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Paddle Pushers Vermont Canoe & Kayak dips into the Lamoille River

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Remote R&R A Green Mountain getaway to Highland Lodge

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Hit the Road Sightseeing in Barre, Shelburne and Hubbardton

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Home, Sweet Home COURTESY OF VERMONT CANOE & KAYAK

Vermont is known around the world as a playground for hardy tourists. Nearly 13 million out-of-staters visit these Green Mountains in a typical year, seeking out the natural attractions, full-service resorts, charming inns, craft breweries, farm-to-table restaurants, and indie retailers peddling Vermont-branded souvenirs. In an average year, these travelers pour almost $2.8 billion into our state’s economy. This year, of course, is different. A required quarantine period of up to 14 days is limiting travel into Vermont during the COVID-19 pandemic. And Vermonters who might usually vacation elsewhere are subject to similar restrictions in other states. For myriad reasons, it makes sense to stay put this summer. Fortunately, Vermont is a great place to explore, and Seven Days created Staytripper to guide you. Looking to paddle lazily down a river, cuddle an alpaca or catch some R&R in a private cabin? How about an outdoor sculpture stroll or sipping wine by the vine? Read on for our road map to socially distanced adventures across the state. And remember, spending your money at local establishments really matters — this year, especially. So, vacation within driving distance, support the Vermont economy and enjoy tourist-free access to places you’ve always wanted to go. There have never been so many good reasons to hit the local road.

BY KEN PICARD

ENJOY YOUR STAY .................... 8 Greensboro’s historic Highland Lodge is an enduring Vermont destination BY KRISTEN RAVIN

COURTESY OF TATE JOHNSON

BLADE RUNNERS ....................... 6 Vermont Canoe & Kayak invites locals to paddle the Lamoille River

J U LY 2020

— CARO LY N FOX , E DITOR

VERMONTING ............................ 12 Three close-to-home travel itineraries BY CAROLYN FOX & PAMELA POLSTON

THE SCENIC ROUTE .................. 14

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Quirky roadside attractions to seek out

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BY CAROLYN FOX

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South Hero

DRIVING DESTINATIONS

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VT African American Heritage Trail ..... 17

Jeffersonville

Kingdom Trails ................................. 21 Shelburne

Greensboro

Westford

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Montpelier

Local snacks to pack for the drive BY CAROLYN FOX

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Barre

East Shoreham

Middlebury

A MOVEABLE FEAST .................. 18

East Burke

St. Johnsbury

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PHOTO BY NATHANAEL ASARO

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Burlington

Lemon Fair Sculpture Park................. 19

ON THE COVER: Kayaking on the Waterbury Reservoir

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12

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Leicester

Hubbardton

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Blade Runners Vermont Canoe & Kayak invites locals to paddle the Lamoille River BY KEN PICARD

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SEVEN DAYS STAYTRIPPER JULY 2020


P

addling a river is a great metaphor for life. Some days the ride is lazy and tranquil, others wet and wild. But even when you don’t know what’s coming around the next bend, it’s always about the journey, not the destination. For more than a decade, Vermont Canoe & Kayak in Jeffersonville has served mostly tourists who come to dip their paddles into the nearby Lamoille River. But with the pandemic, and the resulting decline in out-of-state tourism, the new business owners are looking to Vermonters to spend time this summer enjoying all that the Lamoille River and its environs have to offer. That includes the nearby distillery, winery, retail stores and scenic bike trail. Vermont native Bronwyn Decker and her husband, Dean, bought the business in 2019 from a friend who was retiring. Based in Jeffersonville along Route 15 behind the Family Table restaurant and Cupboard Delicatessen & Bakery, VCK rents canoes, single and tandem kayaks, and

making them ideal for novice and experienced cyclists alike. VCK’s Wheels, Water & Wine tour ($100 per person) is a five-hour, three-in-one excursion featuring the bike and paddle tour, then adding in a downriver stop at Boyden Valley Winery & Spirits in Cambridge. And after an hour of nibbling Vermont cheddar and sipping local vino, travelers will appreciate the assistance of an e-pedal back to Johnson. Other VCK river tours include stops at the Vermont Maple Outlet and the award-winning Smugglers’ Notch Distillery. There’s also the Ice Cream Float tour ($100 per canoe), a family-friendly river run that features beachside Ben & Jerry’s and other frozen treats. As Decker pointed out, this stretch of the Lamoille River is rated as Class I, meaning that it’s wide and easy to paddle, with gentle curves, few obstacles and no whitewater. To address this year’s concerns about COVID-19, Decker noted that VCK has adopted a system for disinfecting paddles, boats and life jackets between uses. Visitors are encouraged to wear masks in the tour company’s office, where only one group is allowed at a time and all transactions are done without physical contact. VCK’s shuttles carry single groups only. On the river, social distancing is a breeze, Decker added. Boaters can give each other a wide berth; indeed, every paddler is six feet away from their own canoe partner. As she put it, “We’ve got a pretty safe gig going on.” And a scenic one. On the Lamoille, it’s easy to get away from it all, as paddlers can spot deer, geese, eagles, muskrat and beavers. Last year, one paddler even saw a black bear along the river. In 2020, VCK is offering a 10 percent discount to Vermonters with valid IDs. “This year will be totally different for us, which is why we’re trying to reach out to locals,” Decker explained. “We have a beautiful state, and this is the year to take advantage of it.” m

Outings on the Lamoille River with Vermont Canoe & Kayak

Be prepared to swim, hang out on the beaches, relax and paddle at your own pace. standup paddleboards for self-guided trips and tours. And with four shuttles running to three put-in spots upriver, Decker said, the company allows paddlers to spend as little as 90 minutes on the water, or as much as an entire day. “One thing we encourage is to pack a picnic,” she added. “Be prepared to swim, hang out on the beaches, relax and paddle at your own pace.” VCK has partnered with Jim and Yva Rose, owners of Lamoille Valley Bike Tours in Johnson, for an E-Bikes & Boats tour ($80 per person). The four-hour excursion starts on the Lamoille Valley Rail Trail, where travelers hop on electric-powerassisted bicycles, or e-bikes, and pedal the historic railroad corridor for a 30- to 45-minute scenic ride to Jeffersonville. There, travelers grab their canoes or kayaks for a 90-minute paddle downriver, then get shuttled back to their e-bikes for the return trip to Johnson. E-bikes can be ridden either like conventional bicycles or using motors that reach speeds of 20 miles per hour,

PHOTOS COURTESY OF VERMONT CANOE & KAYAK

BRONWYN DECKER

INFO VERMONT CANOE & KAYAK 4805 Route 15, Jeffersonville, 644-8336, vtcanoeandkayak.com. SEVEN DAYS STAYTRIPPER JULY 2020

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Enjoy Your Stay Greensboro’s historic Highland Lodge is an enduring Vermont destination BY KRI STEN RAVI N

COURTESY OF TATE JOHNSON

T

his summer, ever-changing circumstances surrounding the coronavirus have made a Green Mountain getaway more feasible — and perhaps far more appealing — for Vermonters than exploring crowded city streets or sharing a buffet aboard a cruise ship. And in Greensboro, the remote Highland Lodge is prepared to provide just such a vacation. It’s an unpretentious destination for those seeking to enjoy the state’s natural wonders and craft food and drink — or simply some socially distanced solitude. The more than 150-year-old lodge has withstood significant historical events and today is pivoting to ride out a pandemic.

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Near the shore of Caspian Lake in Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom, the Highland Lodge originated as a family farmhouse in the 1860s. Developers, planning to build more than 70 cabins on the grounds, bought the abode in 1926. After a short time and a little progress, the stock market crashed and construction came to a halt. Yet the Highland Lodge showed itself to be the little inn that could, persevering as a boarding house through the Great Depression and World War II. A turning point came in 1954, when the Smith family purchased the place after vacationing there. ENJOY YOUR STAY » P.10

INFO HIGHLAND LODGE 1608 Craftsbury Rd. Greensboro 322-4456 highlandlodge.com


Summer in Vermont is short and oh so sweet. So come take advantage of a Vermont Staycation in beautiful downtown Burlington at the Courtyard Burlington Harbor Hotel! Conveniently located on the shores of Lake Champlain in downtown Burlington, the hotel inspires you to explore the magic of the Queen City. Take an excursion on Lake Champlain or a walking Beer Tour by day followed by an evening of fine dining and shopping on the Church Street Marketplace. The Vermont Staycation Package includes lake view room and food credit to either Bleu Northeast Seafood or BRICK Wood Fire Grill & Kitchen. Call the hotel at 802.864.4700 and reference the Vermonter Rate.

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Enjoy Your Stay « P.8

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People are realizing that we have all these cabins here and that you’re in a prime location for social distancing. ELSA SCHULTZ

PHOTOS COURTESY OF TATE JOHNSON

The lodge stayed in the family for more than 60 years. Generations added rooms and cabins, a kid-friendly game room, a dining room, and ski trails connecting to the Craftsbury Outdoor Center, making it an all-seasons attraction. After the Smiths put the lodge on the market in 2015, six community members joined forces with Brooklyn-based entrepreneur Heidi Lauren Duke to invest in the property. She managed dayto-day operations until her departure on May 31 of this year. Stepping into her place are new general managers and partners Elsa Schultz and Chad Sims, who began training in March — “just in time for the pandemic to really unleash on the world,” Schultz said by phone. The circumstances at the time of their arrival were no doubt challenging. In April, personal finance website WalletHub ranked Vermont No. 4 on its list of states where COVID-19 had the biggest impact on the tourism industry. Still, Schultz and Sims are enthusiastic about taking the lodge into the future while staying connected to its past. “It’s been our priority to continue to highlight the magic that has been Highland Lodge historically,” Schultz said. If the number of repeat guests is any indicator, that magic is real. “A significant amount of these people are folks who have been coming here for 20, 30, 40, 50 years, even,” said Schultz, “and they’ve been bringing their kids and their grandkids.” What keeps visitors returning year after year? It could be the 136 picturesque acres, the hiking trails, the private beach, the Nordic skiing trails, or the midcentury-style rooms and private, dog-friendly cabins. For foodies and beer hounds, it could also be the lodge’s proximity to award-winning producers including Hill Farmstead Brewery and cheesemaker Jasper Hill Farm. One guest from Massachusetts noted in a 2019 TripAdvisor review that she had stayed at the lodge five times in the previous two summers. “The Highland Lodge offers a trip back in time with most of the amenities of the present,” she wrote. Another reviewer praised the “cozy” atmosphere and absence of televisions.

The House Bar & Kitchen at Highland Lodge typically offers dinner and drinks several nights a week for guests and nonguests alike. For now, all menu items are packaged to go. This doesn’t mean folks can’t enjoy a special dining experience, though. “We’ve actually spent a lot of time sprucing up our back garden picnic area behind the bar, which is all open-air,” Schultz explained. The general managers are working to create an all-encompassing experience for guests, so that vacationers never have to leave lodge grounds during their stay. To that end, they’ve added lunch service and expanded the to-go canned beer selection; they’re also scheduling food trucks for nights when the kitchen is closed. Additionally, a Whetstone Wellness instructor leads socially distanced yoga on the lawn for

After temporarily suspending lodging and food service, the business began booking five-night-minimum stays on May 7. With new policies in place, doors reopened on June 15.

Schultz and Sims are blocking off a full day in between reservations to allow for thorough cleaning between guests. Booking in the main house is limited to 25 percent capacity.

guests and community members every Saturday. (Attendance is capped at 25 people, so folks should preregister.) Potential visitors are encouraged to touch base with the Highland Lodge for the most up-to-date information, as policies are subject to change according to Gov. Phil Scott’s orders. Schultz said that many of the lodge’s repeat guests were out-of-staters who might not cross state lines this summer. That opens up the market to more Vermonters, she noted. “At first, [reservations were] very slow,” Schultz observed. “People were very cautious, but I think people are realizing that we have all these cabins here and that you’re in a prime location for social distancing. You can check into your cabin and not see a single person for a week if you don’t want to.” And past guests who do return this summer can count on a little familiarity in a quickly changing world — namely, said Schultz, “the warm nature of our staff, and coming here and letting us take care of you.”


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Vermonting Three close-to-home travel itineraries BY C A ROLY N F OX & PA ME L A P OLSTON

E

very week through midOctober, Seven Days presents “Vermonting,” a new column of curated excursions in all corners of our great (but not so large) state. Indeed, Vermont’s diminutive size makes a multitude of short trips accessible, whether for a few hours, an overnight or a longer getaway. Find three sample itineraries below, and read more detailed travelogues at sevendaysvt.com. Before you hit the road for any of these destinations, read up on their current COVID-19 policies. And visit SEVENDAYSVT.COM/ VERMONTING-MAPS to download a map of these locations straight to your mobile device!

Discover th

e Grandeur

of Granite in From the dow Barre ntown Art Stro ll to the famou trip to Barre is s Hope Cemet rife with gran ery, this ite sculptures. its heyday, the That’s no coin Granite City w ci dence; in as considered world. The 19 the granite ca th- and early 20 pi ta l of the th -century indu of immigrant stry attracted stone carvers, th pr ousands im Greece, Leban arily from Ital on, Canada an y but also from d elsewhere. T Scotland, Vermont’s mos hat influx mad t diverse city, e Barre injected its po a community litics with colo uniquely devo r and created ted to visual ar ts. FIND YOUR BE AR

INGS DOWN This streetscap TOWN ON TH E ART STROLL e sculpture wal . k highlights B and celebrates arre’s granite the talents of hi story it s pa st and present st Download a m one carvers. ap at studiopl acearts.com/a rt-stroll.

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PAMELA POLSTO

SHOP FOR AN TIQ

UES AT GRAKL 18 years. The in ES, which ha s been in busine ventory, mainl ss for y from 60 cons of old things: to ig nors, in ols, books, jew elry, oddities an cludes all kinds d objets d’art. PICK UP LUN CHTI

ME PROVISI ONS at RICK a South Barre IE’S INDIAN takeout spot th RESTAURAN at occupies th T, convenience st e back of a Shel ore. Ask for th l gas-station e m an go chicken to go, for dessert (cho then stop colate!) at DEL ICATE DECAD ENCE.

HIT THE MIL LSTO

NE TRAILS. T his network of encompasses recreational tr 1,500 acres of scenic terrain. ails among historic Walk or mount quarries, keep ai n bike ing physical di stancing in min d.

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FILE: JAME

PICNIC AT H OPE

METERY, a ve ritable outdoo 65 acres and ho r museum cove lding more than ring pale gray of gr 10 ,000 gravestone anite in comm s. They have th on, but their st stolid rectangl e yles vary dram es with elegan atically, from tly chiseled na mes to a minia ture race car.

REST YOUR HEAD

AT THE REYN This inn has a OLDS HOUSE . Staying over long history da night? ting back to 18 guest rooms m 92. Its carefully erge Victorian restored -era décor wit h modern-day comforts.

FILE: JEB WALLACE-BRODEUR

Above: “Culmination” sculpture by Sean Williams Right: The Miranda room at the Reynolds House

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Above: Shelburne Farms; Iapetus wines at Shelburne Vineyard; a meal at Peg & Ter’s


FILE: BREN T HARREW YN

CAROLYN FOX

Be Charmed by the Farm in Shelburne Those who live in urban Chittenden County don’t have to travel far to find grassy expanses — and cows! Just seven miles south of Burlington, Shelburne offers a refreshing taste of small-town life within Vermont’s most populous region. Plan your day around a visit to Shelburne Farms. The 1,400-acre working farm, forest and National Historic Landmark has kept its walking trails available to the public, its website states, “as a place to seek solace, comfort, and connection to the natural world.” GET OUT TO PASTURE AT SHELBURNE FARMS.

Place an order in advance at the Welcome Center for curbside pickup of a few key picnic items: the farm’s own cheddars and a rustic loaf from on-site O Bread bakery. Then take your ploughman’s lunch out into the field. Ten miles of trails afford views of farm animals and the lake.

VIEW GARDEN-INSPIRED ART AT FURCHGOTT SOURDIFFE GALLERY.

Kate Longmaid’s “Return to the Garden” exhibition, on view through July 10, features gouache garden paintings and floral still lifes. The gallery is open to one party at a time.

STOCK UP ON READING MATERIAL AT THE FLYING PIG BOOKSTORE.

Order some fresh titles in advance, then collect your pages through the indie bookshop’s cute pickup window.

SIP WINE IN THE SUNSHINE AT SHELBURNE VINEYARD.

Make reservations for a patio or lawn seating, then kick back and taste winemaker Ethan Joseph’s award-winning ferments, offered by the glass or bottle.

Connect With H istory and Natur

e in Hubbardto This journey wind n s toward the Taconi c Mountains Rambl state park in Hubba e, a newish rdton that’s just a ho p from the oldish H Battlefield. The Ra ubbardton mble became a sta te park in 2016, a gif estate of landowner t from the s Carson “Kit” David son and his wife, M The New York City ickie. couple ultimately pu rchased more than and devotedly tend 400 acres ed the property for 46 years, blazing tra preserving meadows ils and at the foot of Mount Zion. STOP FOR SAND WICHES AT

PRATT’S STORE in Bridport (if trave from the north). Th ling ere are more than a dozen specialty sa here, each named ndwiches for past or current employees. Try the turkey, bacon, avoc Betty’s Bomb: ado, Swiss and pesto on white bread. PICNIC AT HUBB ARDTON

BATTLEFIELD ST The monument re ATE HISTORIC SIT E. presents one of the first efforts in the co establish and preser untry to ve a Revolutionary War site as a historic The June 7, 1777, ba artifact. ttle is considered “o ne of the most succ rear-guard actions essful in American history ,” according to a we bsite for state historic sit es. WANDER THE TR AILS AT

TACONIC MOUN TAINS RAMBLE. The place feels both Zen-like and agresta l. Explore the hills ponds and Japanese , -inspired garden, an d soak up the sun while sitting in an Adirondack chair. SNUGGLE A CUTE CAMELID

AT WRIGHT CHOI CE ALPACAS in Ca The business motto stleton. here: “Happiness is a cute alpaca.” And Mingling with thes it’s true. e long-necked crea tures can make you for a moment, the forget, troubles of our hum an herd. COOL OFF WITH ICE CR

EAM FROM LU•L U IN VERGENNE The artisan ice crea S. m shop makes flav ors ranging from gr to salted caramel to ee n tea curried peanut butte r. SPEND THE NIGH

T AT THE STRONG Built in 1834, the Ve HOUSE INN. rgennes inn is liste d on the National Re of Historic Places, gister noted for its classic and well-preserved New England arch itecture.

SHARE, GRAZE, DEVOUR AND INDULGE AT PEG & TER’S.

PAMEL IA

The casual restaurant (which divides its menu according to the aforementioned verbs) is open for limited indoor and outdoor seating, as well as takeout. Try a summery watermelon salad and the crispy chicken sammie.

POLST ON

EXTEND YOUR VISIT AT THE HEART OF THE VILLAGE INN.

The top-rated B&B is located in a stately Queen Anne Victorian built in 1886, conveniently located along Route 7.

Find more information on Vermont day trips and adventures from the Vermont Department of Tourism and Marketing at vermontvacation.com/staytripper.

Above: lu•lu ice cream Right: Wright Choice Alpacas farm; Taconic Mountains Ramble vista

SEVEN DAYS STAYTRIPPER JULY 2020

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The Route

1

SASHA GOLDSTEIN

MATTHEW THORSEN

Scenic

Quirky roadside attractions to seek out BY CAROLYN F OX

Whale Tails

Birdhouse Forest

FIND THEM: On Interstate 89

FIND IT: Along West Shore Road in South Hero

Vermont may be New England’s only landlocked state, but highway motorists can still go whale watching. “Reverence,” a pair of near-life-size granite whale tails, was created in 1989 by Vermont artist Jim Sardonis. Initially sited in Randolph, the tails found their eventual home as the centerpiece of South Burlington’s Technology Park walking trail. (If you’re driving by Exit 4, look for Sardonis’ newer sculpture, the bronze “Whale Dance.”) The presence of these marine mammals isn’t really so outlandish: Beluga whale fossils have been found all around Lake Champlain, evidence that the Champlain Valley was once an inlet to the sea.

Driving toward White’s Beach in South Hero, it’s hard to imagine that any vista could compete with the sparkling blue expanse of Lake Champlain. But just across the road, hundreds of brightly hued birdhouses hang in the trees, demanding attention and explanation. So here’s the latter: The nearby homeowners started building birdhouses in 1996, hoping to attract tree swallows to feast on the fierce mosquito population. They dubbed the houses “Jelly Bean Suites” due to their candy colors. Never has pest management looked so sweet.

between exits 12 and 13

4

FILE: MOLLY ZAPP

The World’s Tallest File Cabinet FIND IT: Along Flynn Avenue in Burlington

Painted Silos MATTHEW THORSEN

2

3 MATTHEW THORSEN

Towering more than 40 feet over an unassuming patch of weeds, this obscure obelisk is not an Office Spacestyle prank or the handiwork of a disgruntled Staples employee. Rather, it’s a satirical sculpture by Burlington architect Bren Alvarez that comments on the bureaucracy of urban planning. Called “File Under So. Co., Waiting for...,” it’s a reference to the controversial Southern Connector roadway, now known as the Champlain Parkway. The 38 filing drawers represent every year from the road’s 1965 conception to the cabinet’s 2002 construction. Like the cabinet, the fate of the Parkway is still up in the air.

Queen Connie FIND HER: Along Route 7 in Leicester

It’s impossible to miss Queen Connie, a gorilla hoisting an old Volkswagen Beetle into the air high above Route 7. And that’s kind of the point: Sculptor T.J. Neil pitched the massive sculpture to Pioneer Auto Sales, the used car lot nearby, as a clever advertising gimmick. Sure enough, Connie — named for her concrete medium — has been turning heads since her construction in 1987. She even topped Car & Driver magazine’s 1991 list of “Carchitectural Wonders.” 14

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FIND THEM: By the roundabout at routes 15 and 108 in Jeffersonville

One of Vermont’s largest outdoor murals is spread across two 36-foot-tall silos in Jeffersonville. It’s a canvas well suited to the mural’s message about Vermont’s past, present and future: One silo portrays the face of an aging farmer, while the other shows an 8-yearold child. “The Silo Project,” by painter Sarah C. Rutherford, brought new life to the old silos, which once belonged to the Bell-Gates Lumber Corporation, and put a community that was once easy to drive by on the map as a destination.


JORDAN ADAMS

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6/19/20 4:11 PM

WE'RE HERE FOR YOU Books • Puzzles • Gifts • Sh o p in - store : 10am- 5 pm daily

• S ho p onl ine 24/7 : www .phoenixbook s.b iz

Table Rock

• Fr e e sh ipp ing for or ders over $ 20 ( al l ot hers sh ip for $4 )

FIND IT: Off Route 140 in Tinmouth

JOHN JAMES

No beanstalk is necessary to enter the land of giants — or at least that’s what an art installation in Tinmouth seems to suggest. From the road, drivers can witness four massive wooden chairs gathered around a gargantuan boulder, which appears to be set for dinner, with tree trunk slabs for plates and birch cylinders for cups. This oversize landmark, known as Table Rock, makes an even larger statement: Lifelong Tinmouth resident Marshall Squier created the piece in response to the Iraq War, wishing that such conflicts could instead be resolved by sitting down peacefully at a table together.

• Curb si de p ick-up avail able

• C al l u s t o or d e r b y p h on e or fo r re commen dati ons

2 Carmichael Street, Essex Jct. 802.872.7111 191 Bank Street, downtown Burlington 802.448.3350 2 Center Street, downtown Rutland 802.855.8078

Raised Middle Finger FIND IT: Along Route 128 in Westford

When Westford town officials refused to issue resident Ted Pelkey permits to build an 8,000-square-foot garage on his property, he let them know exactly what he thought. Pelkey mounted a 6-foot-tall, 700-pound wooden sculpture of a raised middle finger on a 16-foot pole on his front lawn. How is a larger-than-life fist flipping the bird for all to see allowed when a garage is not? The $4,000 creation is considered public art. The gigantic gesture went viral after it was erected in late 2018; as WCAX-TV reported, musician Kid Rock caught wind of it and ordered his own. The other fist now resides in Nashville, Tenn.

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We Still Have a Good Selection of Hobie Mirage Kayaks in Stock

Social Distancing at it's finest SMALL BOAT EXCHANGE

2649 Shelburne Road • 985-5222 • smallboatvt.com 6H-smallboat062420.indd 1

Say you saw it in...

J

6/22/20 12:39 PM

NOW IN sevendaysvt.com

SEVEN DAYS STAYTRIPPER JULY 2020

3D!

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Visit local farmers markets, farm stands, & pick-your-own farms.

PICK-YOUR-OWN

FARMERS MARKETS

FARM STANDS

Enjoy the beauty & bounty of Vermont’s farms! Local as usual, safer than ever! Farmers markets, farm stands, and pick-your-own farms are opening, but it’s not business as usual! Markets and farms are required to follow state guidance to ensure the safest environment for shoppers and farmers alike. Please be patient with farmers

& market vendors as they are doing their best to comply with the guidance and still be able to offer local products to their communities. Get outside & enjoy the farm season!

¢

FIND FARMS & MARKETS NEAR YOU: NOFAVT.ORG/BUYDIRECT 16

SEVEN DAYS STAYTRIPPER

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Destination VERMONT AFRICAN AMERICAN HERITAGE TRAIL COURTESY OF ROKEBY MUSEUM

Statewide locations, vtafricanamericanheritage.net

373 Blair Park Rd Williston Essex Junction - Coming Soon www.thescalevt.com 11 am- 8 pm daily Untitled-2 1

6/22/20 8:27 AM

Rokeby Museum

In recent weeks, demonstrators have gathered in cities across the country to honor the lives of Black Americans killed by law enforcement officers and to demand an end to police brutality. Vermonters have joined such protests and gatherings, too — in Burlington and Bellows Falls, Springfield and St. Albans, Milton and Montpelier, and beyond. In a state that’s overwhelmingly white — 94.2 percent, according to the latest U.S. Census — there’s much Vermonters can learn about the experience of Black Americans, both today and historically. The Vermont African American Heritage Trail informs those who travel it of “the enduring contributions of Vermonters of African heritage and the role of white Vermonters in both Vermont and American civil rights history,” its website states. An initiative of the Vermont Partnership for Fairness and Diversity in collaboration with the Vermont Department of Tourism and Marketing, the heritage trail leads to museums, self-guided walking tours and historic sites across the state. While not all locations are currently open, due to the pandemic, plenty of sites are still accessible. These include Woodstock’s River Street Cemetery, which contains the graves of eight soldiers of the Civil War’s all-Black Massachusetts 54th Regiment; Ferrisburgh’s Rokeby Museum (reopening July 1), a National Historic Landmark and Underground Railroad site; and East Poultney’s Jeffrey Brace Historic Marker, which commemorates the memoirist of 1810’s The Blind African Slave. Plan a road trip around some of these important and educational stops. CAROLYN FOX

Also try: • •

STATE HISTORIC SITES historicsites.vermont.gov KIDS VT’S GOOD CITIZEN CHALLENGE goodcitizenvt.com Untitled-18 1

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A Moveable

Feast

CHAMPLAIN ORCHARDS APPLES, from Shoreham, are crisp, juicy, and readily available year-round at most grocery stores and markets.

Local snacks to pack for the drive BY C AROLYN F OX

OLIVE CIABATTA ROLLS, made by O Bread

bakery at Shelburne Farms, pack in not one, not two, but six types of olives. These crusty, salty rolls are ideal for grab-and-go sustenance.

SWITCHEL, the signature drink of Hardwick’s Vermont Switchel Company, historically helped farmers quench their thirst. Sip this blend of maple syrup, apple cider vinegar, lemon, ginger and molasses to stay hydrated on a hot summer day.

CABOT CHEDDAR CRACKER CUTS are presliced for

on-the-go ease and available in seven flavors. The Seriously Sharp variety is complex and intense and pairs well with crackers and fresh fruit.

A CHOCOLATE BAR from Burlington’s

NU Chocolat, kept in a cooler or sunwarmed and eaten just before it gets too melty, is a fancy treat to elevate any road trip.

O.W.L. ENERGY BARS, made in Brattleboro, are gluten-free, dairy-free, and packed with wholesome ingredients including peanut butter, oats and raw honey — a little boost to get you through a long day.

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SEVEN DAYS STAYTRIPPER JULY 2020

KIRSTEN CHENEY

KAREN’S ARTISAN POPCORN, based in Burlington, makes small-batch, kettlecooked popcorn in sweet and savory flavors — think Smokin’ Chipotle and Maple Kettle Bliss. Snackers will keep returning for the signature Herbaceous Blend.


Destination LEMON FAIR SCULPTURE PARK 4547 Route 74, East Shoreham, lemonfairsculpturepark.com

Though the pandemic has shuttered many museums and galleries, those looking to appreciate art can safely do so outside. Eight miles southwest of Middlebury College, Lemon Fair Sculpture Park boasts a mowed, mile-and-a-half walking path that snakes through grassy fields, past 49 large sculptures made from steel, titanium, stone and concrete. Named for the slow and silty river that runs through the property, Lemon Fair is situated on 360 acres of land owned by art enthusiasts Frank and Elaine Ittleman — a University of Vermont Medical Center cardiothoracic surgeon and a labor and delivery nurse, respectively. Some sculptures are abstract, such as Brooklyn artist John Clements’ “The Tiller,” a playful orange Also try: swirl reminiscent of a twisted-up pool noodle. Others • PATH OF LIFE SCULPTURE GARDEN are amusing, like Newark, 36 Park Rd., Windsor, Vt.-based Martin McGowan’s greatriveroutfitters.com “Fish on a Bicycle,” which is • DRIVE-BY HAYFIELD ART GALLERY inspired by the feminist slogan 671 River Rd., Pawlet, evensteve.com “A woman needs a man like a fish needs a bicycle.” Three years ago, Vermont sculptor Peter Lundberg created “Leap of Faith” on-site; Frank calls it the “focal point” of the park. The wavy concrete form rises 30 feet high and weighs 60,000 pounds. The Ittlemans, who opened their property to the public in 2016, began with about a dozen sculptures and have expanded their collection each year. About 10 of the sculptures are for sale, with information listed on the park’s website. The park is open for self-guided tours seven days a week through November. Picnicking and on-leash dogs are permitted. The Ittlemans say there’s been an appreciable increase in visitors during COVID-19. “It’s healthy. It’s a great relaxant,” Frank says of strolling the property. “We call it the ‘art heart walk.’”

KEN PICARD

ALISON NOVAK

Feel Good. Do Good! Feeling disappointed about the things you can’t do this season? Here’s how to have a feel-good summer:

Step One: Explore Vermont. Step Two: Learn something new. Step Three: Be a Good Citizen. TAKE THE GOOD CITIZEN CHALLENGE, a youth civics program for young people in grades K-12. Each month we’ll announce new activities focusing on history, community, government, advocacy and news literacy to keep you and your family active and engaged.

Summer

2020 With support from:

Powered by:

Evslin Family Foundation

VIEW ACTIVITIES AT

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Support Your Community:

Get It To-Go!

The restrictions placed on restaurants are evolving, but many Vermont businesses are still making delicious food and drinks. INTRODUCES SPONSORED BY

Check GoodToGoVermont.com to see which businesses are serving up takeout, delivery, curbside pickup or on-site dining.

G O O D T O G O V E R M O N T . C O M 20

SEVEN DAYS STAYTRIPPER

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Destination KINGDOM TRAILS East Burke, kingdomtrails.org; see website for parking sites

the BIRDS of VERMONT MUSEUM

Vermont Canoe & Kayak Canoe, Kayak & Paddleboard Rentals & Guided Tours on the Lamoille River

where natural history meets art

1 0 % OFF rental

s for Vermonters!

900 Sherman Hollow Road • Huntington, VT 05462 802-434-2167 • www.birdsofvermont.org

WOODCARVINGS • TRAILS • BIRDING

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802-644-2069

Located right behind the Cupboard Deli. Local, family fun!

802-644-8336 vtcanoeandkayak.com

6/22/20 11:11 AM

Say you saw it in...

JEB WALLACE-BRODEUR

sevendaysvt.com 6/18/20 10:49 AM RETURN to the GARDEN paintings by KATE LONGMAID

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Bike magazine calls it “the best trail network in North America.” Ride magazine calls it “fantastic, with miles and miles of unique trails and terrain.” So what is it, exactly, that makes Kingdom Trails so special? First, this nonprofit Northeast Kingdom recreational network has more than 100 miles of nonmotorized trails, suitable for all seasons and ability levels. Second, it all exists on 97 private properties, whose owners generously allow the trails to cross their lands. And third, it’s the reverence that those who bike, ski and snowshoe Kingdom Trails have for the place. Indeed, spurred by COVID-19, the nonprofit introduced a new code of conduct this season that sums it up nicely: “Ride with gratitude.” It’s contingent on four principles: “respect this gift,” “protect nature,” “care for others” and “set the example.” Recognizing that outdoor recreation is “crucial to people’s physical and mental well-being, especially amidst this time of crisis,” Kingdom Trails is open with pandemic precautions in place. Read up on the specific policies before you take advantage of the single-track biking trails for which this place is known — as the website notes, “the network has become world-famous as a mountain biking mecca.” There are also trails designated for families and beginners, as well as pedestrian paths for those who prefer to hoof it.

fine art gallery - custom framing restoration services

fsgallery.com 802 985 3848 on view through July 10th

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86 Falls Road, Shelburne 6/19/20 4:13 PM

CAROLYN FOX

Also try: • •

CATAMOUNT OUTDOOR FAMILY CENTER, 592 Governor Chittenden Rd., Williston, catamountoutdoorfamilycenter.org SPORT TRAILS OF THE ASCUTNEY BASIN, stabvt.org Untitled-22 1

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Kids’ Activity Page Family Road Trip

COLOR ME!

A fill-in-the-blank story

“C’mon kids, it’s time for a road trip,” ________________ announced. FAMILY MEMBER

“Let’s see what our _________________ Mountain State has to offer today.” COLOR

We all packed into the _________ and took off. Luckily, _____________________ NOUN

PERSON IN THE ROOM

had remembered to bring tasty ________________ in case we got hungry. SNACK FOOD

My favorite! I entertained myself by ____________________ while my __________________ ADJECTIVE

VERB ENDING IN “–ING”

little sister ____________________. VERB ENDING IN “–ED”

Soon, I got bored and peered out the window. I couldn’t believe my eyes! There were ________________________ ________________________ on the grass. TYPE OF ANIMAL, PLURAL

VERB ENDING IN “–ING”

After _________ hours, we arrived at ___________________________. NUMBER

VERMONT DESTINATION

I ___________________ out of the car and shouted, “________________ !” EXCLAMATION

VERB ENDING IN “–ED”

Summer

We spent the whole afternoon exploring the ____________________

2020

PLURAL NOUN

and listening to the ___________________ make their _______________ sounds. TYPE OF BIRD, PLURAL

ADJECTIVE

We even ran into ___________________ along the way. FAMOUS PERSON

Sadly, I tripped on a _____________ and hurt my ______________. BODY PART

NOUN

That’s when my parents announced it was time to go home. Another __________________ day in Vermont! ADJECTIVE

I Spy… Check off all that you see on your next Vermont adventure.

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Red barn Creemee stand Personalized license plate Cow Farmstand Gravel road Lake monster Ford F-150 SEVEN DAYS STAYTRIPPER JULY 2020

❍ ❍ ❍ ❍ ❍ ❍ ❍ ❍

Chicken Food truck Eat More Kale bumper sticker Covered bridge Golden dome Hay-bale sculpture Funny road name Sign for maple syrup

Be a Good Citizen This Summer Are there any historic markers near your Staytripper destinations? Stop and take a photo of yourselves with the

signs and submit the images to the Good Citizen Challenge! Visiting historic markers is just one of the activities in this summertime youth civics project, which is open to kids in grades K-12. Others include reading a newspaper, listening to a podcast about Vermont road names and reading The Hate U Give, Vermont Humanities' 2020 Vermont Reads selection. Each month this summer, the Challenge Masters will post new activities to goodcitizenvt.com. Submit a completed activity on the site to be entered in a drawing to win a gift card from a Vermont business. Some submissions will be published in summer issues of Kids VT.

VIEW ACTIVITIES AT

GOODCITIZENVT.COM With support from:

Evslin Family Foundation

Powered by:


“I love a dynamic downtown, full of life, creativity, great food, shopping options and live music. If we don’t support downtown businesses, this thriving cultural and economic center as we know it could irreversibly decline. There is no disputing that the experience of connecting with people, touching product and seeing stores is always a more human experience than going to Amazon.” SARAH PHANEUF OWNER, SLATE

Take a break from the big guys and support local first. Vermont merchants have faced mandatory store closures and other challenges during the COVID-19 pandemic. Even as some open back up, others operate online only. All need your support.

WITH GENEROUS SUPPORT FROM:

PICTURED: SLATE, 89 CHURCH ST., BURLINGTON, SLATEHOME.CO (JAMES BUCK)

1t-TheRegister062420.indd 1

Visit the Register for all the info on area shopkeepers who are selling their products online for local delivery or curbside pickup. Browse by categories ranging from jewelry to electronics, outdoor gear to apparel. Whether you need something for yourself or that perfect gift for a loved one, shop savvy and keep Vermont strong. SHOP T HE R EGIS T E R .C OM SEVEN DAYS STAYTRIPPER

JULY 2020

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“I SPY... SOMETHING DIFFERENT.” FIND TRAVEL GUIDANCE, TRIP IDEAS TO INSPIRE, AND MUCH MORE.

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6/22/20 10:43 AM