Stock & Barrel: Winter 2017

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

1

From the Editor CEO/Publisher Wayne T. Lewis Editor-in-Chief Travis Hoewischer Associate Editor Jeni Ruisch Contributing Writers Steve Croyle J.R. McMillan Mitch Hooper Danny Hamen Robert Hunt Copy Editor Amanda Mahaffey LEAD PHOTOGRAPHER Tommy Feisel

M

Associate PHOTOGRAPHER Collins Laatsch

an, you edit a food magazine! I betcha you’re just eating delicious food everyday!

If people only knew that most of the time, it’s me at my desk scavenging from the office snack bin, or as the case this past month—eating two breakfast Hot Pockets that I forgot were in the office freezer.

I can’t tell what’s sadder: eating that for lunch, or actually being delighted they weren’t expired.

Or maybe it’s the fact that April 2018 means that I likely purchased these items roughly four years ago.

That, and enough whiskey to ruin repeated brunches, is actually the dietary diary of a food and drink editor.

But, not this month: OH BOY, GUYS. Something compelled me to do a little more research in the field than normal, and that something is covered in salt and pepper and smoked into gloriously black bark, and has been taking over the downtown area in the past few months.

In case you haven’t noticed, Columbus is undergoing a full-blown BBQ love affair, and I am as happy as a pig in cumin/paprika/garlic/chili powder/brown sugar/coffee/ cayenne pepper.

Not only have my days been peppered with brisket, baked beans, and burnt ends, I’ve met some of my favorite new people in the city.

Sure, any chef takes pride in their work—but there’s something about the barbecue people. To quote the great Rory Scovel, on men in the South, they’re “embarrassed when they’re not good at something.”

I always like to ask folks I interview to shout-out some other joints around the town that they like, and in this case, the question, who’s got the best ribs/pulled pork/greens, resulted in a long, silent side-eye.

We all love humility.

But, I want my BBQ chef to be cocky—it comes through even stronger than the cedar and oak. Kind of amazing, really.

After sampling 6-8 different BBQ joints over a matter of weeks,

10

there’s so much personality that comes through for places making essentially the same 6-8 dishes.

And that’s what Stock & Barrel is about—the personalities .. the story.

We don’t make a habit of talking about things that don’t taste good, but with each and every one of our pages, there’s more to digest, so to speak, when it comes to our subjects.

And just the way our BBQ guys did with us, we’ll let you in on a little house secret: we explore the city just like you do.

Not everything comes with a hot tip, after all.

Three great new BBQ joints? Let’s find 10 more we’ve never been to.

Had fun at that tasting menu and watching the chef at The Keep work? Let’s see who else cooks in an open house.

Now, we did have someone put together the painstaking task of nearly 40 different food truck options for you this winter—including vegan and vegetarian options—but, it’s mostly served as my “what’s for lunch today?” list.

How else do you end up chatting with a guy who loves pasting up political cartoons as much as he does pressing paninis?

Or getting way too deep with dudes stripping down for a bar calendar?

Thanks to this magazine, I’m already scouting the calendar for a weekend to dine on Lake Erie AND planning an ice cream crawl in Hilliard.

In the meanwhile, the rest of the staff have to get to work on another one of these.

Me? Probably gonna take a long winter’s nap.

Cheers,

Travis Hoewischer, Editor-in-Chief

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

Contributing Photographers Brian Kaiser Megan Leigh Barnard Ryan Blanski Stephanie Craddock Sherwood Lead Designer Dustin Goebel graphic Designer Hugo Albornoz Jess Wallace Phoebe Davis Advertising director Meggin Weimerskirch Senior Account Executives Derek Landers Liza Worthington ACcOUNT EXECUTIVE Becky Hart Digital Marketing Associate Kaitlin Perfect Manager of audience development Stephanie McFarland VP of Sales/Marketing Lindsay Press

(614) Magazine 458 E Main St., Columbus, OH 43215 Office: (614) 488-4400 Fax: (614) 488-4402 Email submissions to: editor@614columbus.com www.614columbus.com

Smoke Signals 18

Smell that coming up from the South? It's a barebecue invasion....

Soup's on! 34

Don't let the cold get you down—spice up your diet with these winter warmers

Guy Time 46

The blonde bomber of greasy food stopped in his birthplace to put the Triple D stamp on Pierogi Mountain and other local joints

Beyond Beer 78

Thanks to savvy sharing of resources—and sources—local brewers are scoring green points with their pints

Suds of Time 86

Cheers to King Gambrinus and the rest of Columbus brewing history with author Curt Schieber

Actual Science 90

Don't let the title fool you: Hoax Labs is doing some real impressive work

AppHop: II 54

Stock & Barrel photographer Tommy Feisel takes his wife out on the town and lets you in on the their secret spots

Culinary Itinerary 60

Did you know Columbus has sister cities? Ya did? Ya didn't? Either way, we have an intro to their cuisine much closer to home...

Family Jewel 66

Jeff Ruby built a restaurant empire and a family—and now has them both combined as a new venture takes shape in Columbus

Bare Bar 74

How a pin-up calendar of bar regulars is helping women in central Ohio

Eat with Your Eyes: Ryan Blanski 94

These days everyone is taking pictures of their lunch, but the talented food and drink photogrpaphers of Columbus are still finding ways to reinvent the food photograph

Fresh Tastes 98

Before you can put your fork down in this city, there's seemingly a dozen new restaurants swinging open their doors; we try our best to keep track of them for you...

Cover Photo by Tommy Feisel, BBQ Courtesy Legacy Smokehouse; custom cutting board from Griffen Hollow.

12

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

contents

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

13

C alendar 1 Fri 1.19

2 Fri 1.19 - Sat 1.20

By Sto ck & B arrel staff

3 Mon 1.22 - Sat 1.27

4 Sun 1.28 - Mon 1.29 -

The Pancakes & Booze Art Show Location: 401 W Town St. Time: 8 p.m.

Admission: $10-$12 Web: pancakesandbooze.com The underground art scene in Columbus is nothing short of incredible—and that’s exactly what you will see at the Pancakes & Booze Art Show. There will more than 50 different artists making an appearance at the one-day event. For just $10 at the door, you’ll get the chance to watch live as artists showcase their abilities with performances including body paintings, music, and other feats of skill.

And did we mention the $10 at the door includes free pancakes? Yeah, catch us stuffing our faces full of pancakes and washing it all down with a nice glass of whiskey. Your New Year resolution can be put on hold for one night.

14

Winter Beerfest 2018

(614) Restaurant Week

Location: 400 N High St. Time: 7 p.m.

Admission: $45 Web: columbusbeerfest.com

Location: Varies Time: Varies Admission: Varies Web: eat614.com

Summer, spring, winter, or fall; when it comes to beer, we care not about the season because we love them all. In its eighth year in Columbus, the Winter Beerfest is back. If it seems like there’s an infinite amount of beers to choose from this year; it’s because there’s damn near 500 beers on the list! Now, of course you can’t get to every single beer on the list so you need to grab as many friends as you have, and gameplan how you plan to defeat the beast. Perhaps split up into teams based on the brew? You’ll figure it out, we’re sure this isn’t your first rodeo with drinking way too much beer. Oh, and someone should just be a good friend and pay the discounted price of admission for a DD so everyone can get home safe and sound.

(614) Magazine and Marathon Gas have teamed up to host the 2018 installment of Restaurant Week which will feature more than 100 restaurants in Columbus offering three-course meals at a fraction of the price they would typically be. Not only is this week easy on the bank account, every time a photo is posted using #EAT614 $1 will be donated to a charity! Whether you are vegan, gluten-free, or love it all—this week is dedicated to the foodie that resides deep down in all of us!

Mid-America Restaurant Expo Location: 400 N High St. Time: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Admission: $29 Web: midamericanrestaurantexpo.com

If you are a member of the food service industry, the MidAmerica Restaurant Expo was created just for you. The restaurant world is changing at a fast pace due to technology and other factors; this event hopes to tackle some of these changes and provide insights and knowledge through expert guest speakers including chef Michael Symon. More than 300 vendors will be in attendance at the show, guest appearances from celebrity chefs, and the Pizza Pizzazz Competition will be held to crowned “Best of the Midwest.” Previously, Kyle Rosch of Brenz Pizza Company in North Carolina has won the last two competitions—we think it’s prime time someone from Columbus promptly brings home that title this year.

5 Sat 2.17

Mix & Shake Location: 59 Spruce St. Time: 7:30 p.m.

Admission: $50 Web: northmarket.com When February rolls around in Ohio, the best thing you can do to outlast the last few weeks of the blistering cold weather is to surround yourself with good company and better liquor. Thankfully, the North Market’s Mix and Shake evening is precisely just that. Hang out and mingle with new and familiar faces alike as you sip on one of your four free six-ounce cocktails, munch at one of the local eateries. Find a safe haven in Hot Chicken Takeover after Blind Lady Tavern transforms the space into a speakeasy for the night. Along with your four free cocktails, your $50 admission gets you a $10 gift card to any shop that calls the North Market home and proceeds from the event will be donated to the not-for-profit North Market Development Authority.

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

15

Gut Reactions What the Stock & Barrel team puts in their faces

T

o get this magazine whipped into shape, our contributors put themselves through intensive training—leaving little to no remaining evidence of the research they’ve conducted leading up to our printing.

What I mean is: we eat and drink a lot.

So, why not start this thing off with a dual purpose: you get a little behind-the-scenes playlist of sorts that also adds a little credibility to our adventurous team.

Next time someone asks you what you want to eat or drink, recall this list and tell them, Ya know, I heard from someone that this was good…

Kaitlin Perfect

Veggie burger at Olde Towne Tavern, Buckeye pretzel bites at Pat & Gracie’s, shredded chicken nachos at Fuzzy’s, southwest chicken wrap at Graze, Scioto loaded fries at Brew Brothers.

Collins Laatsch

Buttermilk cheddar biscuits at Little Eater, burnt ends with ghost pepper sauce at Red Door, impossible burger at Bareburger, crispy ribs at Service Bar, pulled pork sandwich at The Pit.

J.R. McMillan

Spanakopita and Avgolemono (spinach pie and lemon chicken orzo soup) at King Gyros, crawfish etouffée at Da Levee, “Louie” Callahan (sausage, spinach, black beans, onions, and Swiss over home fries) at Paul’s Fifth Avenue.

Jeni Ruisch

Brunch menu breakfast hash and bloody mary, Pat and Gracie’s, Polish Girl at The Pit, Mac ‘n’ cheese at Smoked on High, Negroni at Little Rock Bar.

Travis Hoewischer

Beer cheese soup at Beggar’s Banquet, Big Bob’s Belly Balancer at Katzinger’s, mozzarella sticks at Pat and Gracie’s, Thai burrito at Northstar, Two Step (brisket and jalapeño cheddar sausage) at Legacy Smokehouse.

Heather Hotaling

Beef short rib and grits at The Keep, the Maple Cortado at Mission Coffee, the freakishly addicting cucumbers and radishes at Brassica, the house hot sauce at Mazah, salmon nigiri at Akai Hana, and I never tire of Harvest Pizzeria’s mushroom pizza.

Regina Fox

House marg on the rocks at Fuzzy’s, impossible burger at Bareburger, Oreo donut at Duck Donuts, marinara pizza at Little Palace, Rhinegeist Dad at Short North Tavern.

16

Mitch Hooper

Veggie tacos from Local Cantina, Edamame poke bowl with seaweed salad from Poke Bros, sriracha slaw veggie dog from Dirty Frank’s Hot Dog Palace, Dad Holiday Hoppy Ale from Rhinegeist, impossible burger from Bareburger.

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

Brian Kaiser

Brussel sprouts at Harvest Pizzeria, avocado biscuit at Dough Mama, Yukon Gold French fries with lemon-basil aioli at The Rossi, seasonal squashes at Rockmill Tavern, veggie tamales at Dos Hermanos.

Amanda Mahaffey

Chicken and waffles at Eddie’s, maple breakfast sandwich at Kittie’s Cakes, mushroom risotto at Forno, spicy turkey sandwich at Upper Cup, pepperoni, banana peppers, and mushroom at Rubinos.

Steve Croyle

Chicken salad sandwich at Weiland’s, sausage gravy and biscuits at Tommy’s, jackfruit salad sandwich at Strongwater, breakfast at Lisska Bar, roasted root vegetable toast at Mudflats.

Hugo Albornoz

Fernet and Coke at The Bottle Shop, salmon sandwich at Club 185, brunch buffet at Oddfellows, tacos al pastor at El Tizoncito, patron and pineapple at Novak’s.

PHOEBE DAVIS

Probably "too many" Dough Mama avocado biscuit sandwiches. Hot Chicken Takeover, with extra ranch, obviously. Corned beef hash at McCarthy's Wildflower Café, Salmon BLT at the Angry Baker, and a bag of Goldfish crackers for dinner because it's finals week.

Paul Meara

Wings at Mongolian Chicken, chicken choila set at Momo Ghar, The Counter Burger at Over The Counter, Japanese eggplant with garlic sauce at H.Y. Asian Cuisine, Thanksgiving Dinner at Press Grill.

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

17

T In a a hot hot Texas Texas In minute, Columbus Columbus minute, becomes a a better better becomes BBQ town town BBQ

18

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

he latest food trend in Columbus seemed to sneak up on us, a subtle waft from the South that got stronger through the end of fall, and by winter, had gone hog wild.

The city is has gone bonkers for barbecue.

Now, with two more Ray Ray’s Hog Pit locations than the last time Stock & Barrel printed (Westerville, and Land-Grant, respectively), several new challengers to the crown have emerged.

Seeing the flames of such a contest stoked, has us stoked, as Columbus is only beginning to reap the brisketladen benefits.

Even better? They’ve all got respect for their peers and for the pitmasters that came before them—and all embrace the simple, no-frills approach that makes every great BBQ joint legit.

Let’s chew the fat with three new places you’ll be checking out soon:

P h otos by co lli ns Laatsch

Legacy Smokehouse

1102 S High St.

Open: 11 a.m. – 7 p.m. Friday/Saturday; 11 a.m to 3 p.m. Sunday

S

eemingly showing up out of nowhere—did you even remember there was a Long John Silver’s on that end of High Street?— three friends from Grove City (Brian Jordan, Chad Smock, and Ty Sells) started selling out of their simple salt-and-pepper brisket and housemade jalapeno cheddar sausage mere weeks after setting up shop in October. We spoke with Jordan about how it all got started.

What is your culinary background? Honestly, we don’t have much at all … actually, we have zero culinary background. We’re just a couple of guys that fell in love with the idea of what Central Texas BBQ is and what it represents. There’s so much history there.

What is your inspiration? We took a trip in February of 2017 to Central Texas to have our original smoker built. While it was being built, we did a Central Texas BBQ tour 20

and experienced our personal BBQ Gods, like Aaron Franklin, John Lewis, Wayne Mueller, and Tootsie Tomanetz. On the the 1,000-mile drive home is when we came up with our name, Legacy. We hope to carry on the Legacy of what these iconic pitmasters have done before us.

If you could barbeque any other meat—besides the usual suspects, chicken, pork, and beef—what would it be? Why? We want to stay true to our Texas roots and what Legacy represents. A popular cut in Texas is Shoulder Clod, which no one does here. It’s one of our favorite cuts that has the most amazing beef flavor. We would choose shoulder clod, beef plate ribs, and prime rib. All of them are coming soon…

Is there enough room in Columbus for all these BBQ places? Absolutely! We hope to just

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

become one of the many. We love Smoked on High and Red Door and all the others.

Columbus is well overdue for great BBQ joints and we’re just grateful to find our niche.

Who (beside yourself, obviously) makes the best BBQ in Columbus? We love Smoked on High. The meats are smoked well, and you can tell it’s a labor of love for Max. He has a different flavor profile than us—which is awesome—because that’s what makes BBQ so great. That’s where we go on our days off to enjoy Columbus barbeque. B&K Smokehouse is awesome! Great owners doing it right. Love their turkey ribs (had no idea there was such a thing) and their mustard sauce would make a smoked cowboy boot taste good!

Was there a time when you thought this wouldn’t have worked in this city? One of the partners lived in Dallas for eight years. He fell in

love with Central Texas BBQ, which is how it all started. People in Texas wait two-to-three hours in line for good barbecue, and we did as well. We felt like if we could even come close to what they were serving, we could make a run at it. However, we were all scared.

You put so much time and energy into your “art” and then wait to be judged by your customers. It was an emotion that none of us were prepared for. We’re so grateful that we’ve been so well received.

What’s the classic mistake you see people making with BBQ—either at home or in restaurants? Rushing the process.

We’re guilty of doing it in the beginning, too.

When in doubt, lower the temp and give it a few more hours. You won’t be disappointed.

Do you remember the first time you fell in love with BBQ? I was living in Miami and bought a $99 smoker from Walmart. It was horrible— the food was a disaster. I thought smoking meant you try and produce the heaviest, thickest smoke possible and you’re good.

Turns out, you want the complete opposite.

From there, I moved to East Texas, which was still sauce-based and pork-heavy because of its regional tendencies. I stopped at every roadside joint I passed and sampled it all.

I then moved to Dallas and visited Central Texas where it was almost like a religious experience. People will say their BBQ is the best until they visit Central Texas. It’s a whole other level and you can’t possibly understand it until you visit. We hope to make that trek a little shorter by carrying on their Legacy.

What sets you apart from the other BBQ joints in Columbus?

We’re one of the only ones, if not the only one that uses all wood smokers. We say it’s a labor of love because we are monitoring our smokers and tending to the fire and meats 24 hours a day. What most people don’t realize is that we actually start at 9 a.m. on Thursday just to get our fires ready and our craft meats ready for service at 11 a.m. on Friday. We are cooking around the clock from 9 a.m., Thursday until we close on Sunday. We tend the fire, spritz the meat, wrap them in the middle of the night, let them rest and then get them in warmers to be ready for service. It’s not a “set it & forget it” process like most places with gas assist.

We will never let anything but Ohio white oak fuel our cookers in hopes that it’s the best in Columbus!

The secret to true BBQ, in six words: Wood, smoke, time, wood, smoke, beer.

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

21

22

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

Smoked on High 755 S High St.

Open: 11 a.m. - 8 p.m. Wednesday - Sunday

I

f not for the scent, you may miss Smoked on High entirely—which is very much part of its charm. How could you love a downtown BBQ joint serving out of an old house, recessed from the street with a porch and a gravel patio? It’s A summertime day in the South all-yearround, even if you’re feet from a gray day on South High Street. As far as the food, it’s simple and sweet, with only a few options and no indecision to get in your way. If you’re like us, you’re gonna wanna get that fatty brisket. You’re already there, right? No need to lay off the gas now. Owner Max McGarity tells us more about the business: What is your culinary background? Selftaught, actually. I worked in restaurants in high school and fell in love with the artistic freedom of food. I decided then to open my own BBQ food truck in 2011 and it’s been BBQ ever since. My dream to open my own restaurant was finally achieved this summer.

What sets you apart from the other BBQ joints in Columbus? I think it’s our succulent cuts of meat we use, whether it be the pork spare ribs or the jumbo drummies, and our eclectic style of sauces. And the fact that you can enjoy delicious BBQ inside during the cold winter months!

Is there enough room in Columbus for all these BBQ places? Columbus is one of the biggest small towns in the country. Of course there’s plenty of room for good BBQ. Who (beside yourself, obviously) makes the best BBQ in Columbus? Ray Ray’s is obviously an institution in Columbus, but I’ve had Legacy and they’re serving up some good BBQ, too. I’d tip my hat to B & K Smokehouse, too.

What’s the classic mistake you see people making with BBQ—either at home or in restaurants? The biggest mistake I see is people over complicating things. Keep it simple!

Do you remember the first time you fell in love with BBQ? When I was young kid, I went to City Barbeque with my dad. I remember smelling the smoke throughout the restaurant, which was really cool. Since BBQ in Columbus wasn’t that big back in the day, it was a new experience.

The secret to true BBQ, in six words: “There’s more than one right way.”

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

23

24

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

Red Door BBQ

177 S Cypress Ave.

Open: 11 a.m. - 4 p.m. Wednesday - Sunday

I

f you need to know anything about how much love goes into the food shipped out of a little square window in Franklinton, it’s all on chef Darrell Thornton’s face. He house-makes just about everything but the lemonade, and smokes everything out back. Wanna feel the same joy that Darrell feels everyday? Stop by and pop a few of those burnt ends in your face. You’re welcome.

What is your culinary background? [I’ve] been cooking since I was 8, taught by my grandmother. I started cooking in restaurants at the age of 15. My first job was Dairy Queen.

What sets you apart from the other BBQ joints in Columbus? What sets me apart, in my mind, from other restaurants, is that I cook everything in-house. From my sauces, to all my sides.

Does Columbus have its own BBQ style? Yes, I think Columbus has its own style of barbecue, more of a Midwest style. I like to take parts of all regions and put them together and make my own.

What old school BBQ joints would you tip your hat to in Columbus? One of my favorite barbecue spots here in Columbus is H. Johnson’s. [It’s] a landmark. They’ve been here for about 40 years, if not more.

What’s the classic mistake you see people making with BBQ—either at home or in restaurants? One of the biggest mistakes I see at home [is] they always try to rush BBQ. BBQ is long and slow.

What’s the secret to true BBQ, in a six-word sentence? Long and slow. Do not rush.

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

25

Pit Stops How far will you go for BBQ? Consider this list your road map The best and most authentic spots are always off the beaten path, and have a loyal following of customers that would wait in line for hours, sing their praises to the heavens… And probably not tell too many people, because they don’t want their sweet, sweet Q to run out before they get there.

These are the low-key spots where you can find reliably good smoked grub in and around the capital city

B&K Smokehouse

1114 E Main St. Custom smokers, the usual BBQ suspects, and the curiously tantalizing turkey ribs make up the backdrop for the finest customer service in the city.

26

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

The Pit

3545 Cleveland Ave. Run by a few former Buckeye football players and their pals, this spot is nestled back in an unassuming strip mall, but their food will leave you with a full belly and a smile on your sauce-covered face. Try the Polish girl, it’s a little bit of everything.

The Huntsman’s Smokehouse

8333 Market Exchange Dr., Westerville Dine-in, take-out, or catering are all covered on this menu. Treat your party guests to a smoked meat nacho bar, or any of their savory entrees.

Smokeout

Pulled pork and chicken, plus a mean brisket, is a mouth-watering trio in itself.

But add on their selection of delicious sides, and the fact that they cater, and you’ll want to put Smokeout on speed dial.

Kenny’s Barbecue

1580 Joyce Ave. Nondescript storefront. Simple menu. Ribs smothered in sauce. But not in a bad way.

These are all the makings of a hidden BBQ gem.

Tennessee Pit

6091 Cleveland Ave. It’s all about sauce and service at this outta-the-way spot. Grab the “dino bone” and start chomping.

J.P’s

2000 Norton Rd. You don’t have to wait for the Ohio State Fair tocome back around for you to enjoy J.P.’s barbecue, but you will have to make a trip to the Bolton Field Airport. Why wouldn’t you? Once the weather warms, you can have putt-putt and horseshoes as sides.

BBQ Shak

5978 E Livingston Ave. Shak Attack! Sink your teeth into their rich, BBQ pulled pork or pick apart their pulled pork nachos.

Oak Hill

60 N Columbus St., Sunbury If you’re gonna trek all the way to Delaware County, we suggest bringing back meat by the pound. The boys at Oak Hill say a pound feeds three people—but we won’t make you share.

H. Johnson’s Restaurant and Dairy 1119 Lockbourne Rd. An original classic. If you haven’t been to H. Johnson’s and smelled the history in their old wood-paneled walls, you are disqualified from weighing in on Columbus barbecue. Time to update your credentials, in that case.

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

27

Rib-splendent Fine dining catches on to the BBQ craze

B

y now, you know how much of a BBQ beast we’ve turned into during this issue. Sauce and burnt flesh EVERYWHERE. But as much as we love the little roadside joints and brisket bunkers, we couldn’t let this issue go by without a head-nod to two standout dishes—that stand out even more because they’re not afraid to get their white tablecloth approach a little dirty.

Thanks, Watershed and Middle West. You already had us at booze—but we’re now completely smitten with your take on ribs. – Travis Hoewischer

Hay-Smoked Baby Back Ribs Watershed Kitchen & Bar 1145 Chesapeake Ave.

Trust me, this will be the best $16 you ever spend. Served in a cast iron skillet and fresh hay smoking next to it, these grilled pork ribs are perfectly seasoned and sauced, the texture of a chocolate cake on top, revealing pull apart, smoke-ringed flavor on the inside. It’s not even entirely necessary to include the sesame seeds, pickled shallot, herbed crème, but it’s just more taste on top. Chef Jack Moore is lucky we don’t work with him—we’d never even let it get out the door without taking a bite.

28

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

Crispy Ribs Service Bar

1230 Courtland Ave.

Chef Avishar Barca has made a name for himself well before Service Bar’s long-awaited opening, having turned heads for his inventive, yet approachable dishes at vaunted Veritas Tavern. Now, running the show at Middle West Spirit’s new kitchen, he’s done it again with his “crispy ribs,” a familiar taste to those who are followers of the great General Tso. But, you’ll never want to go back to your favorite takeout once you’ve bitten into Barua’s creation, a sticky sweet treat beautifully flanked by fried broccoli and pickled radish.

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

29

N O M I R RO RS

By Mi tch Ho o per P h otos by Co l li ns Laatsch

How City BBQ branded itself into Columbus culture—and smoked the competition

W

hen Rick Malir devised a plan to create a barbecue joint in Columbus, the number one song in the country was “Believe” by Cher.

As unlikely as that seems in hindsight, creating a local staple out of Southern BBQ in the cold, gray Midwest might have seemed just as far-fetched.

While the City BBQ founder was in his backyard, perfecting his pork and brisket recipes and whipping up baked beans from his home kitchen, murmurs from other restaurant owners rumbled that his place would only last six months; that no one outside of Columbus would care about the barbecue he was making. Fast forward to 36 City BBQs open in six different states, suffice it to say Malir has silenced his doubters since 1999.

But the road to success came with potholes. He had to empty his life savings to open the first store. His market research was based on a hunch. Hell, at one point Malir was kicked out of his Dublin neighborhood, the neighbors burned up over the smoke billowing from 30

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

his garage.

Like all good things in life—and good barbeque—it didn’t come fast or easy. It took grit, determination, and a shitton of hickory logs to get to where he is at.

With Columbus in the midst of a BBQ infatuation, Stock & Barrel had the chance to sit down with the meat mastermind Rick Malir and pick his brain about City BBQ’s place in the Columbus food scene.

A lot of cities across the country have this iconic style when it comes to barbecue like Carolina, Memphis, Texas, etc. Where do you see Columbus falling into with these categories?

I’ve never thought about our impact on the barbecue scene here. We were just trying to make really good brisket. I think it’s more of a craft of what it is rather than going by regions … my market research [in Columbus] was “there’s gotta be at least 400 guys in the city who love barbecue like I do.”

That was basically my market research. I didn’t go into this thinking it’s going to be “this” or “that” and I’m not going to focus on “this region” or “that region,” I said let’s focus on really great ’cue... City BBQ literally started in a garage with some competition cooks. I was cooking baked beans and corn pudding in my neighbors’ ovens for some early catering jobs … but when I think of Columbus when it comes to barbecue, again, I think it’s more of a craft. barbecue, again, I think it’s more of a craft.

“ If you gotta put sauce all over your meat, you have something to hide.”

It sounds like you guys are literally your own taste lab. Just making food that you would eat yourself.

Oh, absolutely. And I try everything. I try not to be a dictator about it, but … I gotta be able to like it. If I don’t like it, I’m just like, “OK… So what’s the deal here?” The food has got to have a “wow” factor. It has to rock my world. It has to be really good—not just good enough.

Could you walk us through your process of creating the perfect plate? (One meat entree, two sides, a drink, and a dessert) Full-cut brisket. I gotta do baked beans because I’m from Kansas City. I’m gonna have to do three sides too, I’m going to do a meat and three on you. I gotta go baked beans, some type of cole slaw, and round it out with French fries or corn pudding. And if I’m crushing it that day, I’ll do peach cobbler.

But we are experimenting with burnt ends so once we get those perfected, I’d probably switch out the full-cut brisket for that.

Gas or Wood?

There are places in North Carolina that will just throw [the meat] in an electric oven, and nah, we aren’t doing that. We burn whole hickory logs, that’s how we do it. Some smokers will have gas assist and we have that because we live in Ohio and it’s cold. We need to provide some of that heat because, boy, if you tried to apply all that heat from just the wood, man, I don’t even want to think about how much wood we would go through.

We have that supplement, but we still stick to the true hickory logs. I’m a believer in woodsmoked barbecue without a doubt.

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

31

32

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

Sauce, dry rub, or naked?

My opinion of barbecue is like the sign we had in our original store, “If you gotta put sauce all over your meat, you have something to hide.” We don’t put sauce, other than maybe a slight glaze, because we believe barbecue is about the art of cooking the meat, not just dousing it in sauce. If you’re doing that, just throw it in the crockpot!

City BBQ has become a staple in Columbus and for a long time you guys were one of the few who were doing BBQ in the city. Now it seems like BBQ shops are opening up left and right. How do you think City BBQ has had an influence on the barbecue culture in Columbus?

The mission of our company is to serve and create happiness.

Take care of guests. Do what you gotta do. One of the coolest things—that is just as an example of what our teams do—was in Indianapolis when a lady wrote to us last week that said, “You don’t know this, but four years ago I went to your City BBQ in Indy. My husband had left me, I had $5 in my pocket, and I went there just to get some side dishes to feed my kids. The staff recognized I probably wasn’t in the best straits back then, so they kept bringing me more food until I was fed.” That’s what we want our folks to do: treat them well and do the right thing. [Things like this] are as important to us with the social impact we’ve had and the charities that we support—that’s as important to us as affecting [the] barbecue scene in Columbus. It’s not to get publicity from it—it’s because it’s the right thing to do. • City BBQ is currently in the test lab working on perfecting a meat alternative for vegetarians. For now, vegetarians will just have to get a second helping of mac-n-cheese. In the meantime, check out their original location on Henderson Rd. or head over to their website at citybbq.com.

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

33

bowl game

By Steve Croy l e ph otos by tomm y F ei s el

W

hat is it about a steaming bowl full of rich, spicy chili that just melts away the winter chill? Why does a that salty broth in an old fashioned chicken soup seem to have magical, virus-destroying powers? Where does pho get so much flavor?

Uh … who cares?

All we really want to do is get these things in our belly.

Maybe it’s a Midwestern thing; the land where every grandmother had a giant cauldron she used to steep the flavor out of kitchen odds and ends, the stuff too many of us throw away today.

These guys don’t.

This winter, check into these joints and see what they’re cooking up for ya:

Spagio, lobster bisque

34

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

35

36

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

Gallo’s Tap Room (5019 Olentangy River Rd.) is tucked away in the sprawling Olentangy plaza, but the people who know how to find it will tell you that it is home to some of the best pub grub in town. Gallo’s was rocking the “gastropub” concept before some tool coined the term, and the fact that we’re mocking that term today hasn’t changed the way they approach the menu. If you’ve never been, let’s just say that you’d be a fool not to try the soup. It doesn’t matter which— the selection changes regularly. Chili is always on the menu, and this is the classic tomato-based, easy on the spice version most Ohioans grew up on. Beans, meat, onions, and just enough heat to warm your soul. But the rotating soup of the day is where the magic happens. A frequent selection is the ribolita, which an oldschool Tuscan recipe based on creating a new soup out of some leftover minestroni (which is another soup you’ll find from time to time). It’s a complex soup, with robust flavor.

India Oak Grill (590 Oakland Park Ave.) is also tucked away from the beaten track, nestled in a non-descript space off of Indianola where Oakland Park dead ends.

They also keep a northern Ohio chili on hand, and allow for a rotating selection.

Again, it’s impossible to go wrong, but if they happen to have beer cheese soup available, you gotta get and put it in you.

It will move fast, and you’ll miss out on this silky miracle of culinary witchery.

Creamy soups are great, and that brings to mind bisques and chowders, of which there probably aren’t enough in Columbus, but Spagio (1295 Grandview Ave.) offers up a decadent lobster bisque that has a proper amount of lobster meat and flavor steeped into the a cream and butter base you’d best not mention to your cardiologist.

You can’t talk soups without pho, and Buckeye Pho (761 Bethel Rd.) is not only a favorite of some of our readers, but also comes highly recommended

by Vietnamese people living in town.

Another great pho can be found across Morse Road from Saraga Market at Huong (1270 Morse Rd.), which has been vouched for as the best Vietnamese restaurant in town by the same Vietnamese friends who think Buckeye Pho is the bomb. An honorable mention has to go out to Luc’s Asian Market (3275 Sullivant Ave.) on Sullivant for rocking a killer pho out of a kitchen in the back.

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

37

38

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

Of course, just about anybody from Ohio has a place in their heart for a simple bowl of tomato soup. La Chatelaine (multiple locations) comes to the rescue with a delicious version of everybody’s first experience with comfort food. Rich, sweet, and slightly acidic, with an herbaceous tweak from fresh basil this simple soup touches all the bases, add perfectly seasoned croutons and some grated cheese to take you back to a childhood lunch after a grueling morning of sled riding and snowball fights.

If you’re really more of a classic New England clam chowder, hit up the Fish Guys at the North Market (59 Spruce St.).

A cup of chowdah, and lobstah roll is, frankly, one of the most underrated dining experiences in town. •

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

39

Better sweet Upgrade your taste in treats Story a n d P hotos

by Collins L aats c h

S

ometimes when you are on the look for a sweet treat, you want a little break from the norm. Sure you could grab an ice cream concoction from one of the various quick-stop shops in the Columbus area—but, hey, anyone can blend up some soft-serve and throw some Oreos in it.

When I think of desserts, I imagine colorful cakes with various color shades of frosting, pies with decorative crusts, and innovative twists on classic options. Dessert is much more than a combination of sugar and other ingredients on a plate: it’s the visuals, the contrasting and complementing colors, and the subtle differences between one chef’s take on a dish compared to another.

So this month, that’s what I went out looking for.; I wanted to find desserts that showcases culinary skill and risk.

Creme Brûlée Eclair Pistacia Vera • 541 S Third St. Combining savory caramel flavors from creme brûlée, with the decadence of a classic eclair, this treat is worth every single calorie that comes with it.

40

Halo-Halo

Bonifacio • 1577 King Ave. From the sweet beans to the evaporated milk to the jackfruit, this Filipino dessert took the traditional shaved ice treat and put it on steroids.

Omega Cakes

Omega Bakery 59 Spruce St. Move over, Hostess HoHos. There’s a new sheriff in town and she goes by the name of Omega Cakes.

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

Dark chocolate orange slice with rosemary, White chocolate lemon slice with lavender

Coco Cat • 59 Spruce St. CoCo Cat cares not about your rules of dessert. Instead of piling on sugary options, they dip their lemon or orange slice in dark or white chocolate, add in some fresh herbs such as rosemary or lavender, and serve it up simply

Sweet Kolache

Kolache Republic 730 S High St. You really never know what you are going to get when it comes to Kolache Republic. One thing is for sure that the dough will be sweet and fluffy. As for toppers, it ranges from a dollop of sweet cheese to blueberry; depending on the season. We just so happened to stumble on the rich and luxurious peanut butter fudge.

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

41

Traveling down one short suburban stretch is an ice cream oasis

I

By R o b e rt G e r a r d Hunt

f a pub crawl is your kind of thing, you can find plenty of places around Central Ohio to walk and imbibe. But situated along 1.4 miles of Main Street in Hilliard is a quartet of establishments that enables sweet-toothed citizens of all ages to enjoy a frozen treat crawl.

Interested? Then cleanse your palate and come along as (614) treks a not-so-grueling route through an ice cream gauntlet.

Our trek begins at Whit’s Frozen Custard, located in a former barbershop just outside the Franklin County Fairgrounds. For the uninitiated, owner Judy Vitale explains that her product “is very different from ice cream.

Custard is blended with a lot less air, so it’s silkier. It’s smoother.”

Customers choose a base flavor of vanilla, chocolate or the current Weekly Flavor. Then they decide what they’d like from over three dozen ingredients (including nuts, candies and fruit) that can be added as toppings or mixed in with the custard. The indecisive can pick a suggested combination, such as the popular Buckeye Blast, a blend of Reese’s Cups, chocolate syrup and peanut butter. Shakes, floats and smoothies round out the menu along with a few sandwiches and hot dogs. Still not finding quite what you want? Whit’s will satisfy your craving. “Customers can come in here and custom-order any flavor” says Vitale. “They can get mint chocolate chip or strawberry or raspberry, any combination that they like.”

As we saunter out the door, it’s a pleasant, half-mile stroll through Old Hilliard before we arrive at our next stop, a family-owned Dairy Queen that is a local tradition. If ice cream shops could talk, this one would bear witness to over half a century of change, having gone into business when the expanding suburb’s population was only about a fifth of what it is today. During that time, this DQ has served the community as both a landmark and a gathering place. Sure, you can get your favorite Blizzard or munch on a Dilly Bar, but on any sunny afternoon you might see a gaggle of little leaguers wolfing down soft-serve cones on the front deck and engaging in the lighthearted pastime of encouraging passing motorists to honk their horns. Generations of teenagers have entered the workforce here, and countless classrooms of students have found it to be a rewarding field trip. That Dairy Queen is a Brazier location as well, but I hope you didn’t just indulge in a shredded chicken sandwich, because our next waist-expanding destination is less than 100 yards away.

42

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

P h otos by co lli ns Laatsch

In the very same space where both Dippin’ Dots and #froyo tried and failed, Diamonds Ice Cream has recently celebrated its first anniversary. The third time may be the charm for this site, now occupied by a business that boasts a bewildering variety of frozen treat options.

Although they offer over 40 flavors of ice cream, it’s the paletas that make Diamonds unique. “We have 100 flavors, all natural,” says owner Agustin Leon of the rectangular treats also known as Mexican Popsicles, “and we make it here.” Paletas de leche are cream-based and come in varieties such as blackberry and cheese, corn, and vanilla with raisins.

Customers seeking non-dairy options will be pleased with 40 flavors of the water-based paletas de agua, including cactus pear and watermelon chili, some of which feature suspended pieces of real fruit.

Leon enjoys the Hilliard community, and Diamonds has been embraced in return. He speaks proudly of accommodating a nearby school as they celebrated the last day of classes. “We served 700 kids in two days,” he smiles, pointing toward the wall at a trio of popsicle posters that the children signed and presented to him in thanks for the good service.

Now that we have some frozen goodness from three different places under our belts, it’s probably a good thing that our fourth and final stop is almost a mile down the road – we can use the walk! Located in a retail strip just beyond where Main Street becomes Hilliard-Rome Road, The Little Ice Cream Shoppe is the culmination of its owner’s fascination with small, independent ventures selling homemade ice cream.

“We just visit these little ice cream shops all over the country,” says Mark McDevitt of family vacations, “and in doing that, we only ever go to mom-and-pop places, something small and local where you can get a better feel for the neighborhood.”

McDevitt has replicated the experience with a business now in its fifth year of operation, “a hometown, homemade ice cream shop” firmly rooted in the community. “We live here in Hilliard, and we get a lot of familiar faces. I think we’ve done a spirit night for every elementary school in town.”

The Little Ice Cream Shoppe always has two dozen varieties of homemade ice cream and sorbet on hand from its rotating menu of flavors. Milkshakes, sundaes and banana splits are also available.

To keep things interesting, McDevitt adds special touches now and then, like a holiday-themed model train display or candle-lit table reservations for Valentine’s Day. What’s that you say? You’ve had enough? Yeah, us too. But fear not – having fully satisfied our sweet teeth and then some, our frozen treat crawl has reached its indulgent conclusion. Now here’s hoping our waistlines can resist the ice cream hangover.. • 614columbus.com WINTER 2017

43

Columbus’'s long-lost son touches down in the capital city

By T r av i s H o e w i s cher

Y

“Why not take pieorogi to a punk bar?"

a see, Guy Fieri just gets it.

That was his response to Matthew Majesky’s beloved Pierogi Mountain, a grungy gem tucked inside of Cafe Bourbon Street, where the shock-haired chef chopped it up with on “College-Town Champs” last month. In addition to filming with Ray Ray’s Hog Pit, Diner’s Drive-ins, and Dives cruised into one of the most unique venues in our fair city—for meals or music.

We had to sit down with Majesky and recap Columbus getting served up on a national stage:

46

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

What was your impression of Guy heading into filming? What did you expect? How was it different?

He is someone doing exactly what he wants to do and is having a great time doing it.

Were you nervous? Fairly. The crew were great with prepping us on what to expect from the process though so it was as easy as it could have been.

Have you had people you don’t know reach out to you as a result of the episode airing? Yes! Most importantly, the great-nephew of the guy who invented Gravy Master (I have a tattoo of the bottle) reached out to me and told me that seeing that made his day and then told me how it was first developed. Apparently, it was a byproduct of the candy making process.

t our We had to write ou keep recipes_ - I usually ead. everything in my h If you could co-host your own version of Triple D, what car would you drive, and what’s in the tape deck? My first car was a ’92 Dodge Duster and it had a tape deck that played everything a little bit faster than intended.

When I finally listened to the same music on other formats, it sounded weird. So anyway, I’d drive that car just for the tape deck and it would probably have a copy of Pavement’s Crooked Rain, Crooked Rain stuck in it.

Tell us what you can about the process. Did you learn anything about your operation from having to lay it out for someone else? We had to write out our recipes—I usually keep everything in my head.

What other show would you love to be featured on the Food network/Cooking Channel? Some sort of show where I can go to all of these amazing restaurants and not have to wait in line. Is there something like that?

Can you tell us a great story from the taping that didn’t make it to air? Guy called me out for not having Gravy Master in the kitchen on the day of taping. We had a bottle of Kitchen Bouquet instead. I swear they were out of it the day we went to buy it. Either way, I felt like a chump. •

You can find Matthew Majesky slinging dough at Cafe Bourbon Street (2216 Summit St.) from 5 p.m. to close Tuesday-Saturday, and 7-11 p.m. Sundays.

For more, follow @PierogiMountain. To see the episode, visit foodnetwork.com/shows/ diners-drive-ins-and-dives/episodes.

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

47

By Amanda Mahaffey

It’s full transparency with these open-kitchen concepts

R

estaurants all about sharing these days.

Community seating. Sourcing info. Family-style dining.

There are also plenty of places opening up the, typically, most hidden, yet imperative part of ant establishment—the kitchen.

All over the city, customers are invited to be a part of the entertainment and drama of the restaurant—that famed “back-of-house” environment— seeing for themselves exactly how and by whom their food is prepared.

Dining with the kitchen in view cranks the excitement and anticipation for the coming morsels and helps us foodies be a part of the action.

Think of like catching an episode of the Food Network—then actually getting a taste.

Th e Keep by col l i n s L aats c h

48

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

49

The Keep •

Toast Bar

50 W Broad St.

1028 Ridge St.

It’s hard to keep anything hidden at The Keep, where the backdrop of the historical Leveque Tower begs to keep everything in view. You can see Chef Jonathan Olsen directing French dishes, as well as a raw bar and seafood tower. The Keep is high-class cuisine and cocktails against the backdrop and history of a significant Columbus staple—and a show of its own.

Which leads us to Dan the Baker, the badass with the bread that is as close to a food star in this town as we have. Nice, quirky, simple, the show in Dan’s kitchen isn’t flashy, but damn if we don’t wanna sit in front of that little window and take it all in. A toast to you, Dan...

Pat and Gracie’s

340 E Gay St.

With the sound of pots and pans clanging, Pat and Gracie’s new downtown location serves up hearty dishes all day. Particularly bangin’ is brunch, where you can enjoy your own cast-iron skillet of Hangover Casserole or Roast Beef Hash, which you can see from a-z in their thin, long open-sliver set-up.

50

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

The Table

21 E Fifth Ave. Perhaps one of the most environmentally sustainable restaurants in C-Bus, The Table takes pride in their skillfully-sourced and prepared ingredients.

Their charcuterie boards are made with in-house cured meat and local cheeses, their bread loaves are baked daily, and the rest of their swanky menu is painstakingly sourced for the best possible display of local cuisine.

The warm atmosphere will have you feeling relaxed and connected to your plate—not to mention feeling like guests and their chefs are all invited to the same space. Dining at The Table feels more like a dinner party at a friends’ house than an upscale restaurant—and we mean that as a compliment.

GoreMade Pizza

936 N Fourth St.

Is it still an open kitchen if it’s most of the restaurant? We think so. It’s a simple menu with a handful of brews and cocktails, so you can spend most of your night decided what to chit-chat about while Nick Gore and his team cook you up something special. And by special, we do mean special: take advantage of the customization experience by choosing the “chef’s choice.” Trust us, it’s always different and never bad. Plus, you can see it all get made at a close enough distance to literally feel the heat. •

Fox in the Snow 1031 N Fourth St.

Sure, there’s no real secret to what Fox and the Snow is cooking up. (And no, we don’t get to see that brilliant breakfast sandwich constructed), but we can sit at the bar and drool over the bakers doing their thing behind the glass. Open? Open to interpretation, we suppose, but any place where you get to sample and see belongs on this list.

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

51

r e t n i W s r o i s r r Wa ucks Your A-Z guide to food tr

e cold and carts sticking out th

3DX Food Truck Soul food on wheels. Try the dirty rice, fish, and pastelillos.

Cheesy Truck Grilled cheese. Delectable takes on the ultimate comfort food.

Aloha Streatery Hawaiian and Asian fusion. Pork belly sliders on pineapple buns.

Fried.

City Classics World Wide Barbecue, sandwiches. Smoked pulled pork and monster burgers.

The Cluckwagon Chicken variations. Chicken and waffles, Nashville-style chicken thigh sandwich, plus breakfast and more.

Dos Hermanos Authentic Mexican food. Tacos, burritos… The usual suspects, done perfectly.

Dr. Mom’s Tasty Bites Mediterranean, Greek, Turkish.

Healthy options for wraps, subs, and paninis.

Angkor Asian Express Cambodian, Asian Fusion. Honey walnut shrimp, and a crab rangoon to die for.

Barroluco Argentine Latin American comfort food.

Empanadas, paella, and for dessert, churros with dulce de leche and chocolate.

Blu Olive Italian to-go. Build your own penne pasta dish.

Explorers Club Cuban, Latin American. Famous pulled pork Mofongo sandwich.

Fat Cat Food Truck Sandwiches, comfort food. Creatively fried food, as well as healthy options.

Hibachi Run Japanese, Asian fusion. “It’s all in the sauce.” Steak, chicken, or shrimp stir fry with rice and veggies.

Late Night Slice Pizza. For when you’ve got a hankerin’ for the ‘za in the in-between hours.

The Little Kitchen Vegan, comfort food. Smoothie bowls, and hot and ready veggies.

F

ood trucks are one of the best things about summer in Columbus. You can take a stroll or a bike ride up to your favorite window, and get an array of local eats, anywhere in the city. When the cold winds start to blow, some trucks head off to greener pastures, where they wait out the storm. But a select few will carry on through the cold. Don’t let the Midwestern winter put the kibosh on your mobile meals. If you’re as food truck obsessed as I am, you’re likely to brave the weather to get what you want. To make it a little easier (and warmer) on you, we’ve collected a list of all the food trucks that stay open all winter. For the ones that schedule week to week, you can find their schedules on streetfoodfinder.com.

You’re welcome. – Rachel Komich 52

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

Maanas Authentic Indian. Curry, biryani, and a smooth mango lassi.

My Little Kitchen American. Soups, salads, sandwiches, tacos, and loaded fries.

Broke Johnny Breakfast, brunch. Waffles with fried chicken, waffles with ham and cheese. Tostados and signature mole sauce.

The Burrito Bus Mexican. Choose a style of dish, your protein, and all the fixins.

Ninja Bowl Japanese street food. Rice bowls with chicken, tofu, or beef.

OH! Burgers Americana. Slider-style burgers, famous homemade chips.

Paddy Wagon Wraps, barbecue. Brisket sammies, brisket tacos, amazing grilled cheese.

Schmidt’s Sausage Truck German. Cream puffs, and sausages smothered in onions and kraut.

Seven Little Sliders Burgers, barbecue. Straight from the garden, homemade chowder and superfood slaw.

Sobremesa Latin inspired, vegan. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner, with taste, with no animal products.

Sophie’s Pierogi Pierogi, polish. Gourmet handmade pierogies with compound butter.

Pitabilites Greek. Every take on pita sandwiches, from BBQ chicken to New Delhi style.

Short North Bagel Deli “Live the steam” with a customized bagel you can’t get much fresher/faster.

Pizza Cottage Italian-American fare. Pizzas by the slice, subs and ravioli.

Sweet T’s Southern Style A sweet and salty salute to shrimp and grits and po boys.

Timmy’s Meltdown Soup and sandwiches served with sarcasm and sass.

Tortilla Street Food Fast casual Mexican in the Chipotle/BYOBurrito style.

Trucking Delicious Caribbean comfort food on the fly + housemade cream puffs.

Por’ketta Slow roasted meats, sandwiches.

All locally sourced.

Zaki Grill Lebanese and Turkish dishes; falafel wraps that run out quick!

•

Ray Ray’s Hog Pit Barbecue and all the fixins.

Redwood Wagon Comfort food, barbecue, all served in a waffle cone.

vegan options vegetarian options

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

53

o app h p

P hotos a n d Story by To mm y F e i s e l

W

Tips from a food-o-journalist on how to smash your next date night

elcome back to another edition of App Hop, where I get to go around town with my wife, Meredith, eating delicious food and you get you read about it! In case you missed the inaugural story in the last issue of Stock & Barrel, here is a quick summary on what an App Hop is, and how to do one yourself: “App hopping” is an idea my wife and I came up with years ago, and is our favorite date night. The idea is to visit three-to-five places, ordering one, two or three small plates to share—maybe add a couple drinks in there, pay the tab and move on to the next spot on the list. Think bar crawl, but for the sake of the food, and without the hangover. With a slew of new bars and restaurants continuing to open here in Columbus, it’s a great way to experience places you haven’t been before and taste different items from different chefs all in one evening.

Last issue, we hung out in the Short North, visiting Basi Italia, The Table, Tastings and Mouton. This time around I decided on Gay Street Corridor downtown, starting at The Keep in the newly renovated LeVeque Tower (not

54

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

Gay St., I know, but close enough), Latitude 41 at the Renaissance, Due Amici, and finished up at the Buckeye Bourbon Room.

Having only been in Columbus for 10 years, I never stepped foot in the LeVeque Tower until now, so I can only imagine the extent of the transformation. But, I can tell you that it’s impressive and definitely worth the visit. Our server explained that the floor where The Keep sits now used to be an immigration office, and that after opening they occasionally had to direct people to the fifth floor where the office has been moved to. I like it when a space has a story to go along with it—gives it depth and adds to the experience. After glancing at the menu, we decided on salmon ceviche, foie gras mousse, and to drink, the Leveque 75—a bubbly concoction of Watershed Bourbon Barrel Gin, lemon, simple syrup and cava. I especially liked the port gelee atop the mousse. The sweetness of the port gelee helped tie everything together into tasty bites on top of the grilled baguette. Then, in true Meredith form, she ordered the crepes dessert after our waiter recommended them, and I’m glad we did! The warm sweet filling was delicious and was our favorite bite of the night so far.

Our second stop took us over to Latitude 41 at the Renaissance Hotel on Gay and 3rd. While it’s true that the bar area is cooler in decor than the main dining room, the food and service at both sides of the lobby are equally appealing. Here, I ordered a traditional manhattan while deciding on the crispy brussel sprouts and the warm beet salad. Both dishes feature perfect flavor combinations; small but thick pieces of Benton’s Bacon accompany the roasted brussel sprouts and caraway seeds and then roasted fennel to go with the warm beets with scattered Blue Jacket Dairy chevre cheese. It’s the kind of comfort food that I love to have this time of year.

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

55

A quick walk down the street took us to our third stop, Due Amici. A long time favorite of ours, we’ve been going to Jeff Mathes’s contemporary Italian restaurant for years. Enjoying the ambiance and the incredible service here is nothing new. What is new, however, are several new menu items including ones we tried that night. I’m a sucker for lamb, and the New Zealand lamb chops were just fantastic. Meaty and tender chops served on top of an interestingly flavored fig slaw that was sweet and subtle. The fried lobster ravioli is a fun twist on a traditionally delicate dish. The spicy tomato butter sauce has the right amount of kick to make you notice it, but without having to reach for a glass of water. It goes great with the soy braised beef on top of the herb breaded ravioli. The winner of the night for me though, was the baked brie bruschetta. Initially I was worried the focaccia bread would be too filling (we still had one more spot to hit before the night was over, after all), but it wasn’t. It was light and airy, soaking up the flavors of the olive tapenade. As if that wasn’t enough deliciousness, the white truffle honey made me want to lick the plate clean. A nice glass of 2014 Marchesi Biscardo was a nice choice, especially with the lamb.

56

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

Rounding out the evening was Buckeye Bourbon House for dessert and one more round. Inside the converted lobby of the Marriott Residence Inn, the space is welcoming—even if you’re not a bourbon drinker. And if you are, this place is a gold mine.

The bartender hooked me up with a classic Old Fashioned, and for Meredith (who isn’t a bourbon girl) a variation on an Aviation, complete with a roasted dehydrated lime and Absinthe spritz. The bourbon caramel on the cheesecake and pecan pie was quite tasty. •

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

57

Meals on Wheels This winter’s getaway theme: your gut

T

he sheer number of restaurants in Columbus to try—new and old—is mind-bending.

Hell, you could fill up a whole magazine just talking about the food and drink in this city (and we do).

Still, sometimes getting outta Dodge is just what the diner ordered.

There are many little mom and pop shops and historical spots that a local can travel to for an evening of dining in, or a shopping excursion to bring ingredients and goodies back to the capital city. They are all within the border of the heart of it all, and some are just a quick jaunt. Join us as we round up some gastro-getaways for your date night, Sunday brunch, or weekend escapade.

Roadside There are some shopping/ eating experiences that are worth driving for. (We’re looking at you, Ikea.) There’s nothing like a little country store stroll in the summer, or getting gifts from your friends from a quaint little spot. These places are great for getting a bite for yourself, and bringing some home for a friend. A roadside produce stand that eventually grew into a six-figure square-footage international market? Thanks Jungle Jim’s, we’ll be seeing ya in Fairfield.

How can you not wanna visit a place like Spoon Market &

58

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

Deli in Wooster, that started with 14 seats and now offers 29 craft beer brands? A one-stop bridal shop, a reconstructed railroad station, and item called “Bacon Cheeseburger Salad”?

I am already in the car, headed to Unusual Junction in West Lafayette and its Lava Rock Grill. My best travel advice, in six words: “Grandpa’s Cheesebarn, Ashland. Change/ shorten life.” Wanna go real country? Go dine “where the cows were kept, farmhands worked, and friends gathered after a hard day’s work,” at The Barn Restaurant in Smithville.

Destination Dining Sometimes you want a birthday weekend getaway for your honey, and sometimes, you want a pot of gold at the end of your mini-road-trip rainbow.

It’s worth it to treat yo self once in awhile, and these Ohio spots can deliver.

Continuously operating since 1803, The Golden Lamb Inn in Lebanon is Ohio’s longest continually operating business. Stay at the Inn overnight, so you can enjoy The Black Horse Tavern to your heart’s (and stomach’s) content. The Pine Club in Dayton was named one of the Top Two Steakhouses in the country by the Food Network. Who’s the other one? WHO CARES. The “W” in Pier W (left) in Lakewood is for, as far as we’re concerned—wonder.

A sunset meal suspended

over Lake Erie is not your usual response to “what did you do this weekend? Ever felt like eating a farm-fresh meal at the site of Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall’s wedding? We know the answer: it’s Malabar Farm Restaurant in Lucas, it’s also a state park, and you can visit Malabar Farm just up the road. The former Mount Vernon “candyland” that is the Alcove Tavern has upscale fare and and an upstairs dinner theatre. Enjoy beautiful lodging, and horses that roam the expansive grounds at Guggisberg Swiss Inn in Millersberg. Chalet in the Valley Restaurant is within walking distance, as well as Doughty Glen Winery. These spots are special occasion destinations that are decidedly a little on the fancy side.

Diners, Drive-ins … Trains?

As history’s heavy hitters, this group has one thing in common: A great story. Once something has withstood the test of time, it’s worth the drive to check it out for yourself. Sure, there’s a real novelty to the newest gastrobrewpub in a hip part of town, but sometimes you get an itch that only classic Americana can scratch.

These spots are strides beyond greasy spoon, but they are as unpretentious as they come. Hats off to Buckeye Express Diner in Bellville for the simplest, most succinct slogan in all of food: “We provide homemade comfort food in an Ohio themed train car!” Try to trackdown the Mothman in Pomeroy and then wash down the adventure with a “Chum Bucket” full of peel and eat shrimp at Court Street Grill.

Go Back to the Future by traveling deep south down High Street for a retro meal at Diner 23 in Waverly, where every single menu item is under 10 bucks. The first Crabill’s hamburger was served in 1927 out of a barn in Urbana for a nickel.

The gas is more expensive, but the burger not much.

You’ll never forget the “Hungarian hot dog” at the original Tony Packo’s in Toledo. The Fork and Finger in Portsmouth is proof that some of the best food comes from a menu scrawled on a whiteboard, day-of. Pull your car up to The Spot to Eat’s car-hop service for greasy goodness—and make sure to take a pie or two for the road.

At the Nutcracker Family Restaurant in Pataskala, the bacon-wrapped meatloaf embraces an old-school philosophy on cholesterol. •

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

59

60

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

Culinary Itinerary Home-Cooking from our Sister Cities

By J. R . M c M i l l a n p hotos by Tom m y F ei s el

reater Columbus Sister Cities organizes excursions and exchanges within our growing global family, but sharing in these connections doesn’t necessarily require a suitcase and a passport.

Common bonds wait in the restaurant kitchens of some of our newest neighbors and established immigrants who share their heritage everyday as a vital part of the city’s enviable ethnic food scene.

Here are 10 easily missed, but absolutely essential, destinations for diners interested in expanding their culinary palate and cultural perspective.

G

Seville, Spain Sidebar • 122 E Main St. Spain is perhaps the most ethnically complex country in Europe, and Seville is no exception. The architecture, industry, and cuisine all offer historical hints to the city’s past. As close to Morocco as it is to Portugal, you can taste the convergence of cultures with every bite. Sidebar’s Pan-Atlantic menu hints at the shared history as well.

Seville is hardly known for its vegetarian fare, but espinacas con garbanzos are a notable exception. The Andalusian dish features stewed spinach and chickpeas, with flavors that reflect both the Jewish and Moorish roots of the tapas standard. Their Galician-style octopus and potatoes seasoned with Spanish paprika are equally authentic.

Accra, Ghana Drelyse • 1911 Tamarack Circle In Accra’s expansive, open-air Makola Market, among the more popular fare is grilled tilapia. Though the Ghanaian capital city sits on the Gulf of Guinea, the freshwater fish remains a local favorite.

Drelyse credibly captures the spirit and hospitality of Ghanaian cuisine. Blackened and blistered, onions and peppers top the crispy tilapia while hints of garlic and ginger accent the flaky flesh.

Okra stew with either crab or beef is served with banku, a paste of fermented cornmeal and cassava, or fufu, a dough of plantain and cassava flour. Both are starchy staples pinched off and eaten like deconstructed, do-it-yourself dumplings.

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

61

Curitiba, Brazil Estilo Brazil • 5818 Columbus Square Skip those all-you-can-eat steakhouse chains if you want a true taste of Brazil. In Curitiba, you’ll find the best local restaurants by looking for a sign out front reading “por quilo”, or per kilo. Though Portuguese is still spoken by the staff, this small strip mall grocery also offers an ever-changing cafeteria of authentic dishes sold “by the pound”. Fried plantains, seasoned sausage, and coxinhas, peculiar pear-shaped chicken croquettes, are standards complemented by daily specials. Though the costela com mandioca, or slow-cooked beef rib and cassava, are a worthy Wednesday special, don’t miss Saturday for feijoada, a spicy black bean and pork stew considered the national dish.

Dresden, Germany Valters at the Maennerchor • 976 S High St. When immigrants from Germany settled in Columbus in the mid1800s, they drew architectural inspiration from their homeland, making German Village one of the city’s most distinctive neighborhoods. The seamless blend of homes, businesses, galleries, and restaurants connected by cobblestone streets is still reminiscent of modern-day Dresden. Pork is preferred over beef amongst the German people, and Valters offers several traditional dishes in the boisterous bier garten setting embraced by both state capitals. Start with the schnitzel and spätzle, lightly-breaded, pan-fried pork cutlets with crinkly egg noodles common in Eastern Europe comfort food— or ignore that penchant for pork and order the hearty sauerbraten, a German-style pot roast served with a side of red cabbage.

Genoa, Italy Claudiana • 8475 Sancus Blvd.

Though perhaps best known for its pesto, Genoa evolved from a small fishing village that grew through the surrounding hillsides into a culinary capital anchored by the charm of an old world port.

Claudiana offers the intimacy of a tiny Italian family restaurant, easily undiscovered in a northside strip. Though familiar fare abounds, the seafood selection is the “reel” catch. Red snapper with a creamy arragosta sauce of diced shrimp, spinach, and tomato over fresh pasta for the fish folks—or the owner’s favorite, spaghetti alla vongole, homemade pasta complemented with clam meat, garlic, shallots, red pepper, and tomatoes tossed in olive oil and white wine.

Hefei, China Q2 Bistro • 472 Polaris Parkway, Westerville Most Americans are only acquainted with the western incarnations of Chinese take-out. But regional delicacies are as distinct and diverse as those found in the US. Unlike those fast food phonies, Hefei is home to Anhui cuisine, one of the “Eight Cuisines” of China—renown for the unique flavors that come from roasting instead of frying. Though Q2 Bistro’s fusion menu still offers excellent executions of your fried favorites, their signature rice pots are akin to clay-pot cooking, a traditional Chinese preparation method. Custom combinations of seasoned chicken, pork, beef, and seafood paired with vegetables and steamed rice suit any preference.

But the standout dish is still the fork-tender roast duck.

62

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

64

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

Herzliya, Israel Olive Tree • 3185 Hilliard Rome Rd., Hilliard At a glance, the beachfront city of Herzliya wouldn’t seem to have much in common with Columbus. But look deeper and you’ll find a community with frequent festivals, several sports teams, fascinated by film, and rich with restaurants. Olive Tree offers a mix of Mediterranean and Middle East influences for lunch and dinner daily, but the Sunday brunch should not be missed. Stay for shakshuka, an iron skillet of eggs over-easy still simmering in a savory tomato stew, served with pita points to dip in the runny yolks. For those on the go, try the sabich—a breakfast sandwich with grilled eggplant, sliced hard-boiled egg, potatoes, Israeli salad, and a touch of tahini.

Odense, Denmark Toast Bar • 1028 Ridge St. First, forget the Danish. The popular pastry is actually Austrian.

Second, scratch the aebelskabels as well. Alice’s popular pancake ball truck left for California this summer. And, of course, Denmark on High is a cocktail bar. What’s a Dane to do? Fortunately, there’s still a decidedly Danish dish sometimes available at an unlikely destination. Dan the Baker’s elusive Friday-Saturday-Sunday Toast Bar is the only place in Columbus serving smørrebrød, the openface sandwich sensation, and the French variation called a tartine. If you are very lucky, Dan will surprise you with ham and asparagus, shiitake and oyster, or Gruyère and roasted tomato on a toasty slice of dense sourdough.

Ahmedabad, India Dakshin • 5251 N Hamilton Rd., 8380 N High St. Fortunately, Columbus has no shortage of impressive Indian eateries. But for an original Gujarati experience, newcomer Dakshin offers a true taste of Ahmedabad. Advertised as a “lunch buffet,” the nearest American metaphor, it’s not exactly what most might expect. Thali, named for the large metal platter on which the meal is served, allows diners to choose from a variety of entrées (both meat and vegetarian) and the chef decides the rest. The mix of dals, chutneys, rice, yogurt, and naan is also a feast for the eyes, designed to offer a balance of six tastes (sweet, salty, bitter, sour, astringent, and spicy) all on one plate.

Tainan City, Taiwan Chinese Beef Noodle Soup • 10 E Twelfth Ave. Taiwan is a nexus of Asian and Western cultures. Despite an emphasis on seafood due to limited land for livestock, beef noodle soup is among the most popular and pervasive dishes. If there were a contest in Columbus for on-the-nose restaurant names, the tiny campus counter with a dozen seats cleverly called “Chinese Beef Noodle Soup” would win the prize. Thin-sliced beef and homemade noodles in a savory broth with fresh spinach, hard-boiled egg, and a sprinkle of sesame seeds sounds deceptively simple, but the dish is revered for a reason. For the more adventurous, try the fried pork intestines (or Chinese chitterlings) for something you won’t find at the average carryout. • For more about our sister cities, visit columbussistercities.com.

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

65

Fa m i ly J e w e l For the Jeff Ruby clan, steak is in the blood

By J. R . M c Mi l l a n • p h otos by to mmy f e i s e l

T

he line to get in the city’s newest hot spot already stretched down the sidewalk, so I discreetly slipped in the side door. Down some stairs and through the commotion of the kitchen, I was politely ushered into the heart of the restaurant where the owner eagerly waited to greet me with a firm handshake and the best table in the house.

It wasn’t quite the Copacabana scene from Goodfellas, but it was damn close.

Even from across a room, Jeff Ruby is larger than life. With an unmistakable swagger and swirl of smoke, he conducted an orchestra of carpenters and electricians like woodwinds and brass, using his cigar as a baton to maintain the brisk tempo.

Less than a month from opening, his latest signature steakhouse in downtown Columbus was far from finished. It was a symphony of chaos.

“Columbus is a city we’ve had our eyes on for a long time,” said Ruby, whose ominous silhouette and brash persona may seem at odds with the requisites of a restaurateur. He’s more of a midwestern

66

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

wiseguy. But it’s that stubborn, straight-shooting style that is surely behind his acclaim, not an impediment. “It’s close to our headquarters so we can pay close attention to it. We don’t like to go far from home.

That’s when quality suffers.”

Plans to open at Easton were scuttled by Smith & Wollensky, and efforts to move into the empty Morton’s location also fell through. But that closing, and the western migration of Hollywood Casino’s Final Cut left a void for a steakhouse downtown Ruby was ready to fill.

“People from Columbus have been supporting our restaurants in Cincinnati for decades. They’ve been telling us for years to open in Columbus,” Ruby noted. “They don’t come to our restaurants because they’re hungry. They can go to the refrigerator. There is a sense of experience here.”

That “experience,” even in a city like Columbus with a booming restaurant scene, isn’t always enough. Generational and economic trends are conspiring against institutions and cultural rituals that used to define

68

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

our social interactions. Uber Eats, Door Dash, and a dozen similar services are becoming to the restaurants business what Netflix and Redbox have to movie theaters. Both industries are struggling just to get people off the couch.

The analogy, and urgency, doesn’t escape Ruby.

“The restaurant business, in my view, is living theater. Everyday a curtain goes up and you have a new audience. I named my company Jeff Ruby Culinary Entertainment because we’re in the entertainment business,” he said. “When we open a new restaurant, we have a casting call. We audition our employees. Everyone has a role. I tell a story with every restaurant.”

That story certainly didn’t spare any expense in the props department or set dressing either. Even those familiar with the space wouldn’t recognize it. The former 89 Fish & Grill, Michael O’Toole’s Restaurant & Bar, and a Damon’s Grill before that, all seem as sparsely appointed as a college dorm room by comparison.

“Our audience digests the ambiance with every sip of wine and every bite of food,” Ruby chided. “I had an unlimited budget, and I exceeded it.”

A grand statement for certain, but no less grand than the tin ceilings and tufted seats with old wood charm and old world touches on every surface. Walking through the still incomplete dining space, Ruby was eager and easily able to tell the backstory of every fixture and finish. From the stained glass windows to the wall sconces, Ruby’s a bit of an auction enthusiast, with some pieces purchased years ago and squirreled away in a warehouse waiting for just the right spot in the just the right restaurant.

If you want to know when and where the chandelier over your table was procured, the name of the Vermont electrician who rewired it, and the tiny Chicago company that restored the crystal to its original luster, just ask Jeff — he can probably tell you off the top of his head.

Lights may dim as they grow older, but Ruby has not.

For those unfamiliar with Ruby, he’s kind of a big deal. So much so, it’s hard to know exactly how big. He says he’s the first to put a sushi bar in a steakhouse in the 1980s, a point of pride illustrated as he was interrupted to personally decide the exact sequence of the tiles behind the sushi bar in the middle of our conversation.

He also claims he coined the term “servers assistants” for busboys as well, now industry standard jargon for fine dining establishments.

Whether or not he used to have the pull to get players traded from the Cincinnati Reds, or is personally responsible for getting the band Survivor played on the radio (both assertions from his autobiography) remains unclear. But in an industry of imitators, there is no denying Ruby is an original without equal.

“Ballplayers, babes, businessmen, barflies, blue bloods, and blue hairs,” is how he described the diverse clientele of his earlier restaurants, where guests wearing

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

69

“We dry-aged our steaks ... other steakhouses dry-aged their waiters.” blue jeans would pull up in a Rolls Royce because the atmosphere defied the stuffy conventions of other fine dining restaurants. “We dry-aged our own steaks on the premises, other steakhouses dry-aged their waiters.”

Serving French fare, seafood, sushi, and comfort food classics all on the same menu made each restaurant surprisingly approachable. They were never, as Ruby put it, “steak it, or leave it”—they were familiar, but with fanfare.

“Our macaroni and cheese has five imported cheeses, and was named the best mac and cheese in America by Food Network,” Ruby revealed. “We worked five years on the recipe.”

That reputation for unapologetic precision is why thousands of applications were winnowed down to roughly 80 positions at the new Columbus location. Ruby insists on the best steaks and the best staff, with training taking them to Cincinnati to ensure the people are as well prepared as the dishes themselves.

“The culinary staff—the entire staff—is the best we’ve put together in any city where we’ve opened,” Ruby boasted, and he would know. As we toured the various dining rooms, upstairs and downstairs, he called every tradesman and employee by name, though everyone simply addressed him as “Mr. Ruby.” By the time we reached the kitchen, still in the midst of construction, a handful of staff were wrapping up an order of subs for lunch. Ruby joined in and offered to pick up the bill—but made it clear the place better get his order right, or else. He’s still a Jersey boy at heart, never shying away from an Italian sub or a knuckle sandwich.

The timing of the Columbus expansion also offers some serendipity. The aging but active Ruby—or as his family calls him, J.R.—is facing the same challenge as any small family restaurant. That’s why his kids are stepping in while they still have the opportunity to learn from their father and preserve the legacy of the family business.

“I never knew my father,” he explained. “My mother was married four times. I called them my ‘four fathers,’ but none were my biological father. I didn’t know who he was until I was a senior in high school.”

After opening the Waterfront, Ruby made what was likely his most unexpected business move amid overwhelming success: he stopped opening restaurants.

“I wanted to see my kids grow before I saw my company grow,” he said. “I wanted to be a father. I wanted to wait for them to grow up.”

“It’s too bad I don’t have as many brothers as we have restaurants,” laughed Britney Ruby Miller, daughter and now president of Jeff Ruby Culinary entertainment.

Though she admits sometimes their conversations tend to revolve around work, everyone makes extra efforts to ensure they do more than just talk shop. “It’s very easy to get so consumed with work that we forget about what’s most important—our relationships.”

Son Brandon, now corporate director of training has seen this on the menu for years.

“From the time I was able to even recall, I wanted to be a 70

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

restaurateur like my father. I even wrote it down on a list of questions in first or second grade, but did not spell restaurateur correctly—nor was I close,” he said.

Dillon, the youngest of the three who ended up taking over at the Nashville location after the general manager didn’t work out, is excited to see how something new plays out in Columbus.

“Because we’re opening a steakhouse that is so completely different than what anyone in this town has ever seen before, that’s a huge risk. The fact that we took the risk and see it paying off with all the success we have had in the past year is definitely a pleasant surprise.”

Now, with the Ruby clan all grown up, Jeff got to have his steak and eat it, too. He’s maintained a great relationship with his kids— and now, they’re the core of his team professionally.

“I waited for my kids to grow up before expanding the business,” he said. “Now they aren’t just the reason I want to expand. They are the reason we can expand.”

The new Jeff Ruby Steakhouse is open at 89 E Nationwide Blvd. For more, visit jeffruby.com.

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

71

Pie in the Sky The 411 on 451’s crazy pizza whiskey

W

e’ve spent much of our adult lives around pizza and whiskey, yet, somehow Chad Kessler is currently the only one we know savvy enough smash them together.

The owner/artist/skater/alchemist behind Columbus craft distillery is proudly showing off his latest one-off creation, the Pizza Pie’Chuga, a collaboration with kindred kooks, Mikey’s Late Night Slice—and we’re all about it.

Mikey’s has even riffed a whole cocktail menu from the product—including the obvious bloody mary and a surprisingly tasty Margarita pizza cocktail.

While the rest of Columbus gets their greasy hands on a new spirit, we sat down with Kessler to pick apart how the pie came together:

72

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

PHOTOS BY COLLINS LAATSCH

The idea comes from mezcal—basically tequila’s smoky great grandfather. There’s a style called pechuga which they make down in the rural parts of Mexico for special occasions. They will put fruits and seasonal nuts in the still and then hang a chicken from the neck of the still. That fat will cook and render and fall down into it. The meatiness of the chicken then offsets the sweetness of the fruit. So my idea was that… except pizza. So … Pizza Pie’Chuga.

I reached out to Mikey’s right away because they do offthe-wall pizzas, and I love their stuff. Everybody knows who Mikey’s is, but hardly anyone knows who we are. So we wanted to do something collaborative and co-branding to help get our name out there.

It was surprisingly easy! I got really lucky. One day I went and bought some Mikey’s, threw a couple slices in the still (ate a slice, obviously), just in some white whiskey. I got a hint of pizza but not enough. I was working on gin at the same time, so I asked myself, “what are the base flavors of pizza?” I added sundried tomato, garlic, basil, pepperoni, and parmesan, and the first test batch I did came out perfect!

The whole goal when I started this was to make stuff that others weren’t making. I don’t want to make more bourbon; I don’t want to make more vodka. I think there is enough of that out there. So we are small enough, and we don’t owe any investors any money. Just to get creative, play around, make new styles of things has been the best part.

We are taking it slow. We aren’t trying to grow too big for our britches. The pizza whiskey was the first of the one-off products we are wanting to do. Being small, we have our six core products—two whiskeys, two rums, a gin, and an absinthe. Those we are always going to make, but we can take time away from production to make one-off products. The first one I wanted to be completely out there, but we will definitely be making some more normal stuff.

You can score a glass (or shot) of this legendary whiskey at any of Mikey’s Late Night Slice locations, and if you happen to love it enough, you can pick up a bottle of it at 451 Spirits headquarters (590 Oakland Park Ave.)

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

73

The Men of St. James stand for something— wearing next to nothing

By Jeni Ruisch • Stephanie Craddock Sherwood 74

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

Y

ou can thank Donald Trump for the newest, sexiest all-dude calendar in Columbus.

He’d certainly hate a pinup calendar full of hairy bar regulars—whose proceeds support women’s reproductive health—which is exactly why we love it.

Michelle Hill, owner of the St. James Tavern has galvanized her activist spirit in the form of The Men of St. James, a charity calendar benefitting Women Have Options.

The 2017 version raised $4000 and their goal this year is $5000.

“Last year after the election when the country decided to elect a lifelong misogynist as Commander in Chief, many people felt angry, sad, helpless, and frightened for the future,” Hill said. “I decided that we needed to come together to create something positive to help push back against the dark cloud of oppression.

Historically women have been objectified for the profit of men, so I thought it would be appropriate to flip that around for once and have men shedding their shirts to raise money for a women's cause.”

Photographed by WHO’s Stephanie Craddock Sherwood (another St. James regular), the calendar represents Columbus’s community spirit to a T: with a sense of purpose, a sense of humor—and a little bit of leg.

Still, Hill says, the immediate reactions to the calendar from its subjects were mixed.

“Just as with women, men have selfesteem and body image issues,” she said.

“Sexy comes in all shapes and sizes and I think that this project helped some of them see that. Many were on board immediately, but a few were shy about being photographed shirtless. Once I prodded a bit and emphasized the importance of the cause, they jumped into it, perhaps blushing along the way. Sometimes their wife, girlfriend or partner helped give an extra nudge of encouragement as well. They've all been great sports about it. Once the day of the photo shoot comes though and they get a couple drinks in them, everyone loosens up and has a good time.”

Now that they’re all on-board—and nearly in the nude—we prodded further with the Men of the St. James, presenting all the boy toys with the legendary Official Playboy Playmate Questionnaire. The results are sometimes funny, sometimes sweet, but always ... (sexy?). Just like our favorite men about town.

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

75

Mr. March Mr. April What are your turn-ons?

Mr. June: I really like it when my wife is nice to me, and also when she doesn't make fun of me when I cry during movies ... really gets me going Mr. July: A girl that puts ketchup on her scrambled eggs Mr. October: Vodka, pizza, basketball Mr December: Maturity Mr. September: Quick wit and a sense of humor

What are your turnoffs?

Mr. July: A distaste for ketchup Mr. April: Neoliberal economic policy, austerity, bourgeois individualism, mixed-use condominium developments Mr. October: Traffic, mean people Mr. December: Immaturity Mr. September: Prejudgers—you don’t know me

Pop culture crush?

Mr. June Mr.July

Bucket list musts?

Mr. July: Sing backup vocals for Stevie Wonder Mr. December: Hike the highlands of Scotland, see most of Europe Mr. April: Seizing the means of production Mr. March: Drive a vintage van across the country Mr. September: Saint Martin Mr. June: If I’m getting a bucket it needs to have a comfortable grip, sturdy handle joints, and at least a five-gallon capacity

Describe yourself in a nutshell…?

Mr. December: I’m a nature lover and artist who can’t seem to shut his brain off sometimes.

Mr. October: A shorter Greg Kinnear ... or William H. Macy Mr. September: Goofy and serious, extremely motivated and competitive; passionate Mr. March: Trouble Mr. June: OH MY GOD I CAN'T BREATHE I AM TRAPPED IN THIS... WHAT IS THIS A CASHEW?? HOW DID THIS HAPPEN

What makes a [man] sexy?

Mr. July: Willie Nelson Mr. June: Being aware that being a person is inherently ridiculous and that they shouldn't take themselves very seriously ... also butts

Mr. April: Oscar Isaac Mr. March: Kim Gordon Mr. October: Julia Louis-Dreyfus Mr. December: Linda Carter Mr. September: Marisa Tomei

guilty pleasure?

Mr. July: A 1993 Ford Aerostar XL five-speed manual Mr. March: A good attitude Mr. October: Confidence .. is that an OK answer?

Mr. December: Not being a douche

My advice...

Mr. July: White Castle Mr. March: I got no shame in my game!

Mr. September: Epoisses and foie gras in the same night Mr. October: Taylor Swift 76

Mr. April: Learn what infuriates the various bureaucracies to which you are beholden, then only do those things in secret Mr. March: Don’t take yourself too seriously!

Mr. September: Don’t wear skinny jeans

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

Mr.September Mr. December Recipe for love?

Mr. June: Trust, honesty and transparency are key ... if you really want to make it work for the long haul, it’s like a business partnership, but where you share a shower with your business partner Mr. July: Cook for each other, travel together, and party together Mr. April: Cortisol + whiskey Mr. December: Understanding, doing sweet things for each other, affection Mr. October: Vodka, pizza, basketball

Being good in bed means ...

Mr. June: You stay asleep the entire time until your alarm goes off Mr. April: Whatever your partner thinks it means Mr. October: Keeping her awake just late enough and not waking her up too early Mr. December: Making sure you are taking care of your partner’s needs Mr. September: Ensuring you are not alone in bed is the first step

Life tip...

Mr. June: Just be nice to people man—it’s one of the easier things you can get right Mr. October: On your deathbed, you won't regret eating that last slice of pizza Mr. December: Get out and enjoy the beauty in nature; take in the air and be glad you are still alive … also, be thankful for the people in your life and let them know Mr. September: Make time to laugh out loud often … preferably at yourself Mr. April: Only take federal student loans • Calendars ($20 with 100 percent of the proceeds going to Women Have Options) are available for purchase at St. James Tavern, Wholly Craft, What The Rock? and at womenhaveoptions.org.

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

77

Beyond

Beer

The suds scene is closing the local loop

By J. R . M c M i l l a n p hotos by Br i a n Ka i s er

78

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

B

eer might just be the perfect gift. Unlike the kitchen kitsch, no-good knickknacks, and other wrapped crap we tend to exchange, beer is simply shared and enjoyed, leaving nothing behind but fond memories and a few bottles or cans in the recycling bin.

But there are also hidden perks to one of our city’s most pervasive beverages, personal relationships that become partnerships and interconnected industries that make the unseen economic impact of beer more than just a smooth pour or six-pack.

“There are a lot of local businesses I work with as a brewer.

We’re working with One Line Coffee in the Short North,” explained Chris Davison, head brewer at Wolf’s Ridge Brewing. “Just for the brewery, we order hundreds of pounds of coffee for all of the beers we do. The restaurant uses some, too. and we cross-promote each other. I know sometimes when I walk in, their guys are wearing our shirts. They send customers our way and vice versa.”

Agricultural infusions aren’t as ordinary as they used to be.

Brewers often trade finished product with the suppliers of some of their unexpected ingredients. Wolf’s Ridge exchanges ale with a local pumpkin producer for their supply of the seasonal gourd that goes into the beer. There was also a blueberry barter that didn’t quite work out this year, which Davison hopes to revisit next summer.

Then there’s the matter of the mash, the mix of spent grain that quickly rots if left unattended. Wolf’s Ridge is one of many local breweries that has standing arrangements with local farmers who gladly pick up the mash to feed their livestock. The next time you order a local burger, bratwurst, or barbeque, you’re likely supporting your local brewery as well.

“As a brewer, it’s great not to see it go in a dumpster or landfill.

It’s free waste removal for us, and free feed for them,” he noted, as well as the less formal exchanges that belie the food and beverage business. “We’ll throw them a six-pack here and there and they’ll bring us some eggs. It’s a reciprocal relationship.”

Brewing is also more than just what goes in a beer. It’s also what the beer goes in. Those woody and boozy accents aren’t accidents.

“We get almost all of our brewing barrels from Watershed. We get fresh barrels when a lot of breweries can’t,” Davison added, though there are some exceptions.

“Today in our taproom we have an event where I took our Coconut Howling Moon Imperial IPA and we aged it in a rum barrel from a little local distillery called 451 Spirits. I didn’t even know they existed until a few months ago,” Davison admitted. “The distiller came in to talk to me and said, ‘Hey, we’re really small, fairly young, and a lot of people don’t know much about us—so I want to give you a barrel for free if you’ll age a beer in it and promote us on social media.’ We took a chance and the beer came out really great, so we’ll be serving it in the taproom today along with some cocktails made from their spirits.” ►

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

79

Smaller brewers sometimes have an edge over larger ones when it comes to expensive or exclusive ingredients. Bigger batches inherently mean more raw material, which is often in scarce supply.

“When we buy, we typically need bulk—not consumer, or even restaurant quantities. I was recently looking for 20 gallons of local honey and the supplier for the restaurant found a source, but told us it would be two-tofour weeks and would be insanely expensive,” he explained. “We did source 40 gallons of maple syrup from Chardon, Ohio for a beer, and it was like $1500. One of the things we’re still struggling to measure is the premium for local ingredients. It’s hard to tell sometimes what value people put on that connection.”

Amy Noltemeyer wasn’t trying to tap into the loyalty of the local beer scene when she founded Growlers Dog Bones. She was just struggling to find a meaningful occupation for her son with autism. But what started as a part-time project was quickly embraced by area brewers, most of whom now sell the bags of beer-based dog bones in their taprooms.

Growlers Dog Bones are made from a recipe of beer mash, peanut butter, eggs, and rice flour, then pressed, prepared, and packaged by teams of students and young adults with developmental challenges that pose barriers to employment.

“Even when we’re not selling back to the breweries, when I go to the farmers markets, people want to know what we’re all about,” Noltemeyer explained. “Having the names of each brewery and baker on the bags gets 80

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

their attention and sets us apart.”

That connection proved crucial in establishing the authenticity of the brand—both in the name recognition of the breweries by prospective customers and the personal recognition it creates for the bakers, who often start through one of several local transition-to-work programs. The social enterprise has set up shop at the Food Fort, an innovative incubator for culinary entrepreneurs with a similar mission to serve communities that also lack adequate opportunities.

“We really do market every single brewery. They are the ones who fill our buckets,” she said. “Occasionally, I’ll meet someone who is very enthusiastic about our product and the opportunities we create, who then says, ‘But I don’t have a dog?’ I tell them, ‘All of these breweries support us, so if you want to support us, you should support them.’”

Asked whether the sale of some beer bones over others was due to the preference of the people or the preference of their dogs, she was initially confident, then quite coy.

“I can tell you one of our bakers tasted them all and he says they’re pretty much the same,” Noltemeyer chuckled. “I’ve tried them, too. From one wet barley to another, they really do taste about the same. But with dogs—I don’t know for sure.” • For more, visit wolfsridgebrewing.com or growlersdogbones.org.

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

81

Pucker Up The sour beer craze is here to stay

A

By Da n n y H a m e n • P h otos by M e g a n L e i g h B a r n a r d

few centuries ago, sour beer was just called beer. In those days, all beers were inherently sour due to the lack of proper sanitation practices that were eventually developed to keep extra yeast and bacteria out. That yeasty bacteria was and still is the very essence of what gives sour beer their characteristic tart flavor. Remember that Miller Light you found that had been left chilling in your fridge well beyond its expiration date? Remember how it tasted sour? This is why.

In recent years, there has been an unlikely paradigm shift as to where sour beer fits into our cultural hierarchy, once considered a soiled product, now hailed as an artisan achievement. Many contemporary brewers would still serve beer that had mistakenly gone sour as a happy accident, as long as it still tasted good, typically adding fruit during fermentation to compliment the acidic flavor.

These unintended successes have created a movement of sour beer lovers, inspiring many brewers to start making sour beers on purpose.

“There has been this weird cultural shift because fruity 82

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

beer used to have a negative connotation. When you had a beer that was bad, you added fruit to it to cover that up. For me, I take the best beers that I have and add fruit to them.”

Meet Joshua Martinez, a thirsty young brewer from San Diego. With a bag full of brewing knowledge gained from Ethereal Brewing operating out of Lexington, he decided to start a business in Columbus dedicated to sour beers, Pretentious Barrel House.

“It was more of an exploration than anything else.

There are not a lot of ‘experts’ on sour beer. There are a lot of people that are really good at it, but no one has been doing it for very long in America,” he said. “I always tell everyone that I just kind of make it up as I go. Fortunately, everything is going well, but I know as much about what I am doing as much as any other brewer will tell you—that you are learning as you go, everyday.”

The good news for sourheads is that any beer can be sour, leaving room for myriad variety of varieties and flavor profiles. In homage to his grand opening just November, we thought we would take you on a sour beer tour around the city, highlighting an array of Columbus brewers who are playing around with the sour beer concept.

Sybarite W/ Spice

Pretentious Barrel House • 745 Taylor Ave. Literally meaning a person who is self-indulgent in their fondness for sensuous luxury, the Sybarite w/ Spice is the perfect example of how rich and sumptuous sours can be, as well as showing off the broad range of flavors you can achieve when brewing sour beer. Starting with their base sour red ale, Martinez adds an array of holiday spices like nutmeg and cinnamon to create a complex yet balanced holiday spiced beer. It’s not overwhelmingly sweet, rather the notes of nutmeg resonate gently on the palate, pairing well with the citrusy bite of flavor.

The beer is light and airy, making for a crisp, refreshing, and accessible foray into the world of sours.

Gose

Wolf’s Ridge • 215 N Fourth St. Originating from Goslar, Germany, a Gose style beer is brewed with at least half of the grain bill being malted wheat, providing a cloudy yellow color, a refreshing twang, and a salty finish.

Wolf Ridge’s take on the classic sour has a citrusy nose with a touch of rose petals, a foggy straw color, and a lemony bite.

The beer is crisp and live-bodied, the tartness evened out by the saltiness of the malted wheat, making for a refreshingly balanced sour beer. Unfortunately, Wolf’s Ridge only has done a single run of this beer, so once their supply is decimated by sour beer aficionados, it will be gone for good.

84

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

The Vintner

Lineage Brewing • 2971 N High St. The Vintner, concocted by Lineage Brewing, the relatively new and first brewery in historically semi-dry Clintonville, serves as example for the clever chemistry at play in the world of sour beers. The Vintner, a word from old French meaning “wine merchant,” takes a traditional French style saison, brewed along with German Hallertau Blanc hops, and blends in the juice of Sauvignon Blanc grapes, achieving a winey, fruity beverage, that although is pleasantly mild, is also uniquely strange, but without offending an “unsoured” palette.

It creates a different mouth feel to a beer, that dry while still being wet sensation, but possessing enough familiar fermented flavor as to never let you forget that you’re still sipping a sour beer.

Plowshare

Seventh Son Brewing Co. • 1101 N Fourth St. Served up at the ever growing Seventh Son Brewery in ever changing Weinland Park, and occasionally available in bottle around Columbus, is the funky and spicy Plowshare. This Saison, a style of French beer whose name translates directly to season, tastes as it is labeled, a well seasoned beer. Brewed from an amalgam of multiple grains, and crawling with two different types of yeast, this beer packs a considerable kick of peppery and orangey spice. This beer is also further seasoned, like all sours, and has that saccharine stench, offputting at first, but delightfully enveloping after a few sips. If you’re lucky enough to drink a few glasses, don’t be surprised to find yourself fondly licking the final remnants of flavor from your lips. • 614columbus.com WINTER 2017

85

The Gambrinus kegging line; Austin Wagner on quality control.

The Suds of Time Local author crafts a new narrative for Columbus beer history

By Travis Hoew i s c her

A

lot of guys want to belly up to the bar and tell you a story; but you better make sure you have a babysitter and an Uber ready if you find yourself on a stool next to Curtis Schieber.

He’s not the city’s official beer historian— we’re not certain that title exists, but if it did it would belong to Schieber, long-time music writer and homebrewer who watched his friends and fellow beer geeks turn the city on to a new taste in beer—one that now permeates an increasingly hip Columbus.

The so-called “Class of 1989”—Scott Francis (CBC, Barley’s), Vince Falcone (Elevator), Allen Young and Victor Ecimovich III (Hoster), as well as Angelo Signorino and Lenny Kolada (Barley’s), are the valedictorians of Columbus brewing—and Schieber, their yearbook editor, watched the modern history write itself.

Columbus Beer: Recent Brewing and Deep Roots, his new book available from Arcadia/History Press, was constructed to be a tribute to that time, to the pioneers that led us to today’s craft beer explosion—from 5 to 35 breweries in the last five years—but instead became much more a story of rebirth than revival.

86

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

Not only does he go deep in the tank to shed more light on 200 years of beer history, but the book also brews up a slightly new discovery on today’s craft brewers and how they connect to their forebearers—from last century and the one before.

“Where the old brewers plied a craft refined by long tradition and carried forward by professional skills, the new guys—skilled as they might be—tend to look at their calling as something more creative, challenging not just their skills, but their imaginations,” Schieber said. “They were businessmen first, and skilled brewers, second. Today it tends to be the other way around. Still, the earliest Columbus craft brewers, the ‘the class of 1989,’ had a foot in both eras, as they were initially inspired by the tradition.”

The same way Schieber takes us through the advent of the Brewery District—while offering more history on that weird King statue outside their grocery store—he’s been able to offer a deeper, more direct dive into the city’s history, connecting newer Columbusonians with a better understanding of who and what inspired their current favorites brands.

Today, we belly up to the bar with him, giving him a break from the archives and catching us up on his current take on Columbus and craft beer: PHOTO COURTE SY GERMAN VILLAGE SOCIETY

How does craft beer connect with Columbus culture? Craft beer has both predicted and benefited from the lifestyle and culture shift that we enjoy in Columbus today. The interest in an original American cuisine, local business fueled by local sourcing, and a freewheeling approach to evolving lifestyles was suggested by the new brewers of the Class of 1989 and is carried today by the influx of a forward-thinking population.

2011 was a watershed year, in terms of new breweries and a potent new mindset.

What makes our current craft brew community unique? On the one hand, Columbus brewers have largely echoed national trends—toward IPAs, Belgians, and sours. On the other, we have embraced the core value of craft brewing, individuality, and community. The local scene has its innovators, rising stars, and respected professionals, who create a range of beers from the solidly traditional to wildly creative. It is my belief that the city’s size, history, and local character all have created a unique opportunity for businesses and demand for product.

What does a brewery have to do to stay relevant in the Columbus scene, especially as the city is bursting with microbreweries? Because of the city’s mix of longtime beer fans and an influx of new hipsters, Columbus brewers have wide options, from making quality, time-tested styles, to creating new beers. A lot of the success and longevity has to do with reflecting a personality through marketing and positioning.

Still, a few local classics—for instance, CBC’s Bodhi—can carry a lot of clout.

Is our beer scene enough of an homage to the greats who started it all? Are there any breweries that you feel tip a hat to the original beer giants in the city? Again, we need to distinguish between the old brewers who plied a tradition reaching back hundreds of years and reaching into the 1970s, and the craft brewers who began in 1989. Regarding the old Germans, only Hoster’s, which operated a brewpub for about 15 years beginning in 1991 and was named after Columbus’s first big German brewery established in 1836, has revived that style. Under the leadership of Allen Young and then Victor Ecimovich III, it did so admirably. Scott Francis was inspired by traditional English brewing, offered his take with the original 614columbus.com WINTER 2017

87

Bar at Hoster Brewing; early 1900s

CBC in 1989, and continues that today with Temperance Row in Westerville. Locally, English brewers came first, likely beginning in 1814 with John McCoy. Of folks carrying on the new history—established by CBC and Hoster’s—nobody is really that traditional, other than Scott at Temperance. A few locals have experimented with updating the German tradition and a couple more, especially Lineage, paying homage to the great English brews.

Build your own six-pack of Columbus beers... This is way too political an assignment, even though Columbus brewers are a pretty chummy sort. I will say that among my faves are Four String’s Payback Pilsner, Temperance’s Macedonian Imperial Stout, Lineage’s Passionate Bernice Berliner weisse, Barley’s Auld Curiosity old ale, one or more of Rockmill’s brilliant Belgians, and CBC’s Bodhi. When I can [find] contract-brewed Hoster’s Gold Top, often found at the Ohio Taproom, I’m a happy guy.

What beers go best with your favorite meals in C-Bus? I haven’t really experimented with that concept, though I would love to find partners for Ray Ray’s pork, Aab India’s spectacular rice, Mazah’s shawarma, and Brazenhead’s fine Fifth Avenue salad.

Can you tell us when the idea for the book started to take shape? The inspiration? First, a desire to tell the story of the pioneering craft brewers of 1989. Personal friends all, they fought a noble battle—against bland corporate beer, stubborn bar owners, and a city just beginning to outgrow its “Cowtown” stereotype. After I dug into the deeper history, though, I was fascinated by the process of placing myself in past times, imagining the city as it grew from four land tracts of near-wilderness, to a bustling capital, 88

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

PHOTO COURTE SY JAY HOSTER COLLECTION

"I loved imagining what Hoster’s dunkel would have tasted like, drawn from a wooden keg in 1836." and more recently into a commerce and growing arts center. A longtime fan of German beer, I loved imagining what, say, Hoster’s dunkel would have tasted like, drawn from a wooden keg in 1836.

If you had your own brewery in this town, what would it be like? Uncompromising tradition: German lagers, kolschs, doppelbocks, and alts; English barleywines and bitters, Scottish wee-heavies and refined Czech pilsners. Anything that stood the ground of tradition and offered a balance to all the wild-assed—if welcomed—creativity.

What is Columbus missing as a craft beer city? Nothing that I can think of. We have a good solid source of new brewers in our lively homebrewing scene, a forward-thinking business climate to encourage growth and experimentation, and—most importantly— an expanding population that is thirsty for new challenges to its palate. It would have been nice if we had landed the “rising market” confirmation with the Stone expansion production facility instead of the BrewDog consolation prize, but we take it one step at a time. • Schieber will be signing copies of Columbus Beer: Recent Brewing and Deep Roots at Gramercy Books on January 10. The book is available digitally via Amazon and Barnes and Noble, as well as at Gramercy Books, Book Loft, Acorn, Ohio Tap Room, Winemaker’s Shop, Used Kids Records (which has t-shirts) and Palmer’s Beverage.

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

89

Get You a Brewer That Can Do Both Actual Brewing forges a path into the future while keeping one foot firmly in tradition

By Je n i R u i s c h • i l lu str ati o n by du sti n g o e b e l

90

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

ohn Borror might have one of the coolest nerd jobs around. And that’s saying a lot.

Nerds with training get to do the coolest stuff. But they don’t always get to do it with beer. Borror gets to check off both of these boxes as the lead scientist for Hoax Lab at Actual Brewing.

I arrive at the back door of their warehouse, filled with huge tanks and vats, tubes running along the ceiling. A true commercial production center. After meeting the grainery cat and getting a colorful and varied flight of beers, we meander into the tasting room, past arcade game cabinets and an office. The hallway opens up into a large room filled with small tanks and all the coolest bells and whistles you never got to use in your freshman biology class.

As he leads me on a tour through his mad scientist lair behind the brewery, we walk among beakers and microscopes and machines that look like they could inject life into Frankenstein’s monster. Glass coils and dials hang on machines like medals on a serviceman’s jacket. Large latex gloves hang into a clear, sealed bin, attached to one wall by their hems. A sealed environment one can reach inside, which is what this lab is all about.

Getting your hands dirty, figuratively and literally, while maintaining a pristine culture.

Borror explains the role and mechanisms of each appliance as we tour the space. He has a BioChem degree from OSU. We discuss the simple and ancient little creature at the heart of the brewing industry: yeast. He waxes poetic about genetic analytics and selective breeding. Eventually, they hope to lend their lab services to home brewers to define the parameters of their beers, from Alcohol By Volume, to International Bitter Units. The Actual Brewers are a helpful bunch, and hope eventually to assist and troubleshoot over a frothy pint and a centrifuge and use all their powers for good instead of evil. I sip Fat Julian out of a graduated cylinder as he explains how a gas chromatograph detects characteristics of beer, and a giant vintage claw machine shakes test tubes. This is why we science.

The minutiae of Borror’s work is the result of a plethora of other fields converging and trading their technologies.

But these windows into the lifecycles of microscopic organisms are the modern iteration of an ancient practice. Humans have been getting drunk on fermentation for millennia. Ancient people didn’t understand the “How” of brewing. They just knew that if they made the giggle bread juice, all that 614columbus.com WINTER 2017

91

manual labor and disease they dealt with day to day didn’t seem so bad. So really, it’s just the details that have changed.

Actual Brewing started as a passion project in the garage of Fred Lee. He is the man behind the curtain, the owner-operator. He is a brewer straight out of central casting. A burly man with a burlier beard and untied work boots. The business he runs uses the ancient techniques of fermentation. He lets his nose guide him, along with his taste buds. In the grainery works a cat who earns her kibble as a mouser—a partnership that led to the domestication of felines.

And in the laboratory works a scientist. A decidedly more modern co-worker for a brewer. Actual Brewing and Hoax Labs straddle these worlds of ancient and modern seamlessly. The cat, the beards, and the beer build the bridge from the past, and the gas chromatograph and electrophoresis machine usher the practice assuredly into the future.

Into the laboratory strolls Lee. He greets us and places his hands on a structure sitting placidly among the glass and metal of the laboratory. It is a giant crate-like structure that appears to be fashioned of cement. When I ask what we are standing over, Fred beams. It’s a Yorkshire Square. An open-topped stone tank. The original brewing method, used from 500-1100 AD. This ancient technology is how the first beers were made. Wild yeast would billow in, and the process of fermentation would happen naturally.

Just like making friends over beers.

Across the road in an adjacent industrial park sits another business, Lang Stone. At 160 years and running, Lang is the oldest stone business in America, possibly the oldest business in Ohio. Over some Actual brews, Lee had discussed stone tanks with Larry First, the owner of Lang. First happened to have a line on some huge sandstone slabs, mined from the Dayton area.

As one beer led to another, ideas followed.

Soon, the stone slabs had made their way into Lee’s possession, among the burners and beakers, where he plans on putting them to work.

“We’re gonna make some beers in this and see why they stopped using these stone tanks. Apparently these are bad, and we’re gonna find out why.”

“And if it turns out well?”

“Then we’re gonna drink the shit out of it.”

Spoken like a true timeless craftsman. •

92

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

Glossary: Drink in the Science Spectrophotometer:

A laboratory instrument that uses a standardized light source to measure light reflected from, and absorbed by a sample solution or object. Helps determine color for SRM.

SRM

Stands for “Standard Reference Method.”

This is a standardized color scale that helps brewers determine beer color, which is an important component of beer styles.

Gas Chromatograph

A laboratory instrument used to analyze components of a solution, once it is vaporized. Finds volatile components.

IBU

Stands for “International Bittering Units.” Scale used to quantify presence of an acid that can contribute to the bitterness of beer.

Yeast

Single-celled fungi, used for millennia to perform fermentation.

Fermentation

The consumption and breakdown of sugar by yeast, which results in ethyl alcohol

ABV/Real Extract

Quantifications done in-lab using distillation. Real Extract is the amount of sugar or unfermentable components in a beer. ABV, or “Alcohol By Volume,” measures the presence of converted sugars.

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

93

eat with your eyes

Ryan Blanski

S

ome of our favorite food has never touched our lips.

That’s because, thanks to Columbus’s talented photographers, we’ve been able to soak up the city’s most creative dishes without leaving our laptops.

A cursory scroll through Instagram often sends us sprawling out all over the city in search of sustenance ourselves.

This issue, we pick the palate/palette of Ryan Blanski on what shapes his taste in photography.

(@ryanblanski)

94

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

95

Now that a million people are taking food/drink photographs on a daily basis, how do you want your work to stand apart? I’m all about this grown trend of excitement on everyone’s part to post pics of everything they’re eating or drinking. But what I like even more, what I “try” to do with photography, is not just show off some beautiful dish or drink, but try to create an intriguing story around that content, which might entice someone to want to know more. Where is this? What all is going on around this beautiful meal? How can I be a part of this?

How do you rise above the “over-Pinteresting” of the world? For me, when it comes to social media, I think it’s important not to get sucked into the pressures of posting constantly, simply to stay relevant. I post only when I am excited about something I’ve created and want to share it with the world. My social media game is admittedly, pretty weak though, so you may not want to follow any of my advice in this arena.

It always strikes me that food/drink is such a naturally colorful palette for photos and artwork. What inspires you as far as how to incorporate or juxtapose color with the food at-hand? Color is such a brilliant thing. And overly abundant in the world of food and drink. I typically like to start by removing color from my photos. Not creating black and whites, but desaturating my images in the capture process, then possibly bring back a strategic color story within each shot. Light can do impressive things when manipulated properly.

Tell me about the first time you had an “a-ha” moment when photographing food/booze. My first “a-ha” was when I realized the importance of the collaborative relationship between a food photographer and food stylist.

Food stylists are an amazing breed and I am always so impressed with all the tricks and magic they each bring to set.

What are your inspirations? I am inspired by other people’s hard work. Farmers, chefs, cooks, bartenders, mixologists, industry creators. There’s a whole world of people who use food and beverage as a means to create ... for us. I love getting the opportunity to capture their creations as they are being made and portray the awesomeness that happens as they are enjoyed by others.

What is your favorite dish and/or restaurant/bar in town? Right now Condados is where it’s at for me. Their bacon refried beans are insanely good. I like dive bars with great live music, and a good local beer list, so Ace of Cups is where you can find me if I’m out. But honestly my wife makes the most amazing ramen, and with two kegs on tap, it’s easy to be a homebody...

Describe what makes a food/drink photo great in six words. Ability to evoke an insatiable interest. •

96

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

97

JUNIPER Patio by Tommy Feisel 98

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

Fresh Tastes

BY STOCK & B ARREL STAFF

N

umerous new bars, breweries, and restaurants opened up in the last year, signifying a legitimate boom for the Columbus food and drink industry. These are just a few of the standouts:

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

99

Cravings • 114 N Front St. You will not pass any cutesy boutiques on your way to Cravings.

It isn’t across the street from a row of quaint duplexes.

114 North Front Street is right smack dab in the heart of municipal Columbus, just a stone’s throw from police headquarters. (Note: do not throw stones in the direction of police headquarters.) Before you write off Cravings as being too far from the beaten path, consider this: it’s a less than 10-minute walk to the Arena District, under a third of a mile. For all the bustle and bother of trying to grab food at the North Market on a Saturday morning, you could just go a few blocks south, take a deep breath, and inhale a delicious burrito. Or any other of their wonderful offerings.

The burrito was a treat, well-composed and dynamic in texture (the crispy potatoes and time on a griddle to thank for that). Sample a lovely chopped salad with bulgogi steak, a loaded potato soup, and a marvelous breakfast roll, the latter set off by a rosemary dressing and toasted, house-made brioche roll.

It’s that brioche recipe that got people buzzing in the first place: you turn brioche into doughnuts (aye—bronuts), and you’re bound to get people mewling at your door like a bunch of neighborhood strays.

The Keep • 50 W Broad St. Nestled inside the Leveque tower at Broad and Front, The Keep has a lot of history to carry. According to the Dispatch, when it opened in 1927, the 46-story Leveque Tower skyscraper was the tallest building in Ohio and the fifth tallest in the world. Technology and industry may have progressed, but something about the style was lost in time. A relic of Art Deco, Leveque stands as a testament to a time when screens were silver, and bartenders in arm garters served up digestifs.

There is a raw bar with chilled lobster and oysters galore. The Keep serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. From classic French crepes in the morning, to Moroccan grilled Halloumi for lunch, to pan fried scallops with green tea noodles for dinner, The Keep is a Columbus destination in the making. You can take the chance to expand your palate at the bar with ingredients like Rhubarb syrup in the Front Street Fizz, and touches like Angostura ice balls for the In Brasserie Fashioned. A place for a quality cocktail, or a resplendent date night, The Keep is sure to become a downtown legend, as much as the building in which it has found its home.

Service Bar • 1230 Courtland Ave. A sweet bun atop some thickened vinegar. A fat dollop of compound butter laced with freeze-dried pepperoni. Perfect day-old pizza. Crispy ribs.

Szechuan peppercorns punched up the pool of oil bathing the seven-or-eight morsels in the lamb dish. The filling was at once delicate and distinctly lamb.

Fine stuff.

Fifth and High still isn’t boujee by any stretch, but the last several years have seen previously non-viable elements cropping up and hanging on. A scratch restaurant, a meadery, a pizza boutique, a chain taqueria. There’s a new clientele occupying the area, just as has come to occupy the likewise expanding commercial chunk of Italian Village.

Service Bar is perhaps a shinier gem than one would expect in its place.

The menu is profoundly thoughtful. The product is crave-able without feeling cheap. There’s comfort and familiarity and still a sense of adventure. Guests will be back for the roasted gnocchi with oxtail, the Mongolian short rib with milk bread, and the burger with bone marrow in the mix.

Precisely when and how the Short North will completely envelop the pocket in which Service Bar resides is unknown. What is known is that if quality counts, Service Bar will still be there when it happen.

PHOTOS: TOP AND BOTTOM BY MEGAN LEIGH B ARNARD MIDDLE BY COLLIN S LAATSCH

100

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

101

Pretentious Barrel House • 745 Taylor Ave. With over 100 breweries and barrel houses in Columbus alone, Joshua Martinez, a thirsty young brewer from San Diego, wanted to stand out.

With a bag full of brewing knowledge gained from Ethereal Brewing, operating out of Lexington, he decided to start a business dedicated to sour beers, cornering the market on the hyper-niche product.

An appeal of sours, Martinez says, is the broad flavor spectrum. You can make any kind of beer more acidic by adding bacteria, so even though it seems like his “sour beer only” concept limits his selection, he argues that there is enough variance to keep each of his selections unique.

“The thing that we try to do here is make a balanced beer, whether that is a crisp beer with light acidity, or a darker beer that has chocolaty nuances. Fruity beer used to have a negative connotation. When you had a beer that was bad, you added fruit to it to cover that up. For me, I take the best beers that I have and add fruit to them.”

Blunch • 2973 N High St. The “Daylight Eatery” in Clintonville is a brand new food spot, meant to satiate your morning cravings far into the day. Open from 7 to 2 with espressos, fresh juices, and plenty of boozy options, Blunch is focusing on more than just pancakes and eggs. Though all the hangover staples are well-represented on the menu, there is fancier fare to be had. There’s an entire section of the menu dedicated to benedicts. The Atlantic has smoked salmon on toasted pumpernickel, with poached eggs, sauce Choron, and capers. If you wanna take a ride on the sweet breakfast train, you can order from their gourmet pancake menu. Bananas Foster?

Blueberry lemon ricotta? Or perhaps you want to pull the sugar trigger, and order yourself some creme brulee french toast.

Visitors will be spoiled for choice when it comes to booze and food. The drink menu is fortified with favorites, like bloody marys and mimosas.

But the selection is rounded out by inventive takes on breakfast cocktails.

The Apple Comfort is made with Bulleit Bourbon, Calvados Brandy, Hard Cider, Maple Syrup & Apple Bitters. There’s also a grapefruit crush, peach bellini, and others. Call it what you want, we don’t judge your day drinking. The new spot sits on the edge of Clintonville, and is open from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m., for those of you that can’t roust yourselves before noon.

Smoked on High • 755 S High St. With all the BBQ joints in this city, you’ve gotta find one that can be reliably yours. Smoked on High has finally parked itself in a spot you can trek to for the hot and smokey stuff. There’s nothing like your favorite food truck getting a brick and mortar to wake you from your winter slumber. And the best part is, this fare will warm you from the inside out.

From a food truck, to catering myriad events, to a brand spankin’ new Brewery District location, Smoked on High has become the Phoenix of local barbeque joins. They have reinvented their brand a few times and always risen, not from the ashes, but the hot coals of the smoker. First named Buckeye Back Ribs, and then taking a turn as Papaya BBQ, the mouth-watering recipe has remained the same. The slow-smoked meats are central to a simple and classic menu. Brisket, pork, and chicken drummies are served with coleslaw, cornbread, or Max N Cheese, no doubt named after the phenom owner, Max McGarity.

Get in early to make sure you get a piece of the good stuff. They are open til 8, or til they sell out, whichever comes first, which is how barbeque should work.

Jeff Ruby Steak House • 89 E Nationwide Blvd.

Jeff Ruby doesn’t just hire cooks and servers, he’s casting for culinary experience. He’s a culinary storyteller—and his productions certainly don’t spare any expense.

“Ballplayers, babes, businessmen, barflies, blue bloods, and blue hairs,” is how he described the diverse clientele of his earlier restaurants, where the atmosphere defied the stuffy conventions of other fine dining restaurants. Now, he’s bringing that to Columbus, inside the former 89 Fish & Grill.

102

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

Serving French fare, seafood, sushi, and comfort food classics all on the same menu is what has made each restaurant surprisingly approachable.

Columbus is following suit, as Ruby puts it, never being “steak it, or leave it. Familiar served with fanfare. Columbus is already on-board.

Eden Burger • 1437 N High St. Carnivores by nature will be more than skeptical when it’s suggested they try the vegan Eden Burger. The flagship item at the all-vegan restaurant of the same name is made with sautéed pumpkin seeds, beans, rice, onions, and a blend of spices, topped with a standard set of lettuce, tomato, onion, and pickle, Eden sauce and “vegannaise.”

Truth be told, it’s a very easy transition. After trying a double Eden Burger, their hand-cut fries made with sunflower oil, and a frozen bananabased peanut butter shake, the spot can instantly become a staple in your diet. The burgers of Eden are not a substitute mind you, but are a damn good healthier alternative—and an exercise in helping the owners realize the loftier mission of the concept.

Juniper • 580 N Fourth St. Do you remember when you were growing up, and a new kid would come to your school? They’d have a bit of an air of mystery, and if they were cute, they would be the object of many a school-age crush for a while.

Well, there’s a fancy new kid in town, her name is Juniper, and you’ve just got to see what she’s all about.

With a breathtaking view from the top of the old Smith Brothers warehouse on Fourth, Juniper has dedicated the lion’s share of its hours to private events hosted inside, or on its patio. But between 5 and 10:30 from Tuesday to Thursday, you can catch a glimpse of the city from a new vantage point, and have yourself one hell of a cocktail.

Bragging the city’s largest selection of gin, the cocktail menu is one that begs serious perusing.

All the house features are made with Watershed gin, like the Park of Roses, made with Watershed four peel gin, pineapple rose cordial, lemon juice, and strawberry puree.

If you’re lucky enough to have fancy friends, you might get invited to a rooftop wedding at Juniper when (or maybe before) the weather thaws. In the meantime, get there during their open hours to check out their drinks and small plates, and stick a love note in their locker. •

614columbus.com WINTER 2017

103

@woodlandsbackyard

@citypulsecols

@archcitytavern

@eatplaycbus

@sweetlycbus

@biteoffmorethanyoucanshew

@colhouseofmedia

@northcountrycharcuterie

@nadacolumbus

@thefoodieandthenewbie

@614foodsnob

@assembly_life

It’s difficult for us here at (614) to catch it all. That’s where you come in: while you’re out there capturing the city, you might as well slide some of your best shots our way. Use the hashtag #Eat614 on twitter or instagram to put your photos on our radar.

104

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

FAQ: Tim Cullenen

There’s plenty of colorful personalities in the Columbus food and drink scene.

And we’re setting out to capture them—one meal at a time.

This month, we launch a new back page feature with Tim Cullenen of Timmy’s Meltdown, a man who lured us in with the promise of delicious grilled cheese and a food truck plastered with political memes.

How could you not wanna dig into the backstory of a food truck with the slogan “Sandwiches. Soup. Anarchy.”?

If you could transport your food truck to any place and time, where/when would it be?

On a beach in Belize. RIGHT NOW. What is something you will never serve, and why?

Donald Trump. And yes ... I know it says what, not who ...

If you could suddenly switch careers and be successful, what field would you switch to?

On a beach making 20 percent ... or a musician.

One person, dead or alive to share a meal or a drink with. Who is it?

Bruce Springsteen.

Fill in the blank: “Someday, I’m going to have a life, and a girlfriend.”

What is something you love to hate?

Ultra right-wing Christian conservatives.

What is something you hate to love?

KC and The Sunshine Band.

Describe your business in five words: “Couldn’t Get A Real Job.” • To find out where Timmy is having his next Meltdown, visit timmysmeltdown.com.

106

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com

Photo by Megan Leigh Barnard

108

WINTER 2017 614columbus.com