Edible Madison 43 • Winter 2020

WI N TE R 2020

43

Celebrating the Abundance of Local Foods in Southern Wisconsin

a local feast • merry cocktails • beans • corn and more EDIBLEMADISON.COM III

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• FALL 2020

Join us for a special screening for our

community

Gather promotion?

Sunday, November 22, 2020 4 pm for screening details visit ediblemadison.com/gather

WINTER 2020 •

ISSUE 43

tradition, with a twist There are far better things ahead than any we leave behind.— C.S. Lewis

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NOTABLE EDIBLES

by Lauren Langtim

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RECIPE INDEX

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GIFTS OF THE SEASON

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18

21

25

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a sponsored feature

DIG IN Dry Corn

by Dani Lind

NOURISH The Humble Bean

by Laura Poe Mathes

DRINK LOCAL Merry and Bright, Shaken and Stirred

by Mariah Renz

COOK AT HOME The Local Holiday Table

by Lauren Rudersdorf

A SWEET SURPRISE

by Ellen Coatney

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FOODWAYS A Neighborly (and Adaptable) Cookie

by Monica O’Connell

37 40

Above: Leek Milk Bread Rolls Cover: Winter Kale Salad with Brussels Sprouts Photos by Tracy Harris

SUPPORTERS LAST BITE

by Shannon Berry

CONTRIBUTORS SHANNON BERRY Shannon Berry is the pastry chef at Pasture & Plenty. Prior to her current position, she was a cheesemonger at Fromagination for 4 years. She discovered her gastronomic passion as a young girl and has been working to develop skills in a variety of professional culinary environments for the past 14 years.

She aspires to bring people together through tasty, nourishing food and is grateful for any chance to experiment creatively.

ELLEN COATNEY Ellen Coatney is the owner of the plant-based ice cream company Fifth Scoop and a pastry chef at Frostwood Farms Kitchen in Middleton. Originally from Wheaton, Illinois, Ellen has lived in Wisconsin for almost 10 years and graduated from the Madison College Baking and Decorative Arts program.

When she is not churning ice cream or folding pastry, Ellen enjoys traveling, hiking, and watching terrible action movies.

She lives in Madison with her miniature pinscher mix, Maggie.

TRACY HARRIS Tracy is a graphic designer and photographer from Madison, Wisconsin. A polymath at heart, she dabbles in various arenas of makery including cooking and baking, sewing and knitting, painting and collage, and has a soft spot in her heart for film photography. When she’s not busy making things, she enjoys travel, good food and drinks, gardening, and live music.

JIM KLOUSIA Jim holds a degree in communication and journalism from the University of Wisconsin, Eau Claire. A Wisconsin native, he is a local adventurer who loves food, photos, and a good wheat beer. He is passionate about enjoying food with others and capturing life in Southern Wisconsin through photography.

DANI LIND Dani owns and operates Rooted Spoon Culinary, a farm-totable catering service and event space/bar in downtown Viroqua that focuses on locally sourced and seasonal menus and cocktails. When she’s not in the kitchen, she’s working up an appetite helping her husband with their grass-fed beef operation, gardening, or hiking/paddling/biking/skiing with her border collies.

MONICA O’CONNELL Monica is a scholar, writer, pastry chef, and owner of Curtis & Cake, a work space for exploring culture, community, and connection at the dessert table. She believes chocolate cake is an important part of a balanced diet and is currently working on a book-length project about sites of Black hospitality.

MARIAH RENZ Mariah Renz has been immersed in the Madison bar and restaurant community for over 14 years. As the co-founder of Spirited Women and Bar Manager at Mint Mark, she integrates her passion for community development with an appreciation for local ingredients to create unique food pairings and craft cocktails. Though her favorite thing is to welcome and care for customers in the restaurant, she has embraced the current challenges with takeout craft cocktail kits to complement Mint Mark’s locally inspired eats.

• WINTER 2020

MANAGING EDITOR Lauren Langtim PUBLISHERS Christy McKenzie Cricket Redman BUSINESS MANAGER Christy McKenzie CREATIVE DIRECTOR Cricket Redman COPY EDITOR Judith Woodburn CULINARY ADVISOR Christy McKenzie SOCIAL & DIGITAL PRODUCER Lauren Rudersdorf ADVERTISING, SPONSORSHIPS & EVENTS Dena Alspach 612-978-0084 dena@ediblemadison.com CONTACT US Edible Madison 4313 Somerset Lane Madison, WI 53711 hello@ediblemadison.com SUBSCRIPTIONS ediblemadison.com/subscribe hello@ediblemadison.com We want to hear your comments and ideas. To write to the editor, use the mailing address above or email hello@ediblemadison.com.

Edible Madison is published quarterly by Forager Publishing, LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission by the publisher. ©2020.

Subscription rate begins at $25 annually. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions.

If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you.

VISIT US ONLINE AT EDIBLE MADISON.COM

LAURA POE MATHES

Keep up with us between issues

on instagram @ediblemadison

on facebook /ediblemadison

Laura Poe Mathes is a registered dietician in private practice, focused on healing with real foods and herbs. She loves to spread knowledge and enthusiasm for great food, and teach traditional cooking and fermentation classes around the region. This causes her fridge to overflow with jars of pickled goodies. Originally from Missouri, Laura has been living in Viroqua, WI, for four years and now understands why cheese curds are a thing. She also loves to canoe, drink coffee and watch stand-up comedy.

LAUREN RUDERSDORF Lauren Rudersdorf owns and operates Raleigh’s Hillside Farm outside of Evansville, WI, with her husband Kyle. Together they manage ten acres for their growing CSA and hemp businesses.

When she’s not out in the fields, Lauren shares seasonal recipes on her blog, The Leek & The Carrot.

on twitter @EdibleMadison

Sign up for our monthly newsletter The Beet to get the latest news and offerings at Ediblemadison.com

EDIBLEMADISON.COM

Every Thanksgiving, my mom and aunt bake my grandma’s old bread recipe, a simple white pan loaf with a secret ingredient (I’ll give you a hint—that side of my family is Irish. That’s right—there’s an entire potato hiding in each loaf.) The aroma of this freshly baked bread announces that the season has started; a season that wraps us in tradition and the special flavors unique to certain gatherings, like my parents’ potato pancakes that they only make on Christmas morning, and Manhattans all around, all season long. It’s amazing how recipes take on a life of their own when they are intertwined with a certain occasion, and most importantly, certain people.

As we head into a winter unlike any other, we have been giving a lot of thought to holiday tradition. It brings up something different for each one of us. You may look forward to this time all year, or you may find the holidays challenging even when there’s not a global pandemic to contend with, or maybe you find yourself in the bittersweet in-between. In any case, nothing whips up the potent combination of nostalgia and food quite like the time from Thanksgiving to New Years.

This year, we want to find ways to carry on our traditions without clinging too tightly to what a “typical” holiday season looks like. The pandemic calls on us to get creative with traditions. It feels important to strike the right balance between the comfort of familiarity and the novelty of breaking out of the routine. So, we hope that in the following pages you’ll find the right mix of familiar winter flavors and unexpected twists to inspire your winter celebrations.

The digital stories planned for our monthly emails this winter also will focus on ways to make memories, gather safely and eat well. Friday night bonfires, anyone? Think pudgie pies, fancy popcorn and more. Go to ediblemadison.com/email-newsletter to sign up for our newsletter, The Beet. Everyone who signs up in November and December will be entered to win a gift basket filled with fireside cooking accessories, Edible Madison goods, and...tasty treats from local producers, of course.

Let’s dig in!

Lauren Langtim, Managing Editor P.S. We welcome your feedback and suggestions to help us stay relevant in an ever-changing landscape as we continue to evolve our content and offerings for Edible Madison.

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• WINTER 2020

EDIBLEMADISON.COM 5

N O TA B L E E D I B L E S

L AUREN L ANGTIM

Lark Market in Janesville The folks behind Lark, the farmto-table restaurant, have created Lark Market, a new shop and deli offering sandwiches from Lark restaurant, as well as wine, spirits, local cheese, baked goods, charcuterie and custom gift baskets.

The Pantry at Wildwood Cafe, Stoughton

Ahan: a Fantastic Addition to Madison’s East Side Successfully opening a restaurant in the middle of the pandemic is no easy feat, but that’s exactly what Jamie Hoang (formerly of Sujeo) and Chuckie Brown have managed to do. The Lao-Thai-inspired menu is ever-expanding and features a constant flow of inventive specials.

“We started making lists of all the regional products that we love that we couldn’t find in Janesville, like Potter’s Crackers, Quince & Apple, Gail Ambrosius, quality artisan cheese, and the funky liquors that make up so many of our favorite cocktails. It’s so great to work with all these small companies and help them reach a wider audience.”

-Joan Neeno, Owner of Lark

To order online for pickup, find them on Facebook (@ahanmadison608) and follow the ToastTab link in their bio.

TUES-SUN 11AM-9PM

Wine & Cheese Wednesdays: small group samplings and tastings, by reservation only.

Keni Rosales

See menu and list of provisions and order online at: larkjanesville.com TUES-FRI 11AM-6PM S AT 1 0 A M - 2 P M

Stephanie Baughn

Wildwood introduced a small store of provisions to grab with your morning coffee on the way to your daily adventure. Just what you need to pack a picnic for a winter hike, cross country or a snow shoe with friends. Order online for pick-up or drop in at wildwood-cafe.com

Dominic Panico

WED-SUN 8AM-NOON

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• WINTER 2020

Riemer Family Farm

ask for a photo?

.

Where to Find that Special Holiday Roast Straight from the Farm Keep your food miles low and score some extra flavorful, sustainably raised meat from a farmer near you! Go to ediblemadison.com for an expanded, up-to-the minute version of Notable Edibles!

S E V E N S E E D S FA R M - S P R I N G G R E E N Grass-fed beef, pastured pork and chicken.

Order online for pickup or delivery to Madison area: sevenseedsorganicfarm.com.

Visit the farm store on Saturdays from 11-3pm and Wednesdays from 3-6pm.

E N O S FA R M S - S P R I N G G R E E N Pastured pork. Order online for Spring Green pickup or delivery to Madison, Mineral Point and Dodgeville.

UNCONVENTIONAL ACRES - ARENA Grass-fed beef and pastured pork. Order online for delivery to Middleton and west Madison at unconventionalacres.com.

S U G A R R I V E R FA R M - B E L L E V I L L E Truly local turkey. Inquire at sugarriverfarm.com/contact.

R I E M E R FA M I LY FA R M - B R O D H E A D Grass-fed beef and lamb, heritage breed pork, and pastured poultry. Order online for delivery at riemerfamilyfarm.com.

Or Plant-Based Main Dishes: S Q U A S H I N G T O N FA R M - M O U N T H O R E B Dried pinto beans are one of their specialty crops.

Order online from squashingtonfarm.com V I T R U V I A N FA R M S - M C FA R L A N D Oyster, shiitake, chestnut mushrooms and more.

Order online for delivery to wider Madison area at vitruvianfarms.com

Give Back There’s never been a better time to volunteer your time or donate food or funds to your favorite charity. Here’s a list of places to consider:

U N I T E D WAY O F W I S C O N S I N A Dane County-specific searchable database of in-person and virtual volunteer opportunities plus donation wish lists from nonprofits. volunteeryourtime.org

S E C O N D H A RV E ST FO O D BA N K O F SOUTHERN WISCONSIN Support the 25th annual NBC15 Share Your Holidays campaign. Learn more at secondharvestmadison.org.

T H E R I V E R F O O D PA N T R Y Learn about The River’s COVID-19 Emergency Food Fund and get involved at riverfoodpantry.org

REAP FOOD GROUP Donate to support all of REAP’s great work to improve the local food system at reapfoodgroup.org.

GOODMAN COMMUNITY CENTER Get involved with the food pantry or the Holiday Gift Sponsorship Program for the families of the center’s youth programs.

Vitruvian Farms

goodmancenter.org

C O O K I T F O R WA R D Support the collaboration between local restaurants and local nonprofits to create an end-to-end distribution network to tackle food insecurity in Madison. cookitforwardmadison.org

EDIBLEMADISON.COM 7

ADD SOME

ALTITUDE. Elevate your next wine pairing with LE GRUYÈRE® AOP, made for over 900 years from the purest cow’s milk in the Swiss Alps. Gruyère AOP’s nutty complexity sings with Chardonnay, boosts a Beaujolais, and perfects a Pinot Noir. For more information and some great recipes and pairing ideas, visit us at gruyere.com.

Switzerland.

Naturally.

8 • WINTER 2020

Cheeses from Switzerland. www.cheesesfromswitzerland.com

WINTER 2020 RECIPE INDEX SAVORY Pan-fried Cornmeal-Crusted Fish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Cornmeal Pancakes. . . . . . . . . . 15 Slow Cooker Beans with Greens and Ham Hocks . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Roast Duck with Cranberry Orange Glaze. . . . . . 26 Leek Milk Bread Rolls . . . . . . . . 25 Roasted Butternut Squash with Maple Chipotle Butter. . . . . . . . 28 Winter Kale Salad with Roasted Brussels Sprouts & Cinnamon Citrus Vinaigrette . . . . . . . . . . . 29

SWEET Chocolate Cinnamon Cake with Spiced Orange Whipped Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Espresso Nut Shortbread with White Chocolate Ganache. . . . . 32 Butter Cookies — Sweet or Savory . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

BEVERAGES Star Appearant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Bitter Noel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

EDIBLEMADISON.COM 9

STRESS-FREE SHOPPING 24/7 fromagination. com

ER + C AL C I D V E O L S S A = LO O-GL FAR M -T O -TA B LE FO O D FAR M -T !

WINTER Y FOicRe shanties E REAnD f our WE’Rse o e o e rv y warm Re

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• WINTER 2020

brixcider.com 119 S 2nd St • Mt Horeb

Photos by Tracy Harris

twelve south carroll, on madison’s capital square

sponsored feature

GIFTS OF THE

Season

Beat shipping delays by buying early and buying local for your holiday

shopping. Edible Madison has curated a few gifts that will be treasured for their capacity to bring luxury to everyday routines: maple syrup to bless morning oats, exquisite jams for afternoon toast and tea, and artfully designed housewares to brighten the darkest of days. Watch for our digital giving guide dropping in late November for even more local gift ideas—follow us on instagram at @ediblemadison.

Giving of the Green Sasha Mazur of Green Life Trading Co. is ready to help you green your kitchen and home this holiday with her impeccably curated selection of housewares!

Living low waste looks different in every home and these favorites are as beautiful as they are functional. They’ll be sure to be the most-loved and used gifts of 2020.

Shop online: greenlifetradingco.com follow @greenlifetradingco Countertop Compost Bin $34.99 Food Huggers $12.99 Bowl Covers $14.99 - $19.99 ($57.99 / full set) Beeswax Wraps $18 UNpaper Towels wood stand + set of 24 $84.99 set of 6 $15.99 EDIBLEMADISON.COM 11

Staff Picks Will Make the Season Bright For You & Our Local Makers HANDMADE CRAFTS TO ENRICH EVERYDAY LIVING Craveworthy Pottery from Wilson Creek Pottery, Spring Green Hand-carved Utensils from Silva Spoon, Madison Fiber Craft Kits from Ewetopia, Viroqua Wisconsin Candle Company, Waunakee Hand-blown Glass from Studio Paran, Madison

GIFTS TO WARM THE BELLY & HEART Customized gift baskets from Lark Market, Janesville Gift boxes from Landmark Creamery, Paoli and Quince and Apple, Madison Care package of baked goods & great coffee from your favorite baker and coffee roaster Gift cards and provisions from your favorite restaurants!

A nice bottle of local spirits. Find yours at J. Henry & Sons (Dane), Driftless Glen Distillery (Baraboo), La Crosse Distilling Co. (La Crosse), Minhas Distillery (Monroe), State Line Distillery (Madison) or Yahara Bay Distillery (Madison)

GIFTS TO EXPERIENCE AND REMEMBER Socially Distanced Cheese Tasting Kits from Fromagination! Send to your friends and plan a Zoom party to taste together.

Virtual wine tasting class with Molly Moran at Table Wine or a Wine Club membership with Square Wine Co’s Andrea Hillsey.

A morning at Kosa Spa with a Moon Journal from the Good Day Shop followed by a walk through Olbrich Gardens.

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• WINTER 2020

Sweets for Your Sweet Bree and Eric of B&E’s Trees fell head over heels for a small corner of land in Southwest Wisconsin in 2011.

In partnership with Central Waters Brewing Company, they now age their delectable syrup in bourbon barrels.

The resulting organic maple syrup is rich, complex and incredibly delicious.

B&E invite you to join them to taste and share the adventure!

Shop online atbandestrees.com or find them at your favorite specialty retailer follow @bandestrees Flight of Fancy Gift Box of three 4.25 oz syrups for $34.95. Individual syrups are available from 1.7 oz to a gallon jug.

For the Flavor-Obsessed

Blue Violet Jams and Jellies in Sun Prairie gives classic fruits a hint of something surprising—think peak-season plums steeped with green cardamom or ripe pears infused with fresh rosemary. Spread on toast, scones or a special sandwich, complement your favorite cheese, or spoon on vanilla ice cream for a taste of summer any day of the year.

Jams include: Plum Cardamom, Spiced Holiday Cranberry, Pear Rosemary, Blueberry Violet, Concord Grape & Tarragon, Orange Earl Grey, and Apple Fennel.

Order via email at bluevioletjamsandjellies@ gmail.com or send a message via intagram or facebook @bluevioletjamsandjellies. Also available at Orange Tree Imports, Beans and Cream, Cassoulet or Guilty Cake.

Blue Violet Jams & Jellies in 4oz or 6oz jars $6 / $8

EDIBLEMADISON.COM 13

DIG IN

DRY CORN Upon moving to Wisconsin from Jalisco in western

beginning to fill the demand for organic corn that can

Mexico, Julian Zepeda asked his wife, Heidi Zepe-

be used as whole kernels by producers like the Zepedas,

da, who hails from Spring Green, “With fields upon

or stone-milled into cornmeal for food co-ops, restau-

fields of beautiful corn in Wisconsin, why is no one

rants, and home cooks.

making fresh corn tortillas?” Cooks like me who’d been searching for locally-produced tortillas for years were probably wondering the same thing. Fortunately for us, the Zepedas set out to solve that problem. Their new tortilleria in the former Lonesome Stone Milling building in Lone Rock, WI, uses the ancient Aztec technique of nixtamalization to make traditional Mexican fresh corn tortillas from local non-GMO and organic corn.

Unlike their industrialized relatives, foods made from whole grain organic corn can be quite good for you, with lots of fiber, minerals, and B vitamins. Dry corn has been a staple food of native North, Central, and South Americans for thousands of years and can be used to make all sorts of delicious foods, including popcorn. It can be milled and sifted into various levels of coarseness for flour, starch, cornmeal, grits, or polenta. Or, through an ancient technique first developed by the Az-

The Zepedas have had a host of obstacles to overcome.

tecs and Mayans, it can be nixtamalized to improve the

The vast majority of the corn fields Julian was talking

corn’s nutrition and digestibility. Early peoples used a

about aren’t filled with corn humans can actually eat,

hot alkaline solution made from wood ash to soften the

but instead genetically modified and chemical laden

dried corn kernels and dissolve their hulls. Today food

corn that’s destined for animal feed, industrial com-

processors employ the same process using calcium hy-

ponents, refined food products like high fructose corn

droxide derived from slaked limestone (also known as

syrup and corn oil, or ethanol fuel production. For-

cal or pickling lime). Nixtamalized corn can be eaten

tunately, local growers like Meadowlark Organics

whole as hominy or ground into masa dough for things

of Ridgeway, WI (profiled in our Fall 2020 issue) are

like the Zepeda’s tortillas.

Where to get fresh local tortillas:

Nothing beats the taste of made-from-scratch corn tortillas. Fortunately for us, fresh, local tortillas are having a moment. Taco lovers, rejoice!

TORTILLERI A ZEPEDA I N SP RI N G G REEN :

See a full list of where to buy at tortilleriazepeda.com

TORTILLAS LO S AN GE L ES I N M A D I SO N :

Contact 608-345-3089 tortillaslosangeles@gmail.com

BA ND IT TACO S I N MAD I SO N :

Order fresh tortillas (and much more) for pickup or delivery at bandit-tacos.com.

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Locally-sourced white, yellow, and blue corn tortillas

photo by Sunny Frantz

DAN I L I N D

Cornmeal-Crusted Fish serves 4 prep time: 10 min cook time: 15 min INGREDIENTS

Cornmeal Pancakes serves 3 prep time: 10 min cook time: 10 min INGREDIENTS

1½ lb mild, flaky fish filets, such as walleye, trout, whitefish, farm-raised catfish, or cod

1 cup stone-ground whole grain cornmeal (like Meadowlark Organics’)

1 cup stone-ground cornmeal, medium grind

¼ cup white whole wheat flour, all-purpose flour, or all-purpose gluten-free flour mix

¾ tsp sea salt

½ tsp baking soda

½ tsp each thyme, paprika, and black pepper

½ tsp baking powder

½ cup mayonnaise

2 eggs

Safflower or vegetable oil for pan frying

1 cup buttermilk

DIRECTIONS

1.

Combine cornmeal, salt, thyme, and spices together in a pie plate or baking dish.

2 . Pat fish filets dry with a paper towel and spread a thin coating of mayonnaise all over each.

3.

Heat about ¼ inch of oil in a cast-iron pan over medium heat.

4 . Carefully dredge each mayo-covered filet in the cornmeal mixture, tap off excess, and slide into the hot oil, leaving room to flip them. After a minute or two, when golden and starting to brown, flip the fish to fry the other side for another couple minutes.

5 . Remove to a paper towel-lined plate, and serve immediately with homemade tartar sauce and lemon wedges.

½ tsp sea salt

2 Tbsp sunflower oil or melted butter Oil or bacon grease for cooking DIRECTIONS

1.

Whisk together cornmeal, flour, baking soda, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl. In another bowl, whisk eggs, buttermilk and oil or melted butter. Add wet mix to dry mix, then whisk together until just smooth

2 . Heat a large skillet or electric griddle with a bit of oil or bacon grease over medium heat. Pour about ¼ cup of batter per pancake and cook about 1½ minutes per side, until golden. Repeat with additional oil/grease and remaining batter. Serve immediately with butter and pure maple syrup.

photos by Jim Klousia

EDIBLEMADISON.COM 15

A Glossary of Dry Corn D E N T C O R N —aka field corn— is used primarily as livestock feed, but also for processed foods. Most varieties grown in the Midwest are hybrid or genetically modified varieties of yellow varieties, but there are also many open-pollinated and hybrid varieties of white dent corn with a soft starch that’s excellent for grits and tortillas.

F L I N T C O R N —aka gem or Indian corn—has many colored varieties and, because it contains a very hard starch that retains its texture in cooking, is great for coarse cornmeal or polenta. Popcorn is a type of flint corn.

P O L E N TA is coarse stoneground yellow flint corn. It’s used to make a porridge that can be eaten loose and creamy or set into cakes to be grilled or pan-fried.

C O R N M E A L is dried corn ground between steel rollers, a process in which some or most of the germ and fiber are removed, making the cornmeal shelf stable but less nutritious than stoneground cornmeal.

M A S A is dough made from corn that has been nixtamalized. Masa can be used to make tortillas, tamales, sopes, and other similar foods. Masa harina is a dried flour made from masa dough.

STONE-GROUND CORNM E A L is whole dry corn that has been ground between two grinding stones. A simple, very old process that retains much of the grain’s healthy fiber and germ, stone grinding results in a product that is more perishable than standard cornmeal. Stone-ground corn should be stored in the fridge or freezer.

S W E E T C O R N is the only type of corn not suitable for drying as a grain. However, some sweet corn genetics can be bred into varieties of dry corn to increase their sweetness (Meadowlark Organics’ signature open-pollinated 1 yellow flint corn that they’ve been growing for many years has some sweet corn genetics).

G R I T S area coarsely ground white dent corn used to make a porridge very popular in the American South. When you see it labeled as hominy grits, it means that it’s been nixtamalized like masa harina to remove the hull and make it more digestible.

C O R N S TA R C H —aka corn

flour—a refined product made from the ground endosperm of the corn kernel, is primarily used as a thickener.

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Providing a clean, safe environment for your grocery shopping.

Hours before 10am are reserved for those

who are seniors or immunocompromised.

See our current store hours and coronavirus precautions at www.willystreet.coop/coronavirus.

Check out any of our three locations.

E v ery on e W e l c o m e ! www . w il ly st r e e t . c o o p

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EDIBLEMADISON.COM 17

the humble bean T

NOURISH

L AU R A P O E M AT H E S

his is an ode to the bean. While they may

be unassuming, beans are actually little nuggets

fiber sources of carbohydrates, which gives

of nutrition that are eaten all around the world,

them a lower glycemic index and help with

showing up in just about every cuisine imagin-

blood sugar control. For those like myself, who

able. Dried beans last indefinitely if stored in a

eat meat, and vegetarians alike, beans are also a

cool, dry place like the cupboard, where they

plant source of protein. Beans also provide mul-

will be ready to use anytime, such as when going

tiple B vitamins and several minerals, including

to the store in bad weather is out of the question.

many that act as antioxidants.

You can stock up on a variety of beans, buying in

I recommend using dried beans, rather than pre-

bulk to keep in your larder all winter long. Beans

cooked and canned, whenever possible. Dried

are also an affordable way to “stretch” a meal,

beans are cheaper and have a longer shelf-life.

adding nutrition and bulk for very little cost,

However, I do like to keep a few cans of cooked

which is beneficial for the body and budget, and

beans on hand for a quick weeknight meal, just in

would likely make your grandmothers proud. I

case life doesn’t go according to plan.

even consider beans a comfort food in a way, as

Cooking with dried beans does require think-

they are soft and starchy, while a bit toothsome,

ing ahead—at least a day or two, if you pre-soak

and are often found in soups and stews that pro-

them. There are two camps in the bean soaking

vide warmth in the cooler months. Finally, beans

debate, but I am firmly on the “do soak” side.

are increasingly becoming part of the foodshed

Pre-soaking beans speeds up the cooking time,

here in Southwest Wisconsin, with organic, of-

and offers nutritional benefits. Just like grains,

ten heirloom, varieties on offer from local farm-

nuts and seeds, beans are more digestible if

ers such as those at Meadowlark Organics. For

soaked prior to cooking. Beans contain carbo-

all these reasons, I think of beans as a per-

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inflammation. Beans are among the highest-

hydrates that can be difficult to digest, which

fect winter food—especially for this odd and

can lead to some less-than-desirable symptoms

unfamiliar winter.

(heck, they even made a song about it!), but

When I use the word “bean,” I am referring to the

soaking pre-digests these starches to reduce

whole family of legumes that include beans, len-

hose unwanted side effects. Soaking before

tils and peas, all of which are nutritional super-

cooking also decreases the content of phytates,

stars. Beans are probably best known for being

oxalates, and lectins—anti-nutrient factors

high in fiber. The main type of fiber that beans

found in the seeds of plants, including beans.

contain is soluble fiber, which acts as a prebi-

Removing these compounds helps make the

otic to feed the beneficial bacteria in the gut to

many minerals in beans more available to the

promote a healthy microbiome. A robust and di-

body. To me, the extra step of soaking is well

verse population of gut microbes has been linked

worth a little bit of time and effort for the nutri-

to improved digestion, immune health and

tional payoff.

• WINTER 2020

Once your beans have soaked for 1-2 days, they are ready to strain and cook. The cooking can take up to a few hours,so put on a pot of beans while you watch a movie if you need to pass the time. For hands-off cooking, use a slow-cooker, or opt for a pressure cooker (such as the InstaPot) if you are in a time crunch. To avoid underdone or tough beans, be sure to cook beans without acidic ingredients (such as vinegar or tomato).

Once cooked, beans can be added to just about anything under the sun. I like to make an extra-big batch of beans to use in a variety of meals throughout the week. For warm and comforting meals, throw them into soups, stews, curries or chili. Simmer them in bone broth with a handful of fresh herbs for an easy side dish or combine with whatever meat, veggies, and grains you like to create a onepot meal. This is a perfect medium for using up leftover bits of fridge goodies, reducing food waste in your kitchen. Or use chilled beans as the base for a salad, puree them to make a dip (homemade hummus, anyone?),

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— Abe W., Member-Owner Madison, WI

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get to where you want to be.

or refry to accompany tacos and fill pupusas. I even like beans for breakfast, combined them with eggs and avocado on a weekend breakfast burrito bar, or English-style with baked beans on toast. Many cultures even ferment beans, adding a probiotic boost and further improving their digestibility.

I even know some recipes that use beans in desserts such as brownies. Is there anything beans can’t do?

Want to dig in deeper?

Visit ediblemadison.com for Laura’s fully annotated text and source list.

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Slow Cooker Beans with Greens and Ham Hocks prep time: 20 minutes + 1-2 days for soaking cook time: about 12 hours serves 6-8

This dish featuring many Wisconsin ingredients is inspired by my Missouri roots, using one of my favorite kitchen gadgets: the slow cooker. Cooking your food low and slow helps to preserve more nutrients, maintain moisture and enhance flavor—all while you are doing other things. Cooking the beans with ham hocks creates a smoky, salty broth and a comforting dish that will stick to your ribs this winter.

INGREDIENTS 1 lb dried pinto beans (or use the dried bean of your choice) ½ tsp sea salt for soaking + ¼ tsp sea salt for cooking 1 large onion, diced 3-4 cloves garlic, minced 2 smoked pork hocks, about 2 lbs (or substitute bone-in ham or pork soup bones instead) 4 cups water 4 cups bone broth—can be beef, chicken, or pork—or sub 4 more cups water 8 cups chopped collard greens or kale (about 1 large bunch) ½ tsp paprika ¼ tsp black pepper 2 bay leaves 1 Tbsp brown sugar or maple syrup 1½ tsp apple cider vinegar

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• WINTER 2020

DIRECTIONS 1.

Rinse the dried beans and check for any rocks or shriveled beans to discard.

Place the rinsed beans in a large bowl. Cover the beans with water and add the 1/2 tsp salt, using about twice the volume of water than beans to cover, as they will expand significantly during soaking. If beans emerge from the water during soaking, simply add more water and continue soaking. Let soak for 1-2 days at room temperature.

2 . Drain and rinse the soaked beans, then place in a slow cooker. Add the onion, smoked hocks, broth, water, greens, garlic, paprika, 1/4 tsp salt, black pepper, bay leaves and brown sugar. Cover and turn heat to high.

3.

Let simmer for about 12 hours, or up to 24 hours, cooking until the beans are extremely tender. If the liquid reduces too much during cooking, add more water or broth to keep plenty of liquid in the pot.

4.

Once the beans are tender, add the apple cider vinegar and stir to incorporate. Taste for seasoning, adding salt and pepper as desired before serving.

SUGGESTIONS I only add a bit of salt at the beginning, as smoked ham hocks are quite salty, and the beans will absorb lots of the salty broth during cooking. Be sure to season to taste at the end.

If you want to make this on the stovetop instead of the slow cooker, reduce cooking time to 2-3 hours, or until the beans are tender. Serve with your favorite hot sauce and warm, buttered cornbread for the ultimate down-home, cold-weather meal.

photo by Jim Klousia • pottery from Morgan Cherven

DRINK LOCAL MARIAH RENZ

These festive cocktail recipes come to us from Mariah Renz of Mint Mark on Madison’s east side. You can find all the ingredients at the Cork ‘n Bottle Liquor Store in Madison. Or keep an eye out for these cocktails on Mint Mark’s to-go cocktail kit menu this season.

red

The Bitter Noel

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and

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dB n a y r r i r

EDIBLEMADISON.COM 21

e M e

t gh t gh

t gh

t gh

and Br and B i y r r dB i n a r y ri r r

red

t gh a k Sh ht k

red M e

The Star Appearant

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d n a Br Br ry i i r INGREDIENTS

red ir red

A warm hug in a glass with a kiss of sunshine and the perfect balance of sweetness and spice to buffer coldest darkest days.

DIRECTIONS

Spiced Pear Syrup

t t t e S ae n d n a ntd S n a S nd

ir

1 oz Spiced Pear Syrup

.75 oz fresh squeezed lemon juice 5 oz hot water

1.

Prepare the Spiced Pear Syrup according to the recipe that follows.

ir

1.5 oz Laird’s Apple Brandy

2 . Stir ingredients together and garnish with orange swath, star anise and cinnamon stick.

SUGGESTIONS

Orange swath

Make an alcohol-free cocktail by omitting the brandy and using 1.5 oz spiced pear syrup and 1 oz lemon juice.

1 star anise

1 cinnamon stick

22

• WINTER 2020

ir

FOR GARNISH

To make the orange swath, simply use a veggie peeler to peel a large, wide piece of skin off the surface of an orange.

INGREDIENTS ½ cup honey ½ cup sugar

1 ¼ cup water

1 cinnamon stick 4 star anise

Zest from one orange 1 sliced pear ¼ tsp salt

S

Bitter Noel

This cocktail is a combo of a Lion’s Tale and a Trinidad Sour.

It’s rich and bitter, with fresh citrus and tropical notes.

Cheers!

INGREDIENTS 1 oz New Richmond Rye Whisky

REAL FOOD. REAL LOCAL .

.75 oz Giffard Orgeat .25 oz St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram .5 oz Angostura bitters .75 oz fresh-squeezed lime juice DIRECTIONS Combine ingredients with a scoop of ice in a cocktail tin. Shake

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vigorously then strain into a fancy stemmed glass.

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Br i

DIRECTIONS

1.

t gh

Add all ingredients to a heavybottomed saucepan and bring to a gentle simmer for 10 minutes.

2 . Remove from heat and let cool for half an hour.

3.

Strain and keep refrigerated. It will keep in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.

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• FALL 2020

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EDIBLEMADISON.COM 25

Roast Duck with Cranberry Orange Sauce

Recipe by Ryan Wagner of Driftless Provisions

Driftless Provisions is a small company in Viroqua, WI, that specializes in handcrafted salami. Co-founder Ryan Wagner highlights his passion for wild game in this classic holiday recipe. He adds cranberries to bring a refreshing tartness and pay homage to the Wisconsin winter fruit. You can adjust the level of tartness by adding more or less cranberries to the sauce. serves: 4 prep time: 25 min active / 12 hrs inactive cook time: 2 hrs INGREDIENTS

1 quart orange juice ½ cup honey 5-6 pound duck, giblets and excess fat removed Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 large onion, thinly sliced 2 Tbsp all-purpose flour ½ cup cranberries 1 orange, washed and thinly sliced ½ cup triple sec DIRECTIONS

1.

Combine orange juice and honey in a large bowl. Add duck; cover and refrigerate overnight. Turn duck once or twice if not fully covered by marinade.

2 . Preheat oven to 375°F. 3.

Remove duck from marinade, reserving the liquid. Thinly score the duck skin with a sharp knife, taking care not to slice the flesh. Remove wing tips and season the bird well with salt and pepper. Place breast side up on a roasting pan rack. Roast for 10 minutes. Turn heat down to 350°F and roast for an additional 90 minutes.

4 . About 30 minutes into the roasting process, remove 2 tablespoons of rendered fat from the roasting pan and place in a large saucepan. Add onions and sauté until golden brown, about 10 minutes.

5 . Sprinkle flour over onions and stir well. Cook until flour is very lightly browned, another 1-2 minutes. Add in reserved marinade along with the cranberries and bring mixture to a boil. Continue cooking over medium heat until marinade thickens, 20-25 minutes.

6.

Pour liquid into a food processor and blend until smooth. Strain any remaining solids from sauce and set sauce aside.

7.

Remove cooked duck from the oven and discard all but a thin layer of rendered fat from pan. Reduce oven temperature to 325°F. Lay orange slices on the bottom of pan and return to oven. Cook for 10 minutes or until orange slices begin to brown. Remove duck and orange slices from pan and let rest while finishing the sauce.

8 . Place roasting pan on stove top over medium heat.

Add triple sec and carefully ignite. When flames extinguish, pour in reserved sauce and stir well, taking care to loosen any brown bits from bottom of roasting pan.

9 . Carve or cut duck into halves or quarters with sharp scissors. Plate with orange slices around the edges.

Ladle sauce over the top.

Notes: We tried the recipe with a whole, roasted farm-raised duck and also with a wild Mississippi River wood duck, harvested by Chef Kyle Julius. We seared the wild duck breasts quickly in a pan with a generous amount of duck fat or butter, 2 to 3 minutes per side and used the remaining duck for stock.

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• WINTER 2020

Leek Milk Bread Rolls Sarah Woolworth had a knack for flavors well before she began her role in product development for local artisan jam company Quince & Apple. Formerly, she was the voice behind the popular Madison cooking blog, Wisconsin From Scratch. This recipe was originally developed for her blog and has been adjusted here to include leeks. serves: 16-32 prep time: 30 min active / 2 hrs inactive bake time: 35 min INGREDIENTS

⅓ cup butter, melted

Recipe by Sarah Woolworth of Quince & Apple

DIRECTIONS

1.

Combine cooled butter, milk and 1 beaten egg in a small bowl. Stir in yeast and let rest until yeast begins to bubble, about 5-10 minutes.

2 . In a large bowl, mix together flour, sugar and salt. Add the milk mixture and stir until liquid is fully incorporated into the dough. Using your hands or a dough hook, knead dough until soft and springy, about 8 minutes.

If dough is too wet to knead, add more flour in small increments until it’s workable.

3.

1 ⅓ cup milk 1 egg, beaten + 1 more for egg wash 1 Tbsp active dry yeast

Knead in the leeks until they are well combined with the dough. Coat a large bowl with oil, then place dough in the bowl, cover with plastic wrap or a cloth, and let sit in a warm place until approximately doubled in size, about 1 hour.

4 cups flour

4 . Grease two 9” round cake pans or one 9x13” baking pan.

¼ cup sugar

5 . Turn dough out onto a well-floured surface and divide in half. Divide each half into 16 equal pieces. Shape each piece of dough into a round ball, pinching any edges to seal. Arrange shaped dough into greased pan(s).

1 ½ tsp salt 1 large leek, cleaned and finely chopped (about 2 cups) 1 Tbsp sesame seeds

6 . Cover the rolls with plastic wrap or a cloth, and let sit in a warm place to rise for another hour.

7.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Brush the tops of the risen rolls evenly with beaten egg, and sprinkle with sesame seeds.

Photos by Tracy Harris

8 . Bake rolls until golden brown on top, about 25-35 minutes. Turn out of pans onto a wire cooling rack to cool, then serve.

EDIBLEMADISON.COM 27

Roasted Butternut Squash With Maple Chipotle Butter Sujhey Beisser is the chef behind Five Senses Palate, a Madison food blog that celebrates both the seasonal flavors of the Midwest and Sujheys’ Venezuelan roots. In this recipe, she enhances the natural sweetness of roasted butternut squash with a sweet and spicy compound butter. The butter is made with chipotles in adobo sauce, a staple in her pantry.

INGREDIENTS

DIRECTIONS:

1.

Preheat the oven to 400°F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

2 . Peel the butternut squash and cut in half lengthwise. Use a spoon to remove the seeds. Place the squash cut side up on the prepared baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil and season with ¼ teaspoon salt.

Turn the squash over and bake cut side down for 25 minutes. Turn the squash over and finish baking cut side up until fork-tender, about 10 minutes longer.

3 . While the squash roasts, prepare your butter. Make sure all the ingredients are at room temperature. Place the butter in a small bowl and stir with a spoon or rubber spatula until smooth. Add remaining ingredients along with remaining ½ teaspoon salt. Stir to combine.

4 . Cut each half of the butternut squash lengthwise through the middle so you end up with four quarters.

5 . To serve, place quarters cutside up on a serving platter. Spread a quarter of the maple chipotle butter on each quarter. Serve hot.

Photos by Tracy Harris

1 medium butternut squash 2 Tbsp olive oil ¾ tsp salt, divided 4 Tbsp unsalted butter, at room temperature 2 chipotles in adobo sauce, seeded and finely chopped 2 tsp adobo sauce, from the can 2 tsp maple syrup 1 tsp white wine vinegar 1 Tbsp fresh parsley, minced

Recipe by Sujhey Beisser of Five Senses Palate

28

• WINTER 2020

Winter Kale Salad With Roasted Brussels Sprouts & Cinnamon Citrus Vinaigrette Recipe by Lauren Rudersdorf of Raleigh’s Hillside Farm and The Leek & The Carrot

It may just be because I’m a CSA vegetable farmer, but kale always tops my list of favorite salad greens.

It can stand up to dense, hearty ingredients (like apples and roasted Brussels sprouts) in a way lettuce and baby greens just never can. Dress it at the beginning of preparing this recipe to be pleasantly surprised by the tenderness of this often misunderstood green.

INGREDIENTS For Salad:

1 pound Brussels sprouts, halved 1 Tbsp olive oil ½ tsp Kosher salt 2 bunches lacinato kale, stems removed and very thinly sliced 1-2 apples (preferably something sweet and crisp like a Honeycrisp), cored and thinly sliced 1 cup toasted mixed nuts (I used a mixture of pecans, pepitas and pistachios) For Cinnamon Citrus Vinaigrette:

¼ cup olive oil 2 Tbsp red wine vinegar 2 Tbsp freshly squeezed orange juice 1 Tbsp maple syrup 1 tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp kosher salt ¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper

DIRECTIONS

1.

Preheat oven to 400°F. Toss Brussels sprouts with olive oil and salt on a large baking sheet. Roast until crisp and lightly browned, about 10-15 minutes.

2 . While the Brussels sprouts roast, whisk together all your vinaigrette ingredients together until smooth.

3.

In a large bowl, toss kale with dressing and let sit for at least 10 minutes.

4 . Add roasted Brussels sprouts, apple and nuts just before serving.

EDIBLEMADISON.COM 29

What new food traditions are you cooking up this holiday season?

Maybe it’s a new recipe for the holiday spread, a bonfire gift exchange, or doorstep cookie drop.

#EMcookingduringcovid

Whatever you’re up to, please share with us!

30

…and tag us to win on instagram @ediblemadison.

Each Thursday through New Years Day, we’ll feature a photo of the week and award a gift package from local purveyors.

• WINTER 2020

a sweet surprise

Photos by Tracy Harris

Since everything looks a little different this year, why not mix it up with your holiday baking, too? Read on for a couple of classic recipes with funky twists.

Ellen Coatney

EDIBLEMADISON.COM 31

Chocolate Cinnamon Cake with Spiced Orange Whipped Cream

3 . Cream together the butter and sugar until fluffy.

4 . Add the egg yolks one at a time to the butter mixture, followed by the vanilla extract.

This cake showcases an underrated 5 . In a separate bowl, whisk together the dry ingredients. holiday flavor trifecta—chocolate, orange, and cinnamon. These flavors work well together because they have 6 . Add about half of the dry ingredients to the mixing bowl, mix different strengths. Chocolate is foununtil just combined, and then add dational; it carries the cake with fudgy half of the heavy cream. Repeat confidence. Orange is light and cituntil all of the ingredients are just rusy, which gives the whipped cream incorporated. an ethereal quality that softens the density of the cake. Cinnamon is the 7. Scoop out about a quarter of the ribbon of spice on your tongue, tying egg whites and mix into the batter every crumb of cake to its fluffy cream to lighten the texture. Then, gencounterpart. Equal parts warm and tly fold the remaining egg whites fruity, this cake works just as well for into the batter. your grand finale holiday dinner dessert as it does for a decadent afternoon 8 . Pour the batter into your prepared pan and bake for about 45 mintreat with a cup of coffee the next day. utes, or until the cake is set and a tester comes out clean. prep time: 25 minutes bake time: 45 minutes serves: 8 INGREDIENTS For cake:

3 eggs, separated 6 oz unsalted butter, at room temperature 1 ½ cup sugar ½ tsp vanilla extract 1 cup all-purpose flour ⅔ cup Dutch-processed cocoa 1 Tbsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp salt 1 tsp baking powder ¾ cup heavy cream For whipped cream:

1 cup heavy cream ¼ cup powdered sugar 2 Tbsp Grand Marnier ½ tsp ground cinnamon ½ medium orange, finely zested DIRECTIONS

1.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease an 8-inch round cake pan and line the bottom with parchment.

2 . Whip the egg whites to a medium peak. Set aside.

32

• WINTER 2020

9 . Once the cake has cooled, combine the ingredients for the whipped cream and whip to a medium peak. Spread generously over the top of the cake and serve immediately.

SUGGESTIONS

To prepare in advance, bake the cake, wrap well, and freeze for up to 3 months. To serve, thaw the cake overnight in the refrigerator and top with the whipped cream.

Espresso Nut Shortbread with White Chocolate Ganache In my family, sugar cookies are king during the holiday season. Or should I say queen—my grandmother’s pale cookies, just barely browned on the bottom and topped with flawless royal icing, were staples in our house. I’m all for tradition, but my culinary experience has taught me that a little experimentation never hurts. So this year, I’ll be making room on my table for these espresso nut shortbreads, too. They’re the perfect balance of nutty and sweet, rustic and luxurious. The toasted hazelnuts and bitter espresso will hit your taste buds first, closely followed by a rich wave of white chocolate. You might even find they’re the ideal complement to a classic sugar cookie. prep time: 20 min + 30 min of rest time bake time: 20 min yield: about 24 cookies INGREDIENTS

1 ½ Tbsp instant espresso powder 8 oz unsalted butter, at room temperature ⅔ cup sugar ½ cup almond flour ½ cup local hazelnuts, toasted and finely ground 1 ¾ cup all-purpose flour 8 oz white chocolate, chopped ¼ cup heavy cream

DIRECTIONS 1.

Dissolve the espresso powder in 1 teaspoon of hot water.

Everyone is welcome to shop!

2 . Cream the butter and sugar together until fluffy.

3 . Add the espresso mixture and combine.

4.

Mix in the almond flour and ground hazelnuts.

5 . Add the flour and stir until the dough just comes together. Finish kneading in any unincorporated crumbs by hand.

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6 . Chill for 30 minutes.

7.

Roll the dough out to about ¼-inch thickness on a lightly floured surface, and use a cookie cutter to cut out shapes. Bake on a lined baking sheet at 325°F for 20 minutes, or until the cookies are set and just barely browned along the edges.

8 . Meanwhile, to prepare the ganache, combine the cream and chocolate in a microwave-safe bowl. Microwave for 30 seconds.

Gently stir the mixture until the texture is smooth and shiny. Let cool at room temperature until the ganache is the stiffness of peanut butter.

9 . Once cookies have fully cooled, scoop the ganache into a piping bag with a small star tip and decorate.

EDIBLEMADISON.COM 33

A NEIGHBORLY (AND ADAPTABLE) COOKIE F O O D W AY S M O N I C A 0 ’ C O N N E L L

T

here aren’t many things that get higher “quality of life”

that present well and have broad appeal. Sometimes

marks than being in a fully realized and reciprocal rela-

I will gift what I call “flavor bombs”—items that recip-

tionship with your neighbors. Sure, we’ve all received a

ients can reach for when they are cooking themselves.

package or two on their behalf, watered plants, or cat- or

Rosemary, chili, vanilla-scented sugar or kosher salt,

dog-sat. But those neighborly relations in which you are

or logs of compound butter wrapped in wax paper and

able to exchange more than pleasantries and willingly

kitchen twine. Or what about pretty little jars of light-

extend more than common courtesy seem to be becom-

ly pickled root veggies or quick heirloom apple or

ing more and more rare. Maybe the attention economy is

pear butter? The inherently improvisational nature of

taking up all of our bandwidth. Maybe the twin cults of in-

these kinds of items pairs well with Wisconsin’s year-

dividualism and privatization have wormed their way too

end produce.

far into our psyches. Whatever the cause, we are often so

Cookies, of course, are a great gift food. Every sane per-

busy minding our own business and keeping up our own appearances that we forget our neighbors need keeping, too. This past spring, we saw people responding to the pandemic with concerted acts of connection and mutual aid. This first Winter of Covid, as we all retreat behind the double doors of hibernation and social distancing, I, for one, want to be among those who take the opportunity to shore up intention around checking in on each other and extending that kind of care. Building community can begin with being a good neighbor.

son loves them, they transport from stoop to stoop well, and they are a great way to highlight local Wisconsin ingredients. They don’t have to be fancy either. I have had a simple butter cookie—made with that yummy Organic Valley cultured butter—on my pop-up menu from the beginning and it’s always been one of my most popular items. I was thinking about that cookie the other day: It’s got a nice tender crumble and a rich buttery flavor that would work well with many ingredient combinations.

I wondered: Could you adapt the recipe so that it could

My timing ever-stellar, I will be air-hugging my current

serve as a base for sweet or savory applications (kind of

neighbors and moving across many states during not only

like how I treat my compound butters)? Intrigued by the

a global pandemic and the most important election of our

idea, and by the thought of having buttery cheddar bis-

lifetime, but also, hey, the start of the holidays. By the

cuits at hand to nibble on, I decided to give it a shot.

time this goes to print I’ll be tucked into a new time zone

Using what I already had, which luckily included a

and surrounded by good neighbors yet unknown. I intend to break in my new kitchen whipping up ways to initiate relationships of co-keeping with these folks. Food, after all, is my love language.

pound of Organic Valley cultured butter, I made a half batch each of the plain butter cookie, another sweet take with dried cherries and cardamom, and two savory versions: one with cream cheese and fresh herbs, and one

My dear Wisconsin neighbor and I exchanged food gifts

with cheddar. Surprisingly, I liked them all (although I

frequently and with cherished informality. Sometimes

would have added more salt and a turn or two of fresh

it was dinner—the whole pot or just a foil-covered plate.

black pepper to the herbed cream cheese biscuit). I en-

But we also swapped jam, takeout containers refilled with

courage experimentation and substitution. Get creative

chicken stock or soup, garden overflow, and whatev-

with the cheese. I used an extra-sharp cheddar and dry

er baking experiment we had going that weekend. Pret-

mustard but next time I might try Landmark Creamery

ty much anything was fair game, and more than a few

Anabasque and a healthy pinch of nutmeg. Sub cranber-

times one of us would show up unannounced on the oth-

ries for cherries or toasted hazelnuts for the almonds or

er’s stoop insisting they try something right this minute.

walnuts I used. And if you find a combo you really love,

These exchanges aside, I usually like to choose food gifts

be a good neighbor and share it with me!

34

• WINTER 2020

Butter Cookies– Sweet or Savory prep time: 20 min plus time to chill bake time: 14 min serves: 4-6

INGREDIENTS

1 cup flour ½ tsp salt 1/3 cup sugar ¼ tsp baking powder 1 stick butter 1 egg yolk turbinado sugar for coating + see recipe variations for additional ingredient suggestions

3 1

DIRECTIONS 1.

Whisk flour, powder, and salt together in a medium bowl.

2 . Beat butter and a scant ⅓ cup (65 g) sugar in bowl of mixer with paddle attachment until light and fluffy.

Add yolk to combine. Add dry ingredients and mix on medium low until just combined.

3.

Using plastic wrap, shape into a log then roll in turbinado sugar to coat. Rewrap, then chill or freeze until ready to use.

4 . Preheat oven to 350°. Take the dough out and leave it on counter until you can slice it cleanly.

5.

Evenly place ¼ - ½ -inch thick slices of dough on a parchment-covered sheet pan and bake for 12-14 minutes or until lightly browned.

“ Building community can begin with being a

good neighbor.

2

VA R I AT I O N S 1. Cherries and Cardamom Add 2 teaspoons cardamom to dry ingredients and ¼ cup chopped dried cherries to mixed dough.

2. Zesty Cheddar Biscuits Add ¼ teaspoon cayenne, ¼ teaspoon sharp paprika, and ½ teaspoon dry mustard (such as Coleman’s) to dry ingredients. Replace sugar with 4 oz finely shredded sharp cheddar. Roll dough log in walnuts, pecans, or hickory nuts.

3. Herbed Cream Cheese Biscuits Replace sugar with 4 oz cream cheese. Add 3 teaspoons of finely chopped fresh herbs (I used thyme and rosemary) to dough and combine. Roll in remaining herbs and sliced almonds or chopped hazelnuts.

Maybe sprinkle sliced dough with sea salt before baking.

EDIBLEMADISON.COM 35

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• WINTER 2020

THANK YOU TO OUR ADVERTISER S! Please support the following businesses to experience the best local, seasonal, and sustainable products and services in the region.

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WONDERSTATE COFFEE 1201 North Main St., Viroqua 608-637-2022 wonderstatecoffee.com

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RECIPES FOR

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80+ RECIPES

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• WINTER 2020

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For the love of cheese I remember the first time I met cheese...and I mean good, artisan cheese. It was love at first bite and I’ve been completely smitten ever since! Cheese is a true feast for the

This Cheese-Lover’s Winter Picks

THE BLUE JAY a crumbly aged blue

Deer Creek, Sheboygan, WI

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senses. The variety of scents, textures, colors, and flavors

ripe pears

is astounding; sweet cream, mushroom, roasted brassica,

Sauternes

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fresh grass, toasted hazelnut...the list is infinite and the point is that I’m in love.

So how do you know what to eat with which cheese when

BANDAGED CHEDDAR

the options are limitless? Well, think of cheese pairing

a cave-aged Cheddar

like a great partnership—you want to complement one

Bleu Mont Dairy, Blue Mounds, WI

another, even bring out the best in each other. So, when pairing cheeses—ask what you like about a cheese, and find something that enhances that particular element.

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salted almond dark chocolate

+ Cabernet

For example, if you like the tart sweetness of a cheddar, eat it with dried cherries to enhance that flavor, only elevated and a touch more complex.

THE CROWN JEWEL

an Appenzeller-esque cheese Roelli Cheese Haus, Shullsburg, WI

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spicy toasted pumpkin seeds and prosciutto

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Stateline Distillery Barrel-Aged Gin

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• WINTER 2020

LAST BITE SHANNON BERRY

GRANQUESO

an aged Spanish-style cheese Roth Cheese, Monroe, WI

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quince paste

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photo by Sunny Frantz

Wisconsin Amber Ale

See more pairing ideas and a listing of fine cheese shops in our region at ediblemadison.com.

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