Via | March+April 2020 by Via magazine | AAA Mountain West Group

Cruising up the coast in an EV

MARCH+APRIL 2020

The

magic of Monterey Celebrating 250 years of a California classic

Springtime in Sutter Creek

Protect your home and your wallet. Go green and stay ahead of danger with the latest technology from AAA Smart Home.

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Editorial

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Dan Miller MANAGING EDITOR Whitney Phaneuf SENIOR EDITOR Megan McCrea

Explore a

EVENTS EDITOR Ethan Fletcher CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Avital Andrews,

rocky reef, the Amazon, and outer space

Katie Henry, Rebecca Smith Hurd

Design + Production

DESIGN DIRECTOR Monica Ewing Jensen PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Amy Mackey ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Veronica Sooley PHOTO EDITOR Maggie Perkins

—all in one day

Digital

EXECUTIVE DIGITAL PRODUCER Rebecca Harper DIGITAL MARKETING STRATEGIST Valerie St. John SOCIAL MEDIA Arthur Ilasco

Advertising

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Ted Welch ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Linda Black,

Bruce Colton, Kevin McCaw, Mike Walker ADVERTISING COORDINATOR Natasha Alcalá ADVERTISING ACCOUNTING William Nocera 2,474,755 COPIES Subscription rate: AAA

primary members, $2 (included in dues). Change of address: Allow four weeks’ advance notice. Contact AAA at (800) 922-8228. Manuscripts and photos: Query ﬁrst; Via assumes no responsibility for return of unsolicited material. Reprints from Via: Contents copyrighted 2020 AAA Northern California, Nevada & Utah. No part of Via may be reprinted without written permission. Contact Via Editorial: Address all mail to Via, AAA, P.O. Box 24502, Oakland, CA 94623, or viamail@via magazine.com. Contact Via Advertising: Address all mail to Via Advertising, AAA, P.O. Box 24502, Oakland, CA 94623. Fax (510) 899-0525. Via (ISSN 1093-1716) is published four times a year, in March, May, September, and November by AAA Northern California, Nevada & Utah, 1277 Treat Blvd., Suite 1000, Walnut Creek, CA 94597. Periodicals Postage: Paid at Walnut Creek, CA, and at additional mailing ofﬁces. Postmaster: Send address changes to Via, AAA, P.O. Box 24512, Oakland, CA 94623.

The world’s only aquarium + planetarium + rainforest + living museum. For tickets, buy online at AAA.com/calacademy, visit your local branch, or call 888-890-2470.

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SFI-00993 COVER AND BODY PRINTED ON SFI-CERTIFIED PAPER.

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1/30/20 4:40 PM

CONTENTS

March+April 2020 / Vol. 141 / No. 2

The scenic drive to Oregon’s Mount McLoughlin. Page 28.

FE AT U R E S

D E PA R T M E N T S

28 The Road to Electric

4 To Our Members

20 Weekender

6 Community

21 Smart Guide

Electric vehicles are here, and more are on the way. But are they ready for a good long road trip? by b r a d l e y b e r m a n

34 The Sustainable

Traveler

Here’s how to minimize the environmental impact of your next vacation. by m a n d y f e r r e i r a

DAVID H. COLLIER

36 The Magic of Monterey A weekend stroll around the classically Californian city reveals 250 years of history and a slew of modern treasures. by p e t e r f i s h

Improved roadside assistance, smarter home security, and more.

Why you should put down the electronics (and food) when you get behind the wheel.

8 AAA Insider

Five ways to unlock more value from your Membership.

Sutter Creek embodies the laidback spirit of the Sierra foothills.

Sixteen ways to green your home this spring.

48 #ViaAdventure

Southern Utah’s Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park is a wonderland of wind-sculpted sand.

11 Smart Life

Where to frolic in wildflowers; when to use a travel agent; how to update your security system.

16 On the Road

Awe-inspiring waterfalls; San Francisco’s hidden photo trove; pizza pies that rise above.

ON THE COVER Long after the sardine industry faded, tourism revived Monterey’s Old Fisherman’s Wharf. Page 36. Cover photograph by David H. Collier A A A | VIA

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TO OUR MEMBERS

Making life easier, smarter, greener

TIM CONDON, PRESIDENT & CEO

Connect with us AAA.com/ facebook Instagram .com/aaa_via AAA.com/ twitter

Share your thoughts Send comments, tips, or questions to viamail@via magazine.com or Via, AAA, P.O. Box 24502, Oakland, CA 94623. Your input may be edited and published in print or online.

JEFF XANDER

Spring is here—time to put away winter wardrobes and venture outside, to think about cleaning out the garage, and to plan summer travels. It’s also a good time to think of fresh ways you can “outsmart life,” to eliminate roadblocks and make your days easier and more rewarding. AAA is here to help you do just that. For example, I encourage you to look into our new AAA Smart Home security and homeautomation services (AAA.com/SmarterHome), which keep your home safe and protected from potential intruders. Our experts will assess your needs and install the system that’s right for you. If you live in or near Phoenix, Tucson, the San Francisco Bay Area, or Sacramento, you can now get the peace of mind that AAA Smart Home delivers. Another example of how AAA can help you on the road of life: our legendary roadside service, which is getting a big boost this year by adding more tow trucks and service vehicles and putting them where they are needed most. We’re accomplishing this by adopting new predictive technologies that help map when and where incidents are most likely to occur and using that data to position our trucks accordingly. As a result, we’re able to respond to your calls for assistance more quickly. Using our AAA Mobile app can help optimize response times; we’ve recently deployed features in the app to improve the user experience, including real-time location updates when your service technician is en route. Since it’s spring, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention one of the ways AAA can help you live greener: our Gig Car Share service in the San Francisco Bay Area and Sacramento (gigcarshare.com). Gig gives you access to a fleet of environmentally friendly hybrid (or, in Sacramento, all-electric) vehicles for journeys near and far. Borrowing a car is easy and affordable, with fuel, insurance, and parking included. All you need to do is download the Gig app, find a nearby vehicle, and then get in and go! AAA Members save 10 percent on every Gig trip. You’ll find plenty of other ideas for living smarter (and greener) in the pages that follow, as well as online at AAA.com/via. So spring to it and enjoy the longer, warmer days ahead. And, as always, thanks for the privilege of serving you. ba.

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It tells you something about the scope and persistence of the problem that, for the 10th year in a row, April is Distracted Driving Awareness Month. According to the most recent AAA Traffic Safety Culture Index, more than half of drivers (52 percent) say they’ve talked on a handheld cell phone while driving at least once in the past 30 days. More than 41 percent admit they’ve read texts, and 32 percent say they’ve written them. And people know it’s wrong: Almost all drivers (96 percent) say they believe reading or sending texts or emails while driving is very or extremely dangerous; roughly 80 percent say the same about talking on a handheld phone. Most drivers support laws against distracted driving. “There is a disconnect between what drivers do and what they believe,” says Michelle Donati, government and public affairs lead for

AAA. “Most recognize the dangers created by taking your eyes off the road, yet they engage in distracting behaviors anyway.” Cell phones aren’t the only hazards. Children, pets, and your car’s built-in navigation or entertainment systems can all take your focus away from the road ahead. So what’s to be done? ● Don’t text, email, talk on the phone, or go online while you’re driving. ● Set your GPS, seat, mirrors, climate controls, and sound systems before you start to drive. ● Secure pets and loose possessions that could move around. Make sure children are safely strapped into their seats.

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AAA INSIDER

Beyond the tow truck Ask AAA Members why they joined, and the top response will be “emergency road service.” No surprise there: For less than $5 a month, you can get a tow, a jump start, a tirechange, an emergency refueling, even a new battery, whenever and wherever you need it. You’re covered in any car, whether you’re the driver or a passenger. Get an insurance quote. Next time you’re reviewing your insurance coverage, take a moment to call AAA. Members get a special 5 percent discount on auto, home, and life coverage. Request a quote at AAA.com/ insurance.

Book a trip.

Before you make vacation plans, speak with a Complimentary Travel Agent at AAA. You’ll get a best-price guarantee from our travel partners, plus extras such as gift cards at Disneyland and onboard credits on cruises. See AAA.com/travel for details.

But ask Members if they’ve taken advantage of all the other benefits and services that come with AAA, and the answer from many will be “not yet.” Whether you’ve been a Member for decades or you just joined the club, here are five things you can do right now to unlock more value from your Membership.

Rent a car.

AAA Members who rent from Hertz get a 20 percent discount on the rental fee, and they aren’t charged for child seats and adding qualified drivers. Book a rental at AAA.com/hertz.

These days, identity theft is a significant risk. Fight back by signing up for a free account with ProtectMyID (from Experian and AAA). You get credit monitoring, help with fraud resolution, and more. Go to AAA.com/ protectID.

Set it, forget it.

Keep your AAA benefits flowing by signing up for automatic renewal. You’ll never have to worry about being stranded on the road or fear missing out on everything else that comes with Membership. Sign up at AAA .com/enroll.

The official AAA Mobile app is superhandy when you’re on the road, and now it’s even better. It already tells you where to find the least expensive gas and AAA discounts nearby. Now, when you request Emergency Road Service through the app, it’ll show you where the truck is on a map and tell you its estimated arrival time. Download the app by going to AAA .com/mobile.

LEFT TO RIGHT: SVEN HANSCHE / SHUTTERSTOCK; ASTAROT / SHUTTERSTOCK; DEN ROZHNOVSKY / SHUTTERSTOCK

Building a better app

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Kauai Oahu Maui

4 choices. No wrong answer. Hawaii

Book your 2020 Hawaiian escape by April 30 and get: $125 airfare credit | $100 activity voucher Get these exclusive perks plus our Best Price Guarantee when you book with AAA. Use your activity voucher and choose from more than 900 experiences, including a luau, a snorkeling cruise or helicopter tour, a submarine excursion and more. When it comes to enjoying your Hawaiian vacation, every choice is a good choice.

Visit AAA.com/alohadays or call 888-996-4222

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Purple lupines pop up in early spring.

Smart Life SMART LIST

5 things to do now

Spring brings longer days, perfect for clearing out the cobwebs of winter from your home and garden. your favorite bloom. 1 Find Welcome peak wildflower

VORONIN76 / SHUTTERSTOCK

season with our guide on where to go. Discover the West’s top spots to frolic in fields of desert marigolds, purple lupines, wild hyacinths, milkmaids, and California poppies at AAA .com/wildflowers.

on your taxes. 2 Save Dreading your annual

check-in with Uncle Sam? AAA can help, with savvy ways to prepare for filing, tips for trimming the fat on everyday expenses, and a $20 discount on TurboTax. Learn more at AAA.com/taxes.

your neighbors. 3 Meet Join your community for

the 50th anniversary of Earth Day on Apr. 22. To find out what’s happening in your city or region, visit earthday.org.

up your home. 4 Spruce Winter weather can wreak

havoc on landscaping, walkways, and more. Now is the time to pressure wash filthy siding and repair or replace broken paving stones, railings, or roof shingles. Test sprinklers to make sure heads are functioning and water sprays on your lawn, not your windows.

your auto repairs. 5 Track Taking your car in for

maintenance can be tedious, but it just got easier. AAA owned and operated Auto Repair Centers offer a completely digital vehicle inspection experience, including a detailed report with photos sent by text or email. The center will even note what work your car may need in the future. Learn more at AAA.com/DVI.

A A A | VIA

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SMART LIFE

You need help with hiccups. Say your flight is delayed and your cruise ship leaves without you. Or you get sick and can’t continue with your trip. If you booked online, good luck making changes or reaching a customer service agent. “We’re with you for your entire journey,” says AAA Travel counselor Tonya Powell. “So if anything goes wrong—beginning, middle or end—help is just a phone call away.”

TRAVEL

When to use a travel agent Sure, you could plan and book a trip yourself. But there are times when it really pays to hire a professional.

These days, you can book some basic travel reservations online. But figuring out where to go, how to get there, and what to do once you’ve arrived can take more time than the trip itself. That’s why the expertise of a travel professional can still be indispensable. When should you rely on such assistance? Here are a few of the reasons you should consider calling an agent. You want the inside scoop. The Internet is great for finding low prices. It’s not so great at giving you the lowdown. No matter where you’re going, odds are that a travel agent has been there, done that—or knows someone who has. “You might think you have a great deal on a hotel, but it turns out it’s not in a prime location, so you wind up spending extra on transportation,” says AAA Travel product marketer Roberta Christman. With their insider info, travel counselors can ensure that the vacation you want is the one you really get.

You like value-adds and perks. A voucher for a luau in Hawaii. A guided walking tour when your European river cruise comes to port. A room with priority check-in. Because they book so many trips and have close relationships with so many clients, travel pros have access to complimentary add-ons that you’d never get online. You don’t like surprises. When you book online, hidden expenses such as daily resort fees or seat-change charges can jump up and bite you. “You might not know about that $40a-day resort fee,” says AAA Travel counselor Ron Heisler. “On a 10-day vacation, that’s another $400 you didn’t budget for.” You value your time. Doing your own travel planning can be deeply satisfying, but it can also be really time-consuming. “This is our job,” Heisler says. “We do it all day long. There’s a very good chance we can match or beat whatever deals you’ve found online. And you won’t have to deal with the busywork.” — j o s h s e n s

↘ Want to plan a trip? AAA Travel can help you chart a course for your next vacation. Visit AAA.com/travel or call (877) 835-2233.

IAN SHIVE / TANDEM STOCK

Worry about logistics less, and enjoy Florence more.

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Guide Front Cover

uide Front Cover

SMART LIFE

GROVE

st Guide PACIFIC GROVE

Your old security system might not be that secure.

Monterey Peninsula

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It’s not enough to have an alarm system: Be sure its technology is up to date.

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Congratulations! You have a security system installed in your home, and you’re actually using it. (It’s shocking how many people have alarms but don’t turn them on.) But is that active system really doing all it could to keep you safe? For example, some older systems are susceptible to replay attacks: The sensors around your house periodically send signals back to the system’s central unit to say that all is well. Thieves can use simple gizmos to capture those communications and play them back to the central unit—while they take the opportunity to break in. As far as your system is concerned, nothing’s amiss. Modern systems prevent such attacks by encrypting the messages between sensors and the central unit. But older security systems, notes Brandon Strand, head of product and marketing for AAA Smart Home, are not generally protected with encryption.

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“Hackers can more easily break into your home if the system doesn’t use encryption,” Strand says. “Ask your security provider whether your system has encryption, and consider upgrading if the answer is no.” Modern systems also offer greater convenience. For example, some newer systems can be set up to automatically disarm when you’re close to home, so you don’t have to rush to punch in a code when you walk in the door. They can sync with smart-home systems to automatically lock the door after you leave or turn on the lights when you return. And many of them are compatible with smart-speaker systems such as Siri, Alexa, or Google Assistant. AAA Smart Home recommends talking to your homesecurity provider. “Maintenance can go a long way toward ensuring a longer-lasting system,” Strand says. “Schedule an inspection every two or three years to check signal quality and change batteries on the sensors. And ask your technician how you might get more out of your system.”

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AAA Smart Home’s security and automation services, call (866) 769-7671, or go to AAA.com/ SmarterHome to get a quote and confirm availability in your area.

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On the Road

↘ Revel in the roar, the spray, and the aweinspiring power.

“Each spring, Grand Falls, a waterfall on Navajo Nation land near Leupp, Ariz., comes roaring to life. It’s truly a sight to behold—higher than Niagara Falls!” — j e n n i f e r a n d d e a n t u to r “Multnomah Falls, outside Portland, is breathtakingly lovely. I first saw it as a child, and I’m amazed by its power to endure gracefully through the seasons and years.” — c h a r l e s e i t e lg eo r g e “The trail to Lower Calf Creek Falls, in Utah’s Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument, winds through a canyon past archaeological sites.

When you arrive, you can relax on the beach and watch the cascading water. Absolutely beautiful.” — b r i a n w i ls o n “One of the most glorious waterfalls I’ve seen is Fall Creek Falls, near Swan Valley, Idaho. It’s really lovely in fall, when the rushing water, snowcapped peaks, and autumn colors lift my spirit to levels of pure joy.” — e d r i c h e “I find myself returning again and again to Burney Falls, northeast of Redding, Calif. I love it because you can sit near the falls, feel the spray, and simply watch in awe.” — n a n cy h u l l “From afar, the Lower Falls in Wyoming’s Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone looks like a white ribbon of water tinged with emerald streaks. Walk to the lookout point at the Brink

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BROOKE FITTS

Wondrous waterfalls

“It takes effort to reach Darwin Falls, but once you get there, you’re rewarded with a gushing waterfall in the heart of Southern California’s Death Valley National Park.” — j e f f pa n t h e r

NICK LAKE / TANDEM STOCK

MEMBERS’ FAVORITES

“Sahalie Falls, not far from Sisters, Ore., shows off the best of the Pacific Northwest: moss-blanketed rocks, old-growth trees, a pristine river. In summer, it’s a respite from the heat; in winter, the ice sculptures formed by the mist are magical.” —jennie daniels

TASTES

Superb slices ↘ Pizza that’s worth driving long distances for. Road trip, anyone? Crust, sauce, and cheese. Cooks worldwide have been playing on that delightful, delicious combo for centuries. Chefs across the western United States are no exception, serving up innovative pies from Seattle to Phoenix. With dim lighting and the day’s specials hand-scrawled in neon marker on a mirror behind the bar, Dino’s Tomato Pie might call to mind a roadside dive. But don’t be fooled: This joint in Seattle’s Capitol Hill neighborhood dishes up some of the best square Sicilian-style pizza this side of New Jersey. Belly up to the bar for a hot salami pie with crispy edges. ●

of Lower Falls, and you can feel the sheer power.” — j o n h i p p e n s t i e l “When Montana’s Highway 38 opens in early summer, I head for Skalkaho Falls, between Hamilton and Philipsburg. The gushing torrent makes for a dramatic photo op.” — d av i d d o r i a “In June 1960, my husband and I honeymooned in California’s Yosemite National Park. As we drove in, there before us was a very full Bridalveil Fall, helping us to celebrate. Unforgettable.”

Last summer, San Francisco foodies rejoiced when Thomas McNaughton, the James Beard

●

Award–nominated chef-owner of Flour+Water, opened Flour+ Water Pizzeria on the city’s buzzy Valencia corridor. Expanding on the flagship eatery’s limited selections, the menu offers red pies (sausage, olives, mozzarella, rosemary) and white (potato, garlic confit, black truffled pecorino). Over the past 20 or so years, Phoenix’s Pizzeria Bianco has become legend. These days, diners routinely wait two hours or more to sink their teeth into a slice of Chris Bianco’s pizza. The artisanal pies feature local ingredients and mozzarella made in-house. Staples of the eatery’s six-pizza menu include a Biancoverde made with ricotta cheese and arugula. ●

When a pie ranks second in the International Pizza Challenge’s nontraditional category, you’ve got to try it. You can find it at When In Rome in Bigfork and Kalispell, Mont. Originally made in error, the combo—pepperoni, red onions, roasted red peppers, garlic, and Gorgonzola cheese—was declared “best pizza ever” by the restaurant’s staffers. — t r i n a e n r i q u e z

●

It’s hip to be square at Dino’s Tomato Pie.

NE X T Q UES TION BROOKE FITTS

NICK LAKE / TANDEM STOCK

— j o a n h a m i lto n

What is your favorite place in the West to see fall color, and why do you love it?

↘ Email us at otr@viamagazine.com. You may be quoted in a future issue. A A A | VIA

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ON THE ROAD

Pier 24 Photography lies low by the Bay Bridge.

DETOUR

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Step inside Pier 24 Photography, a 28,000-square-foot warehouse turned museum on San Francisco’s Embarcadero, and it may seem you’ve stumbled into a cool underground club—for art. The beige, single-story building’s exterior looks unassuming, but its interior holds one of the nation’s largest museums dedicated to photography. The space is divided into quiet, dimly lit rooms that showcase the Pilara Foundation’s collection of works by emerging and established photographers. No labels accompany the mounted photos, which can range from Polaroids to muralsize prints, leaving you to take in the images without a filter. And, because visiting is free, by appointment, and on weekdays only, you’re practically guaranteed a pure art experience—without jostling crowds. The rotating exhibits vary from street photography to found images altered by artists to create something new. Catch Looking Back: Ten Years of Pier 24 Photography before it closes Apr. 30. Regardless of the exhibit, the museum always delivers an intimate, visceral experience. —t r i n a e n r i q u e z

CHARLES VILLYARD / PIER 24

Hidden pictures

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Save on the car rental and spend more on what matters most. My AAA member benefits* allow me to enjoy vacation even more. Additional Driver $67.50 $0 with Hertz Child seat $69.95 $0 with Hertz Plus, I used my exclusive AAA members rate.

Click: AAA.com/hertz | Call: 1-800-654-3080 | Visit: Your local AAA branch * Discount will vary depending on location, date, length of rental and other factors. Benefits available at participating locations in the U.S. and Canada. AAA CDP# must be included in reservation. Advance reservations required. Additional Driver must be a AAA member and meet standard rental requirements. Savings based on a five (5) day rental. Taxes and fees excluded. © 2020 Hertz System, Inc. All rights reserved. CS 1119101

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ON THE ROAD

WEEKENDER

Sutter Creek, California ↘ Spring is the perfect time to head to the Sierra foothills for wildflowers, history, and wine country cuisine.

Housed in a former Gold Rush–era saloon, Feist Wines is a great place to taste the foothills terroir, with a focus on zinfandels and an in-demand barbera. The tasting room offers a small menu, including charcuterie and wood-fired pizzas; the walls are festooned with posters for westerns scripted by James R. Webb, the owner’s grandfather. ●

Catch a glimpse of the workings of mother lode mining at the Kennedy Gold Mine, between Sutter Creek and Jackson. Over the course of its 82 active years, the mine bored 5,912 feet into the earth and produced roughly $34 million in gold. On weekends from

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top: One of the original tailing wheels—which carried mining debris away from Jackson Creek—at the Kennedy Gold Mine. bottom: Challah French toast with fruit and citrus cream at Element.

March through October, guests tour surviving surface structures, including the office where melted gold was poured into ingots and the change room where miners were given body searches for hidden flakes. The 147-year-old Knight Foundry is home to one

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of the last water-powered forges in the United States. During monthly tours, the machine shop’s line shafts and antique lathes whir back to life. Visitors can also watch molten aluminum being poured into custom molds, and take home a cast piece. With open-hearth cooking, regional craft beer, and American roots music,

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Sutter Creek Provisions

attracts a lively crowd. Cowboy-hatted musicians serenade audiences from the stage while chef Tim Blankenship, at work in the outdoor kitchen, serves up an ever-changing roster of eats, ranging from smoked chicken tacos to charred broccoli with miso romesco. — ga r r i c k r a m i r e z

TOP: CAROLYN FOX; BOTTOM: DAVID H. COLLIER

With a look that leans more metropolitan than mining camp, the brunch spot Element Restaurant serves up a custardy challah French toast and a chard frittata “waffle” accompanied by homemade maplesage sausages. A monthly dinner series features seasonal plates such as lamb with a pistachio-mint crust.

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ALTRENDO IMAGES / SHUTTERSTOCK

Smart Guide → Greening your home This spring—which marks the 50th anniversary of Earth Day— do more than clean your home: Make it greener by reducing waste, toxic chemicals, and energy use. Here’s a room-byroom guide to living more sustainably. Bonus: Many of these solutions can also save you money. by av i ta l a n d r e ws

FEED YOUR GARDEN Instead of throwing out those food scraps, toss them in a compost pile, where they can turn into fertile soil. A A A | VIA

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SMART GUIDE

Seal drafts. Does your home have adequate insulation? If not, it’s costing you extra on your utility bills. Hire a professional to crawl into your attic and check. A pro can also find drafts around doors and windows and suggest needed repairs. (If you live in California’s Alameda or Contra Costa Counties, AAA House Manager can help with this.)

4. Unplug vampires. “Vampire appliances”—those that draw power even when they aren’t in use—can account for more than 20 percent of home electricity consumption. Chief culprits may include your TV, stereo system, cable box, game console, laptop, printer, microwave, toaster oven, coffeemaker, and blow-dryer. The solution: Unplug them when they’re not in use. To simplify things, plug them into power strips with on/off switches.

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LEFT: HADEL PRODUCTIONS / ISTOCK; RIGHT: HOLLYHARRY / SHUTTERSTOCK

1. Turn down the heat (or AC). For maximum efficiency, keep your thermostat no higher than 68 degrees in winter and no lower than 78 in summer. Lower the temperature when everyone is sleeping and turn off the air or heat when no one is home. You can save 10 percent on your heating bill by turning the thermostat down 10 to 15 degrees for the eight hours when many of us are out of the house each day. Better yet, invest in a smart device, like the one from Google Nest, to control your indoor climate intelligently. “A programmable thermostat can be both energy efficient and a money saver for you,” says Michelle Galvez, a spokesperson for AAA House Manager. “But you can’t just set it and forget it. Make sure that the times and temperatures you enter into it are right for your lifestyle.”

Get smarter bulbs. Switching five of your home’s most heavily used lights from traditional incandescent bulbs to Energy Star–certified CFLs, LEDs, or halogens can cut energy use by up to 80 percent and save the average household $75 annually. These newer types also last up to 25 times longer than standard bulbs. Using a smart-home system to intelligently control your lights can save you even more money.

LEFT: COURTESY GOOGLE NEST; RIGHT: MARTIAPUNTS / ISTOCK

Around the house

Go solar. Yes, solar panels

LEFT: HADEL PRODUCTIONS / ISTOCK; RIGHT: HOLLYHARRY / SHUTTERSTOCK

LEFT: COURTESY GOOGLE NEST; RIGHT: MARTIAPUNTS / ISTOCK

are a big investment—the average rooftop system will initially set you back around $12,500 after tax credits— but they’re also one of the greenest moves you can make. Solar energy accounts for less than 2 percent of U.S. electricity generation but offsets over 70 million metric tons of carbon dioxide per year, the equivalent of planting more than 1 billion trees. Just 1,000 watts of energy generated from solar panels—

the amount it takes to power a plasma TV for three hours or run the dishwasher for an hour—saves 150 pounds of mined coal, 300 pounds of carbon emissions, and 105 gallons of water. Consider these factors: The price of home solar has dropped 70 percent over the last 10 years. Solar panels increase your home value by more than 4 percent (and can help your house sell faster). Most homeowners break even within seven years and then can save more than $20,000 over the next 20. Going solar really does make sense.

7. Let the sunshine in (or not). Window treatments are an effective way to conserve energy. “Thermal insulated curtains are growing in popularity,” says AAA House Manager’s Michelle Galvez. “Not only do they look nice, but they help keep homes energy efficient by blocking out the summer sun and keeping in the warmth.”

Kitchen 8. Waste less. Americans throw away up to 40 percent of the food they buy. To cut down on your contribution, try to buy only what you need, cook only what you’ll eat, and freeze or otherwise preserve as much as possible. Get in the habit of composting food scraps, too. If your local waste management service offers curbside composting, use it; otherwise, set up a simple home-composting system and turn those food scraps into potting soil. You can also reduce the amount of food packaging you toss. Buy minimally packaged foods, forgo single-use items, and store bulk items in reusable bags or sealed jars.

Check your heater. Maintaining your HVAC system is important if you’re aiming for a greener home. Get a pro to inspect yours and clean or change filters as needed. (A membership with AAA House Manager can come in handy here. Its service technicians can perform such inspections along with routine maintenance chores.)

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SMART GUIDE

Bathroom 11. Wipe wisely. The world kills 27,000 trees per day—nearly 9 million per year—just to make toilet paper. The United States consumes more toilet tissue per capita than any other country. Recycled papers that rate well for their eco-merits include Seventh Generation and the Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s brands.

10. Rethink your diet. Eating plants is easier on the planet than eating animals. Producing a pound of beef generates more greenhouse gases than burning a gallon of gas in your car. If Americans cut their con-

sumption of animal products by half, the food industry’s water use would decrease by 37 percent. Planning meatless Mondays is an easy way to start.

LEFT: THAMKC / SHUTTERSTOCK; RIGHT: FUNNY SOLUTION STUDIO / SHUTTERSTOCK

Clean green. Many commercial cleaning products contain toxins—bleach, petroleum distillates, phosphates, and more—that can hurt the environment when you pour them down the drain. Try a natural solution instead: One part vinegar to three parts water makes an effective all-purpose cleaning spray. Or look for biofriendly alternatives. Trustworthy brands include Clorox’s Green Works, Dr. Bronner’s, Method, Mrs. Meyer’s Clean Day, and Seventh Generation. Be sure to recycle the plastic bottles when they’re empty.

Don’t be a drip. Living in the drought-prone West means it’s extra crucial to treat the region’s fluid resources with care. To save water in the bathroom, install aerators on your sink faucets and swap your old showerheads for low-flow models. Turn off the tap while you’re brushing your teeth or shaving: This alone can save 3,000 gallons annually. And take shorter showers; use a timer to keep yourself honest.

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Great coverage. Great service. Even greater savings.

Helping protect your car, home, and family is just the start of the many ways we can help you live life smarter. With a variety of coverages to fit your needs and budget, get greater peace of mind with AAA Insurance. AAA.com/autoinsurance1 | Call 844-298-1527 | Visit your local branch

Insurance products in California offered through AAA Northern California Insurance Agency, License #0175868, in Nevada by AAA Nevada, in Utah by AAA Utah, in Arizona through AAA Arizona, Inc., License #8301727, Montana through AAA Montana, Inc., License #9756, and in Wyoming through AAA Mountain West Inc., License No. 172603. The provider of AAA Auto and Home Insurance is CSAA Insurance Group, a AAA Insurer. All policies are subject to policy terms, underwriting, guidelines and applicable laws. ©2020 AAA Northern California, Nevada & Utah. All rights reserved.

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SMART GUIDE

Clean green, bathroom edition. As in the kitchen, try to avoid toxic chemicals—including chlorine, ammonia, formaldehyde, and bleach—in bathroom cleaners. Again, you can make your own alternatives: Recipes for bathroom disinfectants are easy to find online. If you want a commercial product, opt for one of the reliably green brands listed in tip #9 above.

14. Cool your load. Use cold water for your laundry. With warm or hot loads, up to 90 percent of your washer’s energy consumption goes to heating the water. Yet today’s machines and detergents are optimized for cold water, which cleans just as well and can help clothes last longer by preventing fading and shrinkage. Fun fact: If every Las Vegas home switched to cold laundry washing for a year, the city would save enough energy to power the entire Strip for almost a week. While you’re at it, use a detergent that’s free of phosphates, such as Ecos, Method, or Seventh Generation, wait until you have a full load to run the machine, and wear clothes more than once if they’re not that dirty.

Office 16. Print judiciously. When you really need a hard copy, use both sides of recycled paper. Ink-saving fonts such as Ecofont (about $8 per year at ecofont.com) cut down on toner by incorporating microscopic holes into each letter. When your old printer is no longer serviceable and it’s time to choose a new one, look for a model that’s Energy Star certified. Stock it with remanufactured ink cartridges or soy-based toner.

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Skip the dryer. Dry what you can on a line or rack. After your HVAC system, your clothes dryer is probably your home’s biggest energy hog.

AAA Members can get a $1,000 rebate on new solar panel installations from SunPower. They also get discounts on Google Nest products, Energy Star electronics from Dell and HP, and memberships with AAA House Manager.

TOP: RAMON PORTELLI / ISTOCK; BOTTOM: FABRIKASIMF / SHUTTERSTOCK

Laundry room

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The Road to Electric vehicles are here, and more are on the way. But are they ready for a good long road trip? by b r a d l e y b e r m a n

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p h o to g r a p h y by d av i d h . c o l l i e r

I bought my first

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electric car a decade ago. It was a small, battery-powered Nissan Leaf hatchback with just 84 miles of range—not exactly a longdistance highway cruiser. But from day one, it felt like driving a little piece of the future. Ten years later, my wife and I are embarking on a five-day, 1,000-mile road trip to test-drive an allelectric E-Tron SUV on loan from Audi. Sure, we could have taken the trip in our own electric car, a batterypowered Chevy Bolt that has better range than the Audi’s 204 miles per charge. But the opportunity to cruise Northern California and southern Oregon in a swank, $86,000 sport-ute was irresistible. The E-Tron is just the latest all-electric vehicle to hit the United States market, which now includes a dozen models. According to Sam Abuelsamid, principal analyst at Navigant Research, that number will rise to more than 100 in the next five years, ranging from compacts to full-size pickups and SUVs. Market forecasts for electric vehicles are all over the map, but it’s indisputable that the EV revolution is real, and it’s happening now. In almost every way, the transition from driving a gas-powered car to driving an electric vehicle is seamless. But as our trip made clear, traveling long distances reveals some significant differences between EVs and their internal combustion counterparts. Most of those differences make driving more enjoyable, at least for me. I vastly prefer the quiet, consistent hum of an EV to the rumble of a revving gas engine. Even in a relatively mild-mannered EV, accelerating away from a stoplight can feel like launching into hyperdrive; the slight pause and surge as gears shift are gone. And it’s a joy to know that my car doesn’t produce any tailpipe emissions. The biggest difference between an EV and a gaspowered vehicle is the attention you have to pay to driving range. From my first 84-miles-per-charge Leaf, I upgraded to an all-electric Toyota Rav4 SUV, which had a range of 103 miles. Three years later, I got the Chevy Bolt that we still drive now, which can go 238 miles between charges (the latest Bolt goes 259). These cars all cost roughly the same amount, but in six short years the range nearly tripled and will continue to improve. In the United States, the typical driver covers 40 miles a

left: Getting a charge in Point Arena, Calif. right: An Audi E-Tron quietly cruising the coast near Mendocino, Calif. A A A | VIA

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A home setup like this may not be possible for everyone. “If you live in a house with a garage, it’s straightforward to get a 240-volt charger installed,” says Abuelsamid. “But if you have to park on the street, or you live in an apartment building, it’s a different story.” The morning of our departure, we pack up the E-Tron, unplug it, and zoom away. After silently gliding through the rolling hills of rural Marin County, we hit the coast and head north. Our first day’s destination: the cute oceanside village of Mendocino, 165 miles from home. Along the way, we stop for a break in the little town of Point Arena. While the day’s drive is well 30

within our E-Tron’s fully charged range, we still take the opportunity to add a few miles when we can. Using the PlugShare mobile app to locate the nearest charging station, we find a 240-volt public charger in a Point Arena parking lot. We plug in and head for lunch across the street at the delightful Franny’s Cup & Saucer bakery. After a savory bread pudding and a stroll through town, we get back to the car. We make a brief stop at the 110-acre B. Bryan Preserve, where we get a guided tour of its zebras, antelope, and giraffes, then drive the final 35 miles to Mendocino. Cabin 6 at the Sea Rock Inn offers a charging station as a free amenity. So we plug in again and settle on the cabin’s porch to catch a glorious Pacific sunset. That easy overnight full charge sets us up for the next day, the most ambitious leg of our trip: a 300-mile jaunt to Grants Pass, Ore. Given the distance we need to travel, and the relative remoteness of the area, I’m careful to map out our route and our stops before we leave. The plan is to cruise through majestic redwood groves and past desolate Lost Coast landscapes—and use the highspeed chargers we can find along the way. The first of those chargers is just 76 miles from Mendocino, at the Benbow Historic Inn near Garberville. We dawdle at the Chandelier DriveThru Tree in Leggett, Calif., then steer north. The station at the Benbow has a 50-kilowatt charger, the first of its kind we’ve seen on the trip. The higher a charger’s kilowatt rating, the faster it’ll charge—in this case, about eight times faster than our home charger and the public station in Point Arena. At this rate, we could add about 90 to 100 miles of range in 30 minutes. Different EVs can accommodate different charging speeds. Later in the trip, we’ll encounter some nextgeneration stations that can take advantage of the Audi E-Tron’s 150-kilowatt capability—enough to add about 165 miles in a half hour. Such ultrafast charging stations are now being deployed across

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“In the next year or two, you’ll have access to fast charging every 100 miles or so almost anywhere in the country.” — s a m a b u e ls a m i d

clockwise from top left: The Russian Gulch Bridge just south of Mendocino, Calif.; giraffes at B. Bryan Preserve coolly appraising an EV; the Chandelier Tree, a road-trip classic in Leggett, Calif.; plugging in for the night at the Sea Rock Inn; an I-5 charging station in Mt. Shasta, Calif.

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day, so the average EV has plenty of range to spare. Long-distance road trips are another thing altogether. Driving a gas-powered vehicle, you can expect to go 300 miles or more on a full tank, and when you run low you can rely on a network of roughly 168,000 gas stations nationwide. Depending on where you live, you can currently expect to pay about $2.50 to $3.50 a gallon. A long drive in an EV requires more planning, because the network of public charging stations still has gaps, and the rates you pay can be confusing to first-time EV drivers. The night before we leave, I plug the E-Tron into the home charger that I’ve been using for the past decade. Nearly every day, I plug in my Bolt before I go to bed, and in the morning it has way more range than I’ll use that day. Most EVs come with a basic backup charger that plugs into a standard 120-volt home outlet, which is too slow to make sense. But it’s easy to install a 240-volt EV charging station in your home. Many new EVs come with the necessary charging hardware, and you can buy a third-party charging station for about $300. Once installed, such a charger allows you to add about 25 miles of range for each hour your EV is plugged in.

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left to right: Chargers everywhere: Walmart in Yreka, Calif.; the Sea Rock Inn in Mendocino; Green Springs Inn outside Ashland, Ore.

the United States. Tesla drivers already have access to more than 800 Tesla Supercharger locations, which can supply up to 120 kilowatts. The company’s latest Superchargers— available only to Tesla’s vehicles—can go up to 250 kilowatts. But all EVs, regardless of brand, will soon have access to approximately 3,000 fast-charging stations around the United States. “In the next year or two, you’ll have access to fast charging every 100 miles or so almost anywhere in the country,” says Abuelsamid. Charging speeds depend on how full the battery is. Empty batteries are like dry sponges that thirstily soak up energy. But as they fill up, they absorb electrons more reluctantly and the charge slows to a trickle. That’s why experienced EV drivers who want to minimize charging time wait until their batteries are nearly depleted before stopping for a fast charge, and they unplug before the battery is full. At the Benbow Historic Inn, our Audi gets back up to 200 miles in range well before we finish our burgers. The added 112 miles of range costs us $15.60. Charging at home is dirt cheap, about the equivalent of $1 per gallon in gasoline. But highway locations are often closer to the equivalent of $4 per gallon gas, depending on the car’s efficiency. Some charging stations bill by the kilowatt-hour. (The efficiency of EVs is often expressed in terms of how many miles you can travel per kilowatt-hour—usually about three to four.) Others charge by the hour; you get as much power in that time as your EV’s battery can absorb. Still others 32

charge a flat fee per session. And many are free. You couldn’t put a price on our next few miles, cruising the Avenue of the Giants. We drive through the redwoods, the sunroof open, the breeze fresh and sweet. Another 130 miles up the coast we stop in Crescent City, Calif., where we discover four Electrify America charging pedestals in a Walmart parking lot. My perfectly good credit card is repeatedly declined at the first two. I manage to get the third to initiate a fast 150-kilowatt charge, but the process inexplicably stops when the vehicle is less than half charged. After a few more tries, with the sky darkening, the Audi finally has enough charge to reach Grants Pass. The day’s remaining light lingers in the sky as we travel along Highway 199, a black strip dancing first back and forth next to the Smith River, then over the state line following tributaries of the Rogue. The E-Tron—with its heads-up display and massaging seats—makes driving the twisting two-lane road easier. That’s one thing about EVs: They get the good car tech early. They’re also powerful. The whisperquiet, dual-motor engine makes it feel like a spaceship zooming through an enchanted forest. Our motel in Grants Pass doesn’t have a charging station, but the next morning we still have some juice left over from the day before. We spend a few minutes at a fast charging station in Grants Pass before starting the easy 50-mile jaunt to Ashland. We drive through the bucolic southern Oregon wine country and tranquil, historic towns—and then we notice that our range indicator has fallen to 20 miles. Maybe we should have spent another 10 minutes plugged into the charger in Grants Pass. It’s actually hard to run out of juice in an EV. You’d have to completely disregard the estimated remaining range

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PAY LESS FOR EV CHARGING AAA Members can save 10 percent at EVgo’s 750 charging stations nationwide (and don’t have to pay the $8 monthly fee). AAA.com/evgo

prominently displayed on the dashboard. It happens less frequently than running out of gas in an internal combustion car—and how often do you do that? The worst-case scenario: You get a tow to the nearest charging station. We make it to Ashland with a few miles to spare. Our room at the Palm Hotel offers a free 240-volt charger. With the car plugged in for the day, we can relax while we walk over to the Oregon Shakespeare Festival. After Ashland, the 340 miles back to San Francisco on I-5 are a breeze. We use the single 50-kilowatt charger in the town of Mt. Shasta, but nearby there’s a bank of 20 Tesla Superchargers—a hint of things to come. Before we get back on the interstate, we make a quick detour up Mount Shasta itself. The Audi handles the ascent with ease. From our lofty vantage point near the peak, the horizon never appeared so close. ● bradley berman also writes for the New York Times, Popular Mechanics, and MIT Technology Review.

top: Topping off the battery at the Benbow Historic Inn. bottom: The beauty of a road trip: Mount McLoughlin looming near Ashland, Ore. A A A | VIA

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The

Traveler Want to explore the world but also keep it green? Here’s how to minimize your environmental impact. by m a n d y f e r r e i r a

AAA Complimentary Travel Agents can help. Visit your local AAA branch, call (877) 8352233, or go to AAA .com/travel.

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RE ADY TO BOOK YOUR NE X T TRIP ?

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: KIKE ARNAIZ / STOCKSY; SAATON / SHUTTERSTOCK; ALEKSANDRA GIGOWSKA / SHUTTERSTOCK; BOND JP / SHUTTERSTOCK; OPPOSITE: JOSH WHALEN / TANDEM STOCK

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Travel can change us,

opening our eyes and minds to new sights and new ideas. Trouble is, travel may also be changing the planet, in some not-somarvelous ways. On a global scale, tourism is responsible for 8 percent of yearly greenhouse gas emissions, five times the amount generated by powering all the homes in the United States. And that number is likely to grow: In 2030, 1.8 billion people are expected to travel internationally, 400 million more than the record high in 2018. But the answer isn’t to stop traveling altogether, says Gregory Miller, executive director of the Center for Responsible Travel. Tourism is an essential engine in local economies all over the planet, contributing more than 10 percent of the global GDP. “People shouldn’t feel guilty that they want to travel,” says Miller. “But there are also ways to offset or reduce [the consequences].” To scale down the environmental impact of your next trip, try these ecofriendly suggestions, sorted into two broad categories.

Choose your transportation wisely How you get to your destination and how you get around once you’re there are the most important choices you can make. After all, a single flight can emit as much carbon in a few hours as one person produces in an entire year. For the journey from home to wherever you’re headed, choose trains or buses when you can; use a low- or no-emissions vehicle if you drive. When you need to fly, go as directly as you can—planes burn the most fuel during takeoffs and landings. And, if you have the choice, opt for airports that are trying to be carbon neutral. For a list, see airportcarbonaccreditation.org. After you’ve arrived at your destination, use public transportation or explore on foot, bike, or scooter. Miller also recommends buying carbon offsets from a reputable nonprofit such as Carbonfund.org or Cool Effect.

Leave no trace Once you get to where you’re going, you can make an effort to leave nothing behind. Take, for example, plastic bottles. Humans use 1 million of them per minute. And in places where water quality is questionable, they’re often considered the safest way to transport and consume H20. As an alternative, bring along a reusable water bottle and refill it at water dispensers or restaurants. Worried about the potability of local drinking water? Use a purification system such as LifeStraw or SteriPen.

While you’re at it, bring along a reusable shopping bag, a nonplastic drinking straw, a cloth napkin, and eating utensils; all help you avoid single-use products. When you pack, skip the tiny travel-size products and decant your favorites into smaller, reusable TSAapproved containers. Cut down on paper by opting for digital tickets for flights, trains, and attractions. Many museums and cities have apps or audio tours, so you can skip printed brochures and maps, too. Trash isn’t the only thing tourists leave behind. As of 2021, two common sunscreen chemicals that damage coral reefs—oxybenzone and octinoxate—will be banned in Hawaii. If you’re headed somewhere beachy, look for sun-protective clothing and sunscreens that use zinc oxide or titanium dioxide instead. If your lodgings have airconditioning, set it to a moderate temperature when you’re in the room, and turn it off when you aren’t. Use lights and water as sparingly as you can. Ask housekeepers to change linens every other day—or, if you’re there for just a couple of days, not at all. When you make the effort to reduce your environmental footprint as a tourist—and also seek out ways to support locals financially and culturally—“travel becomes a force for good,” says Gavin Tollman, CEO of Trafalgar, which hosts guided vacations around the world. “If each of us does our fair share, the cumulative effect of that becomes hugely impactful.” ● mandy ferreira is a contributing editor for AAA and writes for Sunset.

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p h o to g r a p h y by d av i d h . c o l l i e r

A weekend stroll around the classically Californian city reveals 250 years of history and a slew of modern wonders. If it is possible

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to distill all of California’s exuberance into a single perfect scene, a sunny Saturday in Monterey is it. At the heart of the city, behind storied Cannery Row, serious cyclists zip down the Monterey Bay Coastal Recreation Trail on $1,000 bikes, while out-of-breath parents chug along in canvas-topped renta-surreys, wishing their kids could provide a little more pedal power. At nearby San Carlos Beach Park, picnickers gaze out at the glistening bay, where speckled harbor seals bob in the waves, a wet-suited human tries to master stand-up paddleboarding, and farther out, a tour boat searches for gray whales, which it will likely find.

This is a big year for Monterey. Two hundred fifty summers ago, explorer Gaspar de Portolá arrived here, planted the Spanish flag in the sand, and founded the bayside settlement. It would become Alta California’s most important city, a thriving port and provincial capital. Then the Gold Rush led fortune seekers elsewhere. In the many decades since, Monterey has risen and fallen and risen again, drawing American adventurers, Japanese fishermen, Sicilian cannery workers, and international tourists. Monterey reveres the past but isn’t stuck there. The city preser ves its historic buildings and also

fosters innovation as a world-class center for marine

Old Fisherman’s Wharf overlooks docks in Monterey Harbor and Marina.

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DAY 1

DOWNTOWN AND ALVARADO STREET

The ideal place to start delving into local history is the Cooper-Molera Adobe, at Munras Avenue and Pearl Street. The newly renovated site, managed by the National Trust for Historic Preservation, provides an evocative glimpse of Old California. “From Mexican rule to statehood, so much of California history is represented here,” says Meg Clovis, Cooper-Molera’s codirector of partnerships and interpretation. The complex—reopened in 2018 after a two-year, $6.5 million restoration—centers on the two-story adobe built by trading ship captain John Cooper, who arrived in 1823 and married Encarnación Vallejo, a member of a 38

Monterey is so quintessentially Californian that it has served as a backdrop for innumerable Hollywood films and TV shows. prominent Mexican family. The couple’s former home now functions as a first-rate museum featuring exhibits on 19th-century life in Monterey as well as period furnishings, including a venerable Steinway piano. Next door, inside a reincarnated general store, Alta Bakery and Café serves forceful coffees, flaky pastries, and melty pizzas. Cooper-Molera is among some two dozen such landmarks downtown. “It’s been said that Monterey has the largest concentration of historic adobes outside of Santa Fe, [N.M.],” notes Nicollette Eason Trottier of the Monterey State Historic Park Association. (Free cell phone tours let you access details about prominent buildings while you stroll; call [831] 718-9123 or [831] 998-9458 and follow the prompts.) Trottier personally is fond of the former French Hotel, located a block east, at Pearl and Houston Streets. The demure digs housed novelist Robert Louis Stevenson in 1879 while he convinced Fanny Osbourne to be his wife. These days, the site—known as the Stevenson House, open Saturdays from April through October—displays his manuscripts, first editions, and other memorabilia. After your visit, you could track down a copy of Across the Plains to read his essay “The Old Pacific Capital.”

FAR LEFT: COURTESY ALVARADO STREET BREWERY

science. Downtown, timeless gardens intermingle with trendy brewpubs. On the waterfront, restaurants and retailers cleverly reclaim former fish-processing facilities. All in all, Monterey is so quintessentially Californian that it has served as a backdrop for innumerable Hollywood films and TV shows, including HBO’s hit series Big Little Lies. The city’s whole scene, old-timey and modern, is best explored on foot. Two easy walks will help you get the most out of a weekend visit: The first route traverses downtown, highlighting Monterey’s rich collection of surviving adobes and its revived main thoroughfare, Alvarado Street; the second runs along the waterfront, leading you to must-see attractions such as Cannery Row, the aquarium, and the wharf. Treat yourself to scenic rest stops and tasty quick bites along the way.

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RIGHT: SHELDON CHANG

Another standout is Larkin House, located two blocks west of Cooper-Molera, at Jefferson Street and Calle Principal. Built in 1835 by pioneer Thomas Larkin, the house rarely opens to the public, but its exterior design— two stories, wraparound porches, hip roof—offers a textbook example of Monterey colonial architecture that Trottier says set the style for much of the town. Around the corner, Colton Hall stands as an exception, a grand public building constructed of local white shale in the federal style. This is where the State of California got its start. In 1849, delegates gathered here to write the constitution that helped secure statehood the following year. The museum upstairs commemorates the occasion by displaying a copy of the momentous document and desks messy with papers and quill pens. Ready for a beverage or a quick bite? Alvarado Street has you covered. Not long ago, Monterey’s main drag came across as sleepy, maybe even a little forlorn, but the current vibe is busy and happy. The three blocks between Pearl Street and Del Monte Avenue hold an array of homespun and chic shops, anchored by the Golden State Theatre, a 1920s movie palace that today—100 years later—hosts live entertainment. Alvarado Street Brewery pleases craft beer enthusiasts with its Monterey lager, especially when paired with the kitchen’s spicy jerk chicken sandwich. Across the street, Revival Ice Cream scoops locally sourced flavors such as the knockout Bee’s Knees, a creamy organic custard laden with crunchy honeycomb candy. Alvarado Street ends at Custom House Plaza, where

above: A trolley-style city shuttle. opposite, clockwise from left: The dog-friendly beer garden at Alvarado Street Brewery; an old bronze anchor at the Custom House; enjoying baked goods from Alta Bakery and Café; the Spear Warehouse (right) at the Cooper-Molera Adobe; Dalí’s Triumphant Elephant sculpture and 12 Apostles series.

you’ll encounter two more notable adobes turned into engaging museums. Pacific House, built in 1847, dedicates its second floor to the Monterey Museum of the American Indian. Displays focus on the basketry, weaving, and pottery of the Hupa, Pomo, and other Northern California peoples. The Custom House, built in the 1820s, remains the oldest government building in California. Its exhibits detail the cattle and hide trade that enriched Monterey during Mexican rule. Across the plaza, you can take in the Monterey History and Art Association’s collection of sculptures, lithographs, and other creations by Salvador Dalí. Having fled Spain during its civil war, the mustachioed surrealist lived and worked on the Monterey Peninsula in the 1940s. Behind Pacific House, at Olivier and Scott Streets, the Joseph Boston Store takes you back to a short-lived commercial enterprise. Boston opened the store in 1850 but gave it up just 12 years later, succumbing to the challenges of frontier Monterey. His loss. Now operated by the Historic Garden League of Monterey, the store packs nicely curated gift items, many of them with an 1850s theme, as well as garden books and regionally produced foods, including the store’s own chardonnay-artichoke salsa and jams from the popular Happy Girl Kitchen. A A A | VIA

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THE WATERFRONT AND CANNERY ROW

Less than a mile north of Custom House Plaza, you’ll encounter San Carlos Beach Park at the foot of Cannery Row. The park, which delivers sweeping views of the bay, will host part of the city’s 250th birthday extravaganza on June 3. Festivities on deck include the production of a historical play and the unveiling of a 15-foot-tall ceramic-tile abalone, a sculpture befitting a city with so many ties to the ocean. Although Monterey thrived under Spanish and Mexican rule, it declined during the Gold Rush era, outshone by boomtowns such as San Francisco and Sacramento. When prosperity returned in subsequent years, it came from the sea. Salmon, abalone, and sardines were pulled by the billions from the cold waters of Monterey Bay and canned along the waterfront. For the laborers, many of whom had immigrated from Japan, Italy, and elsewhere, cannery life was backbreakingly hard. But it was colorful too, as the writings of John Steinbeck suggest. Steinbeck memorialized his wild waterfront youth in Cannery Row, the 1945 novel that made the raffish row famous. (He later won the Nobel Prize for Literature.) The author and his marine biologist pal, Ed “Doc” Ricketts, are captured in bronze at Steinbeck Plaza near Prescott Avenue. Call (831) 646-5640 for an appointment to visit Pacific Biological Laboratories, the nearby lab where Ricketts wrote the classic textbook Between Pacific Tides. From Steinbeck Plaza, wander north among the old can40

neries now occupied by shops and restaurants. Pop into ZFolio Gallery for ethereal Czech art glass or Fine Art Turkish Grand Bazaar for sumptuous rugs and hand-painted ceramics. Treasure hunters may want to scoot up the hill to Cannery Row Antique Mall, at Wave Street and McClellan Avenue. Midcentury modern furniture, carved wooden seagulls, Steinbeck first editions—they’re all here, somewhere, among the wares of 100 different dealers. The 1927 warehouse, one of the least altered structures still standing on Cannery Row, merits a peek on its own. The canneries’ heyday ended after overfishing and industrial pollution left the bay filthy and dead. Citizen activism and new state and federal environmental protections led to its cleanup in the 1970s, enabling a habitat once again hospitable to marine life. In 1984, the entity that defines the area today, the Monterey Bay Aquarium, welcomed its first visitors. Through its sustainable-seafood program and allied research institute, the aquarium has helped establish Monterey as a global leader in marine science. The institute’s many achievements include the discovery of deep-sea organisms: To date, its experts have identified more than 200 previously unknown marine species. Research aside, the aquarium knows how to entertain the masses. It effectively immerses visitors of all ages in the bay’s utterly strange and fascinating underwater realm. You can stand before a kelp forest and eye leopard sharks as they glide through the sinuous, waving fronds, or get hypnotized

BOTTOM LEFT: DANIEL BIANCHETTA

DAY 2

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TOP LEFT AND CENTER: COURTESY MONTEREY BAY AQUARIUM (2)

by translucent, hallucinatory jellyfish. Or pet a stingray. Does terra firma even exist? Not while you’re here. To get out on that water you’ve been admiring, head to Old Fisherman’s Wharf by way of Custom House Plaza. (A free trolley stops outside the aquarium every 10 to 15 minutes on weekends from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.) Migrating species pass through Monterey Bay year-round: Gray whales surface from January to March, followed by orcas, humpbacks, and blues from April to December. Monterey Bay Whale Watch runs expert tours that last three to 12 hours. Prefer to paddle a few boat lengths from cormorants, brown pelicans, and harbor seals? Sign up for a Monterey Bay Kayaks excursion. The waterfront also won’t let you down when it comes to refreshment. Strolling the pier at Old Fisherman’s Wharf, Big Little Lies fans may spy Paluca Trattoria and wonder, “Isn’t that Blue Blues Cafe?” It is, sort of. The show’s producers liked the atmosphere here so much they re-created it on a Hollywood soundstage. You don’t need to be a Lies follower to snack on the trattoria’s bruschetta—traditional, SMART TIP: Some 2 million people visit the Monterey Bay Aquarium each year. To beat the crowds, arrive early and get a hand stamp, which allows you to leave during the crush and return in late afternoon when it’s quieter. Or sign up for one of the smallgroup tours, such as Feed the Fish and Behind-the-Scenes.

above, clockwise from top left: The Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Great Tide Pool; a leopard shark swims through anchovies in the Kelp Forest exhibit; Old Fisherman’s Wharf; a Monterey Bay Kayaks excursion; Cannery Row Antique Mall. opposite page, clockwise from top left: Adding yarrow tincture to a Pearlescent cocktail at Pearl Hour; the Monterey Bay Coastal Recreation Trail near Coast Guard Pier; the Sea Wolf II cruising by orcas on a Monterey Bay Whale Watch tour.

wild prawn, or smoked salmon—and savor unobstructed views of the harbor. Nearby, next to the Municipal Wharf, Dust Bowl Brewing Co. revives a 1915 railroad depot. Grab a Hops of Wrath, its flagship IPA, to salute Steinbeck. Back on Canner y Row, newcomer Pearl Hour on Lighthouse Avenue seduces craft cocktail lovers with concoctions such as the smoky yet floral Pearlescent (mescal, gin, dry vermouth, bergamot liqueur, and yarrow tincture). The Fish Hopper pulls in crowds with creamy clam chowder based on a 70-year-old family recipe and crispy panko-coated Pacific sand dabs. A Taste of Monterey Wine Market and Bistro lets you sip wines from Hahn, Scheid, and more than 80 other county vintners—and pair them with flatbread pizzas. Raise your chardonnay or pinot noir, gaze out at the water, and toast your exuberantly perfect Monterey days. ● peter fish also writes for the San Francisco Chronicle, Sunset, and Houzz.com. A A A | VIA

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