FREE ATHENS
OFAN MOSAICURBAN
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IF YOU WANT TO LEARN SOMETHING MORE ABOUT THE HISTORY OF GREECE, THIS IS AN EXHIBITION YOU SHOULD DEFINITELY VISIT.
REFUGEES IN THE WAKE OF THE LAUSANNE TREATY.
The National Bank of Greece contributes to their integration in the new homeland
Until 19 April 2026
Athens Old (Small) Stock Exchange Hall
(1 Pesmazoglou St.)
Tues., Wed., Sat., Sun.: 9:00 – 17:00
Thurs., Fri.: 12:00 – 20:00
Closed on Mondays and public holidays
For more information go to https://ha.nbg.gr/el/news
The Historical Archive of the National Bank of Greece highlights, through selected archival documents it preserves, aspects of the widespread and multifaceted effort of the Greek State to respond, with the Bank’s contribution, to the major issue of the refugee rehabilitation following the signing of the Lausanne Treaty.
At the beginning of the 20th century, the First World War, the disintegration of the Ottoman Empire, the establishment of the new national state of Turkey, the failure of the Asia Minor Expedition and the signing of the Convention concerning the compulsory population exchange led a significant number of Christian and Muslim populations to become uprooted from their homelands. Approximately 1,500,000 Christian refugees from Asia Minor, Pontus and Eastern Thrace arrived in Greece in the years 1912 to 1924. With the support of the international community, the Greek State was called upon to provide solutions to the acute humanitarian crisis that had emerged.
The National Bank of Greece was amongst the active forces that supported the state in its effort to achieve refugee rehabilitation and gradual integration into Greek society. Its manifold contribution included, primarily, the management of the exchanged Muslim properties in parallel with the payment of the state estimated provisional compensation to the “urban” refugees. Relevant documents are safekept at its Historical Archive.
Under the guidance of existing archival material, digital applications and audiovisual aids, the exhibition narrative evolves along two thematic axes:
A. The National Bank of Greece acts in support of the national endeavour
B. The refugees in the Greek social fabric
N MOSAIC
photos: Nicolas Economou
A hub for modern greek history
THE MUSEUM OF NATIONAL BANK OF GREECE HISTORICAL ARCHIVE
The Historical Archive of National Bank of Greece (HA/NBG) was established in 1938. From then onward, the aim of the institute lies in safeguarding and promoting the archival material of historical significance that is in the possession of the Bank. Since 2002 it has been housed in the renovated Megaro Diomidi, a modern architectural monument that was built in the 1920s. Nowadays it constitutes a multipurpose centre of documentation and culture that is open to the wider public. You are welcome to visit the specially designated museum halls where the following exhibitions are hosted:
1. “The history of the Greek banknote: A journey 1822 - 2002”
2. “The history of National Bank of Greece as reflected in its archives and collections”
3. “Security printing processes and machinery”
Admission is free.
Opening hours: Monday & Wednesday 10:00-14:00
Please follow the QR Code to find out about our temporary exhibitions and activities, as well as any changes that may occur.
Megaro Diomidi, 146 Tritis
Septemvriou St., 112 51
E: ha-nbg@nbg.gr
T.: +30 210 88 07 804
& +30 210 88 07 805
•500m / VICTORIA METRO LINE 1
COFFEE WITH CHARACTER
UBUNTU
In a city that never stops moving, Ubuntu invites you to slow down, just enough to breathe, look around, and taste the moment. This cozy café in Thissio is built for slow sips, shared tables, and easy smiles. Coffee here is an adventure: carefully selected blends that change often, bringing unexpected flavours from faraway places straight to your cup. Pair them with vegan treats, both sweet and savory, and you’re already winning. But Ubuntu doesn’t stop at great coffee. With a warm, laid-back atmosphere and a lively calendar of events, it quietly turns into a neighbourhood living room. People come for a latte, stay for the conversation, and leave feeling part of something familiar. In the end of the day, Ubuntu is a social hub and it’ s welcoming, flavourful, and deeply human. Here, the city finally exhales.
58 Nileos St., Thissio
T: +30 210 34 10 566
Fb: Ubuntu_ath
Ig: ubuntu_thiseio
EDITOR’S NOTE
Every time we begin discussions for the next issue of Free Athens our excitement is genuine. Working on a new issue sparks creativity because, together with our readers, we rediscover the city ourselves. Honestly, do you know where the Ancient Heptathron was, or what it actually was? We want our content to be original, fresh, and useful. Our guiding principle is simple: we think about what we would want to hold in our hands as visitors in a foreign country.
After eight issues, starting in the summer of 2018, here comes the ninth – and it is a wintry one. This year’s edition is playful, full of zoom-ins and zoom-outs, just like a real walk through the city.
Athens is a city of big and small, essential and trivial, refined and rough, anonymous and famous, details and overviews. That last pairing is our focus here. Does the whole make sense without the specific, or the specific without the whole? Sometimes a detail pulls you in… a carved door, a piece of graffiti. Other times, it’s something monumental, like the Acropolis. Together, they are Athens.
Before you feel lost in chaos, take the chance to become part of it. That’s exactly what we hope this issue will help you do.
The editorial team of Free Athens
FREE ATHENS
Editorial & Creative Designers: Myrto Steliou Iro Pitsikali
Editors: Stergiana Tzegka Ilektra Tzortsou
Marketing & sales: Nikoleta Vikou
Christina Aggelakopoulou
Gabriella Kasapi
Thodoris Diamantopoulos
Photography: Thanasis Karanikas
Front desk: Christina Rountzouni
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BITS OF AN URBAN MOSAIC
FREE ATHENS
THIS ISSUE FEATURES:
ANDREAS BONATSOS GALLERY P. 02
THE MUSEUM OF NATIONAL BANK OF GREECE HISTORICAL ARCHIVE P. 04
UBUNTU P. 06
KOTSANAS MUSEUM P.11
HELLENIC MOTOR MUSEUM P. 11
ATHENS ENGLISH COMEDY CLUB P. 13
OV OFF STUDIO P. 13
ATHENS WINE TASTING P. 15
THE OLIVETUDE P. 15
POLYGLOT P. 17
ALMOS TRAVEL P. 17
ANASTASIOU BREWERY P. 21
SANTO BELTO P. 23
BLENDER P. 23
MOZZART PIZZA P. 25
ZUZUTO RAMEN P. 25
ATITAMOS P. 27
OUZERI LESVOS P. 27
BAREFOOT LAB P. 31
LE PETIT MAGIQUE P. 31
ATHINEISSA X THE ATHENIAN CANDLESHOP P. 31
CHONI MEZEDOPOLEIO RESTAURANT P. 35
LEFKA P. 35
IT’S A VILLAGE P. 36
GNOU P. 36
DIONYSOS P. 37
THE GARDEN P. 37
KYVELI P. 38
VOLCANO PREMIUM HERBSTONES P. 41
AU REVOIR P. 43
FRATTI BISTRO P. 43
TAPFIELD P. 45
IPPOPOTAMOS BAR P. 45
BIO REWILD P. 47
NIRITON P. 47
BATZINA P. 47
PIROLIKI P. 51
NOSTIMIES TIS MAIRIS P. 51
AGIOS P. 53
DISCOMPALA P. 53
STEPA P. 55
AEROSTATO P. 55
ACHILLEAS-VERGINA & ROZALIA P. 57
KLIMATARIA P. 57
TO TRIKYKLO P. 61
KAFENIO O AGIOS P. 61
EPIGRAPHIC MUSEUM P. 65
HERACLEIDON MUSEUM P. 67
KUZINA BACK COVER
MISPLACED OR EXACTLY WHERE IT SHOULD BE?
Who’s watching the street without blinking? A figure holds the weight above it, not walking, not speaking, just standing guard. Human, but not quite. It belongs to a house. What kind of home needs a statue to keep its balance?
*
To discover its name and story, keep turning pages until you reach the one numbered 40
KOTSANAS MUSEUM OF ANCIENT GREEK TECHNOLOGY
6 Pindarou St. & Akadimias, Kolonaki
T.: +30 211 41 10 044
Fb: Kotsanas Museum of Ancient Greek Technology
Ig: kotsanasmuseum | www.kotsanas.com
•400m / SYNTAGMA METRO LINES 2, 3
The ancient Greeks are famed for philosophy, art, and science but their technology remains largely unknown. The Kotsanas Museum of Ancient Greek Technology brings this hidden legacy to light. Its permanent exhibition, Ancient Greece – the Origins of Technologies, features around 300 working models of ancient inventions, many of them interactive. From engineering to mechanics, the museum reveals how remarkably advanced Greek technology was, often anticipating innovations of the early modern world.
HELLENIC MOTOR MUSEUM
78 Tritis Septemvriou St.
T.: +30 210 8816 187
Fb: Hellenic Motor Museum
Ig: hellenicmotormuseum www.hellenicmotormuseum.gr
•200m / VICTORIA METRO LINE 1
The Hellenic Motor Museum is a must-see attraction in town! It is housed in the postmodern CAPITOL complex, designed with an Art Deco aesthetic, evoking the spirit of New York. Displaying cars from the 20th century, the museum presents 112 exhibits in a 3,000 square-meter space. Visitors ascending the spiral staircase, inspired by Frank Lloyd Wright’s in the Guggenheim Museum, from the street to the main exhibition space have the opportunity to also see an uninterrupted exhibition of about 72 wheels, from ancient times to 1985.
Athens isn’t exactly famous for places where you can pause and rest; there are few parks, little shade, and very few benches. In ancient times, however, the approach was different... Why not sit on something as hard as a rock? Better than nothing.
BUT WHAT ON EARTH WERE THOSE ANCIENT GREEKS UP TO, ANYWAY?
If you want to find out why the Ancient Greeks used to sit on carved rocks, go to page 42
ATHENS ENGLISH COMEDY CLUB
127 Konstantinoupoleos St., Votanikos
T.: +30 698 79 94 689
Ig | Fb | TikTok: Athens English Comedy Club
E: athensenglishcomedyclub@gmail.com
•550m / KERAMEIKOS METRO LINE 3
The Athens English comedy club is the first, and only, purely English comedy club in Greece; presenting local and international comedians right in the heart of Athens. Founded in 2019, the club has since hosted lineup shows, open mics, solo shows, online competitions, and comedy workshops, with more than 160 comedians from 39 countries, and counting. Join them and enjoy a different lineup of experienced acts and exciting newcomers at every show. A potluck of comedy! Colourful, comedic chaos! All in English!
SHARED EXPERIENCES
OV OFF STUDIO
22 Feidippidou St. (3rd fl.), Ambelokipi
T.: +30 693 625 0571
www.ovoffstudio.gr
Fb: Ov Off Studio
Ig: ov_off_studio_gr
•650m / AMBELOKIPI METRO LINE 3
Ov Off Studio is a space dedicated to artistic creation and research, led by composer and performance artist Nefeli Stamatogiannopoulou and is home for her artistic ensemble Ov Off. The studio has become a key point for the Athens contemporary, avant-garde, experimental, and free music scene, hosting live music events alongside rehearsals and recording sessions. The 80 m² space hosts workshops, masterclasses, and intimate live performances, bringing together music, theatre, poetry, visual arts, and movement. Mission: to unite romantics, skeptics, spontaneous spirits, and artists without borders.
An uneven yet so unifying path in the most beautiful area of Athens. A path that is a work of art. Millions of people have walked it, but few know its history. This path knows very well how to lead you to one of the most beautiful historical monuments in the world.
*
If you want to find out where this path will lead you and learn its history, jump to the page 44
ATHENS WINE TASTING
9 Tournavitou St., Thissio
Τ.: +30 697 7912 893
Ig: athens_winetasting
Fb: Athens Wine Tasting www.athens-winetasting.com
•300m / THISSIO METRO LINE 1
•500m / MONASTIRAKI METRO LINES 1, 2
Athens Wine Tasting offers small, semi-private and private wine tastings led by experienced guides. Guests taste outstanding wines, explore distinctive flavours, and learn about wine, ancient Greek wine culture, and the unique local grape varieties. The experience includes myths of Dionysus, the Greek god of wine and fertility, alongside a virtual journey through enchanting Greek vineyards.
For extra fun, join the unique wine workshop. With our guidance become an oenologist for a day and create your own blend, bottle it, wax it, and design your custom label for your wine bottle to take home with!
SHARED EXPERIENCES
THE OLIVETUDE
Discover olive oil like never before at our exclusive tasting experience! Explore a curated selection of premium extra virgin olive oils and learn what sets exceptional quality apart. Guided by certified olive oil sommeliers, in Olivetude you will uncover aromas, flavours, and textures shaped by origin, harvest, and craftsmanship. From fresh and grassy to bold and peppery, each tasting reveals something new. Best of all, you can purchase the olive oils you taste and take your favourites home.
18-20 Falirou St., Koukaki T.: +30 21 3047 9649
Mob: +30 694 56 93 326
Ig: theolivetude experience@olivetude.com
•350m / ACROPOLI METRO LINE 2
You’ll spot them before you hear them: standing by the busiest streets, guarding thin pads of hope. A quick exchange on the pavement, face to face. Who are they? Clue: there are nearly 5,000 certified keepers of luck scattered across Greek streets.
If you want to know more, turn to page 46
POLYGLOT
84 Akadimias St., Exarchia
Τ.: +30 210 33 00 455
Fb: Polyglot Bookstore www.polyglotbooks.gr
•450m / OMONIA METRO LINE 2
Welcome to Greece! We hope you enjoy your stay in Athens, accompanied by a good read in your language. Polyglot is a contemporary bookstore with over 20,000 book titles for both adults and children in English, French, Italian, Spanish, Portuguese, German, Turkish and more. Located in the heart of Athens, it offers a unique multilingual experience with a wide selection of the latest bestsellers and timeless classics. Visit Polyglot and immerse yourself in a world of literature while enjoying the vibrant city of Athens. Happy reading!
WHERE ALL THE PATHS MEET
A place shaped by constant movement. Trains run underneath, crowds pass above, and different centuries exist within a few steps of each other. Worship, trade, waiting, and wandering happen side by side. It has changed names, uses, and faces over time, yet it always remains the heart of the city. Can you guess? Surely, you’ve already seen it!
If you’re dying of curiosity to learn more details about the most central square of Athens, go to page 48 *
WHERE DO ALL THE ROADS OF EXARCHIA LEAD EVERY SATURDAY?
Peggy is young and curious, so how does life in Exarchia feel to her?
Exarchia is the neighbourhood where everything happens. It’s small, yet somehow also vast: endless food options, and at the same time, the inevitable run-in with that ex whose name you might not even remember anymore. Exarchia is a place where chaos and harmony coexist, where the old meets the new and it never stops surprising you.
If you want to discover those wonderful Saturdays in Exarchia, turn to page 50
LOCAL BEER, PURE FLAVOUR
ANASTASIOU BREWERY
For years in Greece, beer sat awkwardly on the sidelines, treated as a casual refreshment, not something to share, discuss, or savor. Fotis Anastasiou decided to do something bold: he built a microbrewery in the northern suburbs of Athens and gave beer a rightful place at the table.
What began as a trial became a hands-on brewing playground, where hops, malt, and curiosity meet. Each batch is brewed with care and personality, delivering the unique charm of Greek craft beer – unfiltered, unapologetic, straight from the tap.
Right next door, The Local Pub now completes the story. It’s where these beers meet their people, making Athenians rethink what local beer can be. Together, brewery and pub form a small but potent hub of flavour and experimentation, quietly reshape the city’s beer culture. One glass at a time, Anastasiou proves Athens has plenty to say and offer in the brewing industry.
25 Chaimanta St., Halandri
Τ.: +30 694 08 64 443
Ig: anastasiou_brewery
•900m / HALANDRI METRO LINE 3
WHERE MIGHT THIS CURVE-FILLED LITTLE CHURCH BE LOCATED?
Athens is full of small churches hidden within neighbourhoods, as well as alongside major roads, where you least expect them. Some of them are very old – architectural gems with a long history that draw you into other eras. Whether you are religious or not, their beauty and monumental presence cannot leave you unmoved.
If you want to explore its surrounding, go to page 52
SANTO BELTO
Nestled in Agias Zonis pedestrian street, Santo Belto is a specialty coffee shop, a concept store, and a creative neighbourhood hub. Locality is everything here, from wines and beers to fresh ingredients – the team actively supports nearby producers, markets, and grocers. Beyond coffee, brunch, soups, and evening bites, the space hosts various art workshops, talks, and events. Guests can sip coffee while making their own ceramics, or join wine and coffee tastings, community gatherings, and social impact projects, making it a spot definitely worth visiting.
EAT DRINK REPEAT
BLENDER
Blender was born from Vincent’s desire to bring images and experiences of his travels back to Athens, the city where he grew up. He revived an abandoned neoclassical building and transformed it into a space for connection. Upcycling defines the philosophy, with repurposed materials and leftovers becoming furniture and art. Collaborating with small producers, Blender curates distinctive flavours. It brings together a cafe-bar, Basket, a food area inspired by global picnic traditions, and rooms welcoming travelers from Greece and abroad seeking shared stories and connections.
21 Agias Zonis St., Kypseli
T.: +30 211 71 51 755
Fb: Santo Belto
Ig: santobelto
•1,2km / AGIOS NIKOLAOS METRO LINE 1
14 Odisseos St., Metaxourghio
Τ.: +30 210 52 23 954
Ig: basket_takeashot
www.basket.entertheblender.com
•160m / METAXOURGHIO METRO LINE 2
In some apartment buildings in the center of Athens, the more observant will notice that there are certain holes, certain marks. Is it the architect’s aesthetic choice? Did Obelix pass through the city of Athens to play football?
WHAT MIGHT THESE HOLES MEAN?
If the above explanations did not seem convincing to you, turn to page 54 to learn the (w)hole truth
MOZZART PIZZA
In the historic heart of Athens, on the pedestrian corner of Chryssospiliotissis and Praxitellous, Mozzart Pizza turns pizza into art! Long-fermented dough, matured for up to 48 hours, blends Neapolitan and Roman traditions, while ingredients arrive straight from Italy. Classic, inventive, and vegan toppings are served by the slice or whole. Sit outside, grab takeaway, or order delivery. And now, the Mozzart experience expands with a new location in Holargos, bringing its unmistakable pizza art even closer to you.
1 Chryssospiliotissis St., T.: +30 210 321 4183
•550m / MONASTIRAKI METRO LINES 1, 3
9 25th Martiou St., Holargos T.: +30 210 654 7190
•1,5km / CHOLARGOS
METRO LINE 3
Fb: Mozzart Pizza Ig: Mozzart.Athens
EAT DRINK REPEAT
ZUZUTO RAMEN
The beloved Zuzuto Ramen has just opened its newest location at Skoufa 73, expanding the philosophy of the original into a larger, fresher space. Staying true to authentic Japanese cuisine, the new spot (just like the original) features fresh housemade noodles, pure 100% broths, and carefully prepared flavours that reward patience and craft. With an impressive spirit and cocktail list, and the same warm, family-style hospitality, Zuzuto remains a cozy, welcoming destination that easily becomes a regular haunt for japanese food lovers.
73 Skoufa St., Kolonaki T: +30 216 30 02 890
•500m / PANEPISTIMIO METRO LINE 2
66 Chalkidonos St., Ambelokipi T: +30 211 73 58 345
•750m / AMBELOKIPI METRO LINE 3
Fb: Zuzuto Ramen | Ig: zuzutoramen www.zuzutoramen.gr
IF ATHENS’ CENTER HAD A... CENTER, WHERE WOULD IT BE?
I like taking walks in the city center. Perhaps because it’s connected with many periods of my life: my school years, my student years, and my early professional life; but also because, on the one hand, it gives me the chance to observe more facets of city life than I can in my neighbourhood, and on the other hand, certain activities simply don’t thrive elsewhere. What does Leandros, an Athenian resident –specifically of Kypseli– since 1949, have to tell us about the city center? “
To see where Leandros was photographed, go to page 56
ATITAMOS
2 Kapodistriou St., Exarchia
Τ.: +30 210 33 00 864
Fb: @atitamos
Ig: atitamos_greek_restaurant
•550m / OMONIA METRO LINES 1, 2
Here, greek cuisine blends authenticity, passion, and heritage. From rich meze to seasonal favourites, recipes in Atitamos are crafted for pure satisfaction. Using top-quality ingredients and a deep love for food, each dish delivers the comforting taste of home, day or night. Whether meeting friends or grabbing a quick bite on a busy day, Atitamos greets you with warm hospitality and hearty portions. Follow the enticing aromas along Kapodistriou Street, in Exarchia’s heart, and discover your new favourite spot.
EAT DRINK REPEAT
OUZERI LESVOS
In the heart of Exarchia, Ouzeri Lesvos has been a beloved meeting point since 1967. When the sun is out, sidewalk tables fill with friends, clinking glasses, and seaside aromas; indoors, a warm, traditional setting awaits. The menu celebrates meze –marinated anchovies and mackerel, cuttlefish with vinegar, wild greens, and famous zucchini and potato fritters– perfectly paired with authentic Mytilene ouzo.
38 Emmanouil Benaki St., Exarchia
Τ.: +30 210 38 14 525
Fb: Ouzeri “Lesvos”
Ig: ouzeri_lesvos
•450m / OMONIA METRO LINES 1, 2
This city is filled with statues, stories, and myths. Athena was the goddess of wisdom, war, and the arts. The beloved daughter of Zeus, and perhaps the wisest, bravest, and certainly the most ingenious of all the Olympian gods. She was known for helping many mortals – those she favoured, of course. She aided heroes such as Heracles, Perseus, whom she guided in the defeat of Medusa and Odysseus, whom she accompanied throughout his long journey back to Ithaca. But here, who exactly is she protecting and where do these two stand together, bound in eternity?
ATHENA OVERLOOKING MORE THAN JUST ATHENS...
If you want to know more about their bond, turn to page 58
It stands in marble silence. It reads light, it casts shadows and if you know how to look at it, it will reveal numbers and tell you if you are late. What on earth is something so “retro” doing in a modern metropolis like Athens?
IF TIME EXISTS, WHERE IS IT?
If you want to find out where it is and how it ended up there, turn every page until you find the number 60
BAREFOOT LAB LE PETIT MAGIQUE
Modern life moves fast, and the wrong shoes often leave our feet, knees and lower back paying the price. Barefoot Lab introduces minimalist, barefoot shoes that let your feet move as nature intended. With wide toe boxes & soft flexible soles walking feels almost like being barefoot. Made from recycled, eco-friendly materials, these shoes build strong feet and a solid foundation, so every step feels lighter and more enjoyable.
18 Sina & Akademias St. | T.: +30 211 00 10 181
Fb: Barefoot Lab | Ig: the_barefoot_lab www.barefootlab.gr
•300m / PANEPISTIMIO METRO LINE 2
Le Petit Magique is the brainchild of the designer Katerina Roumelioti. Here, handmade silver jewelry of the highest quality is born. Her collections include stylish modern pieces as well as playful Greek references. There is even a kids collection, perfect if you’re looking for original and fun souvenirs! You are always invited to her showroom and atelier, to see the production process… and even meet her dog!
13 Romvis St., 5th floor, office 1 & 13
Τ.: +30 697 988 8545 | Ig: le_petit_magique
Fb: Le Petit Magique | www.lepetitmagique.gr
•550m / SYNTAGMA METRO LINES 2, 3
ATHINEISSA x
THE ATHENIAN CANDLESHOP
Athineissa x The Athenian Candleshop invites you into the magic of handmade creations! Located on the charming Kallidromiou Street, this cozy shop by Vana and Dionysis offers 100% handmade, vegan treasures – polymer clay jewelry, soy candles, home scents, and art pieces. Inspired by their travels, every item tells a story. Stop by and discover their beautiful world, one handcrafted piece at a time. Meant to be lived with. Meant to be gifted with meaning.
70 Kallidromiou St., Exarchia
T.: +30 697 35 96 228
Ιg: @athineissa
Ig: @theathenian_candleshop
•900m / VICTORIA METRO LINE 1
SHOPPING THE GREEK WAY
12 DOES IT PASS THROUGH HERE? DOES IT REALLY BELONG HERE?
Someone crosses Athens from one end to the other on rails. Someone is constantly on the move and indifferent to the ancient ruins that lie on both sides of them. Someone often has graffiti on them.
If you want to find out who this “someone” is, go to page 62
13 EVERY NEIGHBOURHOOD HAS ONE
If you want to find out where Artemis was photographed, go to page 64
Now, Artemis has something to share with us about her neighbourhood…
“
Ι have been living in Gyzi for the past five years. Although I grew up in Athens, I was not familiar with the area before moving here, nor had I ever passed through it. And I think that what makes this area so special, is that even though it is located in the center of Athens and it is so close to important areas and buildings, it preserves a sense of inwardness and a smallscale character, that help maintaining the feeling of a neighbourhood, even today.
“
CHONI
MEZEDOPOLEIO
RESTAURANT
13 Soultani St., Exarchia
T.: +30 210 38 20 258
Ig: choni_mezedopoleio
Fb: Choni - Mezedopoleio
•600m / OMONIA
METRO LINES 1, 2
Choni is a traditional meze tavern in Exarchia where Greek cuisine keeps its soul but plays with small twists. A fish taverna at heart, with honest options in meat and slow-cooked dishes, it’s built for sharing. Plates for ouzo, tsipouro, wine or beer, at prices that invite another round. Friendly atmosphere, daily specials worth asking for, and bread baked by the owner himself. Choni is for friends, laughter, and conversations that don’t rush. Open all evenings, except Sundays, in the heart of Athens.
EAT DRINK REPEAT
LEFKA
Lefka is one of Athens’ most historic tavernas, hidden in Neapoli of Exarchia. Tucked among apartment blocks, it opens into a leafy garden with vines, plane trees, lavender, and rosemary. Its story begins in the early 20th century as a humble grocery serving wine and simple bites. Over the decades, Lefka evolved into a neighbourhood legend. Today, under new ownership, it blends classic taverna dishes with vegan options, a garden-focused atmosphere, and a small bar serving wine, aperitifs, and cocktails.
121 Mavromichali St., Exarchia
T.: +30 213 02 83 201
Ig: lefka_tavern
•1.2km / PANEPISTIMIO METRO LINE 2
Open daily from 5:00 p.m. Fridays, Saturdays & Sundays from 1:00 p.m.
4 SPOTS YOU SHOULDN’T
MISS
WHEN
IN AGIOS GEORGIOS SQUARE, KYPSELI
Agios Georgios Square, located in the heart of Kypseli, is a lively urban spot surrounded by cafes, restaurants, classical Athenian buildings, and local shops.
•850m / VICTORIA METRO LINE 1
GNOU
13 Eptanisou St., Kypseli Ig: gnou.athens
IT’S A VILLAGE
9 Ithakis St., Kypseli
T.: +30 210 82 20 222
Ig: itsavilatz | Fb: @Bilatz
It’s a village is a unique local gem that combines drinks, flavours, community, and culture. This minimal industrial, but welcoming place offers everything, from artisanal coffee and snacks to pop-up events and exhibitions. Whether you’re grabbing a drink or joining a neighbourhood gathering, It’s a village feels like home. With a playful mix of greek and global influences, it’s more than just an establishment - it’s an urban village buzzing with ideas and connection.
Gnou is a beloved vegan hangout for foodies and coffee lovers. This cozy spot offers brunch classics with creative twists, from fluffy pancakes and savory sandwiches to rich, aromatic coffee. A vegan wine list and excellent desserts stand out, especially the cheesecake and Panorama triangles from Thessaloniki. With a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere and urban charm, Gnou is perfect for meeting friends or enjoying a solo treat any time of day.
03 04
DIONYSOS
12 Ithakis St., Kypseli
T.: +30 210 82 11 369
Dionysos is a true Kypselian legend. Known for its timeless, handcrafted gyros, especially the standout chicken version, this traditional spot also serves delicious home-cooked meals. The oven-roasted chicken with potatoes is pure comfort, the greens fresh, the tsipouro of the house smooth, and the Traditional greek salad just right. Great portions, honest prices, and friendly service from genuinely kind locals. With kids playing nearby and warm neighbourhood vibes, Dionysos feels like old Athens at its best: authentic, relaxed, and full of flavour.
THE GARDEN
9 Ithakis St., Kypseli
T.: +30 210 82 26 479
Ig: the_garden_kypseli
In Athens, traditional greengrocers have become rare as supermarkets take over. The Garden was created to preserve this greek tradition. Every product is carefully selected, with quality as a priority. Here you’ll find fresh fruits and vegetables, handmade pasta, cheeses, sauces, dips, spices, legumes, cold cuts, seafood, and Greek wines, including natural labels. The team also offers guidance on ingredients, recipes, and cooking methods.
EAT LIKE A LOCAL, FEEL AT HOME
KYVELI
15 Eptanisou St. (Agios Georgios Square), Kypseli
T.: +30 210 82 19 406 | www.kybeli.gr
Fb: @kivelirest | Ig: @kyveli_kypseli
Order on Wolt, efood, Box
•900m / VICTORIA METRO LINE 1
Tucked into Agios Georgios Square in Kypseli, Kyveli is where Athens eats when it wants comfort with character. Loved by locals since 2016 and still flying under the tourist radar, this relaxed spot blends classic Greek flavours with thoughtful twists.
Settle at the charming square tables and let Chef Giorgos Kontas do the talking: handcut fries, spicy sausages, seasonal spreads, generous dips that demand warm bread, juicy grilled meats, from tender chicken fillet to perfectly cooked beef and pork, fresh salads like the Popeye & Sweetie with rocket, spinach, chicken, and a carob syrup vinaigrette, or the signature Kyveli salad with grilled manouri and a honey-orange dressing.
Save space for dessert because the creamy Catalana and dense chocolate terrine are not optional, they’re a local rule. Seasonal specials may elevate the experience during each season, but the feeling stays the same yearround: warm, unpretentious, and carefully cared for. Dine in, take out, linger… Kyveli treats guests like regulars.
GO FOR THE VIBES, STAY FOR THE FLAVOURS, SNEAKY-MODERN TWISTS, DANGEROUSLY GOOD DESSERTS, AND THAT RARE FEELING WHERE STRANGERS END UP EATING LIKE OLD FRIENDS…
45 Agion Asomaton Street. You can reach it by walking, bus or simply by metro line 1, Thissio station
NOT ROAMING ASOMATON… OR
MAYBE I AM!
IN THE HISTORIC HEART OF ATHENS, THE HOUSE OF THE CARYATIDS RISES QUIETLY AMONG WORKSHOPS, CAFÉS, AND OLD APARTMENT BLOCKS. Built in the late 19th century, this neoclassical residence is famous for the two sculpted Caryatids supporting its balcony, designed by sculptor Ioannis Karakatsanis, who once lived here with his family. Restored in 2001 and protect-
ed as a listed monument, the house now hosts the Hellenic Olympians Association. It stands as a meeting point of art, everyday life, and memory, where the past blends naturally into the rhythm of the neighbourhood.
The streets around the house form a living collage of Athens: neoclassical facades, small galleries, traditional workshops, and modern hangouts sharing the same pavements. Steps away, Thissio opens toward the Acropolis.
THE QUALITY
VOLCANO PREMIUM HERBSTONES
Volcano Premium Herbstones is an attitude, an experience, a statement. A store offering premium hemp flowers, CBD and CBG oils, extracts, wellness products, vapes, and accessories worthy of an alchemist’s lab. Here, quality is the number one rule and every detail matters. Alongside classic selections, the store also features advanced hemp flower varieties, known for delivering a more intense, full-bodied experience thanks to their natural cannabinoid and terpene profiles. Add to that the raw, iconic Mike Tyson x Futurola rolling trays and grinders, and you get design with zero compromise.
The new store on Ermou raises the bar with clean lines, bold aesthetics, and a striking wall map of Europe marking every Volcano location, a green reminder that this brand has roots. The team knows its craft and explains it without attitude. Knowledgeable, relaxed, and genuinely present. Volcano has built its reputation not just on products, but on people. A brand that grows across Europe without losing its human touch.
1 Athinaidos St., Monastiraki
T.: +30 693 69 81 331
•350m / MONASTIRAKI METRO LINES 1,2
101 Ermou St., Monastiraki
T.: +30 216 00 23 980
•220m / MONASTIRAKI METRO LINES 1,2
@volcano_shop_athens | www.cbd-volcano.com
Athinaidos St.
Ermou St.
THE HEPTATHRON ON PHILOPAPPOU HILL
Strefi Hill
Located between Exarchia and Neapoli in Athens, was once a quarry during the 19th and early 20th centuries, shaping its current form. Quarrying ended in the 1920s, followed by afforestation. Publicly owned from 1914 and later by the Municipality of Athens in 1938, it is now a beloved neighbourhood refuge. Residents of Exarchia actively work to protect the hill from environmentally and socially harmful development, preserving it as a vital green space and community landmark.
ON PHILOPAPPOU HILL STANDS THE HEPTATHRON (“SEVEN-THRONED SEAT”), A ROCK CARVED WITH SEVEN SEATS, BELIEVED TO HAVE SERVED AS A COURT OR COUNCIL CHAMBER IN ANTIQUITY.
One tradition links it to the execution of a metragyrtes, a wandering priest of Rhea, the Mother of the Gods, who taught women ancient pre-Dodekatheon rites. Discredited by the priests of Hera, he was condemned and thrown into a chasm. Soon after, a devastating plague struck Athens. Seeking redemption, the Athenians consulted the Oracle of Delphi and, by its command, filled in the chasm and built the Seven-Throned Council. With seven judges sharing responsibility, such executions ceased, effectively abolishing this brutal form of capital punishment.
You can reach Philopappou Hill by getting off at the Acropolis station on Metro Line 2 and then walking along the beautiful route via Dionysiou Areopagitou Street
Lycabettus Hill
For the best view in Athens, head to Lycabettus Hill, the highest point in the city center at 277 meters. Take metro line 3 to Evangelismos station, then walk to the Kolonaki district. From there, hop on the cable car for 10 euros round trip. Enjoy the breathtaking cityscape! On clear days, you might even see Aegina Island. Enjoy the heights!
EAT DRINK REPEAT
AU REVOIR
136 Patission St., Kypseli
T.: +30 210 82 30 474
Fb: AuRevoirBar
Ig: aurevoir.bar
•850m / VICTORIA METRO LINE 1
Since 1957, when architect Aristomenis Proveleggios designed this warm, intimate space, Au Revoir has been a meeting point for friends, lovers, artists, and night owls. Past and present coexist here, wrapped in a timeless atmosphere. Wooden tables, fabric sofas, the iconic second floor, and the view over Patission St. create a sense of beautiful continuity. Today, the team carries on the legacy with honest hospitality and impeccable pours. Au Revoir feels like home and an important part of Athenian history!
FRATTI BISTRO
1 Fratti Str., Koukaki
Τ.:+30 210 92 14 146
Fb: Fratti bistro
IG: fratti.bistro
•450m / ACROPOLI METRO LINE 2
We found your go-to haven! Just a few steps from the Herodion and minutes from the Acropolis Museum, Fratti Bistro works as an allday pause in the city’s heartbeat. Open daily at 8:00am during winter and from 7:00am in summer season, it serves coffee, lunches and evening bites and the menu covers breakfast, brunch, finger food, Greek traditional dishes, selected fish options, traditional sweets & ice cream. Beers, spirits, and a thoughtfully curated wine list keep things flowing throughout the day. A calm refuge for refueling downtown.
DIMITRIS PIKIONIS’S ARTISTIC
LEGACY IN THE HEART OF THE CITY
BORN IN 1887, PIKIONIS TRAINED AS A CIVIL ENGINEER AT ATHENS POLYTECHNIC SCHOOL AND LATER STUDIED PAINTING IN MUNICH AND PARIS. His only architectural apprenticeship was a brief stint in Jules-Léon Chifflot’s office, making him largely self-taught. Returning to Athens in 1912, he began his architectural career and taught at Athens Polytechnic School until 1958. His most celebrated project is the landscape surrounding the Acropolis of Athens, including the Filopappou Hill. Invited by Konstantinos Karamanlis in 1951 to improve routes around the archaeological site, Pikionis approached the project as a work of art requiring meticulous attention to detail.
BITS OF AN URBA
He personally positioned every stone over an 80,000m² area, using found and salvaged materials, including ancient fragments and remnants of demolished neo-classical Athenian mansions This layering of materials added to the project’s complexity and historical richness.
You can take this wonderful walk along Pikionis’ masterpiece paving by getting off at Monastiraki Metro Station Line 1 & 3 and then walking from there toward the sacred rock of the Acropolis
N MOSAIC
TAPFIELD
4 Navarchou
Apostoli St., Psiri
Τ.: +30 210 32 21 923
Fb: Tapfield
Ig: tapfield_bar www.tapfield.gr
•400m / MONASTIRAKI METRO LINES 1, 3
Tapfield has been a favourite spot for beer lovers for over five years now (since 2020) and for good reasons. This craft beer bar pours bold ideas through 23 taps, showcasing standout brews from Greek microbreweries alongside carefully chosen international labels. The space invites you to linger, snack on smart beer bites, and actually talk beer, though takeaway is always an option. Miltos and Kostas guide every choice, while new releases keep curiosity –and our glasses– full.
EAT DRINK REPEAT
IPPOPOTAMOS BAR
Ippopotamos is an iconic bar in a charming pedestrian street, reminiscent of those of the Greek islands. The authentic urban vibe make it a favourite Athenian hangout. The tables on Delphon pedestrian street are ideal for morning coffee and snacks to afternoon cocktails. In the evening, the rich bar and the sound of rock music invite you to enjoy your drink until late at night. This classic yet modern spot has been keeping Athenians company for over three decades.
38 Delphon St., Kolonaki
Τ.: +30 210 36 34 583
Fb: Ippopotamos bar
Ig: ippopotamos
•600m / PANEPISTIMO METRO LINE 2
THE LOTTERY TICKET SELLERS
And other kind of street vendors
Lottery ticket sellers are a familiar sight on Greek streets, usually standing near kiosks or busy sidewalks with pads of tickets in hand. Traditionally, this job was offered to people with disabilities as a way to earn a living with independence. Buying a ticket is quick and personal, right there on the pavement. For locals, sometimes it’s less about winning big and more about keeping a tradition alive.
Chestnuts on the streets
Street vendors, including lottery sellers, can be found along most main roads and pedestrian streets in the city center such as Patision, Heiden, Ermou and Areopagitou
In winter, some city streets smell like smoke and roasted chestnuts. Women and men roasting chestnuts on the sidewalks are a seasonal constant, working over metal carts with charcoal fires. Chestnuts were once a cheap, filling food during hard times, and the tradition stuck. You buy them by weight, wrapped in a paper cone, and eat them while walking. It’s a simple, fast, and tasty tradition!
The Laterna (Barrel Organ)
The laterna is a hand-cranked barrel organ that once provided street music across Greece. The player turns a handle, and the instrument plays pre-set melodies through pipes and gears. Before radios, this was true live entertainment. Often, performers worked in pairs, with one playing and the other collecting money. Today, the laterna appears mainly at tourist spots and streets , but it still feels striking.
BIO REWILD
Recognising the benefits of cannabis, Bio Rewild embraces nature as a mindful alternative to harsh chemicals. Discover premium oils, edibles, and flowers enriched with cannabinoids and functional mushroom extracts, alongside natural skincare that nourishes and revitalises. Experience calming, healing oils that promote balance and wellbeing. All certified products are carefully sourced from Greece and across Europe, offered in a warm, elegant space guided by expertise and care.
7 Anapafseos St., Mets | Τ.:+30 211 41 38 212 Ig: biorewild | Fb: Bio Rewild www.biorewild.com
•500m / ACROPOLI METRO LINE 2
BATZINA
NIRITON
Niriton is a hidden gem for Mediterranean and mindful eating. Inside a neoclassical building on Heyden Street, you’ll find authentic Greek products from small producers, diet-friendly options for keto, diabetic and gluten-free needs, traditional pasta and legumes, indulgent treats, and curated gourmet gift boxes. Healthy, generous, and deeply rooted in real flavour.
2 Heyden & Mavromateon St., Pedion Areos
T.: +30 210 881 6825 | www.niriton.com
Fb: niriton.products | Ig: niriton
•160m / VICTORIA METRO LINE 1
At Batzina grocery store, nothing lands on the shelves by accident. Every product is hunted down, tasted, and approved in person, straight from small Greek producers. Opened in Koukaki by an Athenian with roots in Thessaly, Batzina takes its name from the humble, crustless pie of cheese, milk, eggs, and zucchini. Here you’ll find baked village pies, Greek wines, craft beers, cheeses from every corner, olive oils, olives, honey, teas, herbs, and honest olive oil tastings.
3 Parthenonos St., Koukaki
T.: +30 211 75 066 54
Fb: Batzina_pantopwleio
Ig: batzina_pantopwleio
•290m / SYGGROU FIX METRO LINE 2
MONASTIRAKI SQUARE: WHERE ATHENS NEVER STANDS STILL
ANAFIOTIKA & PLAKA
JUST A FEW STEPS AWAY, ANAFIOTIKA AND PLAKA TWIST INTO NARROW PATHS, PERFECT FOR WALKS AND EASYGOING AFTERNOONS. A SENSE OF ISLAND CALM INSIDE THE CITY, A PLACE WHERE YOU CAN SUDDENLY EXHALE.
TWO FAITHS, ONE SQUARE
Almost side by side, the Panagia Pantanassa church and the Tzistarakis Mosque tell a rare Athenian story: coexistence carved in stone. The Byzantine church, once part of a large monastery, survived centuries of occupation, demolition, and reinvention. Nearby, the Ottoman mosque rose in the 18th century, later becoming a prison and eventually a museum.
Different beliefs, different eras, same square. Two buildings, two worlds, sharing the same sunlight and rain, reminding us that in Athens, and in Greece in general, history was never one voice, but many voices at once.
THE PARTHENON ABOVE
HIGH ABOVE THE NOISE, THE PARTHENON WATCHES SILENTLY. UNMOVED BY CENTURIES, CROWDS, OR TRENDS, IT REMAINS A CONSTANT REMINDER THAT ATHENS ALWAYS CARRIES ITS PAST ON ITS SHOULDERS.
THE MOST CENTRAL SQUARE OF ATHENS, ON THE EDGES OF THE ACROPOLIS, OFFERS A CONCISE NARRATIVE OF THE CITY’S HISTORY. Monastiraki Square is where Athens never stands still. People cross, stop, sell, laugh, eat, wait, perform, disappear. Layers of time overlap in plain sight: ancient stones, Ottoman traces, metro lines, street music, tourists chasing photos.
The colorful paving spreads like a carpet, guiding invisible routes through the square. Paths, histories, and everyday chaos meet here. Above it all, someone watches quietly, unimpressed but eternal: the Acropolis
This has always been the city’s pulse point. From Roman markets to Ottoman bazaars, from horse carriages to electric trains, Monastiraki remains a meeting point. It’s not a monument by itself, but it is surrounded by many.
BENEATH THE SQUARE, THE ELECTRIC RAILWAY KEEPS THE CITY MOVING. BUILT OVER AN ANCIENT RIVERBED, THE STATION CONNECTS ERAS AND NEIGHBOURHOODS. IN THIS SQUARE, AFTER ALL, THERE IS SPACE FOR EVERYTHING, EVEN MODERN URGENCY AND CHAOS.
Step out of Monastiraki Metro Station (lines 1 & 3) and explore the vibrant square. Can you spot the details/bits that make it special?
FARMER’S MARKET (aka Laiki) on Kallidromiou street
“A FAVOURITE SPOT IS KALLIDROMIOU STREET, FROM MORNING TO NIGHT! IT HAS IT ALL: COFFEE AT PARASKINIO, TSIPOURO AFTER THE FARMER’S MARKET AT MOURIA OR MOKA, AND DRINKS LATER ON AT THE BARS” SAYS PEGGY.
Typically held once a week on a specific street in each neighbourhood, farmers’ markets start in the morning and wind down by early afternoon, turning ordinary streets into colorful meeting spots. Local producers sell directly to shoppers, creating a rhythm that feels both practical and human. Stalls overflow with seasonal fruits and vegetables,
fragrant herbs, flowers, fresh fish, eggs, honey, dried fruits, clothing, kitchen tools, and the occasional unexpected treasure. Once seen as the domain of older generations, these markets are now drawing younger crowds back for weekly grocery shopping, tempted by better prices, fresher produce, and the pleasure of choice. Every market
has its own personality: some chaotic, some neighbourly. As you walk, vendors shout invitations, bargaining floats through the air, and conversations overlap. This Greek tradition after all, is mainly a small social ritual, and one of the ways to feel the city’s pulse.
Kallidromiou Street Market is every Saturday. On www.laikesagores.gr find the one close to you!
PIROLIKI
117 Megalou
Aleksandrou St., Kerameikos
Τ.: +30 21 0342 0293
Ιg: piroliki_restaurant
Fb: @Puroliki
•450m / KERAMEIKOS
METRO LINE 3
Piroliki celebrates Greek and Mediterranean cuisine, reimagined in a creative way. With care and simplicity, it never compromises on quality or imagination. The concept balances a restaurant experience with the soul of a traditional taverna. The menu is rooted in raw ingredients and collaborations with small Greek producers. Signature must-tries include the mutton burger and skioufichta pasta with apaki and Florina peppers. Guests enjoy bottled and draft wine, Greek-only spirits, plus an Athenian courtyard, year-round.
EAT DRINK REPEAT
NOSTIMIES TIS MAIRIS
Either for lunch or dinner, Nostimies tis Mairis offers authentic and traditional food at its finest! Here is your chance to discover everything you have heard about the Mediterranean and Greek cuisine, freshly cooked with the purest ingredients. Take a glance at their display window before choosing your meal! There are excellent choices for vegans too. Located at Agios Georgios Square, you can also sit at the outdoor tables and enjoy your meal with a beautiful view of the square and the everyday life of the charming Kypseli neighbourhood.
2-4 Idras St., Kypseli
T: +30 210 82 13 136
Fb: OiNostimies TesMaires
Ig: oi_nostimies_tis_mairis
•900m / VICTORIA METRO LINE 1
THE (HIDDEN) HOLY SIDE OF THE CITY
Agioi Pantes, 39 Tsocha St., Ambelokipi
Tucked away in Ambelokipi’s maze of apartments, Agioi Pantes is a hidden Byzantine treasure from the 11th century. Once the heart of a monastery, it stands on the ruins of an ancient temple dedicated to Aphrodite, whose statue was crafted by Phidias’ famous student, Alcamenes. Back in the day, the area was known as “gardens,” home to Aphrodite’s sacred spring. Discover this little-known gem and step back in time!
Agioi Apostoloi, 4 Agion Apostolon St., Kypseli
Konstantinos Kanaris (1794–1877), the legendary fireship commander of the Greek War of Independence (1821), chose in the postwar period (1853) to live with his wife in a simple and modest house in Kypseli. Within the property stood a small chapel, built by Kanaris himself, which represented a post-revolutionary expression of the deep religious faith of the heroic naval fighter.
THON MANSION & CHURCH OF AGIOS NIKOLAOS THON
The Thon Mansion was a country residence built in the 1880s, designed by Ernst Ziller. Within its grounds stood the small church of Agios Nikolaos, a modest two-storey house, and various auxiliary buildings. The mansion’s garden featured a fountain, lampposts, and numerous works by Greek sculptors.
The Church of Agios Nikolaos was inaugurated in 1895 and is the only surviving remnant of the mansion complex. Since the mid20th century, the church has stood alone, now surrounded by imposing large-scale buildings, in an environment entirely alien to its original setting – serving as a reminder of the beauty and the more human scale that this city once possessed.
To reach the Church of Agios Nikolaos Thon take Metro Line 3 to Ambelokipi and walk about 350 meters to 3 Kifisias Avenue
AGIOS
33 Didotou St., Kolonaki
Τ.: +30 21036 47 968
Fb: @agiosbardidotou
Ig: agios_bar
•500m / PANEPISTIMIO
METRO LINE 2
Set within a beautifully preserved neoclassical building, with wall paintings and featuring three distinct spaces, Agios, which means Saint in Greek, is the ultimate haven for those who come alive after dark in the city. This lively hotspot infuses our nights with upbeat vibes and authentic old folk Greek music, creating an inviting and welcoming atmosphere. Drawing a diverse crowd, it nurtures a vibrant nocturnal community. brought together by their love for music. For a taste of Greek nightlife, Agios is the place to go.
EAT DRINK REPEAT
DISCOMPALA
4 Delfon St., Kolonaki
T.: +30 2103637752.
Ig & Fb: discompala
•600m / PANEPISTIMIO
METRO LINE 2
Discompala, the iconic disco bar in the heart of Athens, opens its doors, turns on the lights, and launches a musical journey through time. With hits from the golden ’70s, ’80s, and ’90s, it’s made for those ready for nonstop dancing. A modern disco that knows how to get you moving, featuring a beautiful space filled with thousands of lights and reflections, almost like swimming among the stars. A perfect choice for colorful, sparkling, high-energy nights with friends.
THE W HOLE TRUTH
BITS OF AN URBA N MOSAIC
apartment
BULLET HOLES AND MEMORY: DEKEMVRIANA
The term Dekemvriana (from the Greek, meaning “the events that took place in December”), also referred to as the Battle of Athens, denotes a series of armed clashes that took place in Athens from December 1944 to January 1945, between the armed forces of the National Liberation Front and the Communist Party of Greece on the one hand, and British and Greek government forces on the other. Was a significant event of the Second World War that nevertheless remains largely unknown outside Greece. It was also the only instance during the war in which Allied forces engaged in armed conflict with one another. The Dekemvriana constituted the first military intervention by an Allied army in a liberated country. The marks left on the body of Athens by this large-scale military conflict –unique in the history of the modern Greek state in that it was fought entirely in the streets, buildings, squares, and neighbourhoods of the city–remain visible 80 years later. Thus, in many buildings throughout Athens, bullet holes can still be seen on the walls. Exarchia is one of the neighbourhoods where many of the clashes of those days took place.
These are two more locations within the city where you can see bullet holes from the Battle of Dekemvriana:
01. 47 Didotou St., Exarchia
02. 165-169 Alexandras Avenue, Ambelokipi
This
building, on which the marks left by bullets are still clearly visible, is located on 92 Ippokratous Street
STEPA
61 Asklipiou St., Exarchia
T.: +30 210 36 25 552
Ig: stepa_athens
•650m / PANEPISTIMIO METRO LINE 2
Stepa is an all-day bar-restaurant in the heart of Exarchia and is introducing its seasonal brand-new cocktail and food menu. The fresh ingredients and homemade preparations result in balanced, character-driven drinks –from well-loved classics with a twist to contemporary creations. On the food side, the new menu follows a cozy, shareable philosophy. Alongside the regular options, Stepa offers daily dishes based on seasonal ingredients, shaped by a conscious waste-free policy. Come taste the magic and experience Stepa as it is today: simple, thoughtful, and full of character.
AEROSTATO
4 Ptolemeon St., Pagrati
Τ.: +30 210 72 41 116
Ig: aerostatocafe
Fb: @CafeAerostato
•650m / EVANGELISMOS METRO LINE 3
Aerostato Café, which means “hot air balloon” is nestled in the verdant Proskopon Square, one of the most charming and renowned squares in the Pagrati neighbourhood. This jazz cafe-bar transports you to the ambiance of a retro French bistro. Here, you can savour your coffee or drink while jazz, swing, and blues music envelops the space. Despite being just a breath away from busy Vasileos Konstantinou Avenue, it retains a peaceful atmosphere and local charm.
VARVAKEIOS MARKET:
where products, people and history meet
THE BEST WAY TO IMMERSE YOURSELF IN THE TRADITIONAL COLOURS AND FLAVOURS OF ATHENS IS TO GET UP EARLY AND HEAD FOR VARVAKEIOS MARKET.
Athens Central Market, or Varvakeios as it is commonly called, is the city’s largest food market. Located in a large building in the heart of Athens, the market is a mixture of traditional shops and stalls with the wonderful aromas of fresh herbs and spices. When you
need to catch your breath, enjoy a cup of Greek coffee and eat something tasty, as there are several tavernas and ouzeries in the market.
History hint: Before the market was built in 1886, traders sold their goods from small shacks built around the Roman Agora. A wealthy Athenian businessman, loannis
Varvakeios paid for the construction of the huge market place which is situated in the block between Evripidou, Sophocleous, and Aiolou streets with the main entrance in Athinas Street. The market is not only impressive in size, but it was
also built with a basement for storage and a huge glass roof. Varvakeios Market was named after its founder and has run continually since it opened.
You can reach Varvakeios Market (46 Athinas St.) by getting off at the Monastiraki station on Metro Line 1 & 3
ACHILLEAS-VERGINA & ROZALIA
62 & 59 Valtetsiou St., Exarchia
Ig: axilleas_vergina
Fb: achileas 1978
Ig: tavernarozalia
Fb: Ροζαλία-Rozalia
•700m / ΟΜΟΝΙA METRO LINES 1, 2
With these two fantastic culinary options on Valtetsiou pedestrian street, you’ll be spoiled for choice, unsure which delicious spot to try first! Achilleas-Vergina, a culinary gem since 1978, serves traditional Greek dishes for takeout or at tables on charming Valtetsiou Street. With 25 daily recipes, from stews to salads, it promises authentic homemade flavours and famous souvlaki. Rozalia, a historic tavern on Valtetsiou Street, offers traditional Greek cuisine in a beautiful garden. With homemade dishes, vegetarian options, quality meat and fish, friendly service, and a warm atmosphere, it’s a true Athenian landmark.
EAT DRINK REPEAT
KLIMATARIA
The name of this historic tavern reveals its Greek identity. Klimataria is a kind grape vine on a hanging trelis, a plant fully routed in Greek history through the centuries. Klimataria is an authentic Greek tavern where you can enjoy the vibe along with the delicious Greek traditional cuisine (try the lamb slow-cooked in a wood oven). Here you can chance to taste homemade bread and recipes made with extra virgin olive oil. After 9 p.m., the rebetiko (Greek urban folk music) live music program in the backyard will complete your experience of old Athens.
2 Theatrou Sq.,
T.: +30 210 32 16 629
Ig: Klimataria
www.klimataria.gr
•400m / PANEPISTIMIO METRO LINE 2
GUARDIANS OF THOUGHT
ATHENA WAS BORN FROM THE HEAD OF ZEUS WHILE PLATO BELIEVED THAT TRUE KNOWLEDGE DOES NOT COME FROM THE SENSES, BUT FROM THE MIND REMEMBERING THE IDEAS. Both represent the same “obsession”: thought must rule.
It is no coincidence, then, that in front of the Academy of Athens stands Plato, while above him presides Athena. They stand as symbols of the same principle: the belief that the world can be
organized not by force, but by reason.
The Academy of Athens forms the centerpiece of the Neoclassical Trilogy of Athens, alongside the University of Athens and the National Library, all located on Panepistimiou Street. Together, these buildings symbolize the intellectual rebirth of modern Greece.
The Academy stands as one of the most celebrated neoclassical buildings in Greece and perhaps, the world. According to historians and architects, it is considered the most important work of architect Theophil Hansen and, by many experts, the finest neoclassical structure ever built.
Designed by the Danish architect and inspired by the classical architecture of 5th-century Athens, the building echoes the spirit of the Acropolis through harmony, proportion, and symbolism. Construction began in 1859 and was completed in 1885 and officially delivered to the Greek state in 1887.
The sculptural decoration plays a central role in the building’s identity. Most of it was created by sculptor Leonidas Drosis. At the entrance, the statues of Socrates and Plato stand as silent guardians
of philosophy. Two towering Ionic columns rise on either side, crowned by Apollo holding his lyre on the left and Athena, fully armed, on the right. The central pediment depicts the Birth of Athena, while the side reliefs present her as protector of the arts.
Take Metro Line 2 to Panepistimio station. The Academy of Athens will be right there in front of you!
URBAN PARKS
IN ATHENS’ NATIONAL GARDEN, A HISTORIC SUNDIAL QUIETLY MARKS TIME, INVITING VISITORS TO PAUSE AND FEEL THE CITY BREATHE.
Nestled between Syntagma Square and the Panathenaic Stadium, the National Garden offers a calm escape in the heart of Athens. Near the Amalias Avenue entrance stands its marble sundial, moved there in 1929, once part of the royal gardens. Still reading the sun, always linking past and present. Walk shaded paths, rest, picnic, or read, while time slows beneath the trees, a quiet ritual for travelers seeking balance and reflection within the living city.
Don’t miss:
Antonis Tritsis Park
Located in western Athens, Antonis Tritsis Park is a vast urban green space named after the politician who envisioned it. With open meadows, peaceful lakes, and shaded groves, it offers a refreshing escape from the city and a place for relaxation, nature walks, and outdoor activities.
Pedion tou Areos
Athens’ largest park, located at the junction of Alexandras and Mavromichali streets. Known for its lush greenery and historic sculptures, it has been a favourite walking spot since the 19th century. Its shaded paths make it a welcome summer retreat and a true urban oasis.
To reach the National Garden take Metro Line 2 or 3 and walk about 70 meters on Vasilissis Amalias Avenue *
TO TRIKYKLO
34 Pytheou St., Neos Kosmos
Τ.: +30 210 92 32 384
Ig: totrikyklo
Fb: Το Τρίκυκλο Το Trikyklo www.totrikyklo.gr
•650m / AGIOS IOANNIS METRO LINE 2
Trikyklo (tricycle) is located next to the park of the Lambrakis hill, since 1997, on the pedestrian street of Pytheou St., in a renovated stone building of 1931, with its own yard. It is located very close to the Acropolis Museum and the Temple of Zeus. The menu consists of authentic Greek and Mediterranean recipes, prepared with love and creativity. All spirits served are carefully selected! (Craft beers - Small wineries - Local distillates).
EAT DRINK REPEAT
KAFENIO O AGIOS
O Agios (meaning “Saint”), a traditional kafenio that has kept the same name throughout the years, is a distinctive venue that feels like the living room of an old house. It is one of those carefully hidden places you have to seek out and feel genuinely excited when you discover. At its heart lies an authentic and flavourful Greek cuisine, with daily specials. But Agios offers more than just food: jazz and rebetiko music complete the experience, with live music nights appearing as pleasant surprises on selected days. Open from 15:00, by reservation.
7 Agiou Thoma St., Goudi T.: +30 215 56 00 320
M.: +30 694 75 80 004
Ig: agioskafeneio
•600m / AMBELOKIPI METRO LINE 3
HOP ON IT!
The historic electric railway
THE HISTORY OF PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION IN ATHENS GOES HAND IN HAND WITH THE CITY’S GROWTH and its ever-increasing need to move people around. As Athens slowly transformed into a modern capital in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, new ways of getting from point A to point B became essential.
The story begins in 1869, when the first railway line connecting Athens to the port of Piraeus opened its doors. Powered by steam, the train covered the 8-kilometer journey from Thissio to Piraeus in about 19 minutes! With six carriages, it carried workers, traders, and travelers alike.
IN 1904, THE LINE WENT ELECTRIC (A BIG UPGRADE!), and by 1955 it stretched all the way to Kifisia. This transformation turned the railway into a major north–south lifeline, linking neighbourhoods, shaping everyday routines, and fueling Athens’ nonstop expansion. Some sections run underground, while others glide above ground, offering glimpses of the city as it rushes by.
BITS OF AN URBA N MOSAIC
Today, this historic electric railway lives on as Metro Line 1 and chances are, you’ll hop on it at least once during your Athenian adventures!
KAFENIO: A Greek tradition
THE TRADITIONAL KAFENIO IN GREECE IS A MODEST SPACE THAT OPENS EARLY IN THE MORNING AND MAINLY SERVES GREEK COFFEE AND FRAPPÉ. From noon onwards, you can enjoy Greek spirits such as wine, tsipouro, ouzo, and beer, typically accompanied by meze. These places
usually close early in the evening. As a form of entertainment and socialization, the kafenio has been closely connected to Greek history, and those that have remained authentic are an important part of the country’s tradition and culture. Although in past decades kafenia were frequented mostly by older people, and
predominantly men, this has changed in recent years. Nowadays, existing kafenia also attract younger crowds –both men and women– looking for a simpler, more familiar, and more affordable night out. In fact, traditional kafenia have become popular hangouts in Athens over the last few years, offering a high-quality
alternative for young Athenians. At the same time, many young people are opening new establishments that they call kafenia, maintaining the style of the old ones but offering a wider range of food and drinks, staying open late into the night, and combining modern nightlife with the historical charm of the traditional kafenio.
The kafenio shown in the photograph is called “To Filikon” and is located at 10 Petrou Kalliga Street, in the Gyzi area
EPIGRAPHIC MUSEUM
INSCRIPTIONS OF ANCIENT GREECE
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Discover the world’s largest collection of ancient inscriptions. Primary sources that reveal how people lived, governed, worshipped and communicated in antiquity.
OVER 14,000 STONE INSCRIPTIONS SPANNING FROM THE 8TH CENTURY BC TO BYZANTINE AND LATER PERIODS
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INSCRIPTIONS IN ANCIENT GREEK, AS WELL AS LATIN, PHOENICIAN, HEBREW AND OTTOMAN
A unique glimpse into public life, private stories, laws and beliefs carved into stone
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Fb: Epigraphic Museum www.epigraphicmuseum.gr
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A FINE DINING EXPERIENCE
FRAMED BY ATHENS’ ICONIC SIGHTS
Welcome to Kuzina, a warm and inviting space. Outdoor tables offer a unique perspective of the Temple of Hephaestus and glimpses of the Acropolis. Chef Aris Tsanaklidis transforms Greek culinary traditions into contemporary masterpieces, combining bold flavours with meticulous presentation. Every dish pairs with the scenery, making each meal a tasty experience. Acclaimed for both flavour and flair, Kuzina offers an elevated dining experience in the heart of Athens, framed by landmark views.
9 Adrianou St., Thissio | T.: +30 210 3240133 | Ig: kuzina.gr | www.kuzina.gr