Q2 2019

SECOND QUARTER 2019 I VOLUME 13

ANYTHING BUT BORING:

HOW GIANT CLAMS CONQUER STONE COLORFUL NUDIBRANCHS OF THE REEF

PLANNING YOUR NEW MARINE AQUARIUM SCROLLING & PLATING SPS FRAGGING GUIDE REEF SPOTLIGHT: EZ550 & A COLORFUL LAGOON

Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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FEATURES 6 ON THE COVER

ANYTHING BUT BORING: HOW GIANT CLAMS CONQUER STONE

Dr. Eric J. Armstrong is a researcher at UC Berkeley studying the biology of giant clams and their algal symbionts.

Using newly developed imaging technology, he and his colleagues have recently unraveled the mystery of how Tridacna clams burrow into solid rock.

Cover image by Lauric Thiault

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THE EZ 550 REEF Glenn Fong lives in Rotterdam, The Netherlands, and is the owner of DSR Technics. This beautiful reef showcases the results that can be achieved with a strict attention to water chemistry and micro dosing, combined with an intimate knowledge of the needs of corals.

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AN INTRODUCTION TO NUDIBRANCHS

Richard Aspinall is a journalist and underwater photographer living in Southern Scotland.

Nudibranchs are some of the most colorful animals in the marine world. Learn about the fascinating adaptations that allow them to exploit their environment and prey.

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PLANNING YOUR NEW MARINE AQUARIUM Keith Moyle is a 40-year veteran reefkeeper and writer on reef topics. Proper equipment choice is the bedrock of a successful marine aquarium.

Read Keith's guide to ensure you get the right equipment for your new setup the first time around.

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SCROLLING AND PLATING SPS FRAGGING GUIDE Michael Rice is the marketing director at Denver aquarium store Elite Reef. This final installment in Michael's popular fragging guide series will walk you through how to frag scrolling and plating SPS like a pro.

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A COLORFUL LAGOON Andrew Orozco has been a reef hobbyist for 7 years and lives in Guadalupe, CA. There has been a recent resurgence of "lagoon-style" reef tanks in the hobby, and this system exemplifies why they're so appealing.

SECOND QUARTER 2019 | Volume 13 Copyright © 2019 Reef Hobbyist Magazine. All rights reserved.

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ANYTHING BUT BORING : HOW GIANT CLAMS CONQUER STONE

DR. ERIC J. ARMSTRONG

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Tridacna maxima clams burrowed into a massive living coral colony on a reef in French Polynesia | Image by Lauric Thiault

W

hether you're snorkeling along the shores of an exotic tropical island or just sitting comfortably at home admiring your reef aquarium, some of the brightest colors you're likely to see will come from something decidedly non-coral. A strong contender for the title of "best dressed" on any reef will almost certainly be a giant clam. After nearly a decade of studying these fascinating animals, I am, perhaps, a tad biased, but it's hard to argue that there isn't a magical appeal to an iridescent clam glittering under a tropical sun or a powerful metal halide. It's this bright tissue (the siphonal mantle) that first draws the eye to giant clams and gives these gentle giants their alluring appeal. It's undoubtedly what first got me interested in reefkeeping. In exceptional cases, the vibrant colors of the siphonal mantle nearly defy description— from deep browns to sapphire blue or even iridescent green and teal as bright and reflective as a butterfly's wings. The iridescent green and teal color morph is especially common in Tahiti, where I've been lucky to conduct my research. Giant clams can literally shine with their vivid colors, particularly when viewed from above.

But what's happening below the clam is just as fascinating. Hidden from sight on the bottom of every giant clam is another type of mantle tissue, much less visually dramatic but no less interesting biologically. This tissue is up to some pretty sophisticated biological tricks of its own and holds the secret of how something as softbodied as a clam can conquer solid stone.

(Left and Above) Bright-blue mantles of Tridacna maxima | Images by Peter Dinh

reefkeeper, the clam can rapidly withdraw its siphonal mantle and close its shell so that its entire body is inside the rock. The clam is thereby fully exploiting the rock as an additional layer of protective armor. For these clams, even the world's largest shell is not enough protection on its own!

Every giant clam starts boring early in life, enlarging its chamber as it grows. For example, on the Great Barrier Reef, even fully grown individuals of T. crocea (10–14 cm [4–6 inches] long and 30–80 years old) remain completely encased within the surrounding coral rock. How the clams manage to effectively bore such large homes

Giant clams (genus Tridacna) have many features that set them apart from other clams and oysters. In addition to their eponymous large size and partnership with zooxanthellae algae, tridacnid clams are somewhat unique in their ability to fully bore into coral rock (the solid skeletal material formed by massively growing corals). This habit is especially prevalent in two commonly available species, the Small Giant Clam (Tridacna maxima) and the real burrowing champion and aptly named Boring Giant Clam (Tridacna crocea).

In nature, these two species are almost always found fully or partially burrowed into coral rocks, with only their brightly colored siphonal mantles sticking out above the rock surface. The rest of the clam's body, including its shell, remains completely hidden from view within a chamber bored in the surrounding coral by the clam.

When disturbed by the passing shadow of a predator or dutiful Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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The pedal mantle is a white muscular tissue that can be expanded enormously by being inflated with blood and which has long been considered a likely candidate for helping clams burrow. In particular, the ability of this thin, paper-like tissue to protrude great distances (including up both sides and sometimes even reaching the top of the shells) suggested that it could play a significant role in shaping and enlarging a giant clam's chamber as it grew. However, the mystery remained as to how such a soft, fleshy, and thin muscle could be used to drill into the solid skeletons of corals. T. crocea, however, has a trick up its shell: the power of acid-base chemistry.

This beautiful clam has burrowed into solid rock. | Image by Nick Hobgood

while continuing to grow their own shells has remained something of a mystery in the scientific community for decades.

There are other clams that can burrow into soft rocks (e.g., piddocks) or wood (e.g., the notorious shipworms), but both use a portion of their shells to physically scrape away surrounding materials. This scraping technique, known as rasping, is a purely mechanical means of boring and requires sharp, durable, tooth-like extensions of the shell (as in piddocks) or a complete modification of the shell shape so that it no longer affords any protection (as in shipworms). Giant clams lack either of these shell modifications. While some species of tridacnids (most notably T. maxima and T. squamosa) do have buttressed shell extensions (the scutes), they are far too flimsy to effectively scrape away stone. Researchers believe they are more likely to play a role as predator deterrents—a spiky clam is harder for a crushing mouth to hold on to!

Perhaps even stronger evidence against the rasping hypothesis, though, is the behavior of giant clams themselves. Mechanically chiseling away at a rock would require a giant clam to be constantly opening and closing its shell, severely limiting the time available to collect light for its zooxanthellae partners. This would be extremely counterproductive for a clam that's modified its whole body in order to collect as much light as possible! How then do giant clams manage to bore such massive holes into coral reefs? The answer lies in the soft, fleshy hole at the back of a giant clam's shell and the rather inconspicuous white tissue found there.

THE PEDAL MANTLE—A SOFT BUT EFFECTIVE DRILL BIT All species of tridacnid clams have a gap in their shells on the underside near the hinge, referred to as the byssal opening. In some species, it is relatively small, while in others, such as T. crocea, it is positively massive. Anatomically, the role of the byssal opening is simple: it allows the clam to extend its muscular foot, which it can use to move around. Ever had a "wandering" clam in your tank? If it finds a spot it likes, the clam can attach itself to the rock using tough, fibrous strands called byssal threads, secreted by a special organ also located at this opening.

However, the especially large opening (relative to other non-boring giant clams) in T. crocea, as well as the observation that another tissue besides the foot (the pedal mantle) also extends from this gap, set researchers on a path to discovery.

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As anyone who's been in the hobby for a while can tell you, acid-base balance is essential for the long-term health of reef aquaria. This is because most stony coral skeletons are composed primarily of calcium carbonate (CaCO3), which is a type of limestone that requires somewhat basic (i.e., high pH) conditions to be formed and readily dissolves in acid. You may well have taken advantage of this chemistry in a calcium reactor, which uses a controlled dosage of CO2 combined with water to make a weak acid. This is then fed through a reservoir containing crushed coral skeleton (CaCO3) in order to dissolve this material and release carbonate (CO32-) into your tank, thus replenishing the ions used up in the skeletal growth of your stony corals.

CO2+ H2O

H2CO3(carbonic acid)

H2CO3 + CaCO3(solid limestone) Ca2+ + 2HCO3-(dissolved bicarbonate)

On a larger scale, this is the same process scientists refer to as ocean acidification, which is causing the dissolution of coral reefs around the globe as we continue to add more and more CO2 to the atmosphere. However, despite these potential negative effects, CO2 is also a natural product of life that every living organism, including giant clams, produces during the process of respiration. Thus, a hypothesis arose that maybe giant clams were taking

Tridacna maxima shells from individuals of various ages showing their byssal openings | Image by author

advantage of this same dissolution process, albeit on a small scale.

Maybe they were using the CO2 produced by their own tissue within the pedal mantles to etch away at surrounding coral skeletons. The difficulty, however, lay in providing evidence for this hunch.

It is safe to say that giant clams generally dislike being poked and prodded—for science or otherwise. To make matters worse, the pedal mantle is located smack-dab in the bottom center of the clam. This makes the pedal mantle difficult to access without throwing a shadow over the clam and causing it to pull all its tissue inside the shell. Fortunately, modern technology was up to the challenge. Recent advances in pH-sensing equipment from the German company PreSens led to the development of incredibly thin pH-sensing foils—the perfect material for sticking underneath a skittish giant clam! If a clam were to sit on a piece of foil long enough, it might be possible to measure whether it was indeed acidifying the water around its pedal mantle and maybe even measure the pH change.

To address these questions, a team of researchers (myself included) traveled to Okinawa, Japan, to collect specimens of the most enthusiastic borer (Tridacna crocea) straight from the reef. Each clam was carefully removed from its natural burrow (a sure sign The pedal mantle has extended outside the byssal opening in this juvenile Tridacna crocea. | Image by Dr. Richard W. Hill

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that these individuals were indeed capable of drilling into rock) and placed in a small, open-topped, acrylic aquarium. In order to make the clams feel safe and comfortable enough to extend their mantles, pieces of acrylic fencing were placed at individually calibrated angles around the clams. Nothing was attached to the clams, and they were free to open fully and extend both the siphonal and pedal mantles at will, which after some time recuperating from handling, they all did. To measure pH at the pedal mantle, a thin square of pHsensitive foil (which changes color when exposed to changing pH) was positioned on the acrylic bottom of each aquarium underneath the clam's byssal opening and just above a sophisticated camera capable of detecting even slight color changes in the foil.

This diagram from Hill et al. 2018 shows the experimental setup used to measure the pH of the pedal mantle. | Image by Hill et al.

With setup out of the way, all that was left to do was sit back and wait for the clams to start settling into their new pH-sensor-rigged burrows. And we didn't have to wait long. Within seconds, the pHsensitive strips were changing from green to red (a sure sign of acidification), and it was obvious that the giant clams were indeed secreting acid from the pedal mantle! What's more, the foil images demonstrated that the area of acid secretion (red) corresponded almost perfectly with the shape of the pedal mantle, thus confirming that giant tridacnids dramatically lower the pH of a surface where this tissue makes contact.

Tridacna crocea clams of all ages tested (1–10 years old) showed evidence of acid secretion (both day and night), suggesting that it is not just young clams that take advantage of this chemical process for boring a chamber into coral rock. What was most shocking, however, was the degree of acidification the clams were able to Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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Taken together, these findings suggest that VHA-mediated H+ secretion is likely a widely used mechanism to dissolve carbonate solids shared across a wide diversity of animal groups.

With VHA as the smoking gun behind the acidification signal sensed by the pH foils, it's now generally accepted that bioerosion by T. crocea is, at least in part, chemically mediated by acid secretion. This discovery has overturned earlier assumptions that bioerosion in giant clams was entirely mechanical.

It also opens the door to investigating what other marine organisms are using VHA and acid-base chemistry to burrow into coral reefs as well. So while the idea of acid-secreting clams may be a weird (albeit true!) one, these burrowing giants are likely not alone in using some sophisticated acid-base chemistry to chisel out a home on a coral reef or in your tank.

R Images of T. crocea byssal opening (i), pH-sensitive foils (ii-v), and pedal mantle (vi) | Image by Hill et al.

achieve. Whereas typical seawater has a pH of around 8 (remember those pH test kit results?), T. crocea clams were able to lower the pH of a contacted surface to pH 6 (about the pH of urine) and in some cases as low as pH 3.5 (the pH of Diet Coke). Although these changes may seem small, biologically they're quite massive because each drop in pH of 1 unit corresponds to a 10-fold increase in hydrogen ions (H+). Given that each H+ can dissolve one molecule of coral skeleton, a change in pH from 8 to 3.5 means roughly 32,000 times more coral is being dissolved where the giant clam's pedal mantle touches than elsewhere on the reef! It turns out that a soft, acid-secreting drill bit is all these clams need to make massive cave-like homes in coral!

For more information about this topic, check out the original research here: Hill, Richard W., Eric J. Armstrong, Kazuo Inaba, Masaya Morita, Martin Tresguerres, Jonathon H. Stillman, Jinae N. Roa, and Garfield T. Kwan.

"Acid Secretion by the Boring Organ of the Burrowing Giant Clam, Tridacna Crocea."

Biology Letters 14, no. 6 (June 13, 2018): 20180047. doi:10.1098/rsbl.2018.0047.

Interestingly, although the pedal mantle acidified surfaces it contacted, additional studies with more conventional pH-sensing materials (including probes) demonstrated that the pedal mantle did not acidify adjacent seawater, only surfaces. This failure to acidify seawater explains why earlier researchers did not previously detect acid secretion in giant clams—a finding that led scientists to rule out the possibility of acid secretion for decades. Only with new 2-D surface-sensing technology was the secret behind T. crocea's coral boring mechanism finally revealed.

However, the question remained as to what it was in the tridacnid pedal mantle surface that allowed them to make and secrete acid. Additional investigation of this tissue at the cellular level revealed the presence of a type of protein called vacuolar-type H+-ATPase (VHA for short). VHAs are enzymes found in nearly all living things that actively work to move H+ ions around within tissue—usually concentrating them together in order to acidify an area or moving them away from an area in order to deacidify that region. For example, we humans use VHAs to remodel and reshape our bones and teeth, and Osedax (a type of marine worm) use it to drill into whale bones. In T. crocea, VHA was especially abundant in the outer layer of the pedal mantle, which was pressed against the substrate, pointing to VHA-mediated H+ secretion as the mechanism of acidification.

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False-color image converting red/green color to pH | Image by Hill et al.

GLENN FONG

THE EZ550 REEF

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he reef tank featured in this article is one of eight reef tanks in my home. As you can imagine, I'm a reef fanatic! In the Q1 2014 issue of RHM, I introduced the Dutch Synthetic Reefing (DSR) method and featured one of my larger mixed reefs. The DSR method is a system I researched and developed. The approach of the DSR method is unique in many ways, but it stands out because it requires no water changes. While this may sound unbelievable to some aquarists, my method is proven by the success of thriving reef tanks worldwide. Without going into too much detail in this tank feature, the success of the DSR method revolves around precise, test-based micro dosing in order to maintain complete control of essential water parameters. More information on this method can be found through the links at the end of the article.

SYSTEM PROFILE Tank Size: 60" × 31" × 20" Sump: 30" × 15" × 12", no compartments System Volume: 145 gallons Protein Skimmer: Tunze 9410 DC Dosing Pump: ATI 6 channel Return Pump: Eheim 1250 (1,200 L/h) Heater: 200 watts Flow Pumps: Jecod CP-40, Jecod OW-25 Mechanical Filter: Tunze e-jet 3005 T5 Lighting: (3) ATI Blue Plus, (2) ATI Coral Plus, (1) ATI Aquablue Special

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LED Lighting Strips: (2) Euroquatics E5 Blue Pop (29 watts), (1) Euroquatics Blue Daylight (30 watts), (1) DIY multicolor (36 watts) DOSING IN JANUARY 2019 (CONSUMPTION) EZCarbon: 16 ml/day EZBuffer: 429 ml/day EZCalcium: 86 ml/day EZTrace: 45 ml/day (calculated using magnesium test results) DSR 2xNO3+: 1.5 ml/day DSR PO4+: 1 ml/day MAINTENANCE & FEEDING - no regular water changes (tank started in April 2015) - feed fish twice daily - clean glass with Tunze magnet every other day - replace filter wool in Tunze e-jet every 3 days - clean skimmer cup once a week - measure and correct for salinity, alkalinity, calcium, and phosphate once or twice a week - measure and correct for nitrate, magnesium, and potassium once or twice a month - clean sump and flow pumps once every 3 months - prune corals to enhance flow and lighting through the reef once every 3 months (if necessary) - replace T5 bulbs once every 6 or 7 months

This is the majority of what I use to support my display.

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Toxic green zoanthids

Tubipora musica

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Tubipora musica

FISH

Goniopora sp.

- Acanthurus nigricans - Amphiprion ocellaris - Ctenochaetus truncatus - (2) Doryrhamphus janssi - (2) Gramma loreto

- Halichoeres chloropterus - Macropharyngodon bipartitus - (4) Paracanthurus hepatus - Zebrasoma flavescens

CLEANING CREW - (2) Archaster typicus - (2) Mespilia globulus

- (10) Nassarius vibex - (5) Turbo fluctuosa

CORALS - Acropora spp.

- Briareum spp.

- Capnella sp.

- Discosoma spp.

- Duncanopsammia axifuga - Euphyllia paradivisa - Fungia spp.

- Goniopora spp.

- Gorgonia spp.

- Herpolitha limax - Isis hippuris - Lobophyllia sp.

- Micromussa sp.

- Millepora dichotoma - Montipora spp.

- Nemenzophyllia turbida

- Oxypora sp.

- Palythoa spp.

- Parazoanthus sp.

- Pavona spp.

- Pocillopora spp.

- Porites sp.

- Pseudoplexaura porosa - Pterogorgia anceps - Rhodactis spp.

- Ricordea florida - Seriatopora spp.

- Sinularia asterolobata - Sinularia dura - Stylophora spp.

- Tubipora spp.

- Turbinaria mesenterina

...And other unknown, forgotten, or unidentified corals

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Walter zoas

These images were taken March 3, 2019, approximately 6 months after the initial images in this article. The coral growth has been phenomenal.

This tank is now on autopilot, running on four bottles of supplements: EZ-Carbon, EZ-Buffer, EZCalcium, and EZ-Trace. They accurately maintain all water parameters in the system. Dosing can be calculated with the simplified EZ Calculator at www.dsrreefing.com/ezcalc20/.

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I use a six-channel dosing pump, of which four channels are used by the EZ system. If required, the two spare channels are available for nutrient dosing.

The majority of Dutch reefers are now running the DSR/EZ system. For more information on the DSR method and EZ system, visit www.dsrreefing.com and www.dsrreefing.nl/forum/index.php.

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Gymnodoris ceylonica

RICHARD ASPINALL

AN INTRODUCTION TO

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NUDIBRANCHS

or what is essentially a small bag of goo, the nudibranch commands a great deal of attention from divers and underwater photographers. Indeed, some people become so obsessed with them that they go to great lengths to record and photograph the rarest ones. There are even nudibranch festivals in hotspots around the world, from the famous Anilao in the Philippines to the nudibranchrich (but less than tropical) Scotland. I certainly have a minor obsession with them myself but haven't yet been able to put my finger on why I find these creatures so compelling. Maybe by the end of this article, I'll have it figured out. But first, let's explore what nudibranchs are and look briefly into their biology.

The first thing people learn about nudibranchs is the origin of their name: "nudi," meaning naked and "branch," meaning gill (a mixed

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derivation here, from Latin and Greek). Look at most nudibranchs, often referred to simply as nudis, and you'll see a cluster of feathery appendages on the animal's back. These are the gills.

In some groups (aeolids, for example), the gills are less visible or even absent and are replaced by tentacle-like projections called cerata. In their simplest form, cerata increase the animal's surface area and aid in respiration.

Aeolid nudibranchs are often heavily adorned with cerata. In many cases, the digestive system extends into these projections, and the cerata may hold nematocysts. These stinging cells are produced by the nudibranch's prey but are not digested when the prey is consumed. Instead, the nematocysts are repurposed. The cells are gathered in the tips of the cerata and stored in cnidosacs.

Thus, the cerata play a role in defense, gaseous exchange, and in many species, camouflage.

The other very visible anatomical features that nudis possess are their rhinophores. Looking a little like bunny ears, these projections often have delicate patterning and structure and are analogous to smell organs in other species, though I think it would be more correct biologically if I refer to them as chemosensory apparatuses.

Whorls and other textures on the rhinophores increase their surface area and allow them to contain more sensory structures.

I've often wondered if it is these structures that make them so visually appealing and give them such a cute demeanor.

Nudibranchs don't rely on chemoreception only. They also have light-sensitive organs, which are able to detect light and shade.

However, we should not consider these to be equivalent to vertebrate or cephalopod eyes.

WHAT ARE NUDIBRANCHS, AND WHERE DO THEY FIT ON THE TREE OF LIFE?

Thuridilla hopei is a sacoglossan from the Mediterranean.

This tiny critter is an herbivore, as are many of its kin.

Nudis are gastropod molluscs. They belong to that vast and wonderful group of animals that includes everything from octopuses Risbecia pulchella, from the Western Indian Ocean, reaches around 2 inches in length and has very noticeable rhinophores.

Aegires punctilucens is a small animal and very well camouflaged. This species belongs to the dorid group of typically small nudis that I have real trouble seeing.

Flabellina pedata is a common species of aeolid nudibranch. This one was photographed off South East Scotland. Aeolids tend to have very prominent cerata. This species feeds on hydroids.

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to cowries and tridacnid clams to top shells. More accurately, they are gastropods that sit within the Opisthobranchia, the marine members of which are often given the catch-all title of sea slugs. The opisthobranchs include several marine groups such as the sacoglossans (sap-sucking slugs and pleurobranchs) and the cephalaspids (bubble shells and headshield slugs).

These are superficially similar to, and may be confused with, nudibranchs. I have to say, in researching this article, I found the taxonomy of the opisthobranchs to be quite difficult to understand. It appears it has been substantially rewritten in recent years and continues to be in flux.

WHAT ABOUT FLATWORMS?

Not easy to see, but you can make out this nudi's two light-sensitive organs close to where the rhinophores attach to the head.

While we're on the subject of what nudibranchs are not, let's quickly get distracted by flatworms. It is easy to see a flatworm and confuse it with a nudibranch. Superficially, flatworms are similar, yet biologically, they are very different since they are a type of worm, as the name implies. Some species further complicate easy identification by having two sensory tentacles on the head, which resemble rhinophores.

Like nudibranchs, flatworms can be very brightly colored.

Depending on the species, this may indicate toxicity, a fact that has not been lost on the Banded Sole (Soleichthys heterorhinos).

This fish not only mimics the physical appearance of a flatworm, but it even moves in a similar fashion, rippling its fins in an undulating motion.

That just about wraps up my very brief introduction to the nudibranchs and where they fit within the plethora of other species we find in the ocean. Let's look a little further into their lifestyles.

Pseudobiceros fulgor (flatworm)

I believe the Banded Sole shown above mimics the flatworm pictured to the left.

You really do have to look twice to see that the banded sole is a fish.

Pseudobiceros bedfordi is a beautiful species of flatworm.

This one is from the Maldives.

Nudibranchs are found all over the world. I've photographed them in warm tropical seas as well as off the chilly north coast of England. For such delicate-looking animals, they certainly seem to be hardy survivors in a wide range of habitats. There are an estimated 3,000 known nudibranch species. They live at a range of depths, but overall, they are most commonly found in warm, shallow seas, leading a benthic lifestyle. Some have found a home in brackish water, but overwhelmingly, they are marine animals.

FEEDING Nudis dine on a range of foodstuffs. A quick look at any ID book will show the standard phrase "feeds on sponges" for many species. Others have very particular feeding requirements, with some only eating other species of opisthobranchs. While sponges are a common foodstuff for nudibranchs (many will only eat specific sponges), there are many nudis that require specific hydrozoans, bryozoans, soft corals, or gorgonians.

As noted earlier, many nudis can allow nematocysts from their prey to pass through their bodies to become stored as defensive weapons. Some are also able to take toxins from their food and incorporate that into their flesh or mucus. These species

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Limacia clavigera has bright orange protrusions that warn of unpalatability.

This Chromodoris quadricolor is from the Red Sea. You can see it grazing on Negombata sp., a red sponge. You can also see the animal's newly laid egg mass as a spiral of jelly on the rock.

typically advertise their unpalatability with bright warning colors.

Some nudibranchs give away their food choice by their appearance, having evolved to look very much like the animal upon which they feed. Some species (Phyllodesmium crypticum and P. rudmani, for example) will consume Xenia spp. and look almost identical to the coral, which partly explains why I've never been able to get a photograph of one.

Given that they have very specific food choices, nudibranchs do not make good candidates for captivity. Few aquarists will have or will be willing to provide live and potentially toxic sponges, and

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Phyllidia varicosa

few captive reefs will be likely to host growths of bryozoans or hydrozoans. This presupposes that the aquarist or dealer is even able to identify the necessary prey animal in the first place. Beyond the Aiptasia-eating Berghia verrucicornis, all nudibranchs should be considered very difficult to keep and, in my book, should be left in the ocean.

My favorite nudibranch is commonly found in the cold waters of the North Sea. Janolus cristatus (Crystal Tips) eats bryozoans. This species is quite translucent and, when lit with a dive light, is very beautiful.

species, such as the Pyjama Slug, retain toxins gathered from their food in their flesh, others, such as Phyllidia varicosa, exude stored toxins into their mucus, thus deterring predators. As a side note, P. varicosa has been given the most unpleasant common name I've ever come across of Varicose Wart Slug. It perhaps is only beaten by its relative, the Pustulose Wart Slug, which lacks the yellow of its more attractive relative.

BOLD COLORS Bold coloration as a means of warning predators has evolved numerous times across the animal kingdom, and nudibranchs are masters at advertising their toxicity or unpalatability. While many

The colors of many nudibranchs are baffling to non-experts like me.

Some are so garish that they appear to be the product of an overly imaginative child with a large box of crayons and a somewhat exuberant hand.

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Spanish Dancer

One of the gaudiest and largest of all nudibranchs is Hexabranchus sanguinea, the blood-colored Spanish Dancer. This is a welldistributed species found across the tropics and one that every diver enjoys spotting. In fact, you can sometimes tell when your buddy has found one as the reflected glow of their dive light turns distinctly red. Of course, to a nocturnal animal that lives in a medium in which red light is rapidly absorbed, coloration like this is irrelevant. Without a diving light or camera flash, Spanish Dancers are very hard to see, and perhaps we should remember that the way we see nudibranchs is not always how they are seen by their predators or prey.

Spanish Dancers reach 12 inches in length and are often too big to properly photograph with a standard macro lens fitted to a camera, so I've taken to photographing their gills in the hope of catching a picture of Periclimenes imperator, a shrimp that this nudi often hosts. Sadly, no luck, yet.

The Spanish Dancer's name is derived from the animal's swimming style in which it undulates its body like a flamenco dancer's skirt.

Some divers will lift them from the rock or substrate to make them display this behavior, but this is not considered good practice and stresses the animal unduly.

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Janolus cristatus mating

Clearly, not all nudis are so brightly colored, but the ones that are certainly do take it to the next level.

REPRODUCTION Nudibranchs are simultaneous hermaphrodites, meaning they possess both male and female reproductive organs. During copulation, both animals use their penises to pass sperm packets.

Once mated, nudibranchs will lay egg masses (eggs encased in jelly), which may take the form of strings, sometimes wrapped around the animal's preferred food source. Other species create quite delicate, attractive looking spirals.

Newly hatched nudibranchs are planktonic and possess a rudimentary coiled shell that is shed early on in their development.

TO FINISH So why do I like 'em so much? It's still hard to say. Clearly, the diversity of form and color that nudis display has to be a factor.

Nudibranchs have adapted to exploit a huge range of habitats, and many sport highly specialized body plans perfectly suited to their needs: defensive, offensive, or simply camouflage. I guess it's a combination‌and the bunny ears of course!

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Image by author

KEITH MOYLE

PLANNING YOUR NEW MARINE AQUARIUM

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uring my 40 years in the hobby, I've witnessed numerous changes and developments. And although the science remains the same, it's now better understood. As a result of the advances in our hobby, there is now such a wide choice of tanks and equipment available that it could prove overwhelming for the aspiring marine aquarist. This article outlines some of the initial decision-making processes and reviews the key equipment decisions. Understanding your equipment options lays the groundwork for success with your new marine aquarium.

RESEARCH I cannot overstate the importance of research. The decision to establish a marine aquarium shouldn't be taken lightly. Providing the best possible conditions for your livestock, many of which may have been collected from the ocean, is paramount and requires a commitment both in time and money.

Only certain fish, known as reef-safe fish, can be kept with corals and invertebrates. As a result, your first decision will be to decide

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This Fluval EVO plug-and-play system is well equipped. It comes with a reef-capable LED light, powerful 3-stage filtration system, and circulation pump. | Image by Fluval

if you want to keep a fish-only aquarium or a mixed reef complete with corals and invertebrates. This decision will influence system design and the selection of equipment, such as lighting and wavemakers. The aquarium dimensions, water volume, and swimming space will also dictate the fish that can be kept. Consider the natural environment of the livestock, as this will give you an insight into the conditions you should try to replicate.

SYSTEM DESIGN AND BUILD While the initial outlay and running costs of larger aquariums are often higher than smaller systems, their increased water volume makes it easier to maintain stable conditions, resulting in a more forgiving system if you make a mistake. And while larger systems are beneficial, keep in mind that a fully stocked aquarium is extremely heavy, especially if made of glass rather than acrylic. Be sure your flooring can withstand the filled weight of the tank you choose.

Advances in filtration and other technologies mean lower water volumes aren't as problematic as they once were, so if space is limited, smaller aquariums are worth consideration. If you accept their limitations, they can be equally as impressive as larger reefs and provide a more affordable entry into the hobby.

Glass and acrylic tanks both have pros and cons. Acrylic is lighter, less brittle, and more easily drilled. Acrylic also scratches easily and can warp and discolor over time. For the greatest clarity, choose low-iron or Starphire glass tanks. Sumped systems, which include a second tank for filtration and equipment, are commonplace, providing greater flexibility and increased water volumes.

Some smaller systems have integral rear sumps concealed behind a plate, where equipment and filtration can be hidden, providing an option if you don't want, or can't accommodate, a traditional sump.

This Eshopps sump sits under the display, provides space for various equipment, and allows for greater water volume. | Image by Eshopps

Manufacturers make a wide range of aquariums, ranging from plug-and-play systems (including all equipment) to systems consisting of a tank, sump, and pipework, leaving hobbyists free to choose their own equipment. Alternatively, some specialized companies will design and manufacture custom systems to your specifications.

SUMP DESIGN Basically, a sump is a tank split into several compartments (usually three). Between each compartment is a series of baffle plates to force the water to flow through the sump in a particular path and maintain minimum water levels in certain chambers (notably for a heater and skimmer). Water flows from the overflow in the display tank down into the sump and passes through each compartment into the final chamber where it is pumped back up to the display.

It is important that the sump can hold all the water that will drain from the tank should the return pump fail or lose power during a power outage. The return pump's output rate should be matched to the overflow from the tank because if it's too strong, it could empty the sump too quickly, resulting in the pump running dry, potentially causing the pump to overheat and fail.

Conversely, an underrated pump will not keep up with the volume of water draining from the tank, possibly causing the sump to overflow. This could also mean inadequate turnover through the sump, which should be in the region of 4 to 10 times the total tank volume per hour.

The dimensions of individual sump compartments will dictate the size of equipment that can be fitted. Mechanical filtration (including filter socks and fleece rollers) will typically be placed in the first chamber. The second chamber will need to house a protein skimmer sized for your tank and bioload, and the final compartment will house the return pump. The last chamber is subject to water level fluctuations as a result of evaporation, so this is where a float switch or optical sensor for an auto top-off system (ATO) should be fitted.

It's advantageous to include another chamber that is isolated from the sump and used as a freshwater reservoir. This will allow you to top up water lost through evaporation.

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Artificial rock is free of pests, but you will need to add beneficial bacteria to your system to seed it. | Image by author

BIOLOGICAL FILTRATION Rock You can choose between artificial rock or live rock (taken from the ocean). Artificial rock is a very popular option, as it's environmentally friendly and free from troublesome hitchhikers. It is, however, devoid of essential bacteria and must be seeded with suitable bacteria from an established system or purchased from your local fish store.

In addition to biological filtration, rockwork offers a more natural environment, providing a refuge for fish and a structure for coral placement. Whichever rock you choose, if it's your only source of biological filtration, then you must have enough for large colonies

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Ceramic media can be used as a place for beneficial bacteria to colonize. | Image by author

of bacteria to maintain your aquarium's water quality. A general rule of thumb is to use at least 1 pound of rock per gallon of water volume, though this can vary depending on the rock's density, as porous rock is lighter.

Filter Media Ceramic media, available as spheres, blocks, or plates, has extremely high surface area for optimum bacterial colonization. This efficiency means relatively small volumes are required. While rock is still needed for decoration and fish well-being, using ceramic media as the primary filtration reduces the amount of rockwork required in the tank, providing more swimming space and displacing less water.

EQUIPMENT CONSIDERATION AND CHOICES Lighting Currently, the most popular method of lighting a marine aquarium is with LEDs. They are efficient, have a long lifespan, and can provide full-spectrum lighting, along with advanced control functions.

High-end units with extremely high output can be very expensive, so careful consideration of your requirements is essential. While fluorescent fixtures are less expensive, fluorescent tubes will require replacement every 9 to 12 months to maintain their output. This recurring cost should be factored in when weighing your options.

Hybrid lighting systems, which combine the benefits of both types of lighting and give a very even spread of light, are becoming increasingly popular.

If you plan to keep corals, you will need a light with a spectrum between 12,000 and 20,000 Kelvin. It must be powerful enough to light your entire aquarium without shadowing and be able to penetrate to the bottom of the tank. Two measures of light output are of interest to the hobbyist: photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) and photosynthetically usable radiation (PUR). Manufacturers quote lighting output in PAR units, a measurement of light power between 400 nm and 700 nm, where corals can photosynthesize.

However, PUR is perhaps most important, as it measures the usable radiation available to the zooxanthellae (photosynthetic algae) in the coral. It's not uncommon for modern reef lights to put out over 800 PAR at the water surface. As a general guide, light levels of 200 PAR on the sandbed are adequate for soft corals and LPS (large-polyp stony) corals. This is usually bright enough to keep SPS (small-polyp stony) corals at higher levels in the aquarium. Color spectrum, water clarity, and surface movement will all influence these recommendations. Many corals are resilient and will adapt to varying lighting conditions, provided changes are made gradually.

Lower-output units are more than adequate for fish-only systems, provided these are sufficiently bright for comfortable viewing.

The same also applies to aquaria housing only soft corals. Reefs containing hard corals will generally require higher light output, with LPS having medium demands, whereas SPS have much higher demands. In a mixed reef, you must cater to the corals with the highest lighting requirements, placing other corals at lower levels to avoid over-illumination.

LED lighting comes in various shapes, sizes, and degrees of controllability. | Images by AquaIllumination and ZooMed

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Most lighting fixtures can be suspended from the ceiling. Since they are heavy, you must use appropriate hanging hardware and a suitable mounting point. Alternatives such as brackets that attach onto the rear or span the length of the aquarium may be a better option, depending on your needs.

Protein Skimmers A protein skimmer, while not essential, will help remove organic waste from the aquarium before it is broken down. A skimmer is basically a reactor through which water, infused with tiny air bubbles, is cycled. As the bubbles rise in the reactor, they capture nutrients from the water, eventually bursting, releasing nutrient-laden skimmate into a collection cup for disposal.

It's important to ensure the skimmer is matched to your aquarium volume since skimmers are most efficient when operating constantly.

Using an overrated skimmer is counterproductive because an overrated skimmer will only produce skimmate intermittently. A protein skimmer needs a constant water level (based on the manufacturer's recommendations) for effective skimming.

Skimmers come in different shapes and sizes to accommodate different bioloads and sump sizes. | Images by Nyos & Reef Octopus

Wavemakers Good water movement is essential because it circulates water around the rockwork, brings food to sessile invertebrates and corals, and provides surface agitation and oxygenation, creating a more natural and healthier environment.

Water movement is created with wavemakers, controllable pumps capable of moving large volumes of water around the aquarium. Aim for EcoTech Marine's MP40 is a high-end propeller pump a flow rate of approximately 15 to 30 with full control. | Image by EcoTech Marine times per hour (based on the total tank volume) for fish, soft coral, and LPS coral systems. Increase this to a minimum of 50 times per hour for SPS corals. Multiple smaller pumps are often better than one larger pump. Multiple pumps, when carefully positioned, will create more natural, chaotic, and random flow patterns. Many different designs of wavemakers are available, including propeller and rotor designs with either internal or external motors.

Maxspect's Gyre pump offers a unique design that moves a lot of water for its size. | Image by Maxspect

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Heating and Cooling Unless you live in a tropical climate, you will need a suitably sized thermostatically controlled heater to keep the aquarium temperature around 77° F. Cooling during the summer months may be required, and either fans or aquarium chillers can be used to prevent overheating.

Refractometers Salinity is a measurement of total dissolved salts in seawater, and it should be kept stable between 32 and 35 ppt. Refractometers are used to measure salinity and are, if correctly calibrated, a reliable way to obtain accurate results. Electronic versions giving a digital readout are also available but more expensive.

Digital testing devices are often more accurate and easier to read. | Image by IceCap

Auto Top-Off Units An auto top-off (ATO) unit prevents swings in salinity caused by evaporation, automatically topping up your aquarium with reverse-osmosis (RO) water when the water level in the sump's return pump chamber has dropped. Using either a float switch or electronic sensor, an ATO will detect the drop in water level and run the RO reservoir pump until the correct water level is restored. RO water must be used to replace evaporated water since the salt in the aquarium doesn't evaporate.

Other Considerations

Auto top-off units automatically add water to the system as water evaporates, minimizing salinity fluctuations. | Image by Tunze

• Ensure the floor where the aquarium is to be located is level and able to support the system's weight.

• Provide an adequate number of GFCI-protected and accessible electrical outlets.

• Choose a stand that is strong enough to hold the aquarium and its contents.

• Avoid placing the aquarium where it will receive large amounts of sunlight.

• Decide if you will produce your own RO water and mix your own salt water and where they will be stored. If you plan on mixing your own salt water, you will need a container, mixing pump, and a heater.

• Figure out what test kits you will need based on the livestock you wish to keep. Marine aquariums require testing for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH, and a refractometer is needed to measure salinity. Reef aquariums also require calcium, phosphate, and magnesium test kits.

Time spent on planning and research is time well spent. Costly mistakes can be avoided by considering all aspects of aquarium design and installation before starting a build. If you ultimately want to keep SPS corals, then purchase suitable lighting at the outset, and run it at a lower level if its full intensity isn't needed until later. Buy the tank you ultimately want first; don't compromise on something that's not your long-term goal. Ensure you have a budget and stocking plan, and build your reef around it.

A marine aquarium makes a wonderful focal point in the home. A successful one needs careful planning and forethought. Consider it a journey—investing time in planning and research will make it all the more enjoyable.

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scrolling and plating SPS fragging guide

Image by JLus580

MICHAEL RICE

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Montipora capricornis is a great coral for beginners learning to frag.

below can also be used on many other forms of scrolling and plating corals, including some chalices and Turbinaria species.

To prepare for fragging these corals, I first fill two buckets with tank water. The first bucket is where I keep the mother colony between cuts. I add some Seachem Reef Dip to this bucket to sterilize the cuts that will be made on the coral.

As frags are cut off, I transfer each one into the second bucket of tank water, which has an amino acid solution (TLF AcroPower or Seachem Reef Plus) added to promote quick healing. I soak all the new frags in this amino acid bath for a minimum of 15 minutes.

I

n previous issues, I've shown you how to frag soft coral, LPS (large-polyp stony) coral, and branching SPS (small-polyp stony) coral. For this issue, we're going to dive into fragging the final major group of corals: scrolling and plating SPS corals. These corals grow in thin plates that really lend themselves to very easy fragging. This group's brittle growth makes for easy breaks or cuts, and their quick healing and rapid growth means they recover from fragging quickly. For these reasons, this is one of the best groups of corals to begin learning propagation with.

For this example, I'll be cutting up a large colony of scrolling Montipora capricornis. The thin and brittle Montipora structures are relatively quick growing for SPS. The most basic technique here is to simply break the brittle plates of Montipora with your hands. With these corals, deciding where to begin is very easy.

Many of the tools I use to frag scrolling and plating SPS can commonly be found around the home, including side cutters, a Dremel tool, or even just bare hands. If available to you, a wet bandsaw can also achieve great results. Remember that the techniques outlined Side cutters are a great choice for fragging plating SPS.

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Side cutters make quick and precise work of cutting monti frags.

A Dremel cut-off wheel makes precise fragging very easy.

A frag is cut cleanly off the mother colony with the Dremel.

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The Gryphon bandsaw is always a favorite fragging tool.

Cut in from the edge and work toward the center.

These corals grow in flat, plate-like formations, and it's easy to choose what size frags you would like and begin breaking pieces off in a grid pattern.

It is important to be very mindful of the pressure you apply to prevent damage to the delicate flesh living on the skeleton. Breaks don't always go as planned with scrolling Montipora, but don't worry. Even the smallest frags can easily heal and grow to be huge monti colonies.

With scrolling and plating SPS, side cutters or bone cutters really come into their own. If you're tired of me telling you to resist the urge to pinch or cut in these articles, now is your time to shine.

Montipora's thin, brittle skeleton is no match for the cutting power you can apply, allowing you to make exactly the cuts you want.

A Dremel tool may also be used to cut scrolling and plating SPS corals, but it's honestly overkill. It will easily make straight and precise cuts, but it's not much easier than the side cutters we Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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A freshly cut frag

talked about before. The best part of using a Dremel tool is its ability to flatten the bottoms of frags with a sanding drum. This creates a better gluing surface that is more likely to hold long term.

My favorite tool to use when fragging any type of coral is usually the Gryphon bandsaw. Plating and scrolling Montipora truly cut like butter, with razor-sharp lines exactly where you want them. But in my view, the bandsaw still doesn’t have a clear advantage over side cutters or even bare hands, given the ease with which these tools separate frags from the mother colony. Whatever tools you choose, don't forget to wear safety glasses.

A freshly cut frag

Since these SPS corals are flat, there's typically a top and a bottom to each frag, and not much interpretation is needed in how they should be mounted to frag plugs. That said, care should be taken when gluing any SPS corals to use as little glue as possible. This prevents glue from being squeezed and pushed onto areas where coral flesh is still alive. Remember that the way you mount the frags is the basis of how they are presented to potential new owners, and it's also very important in how they will grow out in the long term.

For scrolling and plating SPS coral, it's best to mount frags as flat to the plug as possible.

The list of tools and techniques that can be used to cut scrolling and plating SPS corals is truly endless. The most important things to remember when deciding how to frag them is that they are incredibly durable and will continue growing after being fragged, no matter what the frags end up looking like. There's certainly something to be said about the value that nice looking frags hold, but when you're just starting out, it's not worth worrying about. For now, just be creative, break some coral apart, and keep working toward your fragging goals.

R The bare back of a monti frag makes gluing a breeze!

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ANDREW OROZCO

My Colorful Lagoon I 've been in this hobby for over 7 years, but my obsession with corals goes as far back as I can remember. For the past 2 years, I've used social media such as YouTube and Instagram (@drewslagoon) to share my experiences, while at the same time learning every day about this amazing hobby that has turned into a lifestyle.

ABOUT THE LAGOON I bought this tank because I started to notice more and more people setting up new lagoon-style tanks without lids. There's something very appealing about this design, and the influx of new models to choose from had me wanting one. I decided to purchase an Innovative Marine Lagoon Fusion, the first generation of the series.

This lagoon is 2.5 years old as of January 2019.

rock, waited a month, and then glued the entire scape together with super glue gel (from the dollar store) mixed with some other reef glues.

TIPS AND FAILURES

Some failures I've had in this tank were caused by trying to achieve what some people call "perfect numbers." While trying to adjust two-part dosing, I found my tank was never stable and corals would rarely live, let alone grow. So I stopped fixating on small fluctuations, and once I did, I saw far better results. I am surprised how well my system does at low alkalinity and calcium levels. I only worry about high phosphates and really high nitrates (having some nitrates is important).

NANO-TANK TIP

AQUASCAPE The aquascape is mostly made up of small Tonga branch rock (approximately 80 percent), purchased at various local fish stores in California. Although this rock was initially shipped from Fiji as live Tongan rock, I couldn't chance any hitchhikers. I bleached the

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I try to stay away from too much filter floss/sock material. I don't have time to change these out very often, and when left too long, they trap detritus and become nitrate sinks. Instead, I use two small 4" strips of aquarium filter pad and place one on each side of my surface skimmers. You might be surprised that my rear

Space Invader Pectinia

compartments remain spotless even though I use minimal filter material. I replace these once a week or every 2 weeks at most. I perform 5-gallon water changes every 5 to 8 weeks. Sometimes, I do it less often if I'm feeling lazy.

SANDBED I do not clean my sandbed very often. I've found that it does a lot of harm to my tank's stability and my corals' health. I only clean the sand with a gravel cleaner once every 4 months. I use a handful of basic charcoal media in a filter bag in the first rear chamber, which I replace every month. With more water flow in the first chamber, less detritus gets trapped in the bag. I try to keep this tank simple to suit my lifestyle—ULM (ultra low maintenance) is key.

Lobophyllia sp.

Reactor: Innovative Marine biopellet (desktop size) Protein Skimmer: Innovative Marine DC Nuvo Surface Skimmer: (2) JBJ Chemical Filtration: Chemipure Elite Refugium: CustomCaddy with Chaetomorpha lit by an AquaIllumination Prime LED Heater: Jebao Live Rock: Tonga Branch Substrate: CaribSea Sugar-Sized Sand

REFUGIUM I am currently growing Caulerpa in the back chamber of the tank.

It honestly didn't help reduce nitrates as much as I had hoped. For hobbyists wondering if they should add a refugium to their system, I say do it if you are able to. It can only help. Mine doesn't make a big difference, but I believe it does help some with stability. Instead, consider adding an external refugium or algae reactor for more significant results.

Using multiple methods of nutrient export is important in keeping nutrient levels low. Skimmers, refugia, algae scrubbers, and biopellet/skimmer combos (in addition to water changes) are all good methods of nutrient export.

SYSTEM Display: Innovative Marine Fusion Lagoon (25 gallons) Dimensions: 24" × 20" × 12" Main Return Pump: Innovative Marine (211 gal/h) Water Movement: EcoTech Marine MP10wQD Doser: Jebao Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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King Midas, Eagle Eye, and Goblin's Fire zoanthids

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This Acropora started out as a single-tip frag the size of a grain of rice.

Sharknose Goby resting on his Trachyphyllia throne

LIGHTING - (2) AquaIllumination Hydra TwentySix HD - (2) AquaIllumination HMS hanger arms - AquaIllumination app lighting controller - 4:30 p.m. to 11:45 p.m. photoperiod with one hour ramp up and ramp down - AquaIllumination Hydra settings: - UV 75% - royal blue 85% - green 5% - cyan blue 85% - red 5% - whites 8% - violet 65% PARAMETERS Nitrate: 5 ppm Phosphate: 0.5 ppm Magnesium: 1210 ppm Calcium: 430 ppm

Alkalinity: 9.0 dKH Specific Gravity: 1.026 Temperature: 79° F

DOSING - B-ionic calcium/alkalinity buffer system - amino acids/vitamins by Aquavitro fuel - manually dose magnesium as needed since I go about 4 weeks between each 5-gallon water change Reef Hobbyist Magazine

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FISH FOOD

CORAL FOOD

- Cobalt Aquatics flakes - New Life Spectrum

- PolypLab Reef-Roids

- Blue Damselfish - (2) Sharknose Goby - Sixline Wrasse

STONY CORALS - Acropora spp.

- birdsnest corals - Caulastraea spp.

- flower pot coral - grafted Montipora capricornis - Jack-O'-Lantern Leptoseris - Meteor Shower Cyphastrea - and other unidentified corals

- Favia spp.

- Lobophyllia spp.

- Montipora capricornis - Montipora digitata - Mummy Eye Chalice - Stylophora spp.

- Trachyphyllia spp.

SOFT CORALS - Captain America Palythoa - Firework Clove Polyps - neon green toadstool leather

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- yellow/green Yuma - yellow-line clove polyps

INVERTS

FISH - Royal Gramma - Pacific Blue Tang - Ocellaris Clownfish

- various mushrooms - various zoanthids

- green star polyps - neon Kenya Tree - Palythoa spp.

- anemone crab - blue-legged hermits - Nassarius snails

- Red Fire Shrimp - red-legged hermits - turbo snails

FUTURE PLANS Most LPS (large-polyp stony) corals will be fragged and moved to my new Nuvo INT 75-gallon system, but I plan on keeping this tank a mixed reef. I do not plan on taking it down anytime soon. In fact, I want to run this tank until it literally falls apart.

BLUE TANG DISCLAIMER My Pacific Blue Tang has been in this nano for over 2 years. I've had a lot of experience with baby tangs, so if I could share some advice, it would be to NOT get a baby tang for your nano system unless you understand their behaviors and have a future plan for the fish.

For me, I committed to getting this tang a new home by the time it reached 2.5" in length. That being said, it's time for a new home, which happens to be this Nuvo INT 75-gallon build I'm working on!

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