Getting Started in Woodturning: Lathes and Turning Tools

getting started in woodturning

Lathes and Turning Tools Selected Readings from American Woodturner, Journal of the American Association of Woodturners

American Association of Woodturners 222 Landmark Center 75 5th St. W St. Paul, MN 55102-7704 877-595-9094 www.woodturner.org

Contents 3

Introduction The Editors

4

Shopping for Your First Lathe Brian Simmons

8

Get a Good Start at the Lathe Bob Rosand

12

Driving Centers Brian McEvoy

14

Faceplates Jim Rodgers

16

Sweet & Simple Chucking Strategies Peter M. Smith

19

Mastering the Four-Jaw Scroll Chuck Dick Gerard and Stan Wellborn

24 What Speed is Best?

Alan Lacer

26 A Guide to Gouges Joe Larese

31

Your First Bowl Gouge John Lucas

33 The Parting Tool Bob Rosand

36 Real Woodturners Do Use Scrapers Russ Fairfield

40 Learn to Sharpen All Your Turning Tools Alan Lacer

52 Grinder Wheels Bill Neddow Published by American Association of Woodturners, 222 Landmark Center, 75 5th St. W., St. Paul, MN 55102-7704.

877-595-9094, www.woodturner.org.

Copyright Š2013 American Association of Woodturners. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission. Readers may create any project for personal use or sale, and may copy patterns to assist them in making projects. The information in this book is presented in good faith; however, no warranty is given nor are results guaranteed. American Woodturner magazine and the American Association of Woodturners disclaim any and all liability.

57 Tuning and Aligning Your Lathe Jim Rodgers

60 Dream Machine Lathe Upgrades Kurt Bird

64 Small-Shop Space Savers Mark Evans

American Woodturner (ISSN 0895-9005) is published bimonthly

by American Association of Woodturners.

Lathes and Turning Tools ISBN 978-1-939662-02-6 Printed on Demand in United States of America American Association of Woodturners, www.woodturner.org

2

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Introduction

T

urning wood is a lot of fun when you’ve got the right equipment for your skill level and when you know how to sharpen it, maintain it, and get the most out of it.

Your first big decision is likely to be choosing and purchasing your first lathe.

It depends on your budget of course, but also on the scale and nature of the projects you’d like to tackle, and on the space you’ve got for a workshop.

Experienced turners agree that there is no perfect machine, but there likely is one that’s perfect for you at your current level of expertise. Along with a worksheet and a checklist of questions to ask yourself, this book includes expert shopping advice from experienced turning teachers as well as choices and sources you would not be likely to uncover on your own.

But that’s just the start, along with a lathe you will need turning tools, sharpening equipment, and work-holding accessories such as driving spurs and chucks.

The world of turning tools can be bewildering and confusing. At first glance, there’s not much difference between spindle gouges, detail gouges, roughing gouges and bowl gouges. But these small differences, though subtle, are hugely important to the tasks each tool can safely perform. And likewise for parting tools, skew chisels, and scrapers.

Sharpening equipment can be another jungle for the beginner. While sharp tools are absolutely essential to safe and effective woodturning, you can learn how to sharpen with very basic equipment – provided you have the right stuff, and that you take the time to learn how to use it.

The final ingredient in the stew is lathe accessories for holding and driving the wood on your machine. As with sharpening equipment, there is a ton of expensive stuff out there, and as your skills advance you’ll develop your own ideas about what you really need. But to begin, you can turn almost anything using simple drive centers or basic faceplates with the clever, time-tested work-holding strategies described here.

And last, or perhaps first, if you haven’t already done so, be sure to seek out and join a local chapter of the American Association of Woodturners. Armed with the information in this book and guided by the good advice you’ll get from fellow turners, you’re bound to succeed at the lathe.

Selected Readings from AW Journal From its founding in 1986, the American Association of Woodturners has published a regular journal of advice, information, and good fellowship for everyone interested in the field. Led by a series of dedicated editors and board members, the AW Journal has evolved to become American Woodturner magazine, now published in full color six times each year.

The AW Journal is a genuine treasure-trove of practical, shop-tested information written by woodturners for their fellow woodturners. Lathes and Turning Tools is the second volume in an on-going series being extracted from this archive. Lathes and Turning Tools is available as a 64-page printed book, or as a PDF download that is readable on all your electronic devices.

Safe woodturning is fun woodturning. A little time spent with this book will help you build strong skills at the lathe while teaching you best woodturning practices.

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3

Shopping for Your First Lathe Brian Simmons

B

5. What is my budget?

The first two questions are usually the hardest to answer, especially if you’re a novice turner.

If you’ve just caught the turning bug (or plan to become infected), it can be difficult to know what type and size pieces you will be turning now and in the future. However, the answers to these two questions will heavily influence your decisionmaking on the next three questions.

I encourage prospective lathe buyers to reflect on these first questions and not answer hastily. Start by considering why you became interested in turning. For example, did you admire some bowls or hollow forms at the art gallery, or do you want to make components for a rocking chair? Are you thinking of making Christmas gifts for friends and family this year? Begin a project wish list, and also note the size of finished items.

Expand your search for prospective turning ideas by going to the library, surfing the Internet, and studying the instant gallery of the works of fellow

uying a lathe—especially if it’s your first—can be a confusing and difficult task. However, if you take the time to answer a few questions, you’ll have a much better understanding of your needs. And when you have a good focus on the type and scale of projects you want to turn, your research will narrow down the field of lathes to a manageable number of choices.

Five questions, many possible answers Before rushing to the lathe manufacturers’ websites, begin your search by answering five questions: 1. What types of things do I enjoy turning? For example, you may enjoy making bowls, hollow forms, spindles, gift items, or other projects.

2. What is the size of the pieces I’ll be turning? Be specific in both diameter and length.

3. How much space will I dedicate to this machine? Don’t forget to also allocate space for storage of tools and lathe accessories.

4. Will I need to move the lathe often?

members at the next meeting of your woodturning chapter. Again, take notes about items you might like to make one day, but also identify projects that don’t spark your interest.

By writing down likes and dislikes (pluses and minuses), you’ll establish the boundaries of your personal woodturning interests.

One size doesn’t fit all Most experienced turners agree that there is no perfect lathe. Every machine is designed to perform specific tasks, and that gives it a range of both strengths and weaknesses.

In some ways, choosing a lathe is similar to shopping for a vehicle: A compact car may offer good mileage, but it won’t tow a boat.

In a similar way, some lathes offer an incredibly low price while others offer top-of-the-line quality. (Bear in mind that precision machining and quality control significantly influence price.) You can easily move many small lathes, but these tools typically lack the ability to handle large or heavy pieces. Some lathes

Lathe Decision-Making Chart As you evaluate each lathe, assign it a number from 1 to 5 in each category, with a larger number reflecting a closer match with your needs.

Make /Model

Has swing and length to meet my needs

Fits into available shop space

Ease of moving (if required)

Price

Total score

AW 23:4, p52

Lathe

Will handle projects that interest me

4 • SHOPPING FOR YOUR FIRST LATHE

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Driving Centers Brian McEvoy

A

Four-prong center

Two-prong center

Stubby screw-on center

A two-prong center works well with natural-edge bowls. It will seat deeper into the wood than a fourprong center. Additionally, it allows for easier repositioning of the bowl blank. Two prongs offer half the holding power of four, however, so when aggressive cuts are made, it can quickly become a drill bit.

The heavy-duty 2" (50 mm) Stubby brand screw-on center screws onto the lathe spindle. It is ideal for starting medium or large bowls or mounting hollow forms between centers. The spurs can be removed for regrinding or replacement. The drive center can be used with two or four spurs. To suit either hard or soft timber, the center point is easily adjustable by loosening the setscrew and it can also be reground or replaced. The sheer size of this drive offers superior holding pressure. Because the spurs can be reground, this drive has a big advantage over conventional four-prong drives, in particular when working with hard woods.

Oneway Mfg.’s safe-drive centers are ideal for beginning turners when safety is the prime concern. The safe-drive center provides sufficient grip, depending on the amount of tailstock pressure applied. Designed for nonaggressive turning, the beauty is that the workpiece will slip or stop if a catch occurs. The spring-loaded center point and circular design of the end prevents splitting the work piece.

These drives work very well for their AW 26:3, p24

Oneway Mfg. safe-drive center

s is the case with most woodturning tools, devices for holding wood onto the lathe have evolved considerably, especially in the past fifteen years. Faceplates, chucks, and drive centers have all come a long way. Drive centers, as simple as they may seem, are varied and their use is often not fully understood. While I was going through my toolbox, pulling out different drive centers accumulated over the course of twenty-five years of turning, I had good and not so good memories of some of those tools. The innovators who have developed new and, in many cases, improved tools have made our lives easier and safer while working with the lathe. All drives work well in some situations. Variables such as timber hardness, size, and shape all come into play.

The four-prong center is the most common center and is supplied with most lathes. The adjustable center point makes it ideal for all timber densities. The four sharp prongs are designed to bite into the wood. Whether turning spindles or forming the outside of bowls, this type of drive center is effective with softer timbers. The four-prong center is a good all-around method of holding between-center work.

The downside is that it will not penetrate into hard woods as deeply as you might like. As a result, light cuts will be necessary.

12 • DRIVING CENTERS

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Get a Good Start at the Lathe Bob Rosand

Sharpening

1

What grit do you recommend for sharpening tools?

Pitch the gray wheels that accompany most grinders and sharpen with a 60- or 80-grit aluminum oxide wheel. Although others advocate honing, I find it unnecessary for most woods and projects I turn. I go directly from the sharpening wheel to the lathe.

Over the years, I’ve discovered that a Oneway diamond-tip wheel

1 Regular use of a wheel dresser will true your wheel and expose fresh grinding surfaces.

8 • GET A GOOD START AT THE LATHE

dresser tears up the wheel less than a star wheel dresser. If used properly, the diamond-tip dresser prepares a true wheel and your lathe tool will not bounce (a problem with handheld dressers).

2

What speed grinder do you recommend?

Instead of the better-known 3,500rpm grinder for general woodworking, I prefer to sharpen lathe tools with a 1,725-rpm grinder, sometimes referred to as a slow-speed grinder.

The slow-speed grinder removes metal at a slower rate and allows me to work with the edge of the tool a bit (it’s also more forgiving of errors). When I first started turning, I shortened the life of many tools by attempting to sharpen at 3,500 rpm.

Don’t make the same mistake.

3

Should I buy a sharpening jig or should I learn freehand sharpening?

I often repeat Bonnie Klein’s answer: “If you turn a lot, you probably don’t

need a grinding jig. But if you only turn a couple of days a week, it’s well worth it.”

I’ll go one step further: Even though I learned freehand sharpening first (jigs weren’t commonly available then), I now use a sharpening jig all the time.

If you use a jig for sharpening, keep in mind that it will not sharpen the tool for you and you still need to know what you want the grind to look like.

4

I just want to turn.

Why is sharpening so important?

John Jordan has popularized this saying: “If you can’t sharpen, you can’t turn.” I think that John is absolutely right. You’ll never become a proficient turner without first learning to sharpen your tools. And it’s not only about speed and proficiency: A dull tool is far more dangerous than a sharp tool.

Before you get too excited about turning, I suggest investing a few hours of time (and money, if necessary) standing shoulder to shoulder with an expert sharpener.

AW 23:3, p50

P

eople just getting started in turning usually have as many questions as a new runner hoping to finish a 5k race: • What’s the best chuck on the market?

• What kind of tools should I buy?

• What grit is best for sharpening?

• Should I buy a sharpening jig?

• What’s the best way to sand?

If you teach or demonstrate frequently, you’ve heard all these questions many times over.

3 If you don’t turn frequently, a sharpening jig may become your best friend.

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