2023 ALASKA VISITORS' GUIDE

VISITORS’ GUIDE • 2023

READY TO EXPLORE? An insider’s guide to Alaska’s biggest city PG.34

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SIGHTSEEING BY WATER AND AIR

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2023 OUTLOOK FOR DENALI NATIONAL PARK

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SEE ARTS AND CULTURE IN ANCHORAGE

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CANNABIS: A CONSUMER’S GUIDE

Be inspired by the light of the Aurora Borealis. Renew your energy under the Midnight Sun. Experience the warmth of Fairbanks—Alaska’s Golden Heart—and the basecamp to Denali, Interior and Arctic Alaska.

Make the Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitors Center your first stop to planning your Alaskan adventure.

Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitors Center 101 Dunkel Street • Downtown Fairbanks 8am – 6pm Summer • 8am – 5pm Winter 2 ALASKA — V I S I T O R S ’ G U I D E • 2 0 2 3

www.explorefairbanks.com (907) 456-5774

ANCHORAGE

VISITORS’ GUIDE • 2023

6 / GLACIERS Get close to some ice 10 / FLIGHTSEEING Alaska by air 12 / BOAT TRIPS Alaska by water 14 / FISHING Where fishing dreams come true 17 / WRANGELL-ST. ELIAS Explore Kennecott Mines and more

PUBLISHER VISITORS’ GUIDE EDITOR PRODUCTION COORDINATOR

Eric Groves

SALES

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MAT-SU • EAGLE RIVER

40 / Exploring Anchorage’s terrific trail system 42 / A guide to Alaska breweries 46 / Museums, galleries and cultural centers

22 / HIKING Tips, etiquette and safety

VALDEZ 50 / Endless options await

24 / TRAILS Great hikes near Anchorage 27 / MARIJUANA A guide to legal cannabis in Alaska

Nina Wladkowski

AD DIRECTOR

56 / Land of spectacular extremes

34 / Downtown Anchorage nightlife, shopping and more

20 / WILDLIFE See animals up close — safely

Victoria Barber

Lisa McGuire

AD DESIGN

18 / DENALI NATIONAL PARK Here’s what will be open for visitors in 2023

Andy Pennington

AD OPERATIONS

31 / Find the best seafood in the city

36 / Get a taste of Anchorage’s coffee culture

CONTENTS

Michael Oldroyd Ryan Estrada, Adam Garrigus, Victoria Hansen, Joleesa Stepetin, Erika Watsjold

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JUNEAU

EDITOR

David Hulen Vicky Ho

PHOTO EDITOR

Anne Raup

GRAPHIC DESIGN

Kevin Powell

COVER PHOTO

Newborn moose calves

by Marc Lester

58 / There’s magic in the Valley

KODIAK • SOUTHEAST 48 / Life on the water’s edge

GIRDWOOD • WHITTIER • SEWARD 61 / Tips for an epic road trip down the famed Seward Highway

KENAI PENINSULA 64 / Explore Hope, Seward, Soldotna, Kenai and Homer

52 / Visiting is a capital idea

The newsroom of the Anchorage Daily News is responsible for the content of the Alaska Visitors’ Guide.

MANAGING EDITOR

FAIRBANKS

CONTRIBUTORS

Laurel Andrews, Mollie Barnes, Bailey Berg, Mike Campbell, Daron Dean, Bob Hallinen, Alli Harvey, Erik Hill, Loren Holmes, Zachariah Hughes, David James, Marc Lester, Shelby Lum, Ken Marsh, Richard Murphy, Josh Niva, Katie Pesznecker, Bill Roth, Mara Severin

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WELCOME TO ALASKA WE’RE HERE TO HELP YOU CHASE EPIC EXPERIENCES — W I T H SO M E CRE AT URE CO M FORT S A LO N G T HE WAY DEAR READER, Alaska is a place customarily discussed in superlatives: We talk about the biggest mountains, bears and salmon, or mention how there are the most glaciers and miles of wilderness. We ruminate about the longest hours of daylight in summer and where to see the most vibrant northern lights in winter.

Those are the aspects of Alaska that attract a healthy share of visitors each year — and rightfully so. Many people come for bucket-list, print-and-frame-the-photo, once-in-a-lifetime opportunities, and that’s exactly what they get.

But when you live in Alaska, you grow to love the quiet pleasures, too, even if they are less obvious to spot.

We locals appreciate a soaring mountain peak and a cracking glacier as much as

— in many cases, more than — any avid traveler. But we also know there’s a great local beer to enjoy at the end of that big hike, and some key gear will make getting there comfier. An epic day on the water deserves to be kicked off with a serious cup of coffee, and a long summer evening is even better with a really good meal (and preferably, an even better view).

Books, fi lms, TV shows and songs are written about the peaks of human experience Alaska will bring out. The joy of being a local is that you can have the best of that with some creature comforts as well. And finding your way to both is what we hope to share with you through this guide.

Downtown Anchorage, as seen from the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail.

PHOTO BY MARC LESTER

— VICTORIA BARBER Editor

Explore

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Hike on a glacier, discover historic Kennicott, and go flightseeing.

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A guide leads hikers on a tour of Matanuska Glacier in July. The glacier is one of the most accessible glaciers in Southcentral Alaska.

PHOTO BY LOREN HOLMES

GLACIERS TRIPS FOR ALL AGES: WHERE TO GO IN SOUTHCENTRAL ALASKA

By L A U R E L A N D R E W S

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hether you live in Alaska or are visiting, glaciers are one of the state’s most awe inspiring and unique attractions.

Home to the most glaciers in the United States, Alaska offers incredible glacier experiences for people of all ages and abilities.

We narrowed the trips on this list down to those under 150 miles — or a two- to threehour drive — from Anchorage.

But before planning your next adventure, let’s talk briefly about glacier safety.

HOW TO ENJOY GLACIERS AND STAY SAFE All visitors to glacial areas will benefit from bringing warm, layered clothes, sturdy shoes or boots, and a windbreak layer. Glaciers are colder than surrounding areas and often breezy due to katabatic winds.

Walking on glaciers can be dangerous unless — and sometimes even if — you have proper training and equipment.

Crevasses and moulins (deep holes) form in the glacier, some of which are not always visible. Only experienced outdoors people with extensive knowledge should trek the surface of a glacier by themselves; otherwise, hire a guide to lead you safely.

Glacier safety while kayaking and boating is crucial. Tidewater glaciers can calve at any moment, causing powerful waves that can overwhelm kayaks and nearby shoreline.

“Sudden waves from calving ice … can hit the shore with surprising power,” the National 6

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Park Service writes on the Kenai Fjords National Park website.

Stay at least a half-mile away from the glacier when kayaking or on a boat, the park service recommends. Don’t try to paddle between two large icebergs, and remain as far away from an iceberg as twice its width or height. The same formula applies when walking around the glacier’s terminus, or toe.

Maintain awareness of your surroundings.

ONE LAST NOTE: Some of Alaska’s glaciers may be hard to access due to certain seasonal conditions. Make sure to contact local visitors centers for current information.

Got it? Phew. Now for the fun stuff.

This list explores some of the most popular glaciers, but for brevity’s sake does not include many of the tour operators offering hikes, boat trips, scenic flights, kayaking and more.

Information about tours can be found with a simple online search.

PORTAGE VALLEY: ACCESSIBLE FOR ALL AGES About an hour’s drive from Anchorage on the Seward Highway is Portage Valley and the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center. Two glaciers are easily accessible in the valley.

Byron Glacier is considered highly accessible for all ages. The 1.4-mile trail is a flat, easy walk. The first half is well maintained with a wide path. The second half is rocky, and to get closer to the glacier, visitors must cross boulders and small streams.

Then there’s Portage Glacier. The glacier has receded out of view from the visitor center, but in the summer there’s a daily cruise and a pull-off where you can see the glacier from the road. A little farther down the road, Portage

Pass trail is a 4-mile round-trip hike with glacier views.

During the winter, frozen Portage Lake is a popular spot for skiers and bikers traveling to the toe of the glacier. There are no park rangers around in case of emergency, though, so traverse the ice at your own risk.

Check ahead on the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center website for information regarding current conditions, operational hours and fees.

WHITTIER AND PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND: TIDEWATER GLACIER TOURS Continue down Portage Glacier Road another few miles — including a trip through the 2.5-mile-long Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel — and you wind up in the town of Whittier.

Whittier is the launching point for many cruises in Prince William Sound, which boasts more tidewater glaciers than any other region in North America. (Valdez is another launching spot, about a five-hour drive from Anchorage.)

Columbia, Meares and Blackstone glaciers are just three of the oft-visited glaciers in the area. There are many different types of tours, kayaking opportunities and public-use cabins in Prince William Sound.

SPENCER GLACIER: TAKE A TRAIN RIDE TO A GLACIER About 60 miles southeast of Anchorage, Spencer Glacier is only accessible via the Alaska Railroad’s Glacier Discovery Train, which runs daily from May 27 through Sept.

17 in 2023.

Visitors enjoy a scenic ride from

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Anchorage, getting off the train at Spencer Whistle Stop in Chugach National Forest at 1:45 p.m. Hike about 1.3 miles one way to the glacier viewing platform, or another 1.7 miles to the edge of the glacier (but be mindful of getting back to the train in time for the 4:30 p.m. pickup). Hike on your own or enjoy a hike guided by a U.S. Forest Service ranger.

The route then continues past Spencer Glacier to Grandview, revealing views of Bartlett Glacier and Trail Glacier. After a 20-minute stop, the train heads back to Portage. From there, visitors take a motorcoach back to the Anchorage train depot, arriving around 6:45 p.m.

Campsites and a cabin are open mid-June and can be reserved through the railroad.

Tour operators offer guided kayaking, ice climbing or trips down the Placer River.

Visitors can also take the Alaska Railroad to the community of Seward and experience the same glacier views along the way.

EKLUTNA GLACIER AND LAKE CAMPGROUND About an hour northeast of Anchorage is Eklutna Glacier, which provides most of the drinking water for Alaska’s largest city.

Part of Chugach State Park, Eklutna Lake Campground has a large campsite, bike and kayak rentals, and a trail system that leads out to the glacier.

Glacier access is a bit of a journey — to get up close, take the Eklutna Lakeside Trail, 12.9 miles one way. The path follows the shore of the lake, then to the river and glacier.

Alternatively, the Bold Ridge Trail is about 4 miles long with a steep 3,600-foot elevation gain that rewards you with glacier views.

Wander through walls of ice with a Matanuska Glacier Park guide.

PHOTO BY MARC LESTER

MATANUSKA GLACIER, ONE OF THE WORLD’S MAJOR ICE SHEETS Matanuska Glacier is about a two-hour drive on the Glenn Highway northeast of Anchorage. It’s touted as one of the few major ice sheets in the world that visitors can drive to and explore on foot. The glacier itself is gigantic — about 26 miles long and 4 miles wide at its terminus.

The Matanuska Glacier State Recreation Area has 12 campsites, and a 20-minute walk to glacier viewing platforms, but no direct access to the glacier.

The only road-accessible route direct to the glacier face is through property owned

by Matanuska Glacier Park LLC. Tours are sold out of a gift shop and information center.

Then, it’s a short drive and hike to reach the glacier.

Glacier Park only allows access via guided tours. The cost is $150 for out-of-state visitors, $30 for children 14 and under, and $50 for Alaska residents and military members.

SOUTH FORK VALLEY TRAIL: BACKCOUNTRY HIKING The South Fork Valley Trail is an easy- to moderate-level hike to Eagle and Symphony Lakes in Eagle River, about half an hour east of Anchorage. The hike is about 12 miles round-trip. Flute Glacier can be reached by hiking to Eagle Lake, then heading another 4 miles up valley to the toe of the glacier — which isn’t a very common destination among visitors due to the amount of backcountry travel involved.

TALKEETNA: GLACIER FLIGHTSEEING IN THE ALASKA RANGE A little over two hours north of Anchorage, the town of Talkeetna is the staging point for climbers heading to Denali. It also has flightseeing options for those who want to bask in the splendor of North America’s tallest peak without climbing it.

There are hundreds of unnamed glaciers on Denali, and 40 named ones, according to the National Park Service. The longest ones — Ruth, Kahiltna and Muldrow — each span more than 30 miles.

Multiple Talkeetna air taxi operators offer trips around the mountain. Some land on glaciers.

SEWARD AND KENAI FJORDS NATIONAL PARK Exit Glacier is the only glacier in Kenai Fjords National Park accessible by road.

The Exit Glacier Nature Center is the starting point for a system of trails leading to the glacier. Those wanting more can make the strenuous 8.2-mile round-trip hike up the

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Harding Icefield Trail for spectacular views of the massive ice field.

There’s also a 12-site, tents-only campground near the nature center.

Exit Glacier Road is only open to cars during the summer, usually mid-May. In the winter, snowmachines, skiers, dog sleds and fat bikes are still allowed on the road. Check the park’s website for current conditions.

Then, there’s the rest of Kenai Fjords National Park. The National Park Service highlights Bear Glacier Lagoon and boat tours that take visitors along the park’s tidewater glaciers.

KNIK RIVER TOURS AND FLIGHTSEEING Excursions to Knik Glacier in the Matanuska-Susitna Borough have exploded in popularity during the winter, with fat-tire bikers taking a northern route that crosses a river.

Summer access comes by way of Knik Glacier Trail. There’s an 8-mile trail starting from Knik Glacier Tours that requires river crossings. Biking and boating are common.

Tours are also offered through Knik River Lodge, but call ahead to confirm.

There’s also flightseeing available to Knik and Colony Glacier.

CROW PASS TRAIL: A HIKE TO RAVEN GLACIER Raven Glacier can be seen on the historic 21-mile Crow Pass Trail, which has trailheads at Girdwood (40 miles from Anchorage on the Seward Highway) and the Eagle River Nature Center (about 26 miles east of Anchorage).

This hike is recommended from late June to early September due to snow and avalanche danger.

For a glacier view with an 8-mile round-trip, start from Girdwood’s Crow Creek trailhead. Hikers follow a series of switchbacks uphill, passing Jewel Glacier to the east of Crow Pass Cabin, and eventually arrive at Crow Pass and Raven Glacier. Hikers can continue past the glacier, or turn around.

HATCHER PASS: BACKCOUNTRY HIKING TO MINT GLACIER About 80 minutes north of Anchorage is the Hatcher Pass Management Area, a popular recreation area.

The Gold Mint Trail is a 16-mile round-trip journey that follows the Little Susitna River to the Mint Glacier Valley, where at the end, hikers can follow a fairly undeveloped trail up to Mint Glacier. There’s also good glacier viewing — and traversing — on the multiday Mint-Bomber Traverse for more advanced outdoor explorers.

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THERE’S NO VIEW MORE EPIC THAN THE ONE YOU’LL FIND ON AN ALASKA FLIGHTSEEING TOUR

By M I K E C A M P B E L L

At

663,268 square miles, Alaska is by far the biggest state in the union. But only four states have fewer road miles.

It makes sense that one of the best ways to see Alaska is by air on one of the charters that specialize in flights into the rugged and spectacular Alaska Range. You’ll enter the wilderness cathedral of mountains surrounding 20,310-foot Denali, the tallest peak in North America, and perhaps land on one of the mountain’s glaciers.

Prices for flightseeing vary widely, from about $250 to $1,000 — or more, depending on the length of the trip, the departure point and whether the tour includes a landing. That might seem steep, but on a bluebird day, few trips deliver such gawk-worthy moments as you soar past sheer granite faces and above glaciers.

And while Denali may be Alaska’s best-known flightseeing tour, the options don’t end there.

BEAR VIEWING Rust’s and Regal Air are among the Anchorage flight services that cross Cook Inlet to Chinitna Bay in Lake Clark National Park and the Brooks River in Katmai National Park in search of brown bears feeding on salmon. Trips from Anchorage generally depart in the morning and return about 10 to 11 hours later, and run about $1,000 or more per person.

Typically, Regal pilots make early-season scouting flights. Usually, the grizzlies are up and about by May 10, and the season runs into September. The company provides a preflight safety briefing in Anchorage. At Brooks, the brown bears may walk beneath the boardwalk (spanning the river). But passengers never approach closer than 50 feet.

KNIK GLACIER Knik River Lodge glacier tours start less than 60 miles from

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Journey above glaciers, gorges and peaks on a flightseeing tour for unique views of Alaska’s landscape.

PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

Anchorage, leaving from Knik River Lodge at the end of Knik River Road in the Matanuska-Susitna Borough. The lodge’s front lawn doubles as a helipad for helicopters that take groups of two or three people to the Knik Glacier, a five-minute flight away. Perhaps the most popular trip is dog sledding on the glacier after a landing. En route, you’ll see the Knik Glacier in all its glory as well as Lake George and a couple of the feeder glaciers. (Tours range from about $350-$680.)

GIRDWOOD GRANDEUR Less than an hour south of Anchorage is the ski and recreation community of Girdwood. Alpine Air, operating since 1991, will fly you above the Mount Alyeska tram to land on glaciers or to Prince William Sound in search of calving glacial ice. In peak season, helicopters depart regularly from the Girdwood Airport. You can take a 30-minute flight, but the 60-minute tour with a landing on Colony Glacier is even more fun. A walk on the glacier — and a sip from a glacial stream — will help you cool off in summer months. (About $320-$470; glacier dog sledding tours are also available.)

WRANGELL-ST. ELIAS NATIONAL PARK Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve is the nation’s largest national park, featuring 14 of the 20 tallest peaks in North America.

You can take a regularly scheduled flight from Chitina to McCarthy

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on the edge of the park to avoid driving the gravel-surfaced McCarthy Road, which is slow going (allow up to three hours) but scenic; flying in from Chitina is typically even more spectacular. A Wrangell Mountain Air flight may take you into the mountains and through the Fourth of July Pass if weather permits.

You’ll see rock glaciers and maybe some critters. On the other side of the pass is giant Root Glacier. You’ll fly right past the old copper mine structures in neighboring Kennecott before landing in McCarthy.

Flights range from 50 minutes to two hours. ($300-$475) If you’re driving, you’ll park at the McCarthy footbridge, then make your way over to the airport and fly from there.

COLUMBIA GLACIER (VALDEZ) The 400-square-mile Columbia tidewater glacier has retreated nearly a dozen miles since 1982, but there’s still plenty of ice, and the warming climate has triggered a surge of calving, during which large pieces of ice break off and splash into Prince William Sound.

A convenient way to see it is to book a flight to Valdez with Ravn Alaska. Try to get a window seat on the left side of the plane.

When you land in Valdez, you can circle back by boat on a charter for a Columbia Glacier view from the water. Other Valdez flight services offer tours of Columbia and the Valdez Glacier as well.

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Juneau Shore Tours offers an Icefield Excursion package ($359), recommended for those looking to see Alaska from a bird’s-eye view but not necessarily interested in dog sledding. TEMSCO Helicopters offers an array of trips, too.

On most of the tours, you’ll get a nice view of downtown Juneau, including the popular Mount Roberts Tramway, which leaves from the cruise port. On most trips, you’ll see the exposed deep-blue ice that’s the face of Taku Glacier, a sharp contrast to the muddy Taku River.

DENALI Those are some highlights for Alaska flightseers, but Denali trips remain at the top of many must-see lists. You can catch a flight right out of Anchorage, but that’s more expensive than driving north to Talkeetna and flying with K2 Aviation, Talkeetna Air Taxi or Sheldon Air Service. The companies

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offer a selection of tours that include views of the Ruth Glacier, the Wickersham Wall, the climbers’ base camp at Kantishna Glacier and the Denali summit (weather permitting).

Prices range from about $255-$425 or more if the tour includes a glacier landing.

Particularly memorable is a tour that includes a glacier landing. Most pilots favor Ruth Glacier, because it is so spectacular and the runway is well-marked. But the clouds move in and out quickly, so several other glaciers are available if the Ruth is socked in.

While a little more spendy, helicopter flightseeing offers an alternative. Enclosed in Plexiglas with no wings to peer over, even trips as short as 30 minutes can provide exceptional views.

Wherever you want to see, there’s probably a flightseeing business nearby. Among the locales where tours are offered: Kenai, Soldotna, Tok, McCarthy, Homer, Girdwood, King Salmon, Talkeetna, Juneau, Ketchikan, Fairbanks, Skagway and Kantishna.

JUNEAU Commercial flights into the state capital of Juneau can offer great views of Mendenhall Glacier. But several companies offer helicopter tours, typically an hour or two. And if you want a double-shot of Alaskan on a single trip, book one that includes dog sledding on a glacier.

Most helicopter tours require that three seats be booked before the flight, potentially an issue if you’re traveling alone or as a

Soar over the Tokositna and Ruth glaciers on a breathtaking flightseeing tour of Denali.

PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

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WHETHER IT’S ON A BOAT TOUR, RAFT OR KAYAK, GET ON THE WATER AND SOAK UP SOME SCENERY

The skies begin to clear following a rain shower as a kayak tour group returns to Miller’s Landing in Seward.

PHOTO BY ERIK HILL

By M I K E C A M P B E L L

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ne dependable way to escape crowds of Alaska summertime visitors is simple. Just get wet.

When you see the 49th state from the water — whether aboard a tour boat, paddling a kayak, renting a powerboat or moseying around a lake on a stand-up paddleboard — you won’t be trading elbows with anyone.

And what’s not to like? You can still see wildlife, glaciers and mountains soaring above the water. Or soak up the quiet of a July evening paddling on a Southcentral Alaska lake, watching a greenwinged teal paddle with her chicks in tow.

Options are plentiful.

BOAT TOURS Human-powered trips in rafts or kayaks are rewarding, but to see the most glaciers and marine mammals, consider a boat tour in Resurrection Bay or Prince William Sound. They’re accessible to people of all ages and abilities.

Major Marine Tours has cruises in Kenai Fjords National Park out of Seward from four to 8.5 hours on vessels ranging from large catamarans to much smaller ships ($129-$229 for adults; $64.50-$99.50 for children ages 2-11). Many of them include onboard narration by a National Park Service ranger, turning a pleasure cruise into a learning opportunity.

In Prince William Sound, Blackstone Bay or Harriman Fjord each have glaciers that descend from extensive icefields to the ocean. Marine mammals including otters, seals and whales are usually visible.

Although a full-day Prince William Sound trip is pricier than a short trip, you usually see much more.

Phillips’ 26 Glacier Cruise, which sails through Oct. 1, travels up College Fjord, taking in views of the perilously steep glaciers that cascade down from Mount Marcus Baker, the highest peak in the Chugach, before traveling through Harriman Fjord. For nervous flatlanders, the company offers what it calls a “no seasickness guarantee” (about $189 per adult, $125 per child; meal included).

Family-owned Lazy Otter Charters, now in its 26th season, offers a convenient 4.5-hour trip in the Sound, including the spectacular waterfalls of Blackstone Bay (about $200 per adult).

Kenai Fjords Tours has an array of trips in Resurrection Bay, including a dinner cruise, which delivers breathtaking scenery of towering peaks and hanging glaciers above Seward. A tour to Northwestern Fjord is popular — you’re likely to see puffins, sea lions and whales, as well as tidewater glaciers plunging from the Harding Icefield. At $239 for a full day cruising, you probably aren’t paying more than you would to buy gas for your own boat.

In spring, a four-hour tour that includes lunch is designed to offer a glimpse of gray whales migrating from the Baja in Mexico to their summer feeding grounds in the Arctic ($80 for adults, $40 for children).

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WHITEWATER RAFTING Have a hankering to paddle whitewater? Consider a trip with NOVA on the Matanuska River. Lion’s Head, a section of Class III-IV whitewater that cascades between towering cliffs and the Matanuska Glacier’s terminal moraine, is particularly scenic and thrilling ($125 per person). If you prefer a mellower float, NOVA also runs trips through the easier rapids just downstream of Lion’s Head, a location that’s particularly stunning as the leaves change color in August ($99 for adults; $49 for children under 12). There’s even an evening raft trip to take advantage of Alaska’s long summer days.

If you’re headed toward the Kenai Peninsula and looking for a bigger adrenaline rush, consider a trip down the Class IV-V Six Mile Creek.

Six Mile’s turquoise waters wind between overhanging cliff walls and hammer down intimidating rapids that drop 50 feet per mile, and clients paddle under their guide’s supervision. It is one of the most intense guided raft trips you’ll find in the country, due to the powerful rapids on the creek. Only physically fit individuals who can swim well — occasionally people get flung out of the rafts — should sign up for this trip with NOVA or the Chugach Outdoor Center. (Prices range from about $129-$199.)

SEA KAYAKING Though the Gulf of Alaska has some of the world’s worst maritime weather, there are often calm waters and spectacular sea kayaking near Anchorage.

Consider a day trip to Resurrection or Kachemak Bay or plan an overnighter to Prince William Sound to observe whales, otters, sea lions, glaciers and towering peaks.

To paddle in Resurrection Bay, you might drive to near the road’s end and rent kayaks from Miller’s Landing, which is conveniently located for an easy paddle out to Caines Head and back. Expect to see marine mammals and spectacular sea arches.

In Kachemak Bay, Mako’s Water Taxi offers a 20-minute ride from Homer across Kachemak Bay (most trips are about $100 per adult, $80 per child). From there you can paddle around Yukon, Grass and the Herring Islands. Mako’s runs trips all day, so you can head out in the morning, paddle for a few hours and come back in the evening.

Prince William Sound has one of the most underrated sea kayak

trips in the region: an out-and-back paddle to Decision Point, 9 miles each way.

Make sure to check the weather before embarking on any sea kayaking trip, and don’t head out unless the marine forecast calls for calm seas (2 feet or less). The marine forecast is easy to find: On weather.gov, simply click on the body of water you plan on visiting.

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STAND-UP PADDLEBOARD Rent a board and take a lesson to see whether you’ve got the balance, strength and aptitude for stand-up paddleboarding.

Among the Southcentral companies marketing boards are Liquid Adventures in Seward; Alaska Rivers Company in Cooper Landing, which takes clients to Kenai Lake and Portage Lake; Alaska Paddleboard Guru in Anchorage and Eagle River; and True North Adventures in Homer.

What’s the appeal?

“The experience of essentially standing on a lake, my feet inches from the surface, gave me a new perspective,” wrote Alaska outdoors columnist Alli Harvey of her inaugural paddle. “It felt playful, a feeling I don’t readily access as an adult since so much of what I do outside is structured — I’m going for an hourlong run; I’m going to ride my bike to the grocery store, etc.”

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CASTING CALL: URBAN AND REMOTE ALASKA ARE WHERE FISHING DREAMS COME TRUE

Anglers fish during the Coho Rodeo Derby at Ship Creek in Anchorage.

PHOTO BY LOREN HOLMES

By J O S H N I V A

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ensational silvers and killer kings. Trophy-worthy trout and fantastically finned grayling. Hearty halibut and rewarding reds. It’s a lineup of Alaska’s finest fishing action, and these spectacular species — and many more — are all within casting distance, driving distance and short-flight distance of Anchorage.

Yes, Alaska’s largest, busiest and most populated urban hub is also a fishing fantasy come to life … and that isn’t a fishing tale. Even the most secretive fisherman will brag about this fishery, and it couldn’t be kept secret anyway: Anchorage is a mainstay on any “America’s Best Fishing Cities” list.

“We’re very fortunate here in Southcentral, where we have so many diverse fisheries,” said Jay Baumer in 2022. Baumer — a sport fisheries manager biologist with the Alaska Department of Fish and Game who manages the Anchorage, Prince William Sound and North Gulf Coast regions — added: “You can go fishing for a wide variety of species and have different opportunities, whether it’s a remote experience or you just want the convenience of something nearby. We’ve got it all here, which is fantastic.”

“You can go fishing just about anywhere in Anchorage,” added Dan Bosch in a 2018 interview. Bosch is a passionate fisherman, now retired from a longtime role at Fish and Game, most recently as regional management coordinator for the Anchorage area. “It’s some of the best fishing around. And the accessibility — it’s so easy. Right at your doorstep.”

For Anchorage visitors, that includes lodging doorsteps. The community is covered in streams, creeks and lakes that are packed and stocked with tens of thousands of fun, fighting fish. And there are seemingly endless fishing options around Southcentral Alaska that are just a short and scenic drive or flight away.

Sport fishing is a year-round activity in Anchorage and Alaska, but the action surges in summer. From May to September, the fish counts are generally high, the midnight sun is warm and bright, and fishermen are giddy. Where should you wet a line? Around Anchorage, practically anywhere there’s water, there are fish. Many of these fishing holes also offer peace, quiet and the natural vibe of wild Alaska. As you cast and relax, it’s easy to forget you’re in Alaska’s biggest city.

are usually bustling with fishermen.

“Right downtown you can fish for king salmon and coho salmon,” said Bosch, himself a Ship Creek regular who has worked and fished the Anchorage area for decades. “If you haven’t fished there before, just watch what everyone is doing, if they’re using eggs or spinners, and where they are setting up along the creek.”

SHIP CREEK, ANCHORAGE

URBAN HOT SPOTS

One of Anchorage’s most exciting fishing holes is set in one of the city’s most popular hospitality hot spots — downtown. Ship Creek carves across the northern side of Anchorage, passing by the William Jack Hernandez Hatchery before depositing downtown into picturesque Cook Inlet. It’s a beautiful natural oasis on the edge of Anchorage’s cityscape. Its waters are home to a regular run of summer salmon — kings early in the season, silvers (coho) later — and its banks

Ship Creek might be the most visible venue, but incredible fishing opportunities abound in every corner of town and every direction of Southcentral Alaska. Anchorage lakes (Campbell, DeLong, Jewel, Mirror, Sand Lake) are loaded, and creeks (Bird, Campbell and Ship) and rivers (Eagle and Eklutna) are crammed with an array of fish: from several freshwater and landlocked salmon species to Dolly Varden/ Arctic char and awesome Arctic grayling. Chester Creek runs through

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EDITOR’S NOTE: The 2023 fishing season around Southcentral Alaska will be unlike any in recent history. In March 2023, the Alaska Department of Fish and Game announced unprecedented restrictions and closures on sport and personal-use fishing of king salmon around the state’s Cook Inlet region, from the Kenai Peninsula to the Mat-Su. The series of emergency regulations illustrates the severity of decreasing king salmon populations and the broader salmon crisis playing out across the state. While many popular king fisheries will be closed from May through July, a handful remain open for catching kings, including Anchorage’s urban fishery at Ship Creek and the Eklutna Tailrace off the Old Glenn Highway in Mat-Su. Learn more about the emergency orders, specifics on where kings can and can’t be caught, and stay up to date with other fishing regulations at the Alaska Department of Fish and Game website.

the center of town and can be great for rainbow trout (8-12 inches!), too.

OUTSIDE ANCHORAGE ACTION: ROAD TRIP REELING Anchorage is also the jumping-off point for fishing adventures all over Southcentral Alaska and beyond. A short drive or quick hike in practically any direction from urban Anchorage adds more casting spots. For nextlevel groundfish and salmon fishing, drive south for an hour (Prince William Sound out of Whittier) or two (Resurrection Bay out of Seward on the Kenai Peninsula) or five (Kachemak Bay out of Homer on the Kenai Peninsula), or drive north for 30 minutes to two hours (Matanuska-Susitna Borough).

Some of Alaska’s — and the world’s — most exciting salmon fishing goes down on the Kenai Peninsula, a few hours’ drive south of Anchorage, where the Kenai, Russian, Anchor and Kasilof rivers flow flush with fish.

This is action-packed angling for Alaska’s salmon species. It can also be combat fishing at its gnarliest. When the fish are running, anglers line the banks, practically shoulder to shoulder, while locals and guides motor boats up and down the rivers, homing in on the hot spots. For most, all the work is worth it when they land one of Alaska’s bright and hard-fighting salmon, creating photo-worthy moments that will be social media profile shots for years.

The fishing is also exciting in port towns like Whittier, Seward and Homer, which are all a beautiful drive south of Anchorage.

There, you can cast from the banks for salmon, but you’ll improve your odds and your options by jumping aboard a charter boat to chase the big, bad, barn-door halibut and cruise along salmon runs as they return to their freshwater spawning grounds.

Catching a big halibut is tough work, but it’s a different kind of fish fight. Instead of running and splashing, these flat lunkers are more likely to play like dead weight as you slowly reel them up from the dark of the ocean bottom. They sometimes freak when they surface and see daylight, but handy deckhands are ready with a net and/or a gaff to snatch the flopping fish.

The port town of Valdez is an even longer drive away, but the roads there are about as scenic (glaciers, mountains, wildlife, waterfalls) as it gets and once you’ve arrived, the fishing is equally impressive.

Point your vehicle north from Anchorage and you’ll soon have awe-inspiring Denali looming large in your windshield, guiding you toward the glacier-carved and fish-filled Matanuska-Susitna Borough. You’ll also find exciting fishing all around the Mat-Su, some less than an hour from Anchorage, some a

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little farther. When the salmon are running, the region’s rivers are slamming, especially the Deshka River, Willow Creek, Susitna River, Eklutna Tailrace and Montana Creek.

If you prefer a slower pace, there are dozens of lakes packed with grayling, trout, Arctic char and landlocked salmon; favorites include Nancy Lake, Big Lake, Rolly Lakes and Knik Lake. If you like lakes, consider packing a lunch and your gear, renting a canoe and soaking up the midnight sun and the peace of the Alaska outdoors.

OUTSIDE ANCHORAGE ACTION: FLYING FISHING If you’ve come all the way to Alaska to chase fish, you might as well dial up the fun to a once-in-a-lifetime experience by booking a fly-in fishing adventure. From Anchorage, floatplanes, skilled pilots and savvy guides will get you to the fish in high-flying fashion.

Often, you’ll take off in a floatplane from Anchorage’s Lake Hood, which buzzes with around-the-clock activity during Southcentral’s warm, bright summers. If you think the takeoff from the lake is thrilling, wait until the landing! And that’s just the start of the fun. (Of course, more conventional plane rides are available; you could even fly commercial to great fishing towns like Cordova, Ketchikan, Juneau and more.)

What do you want to catch? A fighting salmon? A plump trout? A vicious pike? All of the above? Your guides have you covered.

How long do you want to cast? Half-day, fullday and multiday trips are available.

Want to go really big? Hook up with an outfit that will get you to a remote, fly-in lodge, where you can spend your days fishing until your arm is sore from casting and your nights recovering like royalty in a massive, cabin-like lodge. This is the ultimate in Alaska fishing experiences.

FISHING FACTOIDS Overwhelmed by the options? Too excited to think clearly? Contact Fish and Game in person, on the ADF&G Sport Fish Information Center phone line (907-2672218) or online (adfg.license@alaska.gov or the Fishing section of adfg.alaska.gov) for questions about fishing, licenses, regulations or anything else Anchorage or Alaska fishing related. Fish and Game’s We Fish AK and Go Fish AK sport fishing websites are especially helpful for ambitious anglers.

The Sport Fish Information Center (333 Raspberry Road) provides up-to-date information on all the fisheries. You can even borrow fishing gear! There are also area fishing blogs and message boards, and friendly fishermen and retailers who are

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Trout, char and grayling in Chugach State Park’s mountain lakes will take a variety of flies and lures.

The selection in this fly wallet covers all the bases — and then some.

PHOTO BY KEN MARSH

happy to share tips while you shop for tackle or gear.

Lures and lines, rods and reels — the choices are endless. But there’s one piece of equipment fishermen (residents 18 or older and nonresidents age 16 or older) must carry: a sport fishing license. Nonresidents have many sport fishing license options, from one-day ($15) to 14-day ($75) to annual ($100), and many options in between. If you are on a quest for a king, you will also need a king salmon tag, which runs an additional $15 for one day and up to $100 for an annual stamp, with three-, seven- and 14-day stamps available. For residents, there are numerous license options for different fishermen (military, low income, senior citizens, blind), so do your research. For the savvy shopper, many license prices have dropped from prior seasons following a dip in sales during the pandemic.

NOTE: You might hear about Alaskans filling their freezers while dipnetting salmon.

Yes, it can be an awesome and fruitful fishing experience, but only Alaska residents are legally allowed to do it.

Alaska sport fishing licenses are available at most sporting goods shops, even many grocery and convenience stores, and online, of course. It’s also a fisherman’s responsibility to know regulations, which are easily available in print and online. Bosch said the key to figuring it out is to read the general regulations for each region (example: the Anchorage area), then look for site-specific regulations for streams (example: Ship Creek).

In other words, know where you are fishing

and what you are fishing for. Oh, and always be bear aware — clean your fish and dispose of fish waste responsibly.

If you’re plotting a chartered or guided fishing experience, whether by road, boat or plane, shop around. Most reputable charter companies have years of experience and are easy to study up on via their websites and social media. Find a perfect fishing fit by being specific about what you want to catch, how long you want to fish, and how much you want to spend.

One charter fishing bonus: It often comes with sightseeing in some of Alaska’s most incredible landscapes and wildlife, including water wonders like whales, orcas, porpoises and countless seabirds.

And don’t forget the bevy of fishing derbies that take place all summer in regions across Alaska. Catching a trophy fish in Alaska is memory making; neglecting to buy a derby ticket and then landing a potentially winning fish is heartbreaking.

Baumer recommended that visitors and residents alike spend time on the ADF&G’s sportfishing website — adfg.alaska.gov — for updates on everything from hot fishing spots to places to borrow, rent or buy gear.

“And we’re always here to help with questions, whether they’re planning their trip or there’s a specific detail they’ve got a questions about,” he added. “And we’re ready to get people here to go fishing. You can come up and fish, be careful and, like always, do it safely.”

Fish on!

BIGGEST OF THE BIG: WRANGELL-ST. ELIAS NATIONAL PARK AND KENNECOTT MINES

By B A I L E Y B E R G

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13.2 million acres, Wrangell-St. Elias is the largest national park in the United States and covers roughly the same area as the next two biggest national parks combined (Denali and Gates of the Arctic, also in Alaska).

It’s difficult not to talk about the area in superlatives, as that sheer amount of acreage holds a lot: four major mountain ranges; the second- and third-highest peaks on the continent; nine of the 16 highest peaks in the U.S.; incredibly diverse wildlife; and the nation’s largest glacial system.

For true adventure seekers and wilderness lovers, the park is a kind of El Dorado, a place rife with opportunities to play — from backpacking, fishing and camping to raft ing, hiking and climbing — and see the wilderness in all its glory.

HOW TO GET THERE Only two roads, both dirt, lead into the park: McCarthy Road and Nabesna Road. Of the two, the 60-mile-long McCarthy Road is the one far more traveled. You’ll know when the Edgerton Highway merges with McCarthy Road in Chitina because it will go

from pavement to dirt road atop what was once a railroad track. It’s slow going, with blind corners and potholes, but the scenery makes up for it: spectacular views of distant mountains, the Copper River raging below and the impressive Kuskulana River Bridge, which spans a vertigo-inducing gorge. The road ends at the Kennicott River; from there, you cross the river on a footbridge and can either shuttle or walk the half-mile to McCarthy or 4.5 miles to Kennicott.

Alternatively, Copper Valley Air offers biweekly flights from Anchorage, Gulkana and May Creek to McCarthy (907-822-4200).

Wrangell Mountain Air does three daily flights from Chitina into the park (800-4781160).

WHAT TO SEE AND DO KENNECOTT MINES: Within 35 years, the Kennecott Mines went from being an established mining camp — pumping out copper around the clock — to a ghost town. For decades, the mill sat empty and abandoned, until 1998, when the National Park Service purchased the mill, power plant and many other camp buildings from private owners and began restoring them. You can take a tour of the mill, a 14-story behemoth that was used to process ore through a multistage process. The tour is worth it for the glaciers and mountain view from the

Visitors to McCarthy and the Kennecott copper mine site can walk and haul gear across the Kennicott River using a footbridge that replaced a tram system.

PHOTO BY ERIK HILL

top floors and the opportunity to check out the massive, nearly 100-year-old machinery.

There’s also oodles of information about the history of the mines and the people who once worked there at the Kennecott Visitor Center.

MCCARTHY-KENNICOTT HISTORICAL MUSEUM: While it could be argued that both towns are museums in and of themselves, the actual museum, located in what was once a railway depot, does a good job of showing the history from the town’s inception in the late 1800s to today. You can see old photographs, artifacts, a miniature model of historic McCarthy and a diorama of the Bonanza Mine.

ROOT GLACIER TRAIL: Past all the wagon-red buildings of the mining camp on the far end of town is the start of the Root Glacier Trail.

It’s an easy 4-mile round-trip jaunt out to one of Alaska’s most accessible glaciers. Even from a distance, you can look for the blue pools and streams speckled across the top of the glacier and admire the nearby peaks. If you intend to walk on the ice, wear appropriate footwear and take appropriate safety measures.

GUIDED WILDERNESS ADVENTURES: Companies like Kennicott Wilderness Guides, McCarthy River Tours & Outfitters and St. Elias Alpine Guides offer hiking, ice climbing, packraft ing and multiday trips through the spruce forests, alpine tundra, glacier fields and canyons of the park.

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DENALI NATIONAL PARK: EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

By B A I L E Y B E R G

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ure, Denali National Park and Preserve is named for the nation’s mightiest mountain, but the 6-million-acre park encompasses so much more. Denali has options for every type of visitor. Whether you’re an avid backpacker looking to forge new trails or a relaxed traveler content to watch for animals on a tour, you’re sure to experience jaw-dropping scenery.

GETTING THERE Located roughly four hours north of Anchorage and two hours south of Fairbanks on the George Parks Highway, it’s an easy drive to the heart of the state — after all, there’s only one road entrance to the park.

If you don’t have your own wheels, here’s how to get there: BUS: One option is Alaska/Yukon Trails (907-452-3337), a passenger van company capable of transporting up to 16 passengers. They run from Anchorage to Talkeetna to Denali to Fairbanks and the same route in reverse. Expect to leave town early for either departure and to get in around lunchtime. For a ride in a deluxe motorcoach, another option is The Park Connection (800-266-8625), where travelers can either book tickets from Anchorage or Seward.

TRAIN: Taking the train (the Alaska Railroad turns 100 this season) adds about three hours of travel time to your journey, but it goes through wilderness only accessible on the track. Plus, there’s a dining and bar car, knowledgeable guides and viewing-dome cars with sweeping views of the mountains and valleys along the way. The train makes a stop on the nearly 1,000-foot-long railroad bridge over an enormous gorge known as Hurricane Gulch. On a clear day, you can see Denali from there. (A more economical option both in terms of funds and time is taking the rails one way and a motorcoach back.

Bonus: You’ll see even more of the state.) Check out alaskarailroad.com for more information on riding the train.

GETTING AROUND The National Park Service maintains the only road leading into

A visit to Denali National Park includes the drama of nature taken to new heights.

PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

the park. It’s a 92-mile, mostly gravel route running parallel to the Alaska Range to what was once the mining community of Kantishna.

Normally, from late May to early September, visitors can drive the first 12.5 miles of the road to Savage River with just their park pass.

To go farther than the dozen-ish miles allowed to personal vehicles, travelers have to be on foot, bike or riding on one of the school-busstyle shuttles. You can hop on a cheaper, more flexible bus tour that allows you to get off and on and explore on your own, or you can take a narrated bus tour with a driver who crafts an itinerary for you. There are also courtesy buses that serve the portion of the park road that is publicly driveable, which includes stops at the sled dog kennel and visitors center.

Due to rock slides, during summer 2023, the road will only be open to mile 43 (the road is expected to reopen in 2024). Be sure to check the National Park Service for updates at nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit.

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‘WILL THE MOUNTAIN BE OUT?’: WHERE TO SEE DENALI Rising 20,310 feet, Denali can be seen from parts of Anchorage to Fairbanks on a clear day. But clear days can be hard to come by.

National Park Service rangers stress to visitors that the mammoth mountain is only out one of every three days (a rule that isn’t hard and fast — it could be out for days at a time and then hidden for a month straight).

Even with its great height, the mountain isn’t visible from the park entrance, the surrounding campgrounds or nearby hotels.

Miles 9 and 11 are your first chances of spotting it, the latter spot having a pullout and interpretive waysides with information about the cliff. There are many other spots along the road that allow for peeks of the peak. While the most iconic view of Denali is at Reflection Pond, near Mile 85, the road to that view is closed in 2023.

FOR SURE OPEN IN 2023 SLED DOG KENNEL: Denali is the only national park in the U.S. where rangers do winter patrols via dog sled. But during the few precious months when there isn’t snow on the ground, the dogs have different duties: educating tourists, posing for pictures and getting belly rubs. Their kennel is free to visit, and their handlers are available to chat about what goes into making a sled dog. (Bonus: There’s usually a litter of puppies there training to become full-fledged sled dogs.)

DENALI NATIONAL PARK VISITORS CENTER: If you come in by train, the visitors center will be one of the first buildings you see. It’s the main information center in the park, with exhibits on the park’s history and the animals you might see in the boreal forest outside its doors. There are also various ranger-led activities and hikes that launch from there.

ADVENTURE SPORTS AND FLIGHTSEEING: Various operators tout all manners of escape from their storefronts on Glitter Gulch, a halfmile stretch of road near the park entrance.

Activities range from ATV rides and ziplining near the park to rafting down the Nenana River or flightseeing around the mountain.

Shop around to find an itinerary that matches your interest and budget.

spider out from the center, though hikers are welcome to go off path. Inside the center is also a small art gallery with works depicting the wilderness of Denali.

WONDER LAKE: This is where Ansel Adams’ famous photograph of the mountain was taken. When Denali isn’t shrouded in clouds, its image is mirrored in the water below, making Wonder Lake a favorite spot for photographers.

WHERE TO STAY There are four campgrounds in Denali National Park that will be accessible in 2023: Riley Creek (at the park entrance), Savage River (13 miles in), Sanctuary River (23 miles) and Teklanika River (29 miles).

The sites have anywhere from seven to 53 tent-only campsites, with the exception of Riley Creek, which has 150 sites suitable for camping and RVs. Considering how few campsites there are in the park, we highly recommended you make a reservation ahead of time. For more information, go to reservedenali.com. (Note: In 2023, Sanctuary Campground will take walk-up registrations only. No reservations for this campground are available.)

There are also many hotel, cabin, B&B and hostel options for visitors to Denali National

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Park. Many are clustered just outside the park entrance, a few are found at the end of the park road and more are located in neighboring towns.

While remote, the accommodations at the end of the park road in Kantishna are far from roughing it. Places like Denali Backcountry Lodge, Kantishna Roadhouse and Camp Denali may be 92 miles into the national park, but they don’t skimp on creature comforts like running water, electricity, heat and private bathrooms (granted, there’s no Wi-Fi or cell reception). Generally much spendier than the options at the park entrance, these lodges are usually all-inclusive.

Outside the park, your options vary widely.

Crow’s Nest is made up of terraced rows of cozy cabins tucked up on a hillside, offering exponentially better views of Mount Healy the higher you go; and Denali Princess Wilderness Lodge is one of the biggest lodging options with high-end amenities, including an espresso bar, a dinner theater and laundry services. More lodging options can be found at denalichamber.com.

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REOPENING IN 2024 The National Park Service has announced that the road will remain closed at Mile 43 through the 2023 season. If you’re planning ahead for next summer, however, you can add these spots to your list.

EIELSON VISITOR CENTER: Located at Mile 66, you can reach the Eielson Visitor Center by shuttle. On a clear day, the views of Denali are stunning. Three maintained trails

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A bull moose walks across a small pond between the Seward Highway and the Alaska Railroad tracks at Potter Marsh in Anchorage.

PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

HERE’S HOW TO SEE MUSK OXEN, EAGLES, BEARS AND OTHER ALASKA WILDLIFE UP CLOSE — SAFELY

By B A I L E Y B E R G

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he 49th state is home to an astounding variety of wildlife: Some species are present at the highest density anywhere in the world. These animals have the power to captivate locals and visitors alike; you’ll often see cars pulling over to get a closer look. Here are just a few for your bucket list and tips on where to scope them out.

MOOSE: Locals will joke that moose are to Alaska what squirrels are to the Lower 48. While they’re not quite that ubiquitous, they do often show up where you’d least expect them — perusing a backyard garden, browsing shrubs in a grocery store parking lot or enjoying the long grass on the side of the highway. They’re hard to miss: Adult females weigh between 800 and 1,300 pounds and males tip the scales at 1,200 to 1,600 pounds.

BEARS: Of the species of bear found in Alaska, the two you’re most likely to see are brown bears and black bears. Black bears, the smallest of the bunch, usually dwell in forested areas, but are also more likely to wander into town or pick through garbage cans. Brown bears, also called grizzlies, are spread throughout much of the state. A subspecies of brown bear, the Kodiak bear, is one of the largest kinds of bears and found exclusively in the Kodiak Archipelago. Then there’s the Arcticdwelling polar bear, found in coastal areas above the Arctic Circle and on the North Slope.

DALL SHEEP: Snow white with small, curved, golden-brown horns, this nimble subspecies of sheep thrives in mountainous terrain, where predators can’t reach and humans don’t bother them. You might see them high up on the near-vertical rock face of the Seward Highway — where they can sometimes distract drivers and present a traffic hazard.

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They’re also found throughout Chugach State Park and scattered around Denali National Park and Preserve.

SALMON: Five kinds of salmon can be found in the rivers and streams of Alaska: sockeye (also called red), pink (aka humpy), king (or chinook), coho (silver) and chum (dog). During the summer months, salmon return from the sea to the waters where they were hatched.

Their internal homing devices bring them remarkably close to where they entered the world, and that’s where they mate, spawn and die.

You can watch their epic homecoming journeys throughout the state, though one of the easiest viewing areas, Ship Creek, runs through the heart of downtown Anchorage. There you can watch kings, coho and pink salmon charging upstream and eager anglers standing shoulderto-shoulder, trying to fi ll their freezers. Kings start running in late May through July and cohos claim the river from August through mid-September.

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BALD EAGLES: Bald eagles, Alaska’s largest resident bird of prey with a wing span of up to 7.5 feet, are a frequent sight in the Last Frontier. Some towns, like Unalaska/Dutch Harbor, are practically overrun with this national emblem. It’s estimated that a whopping 30,000 bald eagles are in Alaska.

WHALES: Take a boat in Prince William Sound or Resurrection Bay and, if the timing is right, you’ll see the tails of humpback, bowhead and gray whales waving in the distance. A few of the other kinds of whales in Alaska: beluga populations found in Cook Inlet and Turnagain Arm; bowheads, which come close to North Slope villages during their migration; and orcas, found in Glacier Bay area and the Aleutian Islands.

WHERE TO SEE ALASKA ANIMALS UP CLOSE ALASKA WILDLIFE CONSERVATION CENTER (PORTAGE) Each of the animals at the Conservation Center has a story.

Uli, the female black bear, was found wandering downtown Juneau as a 5-pound cub; Jade, the red fox, was found by joggers after being orphaned; Artemis, a musk ox calf, was found hiding under a raised utility building near Prudhoe Bay after she was separated from her herd. They’ve all found a lifelong home at the sanctuary, which is dedicated to animal care, conservation, research and education. The center has over 200 acres of habitat for the animals — including moose, wood bison, deer, elk, birds of prey, coyotes and reindeer. Some, like the wood bison, are raised and reintroduced to the wild. (Mile 79 of the Seward Highway, Portage)

ALASKA ZOO (ANCHORAGE) Started in 1969 with just Annabelle, an elephant won by a local grocer in a contest, the

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Reindeer Farm in Palmer — they’re friendly and will take grain pellets out of your hand.

Fun fact: These same reindeer participate in the annual Running of the Reindeer at the Anchorage Fur Rondy festival each February (think running of the bulls, but with reindeer in downtown Anchorage). (5561 S. Bodenburg Loop Road, Palmer)

ROBERT G. WHITE LARGE ANIMAL RESEARCH STATION (FAIRBANKS) A red fox comes out of its den in South Anchorage.

PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

zoo now includes more than 100 animals, including polar bears, Dall sheep, harbor seals and Arctic fox. Beyond simply providing a way to view the animals, the zoo focuses on education, research and animal rehabilitation. (4731 O’Malley Road, Anchorage)

ALASKA SEALIFE CENTER (SEWARD) The only coldwater marine science facility in the Western Hemisphere, the SeaLife Center in Seward is where to go if you want to see Steller sea lions, seals, puffins and other coastal birds, salmon, octopus, crabs, starfish and sea urchins. A big part of the SeaLife Center’s mission is rehabilitating injured or abandoned animals from throughout the state, so you might even see an infant walrus, beluga whale or other sea mammal. (301 Railway Ave., Seward)

can purchase in the farm’s gift shop. You can only get as close as the fences allow, but you’ll have no problem seeing the handful of new calves born each spring.

(12850 E. Archie Road, Palmer)

REINDEER FARM (PALMER) You can pet and feed the roughly 150 reindeer at the

Bordering the University of Alaska Fairbanks, this research station is mostly devoted to studying musk oxen, which gives students at the university experience maintaining colonies of large animals. You don’t have to be a student to meet their musk oxen (and the reindeer and cattle that also live there) — LARS has regularly scheduled open hours in the summer and pre-arranged tours in the winter for visitors to stop by. (2220 Yankovich Road, Fairbanks)

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THE MUSK OX FARM (PALMER) Located on a Colony farm in Palmer, The Musk Ox Farm is a domesticated animal operation that began in 1964. Part of the farm’s animal husbandry involves collecting the hair that’s shed from musk ox undercoats each spring. The fibers, called qiviut, are said to be softer than cashmere and warmer than wool when spun into yarn, which you

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Flattop Mountain in Chugach State Park.

PHOTO BY MARC LESTER

HIKING TIPS AND ETIQUETTE: WHAT TO KNOW BEFORE TACKLING THE TRAILS

By B A I L E Y B E R G

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ikers are spoiled for options in Alaska. From quick jaunts near urban centers to multiday hikes, there is no shortage of trail options. While some hikes demand special equipment, like crampons for a glacier trek or a tent for overnight ventures, there are other items you need every time. Here are some of the essentials.

GEAR GOOD SHOES: If you’re doing a fairly flat or paved trail, you can probably get by with trail running shoes or a pair of hiking sandals. If you’re on a hike with multiple creek crossings, muddy trails or loose rocks and scree, you may spend more time missing the ankle support and waterproofing powers of your hiking boots than you’ll spend actually enjoying nature.

LAYERS: Even the most beautiful bluebird day can devolve into a downpour of rain. Be sure to bring moisture-wicking base layers, an insulating layer and a waterproof outer layer to keep you dry and cozy.

A good rule of thumb is to avoid cotton-based clothing, as it doesn’t dry as quickly as others.

BEAR PROTECTION: Did you know that an estimated 30,000 brown bears and 100,000 black bears are spread throughout Alaska? While bear attacks are rare, it’s always a good idea to carry bear spray in an accessible spot (and to know how to use it).

WATER: Staying well-hydrated while hiking is essential for both performance and general survival, so if you can’t carry the amount you need for your trip, bring a filter or purifying tablets to cleanse the water you find along the way. Clear flowing water, like streams, is 22

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usually a better, safer water source than stagnant bodies of water, such as lakes and ponds.

MAP: Cellphone coverage is a rare gift in Alaska’s backcountry, so don’t plan on relying on your cell service to download maps on the trail. Even busier trails in the city can be out of range. If you’re going to use your phone, download a topographic map on your device before you head out. Otherwise, print maps of your desired trail (plus a few miles more of the surrounding area, in case you accidentally wander too far off the map) or pick one up at stores like Alaska Geographic and REI.

TRAIL ETIQUETTE Consider these nature’s rules of the road.

DON’T CUT SWITCHBACKS: When done repeatedly in high-traffic areas, it can lead to erosion.

IF YOU STOP FOR A WATER BREAK OR TO TAKE A PICTURE: move to the side of the trail so others can get by easily.

GIVE HIKERS MOVING UPHILL THE RIGHT OF WAY: They’re working harder than those going downhill.

PACK OUT WHAT YOU PACK IN: Don’t leave empty bottles, food wrappers or toilet paper in the woods. Why would you want to destroy the nature you’re out here to see?

BE MINDFUL OF NOISE POLLUTION: Many people go out into the woods to get away from city noise and to enjoy the sounds of nature, so don’t blast music on speakers. That being said, consider wearing a bear bell to warn the other mammals in the park that you’re coming — you don’t want to catch them by surprise.

SAFETY AROUND MOOSE AND BEARS Generally speaking, neither bears nor moose want anything to do with you. Try to make noise when you’re on the trails — talking,

PHOTO BY LOREN HOLMES

clapping or singing are all good signals that people are coming. If you’re making enough noise that animals can hear your approach and travel slowly enough that they have time to move, you might not even see them.

Alaska’s Department of Fish and Game has some good resources about what to do in case of a close encounter. Here are some general pointers.

MOOSE: Moose are commonly found by trail systems, even in urban centers like Anchorage. Make sure to give them lots of space, and never get between a cow and a calf. Moose aren’t usually aggressive unless they’re provoked, but if a moose charges at you, you should run — a bull moose can weigh over 1,400 pounds, which can do some serious damage. Get behind a tree, car or fence, or put some kind of sturdy object or structure between you and the moose.

BEARS: If you happen to encounter a bear, give it plenty of space and remain calm. If it appears that the bear hasn’t seen you, move away slowly, never taking your eyes off it. If it has seen you, face the bear, stand your ground and talk to it in a normal voice so it recognizes you as a human. Try to seem bigger by standing near others in your group or putting your arms above your head. If the bear comes toward you, raise your voice, throw rocks or sticks and use a deterrent like bear spray if you have it.

Don’t try to outrun the bear — you can’t, and running will trigger the animal’s prey drive, causing it to chase you instinctively. In the very unlikely event that you are attacked, either play dead or fight back.

To play dead, lie as still as possible on your stomach and protect the back of your neck with your hands. If the bear no longer feels you’re a threat, it will most likely leave. Stay motionless as long as you’re able. If the bear sees you moving again, it may renew its attack.

To read up more on the topic, see the Alaska Department of Fish and Game’s guide: “The Essentials for Traveling in Alaska’s Bear Country.”

Regarding situations where you might have to fight back: “Fight any bear that has been calmly focused on you and makes contact or that

breaks into a tent or building. In almost all situations, your best defense against an attacking black bear is to fight back. Concentrate on the bear’s face or muzzle with anything you have on hand.”

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Late-day sun brightens a hike up Flattop Mountain in Chugach State Park on the summer solstice.

PHOTO BY MARC LESTER

HIKES NEAR ANCHORAGE, NO MATTER HOW MUCH TIME YOU HAVE

By B A I L E Y B E R G

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t’s no secret that hiking opportunities in Alaska are worldclass. But while the state is geographically massive, it doesn’t mean all the good stuff is remote — even Anchorage, the largest city, has quick and convenient access to incredible nature. Here are just a few hikes, with varying degrees of length and difficulty, that epitomize the beauty and majesty of Alaska, all within a 30-minute drive of downtown Anchorage.

IF YOU HAVE 3 TO 4 HOURS FLATTOP MOUNTAIN: Easily the most climbed mountain in Alaska, Flattop is a perennial favorite among locals and visitors alike thanks to its well-maintained trail and views encompassing all of Anchorage (and stretching as far as Denali on a clear day).

While the entire mountain stands at 3,510 feet, you’ll only ascend the final 1,280 over the course of a mile and a half. The mountain’s popularity has its pros and cons. On one hand, you don’t need a car to get there — simply take the Flattop Mountain Shuttle ($25 roundtrip; runs May 26 to Sept. 10, 12:15 p.m. to 4:30 p.m.; 907-279-3334). It departs from downtown and arrives at the Glen Alps Trailhead within 30 minutes.

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A runner strides down into Raven Creek valley during the Crow Pass Crossing race.

PHOTO BY MARC LESTER

A man walking on the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail at Point Woronzof is silhouetted against Mount Susitna.

PHOTO BY BILL ROTH

The downside is that it’s easily the most crowded trail in Anchorage, so you may be jockeying for space with other visitors and their dogs. The trail becomes steep near the summit, and the last 300 or so feet call for some rocky scrambling that might be a little scary for novice hikers.

TONY KNOWLES COASTAL TRAIL: If you’re looking for a walk that can be done with coffee in hand, this is it. Starting in downtown Anchorage, this paved 11-mile trail hugs the coast all the way to its terminus in Kincaid Park.

It’s a leisurely path (save for a daunting final half-mile that rises somewhat steeply) that links up with several sightseeing spots, including Westchester Lagoon, Earthquake Park and Point Woronzof. Aside from the occasional urban moose, there aren’t many possibilities of animal sightings until you reach Kincaid Park (unless you count the metal birds blasting off at the Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport), but the land and cityscapes are lovely.

IF YOU HAVE A HALF-DAY RABBIT LAKE: Eight and a half miles out and back, it’s a gorgeous hike the whole way, but the big payoff comes right at the end with views of Rabbit Lake in the shadows of the mighty Yuyanq’ Ch’ex, formerly known as Suicide Peaks. An easy hike with pretty minimal elevation gain, the first half cuts through brush as it runs parallel to the Flattop ridgeline before emerging into an open valley for the final couple of miles. Pack in a picnic and spend

some time soaking in the lakeside views before heading back. Keep an eye out for blueberries in late summer!

EAGLE AND SYMPHONY LAKES: Just northeast of Anchorage near Eagle River, this 12-mile round-trip hike is outrageously photogenic from start to finish.

Even though it’s a longer hike, the bulk of the trail is level, making it easy to breeze through. It’s not until the end when you reach a boulder field that you really need to watch your step (this part can be challenging for small kids and dogs). But the finale, including the two lakes — one mint green, the other a deep aquamarine — separated by a single moraine, and the towering peaks on all sides, makes the effort worth it.

FULL DAY OR WANT TO DO AN OVERNIGHT TRIP WILLIWAW LAKES: Tucked in Chugach State Park, this string of nine alpine lakes allows for the most customizable itinerary. You could do a big loop, starting at the Prospect Heights Trailhead parking lot and coming back via the Campbell Creek Canyon Trail and Near Point. You could take it easy, going down Powerline Pass to Middle Fork to the Williwaw Lakes Trail, following the creek through the valley as long as you care to before turning around.

Or, if you start at the Glen Alps Trailhead, you could go up and over via the “football field” (also called the “ballfield”) for a workout that’ll make your legs burn but offers the most aweinspiring views of the valley.

Whichever way you choose, you’ll almost certainly see moose or

Dall sheep.

CROW PASS: If you travel light, move quickly and start early, you can cover the 21-mile trail in a single day. Most people choose to break it up over two days, though.

Starting in Girdwood, the trail passes glaciers, waterfalls, mine ruins and a Forest Service cabin, then winds through a valley to the Eagle River before terminating at the Eagle River Nature Center. The river crossing can be dangerous (the depth of its frigid waters can reach

your belly button, though it’s lower earlier in the morning, and the current is swift), so it’s not recommended for a solo trek. Your odds of seeing wild animals — ranging from arctic ground squirrels, marmots and Dall sheep to bears and moose — are good, considering the trail isn’t as trafficked as others in the Chugach. Make sure to arrange for transport back to town from the end of the trail in Eagle River, though: The hike back to Girdwood is uphill.

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Water carves through the tundra deep in the Williwaw Lakes valley in Chugach State Park.

PHOTO BY VICKY HO

A VISITOR’S GUIDE TO LEGAL CANNABIS IN ALASKA

Budtenders at cannabis retail shops around the state are a resource for information about local marijuana varieties.

PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

By Z A C H A R I A H H U G H E S

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o, you’re visiting Alaska and wondering about weed.

You’ve come to the right place.

Here’s an overview of where you can find what you’re looking for — and how to safely consume in a way that respects a, frankly, confounding patchwork of rules and regulations.

Whether you’re a cannabis connoisseur or just looking to sample a novel local offering during vacation, Alaska’s pot industry is a smallerscale version of what you’re likely to encounter in bigger markets.

THE BASICS Alaska has long had permissive rules when it comes to cannabis, but following a 2014 ballot initiative, the state fully legalized recreational consumption for anyone 21 and older. That includes tourists, provided you have a valid ID to show. Cannabis is regulated more or less like alcohol, so if you’re wondering if something is legal or not, ask yourself “Would I get in trouble doing this with a cocktail in my hand or an open beer?”

The big caveat is that Alaska has almost no equivalents of bars for pot. With the exception of one establishment in Fairbanks, Good Titrations, there are no “pot cafes” or easy commercial locations in which to light up.

This leaves visitors with relatively few places to legally consume.

Most hotels and bars ban indoor smoking (of everything). If you’re staying on private property, check the rules or with your host. As with alcohol, it remains unlawful to consume in public parks and greenbelts.

This all gets especially confusing given that federally regulated entities like planes, marine ferries and national parks within Alaska still abide by full prohibitions on cannabis. The state has a handy and comprehensive guide about lawful consumption while you’re visiting.

WHERE TO BUY Most of the cities and towns in Alaska that a tourist is likely to visit have cannabis retail shops. The state has the highest number of retailers per capita of any in the union (take that, Oregon!). If you’re in population centers like Anchorage, Juneau or Fairbanks, you should have no problem finding a number of high-quality retailers. Even smaller towns that tend to see lots of summer tourists and cruise-ship passengers have multiple well-stocked businesses with a full range of products.

While rural hub towns in Western Alaska like Nome, Bethel and Kotzebue have pot shops, most of the small, primarily Indigenous communities do not, and have local bans on cannabis commerce, as they do with alcohol.

Shops abide by strict standards for IDing customers, so make sure you have your driver’s license or a state-issued ID handy when you enter. They also deal primarily in cash, though businesses will typically have an ATM on site. Don’t expect to just breeze in with your AmEx or Apple Pay. VISITORS’ GUIDE •

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Once inside, “budtenders” are on hand to help you find what you need, and are generally exceptionally well versed in the merits of the products on hand. Don’t be afraid to ask questions. The industry is still relatively new, and staff, especially budtenders, are accustomed to helping customers find what they are looking for, not dismiss or belittle people who are new to cannabis.

Same as you would with a barista or bartender, always tip your budtender.

WHAT TO BUY Owing to a number of factors, Alaska has a unique cannabis industry relative to other states that have legalized recreational use. Though there are some bigger players, the state’s cultivators, manufacturers and retailers are generally small and independently run. We are overwhelmingly a “mom and pop”-type cannabis industry, without the major corporate and heavily financed conglomerates that have begun to dominate in the Lower 48 — at least so far.

The cannabis scene here is creative, collegial, comprehensive and high-quality. You’ll find most of the same products you’d encounter in bigger, more sophisticated markets. The caveat is that the range of options, particularly for more cutting edge and highly refined products, might be a bit smaller.

And a bit more costly. Everything is more expensive in Alaska, from energy costs to cultivation equipment to labor, and that is reflected at the point of sale. Businesses work hard to keep costs low for consumers, but you’re still likely to find familiar products a bit pricier than if you’re buying them in Seattle or Los Angeles.

Bud flower remains the most popular product in retail shops across the state, with plenty of strains and strengths to choose from. Alaskans have tended to prefer higher THC strains, which are generally what’s

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PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

most ubiquitous at product counters.

There are lots of small and ambitious edible operations that have thrived in the last few years. Cookies and gummies, sure, but also highly local fare like THC-infused fireweed honey, cannabis ice cream and “strawberry moose milk,” which … does not actually come from a moose. It can be hit or miss wandering into a shop if you have a specific edible product in mind, so check the menu online or look up an edible manufacturer’s website and see where they supply their products.

As far as more avant-garde concentrate products go, from THC cartridges to sugar wax to live rosin offerings, Alaska lags just slightly behind what’s happening in major markets. Again, it’s best to query a particular store or company in advance if you have a specific product you’re intent on purchasing.

Whatever your level of interest in cannabis, spending a little bit of cash while you’re visiting (even if it’s just on a shop T-shirt or hat) supports local businesses and chips in a little tax money to our state budget, which are things to generally feel good about.

And lastly: Always, always tip your budtenders.

Like most commodities, you’re likely to find familiar cannabis products are a bit pricier in Alaska than in the continental U.S. PHOTO BY MARC LESTER

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Altura Bistro chef and owner Nathan Bentley pours bone marrow dashi tableside for his black cod dish. The Alaska-caught black cod is served with ginger-nori butter, pork dumplings, bone marrow dashi, bok choy and fresno chili. Bentley is a two-time James Beard Award semifinalist.

PHOTO BY LOREN HOLMES

IF YOU WANT TO TASTE THE BEST ALASKA HAS TO OFFER, THINK SEAFOOD

By M A R A S E V E R I N

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like to explore a new place fork first. A destination’s culinary landscape is often as interesting as its topographical one.

And Alaska is no different. If you want to break the ice with a local, ask them about their favorite pizza. Or burger. Or bowl of pho. You’ll definitely hear about Moose’s Tooth Pub & Pizzeria, which might be described as one of the city’s most important social hubs. You’ll hear about the broth-tonoodle soup ratios at old-school Vietnamese eatery Ray’s Place vs. the trendy Phonatik in South Anchorage. You’ll hear about Tommy’s Burger Stop, Lucky Wishbone and Arctic Roadrunner, where loyal locals have gotten their burger-and-fries fi x for decades.

Landlubbers, quit reading here.

For most visitors to Alaska, fork-first travel means seafood. Fish is at the top of our gourmet (and recreational) food chain.

Many residents love to fish, and those who don’t make sure to befriend someone who does. How else will you keep your second freezer packed tight with salmon and halibut?

However, if during your Alaska vacation you’re not lucky enough to finagle a dinner

invitation from a well-stocked local, never fear. The seafood-savvy chefs at Anchorage’s best restaurants have you covered.

From sweet king crab legs to humble halibut tacos, dining out in Anchorage means eating the way many Alaskans dine in. Which is to say, beautifully.

SPECTACULAR SALMON Salmon, in Alaska, is both a luxury and a staple. Flaky, fatty (the good kind of fat) and full-flavored, salmon stands up to a wide range of preparations, including the smokiness and heat of an open flame. There are five salmon species found in Alaska, but the king variety is, well, king.

If you’re going to treat yourself to a glistening piece of Alaska king salmon (also known as chinook), you should also treat yourself to a view of Cook Inlet and Mount Susitna (known locally as the Sleeping Lady).

Simon and Seafort’s offers sweeping views of the mountains of the Alaska Range as well as a full range of Alaska’s finest seafood — black cod, halibut, and both sockeye and king varieties of salmon — prepared your way: grilled, baked, pan seared or blackened.

For similarly beautiful views with a more relaxed vibe, check out the 49th State Brewing Co., where grilled king salmon is served on a bed of brown and red rice, kale, red quinoa with a lemon cream sauce and can

be paired with a house-brewed IPA. Bonus points for grabbing a spot at the best deck in town.

Or keep your eyes peeled for the “Big Blue “ — the Salmon HookUp Truck — which makes appearances at festivals, breweries and food truck fairs around Anchorage throughout the summer. Owned and operated by commercial fishermen, the Cook Inlet salmon in their sandwiches, quesadillas, tacos and kebabs is as fresh as it’s possible to get anywhere. It’s like a taste of the ocean on wheels.

For a meal with a little Latin flair, duck into the chic and trendy Tequila 61 for salmon tacos garnished with crispy fried onions, grilled pineapple and chipotle slaw. Make sure to wash them down with one of their topnotch scratch margaritas.

For a bit of Asian flair with your fish, head to local favorite Kincaid Grill, which serves a troll-caught salmon crusted in togarashi roasted peanuts, served with broccolini and vermicelli rice noodles in a coconut red curry.

Or you can get your seafood fi x at the most important meal of the day by hitting up Snow City Cafe for a Ship Creek Benedict made with smoked salmon cakes. This laid-back local favorite also offers fantastic salmon BLT and a snow crab Benedict (Oscar style). When it comes to breakfast in Alaska, it’s go big or go home.

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HEAVENLY HALIBUT Considering the size of this behemoth catch (some exceed 400 pounds), Alaska halibut is prized for its delicate, buttery flavor.

Its name is derived from half (holy) and butte (flat fish), and a beautifully prepared fillet can indeed be a spiritual experience.

Its immaculate white flesh — firm textured and clean tasting — lends itself to a wide variety of flavor profiles.

At Orso, downtown Anchorage’s buzzy Italian eatery, you can order it served simply in a thin wrapper of salty prosciutto with a Marsala garlic butter sauce. Next door, the halibut fillet at Glacier Brewhouse is coated with basil pesto and spent grain breadcrumbs and will pair nicely with one of their house-made beers.

One of Anchorage’s newer downtown hot spots, Tent City Taphouse, also has fish and chips-style halibut, with traditional mushy peas and a less traditional gluten-free batter and their own raspberry and blackberry tartar sauce.

The always-inventive Crush Bistro serves halibut cheeks and glass noodles with a kaffir lime beurre blanc, basil, blood orange and pistachio butter, if you’re looking for a bit of citrusy zing with your fish. In Midtown, the refined but relaxed Kinley’s Restaurant also offers halibut cheeks served with pancetta and pea risotto, lemon brown butter, basil oil and a balsamic reduction.

But if you want to eat halibut

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King crab legs and blue-cheese-stuffed filet at Club Paris in downtown Anchorage.

PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

like a true local, look for the hand-held variety. Humpy’s Great Alaskan Alehouse serves up ever-popular halibut tacos that most locals could describe from memory. You can also enjoy your seafood al fresco at El Green-Go’s, a popular downtown food truck where you can customize your fish tacos with either halibut or salmon. The White Spot Cafe, established in 1946, is an oldschool lunch counter that serves up a lightly battered halibut sandwich revered by Anchorage residents for decades. Similarly old-school and just as beloved is Arctic Roadrunner, which serves salmon and halibut burgers topped with traditional fixings and some of the best onion rings in town. Their dining room is a treasure trove of nostalgic Alaskana, and on nice days you can eat your lunch outdoors along Campbell Creek.

THE KING OF CRAB Alaska king crab legs have such a sweetly subtle flavor that I’m resistant to experimental recipes. Drawn butter and perhaps a few lemon wedges are, for me, the ideal accompaniment to this particular delicacy.

Happily, many of Anchorage’s best restaurants share my view.

Crow’s Nest, 49th State Brewing Co., Simon & Seafort’s and Tent City Taphouse all offer this decadent treat, by the pound, in its simplest form. And if you want your old-school dish served in an old-school dining room, head to Club Paris, which has

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been serving seafood and steak since the 1950s, and where you can eat your crab with a side of nostalgia and a dash of “Mad Men” atmosphere.

For a spicier take on king crab, check out downtown’s new Cajun Corner, where your king crab legs are served “bucket style” and can share space on your plate with tiger shrimp, crawfish, andouille sausage, corn and potatoes. Or in South Anchorage, order a feast at Inferno Seafood Boil, where the sign encourages

you to “get kraken.” You can order king crab and live varieties of blue crab, Dungeness and snow crab (among other crustacean varieties). You can’t get much fresher than that.

A cheeky king crab offering can be found at Altura Bistro in a deeply decadent red king crab macaroni and cheese featuring fresh gemelli, hatch chilies, aged white cheddar, fontina, grana and gremolata. And while there, do not — I repeat, do not — pass up a bowl of their sweet prawn

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bisque.

Of course, if you’re going to eat the king of crabs, you might as well be treated like royalty. The elegant and upscale Crow’s Nest restaurant at the top of the Hotel Captain Cook will fit the bill with impeccable service and 360-degree views.

SCALLOPS A fine-dining destination with low-key charm is The Marx Bros. Cafe, located in a diminutive, freestanding historic house on Third Avenue in downtown. A bit of planning is called for in order to snag one of the 14 tables at this cozy culinary gem.

Once there, try their Kodiak scallops served with a piquillo pepper-truffle velouté, with cauliflower and house-made pasta. Marx Bros. also boasts one of the best wine cellars in the state and will be happy to help you find the perfect sip for your scallops.

Or head over to Ginger, where seared diver scallops are served atop a basil-pine nut crusted three-cheese pasta, tomato brunoise, and finished with truffle oil and fresh basil.

This is not your grandma’s mac and cheese.

In Midtown, there’s Jens’ Restaurant, a long-standing white-tablecloth favorite.

At Jens’, you’ll find sophisticated versions of Alaska’s finest, including a mushroom-

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OUT-OF-THE-ORDINARY OYSTERS As my family will tell you, I love oysters.

Every year, I dutifully bring my family to the Alaska State Fair. And while I like giant pumpkins and baby piglets as much as the next person, secretly I go for the oysters.

When I arrive, I saddle up to the Pristine Products oyster booth and down a quick dozen of Prince William Sound’s finest while watching the pros shuck the next plateful. At the end of the day, after my family has stuffed themselves full of funnel cake and onion blossoms, I’ve been biding my time and saving my appetite. My farewell gesture to the fair is to slurp back another dozen oysters on my way out. They’re that good.

If you aren’t lucky enough to be visiting during the Alaska State Fair, you’ll just have to suck it up (so to speak) and get your fix without the funnel-cake palate cleanser.

Many restaurants serve fresh-shucked local oysters with a traditional mignonette or cocktail sauce, including Fletcher’s (the more casual dining option in the Hotel Captain Cook) and Sullivan’s Steakhouse (which also

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serves them charbroiled and Rockefellerstyle). At the Crow’s Nest, raw oysters are served with a rotating and always creative “mignonette of the day.”

In Midtown, Altura Bistro serves fresh oysters with cucumber caviar, yuzu mignonette and ruby grapefruit while nearby, Kinley’s serves them cold in a Riesling mignonette or au gratin in roasted shallot cream sauce topped with basil and sauteed spinach.

That said, the cold salt waters of Alaska’s coast produce the most delicious oysters in the world — plump, sweet and briny — so after dabbling with dips, toppings and sauces, do yourself a favor and end your meal with at least one oyster eaten au naturel. A little taste of the sea is the perfect dessert.

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HEAD TO DOWNTOWN ANCHORAGE FOR FOOD, SHOPPING AND NIGHTLIFE

By K A T I E P E S Z N E C K E R

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nchorage’s downtown offers shopping options, tourist attractions and a range of restaurants and bars. It’s conveniently compact for visitors who are ready to explore on foot.

Of the roughly 732,600 people who live in Alaska, nearly 292,000 people call Anchorage home. While the town proper sprawls across 1,706 square miles, the downtown core is neatly compressed, the oldest developed part of the city. Its sensible street grids render it pleasantly walkable and easily navigable, a bonus for tourists who are lodging downtown or visitors who build an Anchorage stop into itineraries.

Start your urban adventure at the central Log Cabin Visitor Information Center at the corner of F Street and Fourth Avenue.

Staffed year-round by well-versed hosts, you’ll find information about Anchorage history, general visitor guides and access to out-of-town excursions and city tours. Also of note, across the downtown corridor, interpretive sidewalk signs tell stories of Anchorage’s earliest days and signal important landmarks.

While the 1964 Good Friday Earthquake destroyed many of

Anchorage’s older buildings, significant historic structures remain.

Next to the visitor center sits the two-story cast concrete Historic City Hall, which first opened in 1936. Its lawn is often fronted by summer vendors selling ever-popular reindeer hot dogs and sometimes hosts outdoor public concerts.

Nearby, a handful of charming circa-1915 cottages on Third Avenue are among the city’s original homes. Just below downtown in Ship Creek, the Alaska Railroad Anchorage Depot, built in 1942, still serves the state’s rails today.

The circa-1915 Oscar Anderson House Museum at 420 M St. today is surrounded by a charming park, a quiet corner of downtown where kids can burn off some energy. The house, which in past summers has opened to tourists, is a peek back in time to the pioneer days, when namesake Anderson claimed to be the 18th settler to arrive in “Tent City.” His widow donated the property to posterity in 1976.

Other downtown stops for the historically curious include the Anchorage Museum, at 625 C St., packed with historical, arts and cultural exhibits, and the Fraternal Order of the Alaska State Troopers Alaska Law Enforcement Museum, boasting the state’s only collection of historical law enforcement memorabilia.

The Anchorage Memorial Park Cemetery, established in 1915

by President Woodrow Wilson, is the final resting place for some of Anchorage’s most significant pioneers and historical figures, including Alaska Native leaders, politicians and artists. The 22-acre cemetery covers a nine-block area and offers contemplative space for walking along its footpaths.

Downtown’s shopping options help pass the time too. The Anchorage 5th Avenue Mall has lost many retailers in recent years, though it still has local and chain stores of interest, and a food court with affordable dining options.

Seeking authentic Alaska treasures? Venture beyond the mall and wander downtown’s streets, lined with tourist shops selling reasonably

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priced T-shirts, hats and trinkets. More valuable Alaska mementos like fur, ivory and Alaska Native art are sold at higher-end boutiques.

A couple spots to not miss: the Sevigny Studio (314 G St.) sells locally crafted jewelry, pottery and artwork, including work by its namesake Katie Sevigny; and The Kobuk (504 W. Fifth Ave.) is a charming shop selling locally made collectibles and global crafts, foreign foods, gourmet candies and a wide range of tea.

ANCHORAGE DINING AND NIGHTLIFE Anchorage’s nighttime pursuits range from sporty pubs to higher-end cocktail bars to no-frills Alaska dive bars. A hot ticket during Anchorage’s long-lit summer days is to score a patio or deck seat and soak in the novelty of late-day sunshine.

For pub-crawling, begin at the corner of F Street and Sixth Avenue, across from the Alaska Center for the Performing Arts, where a nexus of bars includes Humpy’s Great Alaskan Alehouse (610 W. Sixth Ave.). The menu covers the gamut of Alaska pub grub, like fried halibut and king crab nuggets with garlic aioli, and its expansive beer selection is top-tier. Next door to Humpy’s is Flattop Pizza + Pool (600 W. Sixth Ave.), featuring a

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Across the street, Williwaw Social (601 F St.) boasts a rooftop bar that opens on nice summer days and is unparalleled for its sunsoaked views of Anchorage’s Town Square.

A second option for open-air patio time is 49th State Brewing Co. (717 W. Third Ave.), whose deck overlooks Cook Inlet and even the tip-top of Denali during favorably clear conditions.

For a fancier evening, several fine-dining restaurants downtown have similarly delicious cocktail creations and extensive wine selections.

Ginger (425 W. Fifth Ave.) serves Pacific Rim-influenced cuisine with a modern, warm aesthetic and a chic bar. Crush Bistro (328 G St.) features wine flights from an impressive cellar presented by competent staff, alongside shareable small plates and seasonally sourced entrees.

Haute Quarter Grill (525 W. Fourth Ave.) boasts upscale American cuisine, featuring Alaska seafood and home-grown produce whenever possible. This is a great spot on a warm summer night when the bar opens up its front-facing accordion walls and diners can enjoy patio seating.

Looking for a view? Check out Simon & Seafort’s, and enjoy craft cocktails and Alaska

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seafood while staring out at pretty Cook Inlet.

Or head to the top floor of the Hotel Captain Cook where dining or the bar at Crow’s Nest promises impressive views of downtown and the Chugach Mountains.

For a more laid-back dive-bar experience, and a chance to mingle with friendly locals, try Darwin’s Theory (426 G St.) or Pioneer Bar (739 W. Fourth Ave). Both share commonalities: long legacies, personable bartenders, and affordable drinks.

Mad Myrna’s (530 E. Fifth Ave.) is downtown’s lively and welcoming gay club, recently remodeled. With drag shows, cabaret performances, karaoke nights and dancing, Myrna’s is a true standout with a highenergy vibe and a long tradition of inclusive entertainment in the Last Frontier.

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COFFEE CULTURE, ANCHORAGE STYLE

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ven the hardiest Alaskans need a coping mechanism or two to help us through the long winter. Whether it’s sun lamps, blackout curtains, aromatherapy — you name it, we’ve probably tried it. And, sure, long walks and vitamin D are great, but have you tried coffee? One thing most Alaskans rely on is year-round coffee therapy.

A hot, frothy cappuccino, sipped in a cozy cafe, can be the perfect cure for the lowwinter-sun blues. Or, skip the trudge through a snowy parking lot and pick up a hot brew from one of Anchorage’s many drive-thru coffee carts. Sip smugly in your warm car.

Caffeinated pick-me-ups are no less valuable in summer when Alaskans are burning the candle at both ends. After all, if the sun never goes down, is it ever really bedtime?

Which is why Alaska’s coffee roasters are household names to the locals. There’s Kaladi Brothers, which grew from a lone espresso cart in 1984 to a burgeoning business with 16 stores around the state (and one in Seattle). There is SteamDot Coffee Co., whose Midtown cafe (located in the Midtown Mall) features a “slow bar” with a rotating menu of origin coffees, where your coffee is ground and brewed fresh to order. Or try “The Lab” — which they describe as “the mothership” of their operation. Here you can enjoy your favorite hand-crafted beverage or take a seat at their pour-over bar if you like your brew with a little bravado. And then there’s Black Cup — they serve a full menu of espresso drinks but their motto, as their name implies, is: “Extraordinary coffee best served black” (341 E. Benson Blvd.). Undecided? Head over to Sip Coffee Lounge (510 W. Tudor Road), where you can order a flight of coffees featuring both Kaladi Brothers and Black Cup brews. (Sip is also known to do other unusual flights — pickle and beer flight, anyone?)

It’s a friendly battle of the beans. Everyone has their favorite, but each of these coffee 36

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A barista prepares a latte at Black Cup in Midtown.

PHOTO BY LOREN HOLMES

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purveyors enjoys a well-earned popularity.

But coffee can be as much about cafe culture as it is about beans.

A good coffee house is part community center, part extended office, part mental day spa and part art gallery. It’s a great way to learn about someplace new. And in Anchorage, cafe culture is thriving.

The Kaladi Brothers Cafe at the Performing Arts Center (621 W. Sixth Ave.) in downtown is a bustling space and a convenient spot to grab a cup of stamina while in the midst of souvenir shopping or if you’re on the way to see a show. Another cozy spot is Moose A’La Mode (360 K St.), featuring expertly made coffee drinks, fantastic hot dogs (really!) and some of the best cupcakes in town, with inventive flavors like s’mores, blueberry lemonade and cinnamon toast crunch.

Another spot that specializes in sweet treats and brew is Gelatte (with a downtown location and one in the Dimond Center mall) where, as the name suggests, you can warm up with a specialty drink or cool down with house-made ice cream. Or you can thread both needles and order an affogato, if you want a grown-up sip that pleases your inner child. Another local favorite is Dark Horse Coffee (646 F St.), a cozy, slightly out-of-the-way spot with a reputation for great coffee drinks (which they source from Heritage Coffee in Juneau), avocado toast and warm welcomes. Bonus points for their inviting little porch, where you can sit and sip on sunny days.

The Cubby, the spacious and comfortable coffee shop in Anchorage’s most elegant hotel, the Captain Cook, serves delicious Kaladi Brothers coffee drinks with a side of nautical style. With big windows, it’s an excellent place to put your feet up and do some people-watching. Open later in the day than some downtown coffee spots, they now offer wine and beer if you are needing a different kind of pick-me-up.

If you require an American breakfast alongside your Americano, Kaladi Brothers coffee (including their own Snow City espresso blend)

is served up at the friendly Snow City Cafe (1034 W. Fourth Ave.). A favorite with locals, this funky, vibrant spot features rotating local art, an impressive variety of eggs Benedict and espresso drinks. I’m particularly partial to their use of tall, sleeved pint glasses to serve large-sized lattes and mochas. Hot drinks taste better served this way.

It’s just science.

Originale, the authentic, downtown Italian deli, serves a variety of traditional specialty Italian coffee drinks. And if you can resist their incredible sandwiches stuffed with imported Italian salumi, then I bow to your superior willpower (my favorite is the “Don Quixote,” with ham, homemade garlic mousse and Manchego cheese). You can also purchase vacuum-sealed sandwiches that are perfect for road trips, camping or your plane ride home. Picking up your morning coffee and your afternoon lunch in one stop is a delicious way to multitask. (400 D St.) That Feeling Co. (logo: “Plants, Coffee, and All the Feels), with a location in Midtown and one just on the edge of downtown, is an eclectic houseplant, gift and coffee shop. The downtown location shares its space with Fire Island Rustic Bakeshop and Charlie’s Produce, making this a one-stop shopping, can’t-miss experience (718 K St.).

The bakery makes some of the best breads, pastries, sandwiches and cookies in town, and we all know that pastries get lonely without a cup of coffee to keep them company. As you sip and munch in the indoor jungle of houseplants, you’ll appreciate this site’s popularity with the locals. I personally appreciate the little produce stand, because if you come home from an afternoon of mochas and croissants carrying a bag of local carrots, you can say you’ve been “doing errands.”

In East Anchorage, Cafecito Bonito, a warm, community-spirited coffee spot, serves espresso drinks with a Latin flair — like a Spanish latte with sweetened condensed milk, a Café de Olla featuring

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piloncillo (unrefined sugar, which lends a caramel flavor to drinks), or the horchata, which features rice milk and cinnamon. They also host popular and unique events like drag lotería and brunches. The baked goods are unique and delicious, such as scones with flavors like strawberry basil, maple bacon and lavender.

For a unique coffeehouse experience with a bohemian vibe, head to Spenard and track down Uncle Leroy’s Coffee, a local roaster that began in a 1968 bus (and owned by an “outlaw preacher” according to legend).

The origin story is scrappy, but the drinks being served from this mobile coffee bar are anything but (the bus is in operation during summer months only).

Or hit up Spenard Joe’s (motto: Not Your Average Joe) for some of the most unique coffee creations in town. Try the “Lady Godiva,” a lavender mocha with salted black currant whipped cream, or the “Spenard Fog” made from whiskey barrel aged black tea with vanilla and cayenne, topped with cinnamon frothed milk.

On the other end of the ambiance spectrum is Kobuk Coffee (504 W. Fift h Ave.). By Town Square, in the historic Kimball Building (1915), this charming little gift shop retains some of its original fi xtures and flooring. In a store packed full of unnecessary necessities (old-timey candy, scented candles and teacups), you’ll be hard-pressed to make it to the coffee room without doing some impromptu browsing (and, if you’re like me, buying).

Kobuk offers a whole range of espresso drinks and a wide variety of teas but, whichever you choose, make sure you get house-made doughnuts to keep it company.

What kind of doughnuts, you ask? Like everything else in the store: old-fashioned.

One of the best places to soak up local color and read up on local lore is The Writer’s Block, a cozy book shop with an excellent cafe featuring local coffee, beer and wine, and an eclectic food menu (I’m partial to the currydusted pelmeni).

The Writer’s Block has a unique origin story. Four good friends reclaimed a bit of old Spenard and transformed the site of an adult bookstore (literally called “Adult Book Store”) into a welcome and inclusive cultural hub.

With comforting food, well-crafted drinks, a lovingly selected range of books featuring local writers and a menu of eclectic events like poetry slams, book launches and even the occasional Japanese sake tasting, this space has quickly become the neighborhood’s living room.

The cafe took a hit after a significant earthquake in 2018. Glasses shattered, books scattered and even a heavy fi ling cabinet

A barista chats with a customer at That Feeling Co. in downtown Anchorage.

PHOTO BY LOREN HOLMES

took a dive. But when the doors opened that morning, they were not the only ones who got to work.

“Our first customers walked in and asked for brooms,” recalls Vered Mares, one of the

bookstore’s founders. “They said, ‘We’ll sweep up. You make the coffee.’”

It’s a reminder that a cup of coffee can invigorate, but a cafe can inspire.

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Cyclists pause along the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail at Point Woronzof to watch cargo planes take off from Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport.

PHOTO BY ERIK HILL

ANCHORAGE HAS A TERRIFIC TRAIL SYSTEM. HERE’S WHERE TO START EXPLORING.

By K A T I E P E S Z N E C K E R

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authentically experience Anchorage life, tackle the city’s extensive and impressive trail system.

It’s an award-winning and intertwined network of routes connecting the city’s various neighborhoods.

Anchorage boasts more than 120 miles of paved bike and multi-use trails, not to mention 130 miles of plowed winter walkways, 105 miles of maintained ski trails, 36 miles of dog mushing trails and 87 miles of non-paved hiking trails — and that’s just within the municipality!

Many makeshift routes wander into woodsy stands within neighborhoods. Or, ramble beyond and connect to Chugach State Park, with its scenic alpine tundra and access some 495,000 acres of jaw-dropping scenery.

Within town limits, Anchorage’s impressive trail system borders the city’s watery coast, travels thick forests and connects pretty parks and multitudes of neighborhoods. Pedestrian tunnels barrel protectively beneath busy roadways, and wood-planked bridges span creeks and streams. This comprehensive system is the foundation for recreation, exploration, relaxing and, in some cases, commuting. Overall, Anchorage’s trail system is ideal for visitors who want to experience Alaska’s largest city from the vantage point of its natural surroundings.

The crown jewel of the system is the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail, a recreational conduit for walkers, bicyclists, runners and rollerbladers in its popular summer months.

The 11-mile trail connects downtown’s historic Second Avenue sector to the multiuse chalet at Kincaid Park. The generally flat grade affords easy access and use for all ages and abilities. There are multiple locations to access this picturesque route, making it a scalable and customizable experience. From

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this beloved route, users will enjoy views of the downtown skyline, possibly wildlife and Denali, and skirt the fault line of the epic 1964 Good Friday Earthquake.

Begin or pause your Coastal Trail outing at Westchester Lagoon. Just 1.6 miles from the trail’s downtown start, the lagoon features plenty of parking and an expansive park, with Chugach Mountain views, serene water, picnic tables and benches for contemplative breaks and a nice playground for kids.

Birders will appreciate waterfowl, migrating shorebirds, mallards, grebes, swallows and more. The lagoon sets the stage for a splashy summer paddle. When iced over in winter, it transforms into a popular spot for skating and hockey.

From Westchester, travel 9 miles on the Coastal Trail to Kincaid Park, or hop on the eastbound 4-mile-long Chester Creek Trail. The Chester Creek Trail is paved, flat and fun, following its namesake creek as it tumbles and burbles over rocky shallows and carves meandering braided paths across

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silty riverbeds. Popular points of interest on Chester Creek include Valley of the Moon Park, another spot worthy of picnic or play on a pleasant summer day.

Chester Creek Trail ends at Goose Lake Park, in central Anchorage near the University District. If you’re not ready for your walk to end, follow the 3-mile paved trail surrounding this scenic lake. Warm summer days draw swimmers here, and municipal lifeguard schedules are updated on the lake’s website. Adults must be present while children are swimming.

Another popular entry point or rest stop along the Coastal Trail is Earthquake Park.

Famous for the long-gone houses that slid into the sea with the 1964 Good Friday Earthquake, the park today is a spacious parking lot and viewpoint with interpretive signs pointing out significant peaks. There are opportunities for striking photos of downtown Anchorage, and on clear days, you may see North America’s tallest peak, Denali, and its companion mountains Foraker and Hunter on the northern horizon.

If you want to go big, consider tying all these trails together and attempting the growing-in-popularity Moose Loop. The Moose Loop is an inventive hodge-podge of existing routes and imaginative links that, creatively, might be viewed almost-kind-of, sort-of like the shape of a moose head.

The route is 32 miles and it covers it all — from parks to schools, trails to neighborhood streets, past businesses and homes, in quiet woodsy areas and crossing highway overpasses. It’s a buffet of Anchorage biking and an epic ride. The major trails that cover the Moose Loop do not seamlessly link, so riding this route demands paying attention to location and being nimble in making one’s way.

For those eager to bike the trail system, multiple downtown vendors rent bikes all year round. Rates and lengths of rentals vary from hourly to by the day or even the week.

Downtown Bicycle Rental (333 W. Fourth Ave. #206; 907-279-5293) offers all kinds of options and accessories, including complimentary bear spray and electric bikes. Alaska Pablo’s Bicycle Rentals (415 L St.; 277-2453) is also open year-round with plenty of wheels for rent.

SAFETY TIPS Anchorage’s trail system is busy and full of people of varying skills and abilities traveling at different speeds, so it’s important to remember some basic safety and courtesy guidelines. The municipality reminds users that trails are usually multi-use and not intended for racing, so be aware of surroundings, travel at safe speeds and never

The Tony Knowles Coastal Trail winds through Anchorage.

PHOTO BY BILL ROTH

take up more than half the trail.

Keep right, except to pass. Listen for others upon approach; it’s common for bicyclists and others to have bells on, or to verbally warn those ahead of their approach by saying

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things like “on your left!”

All pets must be leashed. The law requires any animal or human litter be picked up and disposed of. Even so, keep an eye out for meandering dogs as you navigate turns and narrow spaces. Leashing dogs is also a good idea due to ever-present wildlife in the area.

Wildlife awareness is key. Moose, bears, coyotes and other animals share city trails, and that’s especially true the farther one travels from downtown. Be alert and give wildlife plenty of room — moose, in particular, often show up on or near the trails.

When traveling in bear country, be mindful of making noise, traveling with one or more people whenever possible, and staying observant.

It’s smart to carry water and make sure someone knows your route plan. Applying bug spray and carrying bear spray are smart moves. Sunscreen shouldn’t be forgotten in the long summer daylight hours.

Of note: Camps where unhoused people reside are present along some of the Anchorage greenbelts off the trail system, and you may notice them as you go by. Daytime is the best time to access the trails, and as always, be aware of your environment and exercise caution when traveling, especially when solo.

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BREWERIES, DISTILLERIES, CIDERIES: WHEN IN ALASKA, DRINK AS ALASKANS DO

A Tent City Taphouse bartender/server pours a glass of Grace Ridge Hazy IPA from Homer.

PHOTO BY BILL ROTH

By M A R A S E V E R I N

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exchange for living in what is perhaps the country’s most beautiful state, Alaskans sometimes have to do without: professional sports teams, Trader Joe’s and, well, sunlight for half the year. But we make up for it with the Iditarod, reindeer sausages and aurora borealis chasing. In other words, we often have to make our own fun. And by “fun” I mean “beer.” Those words are interchangeable, right?

Beer is a big part of life for Alaskans. We hike with it, camp with it, boat with it, cook with it and pair it with foods like the stuffiest of sommeliers. We throw it monthly birthday parties like the First Tap events at Broken Tooth Brewing Co. (otherwise known as Bear Tooth Theatrepub and Moose’s Tooth Pub & Pizzeria), complete with national musical acts. We even occasionally do yoga with it (at Alpenglow Brewery, in the heart of Mountain View). In other words, we take it everywhere and we take it seriously.

Beers from the state’s biggest brewery, Alaskan Brewing Co. based in Juneau, might already be in your refrigerator if you live in one of the 25 states where it’s available.

With a steady line of signature brews — and some seasonal specialties that incorporate cranberries, raspberries, locally roasted coffee, white wheat from Alaska’s MatanuskaSusitna area and even Alaska spruce tips — it’s the most well-established of all the state’s breweries. Ubiquitous around Alaska, this long-running brewery is our Papa Beer, if you will (I’ll show myself out).

But Alaskan Brewing is just one of over 50 breweries, distilleries, meaderies and cideries in the state (for an excellent list, visit brewersguildofalaska.org). And while almost half of them are in Anchorage or within a short drive of our state’s largest city (including

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the relatively populous communities of Girdwood, Eagle River, Palmer and Wasilla), some of our most remote ports of call and tiniest towns are emphatically in on the brewing action (I’m looking at you, Gakona Brewery in Gakona, population 218).

The ever-expanding Denali Brewing Co. in Talkeetna (population 876) may be a small-town hero, but it’s now anything but small. Their four signature beers — Mother Ale, Chuli Stout, Single Engine Red and the

ever-popular Twister Creek IPA — as well as their seasonal brews, like Slow Down Brown and Flag Stop Milepost #3, are year-round mainstays of summer barbecues and winter bonfires around the state.

Their brewery is also home to the more recently established Alaska Cider Works, Alaska Meadery (which makes “Razzery,” a mead made with raspberries, sour cherries, and apples) and Denali Spirits (vodka, gin, whiskey, and “smoke” whiskey) because when

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(Denali Spirits’ canned cocktails, especially their blueberry mojito, are so popular in Anchorage that there is a Facebook page largely dedicated to tracking them down.)

But some breweries are even more remote.

Ports of call and island hopping here can be one way to get your fill of hops. Breweries can be found in Ketchikan (Bawden Street Brewing Co.), Kodiak (Kodiak Island Brewing Co. and Olds River Brewing), Homer (Homer Brewing Co. and Grace Ridge Brewing Co. for beer, and you can also check out Sweetgale Meadworks for

hard cider and locally sourced meads), Sitka (Harbor Mountain Brewing), Seward (Seward Brewing Co. and Stoney Creek Brewhouse), Valdez (Valdez Brewing and Growler Bay Brewing), and Skagway (Klondike Brewing Co. and Skagway Brewing Co.).

Of course, many trips to Alaska begin and end in Anchorage. And if, during your travels, you’ve foolishly left some beers untasted, you can make up for lost time in our state’s biggest city which boasts — let’s face it — a ridiculous number of exceptional craft breweries.

Downtown’s Glacier Brewhouse specializes in oak-aged English and American West-

Coast style beers, 13 of them, from blondes to stouts. Beneath the floor of the Brewhouse is a “Wall of Wood,” composed of casks of special release beers that are conditioned in oak barrels once used to age wine and bourbon.

The history of the oak imparts the “mother tongue” flavor characteristics, like vanilla and coconut, into these limited-edition brews. Opt for one of these unique beers or choose from their flagship choices like raspberry wheat, oatmeal stout, imperial blonde, Bavarian hefeweizen or a flight that includes them all.

Down the street is 49th State Brewing Co., expanding into Anchorage from its original location in Healy, at the edge of Denali

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Beer taps and whiskey bottles line the back of the bar at 49th State Brewing Co. PHOTO BY SHELBY LUM

National Park and Preserve. If you were unable to visit their flagship location, where you can sip beer while playing bocce or horseshoes on the lawn, you can catch up with them here. There are unique beer year-round choices like Smok, their smoked lager, as well as seasonal offerings like the Oktoberfest lager described as a “majestically malty marzen” or the creamy, slightly briny Thundershuck Alaska Oyster Stout, brewed with over two bushels of oysters from Naukati Bay. This location also boasts some of the best views in town and an expansive outdoor rooftop patio.

Just about all of the full-service restaurants in downtown Anchorage proudly feature some variety of Alaska beers. In the heart of downtown, Humpy’s Great Alaskan Alehouse prides itself on a huge selection of beers, both international and local. Tent City Taphouse offers a diverse and carefully curated list of rotating local brews including their house beer, Tent City Tangerine IPA brewed by Glacier Brewhouse. They recently hosted a Taste of the North five-course dinner in collaboration with 49th State Brewing; pairings included Neon Antler DIPA served with a truffle honey beet salad and Cabin Fever Spiced Imperial Brown served with crème brulée cheesecake.

If you have transportation around the city, treat yourself to a brewery tasting-room tour. Found in unassuming little side streets in the more industrial areas of Anchorage, some of our best beers can be sipped and savored at the source. Finding these funky little spots can feel like being invited to a secret party. And it’s a glimpse into Anchorage’s most authentic beer culture.

You might start by trying the Neighborhood IPA at Alpenglow Brewery. Called “the most diverse beer in Anchorage,” it celebrates its home neighborhood of Mountain View, which, according to census data and a widely seen CNN story, was at one point the most diverse census tract in the United States. (Second place, for context, is a neighborhood in Queens, New York) Or try one of their inventive

brews of the month like the Cerveza de los Muertos, a stout brewed with cinnamon, raw cacao nibs and chiles de Arbol or bird’s beak chilies.

In Midtown, Onsite Brewing Co. has unique small-batch brews in a funky relaxed environment. And while not an actual brewery, the quaint Café Amsterdam at the Metro Mall (530 E. Benson Blvd.) offers an interesting range of local and international beers in a Europeanstyle tasting room adjacent to their dining room. In the same stripmall is La Bodega, a local shop that sells craft beer and wine from all over the globe, plus sake, mead, cider and other craft liquor. (And by that is Wild Scoops, a fantastic ice cream shop — it’s truly one-stop shopping).

Farther south, King Street Brewing Co., Anchorage Brewing Co., Turnagain Brewing, Cynosure Brewing, Magnetic North Brewing Co. and Brewerks are all within a stone’s throw of one another. If you’re lucky, you might run into one of Anchorage’s popular food trucks parked outside, so you’ll have something to wash down with your flights. Depending on the day, you might find reindeer sausages, pad Thai, cheesesteaks or pupusas.

Nearby, Midnight Sun Brewing Co. is part tasting room and part community center, with First Friday art openings, a rotating menu of creative comfort food and an all-around cool, local vibe. My next-door neighbors frequent the brewery for their great brews (favorites include the Panty Peeler Belgian-style Tripel and the Pleasure Town IPA) and also to pick up free spent grain to feed to their chickens.

One of the newest and farthest south, while still in the Anchorage Bowl, is Raven’s Ring Brewing Co., which is a brewery/winery and meadery. From a traditional IPA to a Concorde grape wine called Grape Juice to a rotating vintner’s pour like sweet peach jalapeno mead, this ambitious operation is challenging the notion that you can’t please everyone.

Other Anchorage points of interest for non-hoppy but still homegrown adult beverages include Alaskan Spirits Distillery, Anchorage Distillery, Double Shovel Cider Co., Hive Mind Meadery and Two Seasons Meadery.

If your travels are over and you still haven’t had your fill, check out the Silver Gulch Brewing & Bottling Co. inside Terminal C at the Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport on your way out of town. An offshoot of the flagship Silver Gulch brewery in Fox, Alaska (about 10 miles north of Fairbanks), this location has a bar and restaurant as well as a retail shop carrying growlers of their own brews and those of other Alaskan brewers and distillers. Last-minute souvenir shopping never tasted so good.

Before you start your great northern beer safari, bear in mind that tasting rooms often have limited and varying hours so always doublecheck before planning a visit.

Whether your travels take you to fine-dining restaurants, low-key alehouses or even rustic cabins in the woods, make like an Alaskan and fuel your adventures with one of our beloved, home-grown brews.

When in Alaska, drink as the Alaskans do.

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EXPLORE A VIBRANT WORLD OF ARTS AND CULTURE IN ANCHORAGE

By K A T I E P E S Z N E C K E R

W

hether you’re culturally curious, into the arts or hung up on history, Anchorage’s arts and culture scene has you covered. Museums and galleries across town showcase perspectives, experiences, treasures and truths that offer insight into Alaska’s past, its contemporary landscape and the world beyond, as seen by artists, pioneers and others.

For many, the journey begins at the campus of the venerable Anchorage Museum (625 C St.), an easy walking distance for downtowndwelling tourists. Permanent installations include “Living Our Cultures, Sharing Our Heritage: The First People of Alaska.” This interactive gallery showcases Alaska Native history, arts and culture, with more than 600 objects from the Smithsonian, selected and

interpreted with counsel from Alaska Native groups.

From traditional clothing fashioned from skins and furs, intricate beadwork and baskets, and hand tools dating to long-ago times, it’s an impressive collection highlighting the resiliency, originality and beauty of Alaska Native cultures.

The Alaska Exhibition highlights the ingenuity, technology and connection to place that have allowed Alaskans to thrive, touching on areas such as aviation exploration, the military in Alaska, and significant industries such as mining and oil. Nearby, the Art of the North exhibit populates impressive gallery bays with sculptures, videos, photography and paintings, including the timeless works of Sydney Laurence, Alaska’s most-loved romantic landscape artist.

Current exhibits are featured on the museum’s website. Two that run through Sept.

3 are “Visitations: From Greenland to Iceland to Alaska in Borderless Arctic Seas,” by Bryndís Snæbjörnsdóttir and Mark Wilson,

which explores how polar bears interact with humans in times of climate change; and “Pass the Mic,” which celebrates contemporary Alaska musicians and sound artists, inviting interactive participation in making and listening to the sounds and songs in Alaska today.

Other featured exhibits in summer 2023 include “Alaska Biennial,” which celebrates place through the lens of contemporary art.

The “Black in Alaska” exhibit is the result of a collaboration between the Rasmuson Foundation and Black leaders to discuss critical issues to the Black community in Alaska.

The museum store sells unique items, with proceeds benefiting educational and public programs and exhibitions; items are also available for purchase online. A cafe in the atrium sells coffee, tea and snacks.

On summer Wednesdays, don’t miss the museum’s popular Lunch on the Lawn for live music and family activities in a beautiful green space. Included are fun food trucks, live

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For cultural tourism devoted to Alaska’s Indigenous first peoples, the Alaska Native Heritage Center (8800 Heritage Center Drive) offers an encompassing celebration of the history and experience of Alaska Natives.

The Native Heritage Center is an indoor and outdoor facility that covers some 26 scenic acres, located northwest of the Glenn Highway and Muldoon Road. Its largely Alaska Native staff educates visitors about the enduring legacy of Alaska Natives, including their resiliency, unique traditions and shared experiences. It includes exhibits, demonstrations, a cafe and gift shop.

Many visitors will be surprised by Alaska’s broad range of Native cultures and traditions, and the Heritage Center presents an extraordinary chance to see it all in one place. Situated alongside a picturesque lake, the center includes recreated village sites, a glimpse into more traditional ways of life that visitors can freely explore.

The Heritage Center reopens for summer season on May 17, 2023, and is open seven days a week through summer.

The Anchorage Museum and the Alaska Native Heritage Center are the best-known of their kind in the region, but many other cultural centers and museums address both broad topics and niche interests.

Downtown Anchorage, visitors will find the Fraternal Order of the Alaska State Troopers Alaska Law Enforcement Museum (245 W. Fifth Ave., Suite 113). Admission is $5, or $3 for military, law enforcement, youth and seniors, and the museum is open 10 a.m.-4 p.m. weekdays.

This specialty museum houses the state’s only collection of historical law enforcement memorabilia, including an authentically restored 1952 Hudson Hornet automobile. The troopers museum also sports antique radios, handcuffs and leg irons, early wiretapping equipment, old photographs and documents

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and Alaska policing uniforms. Exhibits showcase women in Alaska law enforcement and one room contains a remarkable collection of law enforcement patches. There’s even a gift shop with Alaska State Troopers memorabilia and souvenirs.

Also downtown is the Oscar Anderson House, a 1915 home in storied Bootleggers Cove that was home to the 18th settler to arrive in “Tent City.” The charming cottage now surrounded by a park and looking out across the waters west of Anchorage is a National Trust for Historic Preservation “Distinctive Destination.” For current hours, check its website.

On Anchorage’s east side, the Alaska Museum of Science and Nature (201 N. Bragaw St.) is a hidden gem showcasing the unique science of Alaska, from prehistoric times to present. The museum is designed to take visitors of all ages on a learning adventure exploring Alaska’s unique geological, cultural and ecological background. The museum is open from 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Thursday to Saturday.

Another unique stop from Anchorage’s roster of museums is the Alaska Aviation Museum (4721 Aircraft Drive), on the shores of Lake Hood Seaplane Base west of Midtown Anchorage, billed as the busiest seaplane base in the world. In and of itself, Lake Hood is worth a stop and photo op, or even a walking tour around the lake complex to enjoy watching landings and takeoffs and photograph its colorful floatplanes.

The Aviation Museum is among Anchorage’s top attractions, with artifacts and relics of Alaska’s remarkable air travel history that will delight aviation buffs. There are more than two dozen vintage aircraft on display in four hangars, and also outdoor exhibits. The Aviation Museum is open 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday to Friday, noon to 5 p.m.

Saturday, closed Sunday; entry is $17.50 for adults, $14.50 for seniors and veterans, $10.50 for children 3-13, and $48 for a family of up to

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two adults and three children.

And before leaving Alaska, there are more arts and culture opportunities to be found at the Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport.

First, on the lower level is the Alaska Sports Hall of Fame. This ever-growing exhibit celebrates Alaska athletes, sporting events and moments, paying homage to some of the state’s greats.

A few names will ring bells with visitors from the Lower 48, like cross-country skiing Olympic gold medalist Kikkan Randall and NBA player Mario Chalmers. Inductees offer interesting peeks into Alaska’s unique sports culture and Arctic pursuits. The Hall of Fame celebrates dog mushing feats, mountain climbing and other athletic advocacy, and the lovely hall of portraits include compelling captions and context.

The main airport past security features a bronze, life-size statue of the late U.S. Sen. Ted Stevens, for whom the airport is named.

The statue depicts “Uncle Ted,” as Alaskans fondly called him, seated on a bench with an arm outstretched, as though midsentence, making a point. It’s a point of interest for fans of Alaska politics and history, in which Stevens was pivotal for decades.

Finally, the airport offers a fine display of Alaska Native art. The “Art in Public Places” gallery covers two areas, with the main collection on the C Concourse mezzanine level, and additional light-sensitive pieces in the Northern Lights Corridor that connects the main terminal to rental car and railroad facilities. It’s a last chance for visitors to take in beautiful creations unique to the 49th state before their Last Frontier adventure draws to a close.

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The city of Kodiak.

PHOTO BY LOREN HOLMES

KODIAK AND THE ALASKA PANHANDLE: LUSH GREEN LANDSCAPES ARE JUST THE BEGINNING

By B A I L E Y B E R G

J

ust a taste of Kodiak’s island life or the summer hustle of the fishing towns of Southeast Alaska leave most people wanting more. With busy fishing fleets, thriving art and food scenes, vibrant Native communities and quirky little museums, it’s hard not to fall deeply, madly in love with Alaska’s largest island and coastal communities.

You can drive to a few towns in Southeast, but those road trips require many, many miles. For a first visit, your best bet is to travel by boat or plane. (Note: Travel by boat has become more complicated lately due to the beleaguered state of Alaska’s ferry system; if you’re hoping to travel the Alaska Marine Highway 48

System, be sure to check updates at dot.alaska.gov/amhs.)

One word of advice — pack some waterproof layers. Known as the Alaska Panhandle, Southeast Alaska is part of the world’s largest temperate rainforest. There’s a reason for all that lush greenery you’ll see as you travel through. Ketchikan normally gets just under 23 inches of rain between June and August — but some years, it blows that average out of the, um, water. From May to August 2001, Ketchikan residents (grudgingly) welcomed 57.12 inches of rain to town.

residents on the island. Hike the local trails. Launch a kayak or stand-up paddleboard in Anton Larsen Bay. Keep watch for whales or, often just as thrilling, puffins speeding by. Drive out Anton Larsen Bay Road to see the island’s famed wild bison.

(Just slow down as you approach them. You don’t want to startle a herd of something so sizable.)

Dig into Kodiak’s history at the

Alutiiq Museum — home to more than 250,000 artifacts, recordings and documents — or the Kodiak History Museum (formerly known as the Baranov Museum).

Get ideas for the next day’s adventures over a brew at Kodiak Island Brewing Co.

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KODIAK Famous for its sizable namesake brown bears, Kodiak should be just as well known to outsiders for its ever-so-green landscape — its nickname is the Emerald Isle. Between Kodiak City and the villages, there are around 13,000 year-round

ALASKA — V I S I T O R S ’ G U I D E • 2 0 2 3

On special weekends during the summer season, the White Pass and Yukon Railroad will pick up hikers at Bennett at the northern terminus of the trail and bring them down White Pass back to Skagway.

PHOTO BY RICHARD J. MURPHY

the insane sunsets that take over the entire sky. Maybe it’s just the really good coffee at the local bookstore. Whichever “it” of Sitka grabs you, the place sticks with visitors forever. Ignore the rain and keep on paddling during a guided kayak trip around the islands off Sitka.

Walk the pathways and take time at each totem pole at Sitka National Historical Park. The park, where Russians invaded and fought the Tlingit people, offers an immersion course in the Russian occupation of the town.

Sitka served as the capital of Russian America from 1808 until Alaska became part of the United States 59 years later. Open the drawers in the exhibition space of the Sheldon Jackson Museum — first opened in 1887 — to see antique children’s toys, jewelry and more beautiful artifacts. It’s quite the intimate and peaceful museum experience. Classical music fans would do well to time their visit to the annual Sitka Summer Music Festival (May 31-June 25), when some of the world’s best chamber music groups perform. For a locally made treasure, head straight to the Island Arts Gallery, a co-op run by 24 of the town’s artists.

KETCHIKAN Ketchikan tends to be all hustle and bustle in the summer when cruise ships are in, but there’s more to the town than just that.

Ketchikan has one of Southeast Alaska’s most colorful art scenes.

Get the lowdown on who creates what on the Ketchikan Area Arts and Humanities Council site. The city’s best-known artist, Ray Troll, is the talent behind the punny T-shirts you’ll see everywhere from airport gift shops to festivals across the state. Check out Troll’s work, along with pieces by Evon Zerbetz and many of Ketchikan’s other fine artists, at the Soho Coho art gallery (5 Creek St.). But the art goes on … from the docks to the school buildings, the island community celebrates local artists at every turn. Turn a walk around town into a public art treasure hunt. Or, for art that’s equal parts craftsmanship and storytelling, visit the Totem Heritage Center — or just keep your eyes open for some of the many, many totem poles around town. Prefer learning about the, ahem, saucier side of olden times? Stop in at Dolly’s House Museum (24 Creek St.) to learn about Ketchikan’s Prohibitionera red light district. Then, take a flight trip out to Misty Fjords National Monument for the chance to kayak among whales.

SKAGWAY

Ketchikan artist Ray Troll paints a salmon mural.

PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

This is Klondike Gold Rush territory, flat out. Skagway has its modern bits — Glacial Smoothies & Espresso, the breweries Skagway Brewing Co. and Klondike Brewing Co. and gift shops that sell things that aren’t made in Alaska — but at its core, it’s a town-sized Gold Rush museum. Home of the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park, visitors intent on camping should consider staking their tents in the former town of Dyea, home to ruins and cemeteries that include gravesites of many a person who once moved to the area to strike it rich. Of course, there’s plenty more to explore here, with trails to hike and, after a helicopter ride out, glaciers to dog sled on. One of the only Southeast towns accessible by road (via the Klondike Highway), visitors can also get to town by air, ferry or cruise ship.

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A whitewater kayaker paddles down Mineral Creek in Valdez.

PHOTO BY ERIK HILL

VALDEZ: THERE ARE ENDLESS OPTIONS AT THE END OF THE ROAD

By K A T I E P E S Z N E C K E R

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aldez is an end-of-the-road town teeming with endless adventure, a sure bet for summertime fun where visitors will delight in its beauty, history and recreation.

Located at the head of a deep fjord in eastern Prince William Sound, Valdez is a 300-mile drive from Anchorage, treating motorists to boundless views of mountains, wildlife, waterfalls and more.

While the road route is impressive, travelers can alternatively venture by Alaska Marine Highway System ferry. Drive an hour south

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of Anchorage to Whittier, and enjoy front-row views of beautiful Prince William Sound.

In many ways, Valdez delights with small-town charm. There is one post office and one main grocery store. Many residents work for or in connection to the terminus of the historic Trans-Alaska Pipeline System, visible across Port Valdez. The town is simply arranged and easy to navigate, with walkable, open roads and frequent and sweeping views of the surrounding mountains that beckon the daring to backcountry adventurers.

For water-based play, it’s easy access to a glittering port that fi lls with fishermen, shrimpers, kayakers and sightseers, especially on sunny days. A number of hotels, camping and RV options afford choices when booking overnight accommodations.

In the early 1900s, Valdez enjoyed prosperous Gold Rush-era roots,

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roots, but its landscape changed forever when the 1964 Good Friday Earthquake triggered a tsunami that caused the deaths of 32 residents and the demise of the town as they knew it. History buffs can visit the original Valdez townsite today.

The old site is just a few miles east of modern Valdez, now a quiet, natural place of remembrance, marked with signage and a seaside pioneer cemetery. Salvageable buildings were moved to the town’s current location. Download a self-guided walking tour (valdezmuseum.org) to view those buildings that survived the quake.

The Valdez Museum and Historical Archive showcases the town’s vibrant history, from its earliest Alaska Native settlers to its prospector days to its modern form. Another option, the Maxine & Jesse Whitney Museum, boasts one of the largest collection of Alaska Native art and artifacts in the world. Check the websites for operating hours.

Valdez boasts a satisfying assortment of restaurants. The Fat Mermaid on North Harbor Drive offers sensational pizza and a full bar with occasional live music and an outdoor dining area. A cluster of food trucks also on North Harbor Drive offer delicious variety, among them local favorites Nat Shack, with artisan tacos and Cal-Mex fare; and Aunty Yum Yum’s has bountiful and authentic Thai cuisine.

Also by the harbor is The Roadside Potatohead, open May 1 to Sept.

15. This corner-spot restaurant has excellent beer and wine options and al fresco patio dining, plus fantastic views of anglers hauling in the daily catch.

Valdez visitors have endless opportunities to hike, bike, boat, kayak, fish and more. The Valdez vicinity serves as a jumping-off point for countless remarkable hikes and trails, including the Dock Point Trail, Gold Creek Trail, the Valdez Glacier area for hikes and kayaking, and Mineral Creek, which cuts deep into the folds of the surrounding mountains toward old mining territory.

Alaska Guide Co. offers an array of guided excursions, whether you want to paddle, ice climb, rock climb, hike, backpack or mountain bike. Valdez Stay and Play offers adventures like glacier tours and electric bike rentals. Kayak outfits Anadyr Adventures and Pangea are also reputable for safe, unforgettable, fully outfitted experiences.

For a more relaxing experience, try a sightseeing charter: Stan Stephens Glacier and Wildlife Cruises offers far-ranging day cruises aboard smooth-sailing catamarans. Ventures range from 6 to 7.5 hours. The comfortable ships are captained by knowledgeable crews who will delight passengers with information about the history, wildlife and landscapes of the area.

While a trip out into Prince William Sound will stun, wildlife lovers have plenty of opportunity in and around town too. Watch harbor waters for lolling otters or the occasional orca, and look up for bald eagles. It’s worth a drive around Port Valdez to Allison Point for a chance to see black bears pawing waters near the hatchery for pink salmon.

For souvenirs commemorating your Valdez visit, there are options.

The Prospector (200 Egan Drive) remains the go-to spot for outdoor gear, fishing and hunting wares, and brand-name outdoor clothing.

The Salty Lupine (130 Meals Ave.) features stylish and trendy Valdezbranded clothing and gifts. The Valdez Art Co-Op (122 Kobuk Drive) sells adorable wares by local artists. And on the waterfront, The Painted Moose is an excellent spot for gifts and trinkets.

To drink and dress like a local, visit Valdez Brewing, buy a pint of local beer and a stylish branded hoodie, and enjoy the industrial-chic taproom or the spacious outdoor patio. Valdez Brewing is one of two breweries in town. The second is Growler Bay Brewing Co. At press time, its hours of operation were 4-8 p.m. every Saturday.

Nasturtiums brighten the scene at Valdez harbor.

PHOTO BY ERIK HILL

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Low clouds hug the mountains at Mendenhall Lake near the Mendenhall Glacier Visitors Center in Juneau.

PHOTO BY MARC LESTER

IT’S CAPITAL: THE BEST PLACES TO EAT, SIGHTSEE, HIKE AND MORE IN JUNEAU

By M O L L I E B A R N E S

J

uneau is flanked by white snowcapped mountains, fields of blue ice, verdant green forests and frigid turquoise waters, making it the perfect town for travelers who love cozy small-town vibes, as well as those who seek extreme outdoor adventures in nature. Long the land inhabited by the Tlingit, Haida and Tsimshian people, the capital city of Alaska got its Western name and infrastructure during the Gold Rush. This waterfront town is an outdoor enthusiast’s haven, and boasts that it has more miles of trails and mining tunnels than road (of which there are just 190).

Make sure you pack your rain gear, as this town of 32,000 gets 70 inches of rain a year, and around 235 days of precipitation. But no matter the forecast, locals and travelers alike will be out enjoying nature. As the Scandinavians say, “There is no bad weather, only bad clothes.”

The absolute must-see for most travelers is the Mendenhall Glacier.

There are many ways to see the glacier, depending on your level of comfort. The West Glacier Trail is by far one of the best bangs for your buck. While it includes a little bit of scrambling (up a waterfall, for example), the payoff is worth far more than it will cost you to get there.

The trail is 3.5 miles out and back, and brings you right up to the face of the glacier. For less experienced hikers, Above and Beyond Alaska offers guided hiking tours.

For a more family-friendly/accessible option, the Nugget Falls Trail 52

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brings you around the other side of the Mendenhall Lake directly to a massive waterfall with views of the glacier from a bit farther away. (The short, informational video in the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center is the cheapest tour of Juneau you’ll get.)

Liquid Alaska offers canoe tours that go across the lake to bring you to the face of the glacier, getting you closer to the ice. Or, if you’re feeling flush, you can charter a helicopter through Northstar, Coastal or Temsco Helicopters for a flightseeing tour that will land you on the glacier (tours cost $300 or more). Northstar’s Extended Helicopter Glacier Trek is the most adventurous tour for thrill seekers who want to maximize their time on the glacier, learn basic ice climbing techniques and explore more territory than the standard glacier trek tours.

If you’re looking for a more relaxing way than hiking to sightsee and get up close to a glacier, try a full-day boat trip to Tracy Arm Fjord with Allen Marine. For $179, this seven-hour tour is an exceptional value and unforgettable experience. Enjoy cruising through a steep fjord, usually seeing whales, bears, eagles, harbor seals along the way, and culminating at one of the Sawyer Glaciers, which are often actively calving. Even if it’s cloudy or rainy, this trip is sure to be memorable and enjoyable — the glacier can look more blue when it’s overcast. If you’re looking for a shorter tour, several other companies offer two- to three-hour whale watching or city tours during the summer cruise ship season (check out Juneau Tours & Whale Watch and Allen Marine for options). If you’re seeking more water adventures, you’d be remiss not to try spotting whales and other wildlife as you ocean kayak in the Channel Islands State Marine Park on Above and Beyond Alaska’s Kayaking with Humpback Whales tour.

If you’re more of a plant lover than animal lover, check out the upside-down tree gardens at Glacier Gardens. They also offer tours up the mountain in small trams during the summer season. A good place to see fireweed is along Point Bridget Trail. The drive out the road to this trail also makes for great views of the looming Chilkat Mountains.

Cycling enthusiasts will enjoy Cycle Alaska’s 8.5-mile biking tour that stops at local breweries.

Another top-notch Juneau experience is cabin camping. You can

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A pedestrian walks the Gold Creek Flume Trail on a soggy morning in Juneau.

PHOTO BY MARC LESTER

rent cabins online; however, weekends can generally get booked up to six months in advance, so make sure to book far ahead of time. Most public cabins are in the backcountry and require hiking your gear out.

However, there are some private cabins that can be rented that are more accessible, such as those at the Shrine of St. Therese or on Airbnb.

Nights at Eaglecrest Ski Resort’s newest cabin, Hilda Dam, during the winter, and a city cabin, Amalga, are among the most coveted reservations in town.

Good family activities include walking along Sandy Beach on Douglas Island. Ruins from the old mine that collapsed there give the beach a historic vibe, and informational signs along the way entertain and inform little ones. The Mount Roberts Tram usually runs during the summer cruise season. Families can also rent strollers and other baby travel necessities like hiking backpacks, carseats and highchairs from Gear Up Baby.

Here are some quick favorites if you’re looking for places to eat, drink, and shop: BEST VALUE BREAKFAST: Donna’s Restaurant.

BEST FOOD IN THE MENDENHALL VALLEY: Zerelda’s Bistro (check their Instagram for specials).

BEST FOOD DOWNTOWN: In Bocca Al Lupo (the chef specials are where it’s at; chef Beau Schooler was recently nominated as a James Beard Award semifinalist).

BEST LIVE ENTERTAINMENT: Crystal Saloon (visit their website for full list of shows) BEST FOOD ON DOUGLAS ISLAND: The Island Pub (try the salmon dip).

BEST FAMILY DINING: The Hangar on the Wharf (can’t go wrong with anything with the halibut, great views of seaplanes taking off during the summer).

BEST TACOS: Deckhand Dave’s (only open in summer).

BEST ICE CREAM: Gelato by the pint from In Bocca Al Lupo.

BEST BAR: Alaskan Hotel & Bar (especially on open mic nights or live music nights, check their Instagram for updates).

BEST COCKTAILS: Amalga Distillery (early hours — closes at 8 p.m.), The Narrows (late night).

BEST CRAFT BREWERY: Barnaby Brewing Co. BEST NEW RESTAURANT: Alaskan Brewing Public House BEST PLACE TO DRINK WITH KIDS: Forbidden Peak Brewery.

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BEST DRUNK FOOD: Pel’mini’s (if you’re not drunk, try them anyway — in Juneau, these dumplings topped with butter, curry, cilantro, Sriracha and sour cream are a staple).

BEST PEOPLE WATCHING: Triangle Club Bar and the downtown cruise ship docks.

BEST PLACE TO NURSE A HANGOVER WITH SALTY POPCORN AND A BLOODY MARY: Red Dog Saloon (also best kitschy decor).

BEST COFFEE: The Grind Coffee Co. BEST SHOPPING: Resolute Boutique, Treetop Tees.

BEST FREE SAMPLES: Free smoked salmon from Taku.

BEST CHEAP SOUVENIRS: Alaska Shirt Company.

BEST INSTAGRAM PHOTO OPS: The Whale Project, the flower wallpaper at Amalga Distillery, Nugget Falls, holding crab legs at Tracy’s Crab Shack, atop the platforms on the top of the Mount Roberts Tram.

BEST SOUVENIRS: Whale tail necklaces from various downtown jewelry stores, whale tail salad tossers, Tlingit silver bracelets from Mt. Juneau Trading Post and others, kitschy matching shirts from the Alaska Shirt Co., Alaskan Brewing Company sweatshirts, smoked salmon from Taku Store, a Ray Troll “Spawn Till You Die” shirt.

BEST PLACE TO CATCH A SUNSET WHEN IT’S SUNNY: Bonfire on the Outer Point Beach on North Douglas or Auke Recreation Area.

MOST ADVENTUROUS TOUR TO DO WITH KIDS: Alpine Zipline Adventure with Kawanti Adventures BEST ACTIVITY TO DO WITH KIDS WHEN IT’S RAINING: Alaska State Museum BEST FOOD WHEN YOU’RE COLD FROM WALKING AROUND IN THE RAIN: Old Friend Noodle Soup from Lemon Tree Cafe.

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Water gushes down Nugget Falls as visitors make a short hike to the cataract adjacent to Mendenhall Glacier in Juneau.

PHOTO BY ERIK HILL

IN WINTER OR SUMMER, FAIRBANKS IS A TOWN OF SPLENDID EXTREMES

By D A V I D J A M E S

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ocated near the geographic center of the state, Fairbanks is Alaska’s year-round tourism destination. Established along the Chena River in 1901, it originally served prospectors working outlying gold claims. In the 12 decades since, the city has grown to include a university and two military bases, and has become the commercial hub of Interior Alaska.

The Fairbanks Convention and Visitors Bureau is the first stop for information, and has welcome centers along the riverfront, both downtown and in the nearby Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitors Center. The Thompson Center provides an excellent introduction to the history and culture of Interior Alaska’s original inhabitants, the Athabascan people.

Downtown has many shops, restaurants and events. Often on summer evenings, the Golden Heart Plaza is brimming with live music from local performers. And from there, it’s a short stroll to nearby Pioneer Park, which offers fun for the whole family, with playground equipment, historic buildings, a train ride, restaurants, gift shops, museums and more.

Fairbanks is the site of several summer festivals where residents and visitors enjoy being outdoors during the long daylight hours. The annual Midnight Sun Festival, hosted by the Downtown Association, takes place in the city’s downtown center on Saturday, June 24. The large outdoor gathering includes live music, vendors and activities.

The weeklong Golden Days celebration, the largest summer event in Fairbanks, includes a variety of events and culminates downtown on July 15 with a parade, street fair, rubber ducky race on the Chena River and more. Finally, the Tanana Valley State Fair runs from July 28 to Aug. 6 this year and offers fairgoers a chance to watch livestock shows, take in live music, wander through commercial exhibits and let the kids go on some rides, all while staying fueled up on the endless food options.

Museums are scattered throughout town, including the Museum of the North on the university campus, which holds one of the state’s premier collections of Alaska and Arctic artifacts. The Fairbanks Community Museum focuses on city history. Car buffs will motor toward the Fountainhead Antique Auto Museum. Summer visitors wanting a taste of winter can experience 20-below temperatures at the Ice Museum. And restless young ones will enjoy a stop at the Fairbanks Children’s Museum.

Fairbanks has a lively, close-knit and very supportive arts community, with several galleries open year round displaying the work of local artists. For those seeking a deeper knowledge of Alaska and its culture, its people and its history, the secondhand bookstore ForgetMe-Not Books — operated by and benefiting the Literacy Council of Alaska — always has a large selection of Alaska-related books, some quite rare, along with plenty of other volumes on all topics.

Much of Fairbanks’ growth has been driven by resource extraction.

A tour of Gold Dredge 8 north of town gives visitors a taste of the rich gold mining history of Fairbanks, while the nearby Trans-Alaska Pipeline Viewpoint lets people walk right up to one of the world’s engineering marvels.

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Soak up some sun on or off the water in Fairbanks.

PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

For a taste of nature, Creamer’s Field Migratory Waterfowl Refuge, located on the north side of town, offers birding and wildlife viewing as well as miles of walking trails. The Large Animal Research Station on the north part of the University of Alaska Fairbanks campus allows visitors a close look at musk oxen.

Sportspersons looking to go fishing or hunting first need to obtain the proper license from the Alaska Department of Fish and Game. The department also has advice for obtaining a licensed and qualified guide to help arrange transportation, supplies, and other needs to make the experience complete.

For outdoor recreation, hiking and/or mountain biking trails can be found on the UAF campus, at the nearby Birch Hill Recreation Area, in the Chena River State Recreation Area east of town and elsewhere.

Trails on Birch Hill and campus are groomed for skiers when the snow arrives. The Chena River winds through downtown and is popular with paddlers. Mountain bikes, canoes and kayaks can be rented from several establishments, and skis and fat bikes can be rented in winter.

The Fairbanks Hiking Club, Fairbanks Cycle Club, Fairbanks Paddlers and Running Club North can be contacted for information. All four welcome out-of-town guests to their events.

ATVs and snowmachines can be rented for excursions on the vast network of public multiple-use trails that extend in all directions beyond Fairbanks. Check with rental companies for information on accessing the best trails.

For getaways, Denali National Park is just a two-hour drive south, and the Arctic Circle about five hours north. The Riverboat Discovery Tour provides the opportunity to slip out of town and head down the Chena and Tanana rivers via sternwheeler.

The nearby town of North Pole is home to the Santa Claus House, where it’s Christmas all year. A bit farther down the road is the Chena Lake Recreation Area. Open all year, it’s popular in summer with paddlers, cyclists, walkers and swimmers, and overnight visitors at one

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of the 45 campsites. In winter, it’s a nearby destination for snowmachining, skiing, fattire biking, ice fishing and more. Wildlife viewing can be enjoyed during any season.

Many races are available for those seeking a workout. This year’s Midnight Sun Run will be held on June 24 at 10 p.m. Held annually on the Saturday night closest to summer solstice, the race often attracts as many as 3,000 participants for a 10-K dash under the perpetual daylight of summer. In September, the Equinox Marathon, starting and finishing at the university, is one of the most grueling marathon courses in North America. It features over 3,000 feet of climbing and descending along a route that is largely set on trails and dirt roads, and that offers a spectacular view of the Alaska Range from the top of Ester Dome — if the skies are clear. Some years it snows on race day, so be prepared for anything. This year, the race is on Sept. 17. There will be a full marathon as well as a half, but no relay.

Restaurants for all tastes and budgets abound, including a remarkable number of very good Thai restaurants. And later, visitors can kick back at one of the growing number of breweries and distilleries.

FAIRBANKS IN WINTER Winters bring icy temperatures dipping to minus-40 or lower, and visitors should come prepared. But usually it’s nowhere near this severe. And with the dry climate and minimal wind, zero in Fairbanks can feel warmer than 30 above in Anchorage. Winter solstice brings just 3 hours and 41 minutes of direct sunlight, but the low-lying sun envelops the town and hills in a beautiful pink and golden glow. By late January, the light is back.

December is when the darkness reaches its zenith, and the season is marked by numerous events downtown, leading up to the solstice itself, Dec. 21, when an evening festival culminates with a fireworks show welcoming back the light. Ten days later, on New Year’s Eve, fireworks again illuminate the sky, this time from the West Ridge of the UAF campus.

Fairbanks is the ideal location for aurora viewing, and a number of local businesses cater to this growing clientele. It also offers some of the best winter recreational opportunities in Alaska. Snowmobile tours are gaining in popularity, and several guides offer them, both near town and further afield.

Dog sled tours are available for those wanting to experience mushing.

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For winter athletes, the Chena River to Ridge Race offers 25- and 50-mile routes for skiers, fat bikers and runners every March, while the White Mountains 100 presents those same groups with a challenging 100-mile trip though the White Mountains National Recreation Area about an hour north of town.

Those with more modest ambitions can rent fat bikes for winter excursions on the trails in Goldstream Valley, and cross country skis for the trails on Birch Hill and the university campus. Downhill ski runs can be found on Birch Hill and Moose Mountain.

Finally, no visit to Fairbanks is complete without a trip to Chena Hot Springs Resort, 56 miles east of town. While open year round, winter is the best time to climb into the outdoor pools. The hot water keeps bathers comfortable even as air temperatures drop below zero, snow and ice sweep upward from the pool edges, and the northern lights dance in the sky. It’s the quintessential Fairbanks experience, and one of the reasons why many residents consider winter in Fairbanks the best season of all.

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There’s no knowing what kind of friendly faces you’ll find in the Matanuska-Susitna Borough.

PHOTO BY BILL ROTH

VISIT MAT-SU AND GET A TASTE OF EVERYTHING THAT’S MAGIC ABOUT ALASKA

By A L L I H A R V E Y

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valley floor.

rive less than an hour north of Anchorage and the landscape changes dramatically as you enter the Matanuska-Susitna region. The view opens up to showcase dramatic peaks rising steeply from a vast, flat

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gifts

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This is only the beginning. At 25,000 square miles, this region is nearly the size of West Virginia. The attractions in the area are varied and surprising; you will find everything from world-class and accessible wilderness experiences, historic sites and museums, to delicious and uniquely Alaskan eats.

The charms of Mat-Su start even before its official boundary: in Eagle River (still technically inside the Municipality of Anchorage).

Be like a local on a sunny Saturday and hike up Mount Baldy, a short, steep climb to above treeline and terrific views. You’ll earn your lunch (and Schooner-sized signature beer) at Pizza Man, chased by a quick

Sunbathers at Newcomb Park wade in Wasilla Lake during a sunny day.

PHOTO BY BILL ROTH

pick-me-up from the well-loved, adorable coffee shop Jitters. Not quite ready to leave the area? Head a little farther north on the Glenn Highway and take the exit to Eklutna Lake.

Rent kayaks for the day and paddle out on this pristine, glacial lake that supplies Anchorage its drinking water.

Next stop: Palmer. You could spend an afternoon or a lifetime here and have plenty to do. Downtown is postcard-picturesque with breathtaking mountain views. Park the car and take a walk. Check out the Palmer Museum of History and Art for behind-thescenes scoop on the area and local guidance; duck into the well-loved independent Fireside Books; and fuel up at delicious and superbly run Turkey Red restaurant. Top off your visit with a flight at 203 Kombucha, a modern and community-minded kombuchery. Need to stretch your legs? Options range from hiking the well-loved local Butte, to more strenuous hiking on Lazy Mountain. On your way out of town, pay a visit to the Musk Ox Farm to learn firsthand about this unique and iconic Arctic creature from knowledgeable guides.

Heading north, don’t miss historic Hatcher Pass. Hatcher Pass Road winds 12 miles from downtown Palmer and over 3,000 feet up into the Talkeetna mountains, with incredible views at every turn. Learn about the area’s mining history firsthand by visiting

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Tourists pass by Nagley’s Store in Talkeetna in August 2016. The store was previously named B & K Trading Company.

PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

the unique museum set right in the alpine at Independence Mine State Historic Park; take a hike and see remnants from perilous gold mining operations amidst the jaw-dropping tundra scenery. If an afternoon visit isn’t enough, stay over at Hatcher Pass Lodge in one of the adorable A-frame cabins. Or just grab a bite in the cozy cafe with stellar views.

Wasilla gets a bad rap for its most prominent feature: big box stores. Locals know there’s much more just off the beaten path. Pay a visit to the Wasilla Museum and Visitors Center to orient yourself. Venture down Knik-Goose Bay Road to the Knik Museum, sited at what was once the most populated community along Cook Inlet. Golf much? Keep driving, and tee off at Settlers Bay Golf Course. Back in the core of Wasilla, don’t miss a meal at the creative Basil Ginger restaurant. Take advantage of convenient

one-stop-shopping by fueling up the car and getting groceries before continuing north.

Talkeetna is as charming and quirky as Alaska towns come. The walkable downtown is a scene from the TV show “Northern Exposure” (if it were actually filmed in Alaska). The journey down the 14-mile spur road to town from the main highway is long because there’s so much to see. Inventive and tasty Denali Brewing Co. cannot be missed; ditto with Flying Squirrel Bakery Cafe, a standalone gem tucked away in the forest.

Alaska Wild Harvest offers tours and tastings in its birch syrup production facility, and a wonderful gift shop. Approaching town, the Denali view on a clear day is worth the entire trek. A visit to Talkeetna Roadhouse is a must — either to stay or to feast, or both.

Visit Dancing Leaf Gallery for a flavor of well-curated local art and craft. Want to get a

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closer look at “the Great One” (the Koyukon Athabascan meaning of Denali)? Check out K2 Aviation for flightseeing tours.

Finally, push the boundary of the Mat-Su region and your physical ability by paying a visit to Denali State Park. No, this isn’t the national park and you won’t actually summit The Mountain. But you’ll still experience the thrilling and wild Alaska outdoors with an overnight at K’esugi Ken Campground, and a hike up the slow but steadily uphill Curry Ridge trail that has stellar and consistent Denali views.

If there’s one region in Alaska with a little taste of everything magic about the state, it’s Mat-Su. Fuel up, power down, explore and enjoy all that you’ll find in this amazing corner of the world.

Independence Day fireworks in Seward shortly after midnight.

PHOTO BY LOREN HOLMES

TIPS FOR PLANNING AN EPIC SEWARD HIGHWAY ROAD TRIP

By K A T I E P E S Z N E C K E R

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nchorage visitors who want to see sights beyond the city’s confines can find a scenic escape via the Seward Highway, a spectacular route with a surprising number of diversions.

This renowned 125-mile roadway runs south from Anchorage, alongside a narrow waterway called Turnagain Arm. The highway is flanked by the dramatic Chugach and Kenai Mountains, where ancient glaciers wink through summertime greenery. Passing small bedroom communities, rustic roadhouses and pristine alpine lakes, the highway terminates in Seward, on the edge of Resurrection Bay. The time-pressed traveler could make it to Seward and back in one long, full day, logging five-plus hours of road travel alone. But overnighting in Seward will offer a more enjoyable and leisurely experience, allowing for lingering stops to appreciate the Alaska scenery and character, history and dining offered by small towns along the way.

GIRDWOOD About 45 minutes south of Anchorage, Girdwood is a laid-back ski town that relocated inland a few miles from the highway after the 1964 Good Friday Earthquake.

For Alaskans and visitors alike, Girdwood is a recreation mecca, with a charming collection of memorable restaurants, art galleries, ski chalets and condos. Winter slopes and ski lifts transform to host downhill mountain biking come summer. Paved paths thread throughout town, offering an opportunity to take in scenery at a slow pace.

For hikers, the user-friendly Winner Creek Trail begins just behind the picturesque Hotel Alyeska. For a challenge, tackle the south end of the 21-mile Crow Pass Trail, which connects Girdwood to Eagle River’s outskirts north of Anchorage. The first few miles of the Girdwood end of the trail wind upward from Girdwood, with breathtaking views of glaciers, jagged mountaintops and remnants of long-gone gold mining efforts.

Girdwood’s dining options are impressively plentiful. Begin at a local icon, The Bake Shop (194 Olympic Mountain Loop), open as of press time Thursday through Monday, 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. A morning-time staple for 40-plus years, The Bake Shop features home-style favorites like sourdough pancakes and sweet rolls. For lunch, the shop switches to homemade soups and sandwiches on fresh-baked bread.

For a special dinner experience, try Jack Sprat (165 Olympic Mountain Loop). Its regional cuisine with an Alaska touch is truly special, highlighting seasonal fresh produce and locally sourced protein such as halibut. Its tall chalet windows offer romantic views of the mountainside. Check the restaurant’s website for hours.

Nearby, stalwart Double Musky Inn (Mile 0.3 Crow Creek Road) is a tucked-away steakhouse known for colorful French Quarter decor, a

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a world-class wine cellar and spot-on Creole classics with Alaskan flair. Its lively elegance has delighted locals and tourists alike for decades. There will be a wait many nights, but it’s worth it.

For a fun, laid-back vibe, pop by Girdwood Brewing Co. With indoor tables and outdoor seating around gas-fed fire pits, sip pints or smaller tasters while ordering from one or more local food trucks that rotate on site; the truck schedule is updated on the brewery’s website. They also sell trendy hoodies, hats and stickers to remember your sudsy Girdwood detour.

PORTAGE Like Girdwood, Portage once sat alongside the Seward Highway, but after the ‘64 quake, Portage faded away, with little remaining today but the remains of cabins overtaken by aggressive brush. In Portage’s place, visitors today will find the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center (Mile 79 Seward Highway), a sprawling sanctuary that provides large-enclosure spaces for orphaned and rehabilitating Alaska animals.

View animals by either driving, walking the 1.5-mile loop encircling the center, or booking a tour with one of the staff naturalists. Hours are 9 a.m.-7 p.m. May through August; 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Sept. 1-15; and 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Sept. 15 to Oct. 31. Check the website for additional hours.

WHITTIER An eastern turn at Portage down Portage Valley Road delivers motorists to the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center, and beyond that, the end-of-the-road town of Whittier.

The Begich, Boggs Visitor Center (Portage Lake Loop) opens from late May to early September and sits about 5 miles east of the Seward Highway, a flat, pretty, quick drive.

Named in honor of U.S. Reps. Nick Begich and Hale Boggs, whose flight in Alaska disappeared in 1972, the center is built on the edge of a lake on the moraine left by

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the receding Portage Glacier. The glacier is visible via boat trips to its front. The center itself offers science-geared educational opportunities for adults and kids alike.

Drive farther and travelers will encounter a truly different experience by way of the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel. The 2.5-milelong, one-way toll highway tunnel is the longest in North America, a dark and moody viaduct through the formidable mountains. It was originally a train tunnel connecting the western side of Turnagain Arm to the military port town of Whittier. Find tunnel schedules online to time your visit accordingly.

Whittier exists as a critical deep-water port.

In this unusual community, most residents call one of two large buildings home due to the lack of housing and buildable land. For activities, there are glacier-viewing boats, regular cruise ship stops, a fine harbor-view hotel called The Inn at Whittier (5A Harbor Loop Road), hiking and fishing, plus camping and RV options.

The one-way toll tunnel is strange enough to warrant a one-hour side trip. If you have time, visit the small but surprisingly comprehensive Prince William Sound Museum (743 Whittier St.). An impressive number of exhibits fill its snug space, capturing the story of Whittier’s very original history.

SEWARD Arriving in Seward is a show-stopper, as the highway ends at last and the view opens up to this special place, surrounded by the dramatic mountains ringing Resurrection Bay. Seward is home to an amiable community with a hodgepodge economy built on fishing outfits, kayak companies, sightseeing excursions, shops, restaurants and bars, plus there’s a beautiful boat harbor where visitors can walk the docks. About 2,800 people live here yearround, and summer cruise ships can deliver thousands of visitors a day.

Highlights of Seward include the Alaska SeaLife Center (301 Railway Ave.), a hands-on

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aquarium and working science facility that boasts opportunities to ogle diving puffins and swimming sea lions, peer at octopus up close and learn about the special place that is Resurrection Bay. From the SeaLife Center, a leisurely walk up Fourth Avenue provides a serene sense of Seward’s long-ago frontier culture, with Old West storefronts, historical murals, steepled churches, and commemorative plaques and historical markers. A paved footpath that runs from the SeaLife Center along the waterfront toward the harbor is a pleasant way to enjoy the mountain scenery.

Seward has plenty of hotels and motels, home rentals, hostel beds, camping and RV options for those overnighting it.

Beyond the roadways, day cruises through Kenai Fjords National Park are a popular way to soak up the glorious waters of Resurrection Bay. Otters, seals, puffins, orcas and various migrating whales all may make cameos on these charters, some of which include island stopovers for meals.

To see a glacier by foot, carve out a couple of hours for a stop at Exit Glacier. Located just inside Kenai Fjords National Park, this glacier at the edge of Harding Icefield recedes annually, to the sadness of many fans. But a moderately graded walking path leads to overlooks where the glacier is still easily visible and photographable.

Seward is synonymous with fishing, and there are a bounty of half- or full-day charters that fish for halibut, salmon or both.

Charters typically provide all fishing gear, and in town, there are options for having fish filleted and flash-frozen for shipping after your excursion ends. These trips depart early and return late and make for a full Alaskan experience. Play your cards right, and you will enjoy the scenery of a wildlife-viewing trip while returning home with a freezer’s worth of fish to commemorate your unique and unforgettable Alaska vacation long after it’s over.

FULL HOOK-UPS WiFi Dump Station ConCierge DeSk PROPANE Bathhouse, Mini-Golf, Laundry, dog park, playground * Ask us about booking Alaska tours for you and your family. Our staff is here to help. Discounts through KOA.

Seward KOA

31702 Herman Leirer Rd, Seward, AK 99664 907.224.4887 • koa.com/campgrounds/seward

RV PARK

Seward Municipal Campgrounds Memories that will last a lifetime.

Reserve online today at cityofseward.us

April 15 – September 30 Info: 907-224-4887

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KENAI PENINSULA: BIG FISH, GORGEOUS VISTAS, SMALL-TOWN CHARM

By B A I L E Y B E R G

A

ccessible wilderness, heaps of trails and enough trophy fish to spawn “it was THIS big” stories for years to come, it’s easy to see why the Kenai Peninsula is often referred to as “Alaska’s playground.” While there are oodles of worthwhile spots to visit, here are just a few to get you started.

Fishermen clean their catch at Miller’s Landing outside of Seward.

PHOTO BY MARC LESTER

HOPE Impossibly charming, Hope is a worthwhile detour for those zipping down to conquer the Kenai Peninsula. The atmospheric downtown with stunning views of Turnagain Arm offers a good jumping-off point for a variety of hikes. Gull Rock Trail, an old wagon road, is a local favorite — it’s 5 miles one way with negligible elevation gain.

Hope Point is a strenuous climb following an alpine ridge that offers incredible views (and serious bragging rights). Those looking for an adrenaline rush can book a rafting trip down Six Mile Creek. For those seeking a more relaxing trip, there are heaps of cabins with cozy porches ideal for cracking into a book, the Dirty Skillet makes for a solid dinner spot, and the Seaview Cafe and Creekbend Co. attract some of the better Alaska bands for nighttime entertainment.

WORLD CLASS

Salmon • Halibut • Bottomfish

Full-day & 1/2-day Fishing Charters

Four Charter Fishing Vessels Sightseeing Tours for Kenai Fjords National Park Available Call For More Info:

(907) 224-3968

Office on the Boardwalk

Seward Small Boat Harbor www.auroracharters.com

1-888-586-8420 email: sales@auroracharters.com 64

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There is always time to celebrate...

Open 7am till Late!

Sea otters bob along the surface of Kachemak Bay offshore from Homer.

PHOTO BY ERIK HILL

SEWARD Just over 120 miles away, Seward could make a nice day trip from Anchorage. But why rush? It has all the Alaska elements: water, mountains, forests, fishing and quirky local charm. Want to see a glacier up close? Access some by water in Kenai Fjords National Park or by land at Exit Glacier. Want to see sweeping views of Resurrection Bay? Meet Mount Marathon and marvel at how local and international athletes get to the top, and back again, in one of Alaska’s most iconic footraces each year (traditionally held on the Fourth of July). Looking for something the whole family will enjoy? Don’t miss the touch pool at the Alaska SeaLife Center and look for vessels with pun-inspired names in the harbor. Complement your adventures with a meal at one of the local eateries, many of which are housed in historic buildings.

programs, and Soldotna’s Homestead Museum showcases homesteaders’ cabins with free guided tours.

HOMER Visitors to Homer find there are many ways to explore “the end of the road.” Just 220 miles

WELCOME TO

from Anchorage, the town sits between the water and the mountains and extends out onto a skinny, 4.5-mile-long spit. It’s a town where fishermen, artists, beer lovers, foodies, musicians, adventurers and beachcombers all feel at home.

It’s easy to while away a few days — tramp

SOLDOTNA, ALASKA! Outdoor Market & FREE concerts in Soldotna Creek Park Every Wednesday, from June-August

SOLDOTNA AND KENAI Drive through these towns in the height of summer and you’ll notice many cars laden with big, round dipnets, rods and reels with all the bells and whistles, coolers and muddy Xtratuf boots. The salmon that return en masse to the Kenai River are legendary. (Be advised: The area’s dipnet fishery is deservedly famous but open to state residents only. See our fishing guide for an overview of other great options, and always make sure you have the correct permits; the Department of Fish and Game’s We Fish AK site is a good place to start, or call 907-267-2218.)

If fishing doesn’t call to you, there are breweries with airy patios, the Kenai National Wildlife Refuge Headquarters & Visitors Center offers naturalist-led outdoor

200+ Riverside Campsites on the

907.262.9814 WWW.

visitsoldotna.COM

World Famous Kenai River. Stop by the Visitor Center at 44790 Sterling Hwy. for information and brochures on the area, and view a variety of exhibits, including the world-

record King Salmon.

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An angler fly-fishes for red salmon on the upper Kenai River.

PHOTO BY DARON DEAN

along the beautiful trail systems, check out the tide pools, eat at first-rate restaurants, pick through the various art galleries and handicraft stores. You can learn a bit more about the 49th state’s local ecosystem at the Center for Alaskan Coastal Studies or the Exxon oil spill at the Pratt Museum.

If time and budget allow, tick off some bucket-list experiences: Get a bird’s-eye view of nearby glaciers and wildlife on a flightseeing tour; cruise around on a water taxi looking for sea creatures; try your hand at reeling in a “barn door”-sized halibut on a charter; or take a water taxi across the bay to Halibut Cove, an artist enclave known for divine dishes at The Saltry Restaurant and stunning scenery.

Alaska Adventure venture Homer, Alaska

Cabins

Deluxe Homes Convenient Location Full Kitchens • Decks • Panoramic Views Internet • Upscale Alaskan Decor

907-715-2745

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Located on the Homer Spit

”Friends are like flowe flowers. They fill the world with beauty.”

Visit your friends and find your flower at Uncle Herb’s 6511 ARCTIC SPUR RD (907)561-4372

r e v o c s Di Kachemak ay!

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360 BONIFACE PKWY, SUITE A5

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makoswatertaxi.com 66

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(907)332-4372

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209 KING CIRCLE

risks associated with consumption of marijuana. For use only by adults twenty-one or older. Keep out of reach of children. Marijuana should not be used by women who are pregnant or breast feeding. #10648, #10647, #20865, #12866, #30153

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