october_real_life_dm
29.09.2008
13:48 Uhr
Page 58
REAL LIFE LEBENSART
was his instructor. He advised the young cook to try a new professional experience in Paris. Chef Claude Perraudin invited him and Benet obtained his gourmet fine-tuning over three years in the winter months. Parraudin was one member of the chefs gathering around Nouvelle Cuisine inventor Paul Bocuse in the 70s. Benet came back and started to raise rural Mallorcan cuisine to a new level in the 90s. He was further inspired by the inventive Catalan chef Ferran Adrià (three Michelin stars), one of the best cooks in the world. The mix of local agriculture and French cuisine is Benet´s trademark. He applies the latest preparation methods and uses original local products if possible. His father supplies
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aromatic spices, tomatoes, olives, lemons, oranges and cherries. In Fornalutx there´re 800 ancient olive trees on the soil of the Vicens finca. The taste of the olive oil produced there is “one of the core characteristics of my cuisine”, Benet confirms. Tomatoes from Banyalbufar, and zucchini, potatoes and chickpeas from Mallorca he thinks are unmatchable. Gaining a Michelin star himself is not his main target, although his creations fulfil the criteria by far, many experts say. Benet: “The Michelin jury demands formalisms. But we try to exclude any kind of strictness. The guests will feel at home in our restaurant. And overpriced food is not a synonym for quality.” If conceded he accepted the award,
however: “Michelin awards stars and withdraws them. One can hardly calculate with this.” All his staff members are sommeliers and maïtre d's. Their boss is Catalina Cifre, Benet´s wife since 1986. She helped her husband to modernize and establish the family restaurant. The Béns d´Avall is only open in summer season. Almost all the guests are regulars. Benet: “The seasonal business offers advantages, because one finds time for journeys and retraining in winter.” The Benet Auténtics delicatessen is a year-round company. Founder Benet benefits from his excellent pastry skills, possibly even exceeding his cooking skills. The basic idea for Benet Auténtics was bringing Béns d´Avall´s famous desserts to a broader market. The first pastry shop was opened in Sóller, attracting the visitor´s interest with a fancy interior design. Really special are the huge balloon lamps with a netted surface. “I wanted to create a both cosy and modernistic ambience, consistent with Sóller´s architecture,” Benet explains. Interior designer Gabriel Santos, Benet´s friend, and Miguel Capó realized the concept. The retail sales demanded luxury packaging. “Paradoxically the packing is the main reason for some high priced products,” Benet remarks. Soon he wants to put affordable “rural pralines” for sale. The concept of Benet Auténtics 2 in Son Rapinya is a little bit different. The company includes a shop for patisserie products and a home catering service for clients living in the noble district of Son Vida. Benet: “We accept advance orders for exquisite cakes and meals. Anyone having a visit at home or organizing a party needn´t go the supermarket and struggle in the kitchen. We prepare everything to the customer´s requirements and deliver if desired.” This business will soon be extended through a collaboration with Palma´s Menu catering. Menu will include the package called Béns d´Avall in the order list. Initially it will be offered at Sa Font Seca restaurant in Bunyola. Benet and Catalina have two sons. They help sometimes in their parents´ company, and study business management. It´s not so important for Benet whether they take over Béns d´Avall and Benet Auténtics one day: “We will see which vocation they choose. As long as I´m healthy I’ll steer the boat. I still have many projects in my mind.” Together with Menu´s director Joan Gual de Torrella he wants to found a cooking school in Palma. And he wants to write many books about Mallorcan cuisine: “One day I’ll make some time for this.”