Discover the best of Nice and southern France on the French Riviera; relax on the famous beaches of the Côte d’Azur; or visit Monaco.
Visit Kraków’s Wawel Castle and Auschwitz-Birkenau outside of the city, explore Częstochowa and Warsaw’s Old Town.
Take in the pure mountain air of Zermatt, set at the foot of the famed Matterhorn, and explore the stunning setting of Geneva.
Do you ever pause to consider how everyday things work? Head of Education at MOTAT Julie Baker has devoted her career to fostering and exploring innate human curiosity and offers insight for our feature on how stuff works.
TRAVELLER
Coast to coast
Travelling from Christchurch to the West Coast and back through Arthur’s Pass serves plenty of sweet-as treats, from the famous Pancake Rocks in Punakaiki to ice cream on Sumner Beach. 55
Eclectic Korea
Vibrant culture, cuisine and connections are among the many highlights of a trip to South Korea’s Seoul and Jeju Island.
AA HOME & LIVING
Small footprint, big impact
The Living House by RTA Studio is an impressive response to New Zealand’s housing crisis, costing less and of higher quality than other designs at the lower end of the new-build market.
Works of art
We meet photographer Emma Bass whose floral portraits uplift and inspire – and give you the chance to win one of your own. 79
We speak to Sandra Matthews, the President of Rural Women New Zealand, as the organisation celebrates its centenary; highlight how to safely navigate roundabouts; share our picks for spring events, plus we have fantastic prizes to win, including a seven-day road trip in a Maui campervan.
How
MY AA
Motoring vs. Mobility
Chief Mobility Officer Jonathan Sergel discusses the AA’s future. We also review Mevo, the car-sharing platform (and AA Member Benefit), share services from AA Home and reveal a shiny new AA Member Benefit.
All right with AA
SPRING HAS SPRUNG and I for one am looking forward to the warmer months and the lift in energy levels that comes with the change of season! As a sportsorientated family, we love getting outdoors and enjoy road tripping around the country to various equestrian events.
We notice the seasonal difference within the AA, too. Winter is tough on many cars, so this year we decided to let AA Members use one of their six callouts for a free battery check to help address any batteryhealth issues before they came up.
Promoting offers like this, and the 45-plus ways you can save as an AA Member, is a continued focus for us. I hope you’ve seen our new Membership ad which has featured on TV screens over the past months.
The ad features Ray, our loveable bobblehead. If you’ve seen it, I’m sure you’ll agree it really captures the
feeling you have when you’re an AA Member and know that, as the song goes throughout the ad, it’s All Right Now. It showcases the broad range of benefits you get as an AA Member; if you need a refresher to make sure you’re getting the most of everything that’s on offer, I encourage you to head to the AA website.
Speaking of the website, if you haven’t visited for a while I hope you’ll be pleasantly surprised. We’ve shifted to a new platform which makes it easier for Members to find out about all the products and services within our AA ecosystem, from mobility to home and insurances. It looks great, too!
Another recent area of focus for the AA has been on whether there are ways New Zealand could have more effective fines and penalties for driving offences. The Government is looking at reviewing these for
the first time in decades and we completed two surveys earlier this year to understand AA Members’ views on the current system and ways it could be changed.
We have also been looking at approaches in other countries and came up with nine changes that we think could provide more deterrence for drivers taking risks on the roads and get more people sticking to the rules. You can read more about this in the article on page 34.
Advocacy projects like this are just one of the ways we show up for Members and New Zealanders, contributing to our position as one of this country’s most trusted and iconic brands. Our team takes great pride in that.
Thanks for your continued support as an AA Member. I hope you enjoy this issue of AA Directions magazine, preferably in the warmth of the spring sunshine!
Mā te wā.
Nadine Tereora CHIEF EXECUTIVE
EDITORIAL TEAM
Kathryn Webster
Monica Tischler
Jo Percival
DESIGN & ART
Julian Pettitt, Alanna Dennis, Stephen Philp HOW TO
EDITORIAL
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Contributors
GRANT BRADLEY
Freelance journalist Grant Bradley has been interested in electric vehicles (EVs) since going to Norway to study the country’s energy sector in 2015. At the time there were just over 800 EVs on New Zealand roads; now there are 90,000. Grant has relished the opportunity to find out what’s driving that growth – and delves into it on p.36. While he and wife Estelle haven’t taken the plunge into EV ownership, it’s on the radar after their puppy Maggie has moved to a less destructive phase.
Kia ora
Clever, curious humans learning how the natural world works and then applying that understanding to create useful inventions; that pretty much describes human evolution. As I'm sure everyone will appreciate, it was a hard task deciding what to include in our cover feature as there is no shortage of truly remarkable things to learn about, natural and human-made. Hopefully this tiny taster will tap into everyone's innate curiosity about how things work.
Kathryn Webster EDITOR
RUTH LOW
Ruth Entwistle Low is a Tīmaru-based freelance oral historian, writer and author. Her bestselling books, The Shearers: New Zealand Legends and On the Hoof: The Untold Story of Drovers in New Zealand speak to Ruth’s love of rural Aotearoa and her interest in the lives of those working in the rural sector. Ruth, and photographer husband Mark Low, have travelled the country extensively and love to find the hidden gems on the roads less travelled around the motu. Read about their visit to Ōkārito on p.50
AA to the rescue!
Has the AA helped you out of a pickle, saved the day, surprised or delighted you? Do you have a story to share with other Members? Send it to AA Directions, PO Box 5, Shortland St, Auckland 1140 or email to editor@aa.co.nz
RYAN BOS
Ryan is a Motoring Advisor at the AA. As a qualified journalist with a background as an automotive technician and parts advisor, he brings insights and a solid understanding of automotive systems to a job which includes producing car reviews for the AA’s website and for AA Directions (see p.42). A keen traveller, Ryan is always planning his next international trip and enjoys exploring New Zealand, too. He’s also a regular visitor to Auckland Zoo.
PHOTOGRAPH BY JESSIE CASSON
by Stephen Philp
LETTERS
Equitable safety
Two letters in AA Directions’ Autumn 2025 edition called for increased hours and mandatory lessons with a qualified instructor before getting a restricted licence. These are both sound ideas, yet there are assumptions made here; firstly, that everyone is able to manage without a restricted or full licence for several years; secondly, that everyone is in a family position with both a car and a fully licensed adult to gain the hours of practice required; and finally, that everyone is able to afford to pay for formal lessons.
In my rural town there is little work available and extremely poor public transport links to larger towns. A number of families do not have access to a car or a fully licensed driver, and lessons with a qualified instructor are beyond the budgets of many of us.
All of us want our young drivers to be safe and capable, and I’m sure we also want driving education to be available to everyone, regardless of their geographical and financial circumstances. Any moves to make formal lessons compulsory or to extend learning times must also include ways to ensure rural and lower income drivers are not penalised for being rural or coming from families without a lot of disposable income. Fairness and safety can, surely, go hand in hand.
W Starstrider SHANNON
Bumps and signs
Contractors are merrily repainting road lines and as layer after layer of paint accumulates on the streets, I notice the bumps when riding my pushbike.
I am also concerned about the speed advisory signs flashing as we enter towns around the motu. How accurate are they?
The ones in my area seem to register my car’s speed at around 4km/h above my own speedo reading. Which do I trust?
N Stevenson WESTPORT
Bus lane solution
I read your article on bus lanes (AA Directions Autumn 2025). What I would like to see as an improvement is some kind of marking on the road or kerb indicating where the 50 metre point is. It’s not easy to guess this point when driving while also trying to navigate everything else around you. Determining the eligible place to enter the bus lane can be tricky.
A Beck
AUCKLAND
Bus lane question
With only a short distance to move left into a bus lane to turn into a street or driveway, if the bus lane through traffic is busy with no gaps to be able to cross, what then is a driver supposed to do – indicate and push in? Does the bus lane traffic have to give way to allow you to turn left? Or do you just slow down and stop in an adjoining lane until the bus lane is free and safe to enter? I’m sure that would create havoc.
M Forrester
AUCKLAND
You must give way to all vehicles already travelling in the bus lane; you cannot simply indicate and force your way in, and bus lane traffic is not required to let you in. If there is no safe gap, you must slow down and wait in your lane until it is safe to move left. If traffic conditions make it impossible to enter the bus lane safely, the correct action is to continue past your intended turn and find a safe place to turn around.
Bigger fines
The AA is right to be pleased that the New Zealand road toll in 2024 was 48 below the tragic number in 2023 (AA Directions Autumn 2025). We are all pleased. It will come down even further if the Government lifts the paltry $150 fine for using a hand-held mobile phone while driving to $1,000, as Queensland has had for decades. It is so cheap here that thousands of people do it all over New Zealand and will not stop until wary of a big fine.
M Hunter
AUCKLAND
36 AA Centres around New Zealand
$41m+ Member savings last year*
45+ Exclusive AA Member Benefits
474,000 AA Roadservice jobs last year*
110,000+ Driving lessons last year*
The AA agrees that New Zealand’s fines and penalties are overdue for review. Read more about this on p.34. *2023-2024 Financial Year
AA Directions' Spring and Autumn issues are printed and also delivered in digital format. The Winter and Summer issues are digital only. We welcome feedback and views on articles in AA Directions and on any issues affecting motorists. Because of the volume of mail we receive, letters cannot be personally acknowledged. Only a selection can be published and they may be edited or abbreviated for print. By writing to the editor, you agree to the publication of your
and region. WRITE TO: The Editor, AA Directions, PO Box 5, Auckland,
SANDRA MATTHEWS
President of Rural Women New Zealand
The organisation has 135 branches and groups across Aotearoa and is celebrating its centennial year. Sandra is a sheep and beef farmer with husband Ian in Tairāwhiti, runs an agri-business coaching consultancy and has held governance and committee roles, including for Federated Farmers, Beef + Lamb NZ and other women’s groups around New Zealand.
Do you need to be a farmer to be a member of Rural Women New Zealand (RWNZ)?
Not at all. If you’re rural at heart you can join Rural Women New Zealand. We even have a branch in Wellington City for women who live in the capital.
Would it surprise people to know what RWNZ does?
Like many, I thought Rural Women New Zealand was just about baking, knitting and older women. But being involved in the organisation, I realised that’s not true.
Our mission is to support and give a voice to rural women and the communities they live in or advocate for, so that they’re connected and thriving – not just our members, but the entire rural community.
RWNZ provides a broad spectrum of support and networking opportunities. There are also options for leadership and personal development, and we do a lot of advocacy work with Government ministers, especially in education, health and social aspects like rural banking and school buses.
The basis of our charitable work is giving back to the community. Our groups fundraise, but there are plenty of other initiatives too; one member is looking to have a four-wheel drive training day.
What were some of the early initiatives of RWNZ?
In 1940 members raised enough money in just one month to buy an entire Spitfire to contribute to the war effort. They proudly presented the cheque to the Government to send to Britain to purchase a fighter plane. The plane bore the inscription of the organisation and was initially piloted by the son of one of the members from the Levin branch.
In 1927, the organisation set up the Bush Nursing Programme. These were
nurses with surgical and midwifery qualifications employed to provide care in remote areas. There are photos of them on horseback, going through paddocks and bush to reach people.
Why did you join?
The advocacy side of RWNZ attracted me because I could see their work was making a difference. I realised that if you’re going to change something, you need to be able to talk to Government officials or ministers and help them understand they need to rural-proof their decisions by looking at how they’ll impact rural communities.
I’m proud that at RWNZ we advocate for issues like schooling and healthcare, for instance for more GPs and nurses in rural areas. Recently, Minister Doocey announced a mental health and wellbeing fund and we were part of the industry group that carried out research and work around that.
Rural connectivity is something RWNZ’s been at the forefront of for many years too, working with providers like Chorus because it is so important for rural businesses to have good connectivity with reduced blackspots.
Is there an age limit?
We have a lot of younger people joining because they’re interested in the advocacy work we do – members in their late teens and early 20s – but we also have members over 100 years old. I recently met someone who’d been a member for 67 years.
Do you help rural entrepreneurs?
Yes, we have a Country Collective on our website that provides a virtual ‘shopping centre’ for members’ businesses.
We also run an Activator Programme where people come together with their
business ideas and a panel provides coaching and strategic thought to help them build confidence to take the next steps.
We also hold our own annual business awards.
Is there actually any baking and knitting still involved?
Some members do like to fundraise for community projects through knitting, baking and catering, which often covers whole functions for organisations holding events within their district.
Following the Christchurch earthquakes RWNZ mobilised to feed the ‘Farmy Army’ of volunteers, too.
Back in 1965 the Women’s Division of Federated Farmers, from which RWNZ grew, launched a cook book and that became the staple of kitchens of rural women countrywide. It also became a welcome gift for newcomers to rural communities.
There are members too who knit items for babies and donate them to antenatal units and hospitals.
How is RWNZ celebrating the centenary? We’ve just launched a centennial scholarship for health students and for which we’re fundraising throughout this year.
Also, a special limited edition centenary rose was developed by our branch in Fordell-Mangamahu, in conjunction with Matthews Nurseries of Whanganui. The money raised from selling 1,600 of these will go towards children’s education in that area.
How does it feel to be involved in an organisation like RWNZ?
I’m extremely proud of Rural Women New Zealand and the work our members do. The Government talks about farming being the backbone of the country.
Well Rural Women New Zealand is the beating heart behind that.
Sandra Matthews and husband, Ian.
Model pooch
NEW ZEALAND’S MOST decorated Olympian, canoeist Dame Lisa Carrington, has had her fair share of time in the spotlight. Now the camera has turned to her beloved cavoodle pup, Colin, with the launch of Colindar, a 2026 calendar created to raise awareness and funds for Save the Kiwi, which Dame Lisa is an official ambassador for.
Teaming up with Linda Palmer of Paw Prints Photography, the Colindar features 12 months of Colin’s many moods captured against iconic New Zealand backdrops, and also offers practical tips on how to manage dogs around kiwi
habitats to better protect our national bird.
Dame Lisa says Linda has captured Colin in a fun, he ar tfelt way, while still sharing an important message about protecting kiwi. “I hope we can do some good with it,” she says.
Linda, a former cavoodle owner herself, says ‘superstar’ Colin is the perfect pup to promote the safe practices that allow dogs and kiwi to live safely alongside each other.
All profits from the 2026 Colindar will go directly to Save the Kiwi and is available from pawprintsphotography.co.nz for $23+ postage.
Evolving masterpiece
EMBRACE YOUR CREATIVITY with an interactive sculptural installation by Korean artist Do Ho Suh and his young daughters, Aami and Omi.
Auckland Art Gallery Toi o Tāmaki has Artland (started in 2016) on display, crafted from children’s modelling clay and featuring quirky creatures and fantastical landscapes: Noodlegrass, Blobbugs, Spocky Trees and Slimes. Visitors can sculpt their own creations to add to the installation.
The artwork has been installed in time for the gallery’s inaugural Kids & Whānau Festival on October 11. That free event will feature other exhibitioninspired crafts, dance and movement workshops with Atamira Dance Company, performances by Auckland Philharmonia, children’s entertainer Suzy Cato and Christchurch-based sister duo Loopy Tunes.
A further installation by Suh – North Wall (2005) – is also on display, featuring an impressive eight-metre, large-scale fabric sculpture that appears to float in space, suspended from the ceiling in the heart of the gallery.
Globally renowned for his translucent fabric sculptures, often described as portable homes, North Wall is one of Suh’s most significant
early pieces. It replicates the wall of his father’s studio in Seoul, a building modelled on traditional Korean scholar’s houses and the architecture of the artist’s childhood home while
evoking themes of longing, memory and traces of displacement.
Both installations will be displayed at the gallery until 2026.
See aucklandartgallery.com for more.
Honouring Te Reo Māori
TOITŪ TE REO, the world's first Māori language festival, is a celebration of Māori culture, heritage and te reo.
Intended to inspire, entertain, unite, challenge, excite and activate, it offers a vital platform for New Zealanders to come together and celebrate the significance of the language in Aotearoa.
It features a range of free events, including a rangatahi poetry slam, kai stalls, a kōhanga reo space for children, a parents’ retreat area, an art trail, live demonstrations, retail opportunities and vibrant street concerts.
For those seeking more, a ticketed all-star variety show promises an evening of bilingual stand-up comedy, talented musicians and powerful kapa haka performances.
Central to the festival is Te Reo ki Tua, an initiative that has consistently grown in strength over the past seven years. It offers discussion panels with te
reo experts, insightful keynote speakers, and a space for both fluent speakers to further refine their skills and those just beginning on their te reo journey.
The festival will take place in Heretaunga Hastings on November 13 and 14, 2025.
See toitutereo.co.nz for more.
with AA Directions
There are great prizes up for grabs in this issue to help celebrate the change of season.
Seven-day Maui road trip
Gladness by Emma Bass
You’d be forgiven for thinking the perfectly imperfect compositions of technicolour flora – blush peonies, cobalt hydrangeas, roses, dahlias, poppies and pansies exploding from vases like fireworks – are the masterpieces of an experienced florist. But Emma’s background and approach are entirely photographic, guided by an intuitive sense of composition developed over years behind the camera. Each artwork is printed on archival Giclée paper and is part of a limited-edition series – no reprints are made once an edition is sold out. AA Directions has a 30 x 30-inch Emma Bass unframed floral portrait titled Gladness (valued at $400) to give away.
To enter, send your name and contact details to:
AA Directions, Emma Bass giveaway, PO Box 5, Shortland Street, Auckland 1140. Or enter via our website aadirections.co.nz before November 30, 2025.
See p.70 for the full story.
Dreaming of a spring road trip? Spare yourself the drama of finding places to stay and make your travels easy by taking everything you need with you in a Maui campervan. Enter to win a seven-day (six-night) hire of a Maui Cascade fourberth campervan and discover the freedom of a self-contained adventure. The prize includes campervan pick-up from any New Zealand location, daily hire charges for seven days, unlimited kilometres and all the bedding, linen and kitchen equipment you’ll need for an unforgettable holiday.
To be in to win a seven-day, six-night Maui campervan hire, send your name, address and phone number to:
AA Directions, Maui campervan giveaway PO Box 5, Shortland Street, Auckland 1140. Or enter via our website aadirections.co.nz before November 30, 2025.
T&Cs and blackout periods apply. See aadirections.co.nz for more information.
A ballet experience
The AA and the Royal New Zealand Ballet are giving AA Members the chance to win flights, accommodation, rental car hire and tickets to an Auckland showing of The Nutcracker. One of the world’s most beloved ballet classics, The Nutcracker, returns for a summer season.
A timeless celebration of Christmas, family, fantasy and growing up, this year’s performance also details a delightful Kiwi touch. Evoking the nostalgia of childhood holidays, the show will feature a backdrop of snowy Southern Alps and a fairytale Kingdom of the Sweets. You and a friend will enjoy:
Return flights with Air New Zealand
One night’s accommodation at Rendezvous Heritage Hotel, Auckland
Overnight parking
Use of a rental car during your stay
Tickets to RNZB’s The Nutcracker at a showing of your choice: from December 4 to 13, 2025 at Kiri Te Kanawa Theatre, Aotea Centre, Auckland.
Enter online at aa.co.nz/rnzb, no later than November 4, 2025.
AA Members receive up to 15% off Adult and Child tickets to RNZB performances. The Nutcracker will tour Wellington, Christchurch, Dunedin, Napier, Auckland and Palmerston North from October 30 to December 20, 2025. See aa.co.nz/rnzb for more information.
Art trail up North
ANYONE HEADING UP north for Labour Weekend should factor in time to experience Tai Tokerau Art Trail, which will showcase work by nearly 200 artists in various vibrant settings in the Mid to Far North.
Known as KOAST, the annual Kerikeri Open Art Studios Trail is a celebration of Northland talent presented in open studios, galleries, museums and collective hubs.
Art lovers and collectors can meet local and guest artists creating paintings, sculptures, ceramics, jewellery, glass art, fibre art and more over the four days, following a trail to 47 venues.
The trail guide lists artists, their locations and the medium they work in – allowing visitors to plan a long weekend exploring the region’s art scene.
“It’s more than an art event – KOAST
is an invitation to explore Northland at its best: winding coastal roads, heritage landmarks, vineyards and small towns alive with creativity,” says Anna Hamilton of Bay of Islands Creative Charitable Trust. “Many of the venues are near hidden beaches, excellent cafés
and iconic attractions, making KOAST ideal for a long weekend itinerary.”
KOAST – Tai Tokerau Art Trail runs from October 24-27. See koast.org.nz for more details and to buy a trail guide, which also puts visitors in a $5,000 raffle draw.
By A Thread in flight.
Northland artist, Catherine Dunn.
SHADES OF SHAKTI is an intercultural group of musicians bridging the gap between traditional Indian music, classical music and jazz.
Their performances mesmerise audiences through their musical interplay, the propulsive energy of their melodies, the excitement of their rhythms and the overall interconnectedness of the performers.
The group is comprised of band leader Justin Clarke, (who also plays with Bret Mckenzie), tabla player Basant Madhur, violinist Tristan Carter and drummer Thomas Friggens. Since debuting at the Wellington Jazz Festival in 2018, Shades of Shakti has captivated
audiences around New Zealand with original compositions, traditional Indian Ragas and music from Ravi Shankar and John McLaughlin’s award-winning Shakti album.
Between October 31 and November 22, Shades of Shakti will perform in Kerikeri, Hamilton, New Plymouth, Rotorua, Pohangina, Nelson, Onekaka, Reefton, Granity, Hokitika, Arrowtown, Cromwell, Gore, Dunedin, Geraldine, Ashburton and Christchurch.
MUSICAL TOUR Festival of connection
Organising the tour is Arts on Tour, a trust that takes New Zealand performers to rural and smaller centres around Aotearoa. See aotnz.co.nz for details of this and other tours.
NOW IN ITS 31ST YEAR, the Nelson Arts Festival is a highlight for the Whakatū creative community with 11 days of arts experiences planned for October 23 to November 2.
With 46 events in a programme rich with bold ideas and brave artistry, the festival supports connection across music, dance, theatre, circus, literature, community and kōrero. Artistic Director Janelle Bish says this year’s programme champions works that are deeply human and gloriously ambitious.
“Artists and authors ask provocative questions, share arresting personal truths and gift us moments of beautiful connection and transformation, sometimes quiet, sometimes radical,” she says.
Inspired by the quiet moment before dawn, Janelle’s vision invites audiences to slow down, reflect and reconnect in a world that rarely pauses. Highlights include a ‘wildly physical and poetic’ contemporary circus performance by Australia’s One Fell Swoop; Cinematographer by Anthonie Tonnon which blends original compositions with archival film footage, visual DJing and psychogeographic storytelling; award-winning theatre, and Pukapuka Talks, a programme featuring 31 authors and thinkers.
The festival’s legendary Mask Carnivale returns with the theme of Transformation, promising a riot of colour, creativity and community.
“Whether you’re into aerial circus, powerful kōrero, or music that moves you, there’s something for everyone”, Janelle says.
The full programme is available at nelsonartsfestival.nz
Toot toot! Happy journeys ahead
ARE WE THERE YET? Thrifty Car Rental has teamed up with Australian children’s group The Wiggles to create Backseat Brainiacs, aiming to make family road trips more engaging and less monotonous. No questions asked!
The in-car experience keeps the whole family entertained, minds engaged and screens switched off with a memory-card matching game, a road trip scavenger hunt and the listenalong Backseat Brainiacs audio quiz read by The Wiggles.
Research shows that during road trips children spend as much as 56% of their time on tablets and smartphones. Backseat Brainiacs offers a screen-free alternative.
Red Wiggle, AKA Simon Pryce, says it’s all about sparking imaginations, sharing laughs and helping families enjoy the journey together.
“Long car rides with young children can be a challenge, so we wanted to bring a bit of Wiggles magic to help make them more fun. It invites families to play, think and connect during the drive,” he says.
Thrifty customers receive a free Backseat Brainiacs pack with every booking. See thrifty.co.nz/wiggles for more or to download and print off the free road trip scavenger hunt, or a link to the Backseat Brainiacs audio quiz.
AA Members save with Thrifty
AA Members get 20% off the best base rate of the day on New Zealand rentals and 15% off the best base rate of the day on Australian rentals. T&Cs apply. See thrifty.co.nz or call 0800 475 028 for more.
How to do roundabouts
ROUNDABOUTS CAN BE challenging with their multiple entry and exit points contributing to a sense that everything is happening at once.
The first rule is to scan ahead. Look for road signage showing the layout of the roundabout, with arrows indicating what lane you should be in to exit for your destination. Once you’ve clocked the correct lane, scan and then signal your intention to move to the correct lane. When it’s safe to do so, move into that lane.
When you’re at the entrance of the roundabout, keep scanning ahead and also to the right – as you’ll need to give way to other road users coming from that direction.
If you are turning left, signal left for at least three seconds, giving way to all vehicles coming from the right. Move when it’s safe to do so. Stop indicating once you have exited the roundabout.
If you are going straight ahead through the roundabout, don’t signal left until you have passed the exit before the one you are taking. Again, remember to stop indicating once you’ve left the roundabout.
If you are turning right, signal with your right indicator at the entrance and move into the roundabout after giving way to all vehicles on your right. When you’ve passed the exit before the one you are taking, signal left to show you are leaving the roundabout. Once you have, turn off your indicator.
At all stages of negotiating a roundabout, you need to be alert with continuous scanning, apply the Give Way rules, communicate with other road users with the correct use of your signals and drive at a speed that you can stop safely at.
HOW STUFF WORKS
Do you ever stop and wonder: how do things actually work?
Is it technology, or is it magic, that your windscreen wipers automatically turn on when it rains? How do planes stay in the air, how do eyes work, how does sunscreen stop our skin burning?
Nature is impressive with its multitude of incredible designs and so too are humanmade inventions – things developed and refined to contribute a never-ending creative flow from brains driven by curiosity and the desire to improve.
Head of Education at the Museum of Transport and Technology (MOTAT), Julie Baker, has devoted her career to being curious and is dedicated to encouraging inquisitive minds. The former mechanical engineer, now an educator, has always been interested in how things work and describes curiosity as the engine of human progress, believing it’s a quality that is hardwired in us from birth.
“Curiosity and inquisitive minds drive absolutely everything we do and everything we’ve achieved,” Julie says. “If you think about everything that we have created – physical inventions, environments, knowledge systems – they have all started with a curious person. Someone, somewhere, thought: ‘What, why or how?’
“That in-built curiosity starts in babies,” Julie says. “Curiosity is what gets them crawling; they’re lying on the floor, and they want to move because something has caught their attention.
“It’s such a fundamental part of being human. It’s so innate, that I can’t imagine there being someone who doesn’t have that sense of curiosity about things.”
Spread across 40 acres in Central Auckland, MOTAT offers an engaging learning experience for visitors of all ages while detailing the achievements and advancements that have shaped New Zealand over centuries.
Julie leads a team that provides educational experiences to 30,000 New Zealand students each year, from early childhood to high school, through a Ministry of Education contract. With a vision to inspire the innovators of tomorrow, learning experiences are delivered on-site at the museum, in schools, and via online courses that have reached children as far as the Pacific Islands.
Next year the pilot programme, Innovation Forge, will be available in schools around the country. The curriculum developed by MOTAT works to nurture students on the journey of becoming an emergent innovator. Students will learn to use tools like 3D printers and laser cutters in a workshop environment before moving on to developing prototypes and testing; connecting with industry experts, creating a personalised opportunity for learning and development.
“The programme sees students come out of their comfort zone and move
beyond passively observing what’s going on and into active engagement. That’s when learning happens,” Julie says.
“When we talk about inspiring the innovators of tomorrow, what we would like to see from graduates of the programme is New Zealand-grown innovation that is still grounded in our culture, but with global reach,” Julie says.
So, what sparks curiosity for Julie, who holds a decades-long career in innovation? She mentions the aptly named Curiosity rover, launched by NASA to go to Mars in 2012. Its mission was to investigate whether the planet once supported life and its potential for future human exploration.
“A year after landing on Mars, NASA scientists 500 million kilometres away on Earth programmed the rover to sing Happy Birthday to itself,” Julie says.
“That was the first time the song had been played on another planet. To me, that’s awe-inspiring; that we have the drive to get it to Mars in the first place but as a species, to have the empathy to make it sing to itself on its birthday.”
Perhaps that’s the underlying message: strive to quite literally reach beyond the stars – the very constellations our ancestors used to navigate oceans – but without losing the human touch on our own voyages of curiosity.
How do these work?...
FLIGHT
FLIGHT COMES DOWN to physics, says Head of Education at the Museum of Transport and Technology (MOTAT), Julie Baker.
“At its core, flying is a careful dance between lift – which pulls the aircraft up –weight, due to gravity, which pulls it down – thrust, pushing it forward and drag, holding it back. When these four forces are in harmony, magic happens: planes rise, cruise and glide through the air.”
Take-off begins with speed. As an aircraft accelerates, air rushes over the wings, generating lift and allowing the plane to climb.
“The key to getting off the ground is for the thrust force to be greater than the drag force, and lift force to be greater than the weight force,” Julie says.
The plane’s engines provide thrust to move the plane forward; when the thrust is larger than the drag the plane will accelerate down the runway.
Once a plane is moving the air flows over its wings, which are specially shaped to create lift. The air moves faster over the curved top of the wing, creating lower pressure above and higher pressure below, which pushes the wing upward. When the lift force is larger than the weight force, the plane will rise into the air.
Julie says autonomous aircraft –pilotless planes – follow the same physics, but with a high-tech twist.
“Instead of a person in the cockpit, these crafts rely on smart systems: GPS, sensors, and artificial intelligence that interpret data, make split-second decisions, and guide the plane from A to B.”
MOTAT is developing a new exhibition for its Aviation Hall, opening in December 2025, that is all about how things fly. Meanwhile, in its current exhibition Hautū Aunoa Autopilot, you can see an autonomous aircraft – the Wisk Generation 5 Cora – which has been running test flights in Aotearoa.
AA Members get 20% off General Admission to MOTAT. Show your Membership card at the gate.
MĀORI NAVIGATION
MĀORI CELESTIAL NAVIGATION is a wayfinding system that relies on careful observation of the natural world rather than instruments, explains Kaupapa Māori Coordinator at Stardome Observatory & Planetarium Olive KarenaLockyer. She says tohunga whakatere (navigators) used the following natural observations:
Stars and star lines – Specific stars and constellations (such as Matariki/Pleiades) were memorised as rising and setting points on the horizon, forming star paths to steer by at night.
Sun and moon – The sun’s path during the day and the moon’s phases and position at night helped track direction and time.
Ocean swells – Patterns of waves and currents indicated where islands lay beyond the horizon.
Birds and wildlife – Seasonal movements of seabirds, fish and other animals gave clues to nearby land.
Clouds and colours – Cloud shapes and reflections on the ocean surface often revealed land just out of sight.
“By combining these cues, Māori navigators could travel vast distances across Te Moana-nuia-Kiwa (the Pacific Ocean), guiding their waka hourua (double-hulled canoes) to Aotearoa and beyond,” Olive says.
TOUCHSCREENS
WE USE THEM every day – on our smartphones and tablets, at the supermarket, in our cars, and even at the gym. But have you ever stopped to wonder about how touchscreens work?
Engineering, Computer and Mathematical Sciences professor at AUT Fakhrul Alam has. In fact, he’s currently harnessing touchscreen principles to develop a smart floor which could make life safer for the elderly by tracking them walking and detecting any falls.
“When you look at your smartphone, the first layer you see is the glass protector, and behind that is the display. Between the glass and the display, there is a ‘digitiser’ made up of many tiny capacitive sensors. It’s basically a glasslike layer coated on both sides with a transparent conductive material, usually indium tin oxide (ITO),” Fakhrul explains.
“On one side, tiny metallic lines are painted horizontally, and on the other
side, they’re painted vertically. Every time the lines cross, an electric field is generated between them creating a ‘capacitor’, and this field is constantly being monitored by the device.
“When your finger gets close to, or touches, one of the capacitors it disrupts the electric field, changing the value of the capacitance. The location of the disrupted capacitor on the grid is recognised by the processor (essentially the brain behind the touchscreen) which has also been programmed to figure out what you want it to do. Depending on the gesture (double or single tapping, or pinching to zoom) it will respond to your command accordingly.”
These days capacitive screens are the most common and sophisticated type of touchscreen, but there are others, too. ATMs and kiosks, for example, need to be more robust and require you to push down on the screen with your finger
before a signal is sent. This resistive touchscreen technology consists of two thin layers with a small gap in between. When you press down, the layers touch, creating an electrical connection and sending a command to the device. If you don’t push hard enough, it won’t work.
As technology evolves, touchscreens are becoming more advanced, and touchscreen principles are being harnessed for an ever-growing lineup of products.
CARBON CYCLE
CARBON MOLECULES are in a constant process of exchange everywhere around us.
Principal Scientist – Carbon Cycle at Earth Sciences New Zealand Jocelyn Turnbull studies carbon movement and concentrations, and the imprint that we humans leave on this cycle.
She explains that carbon dioxide (CO2) molecules occur naturally in the atmosphere and are constantly on the move. The basic elements of carbon cycle transfer include plants and trees, which take in CO2 during photosynthesis, and use it to grow, storing it in their roots and the soil. The carbon is then released when they rot or decay.
Humans and other animals release carbon when they breathe and when
they decompose. Oceans act as natural carbon reservoirs; as CO2 increases in the atmosphere, the oceans absorb more of that CO2. Rocks and other geological deposits have the capacity to store carbon for millions of years, but only exchange it slowly with CO2 in the atmosphere.
“At any given time, there’s enormous amounts of carbon exchanging out of the atmosphere and then back into the atmosphere. We describe that as the Earth breathing. You see the same kind of thing happening with the ocean. The ocean absorbs a whole lot of carbon dioxide and also releases a lot of it. That’s happening all the time in a natural system and, on average, over a year, over a decade, that’ll be in balance.”
The dynamics of ocean movement play a big role in how much carbon the ocean takes in. “It’s complicated because the ocean is not like a nice, well-mixed glass of water. It’s only at the ocean surface that exchange can happen, which means the atmospheric exchange of carbon with the ocean can take thousands of years.”
On land, the amount of carbon that is retained in the soil and the rate at which it is released, is also complex and determined by things like temperature and precipitation, and the type of vegetation present.
Humans tilt the natural balance of the carbon cycle by burning fossil fuels (such as oil, coal and natural gas), which are transformed into CO2 in our atmosphere.
“We tend to get a bit myopic and look at planting trees as a great way to reduce global warming, but the carbon is not actually being locked into those trees indefinitely. If you chop the trees down and burn them, or in the case of forest fires, carbon goes straight back into the atmosphere.”
Jocelyn says that in New Zealand, vehicle emissions are the number one culprit for human-made CO2 emissions by quite a long shot. “We also produce CO2 from electricity generation, but not much, because most of our electricity comes from renewable sources. We really want to understand where CO2 emissions are coming from and how we can reduce them, so through our research programme, CarbonWatch-Urban, we’re working to map where and when those emissions occur around New Zealand.”
Thanks to internationally groundbreaking research first begun in New Zealand by scientists Athol Rafter and Gordon Fergusson, who began measuring atmospheric CO2 in 1954, Jocelyn and her team are able to measure radiocarbon isotopes in our atmosphere. This allows them to distinguish humanmade sources and concentrations of CO2 in our environment from those that are naturally occurring.
Too much carbon in our atmosphere fuels global warming; too little of this element and the Earth would begin to cool.
WINDSCREEN SENSORS
MANY MODERN VEHICLES are fitted with technology that is designed for convenience and allows us to focus on driving. One such gadget is the windscreen sensor that springs into action at the first sign of rain, activating the wiper blades before we get the chance to.
The windscreen sensor is a compact module that usually sits near the rearview mirror at the top of the windscreen; it may be visible behind a patch of black dots. The sensor is made up of light-emitting
diodes (LEDs), light receptors and a small yet powerful processor.
Using a principle known as Total Internal Reflection, it harnesses the power of infrared light – which sounds complicated but is actually quite simple.
The LEDs beam an infrared light across the inside surface of the windscreen. If the windscreen is dry, the light reflects internally and bounces across the glass, entering a photodiode receptor. Like shining a torch into a
mirror, the light reflects back. But when the windscreen is wet, the process changes. Because water refracts light, the infrared light scatters when it encounters water droplets on the windscreen. Instead of reflecting off the windscreen into the receptors, the light diffuses and escapes.
The processor in the sensor module notices the drop in light density being returned and interprets it as moisture. It then signals to the car's internal computer to activate the wiper blades.
WOOL
TRIED AND TESTED by billions of sheep, wool is nature’s coolest multitasker. Not only does it keep us cosy in the winter, but it also keeps us cool in the summer making it the ultimate all-season survival kit.
But how does it work? General Manager of Campaign For Wool NZ, Kara Biggs, is asked this question a lot.
“There are a few things at play which means wool becomes nature’s own little climate control system,” she explains. “First, wool has natural crimp – or waves – in the fibre, which trap millions of small air pockets. These mini air pockets heat up and retain warmth in winter.
“Meanwhile when it’s warm, wool absorbs moisture vapour (like sweat)
from the body and releases it into the air which cools the body through evaporation. Wool can absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture vapour
without feeling damp, allowing your skin to breathe which makes you feel more comfortable.”
Compare that to synthetic fibres which Kara says are plastic and trap moisture, making you feel wet, sticky and hot.
Although all wool has temperature regulating attributes, certain breeds are better for certain applications.
“Merino is a fine wool breed and works well next to the skin because the cuticle (outside layer) of the fibre feels softer. Strong wool breeds like Romney, Perendale and Coopworth make up about 80% of New Zealand’s wool production and are better suited to upholstery, carpets, insulation, bedding, furnishings and soundproofing applications, because these need a heavier, more robust fibre that is more durable.”
ALCOHOL INTERLOCKS
ALCOHOL INTERLOCKS are an in-car breathalyser designed to be installed in the vehicles of high-risk drunk drivers.
Close to 4,000 alcohol interlock sentences are handed down annually in New Zealand and the devices prevent about 40,000 attempts to start a vehicle each year by drivers detected with alcohol in their system.
When a driver tries to start a vehicle with an interlock, they will first have to blow into a hand-held mouthpiece which has been wired into the vehicle’s ignition system.
The key part of the interlock is ethanol-specific fuel cells, which can turn small amounts of alcohol into an electric current.
If the levels of alcohol are high enough, the ethanol-specific fuel cells will produce a current. The interlock has electronics inside measuring how strong that current is and therefore how much alcohol is in the driver’s breath.
For anything above a very low alcohol reading, the interlock will prevent a vehicle’s ignition signal being sent to its engine, meaning it is unable to be turned on and driven.
A New Zealand evaluation in 2022 showed interlocks reduced drunk driving and disqualified drivers reoffending by about 30%.
THUNDER & LIGHTNING
YOU MAY NOT always hear it, but thunder and lightning are two sides of the same coin. The rapid expansion and heating of air caused by lightning produces the sound of thunder.
So, why is it that sometimes the two occur almost simultaneously, while at other times the sky lights up long before we hear thunder? MetService meteorologist Lewis Ferris explains although they occur at nearly the same time, the light from the lightning flash reaches our eyes sooner than the clap of thunder reaches our ears. The experience depends on how far away we are from the eye of the storm.
“The speed of light is a lot faster than sound in air – basically a million times faster,” Lewis says. “Light travels so quickly it can loop the circumference of the Earth around seven times in a second. This means we can assume the light from the lightning flash reaches us basically instantaneously.”
Compare that to the speed of sound which travels at a comparatively sluggish 343 metres per second in dry air at 20°C (faster in hot, humid air). Armed with this information, you don’t need to be a rocket scientist – or even a meteorologist – to calculate how far away a storm is.
“If you count the seconds between seeing the flash and hearing the thunder you just need to multiply that by the speed of sound in the air.”
There’s an easier way, too.
“Every three seconds of delay adds a kilometre to the distance. By comparing the timing delay between successive lightning strikes and their thunder, you can identify whether or not the thunderstorm is heading your way.”
Unsurprisingly, it’s very important for meteorologists to know where lightning strikes are.
“We have access to Transpower’s lightning detection network and no, it’s not just a whole lot of people situated around New Zealand looking to the skies. Lightning strikes give off radio waves and if they are received by a few sensors then the position can be accurately determined.”
INDUCTION CHARGING
YOU MAY TAKE for granted your phone magically charging when you place it down in the centre console of your car –but it’s not sorcery, it’s science.
Induction charging primarily uses two coils of wire to create an electromagnetic field that enables energy transfer between two devices. When power passes through the transmitter coil in the base of the charging pad, it conjures an invisible bubble of energy, known as an electromagnetic field. Your phone has
SUNSCREEN
TO UNDERSTAND how sunscreen protects our skin, we first need to know why we get sunburnt, says Dr Chris Larsen, a senior lecturer of chemical sciences at the University of Auckland.
“One way of thinking about light is that it’s a form of energy,” Chris says. “The sun produces light at lots of different energies – we call that the solar spectrum. Most of it is the light we can see, the red, green, blue colours that appear white overall, but there are also other wavelengths like infrared, which is the low-energy light, and at the other end we have the high-energy ultraviolet light.
“Most ultraviolet light is absorbed by the atmosphere, otherwise we’d all burn to a crisp, but there are certain wavelengths that do get through.”
While UV doesn’t penetrate very deeply into the skin, its high intensity means that it still damages our cells. To prevent this damage, we protect ourselves with clothing and, of course, sunscreen. But how does the topical application of a cream stop high-energy light?
There are two different types of sunscreen, Chris explains.
“There is the thick zinc oxide or titanium dioxide version that you’ll see cricketers wearing with their very white faces. These work by particles reflecting or scattering the light. Titanium dioxide
a similar receiving coil that, when placed inside the electromagnetic sphere, induces an electric current which the phone converts into power to charge its battery.
Think of the process as an invisible handshake between the coil in the charging pad and the one in the phone. Both coils know exactly what to do; charging begins the moment your phone comes into contact with the charging pad.
While the technology required for wireless phone charging is relatively new, the concept of induction charging has been around for over a century; Nikola Tesla first explored the idea of power transfer back in the late 1800s.
is also commonly used as the base for paint – so, with these sunscreens you’re literally putting paint on your face.”
The other type of sunscreen is slightly more complicated, chemically speaking, as it uses molecules to absorb light.
“This more common type of sunscreen uses organic molecules that absorb ultraviolet light due to the nature of their electronic structure,” Chris says. “Most sunscreen formulations use about 10 to 15 active ingredients, all of which are absorbing light.
“The different organic molecules absorb different UV frequencies, and then convert that light to another form of energy – typically heat.”
So, if you’re wearing sunscreen, do you feel warmer? It’s hard to tell, Chris says, because the same process that’s happening with the molecules in the sunscreen is simultaneously happening with the molecules in your skin and warming you up.
The reason sunscreen is comprised from multiple active ingredients is because they all have different jobs.
“It’s important to have a mix of different molecules that absorb different regions of light and at different amounts,” Chris explains. “Some are very good absorbers but have low stability. Others are not so good at absorbing but are very stable. So, by making a mixture of those you get the best of everything.”
TRAFFIC LIGHTS
WHEN YOU’RE STOPPED at traffic lights, waiting for them to turn green, do you wonder who or what is in charge of them?
According to Kipi Wallbridge-Paea, Optimisation Delivery Team Leader and traffic light expert at Auckland Transport Operation Centre (ATOC), the answer is a blend of humans and technology.
At the heart of the system is the length of time, or phase, that a green light stays
EYES
EYES WORK by converting light into electrical signals that the brain interprets, explains Professor Steven Dakin from the School of Optometry and Vision Science at the University of Auckland.
Light passes through the cornea – the transparent, curved front surface of the eye – which refracts incoming light through the pupil, the hole in the center of the iris. The size of the pupil controls how much light enters the eye; it expands at night to help us see in low light.
Behind the pupil sits a lens which is attached by tiny muscles that change its shape to further focus light, Steven says.
“This focusing allows for light arriving from objects at different distances, which enters the eye at different angles, to converge and generate a sharp image on the back of the eye.”
What happens to light landing on the retina?
green. Kipi explains initial settings for each crossing are established by traffic engineers. The settings form a base plan, which enables the system to run and adapt autonomously in real time. Engineers also set guidelines for realtime operations teams who act as first responders to unusual traffic conditions and can override the base settings to resolve problems with the network.
Beside each traffic signal, electromagnetic sensors are placed beneath the road surface just before an intersection’s white stop lines. They detect when a vehicle is waiting for the lights to change, though only when vehicles are directly above them.
Above ground, you’ll spot a cabinet nearby. It contains the brains of the corresponding traffic lights for that crossing or intersection. Information from the traffic sensors and pedestrian and cyclist crossing pushbuttons is fed into the control box, via underground wiring, to determine when each light turns green and the length of the phase. Every sensor in the wider network provides information on the direction
and volume of traffic detected, allowing the system to dynamically adjust the traffic signal phases.
Because most traffic lights are in urban locations rather than state highways, regional councils tend to manage lights on local roads, while on-ramp signals on urban motorways are overseen by New Zealand Transport Agency Waka Kotahi.
The timing of traffic signals prioritises main arterial roads – a main road will have longer green light phases than those on a quieter side road. In regularly busy zones, individual lights are preset to synchronise with each other at peak hours to keep traffic moving. At night, or during quieter times during the day, the chance of consecutive red lights is greater because the traffic lights are set to operate independently.
If traffic lights stop working, it’s usually due to a faulty sensor; road works damaging a road surface are a common culprit. Until the lights are working again, normal give-way rules apply.
“The retina has lots of layers. One contains two types of photoreceptor cells – rods and cones – that turn light into electricity. Each eye contains about 60 million rods. They’re exquisitely sensitive to light, generating a response to a single photon of light – the smallest packet of energy in the universe. But they aren’t tuned for the wavelength of light, which is why we don’t see colour at night.”
Steven says that there are also five million cones in the retina. “Humans have three types of cones, each containing a different photopigment which absorbs light at one of three wavelengths corresponding to red, green or blue light.
“When light hits the photoreceptors, it triggers a chemical change in the pigment, which initiates an electrical signal. This electrical signal activates different types of neurons, or brain cells, in the retina in different layers ending up with ganglion cells – which pass the signal on to the brain.”
Some ganglion cells are activated not by rods and cones but contain the photopigment melanopsin allowing them to respond directly to light. These intrinsically photosensitive retinal ganglion cells control both the pupil and help synchronise our circadian rhythym (our sleep-wake cycle) with the external day-night cycle. This feature of eyes was only discovered in 2002.
Wheel Love
Dom and his 2006 Porsche Cayman.
“THE CAYMAN is one of two Porsches I own. I have a 2001 Porsche 911 Turbo which was on my list of dream cars ever since I was a kid, and the 2006 Cayman.
Both of them are analogue, manual sports cars. I like that they’re old enough that there are no big screens. There’s just a slot to put in a CD and the air-con unit, and I love that. I don’t want all of that tech.
I have never turned the stereo on in either of my cars. They’re sports cars, I just want to listen to them.
I bought the Cayman about a year ago because I wanted a track car,
and one that could also be my daily drive. It had to be a rear-wheel-drive, manual, naturally aspirated and fun, but could survive the track.
I try to take it to the track once a month. I like to change the oil after every two track days. That’s a lot, I know. Most people would do it every six months to a year. Even my mechanic says I don’t have to do it that regularly, but I just feel that when I take it to the track I’m beating on it, so I want it to be checked.
32 On the tools
A female-focused mechanic workshop in Christchurch teaches valuable car skills.
36
Clean and green?
We investigate whether EVs are as eco-friendly as claimed.
39
Safer highways
Are the safety improvements on New Zealand's roads making a difference?
I take it to a motorsport shop and every time I take it in, they go around and check every bolt underneath to make sure I’m not about to pop something. They often find stuff, so it’s not like I’m being completely paranoid.”
See aadirections.co.nz for the full story and more images.
Jo Percival gets under the bonnet at a female-focused mechanical workshop.
You don’t know how to change a tyre?” It’s a common response to my admission of automotive incompetence. My ignorance of all things mechanical is especially embarrassing given how long I’ve worked for the AA. So, I decided to do something about it.
Melissa Hannan has been running Girls N Gasoline, her basic mechanic workshops for the last 18 months. Designed to provide a safe, nonjudgemental space for women to gain knowledge of their vehicles, her workshops are a great place to upskill.
In her Christchurch garage Melissa
pops the bonnet of a white Toyota Corolla and I peer nervously at the unfamiliar components that make up a bog-standard engine.
A qualified mechanic, Melissa has been working with cars since she was 15 years old. “I started doing automotive engineering at high school,” Melissa says. “We got to spend time in a mechanic workshop and after a year the guy who took me on offered me an apprenticeship. I’ve been doing it ever since! I like being hands-on and being physical. I’m a doer, so I like to be active in a workshop.”
Evidence of Melissa’s practical skills is
parked next to the Corolla in her garage: a 1959 Chevrolet Parkwood station wagon. It’s a behemoth of a car at more than five metres long, all cherry red and winged chrome. “I brought it in from the States about 10 years ago,” Melissa says. “It wasn’t running, and it took me nearly a year to get it working and on the road. I’ve driven it from Auckland all the way down to Invercargill and The Catlins – all over New Zealand really.”
The opportunity to teach others came about when Melissa got talking to friends about their car knowledge. Or lack of it.
“A lot of my friends didn’t know the
basics of how to maintain their vehicle, they’d never done it, so I realised that there was something there. If you can drive, you should really know how to do some of these things.
“I’ve been in the trade for so long that it’s easy to forget what people don’t know. So many people have never been taught this stuff, and it can seem scary if you don’t have the knowledge. I would be the same if I had to go into a plumbing place! I want to give people that little bit of confidence so they can go into a Repco or a mechanic shop and not feel daunted.
“I really love teaching people,” Melissa continues. “And I wanted to make a comfortable space for women. That’s why I put on food and refreshments, too. I don’t want people to feel like they’re coming to study, it should be a fun outing.”
Under the bonnet, Melissa runs me through how to check the car’s oil and coolant, noting where the levels should be and why it’s important to check.
“I always tell people that if you check regularly, you’ll be able to keep that maintenance up before it becomes an issue,” she says.
She covers off changing wiper blades, checking tyre pressure and how to jumpstart – information that is imparted with a word of warning: “jumpstarting another vehicle the wrong way can blow computers and do thousands of dollars’ worth of damage,” Melissa says. I pay close
A lot of my friends didn’t know the basics of how to maintain their vehicle, they’d never done it, so I realised that there was something there.
attention to where and how she attaches the jump cables.
In her workshops, which she holds all around the country, Melissa limits the numbers to eight people, “otherwise not everyone can see under the bonnet or have a turn on the tools,” she explains.
“I’ve had girls as young as 13 come along with their mums. I’ve had retired ladies whose partners have passed away and they want to get some confidence with their cars. There’s a full range of ages.”
We get to the bit of the workshop that I came for: the tyre change. Melissa explains how the car needs to be on flat ground, how you need to loosen the wheel nuts before jacking it up, and where the jack needs to sit in between the notches behind the front wheel. She talks me through the steps as I get my hands dirty.
It’s quite a revelation to jack up a vehicle, physically lifting it off the ground by myself. I spin off the preloosened nuts and slide the wheel onto the ground. To put it back on I sit, as Melissa instructs, with my feet on either side to lift the wheel onto the car, then, once lowered, I use my body weight to lever the nuts tight again. “I tell people not to worry about doing them up too
tight; we’re not going to be strong enough with the tools that we have available to overtighten,” Melissa reassures me.
“You did it!” she says, as I wipe down my grubby hands, feeling unexpectedly proud of my newfound skills. It’s barely scraping the surface of all there is to learn about cars, but I no longer have to hide when someone asks me about changing a tyre.
Don’t want to get your hands dirty?
Call AA Roadservice to safely jumpstart vehicles or change flat tyres and help you get back on the road. Your AA Membership covers you, not the vehicle, so you’re covered whether you’re the driver or a passenger, no matter what you drive or ride. AA Roadservice is available 24/7. Call 0800 500 222
It’s time for a review of traffic fines and penalties, Matt Tso reports.
Fines and penalties are an important road safety instrument and setting them at effective levels is a balancing act. Set too high risks people feeling unjustly treated and unpaid fines will cause problems for an already stretched justice system. Too low, there is a risk of road users ignoring the rules because the consequences are insignificant.
When New Zealand last looked at fines and penalties for road rules in 1999 Britney Spears was on the airwaves with her debut single Baby One More Time, Jenny Shipley was clearing out her desk to make way for Helen Clark and the median weekly income before tax was $520.
Because New Zealanders’ median weekly income has since increased 158% ($1,343 in 2024 according to Stats NZ), AA Road Safety Spokesperson Dylan Thomsen says a review of fines and penalties for driving offences is overdue.
“Back in 1999 getting pinged $30 for a low-level speeding infringement or $150 for not wearing a seatbelt was a significant bite out of your paycheck, but the deterrent has eroded when you consider the growth in wages.”
The AA is in favour of adjusting fines for inflation to restore them to the same real value as 1999, and wants to see them automatically inflation-adjusted so constant revisions become unnecessary.
“Adjusting fines for inflation would help restore the deterrent value quickly and easily. Influencing behaviour is the key goal here, and combining fines with things like demerit points would add extra incentive to stick to the rules,” Dylan says. He says penalties should not only be high enough to act as a deterrent but should also recognise the severity of an infraction.
Drunk and drugged driving, not wearing seatbelts, speeding and distractions like cellphones are common factors in many crashes and are behaviours targeted by Police in road safety. The AA believes the penalties for these offences should be better aligned to the potential harm they can cause.
What the A A wants included as
part of the review
Increase fines to reflect inflation rates since they were last reviewed.
Have higher fines and penalties for higher-risk offences.
Review penalties so higher-risk offences that don’t currently incur demerit points will.
Apply a multiplier to demerit points on traffic offences during holiday periods.
After an inflation adjustment, that would be a good place to start a review of offences that might need higher sanctions, to improve their deterrent effect.
“Along with education and policing strategies, linking stiffer fines to offences that are involved in many fatal and serious crashes is part of the equation in curbing unwanted behaviour.”
Dylan says New Zealand’s fines and penalties are out of touch, with offences like driving without a registration incurring demerit points yet getting
Consider alternative penalties alongside traditional penalties.
Introduce a ‘good behaviour’ bond. Investigate increasing penalties for repeat offences.
Make first offence drink drivers eligible for alcohol interlocks. Expand alcohol and other drug treatment courts.
caught without a seatbelt does not.
“Right now, it’s a mess. We have high-risk offences with pretty light consequences, while the repercussions for some lower-risk offences are very tough.”
A rethink of how and when demerit points are applied would be an effective way of discouraging dangerous behaviour on the roads. The AA is also in favour of more severe penalties during holiday periods and for repeat offenders.
For more articles on road safety policies, see aadirections.co.nz
Our Members say
In 2025 the AA undertook two surveys to better understand Members’ experiences and views on fines and penalties for unsafe driving. Over 4,000 Members took part in the surveys, which found widespread concern that current penalties are outdated, ineffective and inconsistently enforced.
The perception among the majority of AA Members was that fines are not effective. Just 38.6% of participants explicitly labelled fines as being effective for offences relating to speed, seatbelt non-compliance, drink driving, drugged driving and cellphone use. A consistent theme in Member commentary was that they thought fines were too low to act as a deterrent for unsafe behaviour.
In contrast, 59% thought demerit points were effective at preventing unsafe driving. Many Members were of the view that the prospect of losing your licence was a better deterrent than a financial penalty, with some suggesting more offences should incur demerit points.
How is your GREEN
Grant Bradley checks the environmental credentials of going electric.
EV ?
For Anna Henwood the decision to buy a full battery electric car was easy. She had wanted to cut her fuel bill, still drive a stylish vehicle and to do something good for the planet. “It feels more like the future,’’ she says of her sporty Peugeot e-208.
She lives at Red Beach, about 40km away from her job in Auckland City where she goes three days a week. She’s calculated she saves around $250 a month on fuel.
Before the Chief Executive of consumer research company Stickybeak bought the car last year she was aware of issues around battery disposal and some scepticism about just how green battery electric vehicles (BEVs) are, but those concerns were outweighed by the financial and long-term environmental benefits. She’s able to charge at home overnight with plenty of battery to spare for her commute.
Anna is one of the small but growing number of motorists making the switch as driving range for their dollar increases and new BEV models arrive from China.
There are just on 90,000 BEV owners in New Zealand. In the middle of this year these accounted for just 1.89% of the light vehicle fleet.
From close to 40% of sales during the peak of the Clean Car Discount scheme, sales of BEVs fell off a cliff early last year, but have recovered to about 12% of new vehicle registrations. While home charging is the favoured option, the lack of public charge points is a deterrent. There are about 1,350 in New Zealand now; the Government has committed to 10,000 by 2030.
Drive Electric promotes electric vehicle (EV) use in New Zealand; its chair Kirsten Corson says no two buyers are the same. Some are acutely conscious of the long-term environmental impact of their EV, others buy them when petrol prices go up.
But she says that no matter how you look at it, you’re going to be better off by all measures.
Amid an anti-green backlash on social media there are claims, usually featuring a photo of a Tesla battery, that the minerals and energy used to make a BEV mean it would take seven years to begin lowering carbon emissions compared to making an internal combustion engine (ICE) vehicle.
The staunchest advocates of EVs concede that making them does initially require more energy, given the quantities of metals such as cobalt, copper and nickel which must be mined often in remote places and transported to manufacturing hubs in the United States, Europe and China. But it’s two years or less
Happy EV owner, Anna Henwood
Ben Gleisner, founder of green fintech company Cogo, is a fan of electric cars.
His entry into the market to accommodate a growing family and at least four big road trips a year was, of necessity, a hybrid Mitsubishi Outlander. That was about seven years ago but now the Wellingtonian is confident that big new BEVs have the range required for his family’s needs and he’s about to buy one. He’s been a Treasury
before they’re carbon neutral, according to experts in the United States and Europe. Updated findings by the International Council on Clean Transportation finds the lifecycle emissions of BEVs in Europe are four times less than petrol-powered ICE vehicles.
What goes in matters
Battery EVs produce no tailpipe emissions, so the true test of their environmental credentials is how the electricity fed into them is generated.
New Zealand is blessed with abundant renewable electricity. It fluctuates but is between 80% and 95% on any given day.
But this means the rest comes from burning gas and coal that feeds the national grid, the pool where all power is drawn from. No matter which power company you’re with, even those which generate only from renewable sources such as wind and water, the power for your BEV can come from thermal generation.
The good news is that the proportion of renewable electricity will continue to increase when new plants are approved and built. The country will need them as its industrial and transport sectors are increasingly electrified.
Right now, EVs draw a tiny amount of total electricity. A Ministry of Business, Innovation and Employment (MBIE) study showed that in 2023, EVs accounted for 0.27TWh (terawatt hours) out of total demand of about 40TWh. That’s less than 1%. However, the MBIE scenario shows
environmental economist and, while saying he’s no expert, has crunched the numbers. EVs are not for everyone, he says. There’s a sweet spot in the number of kilometres you do to make it worth investing in a BEV, still typically more expensive than an equivalent ICE vehicle. For him, the environmental savings over the lifetime of the car are important. ‘’You're talking 80% to 90% less carbon. So, it is a no-brainer.’’
Although BEVs were estimated to have about 40% higher production emissions than ICE vehicles due to emissions from production of the battery, these additional emissions are offset after about 17,000km of use in the first one or two years. And this is in the European Union where
transport electricity demand growing to 9.6TWh by 2050, which would be around 15% of demand.
Getting that power to chargers in homes and on highways will need further investment in the grid and local lines companies around the country.
In Norway, close to a third of cars are BEVs and to date this year 93% of new vehicle sales are fully electric.
Norway has vast oil resources making it one of the world’s wealthiest countries and it is blessed with deep hydro storage and wind turbines that generate close to 100% of its electricity. Since the 1990s it has penalised petrol and diesel cars with high taxes, while exempting EVs from import and value-added taxes to make them more attractive.
The Secretary General of the Norwegian EV Association, Christina Bu, has spent nearly two decades promoting the benefits of EVs and fending off waves of attack with ever-evolving narratives decrying them.
Bu, who earned a place on TIME’s prestigious 2024 list of the 100 most influential global climate leaders, says the journey for other countries with less renewable energy generation must start somewhere.
‘’If you believe we have to reduce manmade climate emissions drastically, then
renewable electricity generation accounts for around 50% of total power, far lower than in New Zealand.
The Council, which has backing from the European Commission, the United Nations and private donors, found that when using only renewable electricity, BEVs were estimated to produce lifecycle emissions 78% lower than conventional ICE vehicles.
Kirsten of Drive Electric says businesses and the Government buy about 60% of new cars and it doesn’t take a fleet buyer long to calculate payback on BEVs. She also says retired people on fixed incomes can enjoy the fuel cost savings as well as less stress about repairs, given EVs have just a fraction of the moving parts – about 20 to 25 – while there are about 2,000 parts in ICE cars.
Battery recycling is in its infancy but growing, most for home use but increasingly for re-use, with Auckland company Mint Innovation part of an $18 million international consortium to recycle them for Jaguar Land Rover.
we have to make sure our vehicles can run on renewable energy,’’ she says.
It’s unwise to wait for 100% renewable energy production before starting to adopt EVs because that will take decades.
‘’We have to do both things as fast as possible. So, changing to electric vehicles makes sense in every country and will just make more and more sense as electricity production increases.’’
Christina Bu of Norwegian EV Assoc.
SAFER MAKING ROADS
Efforts to make our roads safer are working as planned. Matt Tso reports.
Half of all road deaths in New Zealand happen on our state highways, making them prime locations for work that can deliver significant safety improvements.
A recent study commissioned by the AA Research Foundation (AARF) looked into whether our highest-risk highways are getting safer. It found deadly and serious crashes have reduced by 20.4% across some of New Zealand’s highestrisk roads since the 2000s.
The research looked at the 35 highestrisk links across the country’s state highway network. It compared the safety record of these highways across two five-year periods, 2002 to 2006 and 2017 to 2023 (excluding 2020 and 2021 when Covid restrictions were in place).
Twenty-six of the 35 highways received significant safety improvements between the observation periods. The highways that had the larger scale safety upgrades, like the building of bypasses, partial bypasses and significant lengths of median and side barriers, saw fatal and serious injuries drop by an even higher margin: 28.4% on average.
“In real terms there are about 20 fewer fatal crashes happening every year on our most dangerous highways compared to 15 years ago. And that drop has happened despite traffic increasing 50% between 2009 and 2023,” says AARF Programme Manager Christopher Stachowski.
“The research shows that the new roads and upgrades that NZTA have done are delivering results. Our highways are generally much safer than they used to be.”
There were six roads where the number of fatal and serious crashes increased and four more where the decrease was less than 10%.
Most of these roads had little or no significant safety improvements between the two monitoring periods, or work was either underway or finished so recently there was no opportunity to observe any change.
scale upgrades are still valuable. Safety measures like the wire rope barriers installed near Upper Hutt can’t be expected to eliminate crashes, but they do prevent head-on collisions, slow down vehicles that have lost control, and reduce the number of vehicles leaving the road. In this case fatal crashes have reduced 83%.”
Christopher says being able to track the safety performance of New Zealand’s state highways is hugely valuable.
“It’s important to remember that the figures here represent people – low numbers
In real terms there are about 20 fewer fatal crashes happening every year on our most dangerous highways compared to 15 years ago.
Christopher says while these roads showed no net improvement, when crash rates were compared with the growth in traffic volumes the situation did look better for some.
For example, SH2 from Wellington to Upper Hutt increased from 56 serious and fatal crashes in the 2002 to 2006 period to 58 in 2017 to 2023. Between those spells the average daily use of the road nearly doubled from 20,621 vehicles per day to 37,008, and the number of fatal crashes fell from 12 to two.
“Not all roads got a brand-new bypass or a full redesign, but smaller
or high, increases or decreases, they show whether or not someone has been able to get home safely and continue living their life. This research is an important insight into how we can best use our resources to reduce deaths and serious injuries and make our roads safer.”
For the full story, detailing highways that have received improvements, see aadirections.co.nz
KEEPING UP TO DATE
The AA provides refresher courses to senior drivers, free to Members every two years. Vanessa Trethewey tags along for the ride.
WHEN JOE HEAPPEY gets behind the wheel you know you’re in good hands. The North Auckland local has been driving for decades – not just cars, but farm trucks and tractors, and not only on New Zealand roads, but all over the world.
He cut his teeth in a Morris 1000 (using his arms as indicators) and was driving trucks around a neighbour’s farm from his early teens. At a spritely 79, Joe is still hitting the road, but despite a
lifetime of driving experience he reckons there’s always room for improvement.
“I’ve been driving on and off since I was 14, but decade-long habits can be hard to break. I don’t delude myself that I’m perfect,” he says.
It’s a sentiment shared by AA, who provide free refresher driving lessons to senior AA Members (aged 74+) once every two years. The hour-long sessions aim to pinpoint areas of concern, and
offer tips to help drivers brush up on their skills. AA driving instructor Philip Anstiss is a big fan of the courses.
“It’s important to keep seniors up to date with any changes and ensure they’re following safe driving practices,” says Philip, who has been delivering the training for the AA since 2019. “Most importantly, these sessions are designed to help keep them – and everyone else –safe on the road.”
Joe is a touch nervous about being critiqued, but Philip quickly puts him at ease, explaining that it’s not a test, but rather a relaxed, low-key session designed to be a positive and enjoyable experience. Lessons are customised to suit the unique needs of each driver, kicking off with an introductory chat and car safety check (front and rear indicators working? Tick!), before buckling up and heading out into the traffic.
“It’s horses for courses,” Philip says. “I start off by asking the student where they usually drive, and that’s what guides the session. If they only drive in their local area, then we just stick to that, or if they tend to drive further afield I’ll also take them on the motorway.”
Joe falls into the latter category. As well as driving from his home to the supermarket several times a week, he regularly drives to Manurewa, Kāpiti and around Waiheke Island. Philip puts him through his paces covering off a range of tasks like pulling out from the kerb, making a U-turn in a cul-de-sac, and navigating T-junctions and roundabouts.
We pull into the PAK’nSAVE carpark to run through some key dashboard functions (hazard lights, window demisters and windscreen washer symbols), before heading to the motorway to check out Joe’s merging and lane-changing skills. Then it’s back into the local township where we encounter hazards such as pedestrian crossings, jaywalking, double-parked trucks and people reversing out of car spaces. Joe completes the session with flying colours, but does everybody?
“Yes and no,” Philip admits. “For the most part seniors are pretty good drivers, but some common areas of concern include scanning properly, changing lanes safely, indicating at roundabouts and keeping to the speed limit. And yes, they often speed!”
A lot of seniors are also not checking their mirrors enough. “When it comes to teaching younger drivers we get them to look back when changing lanes or merging, but some seniors may not have that mobility through their neck, so checking mirrors regularly is vital.”
Driving with both hands on the wheel is another biggie, but while the two o’clock and 10 o’clock rule was once the norm, these days the dial has shifted to nine and three.
“That’s because cars have airbags now and placing your hands at nine o’clock
For the most part seniors are pretty good drivers, but some common areas of concern include scanning properly, changing lanes safely, indicating at roundabouts and keeping to the speed limit.
and three o’clock – with thumbs up, not wrapped around the steering wheel –gives you the best chance of protecting yourself if an airbag inflates.”
The session culminates with a relaxed chat in the car – a chance for Philip to share any feedback and suggestions. In Joe’s case, the feedback is resoundingly positive.
“Joe, you’re a good driver,” Philip says. “You know what you’re doing and you’re at the top range of seniors I’ve tested.”
So after sharing just a few nuggets of advice (“Watch your speed! Keep both hands on the wheel!”), the pair head for home.
For Joe, it has been an hour well spent.
“I know I get a bit of a lead foot at times but otherwise I think I’m a safe driver,” he says. “What I was hoping for from this session was to find out if there’s anything I’m doing wrong, and what I can do to improve, and that’s exactly what Philip provided.
“The senior driver sessions are a great Member Benefit – I’ll be back in two years!”
As well as the free Senior Driver Coaching Sessions every two years for AA Members aged over 74, AA Driving School offers the session to drivers preparing for on-road safety tests that may be required by a doctor as part of the seniors’ licence renewal process. Drivers must renew their driver licence at age 75, 80 and every two years after that. They must present a medical certificate each time they apply to renew their licence and a doctor may require an on-road safety test as part of that process. For more information, see aa.co.nz/drivers To arrange a free session like the one experienced by Joe, call 0800 223 748
NEW CARS
KIA EV3
The new EV3 expands Kia’s range of electric vehicles. With its distinctive blocky design and upright stance, the five-seater compact SUV fits perfectly into Kia’s head-turning lineup. The single electric motor produces 150kW and 283Nm of torque and is matched to either a 58.3kWh or 81.4kWh battery, depending on the variant, giving the longrange option a class-leading 605km range. The fast charging battery tops up from 10% to 80% in just 30 minutes. Packed with modern safety features carried over from the flagship EV9 model, as well as over-the-air updates, the EV3 embodies Kia’s most comprehensive EV package. With the base variant starting at $55,520 +ORC, the EV3 is a strong contender in a competitive segment.
SUZUKI FRONX
Suzuki’s all-new compact crossover SUV is available in one trim level, with the option of a standard colour or a two-tone with black roof, priced at $31,990 or $32,990 respectively (+ORC). This single-spec model is well-equipped with features, including heated seats, a 360° camera, a headsup display, and wireless phone charging. Under the bonnet is a frugal 1.5-litre mild-hybrid petrol engine that utilises regenerative energy to assist with acceleration, achieving a fuel efficiency of 5.4L/100km. The Fronx is fitted with a six-speed automatic transmission and paddle shifters on the steering wheel, which also gives it a sporty feel. The exterior features distinctive styling while the interior offers a modern and practical design.
MG ZS TURBO
The all-new MG ZS lineup now includes a sporty turbo variant. Under the hood, a 1.5-litre turbo-charged petrol engine produces 125kW and is paired with a smooth continuously variable transmission. The ZS Turbo retains its distinctive design, featuring new wheels, lights and bumpers that enhance its overall aesthetic and gives the compact SUV a sporty charm. The turbo variant is exclusively offered in the high-spec Essence trim, which features heated seats, a 360° camera, leather-like PVC upholstery, and a large 12.3-inch central touchscreen with navigation and the MG Pilot system. The ZS Turbo has a claimed fuel consumption of 6.9L/100km and is available for $34,990.
VOLKSWAGEN ID. BUZZ
As the modern-day successor to the original Kombi van, the new ID. Buzz uses the same platform as the ID.4 and is available in four flavours, including the Cargo, short- and long-wheelbase Pro variants, and a high-spec GTX. A single 210kW electric motor powers the rear wheels, while the GTX features an additional 40kW electric motor on the front wheels, providing 4MOTION all-wheel drive. The drivetrain provides swift acceleration and a responsive drive that resembles a car more than a van. The highly configurable ID. Buzz offers multiple seating options and features various paint and wheel options, allowing buyers to customise their vans. Prices start at $114,990 for the Cargo, while the top-range GTX starts at $149,990.
VOLVO XC90 T8 PHEV
LEAPMOTOR C10 ULTRA HYBRID
The C10 Ultra Hybrid is the latest medium-sized SUV from Chinese automaker Leapmotor. It’s designed for ultra fuel economy and has an impressive range of 1,000km; just don’t expect any sporty performance, as the 58kW electric motor is the only power source. The C10 does have a 1.5-litre petrol engine, but it isn’t connected to the wheels; it’s only used to charge the 28.4kWh battery. The C10 is stylish and features heavy influences from Europeanstyle SUVs on the outside, while the interior features a minimalist design with a large 14.6-inch Android-based central touchscreen and built-in wifi. With a five-star safety rating and a very competitive price of $49,990 +ORC, the potential of this five-seater SUV is enormous.
New wheels, front bumper, grille and headlights combined with an updated dashboard have provided a fresh, luxurious feel here. A ‘twin-charged’ (super-charged and turbo-charged) 2.0-litre petrol engine and electric motor produce a combined 335kW and 709Nm of torque; the electric motor, paired with a 14.7kWh battery, provides around 60km of zero-exhaust driving between charges. The ride is exceptionally smooth, thanks in part to the optional air suspension which monitors the road ahead. And it’s quiet, with noise insulation reducing road noise, and it has a Bowers & Wilkins sound system. The XC90 boasts 668 litres of storage space, extending to 1,874 litres once the rear seats are fully folded down. The starting price for the new XC90 T8 PHEV is $161,990.
Scan the code to read more car reviews, or go to aa.co.nz/cars/car-reviews
Fuel economy ratings are available for these models. To compare fuel economy and safety ratings across other vehicles, go to rightcar.govt.nz
BUYING A NEW CAR?
Note: Costs are current at time of print and exclude On Road Costs. ancap.com.au
The AA Motoring Services team test-drives new vehicles. Their detailed, impartial reports are available at aa.co.nz/cars , along with ANCAP safety ratings.
48
Riding high
We explore the rugged backcountry of Tairāwhiti Gisborne by bike.
52
A classic loop
A South Island road trip circles from Christchurch to the West Coast and back again.
55
Special culture
A trip to South Korea reveals many surprises.
Top Spot
Actor and Director Lucy Lawless shares where she travels to when out of the spotlight.
ONE OF MY FAVOURITE places is Gisborne. It’s visited very little by tourists; it’s not on the way to anywhere, and I think the locals like that about it themselves, that nobody goes there unintentionally –you’ve got to want to be there.
It’s a great community. I have friends there and I visit several times a year. There’s a lot of tree planting going on. Because I’ve flown a bit in my life, I’m trying to offset my impact on the environment.
When you’re out in the boondocks you’ve got to be very self-reliant and figure out how to fix stuff yourself. I love manual work and being out in the field. I’m quite mechanical. When something goes wrong with the mower on the back of the tractor, I can strip down and re-grease the PTO [power take-off] which is not difficult at all, but arduous.
The planting is all encompassing. I always come away needing to see a chiropractor, but the work itself is very nourishing for the soul.
Lucy Lawless stars as fearless private investigator Alexa Crowe on hit television series My Life is Murder, now in its fifth season and airing on TVNZ1 and TVNZ+. See aadirections.co.nz for the full interview.
PERFECT DAY
Michael Botur revisits the magical Poor Knights Islands.
Anyone enjoying a couple of days in Northland can find restaurants, marinas, swimmable water, abundant sea life, chartered fishing, luxury accommodation, lighthouse lookouts and bush-clad mountains.
Want all these features in one place? Check out Tūtūkākā, 30 minutes east of Whangārei, and be prepared for the obligatory question from the locals: “Done the Poor Knights yet?”
They’re referring to the cluster of islands 22 kilometres out to sea, visible from most parts of the Tūtūkākā Coast.
It costs around $245 for an adult on the Perfect Day cruise to the islands with Dive! Tūtūkākā, an operation known for its deep investment in eco-friendly tourism, on-board hospitality and the possibility of a shower after your snorkel, dive, kayak or paddleboard.
Last summer, I returned to the Poor Knights for my third Perfect Day trip. It was six hours of Lou Reed’s song looping blissfully in my head while everyone aboard regularly rushed to the sides of the boat to appreciate sightings of surfacing fish, seabirds, and the marvellous blues of the huge Rikoriko Cave.
Don’t expect an island tour; no one is allowed to so much as touch the rocky foreshore. But there is a 100% chance you’ll see two dozen species of colourful fish including full-grown snapper, kingfish and other game fish. Chances of seeing seals and dolphins are high. Exotic species frequently seen in the temperate waters include sea turtles, giant sunfish, manta rays, whales, sharks and, very occasionally, whale sharks.
The Poor Knights were given their quirky name by Captain Cook who in 1769 described the islands as resembling lumps of a ‘Poor Knight’s supper’, a dessert like bread and butter pudding. There’s another theory that the islands look like a knight lying in repose.
Around the time of Cook’s visit, Māori began visiting the islands to collect food. After the Ngātiwai colony was decimated by a tribal invasion, the islands became tapu in 1823. Erasing all trace of humans, weeds and wild pigs from the islands intersected with increased interest in diving in the 1970s. Marine reserve status followed in 1998.
The islands’ reputation was helped hugely when, in 1979, French oceanographer Jacques Cousteau claimed they were one of the best diving
sites he’d ever been to. TIME magazine named the Poor Knights one of The World’s Greatest Places of 2024 because Dive! Tūtūkākā made accommodation, staffing and diving inclusive for people with disabilities.
“The ocean is a great leveller; none of us should be there, and yet we all can be,” Dive! Tūtūkākā’s owner-operator Kate Malcolm says.
Like the ocean, Dive! Tūtūkākā has experienced plenty of swells over the past five years, including the high of the company’s 25th anniversary and the troughs of both co-founders Jeroen Jongejans and Anthony Malcolm dying, Covid lockdowns, Tūtūkākā Marina
being damaged by a tsunami and Northland’s main highway route being closed off after Cyclone Gabrielle and making the journey difficult for visitors coming north from Auckland.
Despite it all, Kate says 2025 feels “genuinely back to normal.”
She organised a night’s stay for me in Lodge 9 luxury apartments. Built a few years ago, the gorgeous – and wheelchairfriendly – accommodation is an easy stroll or roll to bars, boats and other local attractions.
The night I stayed, a wedding party celebrated. The next morning, the staff who put out our breakfast of chia, yoghurt, salmon, capers, coconut and
coffee told me that despite the previous week’s weather bomb, bookings at Lodge 9 were healthy.
Explaining why the luxury apartments were a little hard to find, lacking obvious signage, Kate told me: “We have it on a nice little down-low – it’s something people are still discovering."
“We haven't been pushing it too hard, but it’s a nice add-on that people can stay here as well as going out on the water with us.”
Perhaps it helps make one perfect day stretch overnight and on to the next.
1. The underwater world of the Poor Knights is extraordinary. 2. Welcome to a special Northland spot. 3. On board with Dive! Tūtūkākā. 4. Schools of fish around the islands. 5. While noone is allowed to land on Poor Knights, the boat takes its passengers close. 6. Snorkelling! 7. Inside a sea cave.
Michael Lamb finds history and adventure in the hills above Tairāwhiti Gisborne.
They’ve tamed the Waioeka Gorge. Once a dark, Mordorlike traverse between Ōpōtiki and Gisborne, now the road is gleaming asphalt perfection, the scenery leaning into the light.
If you hang a turn at Matawai, about halfway through the gorge, you wend your way to an extraordinary little town called Motu. It sits inside a lush volcanic plateau flanked by craggy peaks, like the serrated sides of a flan tin. They’re a reminder we’re on the edge of the Raukūmara Range, a huge swathe of forest running all the way from the East Cape to Te Urewera. It’s a stretch to call Motu a ‘town’; these days it’s the whisper of one, a shadow. But a shadow with a remarkable history. “Used to be seven banks and a 100room hotel here,” says Ron, one of the
locals involved in Motu Community House, a former post office now excellent village-run accommodation. We’re basing ourselves here to cycle the Pakihi Track, a 20km downhill slalom through emerald green forests and alongside steep river drop-offs.
After almost a year out of action in 2023, the track has been resurrected, thanks to an army of local volunteers who have cleared slips, lugged rocks and chain-sawed fallen trees. It is back on the map as part of the Motu Trails on the Great Rides of New Zealand.
But the Pakihi Track almost never existed at all. Long before the Motu Road or the gorge road were built, it was the proposed route from the Bay of Plenty to Poverty Bay, to avoid the long haul around the coast. The plan was hatched around 1900 and a cutting put
through. Given the diabolically steep terrain and vulnerability to thundering floods, that seems the product of a fever dream rather than sane planning.
It was notoriously tough. Take this report from the Poverty Bay Herald in 1911: “The impression exists that persons can get to Motu from Ōpōtiki by following the uncompleted Pakihi Track. This is not so. On four occasions men unacquainted with the nature of the country have attempted it […] one party became bushed and only regained their starting point after great privation. Another started and did not return – he either got through or died. Last week one more started, got bushed, and returned with his mental equilibrium decidedly upset.”
On a morning that swung indecisively between mountain drizzle and bursts
PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICHAEL LAMB
of sunshine, we make the long, legdraining 17km ascent from Motu to the start of the track. Of our eclectic group of six riders – two architects, two writers, a heritage furniture restorer and a psychotherapist (much-needed for mental equilibrium) – only one is going electric. The rest of us puff up the hill with pedal power.
We get to the trailhead and the Pakihi soon shows it has all the thrills of a fairground attraction and none of the artifice: we plunge headlong into nature, down through a forest of kamahi, tōtara and rimu, the pathway steep and narrow.
For some, the switchbacks and tight turns encourage a more leisurely pace, though the adrenaline rushes are there if you want them. After 11km and a 400m descent, just as the nīkau palms are starting to replace the kamahi and rimu, we arrive at the track’s lone DOC hut. It’s a goodie: old-school tin, rugged bunks and not a charging point in sight. Just a fat-bellied woodburner for when the cold closes in.
We move on. The track gets more intimate with the Pakihi Stream and as the afternoon drifts on, we roll over a suspension bridge and follow the river’s edge. Giant boulders in the water and the odd section of track crushed by stone falls are a reminder that nature is in charge here. This is proper, tough backcountry. That said, some of the residents are from the more delicate end of the spectrum: a sign tells us this is home to the tiny, rare and endangered Hochstetter's frog. We portage our bikes here and there – the heavy electric one takes two to lump it – and slip along the narrow, rock-faced ‘balcony’ pathway. The big drop-offs to the river add excitement; little signs saying
‘Stay focused!’ are well-meaning, if ironically distracting.
As our legs start to tire, we finally pop out the end of the ride – a DOC rest area at the confluence of Pakihi and Orukutia waterways. Someone mentions this is where famed bushman and author Barry Crump lived for about 10 years, and where he wrote the book that the Hunt for the Wilderpeople film is based on. After a drink from water bottles we attack the nine-kilometre stretch of gravel road to our meeting point with the shuttle, and the drive back to Motu.
The next day we move on for a couple of recuperative nights at a remote hill-country retreat south of Matawai, towards Tairāwhiti Gisborne. On this side of the gorge the trees have been long cleared into vast farm tracts, yet there are oases of green and one of them is a place called Haurata.
Run by Jane and Warwick Tombleson, Haurata farm retreat is set up for both relaxing and exploring. We’re welcomed at the converted woolshed with glasses of red wine and lunch; dogs slumber in front of a roaring wood fire. Jane and Warwick are perfect backcountry hosts. They love to share the place and to tell stories, helped by the fact the area around Haurata is spiked with history.
One of the many carefully curated walks takes you to the pā site on Ngātapa mountain, 2,000m above sea level. Here, a grim chapter in New Zealand history played out when Government forces brutally killed supporters of church-leader Te Kooti, in revenge for a massacre at Matawhero. Te Kooti escaped the pā, less a middle finger shot off, down a sheer drop and into folklore. Besides walking itineraries, there are the large gardens to wander through, with fruit trees, an odd henge of spherical boulders and a tī kōuka cabbage tree-dotted labyrinth. Even better, there’s a hot tub.
On a pristine, windless autumn morning we pile into an old ute and Jane drives us to a nearby high point – you can tell it’s high because of the phone and relay masts everywhere –and lets us take in the full breathtaking magnificence of the views. ‘Sweeping’ doesn’t capture it: from Old Nick’s Head in the south up through the Bay of Plenty and over to Te Urewera, it is 360° of folded green hills. Its history, hard years and good years, are writ large on the landscape.
See aa.co.nz/travel for travelrelated Member Benefits, including guided cycling tours.
1. The high hills of Haurata. 2. The Pakihi Track suspension bridge. 3. Farm walk at Haurata. 4. Rest and repairs at the Pakihi Track DOC hut. 5. Cycling the Pakihi Track.
Sometimes when travelling around Aotearoa you stay somewhere that exudes a special sort of magic. Ōkārito is such a place. It has that perfect alchemy of natural beauty, ruggedness, history and isolation. This unassuming seaside village is half an hour north of Franz Josef, and 13km off State Highway 6. There is not a fancy shop or restaurant to be found, instead there’s a wonderful sense of time standing still as you are drawn into its embrace. It is the perfect bolthole to unwind.
We arrived at Ōkārito later than anticipated and had to find our accommodation in the dark. Fortunately, The Tower was easily spotted. We quickly unloaded the car and settled into our quirky but perfectly appointed digs.
Waking early, we were keen to explore. Staying in May meant the
village population was down to around 30 people. It was quiet and still. We walked just a few minutes and came to the edge of what is the soul of this little community – the Ōkārito Lagoon. Over 3,000 hectares, this wilderness is the largest unmodified coastal wetland in New Zealand. It is a rich feeding ground for a prolific array of birdlife including the rare and elegant kōtuku or white heron. We were hoping above all else to see one. With a population of only 100 to 120 in New Zealand, and with most leaving their breeding ground just north of Ōkārito over the winter months, we were not sure of our chances. Much to our amazement and delight one was wading through the tidal water stealthily seeking its prey, just metres from us. We were mesmerised.
The haunting beauty of the wetland edged by lush rainforest with the Kā
Over 3,000 hectares, this wilderness is the largest unmodified coastal wetland in New Zealand. It is a rich feeding ground for a prolific array of birdlife including the rare and elegant kōtuku or white heron.
Tiritiri o te Moana Southern Alps imposing itself on the lagoon’s landscape enticed us. On two consecutive days we explored its reaches. Ōkārito Eco Boat Tours is run by Swade and Paula. Their flat-bottomed open-air boat, the Explorer Douglas, is the perfect way to gently cruise the lagoon and the narrow waterways. They know the wetland intimately, having lived here for years, and while we absorbed the scene, they shared their knowledge of the local history, ecology and current conservation efforts. The boat tour was a wonderful way to get a sense of the wetland, an opportunity to completely relax and take in the unadulterated magic of this ancient place.
The next day we headed back into the wetland in a double sea kayak. As a novice I was nervous but quickly got the hang of it and, fully kitted out, we were safe and comfortable. We got into a rhythm and enjoyed the solitude as we were the only ones out paddling.
It is difficult to express just how entrancing the wetland is, the vastness of the lagoon, the scenic intensity of the inland waterways with towering stands of ancient kahikatea. The cloud lifted
Ruth Low finds magic in a hidden corner of Te Waipounamu South Island.
just enough for Aoraki Mount Cook and Mount Tasman to tease us with their presence. Being almost winter the plethora of migratory birds were no longer gorging themselves in the tidal waters but there was still birdlife including tarā nui Caspian terns, takakau shags, kōtare kingfisher and of course, the kōtuku.
When not on the water we were either relaxing at The Tower or out walking. Information boards scattered around sites, like Donovan’s Store and the old boatshed, speak to the village’s goldmining history and the tenacity of the
European settlers who called this place home. The driftwood-strewn beach with the Tasman Sea battering the shore was the perfect tonic for blowing out any lingering cobwebs and the steady climb up the trig exercised our legs after the upper body workout of kayaking. From the top, we were rewarded with wonderful vistas over the wetland.
Hoping to see the rowi, Ōkārito’s own rare kiwi, we came down the hill on dark. Fortune did not favour us but the sound of ruru morepork was reward enough.
For Māori, Ōkārito, named after the Māori Chief Kārito, has always
held great significance. The bountiful resources of the wetland meant it was an important mahinga kai, food gathering site and also a place of learning. Ngāi Tahu rangatira once travelled here to seek knowledge of whakapapa genealogy of Te Wai Pounamu South Island. After five days of rest and leisurely exploration it is easy to appreciate the esteem they held for this place. Ōkārito had woven its magic.
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1. The view from the trig down to the lagoon and out to the Tasman Sea. 2. A sky-blue mushroom, also known as werewere-kōkako. 3. Ōkārito's old wharf. 4. The elegant kotutu white heron nests near Ōkārito's tidal lagoon, where easy food is plentiful. 5. Kayaking is one of the best ways to explore the extraordinary wetlands.
A South Island
CL A SSIC
Guy Frederick travels from coast to coast and back again.
Awindless day is a perfect day to start a journey. Satisfied with an early morning toe-dip in the Pacific Ocean, I share the beach with a group of swimmers moving in unison as though drawn magnetically to the rising sun. It’s one of those out-of-the-box days at Ōtautahi Christchurch’s Sumner Beach which is the starting point of my three-day journey.
Leaving the city’s commuting traffic behind, the route tracks north with the still snow-specked Southern Alps sitting to the west. Knowing I’m entering the realm of those mountains, I feel a noticeable shift on turning inland onto SH7 at Waipara, a change of pace that helps me unwind.
Towns become sparse and there’s a growing sense of space as the landscape transitions from the plains to rolling hills. The adjacent railway passes through the graphic limestone landscape of Weka Pass before coming to the end of its journey at nearby Waikari.
Hills morph into mountains and the rivers run deeper, faster and bluer. On entering the Lewis Pass National Park the beech forest closes in on the road as
it winds smoothly to the summit. Driving through the dappled flickering light of this grand boulevard of green, the surrounding mountains appear through the forest as glimpses on a grainy Super 8 film.
Spots to stop for photos are rare, so the Lewis Pass summit provides the opportunity to do so and breathe in the 360° panorama. A 20-minute loop track is a cracker to stretch the legs and admire moss and lichen in an ecosystem that inspires wonder.
A short descent after Lewis Pass leads to the geothermal Maruia Hot Springs. The one-stop wellness complex includes a wealth of mindful and relaxationinducing activities including guided sauna infusions, steam and zen rooms, and group classes. At the centre of it all sit the mineral-rich natural pools tastefully landscaped with rocks, tussock and natives that look to a vista of spectacular scenery.
Two divine French specimens, completely naked and comfortable in their skins, wander serenely between the pools. I have no qualms that swimsuits would be completely wasted on them. With the pools open 24 hours to guests,
I take the opportunity for an early morning soak and gaze at the steam swirling up into the Milky Way that gradually surrenders to the dawn. The babbling Maruia River flowing west provides the backing soundtrack. I follow the river’s direction to continue the journey and stay with the theme of nature immersion; the road to Reefton passes through Victoria Forest Park. This is a place that’s resolutely reserved for bush, mountains and rivers, where forest bathing can take place a mere metre off the road. The historic town of Reefton provides a chance to connect with a slice of human heritage by wandering the streets of restored buildings that celebrate its pioneering roots.
The town is also synonymous with the Reefton Distilling Company with its range of Little Biddy spirits, named in honour of the four-foot-tall gold miner Bridget Goodwin. The Irish born miner worked in the Buller Gorge area in the 1860s and by all accounts enjoyed her gin.
Approaching the West Coast, the road runs alongside the Buller River all the way to Westport where it empties into the rolling Tasman Sea. A brief side trip to nearby Cape Foulwind with its lighthouse provides a sense of the long sweeping geography of the coast looking north towards Karamea, and Paparoa National Park to the south.
The road south becomes confined to a narrow passage between the bush and the Tasman Sea; nīkau palms play the starring role as they majestically line the coast-hugging route. Cribs, clearly constructed in the era before rules, nestle in nooks and crannies amongst the rocky outcrops that jut out into the sea. Signs for blackwater rafting, cycling and glowworm tours, highlight the multitude of activities available in the area.
However, I have my sights set on Punakaiki for the second night, as the jewel of the crown on this insanely scenic coastline. As a hitchhiking university student, I first visited the small settlement making my way from Dunedin to the Rangitikei at the start of the summer holidays. I recall a sense of discovering a location that felt exotic, not of this country, and it’s a feeling that’s stayed with every visit since.
Now the entry or exit point for the Paparoa Great Walk, Punakaiki is home to the iconic Pancake Rocks.
1 Looking to the headwaters of the Waimakariri River. 2. Reefton's Oddfellows hall was constructed in 1872. 3. Soaking in nature at Maruia Hot Springs. 4 The famous Pancake Rocks at Punakaiki. 5. Panagairi Visitors Cenre and Paparoa Experience in Punakaiki. 6. East of Arthur's Pass the highway traverses the Craigieburn Range.
The stunningly designed Punangairi Visitor Centre and Paparoa Experience, sitting in perfect harmony with its surroundings, is a great recent addition.
Opposite the Centre is the Pancake Rocks loop track. Seeing the blowholes in action is impressive, but a visit during calm conditions is also great. I watched Aoraki Mount Cook to the far south turn gloriously pink in the morning light. Walking back to the village, the towering cliffs behind act as a magnificent amphitheatre by reflecting and amplifying the sound of the rolling ocean.
Another essential walk, just up the coast, is the 30-minute return Truman Track through native rainforest to an isolated rugged beach complete with sea caves and waterfall cascades. It’s the entire West Coast captured in a perfect morsel. Driving down the coast, the Tasman Sea disappears in the rear mirror as the road turns inland towards the Southern Alps. A short 10km detour to the salamifamous town of Blackball is worthwhile,
if only to visit the Blackball Museum of working-class history.
Set informally outdoors, the exhibition tells the town’s fascinating story that spans coal mining and the rise of worker strikes that led to the formation of the
trade union movement and eventually the Labour Party. The Blackball Workingmen’s Club is located directly across the street. It also houses the MSA (the Mutual Society of the Arts), which feels symbolic of modern-day Blackball melding its working-class and creative communities.
The route back through the mountains skirts Lake Moana before narrowing through gorges and squeezed by spectacular peaks surrounding Arthur’s Pass. There are several places to stop and admire the awe-inspiring beauty of it all, including one overlooking the engineering marvel of Ōtira Viaduct. Travelling through the more arid mountains east of Arthur’s Pass, the final leg of the journey over the Canterbury Plains awaits at the bottom of Porters Pass.
Guided by the distant beacon of the Port Hills back to Christchurch, the New Zealand-famous Sheffield Pies is a popular kai stop on this stretch of road. If there’s room left for dessert, perhaps save a spot for an icecream back on Sumner Beach.
Back at the spot where the journey started, hordes of beachgoers and even the squarkless-seagulls seemed at peace. In fact, it was hard to feel otherwise in the mellow spring conditions that, even 60 hours later, remained breathlessly still.
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7. Restored buildings on Reefton's main street celebrate the town's pioneering roots.
7
CHRISTCHURCH
Blackball
Punakaiki Westport Reefton
Maruia Hot Springs
Weka Pass
Waipara
Arthur's Pass
Ōtira Viaduct Lookout
Kathryn Webster gets a taste of South Korea in big city Seoul and on sweet Jeju Island.
Through binoculars North Korea looks sad, with hardly any trees and a thin scattering of ghostly buildings. Alison tells me the buildings are just façades.
We’re at Aegibong Peace Ecopark, in the military-controlled Civilian Control Zone, from where tourists can look over to the other half of Korea. About 50km from the centre of Seoul, the park is at the confluence of two rivers – the Han which runs through the city and one from the north. They move west together.
It’s my last day in Korea and while I can tick off ‘see North Korea’, the best part of the experience is spending time with Alison. She’s a freelance guide, contracted by Wendy Wu Tours to look after me for half a day, and is a wealth of insight into life in this fascinating country.
Several days on this whirlwind trip to Korea involved Wendy Wu guided tours. A Seoul City Tour on the day I arrived packed more than I could possibly have experienced unguided. That day, the guide was Grace. She loaded me with details of Korea’s distinctive culture.
A busload of us started with a visit to Jogyesa Temple. Zen Buddhist worshippers were doubled over in prayer on a dark wood floor before three huge gold Buddhas. I tiptoed around, trying not to intrude. Wide steps lead down into the surrounding park to a white-barked tree surrounded by a fence covered in decorative balloons, colourful flags and plastic flowers. People lit incense to carry wishes around a stone pagoda.
Gyeongbokgung Palace, where the royal family once lived, is a place that’s been destroyed and rebuilt several times. Here, we watched the theatrical changing of the guards ceremony. Actors in extravagant costumes conducted synchronised marches to the music of reedy trumpets, brass horns and conch shell blasts, accompanied by thumps of deep bass drumming. Feathers bounced, flags flapped, feet stamped. Many, many tourists shared our enthusiasm, straining to see, holding phones high in the air.
We followed Grace through a series of gates into the palace grounds as she talked about Feng Shui, the balance of landscape and buildings, the location of various halls – the party room, the King’s chambers, behind it and within
a short dash, the Queen’s rooms. We learned about the inevitable squabbling and jealousy that swirled around the court, the rituals and restrictions, the importance of maintaining the line.
It surprised me to see many people wearing Hanbok, traditional Korean clothing. Women swished about in long, wide skirts with high waists, widesleeved bodices in shiny, glamorous fabrics, some diaphanous with several layers. Men wore wide-legged pants, long coats cut on angels and hats that seemed to just perch. I learned later that Hanbok can be hired and that wearing it grants free access to the palace.
1. The changing of the guards ceremony at Gyeongbokgung Palace is an impressive experience. 2. Tourists wearing Hanbok, traditional Korean clothing.
At the far end of the palace, Grace led us to the National Folk Museum for a soak in art and culture, a reminder that nothing can be taken for granted geo-politically (Korea has been invaded hundreds of times) and some insight into the importance of family to Korean people.
There’s a traditional ritual performed for one-year-olds who are presented with various symbolic items and allowed to choose one. Innocent, curious fingers grab at their destinies, at careers in law or medicine, or as KPop or sports stars. Perhaps they’ll chose the knot of rope and be blessed with a long life.
Next, to Insa-dong, a colourful and tantalising retail district famous for antiques, crafts, boutique clothing, jewellery, paper, ceramics and traditional tea houses.
We stopped at a Ginseng Centre, then headed to N Seoul Tower for views of the city from the surrounding park where we looked across the great sprawling city, surprised by how hilly it is.
The last stop of the tour was at Bukchon Hanok Village to wander around traditional Korean houses, restored for posterity. Grace showed us the kimchi urns half buried to keep them cool. Inside low-ceiling wooden houses, we could see elegant furniture and detailed art. She shook her head describing how the women were relegated to inner rooms in these compounds, to be near the kitchen. “Not on!’’ she says, crossing her forearms in an X. “No more.’’
In a taxi the next morning I made my way to Gimpo Airport through Seoul’s wide streets past small parks with shade and public art. We crossed the Han River over one of many impressive, multi-lane bridges. Skyscrapers loomed as far as the eye could see – 30 to 40-storey apartments, business blocks, commerce humming.
At the airport, waiting for my flight to Jeju, I was surprised to see dogs scurrying behind their travelling owners. A child, maybe three years old, stared at me. I seemed weird, I couldn’t speak her language, and I looked different – but she returned my smile, and I said “Hello’’ in English. Her grandmother whispered to her and the girl clambered off her plastic chair, faced me and bowed.
On Jeju Island I checked into a hotel with views to the open sea. Jeju has two centres – old downtown and new downtown; I stayed in the old bit.
Other
traditions kept going on Jeju include Haenyeo women who freedive for seafood, following a matrilineal practice going back several centuries. They famously hold their breath for a long time and can stay in the water for several hours.
At a nearby night market, I bought sticky dumplings and freshly-squeezed tangerine juice.
In the morning, I boarded a tour bus to explore the south west corner of Jeju. The island is volcanic and its cocoacoloured soil, its temperatures, wind and rainfall are perfect for growing citrus and tea. At the O’sulloc Tea Museum, sipping a sample of green tea, I learned that fog provides natural shade for tea leaves to develop vivid colours.
We passed greenhouses, high-hedge windbreaks and fields bordered by rock walls, some planted along their edges with lolly pink and cerise petunias.
As we reached Sanbanggulsa, the famous fog rolled in. The temple was half shrouded, the weather exaggerating the poetic quality of its old bones.
Small, colourful Buddha statues in lotus positions, beatific smiles on perfect faces, lined the way to a shrine where Buddha waited, looking kindly over prayer wheels, hydrangeas, and a massive bell in an elaborately and colourfully painted wooden cradle.
That evening I returned to the same night market for a noisy dose of activity, wandering past tanks of live eels and fish, past dried seafood, cooked chickens, mountains of citrus, boxes of
Public art on Jeju acknowledges the island's famous diving women. 7. The climate of Jeju Island is perfect for tea growing. 8. Multiple statues lead to a Buddhist shrine on Jeju. 9. Street food is a constant temptation in Seoul.
Jeju’s east coast was on the next day’s itinerary, travelling up the middle of the island to walk through a cedar forest, and to visit a small farm where millet rice wine is made using traditional processes.
Other traditions preserved on Jeju include the Haenyeo women who freedive for seafood, following a matrilineal practice going back several centuries. They famously hold their breath for a long time and can stay in the water for several hours.
A zigzag path down the beach was busy with tourists. Four Haenyeo women were kitted up in wetsuits, their masks perched on heads, flippers in hand. They performed a short ritual to bring luck and ensure safety, then slipped into the tide, holding baskets attached to buoys and made their way out into the bay. Soon, one of them held up her catch: an octopus.
Back on shore, they worked fast, flashing knives, flipping abalone and conch out of their shells, chopping sea cucumber and sea pineapple and passing loaded plates to people waiting for seafood that could not be any fresher.
Another local delicacy appealed more to me: tangerine ice cream. Due to a slight misunderstanding, I bought a very large one, so big that it dripped down my arm, faster than I could lick. I couldn’t keep up! The melt was winning – when a smiling young woman striding by with a group of friends handed me a tissue.
Jeju Stone Park opened in 2007 to showcase the stone culture of Jeju. Stone figures, or guardians, can be seen all over the island but are particularly well
maintained here along with stone posts, basins, charms, towers and muddles –some ancient, some modern – creating an extraordinary garden of rocks. I added a stone to a teetering muddle to make a wish. It balanced, so my wish will come true.
On the roof of the park’s geological museum, the Sky Pool is a massive shallow pond built at eye-level. Its shimmering skin of water held the reflection of pale grey sky and thin, lazy clouds creating a calming, pleasing balance.
The following day, back in Seoul and back to familiar Namdaemun, I discovered a busy market just around the corner from the hotel selling T-shirts, socks, linen, everything – plus street food. Further along Namdaemun Road were massive department stores with all the luxury brands – Chanel, Burberry, Louis Vuitton et al, and a food hall in the basement with a luxe market, fresh produce, cafés, bakeries, chocolatiers. It was all too overwhelming and besides, with just one night left, a Korean meal was called for. I was the only non-local in the place but was welcomed and was soon enjoying a spicy tofu stew that cost around NZ $12.
I talked to Alison about the food, the market and my travels to Jeju, as we drove to Aegibong Peace Ecopark for my peek at the other world, the hazy valleys of North Korea. She spoke with pride about the Haenyeo divers and with enthusiasm about her country’s progress. I sensed from our conversation that life in Seoul was good to her. She had opportunities, she had confidence.
As we parted ways at the airport, we exchanged a quick hug and I realised her friendliness, generosity and positivity epitomised, for me, the spirit of South Korea.
The writer travelled to South Korea with the support of Korean Tourism Organisation, Korean Air and Wendy Wu Tours – see wendywutours.co.nz
3. A temple in a cedar forest on Jeju Island. 4. Local guide Alice at Aegibong Peace Park. 5. Jeju's Haenyeo women prepare the freshest possible seafood for lunch. 6.
TOP 20 Must do’s in Korea
Your go-to guide for those chasing culture, nature, epic food – and a bit of K-Pop sparkle.
Cultural Gems & Must-Sees
1.Gyeongbokgung Palace (Seoul)
Step into Korea’s royal past at this grand palace built in 1395 during the Joseon Dynasty. Watch the colourful changing of the guard – a perfect photo moment – and imagine life here over 600 years ago.
2. Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) Tour
For an experience far from the ordinary, the DMZ Tour is a must. Just about an hour from Seoul, this is a journey that must be taken with an accredited guide for both security protocol and historical understanding. It’s an unforgettable and one-of-a-kind emotional experience, only found here.
3. Andong Hahoe Folk Village
A UNESCO World Heritage site and one of Korea’s 16 UNESCO listings, this scenic riverside village keeps Joseon-era traditions alive. Expect thatched roofs, lively mask dances, and a true feeling of time travel – with distinguished families who have lived here for centuries still calling it home.
4. Jeonju Hanok Village
Known as Korea’s “Cultural Capital,” Jeonju offers traditional stays, artisan crafts, and streets brimming with history. It’s also where bibimbap (a colourful rice dish topped with seasoned vegetables, meat, and a spicy-sweet sauce) was born and locals say it still tastes best here.
5. Gamcheon Culture Village (Busan)
Formed by Korean War refugees who built their homes in a unique staircase fashion on the foothills of a coastal mountain, Gamcheon Culture Village is now a vibrant artistic community. Its many narrow alleys are filled with colourful murals and creative sculptures made by local residents. Today, it’s a popular destination in Busan, attracting visitors eager to explore its charming streets, quirky cafés, and photogenic corners.
Foodie Adventures
Worth the Flight
6. Gwangjang Market (Seoul)
Beloved by locals and visitors alike, this buzzing market is packed with sizzling street eats – from crispy mung bean pancakes to addictive mayak kimbap (bite-sized seaweed rice rolls filled with vegetables, famously addictive for their savory flavor). It’s lively, delicious, and full of everyday Seoul life. This is one of Korea’s oldest traditional markets, running since 1905.
7. Jagalchi Fish Market (Busan)
Taste the freshest, most colourful seafood straight from the sea. Adventurous eaters can try live octopus – a true Busan rite of passage. Most stall owners here are “Jagalchi ajummas” –tough, charismatic women who run the market with humour and flair.
8. Temple Stay & Buddhist Cuisine
Unplug, breathe mountain air, and savour simple vegetarian temple meals. Some temples sit deep in nature, while others are surprisingly tucked into the heart of Seoul – easy to reach for a mindful escape.
Scenic Spots & Nature Breaks
9. Seoraksan National Park
Jaw-dropping peaks, pine forests, and tranquil temples – plus a cable car for an easy summit with epic views. The park is a designated natural reserve, home to around 1,292 plant species and 1,936 animal species, making it a treasure trove of biodiversity on the Korean Peninsula.
10. Jeju Island
Just an hour by plane from Seoul, Jeju feels like a world apart. Volcanic landscapes, waterfalls, and golden beaches set the stage for adventure, while legendary haenyeo – female free-divers – showcase centuries-old traditions. Relaxed and vibrant, it’s a favourite holiday escape for Koreans and a must-visit for travellers.
11. Boseong Green Tea Fields
Boseong Green Tea Fields offer endless green hills and fresh, clean air. Visitors can participate in experience programmes to pick tea leaves themselves, then enjoy
tasting fresh green tea and savouring its subtle aroma and flavour. It's also a treat to try a variety of green tea-infused foods like ice cream and bread. The stunning landscape is a popular backdrop for movies and dramas, making it a famous spot for photos as well.
12. Cherry Blossom Season (Spring)
Late March to early April sees Korea burst into soft pink. The Jinhae Gunghangje festival is the biggest, but Seoul’s Hangang riverside paths and Gyeongju’s historic sites make for magical strolls.
City Vibes & After-Dark Fun
13. Myeongdong (Seoul)
The beating heart of Seoul shopping – skincare, fashion, and street snacks galore. Centrally located, it’s a hit for all ages with endless things to browse, taste, and take home.
14. Hongdae & Itaewon (Seoul)
Hongdae buzzes with creative energy, street performances, and quirky cafés. Itaewon blends global flavours, rooftop bars, and vibrant nightlife.
15. Night Hikes on Namsan or Inwangsan
See city lights from peaceful mountain trails – safe, scenic, and often even better than a rooftop bar. These trails are welllit and patrolled, making them safe even late at night.
Quirky, Cool & Totally Korean
16. K-Pop Dance Class or Studio Tour
Step into the world of Korea’s biggest export – learn a routine or peek behind the scenes at a real entertainment studio.
17. Hanbok Rental & Palace Photoshoots
Dress in vibrant traditional hanbok and capture palace or village backdrops.
Bonus tip: palace entry is free if you’re wearing one!
18. K-Beauty – Glow, Snap, Repeat Korea is the world’s ultimate beauty playground. Test out the latest makeup at Olive Young, try innovative skincare at trendsetting esthetical clinics, or book a dermatology session for professional treatments. Leave Seoul with radiant skin, insider beauty secrets, and a gallery of picture-perfect moments – the kind that will have your friends asking, “Where did you get that glow?”
Special Interests & Passions
19. Autumn Foliage Hikes –Nature in Fiery Colours
Korea’s mountains transform into a painter’s palette of reds, oranges, and golds from late October to early November. Trek Seoraksan or Naejangsan National Park for crisp air, serene temples, and photo-perfect scenery. City escapes like Seoul’s Bukhansan also offer stunning hikes framed by the autumn skyline – a mix of urban energy and natural beauty. Every step feels like walking through a living postcard.
20. Winter Ski Resorts –Korea’s Snowy Escapes
Just a few hours from Seoul, Gangwondo’s top ski resorts – including Yongpyong, Alpensia, and Vivaldi Park – offer world-class facilities set against stunning mountain scenery. From gentle slopes for beginners to thrilling runs for seasoned skiers, there’s something for everyone. After a day on the snow, explore nearby towns for hearty local specialities – steaming hot stews, freshly made dumplings, and other regional treats – that will warm you from the inside out. Skiing here isn’t just about the sport; it’s a chance to enjoy Korea’s winter charm at its very best.
Kathryn Webster, AA Directions’ Editor, travelled to South Korea, courtesy of Wendy Wu Tours and Korea Tourism Organization. Discover a full range of Korea Tours by scanning the QR code here:
Music for the ROA D
Brett Atkinson takes a trip along Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way.
It’s Friday night in Ireland’s County Mayo. After an easy three-hour drive northwest from Dublin, we’re ensconced in the cosy cocoon of the low-ceilinged snug at Matt Molloy’s, owned by the flautist of the legendary Irish band, The Chieftains. On the wall above us, Molloy’s musical credibility is reinforced by a signed photo of past collaborator, American singer-songwriter Bonnie Raitt, but tonight the focus is on an equally talented group of County Mayo locals, coaxing yearning centuries-old melodies from their combination of fiddle, banjo and guitar.
Celebrating the driving route’s 10th anniversary, we’re toasting the beginning of a road trip along some of the most spectacular sections of the Wild Atlantic Way, the meandering, often coastal, 2,600km driving adventure linking Kinsale in County Cork all the way north to County Donegal’s rugged and remote Malin Head.
With an occasional tractor circling its clocktower roundabout, Westport’s gentle Georgian blend of tourist town and rural service centre sits at the eastern end of Clew Bay. According to locals “there’s 365 islands in the bay, one for every day”. The scenic scattering of low-slung islets and rocky outcrops includes Dorinish, a slender eighthectare island bought by John Lennon in 1967 and owned by Yoko Ono until 1984. Now Dorinish is populated only by sheep but is usually sighted on Clew Bay cruises departing from Westport.
Our own destination on a day trip from Westport is Achill Island, the bay’s largest island, and linked to the Irish mainland by the Michael Davitt Bridge which swings open to let boats through. Northwest Ireland’s reputation for changeable weather is intact; misty squalls roll in as we drive across Achill’s interior of peat bogs framed by ancient stone walls. The improbably compact Lynott’s Bar – reputedly Ireland’s smallest and self-described as “a small pub not for the fainthearted. Public speaking encouraged and an ideal location for debates and non-amplified singing” – would be an ideal refuge, but opening time is still several hours away.
Housed in scatterings of whitewashed cottages, Achill Island’s contemporary population is less than 3,000. That's down from a mid-19th-century high of over 4,500, and around the abandoned village of Slievemore historic echoes still linger. During the 19th-century’s years of famine, and impacted by increased rents on their small plots of arable land, Slievemore villagers either emigrated from the island or moved closer to the ocean to more easily harvest seafood. Decades later and draped in drizzle and shapeshifting banks of mist, exploring Slievemore’s skeletal remains of stone-walled houses is like being absorbed into a black-and-white movie. Nearby Neolithic archaeological sites reinforce earlier human habitation stretching back 6,000 years.
1.Writer Brett Atkinson on the Wild Atlantic Way. 2. Keem Bay, Achill Island.
Celebrating the driving route's 10th anniversary, we're toasting the beginning of a road trip along some of the most spectacular sections of the Wild Atlantic Way.
and information at the centre is proudly bilingual. We drive and then walk to a viewing platform high above the Atlantic at Bunratty Point where local guide John McGroary translates Sliabh Liag (Slieve League in English) to Mountain of the Flagstones.
If Achill Island’s 21st-century locals need to be hardy, its woolly four-legged population is even more hardcore. As we negotiate the narrow clifftop road to famed Keem Bay, scores of County Mayo’s famous blackface mountain sheep crowd the route or secure the most exposed and elevated points on the sea cliffs.
Descending via switchbacks, banks of coastal cloud finally part to reveal the glorious cove featured in the recent Irish tragicomedy, The Banshees of Inisherin
Even better blue skies and sunshine elevate the next part of the journey northeast to Strandhill. A summerfriendly brace of food trucks – gelato and wood-fired pizza – feature along Strandhill’s esplanade, while surfers are weaving and bobbing in decent-sized waves offshore. Our own Strandhill experience is more relaxing, easing into a half-hour session at VOYA Seaweed Baths where a silky amalgam of locallyharvested seaweed and warm water may well be the perfect detox to the velvety pints of Guinness I’d been enjoying.
Yet another perfectly poured pint features later in Sligo Town, bisected by the River Garavogue, linked by stone pedestrian bridges, and imbued with a literary heritage including poet and writer, W.B. Yeats, and Bram Stoker,
the creator of Dracula. Like Westport, Sligo’s also big on traditional Irish music, and after a quick appraisal of the gigs spilling out from riverside pubs, we settle into Sunday evening twilight at the raffish Shoot the Crows. Compared to Matt Molloy’s in Westport, it’s a thoroughly impromptu affair, with local musos drifting in and out with their instruments. Between-songs banter is equally improvised. In a compact city of just 20,000, there are around 10 nearby venues offering a similarly relaxed musical experience.
From County Sligo we cross to County Donegal, the northernmost county in the Republic of Ireland. To the north, a spur of the Wild Atlantic Way continues along the Inishowen Peninsula to Malin Head, mainland Ireland’s northernmost point.
We’re maintaining a westward trajectory to an equally spectacular location. Venturing on coastal roads that become increasingly narrow and serpentine, a final downhill detour on the accurately named Wee Road south of the village of Carrick brings us to the Sliabh Liag Cliff Experience & Visitor Centre. As a Gaeltacht region, this remote part of Ireland is predominantly Gaelic-speaking; signage
Energised by gusty winds, views include scree-covered and emeraldcoloured slopes rising from the sheltered waters of the bay; John points out the distinctive rocky islets known locally as the ‘Giant's Chair and Table’. To the west, Europe’s highest accessible sea cliffs stretch to tower over the isolated Gaeltacht villages of Malinbeg and Malinmore.
Wispy clouds finally clear to reveal patches of cobalt sky. Silhouetted on the cliffs’ ridgeline, a group of hikers are following a spidery 4km trail known as the Pilgrim’s Path to the coastal tarn of Lough (Lake) Agh.
After the monochrome, misty mountain vibe of Achill Island, we’re now travelling in technicolour. Almost three times as high as the more famous Cliffs of Moher to the south in County Clare, Sliabh Liag is a remote destination that truly puts the wild in the Wild Atlantic Way.
The writer travelled with the assistance of Tourism Ireland and Fáilte Ireland.
Insure your travels. A 10% discount on travel insurance is available for AA Members – see aa.co.nz/insurance
3. On a craggy peak at Sliabh Liag. 4. The picturesque Sligo Town. 5. Westport Town clock tower. 6 Live music at Matt Molloys, Westport.
Ticking all the
Stylish, low cost, climate positive and fast to build. Kathryn Webster checks out the Living House.
STEPPING INTO THE LIGHT-FILLED Living House is like stepping into a familiar embrace. Instantly welcoming and warm, the open-plan hub of the simple home rises to a high-gabled ceiling and out to the world beyond through generous windows. And so, first impressions, it’s a big house in a small space, a big heart in a tidy body.
There is wood everywhere – laminated pine with knots and swirls exposed on walls and ceiling. The galley kitchen gleams with a polished stainless-steel benchtop, sleek appliances slot into place supporting the home’s simple aesthetic. A design element has electrical cabling encased in black tubes.
Off the living space are symmetrical wings – on one side, two bedrooms and on the other, one bedroom and a combined bathroom and laundry.
Service fittings are exposed here, too, with ducting and pipes for plumbing and heat pumps adding a mildly industrial feel.
So far, so stylish. But what makes this show home extraordinary, what excites the man behind its design, is its low cost, the health and sustainability of it, and the speed at which it can be built.
Rich Naish is an Architect with RTA Studio, an award-winning practice associated with high-end home and commercial design. The Living House project came about in response to New Zealand’s housing crisis, with his team looking for a solution that would cost less and be of better quality than other designs at the lower end of the new-build market.
Their research indicated Government builds cost at least $585,000. This prototype, sitting on a suburban Rotorua site, cost $335,000 to build. That’s for everything from the foundations up, including plumbing and electrics, basic bathroom fittings, kitchen cabinetry, appliances, and elements to make the home comfortable and efficient – wool carpet, passive venting, heating and cooling systems and solar panels. How did they do it?
“Labour usually accounts for around 40% of the cost of building a house in New Zealand. For this system, it’s around 10%,” Rich says. “Reducing labour costs was one of the keys to getting the overall cost down.”
The three-bedroom Living House is made up of 36 cross-laminated timber panels, delivered to a building site on one
truck. It takes two or three people around six weeks to build.
“Pre-cut panels also means zero waste,” Rich adds. He explains that surface mounting the electrical and plumbing systems allows easy access for tradies, so that work is ticked off fast, too.
Kitchen units are in one piece, pre-built and effectively plugged in, along with Fisher & Paykel’s Haier brand appliances.
And in the spirit of making things easy, building consents are sorted. “We sell the pre-consented plans and design package including a MultiProof approval so the consulting process is faster and cheaper. Also, supplier agreements are part of the deal, with pre-negotiated prices.”
to paint the interior, build shelves and wardrobes or install a fireplace. They could choose to add more solar panels and buy storage batteries if they wanted to be completely off grid. Having shown the concept to prospective private buyers as well as council, Government and iwi housing providers, the show home and the land it’s on will be sold at cost.
And while work starts on designing two- and one-bedroom versions of the Living House, plans for the threebedroom can be bought for $10,000.
“Not bad for an architecturally-designed house plan,” Rich points out.
“It was designed to solve a problem, not make money. If it does make money,
The Living House project came about in response to New Zealand’s housing crisis ... a solution that would cost less and be of better quality than other designs at the lower end of the new-build market.
People can partner with a local builder, as the team did in Rotorua where one was built to prove the concept.
“It made sense to build here because it’s a typical Kiwi town, with typical Kiwi builders. The CLT (cross-laminated timber) was new to them, but not difficult. They hadn’t worked with panels but it is an intuitive build and it went smoothly.”
It’s a shell fit for purpose, but owners can add their own elements to make it their own. New owners might elect
that’s a bonus. We just want to cover the costs of running the Living House project.
“RTA Studio’s values include being socially minded and sustainability minded. We want to give back to the community, and we’re interested in projects that solve problems. That was our motivation for the Living House, the hope that it will contribute to the social housing solution.”
See livinghouse.nz for more details.
SPR ING INTO ACTION
Call in the AA Home experts to get ready for the change of season.
THERE’S NOTHING LIKE BLOSSOMS, bees and a dawn chorus to inject a little spring in your step. You’ve survived the winter grind, the days are growing longer, and the promise of a lazy hot summer lies ahead.
But is your home feeling as springready as you are? Winter can play havoc with our most valuable asset – so protect yours, and prepare for the warmer months, by giving your home a spring Warrant of Fitness (WoF).
House washing is a great place to start. Over winter, your home’s exterior can accumulate dirt, mould, algae and grime, which not only reduces kerb appeal, but in time can degrade surfaces. Take pause before you strap on a water blaster though. High pressure can damage wood and painted surfaces (and create another pesky job for your to-do list).
AA Home recommends low-pressure soft washing for a gentle but deep exterior clean (think all the polish without the damage and water ingress risks). The team organised by AA Home will also clean and protect your paths and driveway, keep slippery algae at bay for up to 18 months, and breathe fresh life into decks and fencing.
Don’t forget your gutters and downpipes. Your home’s silent guardians, gutters direct rainwater away from your roof and foundations, but if they get clogged with debris from a wild winter they can become a recipe for leaks and mould growth. Gutter cleaning is a task best left to the professionals, who will remove all the organic debris from gutters and downpipes and inspect your rainwater system to ensure there is no chance of flooding. They can also clean your roof and extend its life with a longlasting moss and mould treatment.
Garden focus
With outdoor entertaining back on the menu, make tidying up the garden another spring priority. Remove dead
plants, prune back shrubs and rake up leaves to create room for new growth. Turn over soil in garden beds and power them up with compost or fertiliser. Tackle weeds early – consider mulching to help retain moisture and suppress future growth – and show your lawns some love. Mow them high for the first few cuts and reseed bare patches. Or if you are short on time, call in the experts. All your lawn and garden maintenance needs, from garden clean up, rubbish removal and hedge and tree trimming, through to weed control, lawn mowing and new lawn installation can be looked after by AA Home.
Sort inside
Once the exterior of your home is spring-fit, it’s time to head indoors. Has the winter weather caused any leaks? Whether it’s a dripping tap, a mysterious puddle under the sink, or water stains on the ceiling, don’t bury your head in the sand. Small issues can have big consequences, and ignoring leaks can lead to costly water damage
or mould issues. Inspect under sinks, around windows, behind toilets, and on ceilings and walls for signs of moisture. A small fix now (like replacing a washer or sealing a gap) can save you a fortune in repairs down the road. For anything more serious, book a plumber or home handyperson through AA Home. While you’re at it, book in a heat pump service. Your heat pump has likely been working double time this winter, and in another few months you will want to be powering up the air con. Regular maintenance and servicing is critical for the efficiency of your unit. In fact, if you don’t remove airborne dirt and dust from filters and coils your power consumption could skyrocket by up to 35% (or worse still, fail completely). Heat pumps and air conditioners need to be serviced annually to ensure peak
performance, continuous comfort and maximal lifespan and AA Home can help with this, too.
Power check
Spring is also the ideal time to update your home’s electrical set up, whether that’s installing a new appliance, integrating smart home features, replacing outdated light fixtures or sprinkling your abode with a little newseason magic. Illuminate your freshly revitalised garden with some layered outdoor lighting (add some festoon lights to amp up the spring fever) and install ambient lighting along paths and driveways in preparation for warm weather entertaining. Remember, when it comes to all things electrical, safety is key, so book a qualified electrician through AA Home for peace of mind. Highly skilled, trusted and reliable, AA Home’s team of electrical professionals will ensure everything is up to code and running safely – and that leaves you with more time to pour a drink, pull up a deck chair and truly appreciate the joys of spring.
Find everything you need for a home WoF at AA Home. Head to aa.co.nz/homeservices to check out our services and book a job online.
PHOTOGRAPHS
EMMA BA SS Meet the ma ker:
Monica Tischler meets a photographer creating joyful, uplifting works of art.
FORMER NURSE TURNED PHOTOGRAPHER Emma Bass describes her transition into capturing floral images as a calling. One day, she placed flowers in a vase, lit them as she would the portrait of a person, and something other than her camera clicked.
“I felt a pull to create more personal work. I realised I wasn’t simply photographing flowers, I was composing emotional narratives through them,” the Auckland creative says.
“I began making these arrangements during a difficult period in my life; working with flowers brought me joy. So, I kept creating and, in turn, the work began to uplift others, too.
“It became a quiet cycle of beauty and healing, shared through the lens.”
You’d be forgiven for thinking the perfectly imperfect compositions of technicolour flowers – blush peonies, cobalt hydrangeas, roses, dahlias, poppies and pansies exploding from vases like fireworks – are masterpieces from an experienced florist. But Emma’s approach is entirely photographic, guided by an intuitive sense of composition developed over years behind the camera.
“I approach my floral portraits much like composing a classical still life – not as a florist, but as a photographer who’s always worked with light, balance and form,” she says.
Each artwork is part of a limited-edition series – no reprints are made once an edition is sold out. Pieces begin with an instinctive response to a bloom or object, followed by a slow, intentional process of arranging, lighting and capturing the moment, paying close attention to rhythm, negative space and emotional resonance. The compositions are built in real time, guided by the rules of visual harmony that Emma has used throughout her photographic career.
Emma describes her central Auckland home as a Garden of Eden – “lush, abundant and overflowing with botanical beauty” – the perfect place to feed both eye and spirit. She sources blooms from her own garden, as well as from friends, family,
local florists and roadside forages. She arranges them in her extensive collection of vintage vases making compositions with life, character and a little unruliness.
“I like when things feel slightly off-kilter, a little wild, a little human. Nature is my constant muse; its beauty never ceases to ground and astonish me,” she says.
Since she first began creating in her home studio overlooking her garden, Emma has sold artworks to private collectors. Many of her photographs also adorn the walls of hospitals, hospices, oncology units and wellness centres across the country, because flowers have the ability to lift the human spirit, something Emma witnessed first-hand during her years working as a nurse.
“In healthcare environments, where stress and vulnerability are often heightened, the presence of flowers has an immediate and palpable effect. They soften the space, bring a sense of calm, and remind people – patients and staff alike – that beauty still exists, even in difficult moments,” Emma says.
Studies have shown that flowers reduce stress, lower anxiety and elevate mood. And there’s also something deeper at play.
“Flowers are universal symbols – of love, celebration, remembrance and renewal. They speak a language we instinctively understand. Their fleeting nature mirrors our own – the way we bloom, fade, regenerate. That impermanence, instead of being sorrowful, can feel strangely comforting. It’s a reminder to be present, to notice, to feel. In that way, flowers are not just decorative,” Emma says.
AA Directions has a 30 x 30-inch unframed Emma Bass floral portrait titled Gladness (pictured top right) valued at $400 to give away.
To enter, send your name and contact details to: AA Directions, Emma Bass, PO Box 5, Shortland Street, Auckland 1140. Or enter online at aadirections.co.nz before November 30, 2025.
Hard lessons, SILVER LINING S
Marton resident Mike Hart's home was destroyed by fire in a matter of minutes. He shares his experience with Monica Tischler.
A ROUTINE EVENING for Mike Hart and his partner Sarah, watching television in their pyjamas, became life-changing after a fire erupted in the master bedroom of their 100-year-old brick bungalow.
“I ran to the kitchen to grab the fire extinguisher but by the time I got back, the room was engulfed in flames,” Mike recalls of the evening in July last year. “I couldn’t get within a metre of the bedroom. It was terrifying and happened so quickly. I thought, ‘we’re stuffed’ and said to Sarah, ‘let’s get out.’”
Although they safely escaped with their pet dog and cat, every possession was lost, including sentimental items from Mike’s late grandparents and Sarah’s late sister. They watched the home they had shared for over a decade be consumed by flames. Investigators later determined the fire started due to a faulty multi-board.
“One minute we’re watching TV, life’s good, and minutes later we are outside in the cold watching our house burn down, with nothing but our pyjamas and phones.”
Even in the midst of his anguish, Mike knew there were lessons to be learned. The father of three wanted to share his experience with others in the hope it would prevent it from happening to someone else.
With support from Fire and Emergency NZ (FENZ) and the Marton volunteer fire service, whose station is just across the
I know we pay our premiums for this sort of thing, but I would be a financial ruin if it wasn’t for insurance; I couldn’t bounce back from something like that.
AAI Chief Operating Officer, Simon Hobbs, says:
Home and Contents insurance isn’t just a nice-to-have, it’s what helps put things right when the unexpected happens. “Your home is more than just a building, it’s where life happens,” he says. “It’s generally your most valuable asset, and the things inside it hold your memories, milestones and everyday essentials.
“Whether it’s a fire, flood, break-in or natural disaster, insurance helps you with practical and financial support to recover, rebuild and move forward.”
Simon says homeowners and renters should ask themselves the following questions: Can you afford to replace everything you own at once?
Can you cover emergency repairs or accommodation on your own?
Could you manage the cost of repairing or even rebuilding your home if it were badly damaged?
“It’s not just about protecting your property, it’s about protecting your lifestyle, your financial future, and your peace of mind,” Simon says. “That’s what insurance is for."
road from Mike’s property, he opened his fire-ravaged house to the community to show first-hand the devastation.
“FENZ determined it was structurally sound, so we could safely bring people through. Sarah and I were there to meet and greet about 600 people including children. It was hard; we were opening our home, our nightmare, basically. But it was good to do.”
A resounding lesson was the importance of being insured, Mike says. With his house and contents covered by AA Insurance (AAI) – his provider for 30 years – Mike’s home was completely rebuilt and completed in August which, along with clean-up fees, he estimates having cost close to $600,000.
“I know we pay our premiums for this sort of thing, but I would be a financial ruin if it wasn’t for insurance; I couldn’t bounce back from something like that.”
Mike, who has a background as a case manager for Work and Income NZ, understands how insurance is often something people on low incomes go without. He urges people to find a way to have cover in place and also regularly review the value of their home’s contents.
What also struck people was how quickly the fire took hold, despite firefighters arriving from the station across the road in as little as 10 minutes.
So too was the importance of investing in a good quality multi-board with a
trip switch and surge protector – and having it regularly replaced – or better still, having an electrician install a power point directly in the wall, Mike says.
“We had a cheap and nasty multiboard that we had bought about three years ago,” he says. “But it wasn’t overloaded. All that was plugged in was
my bedside lamp, which was switched off at the time.”
Mike says it may have been gathering dust under the bed. “A lot of people have since told me they’ve been motivated to check their multi-boards, with one person even finding theirs charred behind the TV,” Mike says.
The support of the community has been humbling, as they rallied around Mike and Sarah in the weeks and months following the fire, and this taught Mike to see the good in trying times.
“We received cash gifts from the community. Someone offered us their twobedroom, fully furnished granny flat to rent immediately after the fire which we used as interim accommodation, supported by a temporary accommodation allowance from AA Insurance,” says Mike, who later transformed a detached garage on his property into a short-term dwelling while the house was being rebuilt.
“It was a tragic and horrific event, and I wouldn’t wish it on anyone, but it’s simultaneously been a really rewarding experience. You learn from the struggles, it’s what develops you as a person.”
See aadirections.co.nz for the full story, including common misconceptions of sum insured content policies and the need to regularly review your insurances.
Home owner Mike Hart, left, with AA Insurance Chief Operating Officer, Simon Hobbs.
me think, ‘I never want to be like that.’ Having said that, I did end up getting myself into a lot of debt in my early 20s.
Tell us about that experience.
I was 22, had my first job, and it was great. I was working for the orchestra, making more money than I’d ever had. The mistake I made was getting a credit card. I like to talk about these things so that people know it’s normal to find yourself making dumb financial decisions that you’ve got to recover from.
You’re an advocate for property investment. Why?
The biggest difference around investing in property as opposed to shares or managed funds is the leverage side, the fact you can borrow money against it. Small percentage movements in the housing market can end up making a big financial difference to the person owning the property. It’s being able to use the debt, which is kind of funny given how we talk about it being a bad thing!
There’s no denying some Kiwis are doing it tough. With your economic commentator hat on, can we expect some relief in the next year or two?
Over the next 12 months, about 75% of mortgages will reprice. So, Kiwis who would have been paying very high interest rates on their mortgages are going to get a bit of relief. I think that will flow through into spending and we may see a little bit of a mood shift.
Splurging on credit cards aside, do you consider yourself a spender or a saver?
Monica Tischler meets Ed McKnight , Economist at Opes Partners, who is also a podcast host and author with a passion for performing arts. He shares his financial journey, from being in debt to owning multiple properties.
Tell us about your background. When I was a teenager, I really wanted to be an opera singer, but it became quite clear that performing arts was not going to be the career path for me. I don’t think I was good enough to make it. Luckily, the world of business, property and finance was also a passion.
Those interests could be seen as belonging to two very different worlds. Admittedly, I used to feel a little embarrassed when I’d say to my music friends that I’m working in investments and economic commentary. For a while I felt like a bit of a sellout. But I’ve gotten over that now and realised I can be in
both. In fact, I’m about to put some money into a professional musical that’s being produced in New Zealand. There are different ways you can support the causes that you care about.
Who, or what, do you credit for your relationship with money?
I’ve been thinking a lot about my mum lately. She raised four kids on her own, on a single income. I have no idea how she did it. One of her jobs – which I think was quite impactful – was as a case manager at Work and Income New Zealand. She went on to work at a debt recovery company and all the stories I’d hear about people being in debt made
I just bought a really expensive coffee machine; it was a couple of grand and some people may say, “well, you could have invested that!”And I’d say, “yes, but I really wanted it!” If I have money left in the account, that’s my spending money for the week and I have no guilt in spending all of it because that’s what I’ve allocated.
Apart from enjoying good coffee, what do you do in your spare time?
I’m really into cookbooks. I enjoy finding a recipe I’ve never done before, spending a Sunday afternoon preparing something and then having friends around for dinner.
For more, see opespartners.co.nz
The Property Academy Podcast and the book Wealth Plan which Ed McKnight co-hosts and co-wrote are available online and on podcast services.
Motoring vs Mobility: what does the future AA look like?
We chat with Jonathan Sergel, Chief Mobility Officer, about his role at the AA and the changes that Members can expect to see from the Association in the future.
Tell us a bit about your background. How did you end up at the AA? I grew up in a car family. My dad, uncles and grandfather were all involved in the motor industry, so I’ve always been around cars. Is ‘car tragic’ a description that could be used?
After university in Christchurch, I got into the rental car business, then started my own company, called Kiwi Car, alongside my father.
In the early 2000s I moved into a corporate role with a company called Lease Plan based in Wellington. Then, I had the opportunity to move up to Auckland to work for Turners. I was at Turners for more than 12 years, starting off as national account manager and ended up as head of cars. Unfortunately, I never met Tina.
So, renting cars, leasing cars, financing cars and then selling and buying cars. There is a theme here! I came to the AA because it was an opportunity to be right at the centre of the industry as it was going through this big change with drivetrains – from internal combustion engines to hybrid and EVs. It plonked me firmly in the middle, which is a great place to be because we’re Switzerland, we’re brand agnostic.
Tell us about the AA’s newly amalgamated Mobility division. Mobility brought together three quite distinct operating areas: the roadside solutions business, which is Roadservice; Driver Training and Government contracts – so, learner drivers and licensing, though we’re much more than just licensing. And then we’ve got the Motoring Services piece, which is cars, cars and more cars.
The way I talk about it is cars, driving and drivers.
But from a Member perspective, we want mobility to be about more than just
cars. Mobility means different things to everyone. In our context, I want it to be seen as products and services that allow our Members to tap into the AA through whichever form of transport they want to use. We’re always going to have a focus on personal car ownership and cars, but we really want to open it up to public transport, even walking, cycling, rideshare, carshare, and all the different forms of vehicle ownership, which may be subscription, leasing or owning.
We’ve dipped our toe in that water. We’ve now got Mevo as a carshare provider. We’re working on a rideshare
opportunity. We’re looking at how we can loop in AA Membership with public transport. There’s a lot going on!
From our Members’ perspective we also want to offer information to help them make informed decisions about what their next vehicle might be, with all the pros and cons. Whether that’s an emphasis on emissions, or fuel economy, or drivetrain – we want to be in the space where we’re giving people the information to make informed choices.
What do you enjoy most about your role and the challenges that come with leading such a diverse division during this period of change?
I think you’d probably get a different answer from me every day! It is the diversity of what we do that’s so interesting. We’re everything from an online information provider through to physically touching a car with servicing, to face-to-face interactions doing a driver licence via the Centre Network.
We get the biggest opportunity to deliver on our Members’ expectations on a day-to-day basis. That could be anything from replacing a windscreen, to servicing a vehicle, to checking someone’s potential new pride and joy and saying ‘yes, that’s a good one, you should buy that car.’
AA Roadservice completes approximately a job a minute, every hour of every day. That’s amazing. But we’re also delivering over 100,000 driving lessons each year. We did around 160,000 vehicle inspections last year.
I have never worked in an organisation like this before. Every organisation thinks that they’re unique; we fundamentally are.
What are you most proud of?
I’m probably most proud of the teams that deliver everything we do. There are millions of touchpoints each year, and to achieve the level of customer satisfaction that we do is an incredible thing.
With my role, it’s not up to me – dare I say it – to actually go and do anything: I don’t show up on the side of the road, I don’t inspect the vehicles, I don’t deliver the driving lesson, but my job is to empower the people that do. That’s one of the best things that I get to do.
NEW SERVICES FROM AA HOME
AA HOME BOOK A JOB has launched new services for Members and customers, adding to the great range of existing Book a Job options.
Through AA Home you can now book professional carpet cleaning, moving services, exterior cleaning for your home and garden maintenance.
AA Home National Manager Nalini Dutt says this is an exciting time for AA Home. “The launch of these new services helps us to build on the value we provide for AA Members and our AA Home customers.”
We tend to underestimate how much time and effort moving house takes. AA Home and partner Smart Express takes the hassle out of lugging furniture across town or packing up a daunting pile of boxes. Whether you’re moving house, downsizing or needing to relocate an office, AA Home’s moving services have it covered.
And maybe the carpets are not looking their best in your new abode or your old one? AA Home can help sort that, too. When it comes to breathing new life into carpets and upholstery, AA Home’s partner Chem-Dry can take care of jobs from deep cleaning to tackling stains.
Plus, just in time for spring, AA Home can get your home sparkling clean and your lawn and garden under control, too. AA Home’s partner Wash Rite provides professional exterior washing, driveway and gutter cleaning to ensure your home looks its best as
the weather warms up. You can also tackle that garden to-do list, including hedge trimming, lawn mowing and weed control with AA Home’s partner, Lawn Rite.
AA Members, AA Home subscribers and AA Insurance policy holders can get a 10% discount on AA Home Book a Job services. See aa.co.nz/homeservices to find out more and tick those tasks off your to-do list today.
Completing the picture
SUPERGOLD CARD or SuperGold
Veteran Card holders can have their photo added to their card for free at any AA Driver Licensing outlet around the country. What to bring: Your SuperGold Card. Three forms of ID, including one that was issued more than two years ago.
Name change document (if you have changed your name).
Your photo will be taken at the counter; there’s no need to supply your own – and an updated photo card will be posted to you.
Enquire at your local AA Driver Licensing outlet and the team will be happy to assist you, or see aa.co.nz/ about/identity-verification/ for more.
Better aa.co.nz
IF YOU’VE RECENTLY been online to our website – aa.co.nz – you’ve probably noticed a few changes.
Earlier this year we significantly refreshed our website to provide a better experience for our Members and customers.
The all-new aa.co.nz features a fresh, clean layout and a more intuitive design, making it easier to navigate. Some of the key pages, including the homepage, Membership page and Motoring page have been redesigned to be more userfriendly, with many more improvements still to come!
Visitors are now able to quickly and easily find what they’re looking for from the wide range of AA products and services, including Member Benefits, auto centres, car reviews, driver training information, maps and, of course, great content from AA Directions magazine. Go to aa.co.nz to explore the new site.
Mevo on the move
MY FIRST MEVO experience does not start well. There is no car.
Standing at an intersection in downtown Auckland, my location arrow in the Mevo app tells me that I should be right next to a Suzuki Swift, but there is nothing but bare concrete.
With the clock ticking on the countdown to rush hour, I call the support line. Zoe from the Mevo team apologetically resets the Swift’s GPS and directs me around the corner to where it is parked on the side of the road. My phone vibrates; the doors click open and I’m ready to begin my trip.
From that point, Mevo’s carshare system proves to be smooth sailing. Or, more accurately, driving.
With vehicles dotted around inner-city streets available to hire at the tap of a screen for as long as you need them, Mevo is an easy and cost-effective way to get around.
So, how does the system work?
A Kiwi-owned and operated company, Mevo first launched in Wellington at the end of 2016 and has grown to include Hamilton, Auckland and most recently Nelson.
The platform operates as a blend of technology and accessibility – making it easy to use a car when you need one and not having to worry about it when you don’t.
“The average car, which is people’s second largest purchase after a house, gets used on average 4% of the time,”
More for all
New AA Auto Centres now open.
states Erik Zydervelt, Mevo’s Founding Director and CEO. “That means that we’re spending the second largest sum of money in our budgets on something that sits around unused 96% of the time.”
That inefficiency, combined with the costs, environmental and social impacts of having so many vehicles clogging up our city roads was what propelled Erik and co-founder Finn Lawrence to find a different way of doing things.
“You know technology is really good when it feels like magic,” Erik says. “Mevo is about as complex as calling an elevator. You open the app and tap the screen to find your car. You tap again to unlock it. That’s it.”
And thankfully, as I discovered, there is a real human support team just a phone call away who can help in the case of a technical glitch.
When it comes to parking, the Mevo team has negotiated access to council operated streetside parking spots.
“Residential, time restricted – all of those are fine,” Erik says. “Councils like to work with us because we help to reduce emissions, congestion and increase productivity.”
The Mevo platform operates on a time-based system, although different tiers of vehicles are charged at different rates – a Tesla or BYD costs more per hour than a Suzuki Swift. “You pay by either
THERE ARE NOW more than 40 AA Auto Centres across the motu following the recent opening of three new sites – in Auckland and Napier. The opening of the Silverdale AA
the minute, the hour or the day,” Erik explains. “The minutes tick up for around 24-25 minutes, then you switch to the hour rate, meaning the rest of that hour is effectively free. You pay per hour until you get to five hours, and then you’d get the day rate. If you’re using a vehicle off-peak – from 5pm until 9am – you get the whole evening but only pay for two hours.”
Fuel or charge is also included in the pricing if you’re taking a longer trip – up to 200km per day is included – but most vehicles are fuelled and ready to go. “If you do need to fill up, you can pull into any BP and refuel directly with the Mevo app,” Erik says. “The app knows where you are so you pick your pump and the app will unlock it. We take care of the payment. For EVs you can charge at any Chargenet station, and it’s all done through our app.”
As with rideshare, there is an additional charge to pick up or drop off a Mevo at an airport, but the convenience factor is astonishing. I finish my Mevo experience at Auckland Airport. There’s nothing quite like parking the car in a designated spot right next to the terminal, unloading luggage into a trolley, tapping my screen one last time and walking away.
AA Members can get up to $100 of free credit with Mevo within the first year. T&Cs apply. See aa.co.nz/mevo for details.
Auto Centre marks the first location available to residents on Auckland’s Hibiscus Coast. At the other end of the city, a new AA Auto Centre has opened in South Auckland’s Takanini, near Southgate Shopping Centre.
The new opening in Napier’s Corunna Bay, at the former AA-owned entry compliance site, now enables residents to visit their local Auto Centre, rather than commute to Hastings.
World-class theatre for AA Members
AA MEMBERS can enjoy discounted tickets to prime stage shows with Auckland Theatre Company, the latest addition to an exciting array of Member Benefits.
Based at the ASB Waterfront Theatre in Auckland’s Wynyard Quarter, the company has been presenting inspiring productions for more than 30 years.
The stellar line up of upcoming shows includes Tiri: Te Araroa Woman Far Walking from November 4 to 23.
The epic tale follows the life of an 185-year-old matriarch, from her birth at the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi to present-day Aotearoa, exploring the themes of memory, family and resilience.
Agatha Christie’s Murder on the Orient Express takes the stage from February 7 to 15, 2026. The gripping whodunnit outlines the plot of one murder, eight suspects and a train journey that’s about to go off the rails.
AA Members receive a 15% discount on tickets to any Auckland Theatre Company show when booking with the AA promo code AAMEMBER.
See Auckland Theatre Company for more information.
