeable

Especially while enjoying the adventure

rosé. There are many very fine saignée wines,

with a delicious glass of dry rosé!

but generally it is not regarded as highly as

wine journal | 11

Do You Want to Build a Cellar Part III: H E AT H E R B U R T O N • @ A B C W I N E H E AT H E R B • H E AT H E R B @ A B C F W S .C O M

E

The estate is located at the southern

a hint of white acacia flower. The palate

cellar into a keeper of time, a purveyor of

end of Pauillac, bordering the St-Julien

shows great generosity with volume and

precise moments in history, a pharaoh’s

vineyards of Château Leoville Las Cases.

creamy density immersed in woody

tomb, if you will, is a lifelong journey to

After three weeks of maceration followed

vanilla make this wine substantial today

achieving a different kind of mastery –

by malolactic fermentation in vats, the

and the things dreams are made of in

chasing greatness.

chosen wine to become Château Latour is

4-5 years.

volving a functional drinkable wine

There is a myth about wine that refuses to wither, let alone die, which is that all wine improves with age. The question most frequently asked about any specific

run off into 100% new barrels for aging.

Château Latour has been for many the most consistent performer amongst the first growths over the past century.

Nowhere in the Côte de Beaune does the Chardonnay grape do better than in Meursault, where the hard Comblanchien limestone disappears deep underground

wine is, “When will it be at its best?” The

CHÂTEAU LARCIS-DUCASSE 2012, $68

around Nuits-Saint-Georges and reap-

inconvenient truth is that even a wine’s

Dark and winey, with steeped currant,

pears here, along with Jurassic marls,

maker can only guess, and the reality is

macerated plum and warm boysenberry

Marly and Magnesian limestone.

that the only thing predictable about wine

coulis flavors, laced with licorice snap

is its unpredictability—wine is a living

and roasted apple wood notes. The char-

capricious entity. Don’t despair—despite

coal edge is buried on the finish, with a

these realities, the magical magnificence

lingering minerality. Lots going on here.

of fine wine prevails!

Needs time. Best from 2017 through

Generally speaking, the more tannin in a

2027. 93 points, Wine Spectator

Founded in 1720, Champy is both the first established wine house of Burgundy and a pioneer of the Burgundy vineyard for its rational practice of organic and sustainable farming methods. With winemaker Dimitri Bazas holding the reins it

red wine and the more acidity in a white,

Owned today by the Gratiot-Alphandéry

will be tough to find wines that express

the longer the wines will age. Again in

family and under the management of

the nuances of Burgundian terroirs better

very general terms it is possible to say

Nicolas Thienpont since 2002, the vine-

than Champy.

which sorts of wine are most worthy of

yard of Larcis-Ducasse is situated on one

laying down. However, at the end of the

of the slopes renowned to have made the

MAISON CHAMPY ÉCHEZEAUX 2009, $195

day, you have to let your palate decide—

reputation of St-Émilion.

Effusive aromas of black cherry and oak spice introduce this flamboyant red,

work at the Beginner and Intermediate

CHÂTEAU BOUSCASSE VIEILLES VIGNES 2007, $43

stage of building our cellars*. Now, with

The cuvée Vieilles Vignes of the Château

acidity and edgy tannins, balanced by

more expensive and harder decisions to

Bouscasse is produced by more than

plenty of fruit. The long, resonant finish

make, let your palate and wine knowledge

50-year-old vines. This is dense, almost

bodes well for future development. 93

guide you in choosing your wines. Here

impenetrable, a rich wine that is still

points, Wine Spectator

are just a few suggestions to take your

dominated by dark tannins and black

cellar to the next level.

fruits. A juicy element suggests it is still

after all, that is why we did our home-

CHÂTEAU LATOUR 2004, $730 A powerful, racy yet elegant First Growth Bordeaux blend grabs you from the start with aromas of cherry, cassis, cedar,

fresh, still young enough for fruitiness.

Dark black flavors are still working their way through and developing. Drink from 2017. 95 Points, Wine Spectator

leather, graphite and soft creamy vanilla.

MAISON CHAMPY MEURSAULT 2013, $50

The taste is masculine, plump and creamy

Pale and shining with green and silver

fruit notes with hints of eucalyptus, tar,

highlights, the nose is intense with beau-

licorice and a hint of tannins.

tiful stone fruit and vanilla aromas, with

wine journal | 12

which is vividly structured, with bracing

The wine-growing region of FlageyÉchezeaux lies in the plaine, so called, between Vougeot and Vosne-Romanée in the Côte de Nuits. Their AOC Grands Crus date from July 1937, and like the Clos de Vougeot, they were founded by the monks of the abbey of Cîteaux and date from the 12th and 13th centuries.

THE EXPERT

PEPE TAURASI 2009, $40

mented in steel tanks, then aged in small

Aged in French oak barriques for 12

barriques. The name Nubiola comes

months and 12 months in the bottle.

from a historical treaty dated 1330 that

The deep ruby red color draws you into

mentions one of the best vines known at

complex aromas of ripe red fruits stewed

the time, describing it as a “sort of black

in alcohol, dried prunes and spices. This

grape called Nubiola.” Now we call that

wine is full-bodied and complex with

grape Nebbiolo.

firm tannins. This rich deep red pairs well with red meats of any description

LA GERLA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2010, $130

and gives mature cheese a run for

Cherry and raspberry fruit meets wild

its money.

herb, eucalyptus and underbrush aromas

Taurasi, the king of Campania. Made

and flavors in this dense, muscular red.

from the Aglianico grape from high elevation vineyards with soils that are mixes of calcareous marls and volcanic depos-

All the elements are there, but they need time to integrate. The fresh finish is long, echoing woodsy tobacco notes. 94 points,

its. Some may even say that Taurasi and

Wine Spectator

Barolo were separated at birth—certainly

This estate was originally owned by Bion-

a wine that will stand the test of time.

di Santi family and was bought by Sergio

PODERE SOPAIO BOLGHERI SUPERIORE 2006, $70

Rossi in 1976. Rossi resurrected the

Blackberry, mint and blueberry, with

an undying passion for the land and the

hints of cassis. Full-bodied, with refined

craft which translates into every wine

yet chewy tannins. Pretty and balanced.

that La Gerla produces.

Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc,

vineyards and imparted to his successors

Merlot and Petite Verdot. Best after 2012.

BUONCRISTIANI CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, $190

91 points, James Suckling

Dark, intense and vibrant, featuring a

PELISSERO BARBARESCO ‘NUBIOLA’, $ 95

rich, zesty core of blackberry, wild berry,

The Nubiola is impeccable. Dark red

and persistent throughout, with ripe,

cherries, freshly cut flowers, mint and

chewy tannins. Drink now through 2029.

crushed rocks take shape in the glass.

93 points, Wine Spectator

The style is focused, tense and energetic.

Sweet floral, tobacco and spice notes develop in the glass, and adding depth, complexity and nuance. A blast of fruit and floral aromatics leaves a lasting impression.

currant, cassis, cedar, loamy earth. Full

This is a winery belonging to four brothers who were born and raised in Napa Valley and come from a long lineages of Italian winemakers and wine lovers. They take great pride in what they do at every step of the process. Their motto is quality

The grapes come from six small lots

not quantity and every wine produced

scattered over the three villages of Treiso,

is dutifully handcrafted.

Barbaresco and Neive. The wine is fer*Read about Beginner and Intermediate cellars in past issues of the Wine Journal online at abcfws.com/WineJournal.

VALCKENBERG, A History in Wine

The following Valckenberg wines are available at ABC Fine Wine & Spirits.

Liebfrauenstift-Kirchenstück Dry Riesling – Rheinhessen Yes, Riesling can be made dry. This one has the richness and minerality

BRAD LEWIS

of wines from the vineyard with a dry finish suitable for grilled fish

O

ne of the first people I met in the wine

business was Hans Steifensand when he

established its fame abroad. He gave the

and poultry. $15

wine the Madonna name, inspired by

Madonna Kabinett – Rheinhessen

came to Orlando to sell his Valckenberg wines personally. Within a year, his son

From the early harvest, the kabinett Madonna statue

shows red apple notes and bright

Wilhelm joined him. Wilhelm had just

acidity carrying moderate residual

graduated from college and joined the com-

sugar. It’s a good match for spicy

pany. I really enjoyed their wines and was

foods. $10

fascinated by the history of the family and

Madonna Spätlese – Rheinhessen

estate. In 1982 I was able to visit the estate

The spätlese, or late harvest, is similar

for the first time and meet the family. A lot

to the kabinett with a bit more

has changed since then. I began to order

richness. It’s a good match for spicy,

the wines in the early ‘80s and learned a lot about converting the Deutsche mark to dollars, inland freight, export container loads, import duties and taxes. Wilhelm is still president but has a lot of help now.

We’re both in our sixties now and still in contact.

a statue of the Madonna and child unearthed in the vineyard and placed in a shrine at the foot of the vineyard near the Rhein. The name Liebfraumilch was later applied to almost any wine from the Rhe-

from ABC. Wilhelm Steifensand lives in the old monastery adjacent to the church and vineyard, and we had dinner with him and

ized and auctioned church property and

cream sauces or dessert. $13

Literally “spicy Traminer,” this

My last visit was in 2007 with several people

the French Revolution, Napoleon secular-

a solid pairing for richer foods with

The vineyard around the church is now

Riesling comes from the vineyard.

wine merchant company in 1786. After

Auslese is a richer wine still and is

Gewürztraminer – Rheinhessen

in the family’s possession. Their top dry

Peter Joseph Valckenberg founded his

Madonna Auslese – Rheinhessen

inhessen, but Madonna is still the standard.

Liebfrauenstift-Kirchenstück and is still

500-year-old church

Asian foods. $11

his two sons. It’s a new generation.

Wilhelm and sons

variety’s light residual sugar and lychee notes match well with Asian foods. $11 Pinot Blanc – Rheinhessen The bright apple notes, crisp acidity and dry finish make this Pinot Blanc a perfect aperitif or accompaniment to grilled chicken. $12 Undone Dry Riesling – Rheinhessen This dry Riesling comes from vineyards in the Rheinhessen and is perfect for enjoyment alone or with grilled fish. $11

Valckenberg was able to buy the vineyards

Undone Pinot Noir – Rheinhessen

around the Liebfrauenkirche in Worms.

Germany produces a lot of Pinot

The church property was founded by Capu-

Noir and this bargain shows the red

chin monks and the vineyard is more than

cherry and spice notes of the variety

500 years old. The wine from the vineyard,

at a remarkable price. $9

Liebfraumilch, was already being sold but

Dornfelder – Rheinhessen

Valckenberg began exporting the wine and

Dornfelder was relatively unknown a decade ago but is a big seller now for its deep red color and moderate

wine journal | 14

residual sugar. $10

WINES TO WATCH M E G H A N G U A R I N O • @ A B C W I N E C O U N T RY • M E G H A N G @ A B C F W S . C O M

E

very year, without fail, hundreds of wines are introduced to the

market. Whether they are from established Old World vineyards or new even to New World terrain, these wines find their way on the shelves of wine shops globally. And with a little luck, these bottles are opened and poured into the glass of someone who truly appreciates the terroir or the structure or the aromas the winemaker was really hoping to highlight.

most wine enthusiasts deem so crucial to a “good” wine: their sense of place.

It is these wines—wines of distinct coordinates and personality— that envelop palates across the globe, enticing them to try another bottle or sample a different varietal from the winery’s cellars.

What is most rewarding is when these wines are more than just “new.” When the wines come unexpected from an established

In some vintages, the wines may sway to one side of the fruit

winery or when they hail from an up-and-coming maker,

spectrum, emulating the flavors and body so characteristic of

they become wines to watch.

that year. In others, the terroir and weather open up and wineries take the opportunity to mold the flavors for a wine that boasts the personality of the winery, while maintaining the one characteristic

Año Verde Pinot Noir Santa Barbara, California $20

Haton Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne, France $37

Calonica Rosso di Montepulciano Tuscany, Italy $15

High Valley Sauvignon Blanc Lake County, California $15

B Chardonnay Lake County, California $15

Shannon Ridge High Elevation Zinfandel Lake County, California $13

This spring, explore several wines to watch with 10 bottles that are worth every grape smashed for their sake.

Navigator Red Napa Valley, California $17

Pellegrini Chardonnay Russian River Valley, California $22

Sant’Elena Pinot Grigio Friuli, Italy $19

Wagner Riesling Select Finger Lakes, New York $19 GET TASTING NOTES ON THIS WINE ON THE BACK COVER!

8989 South Orange Ave. Orlando, Florida 32824

WIN E

TO

WATCH:

Wagner Riesling Select ARO M A :

RIPE TROPICAL FRUIT AND SWEET HONEY VARIETA L:

Riesling FLAVOR:

Citrus, pineapple and honeysuckle with a delicate but crisp acidity wine journal | 16

B OD Y :

Silky and well-balanced C O LOR :

YELLOW APPLE HUES IN AN OTHERWISE CLEAR LIQUID FI NI S H:

Broad and open with a sweet edge R EGI ON :

FINGER LAKES, NEW YORK