MEREDITH MIOTKE
The Farm Powered® Vermont Vision ■ Recycle Vermont food and beverage waste ■ Collect, separate, and process that waste ■ Generate clean renewable energy ■ Support local dairy farms middle finger to haute cuisine. He has no pretensions.
Christian Kruse, executive chef, Edelweiss Mountain Deli, Stowe All About Braising: The Art of Uncomplicated Cooking by Molly Stevens (W.W. Norton, 2004)
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Coi: Stories and Recipes by Daniel Patterson (Phaidon Press, 2013)
All About Braising is a cookbook I feel that every chef or cook should have in their collection. I’ve used this book as a foundation for my braising techniques — simple yet powerful. The flavors, ingredients and techniques are made very approachable for the home cook, but Molly also brings a unique perspective. I really like how involved in film. It was written in Christian Kruse she uses brisket Italian and translated. instead of chuck in SE RU COU NK Reading it is kind of like watching R TE S Y O F C H R IS TIA a pot roast. Chuck has a movie that’s a series of vignettes. Buzzi always been the preferred is all over the place; it’s a very anecdotal classic cut to use. The fat content, tenderbook. He’ll reference the pope and then ness and bold flavor of brisket make pot Paul Bocuse, one of the old-school chefs. roast so much more. Then he’ll go to James Fenimore Cooper, I have always been fascinated by who wrote The Last of the Mohicans, and Californian cuisine because it’s similar what he was eating when he read the to what we do here in Vermont when it book. He also talks about fish sauce and comes to farm-to-table. The simplicity a Mafia chef he knew who made the best and powerful flavors are what inspire BLT. me in Coi, chef Daniel Patterson’s cookFergus Henderson’s Whole Beast book. I had the luxury of eating at his influenced me a lot. The book is really amazing restaurant in 2016. He uses easy to follow. It’s a rudimentary book seasonal ingredients thoughtfully and for young cooks. Everybody should have concentrates on the true flavor of each it, not just aspiring cooks. ingredient without overshadowing He and his restaurant [St. John them with unnecessary ingredients or Restaurant in London] kind of built a sauces. cult following. He was the guy who put Patterson’s spot prawn recipe with marrow, all offal, really, back on the menu cipollini onions and sorrel is a prime exam— and it blew up. Henderson was instru- ple. He brines the prawns and simply grills mental in the whole format of the gastro- them to perfection and keeps the purity pub. He wanted to express his English of flavor. To complement, he serves them roots. And at the height of his success, he with clarified butter and juiced sorrel, was dealing with Parkinson’s. again clear and simple flavors. The best thing about him, I think, is that he unintentionally flipped a COOKBOOKS TO CURL UP WITH » P.50
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