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May 5–August 11, 2024
IMAGE: DRIFT, Meadow (detail), 2017. Aluminum, stainless steel, printed fabric, LEDs, and robotics; dimensions variable. Represented by PACE Gallery. © 2024 DRIFT. Photograph by Oriol Tarridas, courtesy of Superblue Miami.From the hippest new restaurant to the coolest bookstore, we tracked down the best of the Mile High City. Here, our curated list of editors’ picks, complemented by our readers’ choice winners.
EDITED BY SPENCER CAMPBELL & LINDSEY B. KING
Rodeoing ain’t easy—not for the cowpokes looking to stay in the saddle nor for the people behind the chutes, who will make riding, racing, and roping possible across Colorado this summer.
BY SPENCER CAMPBELLFifty-one years after the first bore opened, the Eisenhower-Johnson Memorial Tunnels are undergoing the largest overhaul in their history. The upgrades will be significant—but will they be enough to keep the critical east-west passage open for decades to come?
BY NICHOLAS HUNT
JULIE STARR, APRN, PHD Nurse Practitioner
Julie Starr is an accomplished advanced practice nurse and clinical researcher with 16 years of experience in the field of women’s health and an expert in pelvic floor disorders, providing top-notch care to women seeking evaluation and treatment for their pelvic concerns - from pelvic pain to bladder control issues.
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OSCAR A. AGUIRRE, MD Founder and Medical Director
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At Aguirre Specialty Care we are experts in addressing the following concerns:
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Aguirre Specialty Care is a center of excellence for women, providing state-of-the-art treatments for a wide range of intimate wellness and aesthetic needs. Having performed over 10,000 vaginal rejuvenation procedures, Dr. Aguirre and his team help patients live their fullest lives feeling confident, comfortable and free!
12 5280’s editor thinks her staff deserves its own Top of the Town award.
15 SCIENCE
Inside the University of Denver’s Chamberlin Observatory.
16 INTERSECTIONS
Five LoDo spots where you can make a toast to Union Station’s $11 million refresh.
18 ADVENTURE
A scandal closed State Forest State Park’s rental yurts in 2022. One Steamboat couple is finally bringing them back.
20 HOME
How a Boulder-born AI service can help your garden grow.
22 CULTURE
A new Denver Art Museum exhibit offers a glimpse into life at a WWII Japanese American internment camp in Colorado.
25 WHAT’S HOT
La Forêt, a French eatery and cocktail bar in the former home of Beatrice & Woodsley, retains the beloved haunt’s forest charm.
26 REVIEW
With the help of a new chef, five-yearold Somebody People continues to rule Denver’s vegan scene. Plus: four more places where even omnivores will adore the plant-based cuisine.
88 DINING GUIDE
30 LAW
In Colorado, a growing number of attorneys are dedicating their practices to four-legged defendants.
BY SPENCER CAMPBELL120 THE OVERSIMPLIFIED
GUIDE TO: HIKING A FOURTEENER WITH YOUR KID
Five tips for physically and mentally preparing small humans for the big climb. ON THE COVER Lettering by Luke Lucas
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EDITOR
Lindsey B. King
ART DIRECTOR
David McKenna
DIGITAL DIRECTOR
Maren Horjus
EDITORIAL
DEPUTY EDITOR
Jessica LaRusso
SENIOR STAFF WRITER
Robert Sanchez
FEATURES EDITOR
Spencer Campbell
HOME EDITOR
Michelle Johnson
SENIOR EDITOR
Nicholas Hunt FOOD EDITOR
Patricia Kaowthumrong
SENIOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR
Jessica Giles
ASSOCIATE FOOD EDITOR
Ethan Pan
ASSISTANT EDITOR
Barbara O’Neil
COPY EDITORS
Shannon Carroll, Dougald MacDonald
RESEARCHERS
Laurenz Busch, Henry Carnell, Kim Habicht, Gia Yetikyel
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Kelly Bastone, Laura Beausire, Jay Bouchard, Christine DeOrio, Courtney Holden, Sarah Kuta, Elisabeth Kwak-Hefferan, Jenny McCoy, Allyson Reedy, Meredith Sell, Daliah Singer, Martin J. Smith, Andy Stein
EDITORIAL INTERN
Julia Ruble
DESIGN & PHOTOGRAPHY
PHOTO EDITOR
Charli Ornett
DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR
Sean Parsons
DEPUTY PHOTO EDITOR
Sarah Banks
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS
Daniel J. Brenner, Stephen Cardinale, Sam Chivers, Aaron Colussi, Ben Duke, Simone Massoni, Arthur Mount, Matt Nager
CEO & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Daniel Brogan
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
Geoff Van Dyke
ADVERTISING & MARKETING
CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER
Camille Hammond
ADVERTISING DIRECTOR
Ari Ben
MARKETING DIRECTOR
Piniel Simegn
SENIOR ADVERTISING EXECUTIVES
Angie Lund, Molly Swanson
ADVERTISING EXECUTIVES
Craig Hitchcock, Kara Noone
ADVERTISING & MARKETING COORDINATOR
Tamara Curry
MARKETING COORDINATOR
Grace Thomas
BRAND SERVICES
CHIEF BRAND OFFICER
Carly Lambert
PRINT OPERATIONS DIRECTOR
Megan Skolak
CREATIVE SERVICES MANAGER
Chelsea Conrad
DIGITAL OPERATIONS MANAGER
Shundra Jackson
SENIOR GRAPHIC & UI DESIGNER
Caitlin Brooks
AUDIENCE GROWTH COORDINATOR
Greta Kotova
P RODUCTION COORDINATOR
Alyssa Chutka
NEWS STAND CONSULTANT
Alan Centofante
CIRCULATION CONSULTANTS
Meg Clark, Greg Wolfe
ADMINISTRATION
HUMAN RESOURCES DIRECTOR
Derek Noyes
OFFICE MANAGER
Todd A. Black
BILLING & COLLECTIONS MANAGER
Jessica McHeard
St. Anthony Hospital • St. Anthony North Hospital • St. Anthony Summit Hospital St. Elizabeth Hospital • Longmont United Hospital • OrthoColorado Hospital
Hospitals, clinics, and caregivers all connected to advance health care in Colorado, Kansas, and Utah.
CommonSpirit Health Mountain Region does not discriminate against any person on the basis of race, color, national origin, disability, age, sex, religion, creed, ancestry, sexual orientation, and marital status in admission, treatment, or participation in its programs, services and activities, or in employment. For further information about this policy contact CommonSpirit Health Mountain Region Office of the General Counsel at 1-303-673-8166 (TTY: 711). Copyright © CommonSpirit Health Mountain Region, 2024. ATENCIÓN: Si habla español, tiene a su disposición servicios gratuitos de asistencia lingüística. Llame al 1-303-673-8166 (TTY: 711). CHÚ Ý: N
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Letters to the editor must include your name, address, and a daytime phone number (all of which can be withheld from publication upon request). Letters may be submitted via regular mail or email (letters@5280.com). To have a restaurant considered for our Dining Guide, contact us by phone or email (dining@5280.com) to receive a submission form. We also encourage you to contact us if your experience at a restaurant differs significantly from our listing. Information for this section should be submitted at least six weeks before the issue’s cover date.
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I don’t know if I’m allowed to do this, but…I’m the editor, so I’m doing it anyway. Every July for more than two decades, 5280 has published its Top of the Town awards (see page 40) honoring the best of Denver. We pay tribute to the hippest new restaurant, highlight the hottest local author, and give kudos to the coolest craft brewery, among countless other awards. Those who receive these accolades do so (hopefully) knowing that these bestowals are the result of robust and unbiased reporting by hardworking journalists who make it their jobs to know Denver so our readers can better enjoy the city. I am in no way unbiased, however, when I say I believe the 5280 team has earned its own Top of the Town award this year.
Don’t get me wrong; there’s a lot of admirable journalism going on in the Mile High City, despite the seemingly insurmountable challenges media outlets face today. The Colorado Sun. The Denver Post Denverite. The Denver Business Journal Westword. CPR. The area TV news channels, too. These outlets all deserve laurels for their commitment to the ideals of an independent, free press. But I am not inside those newsroom walls, and so I can only say, with more than a little favoritism, that our editorial staff has done praiseworthy work all year and particularly on this issue, which marks the magazine’s 31st birthday.
Every day I am in awe of the talent and commitment to craft displayed by our team. We have art directors who
^ Clockwise from top left: Top of the Town winners Desert Social, Petals and Pages, Alma Fonda Fina, the Denver Orbital Trail, and Stay Tuned
dream up fresh, beautiful, and true-tothe-journalism designs that draw readers into our stories. We have photo editors who collaborate with local photographers to sensitively and faithfully capture images of both Colorado and the people who call the state home. Our writers and editors, for the print magazine and for 5280.com, understand what makes a good story: thorough reporting, fairness and accuracy, compelling prose, and lots of editing and rewriting to get there. All of that work rarely fits into a 40-hour week, which means our food editors take notes during Saturday night dinners out; our digital team stages newsletters on Sunday
mornings; and, during deadline, our deputy editor places changes to the magazine’s pages after the babies are tucked into bed.
I see—and am grateful for—their dedication every day. And maybe after working on 22 Top of the Town issues, I’ve earned the right to dole out this imaginary award. But better yet, maybe I should let you, the reader, flip through the following pages and let me know if you agree.
LINDSEY B. KING Editorlindsey@5280.com
Features editor Spencer Campbell was just a little bit busy this issue: On top of co-editing 2024’s Top of the Town awards (page 40), he reported on Colorado’s growing number of firms dedicated to pet law (“See Spot Litigate,” page 30) and wrangled a feature on the Centennial State’s long history of roping and riding (“They Call The Thing Rodeo,” page 58). He leaned on his colleagues to help identify the city’s best coffeeshop, spa, and jewelry designer and relied on seven attorneys to break down the animal law scene. But chatting with cowboys, cowgirls, and the folks behind the chutes in towns small and large across the state came naturally to the native Texan. “In high school, I wore boots, drove a pickup, and listened to country music,” Campbell says, even though he spent his weekends on a golf cart, not a horse. “This was my first chance, however, to really explore what it means to rodeo, and I quickly found that it was everything I thought it would be, only harder and much more important to the people who do it than I ever realized.”
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Think landing a reservation at Casa Bonita is difficult? Try snagging one for a weekday tour of the University of Denver’s Chamberlin Observatory. “They’re sold out for a year in advance, which shocks us,” says Ken Sturrock, a volunteer guide with the Denver Astronomical Society (DAS). The Romanesque sandstone building’s giant refracting telescope saw the stars for the first time 130 years ago this month, and Chamberlin hasn’t changed much since. Nearly everything in the structure is original, including the hand cranks that deftly maneuver the 26-foot-long telescope, which has charted stars, discovered comets, and almost confirmed Albert Einstein’s theory of relativity during June 1918’s total solar eclipse. (Another observatory got the honor due to unfortunate cloud coverage over the Mile High City.) But the instrument has actually been obsolete for most of its existence and has primarily been used as a science popularizer. In addition to public tours (every Tuesday and Thursday; $4 for adults, $3 for children), DAS also hosts an open house once a month, no reservation required, and the observatory remains an effective teaching tool for the university. “We still have classes here,” says DU physics and astronomy professor and observatory director Jennifer Hoffman, “because it is a really powerful way for our students to envision their place in the universe.”
—NICHOLAS HUNT
July marks a decade since Union Station reopened following its $54 million renovation in 2014. In honor of the anniversary, the depot is getting another touch-up, this time to the tune of a mere $11 million. Check out these five new(ish) neighborhood eateries and experiences where you can toast the landmark’s second second wind. —JESSICA
GILES1. Cooper Lounge
1701 WYNKOOP ST.
Union Station’s latest update includes a revamp of the mezzanine’s ritzy Cooper Lounge, which will host its grand reopening from July 12 to 14. You can still indulge in the bar’s flaky Brie en croute and signature Old Manhattan cocktail, a marriage of singlebarrel whiskeys and Carpano Antica vermouth. You’ll just do so from new, plush banquettes that overlook the refreshed Great Hall.
Flight Club
1959 16TH ST.
If you like darts but would rather spend your time socializing than keeping score, Flight Club is for
you. The national chain opened a location on the 16th Street Mall in June 2023 and uses an automated system to track winners and losers in its six custom darts games, including Donkey Derby, in which you race your steed to the finish line by racking up points.
3. Holey Moley
1201 18TH ST.
At this indoor putt-putt facility, you’ll attempt to make par while (fake) dollar bills swirl around you in a money tornado, among other whimsical obstacles. Like any respectable course, it serves plenty of swing oil, but it also mixes cocktails your country club would never offer, such as the Rub a Dub in the Tub: a miniature clawfoot filled with gin, juice, Aperol, and prosecco.
4. Hello Darling
1610 LITTLE RAVEN ST., SUITE 110
To impress your colleagues during your next Zoom meeting, let the forest green furniture, luxe pink pillows, geometric tiling, and billowing fiber art at Hello Darling be your background bragging rights. Then stick around the light-filled cafe and cocktail lounge until 3 p.m., when you can trade your matcha for a happy hour margarita.
5. Ukiyo
1317 14TH ST., SUITE 0
Ready for a tasty trust fall? Savor a multicourse dinner (from $175) at Ukiyo, the 12-seat Japanese eatery beneath Bao Brewhouse. Served omakase-style, the seasonal tasting menu is dreamed up by chef Phraseuth “Paul” Sananikone, former creative director of sushi at Jing Aspen. Expect innovative—and Instagrammable—bites like sticky rice topped with Laotian jerky, a cotton candy bonsai tree, and an oyster filled with tamarind paste, fish sauce, and bird’s eye chiles.
A scandal closed State Forest State Park’s rental yurts in 2022. This Steamboat couple is finally bringing them back.
For decades, Coloradans flocked to a privately managed yurt system inside beautiful State Forest State Park, a 71,000-acre woodland just outside Walden. Then, in 2022, things got ugly. Never Summer Nordic— the longtime park concessionaire that contracted with Colorado Parks and Wildlife (CPW) to operate eight year-round yurts and two cabins—quit paying its bills, forcing the agency to terminate the agreement and order the company to close its shelters and refund its reservations. Instead, Never Summer’s owners kept booking stays, pocketed the money, and ghosted would-be guests, many of whom never realized they’d been had until they tried to check in at an empty office.
It didn’t take long for authorities to get involved. In March, 19 months after CPW canceled the contract, Never Summer Nordic co-owner Bron Austin Deal was sentenced to 60 days in jail and ordered to pay more than $24,000 in restitution for a variety of financial crimes. While justice was served, the families who frequented the yurts as a cool escape in summer and a snowy basecamp in winter likely felt a bigger sense of relief when CPW announced a new concessionaire that same month.
Over the past decade, Steamboater Corey Peterson had stayed at almost every Never Summer yurt. So when CPW started searching for someone to relaunch the yurt system in October 2023, Corey and his wife, Sarah, applied. Using his experience as a Steamboat Ski Resort executive and
her expertise as a real estate agent, they crafted a pitch based on their deep connections to the region. It worked. “We received an outpouring of support from folks who stayed there previously,” Corey says. “People are really excited to have the yurts back.”
Finding a new yurt operator turned out to be vital for the park for another reason: The structures were left in such a state of neglect after Never Summer’s contract was revoked that they had to be removed.
The seven yurts the Petersons have installed on the old sites aren’t just new, though; they’re also a major upgrade, swapping the previous soft vinyl siding for a cabinlike construction. Corey hopes the improved lodgings, which will welcome guests under the name Yonder Yurts late this summer, will help others have the same experiences in the park that his family has had, such as when a bull moose and two cows strolled right past their yurt’s deck. “My son was blown away,” Corey says. “That’s the type of thing that can create lifelong family memories.” Rates TBD; yonder-yurts.com —JAY BOUCHARD
If Denver’s dry climate and clay soil dampen your gardening dreams, you might lose your gourd over Flora.
Released in March, Flora—a free AI texting service (sign up online) created by Boulder-based fertilizer company Love, Plants—provides instant answers to your botanical queries. But does the cheerful chatbot receive a green thumbs-up from a human expert? To find out, we interviewed Flora and then asked Jenny Cavanaugh, founder of edible-garden consultancy Denver Kitchen Gardens, to weigh in on its responses.
5280: Hi, Flora! Novice gardener here. What are the easiest vegetables to grow in Denver?
Flora: Hey there, budding green thumb! Denver’s got that mile-high sun but can throw some curveballs with cool temps. For veggies, start with radishes, spinach, and lettuce—they’re not fussy and love a quick chill. ��✨
Cavanaugh: Radishes, spinach, and lettuce are low maintenance, but they generally
—MICHELLE JOHNSONprefer cool, spring temps. In Denver, the transition to summer can be abrupt, so diversify your seeds with cool- and warm-season varieties of those veggies.
I’ve heard that Denver’s soil is extra tricky. How can I make it more fertile so that I have happy veggies?
Flora: Oh Denver, with your cowboy boots and soil swagger! Your soil can be a bit like the Wild West—lean, mean, and
sometimes too alkaline. What to do? Add organic matter like compost or well-rotted manure to improve soil structure and add nutrients. A little peat moss can help lower the pH if it’s too high. Regular [at-home] soil tests will keep you on track, partner. And remember, happy soil equals happy veggies. It’s like a hoedown for roots! ����✨
Cavanaugh: Adding organic matter to your soil is a great strategy, but too much of a good thing can be a problem. Send your soil off to a lab to have it analyzed so you can understand what, precisely, you need.
Is it better to plant in raised beds or in the ground in Denver?
Flora: Raised beds in Denver are like the VIP lounges for plants—they offer better drainage, control over soil quality, and a quicker warm-up in spring compared to native soil, which can be tough as cowboy boots. In-ground gardens can work, too, but they may need more amending and TLC to get the soil just right. So, do you want the penthouse suite for your plants or the charming fixer-upper? �� �� ��
Cavanaugh: Flora hit the mark here. I’d add that the key to a raised bed is to fill it with quality soil and compost, not dirt.
How can I get rid of weeds without harming my plants?
Flora: Weeds, the uninvited guests that never leave! Here’s how to show them the door, gently:
Mulch magic: A thick layer of mulch can suppress those weedy party crashers.
Hand-to-hand combat: Pull them out by hand, getting as much of the root as possible.
Boiling water: A hot surprise for paths and cracks—but keep it away from your plants!
Vinegar solution: A spray of vinegar can bid them farewell, but it’s nonselective, so shield your plants. Remember, it’s persistence over pesticides. Keep at it and your garden will be a weed-free wonderland! ������
Cavanaugh: Flora’s weed management strategy is pretty darn good, but she did make a mistake. Pesticides won’t do a thing for your weeds—it’s herbicides that you use for plants.
A
In 1908, at age 18, Tokio Ueyama moved from Japan to California to attend art school. For the next three decades, the oil painter traveled the world, hosted exhibits, got married, and mingled with luminaries, including iconic Mexican artist Diego Rivera. But Ueyama’s status in America’s art community couldn’t save his wife and him from the perils associated with one of the darkest periods in the country’s history. In 1942, after the attack on Pearl Harbor, the U.S. government detained more than 100,000 Japanese Americans, including the Ueyamas, and imprisoned them in incarceration camps around the country.
The couple was sent to what was then known as the Granada Relocation Center (and is now called the Amache National Historic Site) in rural southeast Colorado, where some 10,000 prisoners were housed. Despite his captivity, Ueyama found ways to keep painting,
including using insulation board as a hard backing for his canvases. That same board was used to build the barracks that confined him. Now, a little more than 80 years later, many of the works he produced inside Amache will be displayed as part of The Life and Art of Tokio Ueyama at the Denver Art Museum (DAM). “These artworks are beautiful,” says JR Henneman, DAM’s curator and director of the Petrie Institute of Western American Art, “but they shouldn’t lure you into thinking life there was easy or pleasant.”
Henneman began planning the exhibition two years ago, a process that included sourcing 41 pieces from the Japanese American National Museum in Los Angeles and the Ueyama family’s personal collection. “This was a time of great dislocation and loss,” Henneman says. “The fact that he continued striving for beauty is a remarkable act of survival and resistance.” Perhaps more remarkable is that Ueyama’s style didn’t change despite his imprisonment and austere surroundings. “He loves color, which pulls through throughout his career,” Henneman says. That’s evident in the
23 landscapes, still lifes, and portraits from Ueyama’s time at Amache featured in the exhibit, such as “Untitled (barracks with basketball hoop)” (pictured). Outside the camp, Ueyama had been a leader in LA’s tight-knit Japanese American art scene, and he continued that work inside the camp by teaching adult painting classes three days a week, a practice that brought some normality to those held captive there. After his release in 1945, Ueyama and his wife returned to Los Angeles, where he opened a gift shop in the Little Tokyo neighborhood before his death in 1954.
When The Life and Art of Tokio Ueyama opens (July 28 through June 2025), it will be the first time an Amache prisoner’s work will grace one of DAM’s galleries, an event Henneman believes will inspire visitors to learn more about the treatment of Japanese Americans during World War II. “I hope people are surprised by Ueyama’s artwork,” she says. “There is nothing about his art that’s obviously ‘Japanese.’ He was cosmopolitan, well-traveled, and his life and work defy stereotypes.”
—BARBARA O’NEIL
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It can be difficult for restaurateurs to see the forest for the trees. When Mike Huggins and Lenka Juchelkova took over the former home of Beatrice & Woodsley, though, they immediately knew the 46 aspen trunks that seem to grow right out of the South Broadway space’s floorboards fit into their vision for La Forêt. “We tried to retain its essence,” says Huggins of the cabin-themed restaurant that closed during the pandemic, “the experience of feeling like you’re dining in the forest.” In fact, the husband-and-wife duo leaned in even further, adding more greenery to their French eatery and cocktail bar. The beverage program, directed by Williams & Graham alum Jason Patz, adds to the whimsical atmosphere. Start with the 4 to 5 p.m. pastis hour, during which you can try the absinthelike spirit in a traditional setup with water and ice, then stay for executive chef Dominic Curry’s luxurious renditions of French classics on the dinner menu. The stag au poivre—elk backstrap rubbed with warm, charred spices and served with a black peppercorn sauce—pairs nicely with the dehydrated-truffle-dusted shoestring potatoes and the Sun King, a cognac cocktail with apricot eau de vie, dry curaçao, and Bigallet China-China liqueur. —ETHAN PAN
With the help of a new chef, five-year-old Somebody People continues to rule Denver’s vegan scene.
—AMANDA M. FAISON
One night each week, Somebody People, a vegan restaurant on South Broadway, throws an everyone-is-welcome dinner party. The Sunday Supper, as it’s called, is an all-hands-in effort, with every member of the kitchen staff cooking something and, often, executive chef Justin Freeman stepping aside to let someone else take the lead in an effort to encourage experimentation. The menu—which can skew Japanese, Thai, or even Irish,
although the restaurant usually serves rustic Mediterranean fare during the week—is determined by the desire to use up whatever ingredients are in-house at the time.
Although the Sunday Suppers have been around since Sam and Tricia Maher, who hail from Sydney, Australia, opened the spot in 2019, they fit neatly into Freeman’s ethos. The chef, who grew up in New York City with an Ecuadorian mother and an Irish father, has a profound sense of what it means to gather around the table.
“I want to showcase what we all do at our homes,” Freeman says. “It’s the sharing of food with the people you want to be with.”
This sense of community and collaboration, not to mention the screaming deal of $38 for six dishes, was on full display the Sunday I visited. First, the service was warm and cheerful, much like the restaurant’s pastel decor and beachy-chic vibe. Second, the place was packed with a diverse array of people—hipsters, 80-year-old regulars, middle-age couples—all in the name of breaking bread together. And, happily, there was wonderful bread: That evening, it was a sourdough focaccia
served with hummus and a side of punchy salsa macha, the dried-chileand-nut oil of Veracruz, Mexico.
What followed was a veritable rainbow of spring veggies, tossed and charred, roasted and sautéed, fresh and folded with flavors so deep and satisfying that I had no wish for animal protein. A mafaldine pasta (my favorite of all the noodles for its ribbony, ruffly shape) was simple in its description—blistered cherry tomatoes, sugar snap peas, and garlic— but buttery and lovely, combining the realms of pomodoro and cacio e pepe. The “butter” was a plant-based substitute for the real thing, of course, but it didn’t taste like it.
The dish of the night, however, was the cabbage. The usually tough and crunchy leaves were braised until tender, roasted so the tips of the leaves were charred, and drizzled with bagna càuda. Traditionally, the warm, garlicky Italian dipping sauce features anchovies, but that night, Freeman swapped in walnuts—and when I visited several weeks later, hazelnuts. The bagna càuda provides insight into both Freeman’s culinary depth and his vision for Somebody People. Although he’s an omnivore, Freeman believes in the Mahers’ ecofriendly mission and constantly works to deliver the satisfying mouthfeel of meat-based dishes through whole-plant cooking.
After he moved from Brooklyn to Denver in 2021 to open the Greenwich in RiNo, Freeman took his love for locally grown vegetables and versatile culinary prowess to Somebody People’s kitchen in fall 2023. The chef brings heartiness to the restaurant’s dishes in part by incorporating more pulses, which are high in protein, fiber, and iron, giving them a meaty quality. I couldn’t stop eating a winning lentil salad with asparagus, roasted turnips, and fennel fronds that was expertly dressed with a zippy lemon-Dijon vinaigrette. However, when I returned for a midweek meal, I thought the flavors in a minestrone-esque borlotti bean dish with arugula were muddled by too much salt and overcooked pasta.
The bean dish was just one of a couple of misses. A promising celery
salad with dates, smoked almonds, and dill didn’t have enough of the crunchy vegetable to offset the dates’ stickiness.
And a broccoli rabe plate with frizzled shallots and salsa negra made with dried chiles was too bitter, even for this bitter-loving diner. That said, there were far more hits, including the mushroom and caramelized onion arancini with a cloudlike lemon aïoli and the very cold and nuanced Dirty Deeds martini made with Askur gin, aquavit, dry vermouth, and celery and olive brine.
With Freeman behind the stove, the Mahers are still putting on killer Sunday night supper parties that draw the kinds of people you wish you could be friends with. And that’s not a surprise. The David Bowie lyric for which the eatery is named—“And all the fat, skinny people, and all the tall, short people, and all the nobody people, and all the somebody people”— is very much the restaurant’s calling card. Well, that and giving everyone a good reason to eat their vegetables.
The noodle dishes, sushi, and salads produced by these Front Range restaurants prove that you don’t have to practice veganism to enjoy plant-based cuisine. Even omnivores will adore these four venues. —AMF
This East Colfax hot spot serves plant-based sushi that goes far beyond a cucumber roll. Try the Ohnagi roll: tempura-fried green beans, avocado, and eggplant (a stand-in for eel).
Whole foods rule the soy-free and gluten-free menu at this Boulder eatery. The MC Green Salad—a jumble of greens, sprouts, purple cabbage, cilantro, cucumbers, and avocado tossed in a pumped-up pumpkin seed vinaigrette—is a nutrient-dense dream.
VEGAN THAI CO.
If you find yourself in Longmont, make time for a picnic with eats from Vegan Thai Co. The takeoutfocused restaurant specializes in dishes such as the umami-rich vegan pad see ew (add jackfruit!).
1165 S. Broadway, somebodypeople.com
The Draw: A satisfying and creative plantbased menu served in a lively space
The Drawback: The flavors and textures in some dishes don’t meld well
Noise Level: Medium
Don’t Miss: Sunday Suppers, braised cabbage in any iteration, mushroom arancini, mafaldine, lentil salad, Dirty Deeds martini ^ The mushroom and caramelized onion arancini with lemon aïoli
When scouring V Revolution’s Asian-inspired vegan menu, don’t overlook the Englewood restaurant’s black pepper mushroom bao buns. Pair the shiitake-and-king-oyster beauties with the V-fries, crispy tofu tossed in a sweet-spicy sauce, for a delicious and filling lunch.
DANELLE CONWAY doesn’t know much about Zion’s history, only that he was rescued in New Mexico and ended up at the Douglas County Canine Rescue. But she thinks there must have been some violence in his past: He’s got some scars, and a piece of one ear is missing. Nevertheless, Zion, a one-year-old, 75-pound bull mastiff mix, is beautiful, with golden brown fur and sad, imploring eyes. When she and her husband, Kent McKnight, met the dog and his foster family at a local park in May 2021, Zion seemed happy and craved human affection. The foster family said he also played well with their other dog.
Zion seemed like the ideal pet to Conway and McKnight, whose 17-year-old Lhasapoo had died earlier that year. The couple adopted the bull mastiff mix, and he quickly became a warm, playful addition to their Parker home, cuddling with them on their couch at night when they watched TV. He even behaved himself around their grandchildren. “He doesn’t have an aggressive bone in his body when it comes to people,” Conway says. Other dogs, however, proved to be a problem.
Two weeks after joining the family, Zion jumped Conway and McKnight’s fence and attacked a boxer that was passing the house with its owner. Both dogs suffered minor scratches, and the city, which prosecutes animal attack cases, issued a deferred sentence: If Zion made it six months without another clash, his record would be cleared. He served his stretch without incident.
In the meantime, Conway and McKnight enrolled him in a board-and-train program and installed an electric fence. But a year after the first incident, in June 2022, Zion went after another dog on a trail, leaving puncture wounds on the other animal. This time, he received a 12-month deferment and then quickly re-offended: In August 2022, he assaulted a third dog after pulling hard enough on his leash to cause McKnight to let go of the tether. Although Conway says neither canine was seriously hurt, McKnight fell and hit his head on the pavement, suffered bruising on his brain, and had to be rushed to the emergency room by ambulance.
In Colorado, a growing number of attorneys are dedicating their practices to four-legged defendants.BY SPENCER CAMPBELL
Denver law professor Justin Marceau and his associate Samara
Following Zion’s second incident, Parker’s Municipal Court had charged Conway under a municipal code that makes it illegal to possess a “dangerous dog,” defined as one that inflicts bodily injury on a person or animal, within town limits. In addition to the deferred judgment, Conway had been ordered to pay a $50 donation to the Buddy Center, an animal shelter in Castle Rock operated by the Dumb Friends League, a Denver-based animal welfare nonprofit. In November 2022, months after Zion’s third strike, the town ordered Conway to surrender the dog
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Treat Yourself Tuesday
Foodies love the options at Belleview Station so make Tuesday special and book a table. Head here for tacos, steaks, and everything in between.
Belleview Station Happy Hour
It’s happy hour at over 10 restaurants at Belleview Station. Check the calendar for hours and meet up with friends.
Team Trivia Night on the Beer Garden Patio
For an after work activity, gather your crew at 7pm for a chance to win prizes and enjoy a summer evening outside.
Live Music on the Beer Garden Patio
Enjoy live music starting at 5pm while you sip beers, ciders, and wine outside, then walk to one of many dining options for dinner nearby.
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Enjoy a yoga or barre class from 10-11am most Saturdays (check the calendar) and stay afterwards as the class entry fee includes a free drink.
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Sunday morning farmers market on Newport Street from 9am-1pm.
Enjoy live music, the Beer Garden, and plenty of lunch options in the neighborhood.
WEEKLY HAPPENINGS AND LOCAL DINING AND SHOPPING OPTIONS
Belleview Station is home to an array of dining options from casual to formal table settings and cafes to martini bars. Find a new favorite bar to watch the game or a patio to enjoy the sunshine with friends. Make it a day and leave time to browse and enjoy over 20 local shops and services.
Spend some time, Belleview Station style.
to the Buddy Center. “The legal concept ‘the thing speaks for itself’ comes to mind,” Judge Kevin Sidel wrote in his sentencing order. “If Zion must be outfitted with multiple leashes and collars and a muzzle in order to protect the community…the Town’s argument that Zion poses a danger to the community has been established.” The court decreed that the Buddy Center would decide Zion’s fate. Conway appealed the sentence, but Zion would have to live in the shelter while awaiting the outcome. That October, McKnight had died from an undiagnosed heart condition at the age of 62. A month later, Conway delivered Zion to the Buddy Center. “It was like losing two of your best friends at the same time,” Conway says. As she handed the dog over, Conway says she asked if Zion would be adopted out to a new family, one that might continue to train him, if she should lose her appeal. “They said, ‘He has been deemed a dangerous dog,’ ” Conway says. “ ‘We’d have to put him down.’ ”
EVEN BEFORE THE PARKER court sentenced Zion to the Buddy Center, Conway had hired a lawyer to represent her. In the not-so-distant past, she would have had to rely on a typical
criminal defense attorney (she, not Zion, was the defendant, after all), but a new breed of lawyer had emerged that seemed to be a better fit for the job. “There are attorneys that are popping out now that their entire practice is centered around animal law,” says Josh Rolfe, a lieutenant with Denver Animal Protection, part of the Denver Department of Public Health & Environment. “They are animal defense attorneys.”
Conway retained the Animal Law Firm, which Kristina Bergsten founded in Denver in 2017. (The practice has since opened branches in Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and New York and plans to open a Texas office soon.) That same year, Jeremy and Alexa McKay, graduates of the University of Denver’s Sturm College of Law, launched Environmental and Animal Defense, a nonprofit firm. Justie Nicol predates both the Animal Law Firm and Environmental and Animal Defense. After growing up in Holyoke, a farming community on the Eastern Plains, Nicol graduated from DU’s law school and spent nearly four years as a deputy district attorney in Colorado’s 18th Judicial District— where her penchant for prosecuting animal cruelty cases earned her the nickname “DA Doolittle” by her boss, George Brauchler— before she switched sides. She now resides in Golden and specializes in animal defense cases for the Colorado Lawyer Team.
Although these attorneys are concerned with broader animal rights issues, their caseloads focus more on individual animals, whether they’ve been deemed dangerous or are part of a tug-of-war between former partners in a custody battle. “There are many organizations that do great work focused on
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factory farming and bettering the treatment of, for example, chickens,” says Alexa. “But due to their large-picture focus, [they] may not be able to always pay attention to individual chickens. Well, our very first case was about an individual rooster, who was impounded and was going to be put to sleep just because it was illegal for a rooster to be in that jurisdiction.” Presumably for the well-being of its citizenry’s shut-eye, Aurora prohibits the possession of roosters; the McKays got it sent to
a sanctuary outside of city limits. “Its former caretaker was able to visit it quite frequently,” Alexa says, “and the rooster lived the rest of his life quite peacefully.”
The idea of an animal lawyer might conjure images of Ace Ventura, but the domain has become one of the fastest-growing fields in the profession. DU’s Sturm College of Law boasts the first dedicated animal law program in the Rocky Mountain region. Due to increased student demand, the University of
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Colorado Law School introduced two courses on animal law this past semester. “This field has grown exponentially over the past 20 years,” says Kathleen Wood, senior staff attorney for the Animal Legal Defense Fund, a national nonprofit. “There are more and more programs being put into law schools across the country... for attorneys who are looking to specialize in animal law.”
Of course, young lawyers wouldn’t have an opportunity to put those skills into practice if people didn’t care passionately about their companion animals, relationships that became even more important over the course of the COVID-19 pandemic. Not only did Americans adopt millions of rescues, but also, according to a 2021 study in the journal Animals, most owners who were surveyed believe their dogs and cats had an extremely positive impact on their well-being during the days of quarantine. “Even opposing counsels will be like, ‘Oh, it’s just a dog case. It doesn’t matter,’ ” says Cerridwyn Nordstrom, one of the Animal Law Firm’s five full-time attorneys and the only one based in Colorado. “But it does matter. People don’t see it as important, but to the people who it affects, it absolutely is.”
IF BERGSTEN, NICOL, AND THE MCKAYS are the fixers of animal law, think of Justin Marceau, the Brooks Institute Faculty Research Scholar of Animal Law and Policy at DU’s Sturm College of Law, as the academic contemplating the greater constitutional questions of the burgeoning field. Marceau doesn’t have any heartwarming anecdotes about a childhood pet that inspired his enthusiasm for the specialty. Growing up in Montana, his allergies were so bad that his parents shipped Marceau’s puppy to his grandparents’ house. At Harvard Law School, Marceau was readying to become a human rights attorney before he took an animal law class during his final semester. He had always been interested in how the law protects the vulnerable, Marceau says, and “animals certainly fit into that category.”
What also appealed to Marceau was the potential of the discipline. While lawyers can point to the Civil Rights Act of 1964 or the Clean Water Act of 1972 as landmark pieces of federal legislation that largely determine legality in their respective realms, animal rights has no overarching federal road map. Young attorneys are flocking to the specialty because it’s a blank page on which attorneys might ink the future.
Consider, Marceau says, civil rights lawyers in the middle of the 20th century. Some of them likely believed that 1954’s Brown v. Board of Education would be the hallmark desegregation decision of their time—but then came
the Civil Rights Act a decade later. “We look back and sort of tell ourselves a simple story about how it all came together,” Marceau says. “But we’re still right in the middle of that story in animal law.”
The Denver lawyer has been penning some of the story’s chapters himself. In the late 1990s, activist organizations began uncovering shocking conditions at industrial farms throughout the country. People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals, for one, released videos and photos of pigs being skinned alive in North Carolina. Rather than impose stricter rules on industrial farms, as many as 28 state legislatures reacted by attempting to enact so-called “ag-gag” laws, which essentially made it illegal for activists to take images of factory farms without the owners’ authorization. (Jerry Sonnenberg, a former Colorado state senator and current Republican candidate for the 4th Congressional District, attempted to pass such a bill in 2015 but shelved it before the vote.) Marceau worked with a team of lawyers that successfully had the ag-gag laws in Utah and Idaho ruled unconstitutional.
Like Bergsten’s, the McKays’, and Nicol’s work, Marceau’s sometimes helps individual animals. In 2022, a Utah county charged two
activists with stealing two piglets from a massive Smithfield Farms facility. Marceau served as a character witness for one of the defendants, conveying to the jury that the activist honestly believed that rescuing sick and dying animals was not only a moral obligation, but a legal one, too. Despite the fact that the accused had videotaped themselves taking the animals and posted the clip online, a local jury acquitted them of burglary and theft. Technically, the verdict cleared two humans, but it also resulted in the freedom of two piglets that had been living in deplorable conditions.
In Colorado, animals already enjoy greater safeguards than in most other states. The Animal Legal Defense Fund ranks Colorado as the fifth most protective state in the country based on a comparison of the strength of laws in 20 different categories, from “definition of animal” to “general cruelty.” In 2016, a defendant in Colorado attempted to dodge 22 convictions of animal cruelty by suggesting that the horses, donkeys, dogs, and llama she owned counted as a single course of conduct—one crime—so she should receive only a single conviction. The Colorado Court of Appeals rejected that notion, in effect ruling that pets and other animals would thereafter
be considered separate victims. It’s a small, debatable distinction, but Colorado is one of the few states to make it. Even so, Nicol doesn’t believe that the ruling has had a substantive impact on the rule of law. “In Colorado,” she says, “a dog is the same as a couch. Property.”
Still, that property is dear to many people, and in the near future, Marceau hopes to expand laws that permit the rescue of imperiled animals: In 2017, Colorado passed a bill that allows people to break a window to save a dog in a hot car. Marceau believes future legislation should extend the same protection to pigs suffering in a factory farm. Perhaps going even a step further, Nicol says animals deserve to have their own standing in court. “They aren’t people, but they aren’t couches,” she says. “They need to have a different classification in between.”
DURING THE APPEAL PROCESS, Conway came to see Zion’s continued captivity as a sort of living bond. To maintain her ownership rights, she had to pay the Parker Municipal Court $648 per month for boarding at the Buddy Center. Despite paying to essentially keep him alive, Conway says she was never allowed to visit
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Zion. Because he was deemed “dangerous,” he served his time separate from other dogs.
“They said they enrolled him in some enrichment programs where they would take him out for walks and play with him,” Conway says. “But if I called and asked for an update, I was told, ‘ We’re not allowed to disclose any information other than to tell you that he’s being well taken care of.’ ” When she dropped off treats and toys, Conway received the same response. (The Dumb Friends League declined to respond to Conway’s specific allegations but shared a report from a Colorado Department of Agriculture agent who found Zion “to be healthy. He did not have any obvious wounds or sores, he was a healthy weight, and was not exhibiting any stereotypical behavior indicating that his mental health was suffering.”)
Meanwhile, attorneys from the Animal Law Firm sparred with Parker’s prosecutors. Nordstrom claims her opposition accused her team of lying about things such as whether it was raining on the night Zion attacked the third dog and whose counsel first proffered a settlement offer. Conway says Parker’s attorneys went so far as to insinuate that McKnight had died due to the spill he took while walking Zion, even though an autopsy proved a heart condition had
killed her husband. (Neither of Parker’s prosecutors for the Zion case responded to interview requests. Rolfe, the Denver Animal Protection lieutenant, says he is not surprised that the town fought to impound Zion, because leaving an animal with an extensive record on the loose is “a big public safety risk.”)
All that mattered, however, was the law. A Douglas County court ruled Parker’s municipal code did not allow the town to delegate sentencing to a third party, in this instance, the Buddy Center. It sent the case back to Parker to decide if Zion was capable of being rehabilitated or needed to be put down—and if it settled on the latter, the court needed to show why Conway, who had already outlined plans to control Zion through one animal behaviorist, two leashes, three collars, and a four-week board-and-train program, could not be trusted to control the dog. “The trial court merely concluded that these efforts came ‘too late,’ ” District Court Judge Andrew Baum wrote, “without explaining why it is too late.”
In the end, the Parker court decided to return Zion to Conway, who had relocated to northwest Oregon during the dog’s confinement. In early April, 17 months after surrendering her rescue to the shelter, Conway
picked him up from the Buddy Center. “He greeted me and then went around and greeted everybody else,” Conway says. “Then he came back and gave me a hug and wanted to put on his muzzle so that he could leave.”
Zion’s release hinged on certain conditions, such as Conway placing a sign in her home’s front window that lets passersby know a dangerous dog lives there. Conway estimates she spent $48,000 on boarding and legal fees to save Zion. Still, she doesn’t regret hiring Bergsten’s firm; she believes Parker would have euthanized the dog without the firm’s help.
Despite what the state investigator concluded, Conway says that during Zion’s captivity, he became overweight, his nails overgrew, and patches of his fur fell out. In Oregon, she plans to work with a veterinarian to get a better understanding of his overall health, and she has already enlisted a trainer to help curb his aggression toward other animals. Conway works from home, so she and Zion spend all day together. “It’s basically just getting back into a routine,” Conway says, “so he can again trust that I will protect him.” m
Spencer Campbell is 5280 ’s features editor. Send feedback to letters@5280.com.
Angie Wells bakes tasty plant-based sweets at the Cake Bar.
PHOTOGRAPH BY SARAH BANKS
From the hippest new restaurant to the coolest bookstore, we tracked down the best of the Mile High City. Here, our curated list of editors’ picks, complemented by our readers’ choice winners.
EDITED BY SPENCER CAMPBELL & LINDSEY B. KINGwe selected this year’s Top of the Town honorees.
How does 5280 pick Top of the Town winners?
Our reporters and editors spend months exploring the city to choose winners for select categories on the ballot. We try to do our research anonymously and pay for all meals and services, where possible. Our readers also pick their favorites for every category by casting votes via our online ballot. The businesses that receive the most votes win.
Don’t the magazine’s advertisers automatically win?
Nope. Top of the Town recognitions are based only on our research and readers’ votes; there is zero connection between advertisers and winners. Whether or not businesses advertise does not influence our selections. Sure, we could make some folks happy by “selling” winners, but in the end, we’d lose a lot more than we’d gain—like our integrity and credibility with you.
How can my business get on the annual ballot?
Our ballot is a write-in format, meaning we don’t provide multiplechoice options. Voters can suggest whatever restaurant, store, person, or service they deem worthy for every category.
I have a business that deserves an award. How can I win?
Reach out to our editors with your story. Encourage your customers to vote for you next year. (The readers’ choice ballot typically opens in late January.)
How do I vote?
Visit 5280scene.com and cast your ballot. It’s that simple.
Johnny Curiel wants to be seen and heard. That’s why an eight-seat chef’s counter is the centerpiece of his first restaurant, Alma Fonda Fina, which opened in LoHi in December 2023. “If I’m going to do traditional Mexican food that is my heart, my story, my everything,” he says, “I have to be able to see the guests, and I have to be able to tell the story of why we’re here.”
That story starts in Curiel’s native Guadalajara, Mexico, where he fell in love with the culinary traditions of his homeland while working at his father’s restaurant. Although Curiel grew up in a household of chefs, he isn’t serving family recipes at Alma Fonda Fina. Instead, he draws inspiration from those recipes and uses techniques from his tenures with TAG Restaurant Group and Richard Sandoval Hospitality—which led him to cook in dozens of restaurants in Colorado and across the United States—to craft elevated variations of the food he grew up eating.
For instance, Curiel raises the bar on birria, a comforting stewed meat served at the eateries his family frequented after church every Sunday, by using a tender braised Colorado lamb shank—instead of the more typical goat or beef—nestled in a pool of adobo-pepper-zinged broth. And the restaurant’s frijoles puercos, a dish of refried beans and chorizo, customarily, that Curiel’s mother makes for him in Mexico, features house-made Mexican chorizo, creamy white bean purée, and smoky-tangy chile de árbol salsa verde. “I just wanted something that was super close to me to be part of the menu,” he says. Snag a reservation for a bar stool at Alma Fonda Fina’s chef’s counter and you can be super close to the sights, sounds, and smells of Curiel’s cooking, too. —Patricia Kaowthumrong
There are few countries with richer coffee cultures than Colombia, which is almost always one of the top three producers of the world’s favorite beverage. That caffeinated way of life is on full display at South Broadway’s LaTinto Café, a mural-bedecked, exposed-brick retreat that opened in spring 2023. In owners Jorge and Carmen Aguirre’s homeland, tinto refers to black coffee, but to Denverites, the word is now synonymous with specialty coffee beans imported from independent Colombian farms and roasted fresh in Colorado. The Aguirres don’t just serve liquid pick-meups, though. Their pastry case is full of South American treats: The pastel Gloria, filled with caramel sauce and guava; the pan de achira, bread that tastes a little like cornbread without the crumbly consistency; and acemas, wheat rolls made with panela (unrefined whole cane sugar) all go great with a strong cup of drip. —LBK
Carolina Zubiate has had quite a year. Besides winning the Hispanic Restaurant Association’s Hispanic Top Chef competition and working as a line cook at North Park Hill’s Yuan Wonton, one of Denver’s hottest spots for Asian dumplings, Zubiate hosts in-demand pop-ups featuring her native Peruvian cooking. We caught up with the busy chef to talk about overcoming trauma and about chifa nights, aka the reservation you didn’t know you needed. —Allyson Reedy
5280: You’re Peruvian, but you’re known for making dumplings at Yuan Wonton. How’d you get into Asian food?
Carolina Zubiate: I worked at a Peruvian restaurant in D.C., and [the food] involves a lot of different fusions—Japanese, Latin American, African—so I was always intrigued by different cuisines. I never went to culinary school, so I wanted to learn different cuisines so when the day comes that I’m able to open something, I can go back to the creativity and things I’ve learned from different chefs.
What brought you to Denver? Something traumatic happened to me [in the kitchen] in D.C. Moving to Denver, where I had friends, was my way of staying in the restaurant industry. I didn’t want to become a victim. But moving—that doesn’t happen in Hispanic cultures. You stay with your family or you move together. So that was very hard for me. You have to put yourself first at some point.
How did you meet Penelope Wong, owner of Yuan Wonton?
I did an all-women dinner with her and Ngoc [Nguyen, Wong’s sous chef], where we were paired with women sommeliers. That was my first time working with them, and Chef P is so talented, so we stayed in touch.
Can you tell me about Yuan Wonton’s chifa nights?
Chifa is a Chinese-Peruvian
dinner. It’s mainly Cantonese Chinese food, because there’s a huge population of Chinese people in Peru. I shared that with Chef Penelope, and it was her listening to me. Before we knew it, I shared one or two dishes, and the rest was her cooking her family’s food. The best way I could describe it is it was our
ancestors meeting for a meal, and it was so special.
What’s next? More chifa?
I would love my own space. I want to find something where I can do a ceviche bar pop-up a few nights a week. There’s nothing like that in Denver. I want to share that here, and a chifa night is one step closer.
Denver’s roster of far-flung cuisines is ever-expanding. Try these five spots for amazing diasporic foods.
—Lindsey B. King, Ethan Pan & Geoff Van Dyke
Don’t wear white to this southeast Denver strip mall joint; the seriously fiery, scarlet-hued Sichuan dishes coming out of its kitchen deserve to be eaten with gusto. The owners behind Aurora’s Dating Yumy took over the restaurant in March, but the meals here still sing with spice and heat, a result of the liberal use of red chiles and Sichuan peppercorns.
At Congress Park’s Sap Sua, co-owner Ni Nguyen transforms the flavors of his childhood—he grew up in Orange County, California, as the son of Vietnamese immigrants—into upscale savory plates, while his wife and Longmont native, Anna, spearheads pastry creation.
Iranian sisters Elnaz and Elhahe Azizi and their cousin, Ferydoon Asgari, opened this cozy Lincoln Park cafe in December. There they combine the fruity, floral, and nutty notes of Persian cuisine with Lebanese and Italian influences in a bouquet of dishes that range from rice plates to sandwiches.
David Hadley got an early culinary education from his grandma, who taught him the basics of Indian cuisine. After cooking school, working in Colorado eateries, and winning the Food Network’s Chopped, he opened the Samosa Shop as a pop-up. In January, the concept moved into LoDo’s Honor Farm, where Hadley now serves his flavorful Indian American cuisine.
LoHi’s Jacques is a bistro in the truest sense of the word: bustling, loud, vibrant, and very, very French. The menu leans into traditional bistro fare such as escargots, pâté, and mussels. Pair your bites with a glass of Chablis, and revel in Jacques’ ability to transport you from the South Platte to the Seine.
The dry-pot cauliflower is as satisfying as any meaty main: Chunky florets of the humble vegetable are tossed in a smoky, garlicky sauce with lotus root, onions, carrots, and green peppers. Served over a gas flame, the dish pairs well with the spicy, vinegar-spiked shredded potatoes, which remain a little crunchy after being stir-fried, and plain white rice.
The ever-changing menu takes advantage of in-season ingredients, but you can always count on the bap cai luoc (charred cabbage served with anchovy breadcrumbs and a swoop of egg yolk sauce) and the ca kho (grilled hamachi collar lacquered with coconut caramel) to be delicious.
For lunch, try the spicy eggplant sandwich: slices of aubergine slicked with a chile-spiked tomato sauce and topped with mozzarella, walnuts, and basil, all tucked between focaccia. For dinner, the zereshk polo—a saffron-infused pilaf topped with pistachios and dried barberries—comes with a tasty chicken stew.
The OG Samosa with potato, peas, and dried fruit will deliver exactly what you’re looking for if you want traditional Indian flavors, but don’t miss the Secret Samosa, which Hadley fills with a rotating array of ingredients, including a killer caprese with balsamic reduction. The Kerala fried chicken sandwich and the vindaloo chicken birria tacos are the epitome of fusion food.
Jacques’ menu changes every few months, but you’re sure to find mainstays such as baguettes with butter, French onion soup, simply but well-prepared steak, and, of course, frites. In fact, one could do much worse than making a meal out of those dishes. If seafood is your thing, try the buttery mussels.
Angie Wells is changing how people think about vegan and plant-based food, one cake cup at a time. After her in-home cake operation exploded during the pandemic, Wells saw the former Make Believe Bakery space for rent and knew it was time to get a brick-and-mortar shop of her own. Not only was she jazzed about the 625-square-foot space—located next to vegan/vegetarian restaurant City, O’ City in Capitol Hill—but she also couldn’t wait to send the hundreds of people picking up her strawberry crunch cakes to a location that wasn’t her house. Wells moved in this past August and sells the custom cakes that first encouraged a line out her front door, along with vegan croissants, cookies, kouign-amann, and macarons from 20 Colorado vendors. But it’s those cake cups—filled on the spot with a choose-your-own-adventure-style combination of cake, frosting, and toppings—that sell like, well, hot cakes. Think crumbled funfetti cake layered with maple-vanilla frosting, fresh strawberries, and caramel drizzle. The dessert is always plant-based and nut-free, but Wells offers a gluten-free option, too. “There’s no reason to pay into factory farming anymore,” Wells says. “You can have perfect cakes and croissants and be cruelty-free. At the Cake Bar, as long as you can have sugar, we can accommodate you.” —AR
Denverites, rejoice: Blackbelly took over the former home of Il Porcellino Salumi this past March, bringing an outpost of chef Hosea Rosenberg’s 10-year-old meat-centric market and restaurant in Boulder to the Mile High City’s Berkeley neighborhood. While the original Blackbelly location will continue to focus on using whole animal butchery to yield chops, steaks, and other cuts, the Denver iteration will center on curing salumi for both locations. The Berkeley shop has a fast-casual eatery serving breakfast and lunch and a deli stocked with fresh and cured meats, cheeses, and pantry items. We suggest curating a charcuterie and cheese board using this advice from head butcher Kelly Kawachi. —PK
Blackbelly offers 20 to 30 types of house-made salumi, including earthy coppa and well-marbled soppressata. Kawachi suggests choosing two whole-muscle varieties, such as gently sweet bresaola and prosciutto, and one option with a kick, such as nduja or chorizo. “The wholemuscle meats are good, but they’re not spicy, so I like to choose a spicy one,” she says.
Complement your charcuterie with three cheeses that have different textures and flavors. Kawachi’s picks include a three-yearaged Gouda (firm and nutty) and a Swiss Chällerhocker (creamy and salty). “I also like to put a soft cheese in there for variety, like some kind of Brie or Camembert,” she says.
Pile on the sweet and salty accoutrements and round out your board with sliced bread or crackers. “I like to have some kind of nut, a jam or fresh fruit, a pickled vegetable, and mustard,” Kawachi says. Blackbelly stocks Primo, a locally made line of jarred preserves with flavors such as raspberry habanero designed to partner with charcuterie.
When buying wine, get a bottle with the same origin as the meats or cheeses on your spread. “I don’t like sweet [wines], so I tend to go for something dry and acidic,” Kawachi says. “But it really depends on what you’re feeling.”
OK, yes, cultures the world over have their own versions of—and claims on—these culinary traditions, but our homegrown iterations are just as good as (if not better than) any other.
Brought to you by the team that made Marco’s Coal-Fired pizza a Denver icon, University Hills’ casual Dough Counter specializes in New York–style pies and slices (whereas Marco’s serves Neapolitan pizzas). In much the same way that it’s difficult to make bagels like they do in the Big Apple, getting New York–style pizza just right isn’t easy. Dough Counter’s thin-crust pizzas, however, are about as close a facsimile as you’ll get to the real thing this side of the Mississippi. The key, of course, is the crust: Dough Counter lets its dough rise for five full days. The result is a crispy, chewy foundation for sweet/tart tomato sauce, mozzarella, and whatever else you might want on top. —GVD
Denverites can’t get enough of G-Que Barbeque. Case in point: Since the restaurant opened in Westminster in 2015, its footprint has expanded to include seven locations across the Front Range, including a new concession stand at Coors Field that started serving wings, ribs, and pulled pork to hungry
baseball fans in the spring. Don’t miss founder/maestro of meat Jason Ganahl’s brisket, which is smoked to perfection over hickory, or his popular crispy chicken wings tossed in a different sauce each week (we like the Thai chile basil). —PK
The inventive sandwiches at Sunnyside’s Bodega Denver draw lines of locals, who flock to the two-year-old breakfast and lunch spot for menu items like banana bread French toast with peanut butter mousse and toast stacked with fried chicken thighs and deviled egg spread. But Bodega’s smashburger stands out for its comforting simplicity: The juicy doublebeef-patty masterpiece has a squishy potato bun and is layered with melty American and cheddar cheeses, dill pickled onions, and Colorado Fancy Sauce, a Thousand Island–like condiment with green chiles. Order the messy two-hander with the mixed bag of fries starter and look for a new RiNo location this fall. —PK
Museum
Charlie Billingsley celebrated her 31st birthday in 2019 by setting up a selfie museum honoring Black women at her friend’s clothing boutique in Aurora. Billingsley and her aunt Von Russ then took the experience on the road to Houston and Washington, D.C., but it wasn’t until last year that the duo found a home in their hometown. Thanks to a Downtown Denver Partnership initiative that provides temporary rent-free space on the 16th Street Mall, the museum brought its whimsical fusion of gallery chic and Instagram cool to the Denver Pavilions in October 2023. Inside the 6,000-square-foot venue, portraits of Michelle Obama, Maya Angelou, and local dance legend Cleo Parker Robinson sit next to works from local artists such as Shakerra Monét. The pieces rotate every three months or so, but one permanent element is Billingsley’s “Grandma’s Kitchen,” an immersive set designed to look like, well, her grandmother’s kitchen. “This is a place for inspiration and celebration,” Billingsley says. “We like to say that we want guests to come in feeling loved and leaving with love.”
Barbara O’Neil
On a recent Sunday at 6 p.m., Stay Tuned was packed with dozens of gyrating dancers bobbing their heads and bouncing to beats by Derek Plaslaiko, a techno DJ based in the Pacific Northwest who’s known for his marathon sets. (This one would last only six hours.) That the scene is popping off when most normies are winding down their weekends might seem strange to the uninformed. But reimagining the local dance scene is exactly what club owners Sam and Tricia Maher and creative director Alex Whittier envisioned when they opened the Ballpark hot spot this past December.
Whittier, a longtime Front Range electronic music show producer, says Denver has become too used to loud-but-bad sound systems, aggressive alcohol culture, and a VIP mentality that inhibits community-building. So he and the Mahers made their space with dancers in mind. The term “high fidelity,” for example, may have fallen out of favor since the 1970s, but that’s how Whittier describes the sound system at Stay Tuned. “Hi-fi means you can both feel the bass and still have a conversation with someone next to you,” he says of the 22,000-watt speaker system from Void Acoustics, a favorite supplier for top clubs in Ibiza.
Stay Tuned isn’t huge. Whittier estimates the 2,158-square-foot space can fit 175 people comfortably (it helps that there’s no VIP section). The intimate setting makes a four-footdiameter disco ball, previously owned by the band Cake, a statement piece. Elsewhere, suspended orbs cast colored hues on wall-hugging benches, where revelers can take a breather, and across a cement dance floor that Whittier says is perfect for doing the Dougie or the Bernie, thanks to its slick but not-too-slippery finish.
While alcohol is the only refreshment on tap at many clubs, the Mahers, who also own the Overland vegan restaurant Somebody People, commissioned a Mediterranean-themed pop-up called Pickpocket for Stay Tuned that includes such items as a beer-battered tofu “fish” sandwich. Dancers place orders along a curvy bar top and can pair their bites with Champagne-spritzed cocktails or mocktails such as the ginger berry fizz. Perhaps the most obvious nod to dancing’s pre-eminence here? One of the first things patrons encounter when they enter the venue is a hydration station. —Chris Walker
In 2018, Meghan Frank’s family purchased the Savoy Denver, an 1889 red-brick building in Five Points. The former social hall became the home of Theatre Artibus, a company founded by Frank and her husband, Buba Basishvili (pictured), that delivers physical theater at its most piquant, precise, and poignant. “The story lives in their bodies and faces,” says Jeff Campbell, the founder and executive director of Denver’s Emancipation Theater Co., “and it takes a lot of talent to convey a narrative with that approach.” But as stewards of the Savoy, Frank and Basishvili are eager to share its stage with other companies from around the region. As a result, the theater has become a secret gem for witnessing some of the most compelling and diverse art in the city, including this trio of shows that shined at the Savoy. —Lisa Kennedy
Basishvili packed a lifetime of quandaries about dreams, belonging, and immigration into April’s The Bluebird, based on a poem by Charles Bukowski. Full of captivating pantomime, the one-person Theatre Artibus show soared under Frank’s direction and sailed on original music by the Walsenburgbased band Homospouses.
Set at the Rossinian Hotel in Five Points during the Jazz Age, this February 2023 play by Emancipation Theater Co. captured the history of a storied place even as the piece touched upon a decision facing so many contemporary artists as their cities become too expensive: Should I stay, or should I go?
In March 2023, Boulder’s Local Theater Company put on a Lady Macbeth–worthy show, posing fresh questions about power and privilege. But audiences were perhaps most affected by the opening pantomime of a hanging actor, an indelible image that could only have been achieved in a space built for physical theater.
Before May 2, 2023, Rebecca Yarros was living a quiet life in Colorado Springs—well, as quiet a life as an author of 20 moderately successful romance books and mother of six can have. Then Fourth Wing, her 512-page romantasy debut that follows a 20-year-old woman who enters a cutthroat dragon-riding school, was released. In the swiftly rising genre, the elaborate worldbuilding of fantasy and science fiction is combined with romantic tropes and steamy sex scenes. Yarros excels at both, and readers responded to her self-assured, sex-positive female heroine and inclusive supporting cast. In fantasy, a literary realm long dominated by straight white men, more diverse representation is, apparently, welcome. Fourth Wing has sold more than two million copies globally and spent three months atop the New York Times’ hardcover fiction bestseller list. Fans flocked to release parties for the series’ second book (of an anticipated five), Iron Flame, this past November, and the next installment is due in January 2025. The surest sign that Yarros’ life won’t be calming down any time soon? An Amazon TV adaptation of the series is in the works. —Jessica LaRusso
We’re not always down with trendy ingredients in our cocktails. Fatwashed spirits are weird. Absinthe tastes like Good & Plenty. Seafoam isn’t awful, but is it an improvement over the salted rim? In contrast, aloe liqueur—a lowcalorie spirit made most famous by an 11-year-old California brand called Chareau—tastes fresh, is only slightly sweet, and has a velvety mouthfeel. That’s partially why we love the cocktail menu at Desert Social, which opened in late summer 2023 along South Broadway. A member of the family-run food-and-beverage empire behind Ni Tuyo, Adelitas, and La Doña, the former dive bar (you might remember Bowman’s) is now a breezy hangout with a Southwestern desert vibe that deploys aloe liberally. The spirit shines in the hibiscus-hued aloe margarita, but ordering the agua de casa, a ranch-water-style beverage with Derrumbes San Luis Potosí mezcal, Chareau, lime, and Topo Chico, is the pro move. —LBK
Much like making a great cocktail, crafting a great bar requires combining the correct ingredients in just the right amounts. Thanks to its flawless recipe, year-old Emerald Eye—opened by California-based Pouring With Heart, which also owns Seven Grand and American Bonded—is well balanced and well worth a visit. —LBK
ONE PART: Vibe Emerald Eye’s palm frond wallpaper, green and yellow ochre color scheme, dim lighting, and roomy, circular booths set the tone for a good time. But like any superb watering hole, Emerald Eye can shift its mood to match the time of day and the disposition of its customers. On weekdays around quittin’ time, the garden-level bar’s soft tunes and stiff drinks welcome what-a-day vent sessions. On Friday and Saturday nights, though, a movable wall slides away to reveal a dance floor. The Larimer Square address only burnishes the bar’s allure.
ONE PART: Menu Assistant general manager Nick Zerance describes the bar’s beverage bent as “dark tropical” because, he says, tiki can feel hokey: “We don’t play on the Polynesian theme, and there are no fire drinks.” Instead, Emerald Eye focuses on less ostentatious sippers made with rum, agave, tequila, and mezcal. The two most popular tipples are the Whoa Blackberry—made with gin, St-Germain, house-made cranberry liqueur, rosemary tincture, lemon juice, blackberry and raspberry syrups, and dusted blackberry on the rim—and the vegan milk punch, a cocktail Zerance spent three weeks perfecting, made with coconut and rice milks, four rums, cinnamon syrup, and lime juice.
ONE PART: Staff Every apron-bedecked barkeep knows how to mix a good libation. But it’s not all about shaken or stirred; it’s about good service, reading the room, and being jazzed about the job. “We all get excited about using different flavor profiles and giving people a taste of something they’ve never heard of,” Zerance says.
Until a few years ago, if you were enjoying Westbound & Down’s suds on draft, you had likely pulled off I-70 in Idaho Springs to wait out traffic at the historical downtown taproom. The brewery opened in 2015, quietly made very good beer, and even won the Great American Beer Festival (GABF) award for midsize brewpub of the year in 2019. But Westbound had bigger dreams, which it realized with the purchase of the former Endo Brewing space in Lafayette. Opened at the end of 2021, 4,000-square-foot Westbound & Down Mill (a nod to the on-site silo and the fact that most of the brewery’s production and canning now happens there) offers scratch-made pizza and 10 beers on tap. Then, in late 2023, Westbound debuted a small, stylish tasting room off an alley in LoDo’s Free Market, making it even easier for Denverites to swill its latest creations—which is good, because three of them took home medals at this past year’s GABF, the most of any Colorado brewery. —JL
The Medal: Gold, West Coast–Style India Pale Ale
The Beer: Westbound Select
Tasting Notes: A product of the Idaho Springs brewery, Westbound Select is rarely available at the Denver-area locales. So if you come across the 6.7 percent ABV IPA—whose “explosive aromas of tangerine, peach, strawberry, and melon give way to a light dankness,” according to Westbound—order it.
The Medal: Silver, New Zealand India Pale Ale
The Beer: The Spirit of the West Tasting Notes: Also a 2023 World Beer Cup winner (silver, international IPA), the Spirit of the West is an easy-drinking, 6.8 percent ABV dry-hopped IPA. Bold citrus flavors work to soften the bitterness associated with the style, making it a great starter IPA for people who don’t think they like IPAs.
Tasting Notes: This 4.9 percent ABV Mexican lager brewed with flaked maize may have brought home some hardware, but it’s not too fancy to come in a mug with a wedge of lime. Squeeze it in, close your eyes, and pretend your toes are in the sand of your favorite beach instead of perched on a bar stool.
Cochino Taco
Cochino Taco doesn’t have happy hour or even happy hours: The local Mexican chain dubs its daily discount drink period “Happy Time.” It’s a fitting moniker because, from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., patrons can snag a medley of drink specials, including $4 drafts, $6 margaritas, and a variety of playful cocktails—such as the Ahoy Chamoy, a boozy take on the savory-sweet fermented fruit sauce often found in Mexican street food—ranging from $5 to $7. Pair Cochino’s creative drinks with its equally ambitious small plates, such as the Doritos nachos (which are exactly what the name suggests). Warning: By small plates, we mean small. But at $5.50 to $6 each, you can afford a second helping. The only downside is that with seven hours of cheap drinks and locations in Englewood, Edgewater, and Arvada, there’s plenty of opportunity for your boss to catch you playing hooky when she walks in to do the same. —Nicholas Hunt
Rebecca Marroquin wants to dispel the common misconception that THC massages will get you stoned. They won’t. They will, however, tranquilize the trickiest aches by reducing pain and increasing serotonin, “which helps to aid in things like depression and lack of sleep,” she says. For Marroquin, THC- and CBD-infused topicals did even more than that, easing her pain from a broken neck. The relief she experienced inspired her to open Colorado’s first cannabis-friendly spa last month in Baker, where customers can enjoy a 30-, 60-, or 90-minute massage. After your back rub, stop by the on-site hair salon for a glam sesh, the coffeeshop for a (ganja-free) latte, or the mini-dispensary for one of the THC or CBD ointments that just pacified your muscles. —BO
To understand the story of this teeny, blue-painted bike shop in the northeast corner of Five Points, you first need to know the numbers. Like three: how many years co-owner and founder Alyssa Gonzalez has been riding bikes. And one: the percentage of bike shops in the country owned and operated by women. Also, less than one: the percentage of those that are owned by women from marginalized communities.
Gonzalez, who is half Asian and half Hispanic and queer, didn’t own a bike when she landed in Boulder for a master’s program in 2016. But like most transplants, she wanted to explore her new digs. There were a couple of problems with that, though, such as the sheer cost to get started cycling, rock climbing, backpacking, or skiing. The other big one: Gonzalez didn’t see anyone who looked like her participating.
So Gonzalez, now 30, took to social media, posting about the barriers to the outdoors she noticed. Gonzalez slowly built an Instagram following of roughly 10,000 people, who watched in real time as she started mountain biking (May 2021), gravel biking (July 2021), and talking about opening her shop “to get people on bikes in a way that feels good to them,” she says.
That idea became reality in September 2023, when Gonzalez and her business partner, Kolby Clements, debuted Treehouse. A full-service bike shop, Treehouse offers a complete menu of repairs, diagnostics, and custom-build (no off-the-rack) options. But Gonzalez also keeps an events calendar filled with introductory classes on topics like mechanics and bikepacking and schedules monthly group rides around Five Points.
In short, Treehouse’s owners do everything they can to get more folks in the saddle. “A bike shop doesn’t have to be an intimidating place,” Gonzalez says. “It can be a catalyst for community—where there is stuff to learn and a place to meet other people and everyone is welcome.” —Maren
HorjusAfter running her eco-conscious floral business out of her home in Whittier for six years, Kim Zimmerman signed a lease on a brick-and-mortar shop in RiNo. The location, which was slated to open in June, will provide more space for creating her organic arrangements—for events, restaurants, and Rowdy Poppy’s flower subscription service—while also allowing her to host hands-on workshops that teach the fundamentals of sustainable floral design. As a primer, Zimmerman provided a quick tutorial for crafting a modern, personality-filled arrangement that’s easy on the environment at home. —Michelle Johnson
When it comes to ecofriendliness, not all floral mechanics—the materials that hold stems in place—are created equal. Instead of single-use plastic floral foam, Zimmerman employs recyclable and compostable materials in arrangements, noting that chicken wire is a tried-and-true mechanic.
To create visual movement, incorporate what Zimmerman calls “the weirdos.” A curly branch or a curved flower adds extra personality, especially if you surround it with negative space to accentuate its form. Zimmerman also recommends playing with asymmetrical shapes and a variety of different textures.
The packets of powder attached to store-bought bouquets often include harsh chemicals. Zimmerman keeps blooms perky by giving flowers fresh, clean water each day, trimming stems every few days, and making sure no leaves or petals become submerged below the waterline, which encourages bacterial growth.
REASONS TO
Instead of sending your wilted arrangement to the dump, consider drying or pressing blooms, Zimmerman says. She recommends drying and flattening flowers beneath the weight of, say, a heavy book or a wooden block and then using them for arts and crafts projects or for mixing with essential oils and dried citrus to create DIY potpourri.
Dylah Ray left a career in politics to cultivate a space where LGBTQ+ Denverites feel safe to pursue their passions, connect with the community, and explore their identities. How did Ray pull off such a lofty goal? By founding a bookstore that’s packed with more than prose. Inside this Art District on Santa Fe spot, which opened in October 2023, you’ll find a flower shop, a writer’s corner, shelves brimming with bestsellers, and a robust inventory of queer and feminist literature. But Petals & Pages also hosts free and ticketed events nearly every night of the week, at least one of which is sure to appeal to the person you are—or want to be. At right, a sampling of the monthly soirées (check the website for exact dates and pricing). —Jessica Giles
Best for: Readers who relish quiet company
Pack your pillow, a blanket, and your read and stave off the Sunday scaries with a morning of leisurely page-flipping with other bookworms. Your $10 ticket includes a beverage and snacks.
Best for: Bookworms who want to move their bodies
If you need a little help honing your “come hither” eyes—and rereading all the steamy sections of A Court of Thorns and Roses isn’t helping—let dancer Sophia Eliana lead you in a beginner-friendly burlesque class. No matter your gender
identity, body type, or skill level, Eliana will ensure you leave feeling feisty and free.
Best for: Transgender Denverites with a competitive streak
Take a seat at the table with other trans folks for a communal night of bonding and board games. Bonus points if you bring something that everyone can play.
Best for: Locals who want to make a difference
Instead of doomscrolling at home, read up on current issues, such as the
Israel-Hamas war, with other aspiring changemakers. The club votes on a book each month and meets to discuss the selection with a local expert on the topic.
Best for: Those who get more creative with cocktails
Art director EmmaMay Beers will help you tap into your inner Bob Ross during this BYOB bash. (Beers painted the floral trim on the shop’s walls and curates the local art scattered among the shelves, so it’s safe to say you’re in good hands.) Each session has a different theme—stacks of books, bouquets of flowers, etc.—which means you’ll have a new creation to hang in your home every time.
I tried my first spin class in 2019 when, following a bad breakup, I hoped to ride my way to a revenge body. While the six-pack is still pending, I did discover sanctuary in the choreographylaced cardio workout. So when the first pangs of loneliness hit shortly after I moved to Denver in July 2023, I turned to my time-tested coping mechanism.
To be clear: I didn’t think riding bikes in the dark with bass so loud it rattled my kidneys would lead me to my besties. I just didn’t want to spend another night wallowing in solitude. I expected to slip into the Monday night class, claim my bike in the corner, and pedal anonymously until the lights came on. Viv Cycle had other ideas.
Since opening in July 2019, the beat-based indoor cycling, strength, yoga, and Pilates studio in RiNo has been cultivating connections through events such as member happy hours, speed friend dating, book clubs, and karaoke nights. But Viv’s instructors also inject vulnerability and intentionality into every one of its roughly 50 weekly classes. “To start to encourage people to be that way too has really helped that vibe of being authentic,” says Sophia Mar, a lead instructor and the chief marketing officer at Viv Cycle.
I felt that vibe almost immediately. Before the lights dimmed on my first class, chief operating officer Nadine Potter, also a lead instructor, welcomed me by name, and 40 people cheered like I’d just won a marathon. My cheeks flushed the same color as my hot pink Lululemon top—but not from embarrassment. Moving to a new city can be isolating. This was the first time in weeks I had been noticed by someone other than my dog. What followed was roughly an hour of coordinated chaos. We tackled long intervals out of the saddle and resistance drills so hard that sweat turned my top an unseemly shade of rouge. But I also belly laughed when Potter made us shimmy like Shakira, belted the Killers’ “When You Were Young,” and screamed like I was at a Jonas Brothers concert. Despite having logged more than 300 spin classes, I had never experienced such an electric environment.
The following week, we celebrated a fellow rider’s 300th class with glow sticks and hard seltzers. We cheered for a member who’d passed her nurse practitioner boards the week after that. At Viv, you have no choice but to be seen and celebrated. After my first class, Potter flipped on the lights and asked, “Jess, where have you been all my life?” It didn’t matter. I was never leaving. —JG
Although Mariele Ivy’s work is anchored in the West—she was born in Montana, lives in Boulder, and learned stone cutting in New Mexico—she used to source inlay materials from Afghanistan. Until 2017, that is, when she learned that the Taliban controls the supply of lapis lazuli, a popular inlay stone. Ivy immediately switched to domestic inlays, most of them coming from the West, instantly making Young in the Mountains more humane, not to mention more colorful and dynamic. Her Colorado collection, for example, pairs Centennial State stones— including topaz, aquamarine, smoky quartz, and Cripple Creek turquoise—with Ivy’s signature geometric and crownlike silver and gold settings. At its RiNo studio, which opened in 2019, Young in the Mountains will even switch in stones that customers collect in the wild—perfect for those who believe nature’s most enduring beauties are found in their backyards. —MJ
$10 & Under Detroit Mop City fly Three Anglers All staffers moonlight as designers for Louisville-based Umpqua, including Daryl Eakins, who designed this mop fly, which looks tasty to most aquatic grub most of the time. $5
Chris Keeley still remembers how intimidating it was walking into a fly shop for the first time. “They didn’t want to pay attention to me because I didn’t know what I was doing,” he says. “I never forgot that.” So when he bought beloved Littleton fly shop Anglers All in 2009, he vowed to focus on customer service. It’s been a winning strategy: Not only is the business celebrating its 70th anniversary this year, but under Keeley’s stewardship, Anglers All has expanded, first in 2023 with the Boathouse, a separate showroom at the Littleton fly shop for oversize gear like fishing kayaks, and then with a second shop, on Sixth Avenue in Denver, in April.
To put Keeley’s service-first approach to the test, we asked him to name his favorite Colorado gear at every price point. —NH
$50 & Under Whiting Farms 1/2 Rooster CapeBronze Grade
“Fly tyers know that the most premium feathers come from Whiting Farms,” Keeley says of the Delta hackle producer renowned for its flock bred specifically for their feathers. “They set the standard worldwide.” $50
$150 & Under Nomad Canyon Net What makes this net from Denver’s Fishpond worth a Benjamin and a half? The carbon fiber/ fiberglass construction is as light as it is tough; it features a long, flared handle for extra grip and reach; and if you do drop it, the Nomad Canyon floats. $150
$500 & Under Evolution LTX Fly Reel Keeley offers high praise for the reels made by Montrose-based Mayfly Outdoors’ sister brands Ross Reels and Able. And he’s not alone. Fly Fusion magazine bestowed an editor’s choice award on Ross’ Evolution LTX, praising its powerful, ultra-smooth drag. $475
$1,000 & Under G Series Fly Rod Scott, another Montrose outfit, introduced its G Series rod in 1976 and has been improving it ever since. The current version is stronger, more flexible, and lighter than the previous iterations thanks to redesigned ferrules (the joints that connect each piece of the rod). $895
It would be easy to make Sweeney Todd jokes about R&R Head Labs, but it takes more nuance to appreciate the mission behind the five-month-old barbershop on East Colfax Avenue. As the text on the sleek space’s windows reads: “We are not a conventional barbershop.” Indeed, the staff at R&R is made up of formerly incarcerated individuals—the shop’s website describes them as “justice-impacted expert barbers and other returning community members”—who are invested in giving you more than a sharp haircut.
On a blustery weekend this past spring, I sat down in a chair, described in detail the kind of cut I wanted, and then spent the next 45 minutes chatting with my barber about his past (including 14 years in prison); his present (not only cutting hair at R&R but also providing cuts at sober-living homes); and his future (continuing to stay clean and put smiles on the faces of his clients). My barber’s story was so raw and so honest that it was impossible not to be taken in by his candor and the arc of his life.
You don’t go to a barber for a story, though. I can only vouch for one barber at R&R— which has high ceilings and a welcoming atmosphere—but he was excellent. He listened closely to what I asked for and responded with questions. He was careful and fastidious. He washed and conditioned my hair after draping a hot towel on my face and used a straight blade to clean up the back of my neck. And the cost, before tip, was just $40. The result was a fantastic haircut that came with an equally poignant and inspiring conversation. —GVD
When he moved to Golden in summer 2023, Michael Tormey felt overwhelmed by his options. The Denver area teemed with so many trails—rural and urban—that the Maine-bred 26-year-old had no idea where to begin. A transportation engineer working in public lands, Tormey set his analytical mind to work connecting existing trails until he assembled a network that circled the Denver area. Called the Denver Orbital Trail (DOT), Tormey’s 177-mile creation comprises 28 segments, some you’ve likely tread before (Red Rocks Park in Segment Two) and some you haven’t (the riparian woodlands of Aurora’s Morrison Nature Center in Segment 16). A project independent of any agency or nonprofit, DOT’s specific routes debuted in April at denverorbital.org. Local striders are already flocking to the website. “Someone sent me a TikTok of them hiking Segment Eight the other day,” Tormey says. “He lives locally to the segment but mentioned that he’d never been on those trails before and never been to that park. That’s what I love to hear: That people are getting out and discovering new things.” —SC
Rodeoing ain’t easy—not for those looking to stay in the saddle nor for the people behind the chutes, who make riding, racing, and roping possible. But in towns across Colorado, where the sport lassos residents to their past and binds them together in the present, the payoff is worth the pain.
BY SPENCER CAMPBELL PHOTOGRAPH BY AARON COLUSSI Cowboys take in the scene at the Pikes Peak or Bust Rodeo in Colorado Springs.In small towns and medium towns, and even in big cities, there has long been a rodeo culture, one whose legends loom over the communities they still inspire.
Like his father and his father’s father before him, John Jolly is a member of the Deer Trail Jockey Club, a nonprofit that has organized the town’s namesake rodeo for around eight decades. But even before the Jollys became jockeys, feats of cowboy strength defined the small community: Deer Trail claims to have hosted the world’s first rodeo, on July 4, 1869, when, according to the now-defunct Denver Field and Farm, an Englishman named Emilnie Gardenshire won the title of “Champion Bronco Buster of the Plains.”
The tiny Eastern Plains town wears its brand proudly, though the title is far from undisputed. Two rodeos in Arizona—in Payson and Prescott— claim they bucked first, while a competition in Pecos, Texas, says the same. Jolly remains steadfast: “We’re the home of the world’s first rodeo, and until somebody finds a date older than us, I would sure debate it—and very strongly. It’s important to me.”
Dates: July 12 and 13
Location: Deer Trail Rodeo Grounds
Tickets: $10 Friday, $15 Saturday
What Is Deer Trail?: Jeopardy recognized the town for hosting the world’s first rodeo.
In truth, none of them were first: Hispanic horsemen have been rodeoing for centuries (see: “The New World” at right). What is undeniable, however, is that 155 years after Gardenshire’s legendary ride, the sport is essential to Deer Trail’s identity. Every July, the population of the 1,068-resident town nearly doubles during rodeo weekend, when people come from all across the Eastern Plains to watch cowboys and cowgirls compete in the dirt while visiting with friends and neighbors they rarely get to see. “These small-town rodeos are the lifeblood of pure rodeo,” says Michael Grauer, curator of cowboy collections at the National Cowboy and Western Heritage Museum in Oklahoma City. “That’s why the Deer Trail Rodeo still lasts, because it’s a big family reunion.”
Come midsummer, that party consumes the entire state of Colorado, with at least 30 cities and towns hosting rodeos both big and small. For those who participate, the expense and the risk are often great. So, too, is the opportunity to connect to a past that, though hugely mythologized, remains vital to a diverse contingent of Coloradans. On the following pages, we take you inside some of our state’s most illustrious rodeos and hear the yarns of cowboys and cowgirls to better understand life in their boots.
In Colorado, the Torres family creates a fresh audience for Mexico’s centuries-old horse culture.
In 1537, more than 330 years before Deer Trail claims to have spurred rodeos into existence, the Spanish government decreed that the livestock throughout the colony of New Spain, which comprised modern-day Mexico, had to be rounded up so ranchers could count and brand their animals. These biannual events soon included large, multiday fiestas, where the gathered hands began to show off their riding and roping skills in formal challenges. It might not be surprising to learn, then, that the Spanish word for roundup is…rodeo. Over the next half millennium, the hacienda lifestyle bred respect for charros (essentially, expert horsemen), who became heroes in the 1810s for their exploits during the Mexican War of Independence against Spain. Today, charrería is the national sport of Mexico—and it’s growing in Colorado.
From left: Courtesy of Deer Trail Rodeo; Getty Images (photo frame); Chris Sessions Photography
That’s partly due to the efforts of Roberto Torres Sr., who was born in Mexico and owns the Las Delicias restaurant chain in the Denver area. In 1990, he founded a charro team solely to publicize his business—he thought the squad might ride in local parades—until a friend invited his outfit to compete in a charreada (a charrería competition). The contest usually features nine events, or suertes; unlike in American rodeos, riders are mostly judged on horsemanship. The first suerte, for example, is called la cala de caballo, where horse and rider sprint for 60 meters before sliding to a stop in the dirt. The longer the horse skids without raising its hind legs, the more points it receives.
Although Torres didn’t grow up in the saddle, two of his children did. Roberto Jr. competes in roping events, while Naiomy participates in the only suerte that permits women: the escaramuza, in which eight sidesaddle riders perform a synchronized dance around the ring. They’re both members of Charros Las Delicias, one of more than a dozen teams now competing in Colorado.“We’re just people out here trying to feel closer to our roots and our culture in Mexico,” Naiomy says.
Charros Las Delicias is interested in raising the sport’s profile in its home state, too. The team has qualified for the National Charro Championship and Congress in Mexico, the Super Bowl of the sport, six times, but it also stages productions for the Colorado State Fair (September 3) and the Adams County Rodeo (July 25 to 27). “There’s so much opportunity here that we still haven’t opened up,” Naiomy says, “and so much growth that I think could happen soon.”
In Colorado, July is known as Cowboy Christmas for its abundance of rodeos. These four gifts can be opened on whichever weekend you choose to celebrate.
July 3 to 7: Range Call Meeker
Meeker held its first rodeo in 1885 and hasn’t let a Fourth of July pass since without corralling another, making Range Call the oldest continuously operating rodeo in Colorado. Expect fireworks in the sky, the arena, and downtown, where performers will re-enact the 1896 shootout at the Bank of Meeker. $20 for admission per event; the fireworks show is free
July 11 to 13: Cattlemen’s Days Gunnison
Local ranchers began meeting along Main Street in the late 1800s to square off in informal roping and riding competitions before formalizing the contests in 1901. Today, Cattlemen’s Days is an official Professional Rodeo Cowboys Association event—one whose Thursday night edition has helped raise more than $7 million for cancer treatment, via the national Tough Enough to Wear Pink campaign, in the Gunnison Valley. $25 for one-day general admission
July 19 to 21: Park County Fair Fairplay
The Park County Fair Rodeo might lack some of the bigger-name cowboys, but young buckaroos won’t mind, especially not when a carnival and circus precede the cowboying. Stay around till Sunday, when the little ones can compete in the Park County Kids’ Funday, which includes mutton busting, greased pig, and stick horse rodeo events. $25 for one-day rodeo admission
July 24 to 27: Eagle County Fair & Rodeo Eagle
If your summer vacation isn’t complete without a trip to the mountains, consider adding some barrel racing, bronc riding, and mutton busting to your itinerary. Celebrating its 85th birthday this year, this rodeo and carnival in Eagle unfolds on a property next to the town’s namesake river. $20 for Wednesday or Thursday, $25 for Friday or Saturday
Colorado lays claim to two professional rodeo organizations, one of pro rodeo’s premier events, and perhaps the best young cowboy in the country.
Keenan Hayes pulls his hat down so low that the brim pushes his ears out wide, creating an endearing, mousy effect. That is, until you zoom out enough to take in the whole scene: Inside a chute at the Norris Penrose Event Center in Colorado Springs, the Hayden-born then 20-year-old’s eyes are obscured by shadow, his mouth is set in a firm line, and he sits bareback atop a horse named Pass the Hat.
When the chute door opens, the announcer screams, “He belongs to youuuuuu!” to the crowd as rock music begins to blare. Pass the Hat slings Hayes back and forth—less like a ragdoll and more like a Whac-A-Mole, endlessly popping back up only to be drubbed again by the horse’s hindquarters. Almost a dozen collisions occur in eight seconds. Having successfully completed his ride, Hayes, a rookie on the pro tour, dismounts and lands on his feet in the arena’s dirt. “One thing is definitely true in this moment,” the announcer says, “that’s one of the greatest bareback riders in the game!”
Sure enough, Hayes’ score of 86.5 out of 100 is enough to win the Professional Rodeo Cowboys Association’s (PRCA) 2023 National Finals Rodeo Open at the Pikes Peak or Bust Rodeo. “I was excited it got moved to Colorado Springs,” Hayes said at the time, “and I got to get this win in my home state.”
To outsiders, pro rodeoing can seem like a byzantine affair, and the red tape emanates from Colorado. The Colorado Springs–based PRCA has been around since the 1930s and features rough stock (bull, bareback, and bronc riding) and timed (barrel racing and roping) events. But in the early 1990s, star bull riders splintered off to form Professional Bull Riders (PBR), based in Pueblo. The main differences between the two are that PBR organizes its own tour, while the PRCA governs hundreds of independent rodeos throughout the United States, 23 of which are in Colorado.
Dates: July 9 to 13
Location: Norris Penrose Event Center
Tickets: $25 for Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday evenings and Friday and Saturday matinees; $30 for Friday evening; $35 for Saturday evening Renaissance Man: The rodeo was started by Spencer Penrose, who also founded the Broadmoor.
In 2022, the PRCA moved the National Finals Rodeo Open to its hometown, instantly making the Pikes Peak or Bust Rodeo, first held in 1937, one of the jewels in the organization’s gigantic belt buckle. The PRCA splits itself into 13 geographic circuits; Colorado and Wyoming, for example, comprise the Mountain States. In July, the athletes who have won the most money up to that point in the season within their circuits descend on Colorado Springs to try to ride their ways to a share of a $1 million-plus purse spread across eight events.
The National Finals Rodeo Open, however, isn’t to be confused with the PRCA’s National Finals Rodeo, the end-of-the-year championship event in Las Vegas where the top 15 athletes in their respective events (regardless of circuits) compete for a golden belt buckle. But don’t worry: Hayes kept things simple in 2023 by winning bareback at the National Finals Rodeo, too, becoming the first rook to earn that honor.
Barrel-racing sisters Aleeyah (left) and Savannah Roberts
Barrel racing seems easy enough: Woman and horse ride a cloverleaf pattern around three barrels, and the fastest duo wins. But the experience, as outlined by Colorado Springs sisters Aleeyah, 22, and Savannah Roberts, 16, is far more exhilarating than it sounds.
Aleeyah: It’s almost like I’m sitting on a stack of dynamite and I’m holding the match. I know when I turn this horse loose it’s going to explode, and I mean explode. You know how much power you have underneath you, how much power you’re holding back. Your heart just starts to beat like—I don’t think it even compares with drinking five Monsters. Chugging them. And I feel my horse’s heartbeat at the same time. It’s the craziest feeling.
Savannah: I think the only way you can really describe it is “insane.” It’s dark out. You’re under the lights. There are people everywhere. Last night, I was at a little Tuesday night race. There weren’t even 40 people entered. And I still found myself shaking.
Aleeyah: I completely black out during my runs. Muscle memory keeps you in the saddle and makes you do what you need to do to get through the pattern. If I have a fast run, it’s like, That’s cool. What did I do? I have to watch my video. Some people forget to do human functions. They hold their breath the entire time.
Savannah: I do. I’m bad about that.
Aleeyah: You get thrown, slammed into—all kinds of things hurt. One time I had a horse fall on top of me, and then she got up and dragged me behind her. By the grace of God, I was able to walk away from it. Then, I had to get on that same horse and make a pattern. With every injury comes a sense of, Well, what’s gonna happen to me this time? But then it’s like, Well, what if I win? If you’re not bleeding—or even if you are, as long as you’re alive—you can go to the race the next day.
At Ace High Rough Stock Academy, a Coloradan is schooling the next generation of cowboys and cowgirls.
Human innovations such as barbed wire and railroads hastened the end of the Wild West, but it’s a human emotion that’s threatening the modern-day rodeo: fear. “Cowboys that ride bareback and saddle bronc are an endangered species,” says Binion Cervi, executive director of Weld County–based Cervi Championship Rodeo, “because they’re such physically demanding, dangerous events.” A stock contractor who raises bucking horses, Cervi was particularly concerned about what the shortage meant for the future of rodeos. So eight years ago, he started the nonprofit Ace High Rough Stock Academy, a free three-day clinic usually held at the Cervi Ranch in Weld County that teaches aspiring cowboys and cowgirls from around the world how to survive on a bucking steed. We spoke with three of Cervi’s graduates about what it takes to make it to eight.
“ On the first day, they get you on the bucking machine and teach you what to do—but you forget about everything they told you once you get on a real horse. My first ride, I got bucked off, but by the second day I was staying on. It felt awesome. Like, That’s what it’s supposed to feel like. It gives you confidence. I was all fired up. Then on the third day, I got bucked off, hit the ground, and—well, I don’t really remember much before getting to the ER.”
—Cole Hollen, 23, Texas
“ When the horse leaves the gate, you have to set the heels of your boots above his shoulders. You’re holding your feet straight out there until that horse breaks, which means it hits the ground, and that muscle and momentum send your feet backward. You have to get them back up in the shoulders before he takes off again. It’s a dance. At Ace High, I started to at least try to catch the timing. But it probably took me another three months before I really started to click.”
Zac Dallas, 22, New Mexico
“ You don’t only learn from the coaches. Binion explained the stock contractor’s perspective about how to be a horseman. If you sit on a horse that’s anxious, you got to calm him down, pet him, tell him that it’s going to be fine, that you have that rigging in place properly on his back so you don’t hurt him. Because it’s a team event. As much as it’s your performance, it’s the horse’s performance, too.”
—Andy Chalifour, 25, Quebec, Canada
In the warmer months, Steamboat Springs sheds its mantle as Ski Town, U.S.A., to pay tribute to its ranching roots.
Wearing red suspenders over a floral print shirt, his real hair tucked under a wig of long orange, blue, and white locks, J.W. Winklepleck clutches a handle in his left hand as the horse his rope is attached to takes off in a trot. Winklepleck crouches low around the first turn and traces his right hand in the dirt to keep his balance. At the end of the following straightaway, the horse gains speed and the rodeo clown finally releases his grip on the line and comes to a sliding stop.
The crowd erupts as Winklepleck steps out of the snowboard he’s just ridden around the ring and lifts it to the sky. The act, which Winklepleck calls “dirtboarding,” doesn’t always end so well. “Sometimes we ride it out, sometimes we don’t,” the Strasburg resident says. But even if he crashes, “it’s pretty entertaining,” he says.
Dirtboarding is appropriate at the Steamboat Springs Pro Rodeo Series. Although best known these days for its world-class ski resort, Routt County was largely settled in the late 19th century by cattle and sheep farmers, and its ranching industry continues to grow along with its winter sports economy: Between 2017 and 2022, the county’s bovine population increased by 31 percent. When the snow melts, the cowpunchers take Steamboat Springs back from the shredders (Winklepleck notwithstanding). “We want to keep ranching and cowboying alive,” says John Shipley, the rodeo board’s president. “It’s what separates us from every ski town in the state.” Plenty of high-country destinations have rodeos nowadays, Shipley notes, but many got their starts as mining camps. Steamboat’s authenticity is palpable.
Dates: June 21 to August 24
Location: Brent Romick Arena at the Howelsen Rodeo Grounds
Tickets: $15 to $50, $5 extra for the Fourth of July rodeo Younger Than Ever: In 2023, a historian discovered that Steamboat’s Fourth of July rodeo, called Cowboys’ Roundup Days, began 23 years later than previously thought, so organizers will get a second shot at celebrating its centennial in 2027.
The town does everything it can to make the summer last. Unlike most pro rodeos in Colorado, Steamboat’s runs for multiple weekends—10, to be exact, taking place every Friday and Saturday night from June 21 through August 24, with bonus bucking on the Fourth of July. Steamboat’s prolonged schedule makes it a popular spot for cowboys, especially ones looking for redemption. Seth Peterson and Chisum Docheff, steer wrestlers and coaches for Colorado State University’s rodeo team, spend their summers carpooling to different rodeos. “If you made a bad run the other night, you can always go to Steamboat,” Peterson says, “and flip your luck around.”
Ultimately, however, cowboys flock to Steamboat for the same reason skiers do. Peterson and Docheff may hit three or four rodeos per weekend during their summertime sojourns, but every time they pull into Steamboat, the mountains, the cool weather, and the old-time charm of the historical downtown make them feel like they’re on vacation. They’ll park their truck by the river, unload the horses, and then saunter along Yampa Street in search of some grub. “That lifestyle is going away,” Docheff says. “But when you go up there, you can still feel the cowboy heritage in that town.”
We asked Kirsten Vold, whose Avondalebased Vold Rodeo Company supplies bucking horses to rodeos, what it takes to deliver an animal that’s ready to rumble out of the chute.
On starting in the rodeo business
Harry Vold traveled to the United States from Canada in the 1950s intending to trade horses. He ended up leasing them to a rodeo instead, spurring a dynasty that would provide stock for more than 100 rodeos throughout the country. Upon his death in 2017 at age 93, Harry’s daughter, Kirsten, picked up the company’s reins.
On teaching a horse to buck
“There’s no way to train them to buck,” Kirsten says. “They either want to or they don’t.” Mating two successful buckers improves your odds, but even then, Kirsten never knows how a horse will perform, so she often takes her stock to college practices to get a sense of their desire to dislodge unwanted passengers.
On the mentality of a great bucker Horses don’t have to be ornery to make great rodeo stock. Kirsten raised a colt named Painted Valley in her backyard, feeding it cookies out of her hand. Despite his gentle disposition, Painted Valley became the PRCA’s Saddle Bronc Horse of the Year in 2010. “Some of the best horses are very, very docile,” Kirsten says. “They buck off cowboys because they don’t want to be rode.”
The Bill Pickett Invitational Rodeo has been righting the wrongs of Wild West history for four decades.
Maurice Wade’s heroes have always been cowboys. “Roy Rogers, the Cisco Kid, the Lone Ranger,” says Wade, who grew up in Michigan, far from the range. “The good guys always wore white hats, and I wanted to be a good guy.” Wade couldn’t help but notice, however, that the white hats also had white skin. “You never saw no Black cowboys,” he says.
Lu Vason made a similar observation in 1977 while attending Cheyenne Frontier Days, the biggest rodeo in Wyoming. “He didn’t see anybody that looked like him,” says Valeria Howard Cunningham, his widow. California-raised Vason had helped form the Pointer Sisters before moving to Denver to book Black acts for a local concert promoter, and the absence of color in the rodeo ring intrigued him. He soon discovered it wasn’t for a lack of history: Experts estimate that 6,000 to 9,000 of the approximately 35,000 cowboys in the American West in the late 19th century were Black. With that in mind, in 1984, Vason organized the all-Black Bill Pickett Invitational Rodeo (BPIR), which was named in honor of the legendary inventor of bulldogging (the art of wrestling a steer to the ground). “Lu said, ‘There’s incredible history here, incredible culture,’ ” Howard Cunningham says. “ ‘We need to share this with the world.’ ”
After BPIR’s first event at the Adams County Fairgrounds, it spent the next four decades traveling the country, taking its self-proclaimed “Greatest Show on Dirt” to 34 cities. Just this year, the BPIR participated in the National Western Stock Show’s MLK Jr. African-American Heritage Rodeo (its 18th straight appearance there), staged a five-stop national tour, and enjoyed a rodeo-in-residence position of sorts (four performances throughout the year) at the famous Fort Worth Stockyards in Texas.
Vason died in 2015, but his legacy lives on in cowboys such as Wade, now 76, who learned rodeoing after moving to Denver in the 1970s and has been showing off his roping skills in BPIR competitions since the 1980s. Even more important is the impact that Vason’s vision continues to have on young cowpokes of color. The rodeo, for example, organizes a show specifically for kids in Memphis. Howard Cunningham, who now runs the business, stands out front to greet children as they arrive. One year, a little boy in a two-gallon hat went still after catching sight of the arena. “I mean, he just literally stopped in his tracks,” Howard Cunningham says of the child. “He put his little hands on his hips and said, ‘I don’t believe this. There really are Black cowboys.’ I stood there with tears coming down my face because, at that moment, I realized that what we are doing is important to the world.”
Think riding bulls is dangerous? Try fighting them.
Rodeo bullfighters look very different than their counterparts in Spain: Instead of wearing a red cape and wielding a sword, they’re usually dressed like clowns. But their job is no joke. Bullfighters protect riders in the arena by drawing the attention of 1,500-pound animals away from vulnerable cowboys lying on the ground. Here, Burlington resident and 2009 PRCA Bullfighter of the Year Cory Wall explains the risks—and rewards—of the job.
“ Over my 25-year career, I’ve woken up in a couple of different hospitals, but I never felt like this was gonna be the end. I’ve broken all my ribs, fractured my skull, broken my collarbone, dislocated my shoulder, dislocated my hip, blown my knee out, dislocated both of my elbows at the same time, broken just about every finger, had a broken eardrum down in Houston one year.
You’re there to let them bulls do their job, which is to try to buck those guys off, and then you need to be there at a moment’s notice. Those bulls can only fight one guy at a time, so if a rider is in the arena, I want to make sure the bull is fighting me. They have big ears, big eyes. If you can get their attention, then they lock on to you, and you end up getting run over in place of the bull rider.
My first daughter was born in 2010, and two days later, I got mashed pretty good. They had to carry me to my trailer. When I got down there, I thought, Man, I’ve got this two-day-old baby girl, and she’s dependent on me to make a living for our family. My focus as far as what I wanted out of life began to change. Not that I quit anytime soon.
I didn’t retire until 2014. Waco, Texas. That was my last rodeo. It was pretty emotional. I was counting down the bulls. That’s seven more…six. After the last bull, I burned my cleats in the arena. If you hang them up, there’s a chance you can get them off the hook. I burned ’em to prove to myself that I was done.”
For 100 years, this handle mount, called a rigging and placed around a horse’s shoulders, has been the only thing keeping cowboys tethered to bareback steeds bred to buck like popcorn kernels. For almost as long, cowboys have been finding new ways to cement themselves to it—and perhaps no rider had a stickier imagination than Coloradan Jim Houston. In the 1960s, Houston replaced the soft handle that had been in use since 1924 with fiberglass, which was subsequently outlawed by the PRCA, then aluminum, which was also banned, then hard rawhide, which was deemed acceptable and continues to be used today.
Of course, the contriving didn’t end with Houston. Thicker gloves and a wedge discreetly placed between hand and grip make it almost impossible for riders to come loose these days, so when they do get bucked off, they often get hung up on the horse and dragged around the arena.
“It amazes me they haven’t killed anybody yet,” Houston, now 84 and living in Weld County, says. It’s somewhat ironic, then, that the innovation Houston pioneered to make the event easier has also ratcheted up the danger.
“He made it where you kill ’em off a lot easier,” says Binion Cervi, a Colorado stock contractor who breeds bucking horses. “And when I say kill ’em off, I mean where they don’t want to be bareback riders anymore.” m
This spread, from left: Bull rider Curtis Hobb Jr.; bareback rigging used to win the 1992 world championship
Fifty-one years after the first bore opened, the EisenhowerJohnson Memorial Tunnels are undergoing the largest overhaul in their history. The upgrades will be significant— but will they be enough to keep the critical east-west passage open for decades to come?
BY NICHOLAS HUNT PHOTOGRAPHY BY DANIEL J. BRENNER
do little to dispel the darkness that stretches uninterrupted for 1.7 miles. “I don’t go in here alone,” says Paul Fox, Colorado Department of Transportation (CDOT) region one tunnel program manager and my guide to the Eisenhower-Johnson Memorial Tunnels (EJMT) on this warm March day. He doesn’t seem to be joking. With no traffic flowing through the tunnels, it’s completely dark and eerily silent. I’m not sure why Fox didn’t bring real flashlights, and although we’re only a few hundred yards into one of the plenums—the access corridors that live above and stretch the length of the two vehicle tunnels—if our phones were to die, I doubt we’d make it back to the East Portal before sensory deprivation hallucinations set in.
Normally, there’d be ample light in the plenum, but the tunnel complex is undergoing a $71 million upgrade and repair project, the biggest since it was completed in the 1970s. Back at the East Portal structure, the EJMT’s head electrician, Richard Roybal, and his crew are paired up with a team of preventive maintenance technicians to install an uninterruptible power supply system, and they’ve shut off the electricity the same way you’d flip your home’s circuit breaker before installing a light fixture. The outage—and the traffic jam it creates—shouldn’t last more than 30 minutes, but Fox is eager to show me the plenum to illustrate a point: The tunnels aren’t some static structure. They’re alive.
“This mountain changes every day. Everything changes year to year, season to season,” says Fox, a stout man with a trim goatee and an easy laugh. “But you can’t change it in any way. You just have to work with it.”
Then, as if to prove him right, a CDOT communications manager calls Fox, but the cell reception is so poor the connection doesn’t go through. At nearly the same time, Stacia Sellers, another CDOT communications manager who’s organized this excursion, gets a text from Denver7 News asking why the tunnels are shut down. Short traffic holds such as the one they’ve enacted today are common enough that Fox usually doesn’t even notify his bosses about them, much less the media. To get a text now probably means something has gone wrong at the East Portal. We won’t know until we get back to the light.
THE ATTENTION FOX is about to get is a perfect illustration of what researchers refer to as the invisibility of infrastructure. It’s only when infrastructure breaks, whether it’s a closed tunnel, a broken cell phone tower, or a delayed train, that the public seems to notice it exists. “Unfortunately, we usually take for granted when things work, and we don’t value maintenance as much as we probably should,” says
Cristina Torres-Machi, an assistant professor of civil engineering at the University of Colorado Boulder. “But we also do that in our daily life. We only remember how good the dishwasher is when it’s not working.”
With America’s golden era of infrastructure construction behind us—a period which arguably began with New Deal public works projects in the 1930s and ended with the completion of President Dwight D. Eisenhower’s Interstate Highway System in 1992 just down the road in Glenwood Canyon—there’s been a shift in both academic thought and in practice at various levels of government to elevate infrastructure maintenance in the national consciousness, lest it arrive unbidden. In the Centennial State, there’s no better embodiment of this shift than the EJMT. It cost $262 million to build both bores between 1968 and 1979, or the equivalent of about $1.2 billion today. But calculating the cost of adding a third tunnel bore—something CDOT has identified as essential for alleviating congestion on the I-70 mountain corridor—isn’t as simple as adjusting for inflation. Modern environmental protections, safety standards, and construction techniques all drive up the costs of these massive projects, a serious problem considering the agency’s 2024-’25 budget is only $1.7 billion. When I ask how much a third bore would cost, Fox jokingly throws out a figure: $300 billion. Bob Fifer, CDOT’s deputy director of operations, echoes the sentiment.
“A third tunnel would be a major lift, a major cost escalation,” he says. “I can’t see that happening.”
The inability to green-light ambitious infrastructure projects is happening all over the country. Most of President Joe Biden’s lauded $1.2 trillion Infrastructure Investment and Jobs Act, for example, will go toward repairing or upgrading existing infrastructure instead of funding new projects on the scale of the EJMT. Even that $1.2 trillion is half of what the American Society of Civil Engineers estimates the United States would need to invest over the next decade to simply maintain its ports, electrical grids, bridges, and transportation networks in a “state of good repair.” “There is something kind of nostalgic [about the EJMT]—that they could gather the will and the funding and the common commitment to build these kinds of incredible engineering marvels,” says Steven Jackson, a Cornell University professor whose areas of study include the maintenance of infrastructure systems. “There’s some question if we even remember how to do that or know how to do it together anymore.”
Jackson agrees with Fox and Fifer that escalating expenses are a major reason grand public works like the EJMT aren’t often attempted anymore, but he also believes there could be a deeper, societal issue at play. “[Back then], there was a notion of government being a conduit for collective purpose that could gather and channel resources for projects like the tunnels, but it’s harder to see in our current moment,” he says. “The tunnels almost feel like relics of a bygone bipartisan world.”
All of this leaves CDOT with one option: make do with what it already has. For years, though, it wasn’t even really able to do that.
IN 2021, CDOT had $150 million worth of repairs it needed to make on the tunnel complex, an impossible task given CDOT’s annual $10 million repair budget for the 22 tunnels it manages. “It just keeps getting exponentially worse,” then EJMT resident engineer Neal Retzer told the Denver Post at the time. In response, the state Legislature tapped into the $188 million set aside by 2017’s Sustainability of Rural Colorado Act and passed Senate Bill 21-260 to create a new, long-term source of funding for CDOT by reorganizing the existing Bridge Enterprise into the Statewide Bridge and Tunnel Enterprise and expanding its funding through fees, such as one on retail deliveries like takeout orders.
The American Society of Civil Engineers has found that failing to maintain our infrastructure could cost the country’s GDP $10 trillion over the next two decades. “The rule of thumb is that it usually costs 10 times more to rehabilitate [infrastructure] when the condition is very poor compared to preservation,” says CU Boulder’s Torres-Machi. CDOT has done its own estimates and found that every $4 spent on proactive resilience measures saves $25 on future repairs. Those numbers are compelling; however, it is important to keep in mind that for every hour the tunnels are closed to traffic for repairs, nearby mountain towns lose $1.6 million in economic impact.
The ongoing $71 million project includes: $8.5 million to install electronic messaging signs and replace the aging analog cameras used to monitor traffic; $8 million to repair guardrails, install a retaining wall, and perform miscellaneous repairs around the tunnel complex itself; and $28 million to revamp the tunnels’ plumbing to prevent pipes from freezing and to improve first responders’ access to fire hose connections. Roughly $25 million has been earmarked to battle the Ice Monster.
If you’ve ever driven through the tunnels in the winter, you’ve likely seen the Ice Monster. This not-so-mythical beast usually forms just inside the tunnel mouths when water seeps through the mountain rock and permeates the EJMT’s broken waterproof liners, where it collects in the plenums, freezes, and slowly gathers on the roadways below, forming Lilliputian
glaciers. Every time maintenance staff patches a hole to stop a leak, the water finds another way in.
Left unchecked, the Ice Monster would block tunnel traffic in a matter of hours, so Fox’s staff is constantly scraping it off the asphalt with heavy machinery. If the contractor CDOT has hired for the project can just shepherd the leak away from the tunnel entrances and into the interior, where the temperature is warm enough that the water won’t freeze, Fox will be happy. But nothing is that simple. Before repairs could begin on the liner, for example, the contractor had to suspend a walkway from each plenum’s arched concrete ceiling because the floor—which is also the roof of the vehicle tunnel below—isn’t strong enough to support the equipment the job requires.
The plenum’s original floor isn’t strong enough to support the Ice Monster, either. During our tour, Fox stops us in the dark and swings his phone’s flashlight over the edge of the ad hoc gangplank. Caught in the beam, a pseudo-stalagmite reaches up from the floor for a few feet before latching onto the wall like ivy. The high-alpine water is so pure that the pillar is perfectly clear. You could make craft cocktail ice cubes with it.
Below the frozen pillar, more ice spreads in all directions around a drain that leads down into the vehicle tunnel. To keep it clear, and
the ice to a minimum, there is a mobile heater nearby. “We shut it off yesterday, and the drain’s already frozen over,” Fox says as he inspects the area. When it’s running, though, the heater seems to do the trick so at least the floor won’t buckle—or worse, collapse into the tunnel below.
EARLIER IN JANUARY, Fifer is like a proud parent as he shows off CDOT’s new tunnel command center, located inside a previously mothballed engineering building outside the West Portal. The renovation is part of a separate but concurrent project to improve traffic flow and working conditions at the complex. Although the building isn’t open yet, it already sports beds with hospital-style curtains, showers, and a break room for when the staff pulls 15-hour shifts to keep the tunnels open during snowstorms. One room over, the new command center has a two-story-tall video screen that fills an entire wall.
When the building officially opens this fall, the staff will use it to monitor new cameras for anything that could slow down traffic, including oversize loads, stuck cars, vehicle fires, and medical emergencies. They’ll also be able to reconfigure the screens on the fly so they can patch into emergency CDOT video calls during blizzards, watch weather radar, and scan traffic maps.
“We’re going from 20-year-old, fuzzy TVs to a system where we can look almost a mile away and read a license plate,” Fifer says. Visually, the entire building is a 180 from the current windowless command center located in the tunnels’ East Portal, where the exposed concrete, clunky physical switches, and analog dials give off Cold War missile bunker vibes. The new desks even have built-in hand warmers. “Our employees up here have a hard job,” Fifer says, “and we need to make sure we’re paying attention to their needs.”
The staff would have already finished moving into its new digs by the time of my January tour if it weren’t for one problem: They can’t figure out how to integrate the existing overheight detection system, a laser that’s triggered when a passing semitruck exceeds the tunnels’ height restrictions, with the new command center’s fiber-optic nervous system. “It’s so old,” Fifer says, “that it’s like trying to get something from a telephone in the 1960s onto the smartphone in your hand.”
Integrating the old and new isn’t just a physical problem; it’s a personnel one, too. Gone are the hammer slingers who were experts in hitting heavy things with other heavy things to get them to work again. At facilities as complex as this, everyone also needs to be digitally savvy, and that change comes with a new name. They’re no longer simply maintenance workers. They’re maintainers. “It is becoming more of a technical job,” Fox says. “Everybody’s born with a cell phone in their hand…so if we’re not willing to change, we’re going to be left behind.”
That moniker comes with better pay in recognition of the skills the tunnels require, something academics who study infrastructure maintenance have long advocated for. Studies have shown that
Step inside 5280’s Hall of Fame! In this exclusive special advertising section, we shine a spotlight on the outstanding professionals who have achieved unparalleled success in their respective fields. Discover the stories and achievements of these professionals who have been honored by 5280’s editorial team as the Mile High City’s best.
HONORING TOP OF THE TOWN WINNERS AND TOP LAWYERS, PRODUCERS, DENTISTS, AND DOCTORS.
Messner Reeves LLP is a full-service business law firm founded in 1995 in Denver, Colorado. Our litigation and trial lawyers are case- and award-winning.
At Messner Reeves, our attorneys collaborate closely, leveraging the firm’s extensive resources to deliver exceptional localized legal services in the areas where our business clients need them most. We have earned a distinguished reputation for providing effective legal counsel, a testament to our unwavering commitment to the highest professional integrity.
RECENT HIGHLIGHTS
• Secured $18 million jury verdict in a federal design patent and trademark infringement case
• Named one of the “Best Companies to Work For: Law Firms” in the 2024 U.S. News & World Report®
• Listed for the 14th consecutive year in the 2024 U.S. News – Best Lawyers® “Best Law Firms” list regionally in six practice areas
• Achieved the Midsize Mansfield Certification Plus, an extension of the renowned Mansfield Rule, the highest certification provided for fostering diversity and inclusion at all levels of leadership within our firm.
OUR SERVICES
• Corporate Law
• Commercial Real Estate
• Litigation & Corporate Defense
• Intellectual Property
• Immigration
• Licensing & Permitting
• Labor & Employment
• Professional Liability
• Retail Restaurants & Hospitality
• Trusts & Estates
• Healthcare Law
• Cannabis
LEARN MORE ABOUT OUR CAPABILITIES
We’ve built a team we are proud of, and you will be proud to work with.
5280 TOP LAWYER WINNERS: Bruce A. Montoya, 2015–2024; Michelle L. Harden, 2016–2024; David Reeves, 2019–2020 & 2023; Caleb Meyer, 2020; Wade Warthen, 2023
1550 Wewatta Street, Suite 710 Denver, CO 80202
303.623.1800 messner.com
Construction Law & Alternative Dispute Resolution
THE HOLT GROUP LLC
After four decades led by “Ty” Holt, our team continues to provide nationally recognized, high quality, and effective legal advice and representation to our owner, general contractor, design professional, public entity, business, and insurance industry clients. We use all of our skills to protect our clients’ legitimate business interests!
WESTERN NEUTRAL SERVICES, LLC
Over the last thirty years as an arbitrator and mediator, Ty Holt has earned a national reputation for his knowledgeable, clear, and effective dispute resolution services. He uses his trial and industry experience to develop and implement processes that allow the Parties to resolve disputes. You want it resolved? – Call Ty!
1675 Broadway, Suite 2100 Denver, CO 80202
303.225.8500 | holtllc.com westernneutralservices.com
Double Black Diamond Real Estate Producers
Stephanie Iannone and Mindy Nassar of the Iannone Group at Compass bring over 30 years of experience in the real estate, relocation and residential development industries. Their dedication to their clients, leadership in the community, strategic negotiation skills and marketing and design savvy have made them one of the most successful teams in Colorado. Nationally ranked, they have successfully closed over $700,000,000 in real estate transactions, won numerous awards and appeared on HGTV. They enjoy everlasting bonds with their clients who become friends for life and specialize in the Boulder and Denver Metro areas as well as Winter Park and Grand County.
stephanie@iannonegroup.com mindy@iannonegroup.com 303.641.7484 | compass.com
Angelique Salazar, the visionary entrepreneur behind the award-winning U Lucky Dog (Club ULD), is taking her passion for exceptional pet care to new heights with an exciting announcement, “CLUB ULD IS EXPANDING!” Recently, Club ULD purchased the adjacent lot next to their current location, adding a 3,000 square foot warehouse for indoor play and nearly 16,000 square feet of additional outdoor play area for the dogs!
Angelique’s commitment to providing top-notch care for both clients and their beloved pets remains unwavering as she continues to prioritize ways to grow and add value to their exceptional services. Club ULD has an unprecedented 4.7 star Google rating from loyal clients (750+ reviews) and they’re known for providing a safe, fun, and enriching environment for their lucky dogs. The facility also offers boarding, luxury suites, individual play, bathing services, oneon-one walks and more.
This significant expansion not only showcases Angelique’s dedication to continuous improvement and growth but also underscores her passion for setting new standards in the
dog care industry. By offering an unparalleled outdoor play experience and a spacious indoor facility, Club ULD is poised to redefine the daycare experience for dogs in Denver while maintaining the personalized attention and care that clients have come to know and trust. Angelique truly embodies the entrepreneurial spirit as she pursues her passion and creates new opportunities that strengthen the neighborhood and community.
Get ready to witness a new chapter in pet care with Club ULD’s upcoming expansion!
Want to learn more about Club ULD?
Check out their website at ClubULDDogDaycare.com or call 720-328-8179. First day of daycare is free for new clients!
4125 Elati Street Denver, CO 80216
720.328.8179
clubULDdogdaycare.com
There is no better place to have Indian food than Little India Restaurant & Bar. The restaurant opened its doors to Denver citizens in 1998 and has enjoyed great success, greatly owing to the continued efforts to bring authentic and traditional Indian cuisines to the people of Denver. The quality of our food, the ambiance of the restaurant and the service offered are truly commendable.
The restuarant has a menu full of delicious Indian cuisines that will leave you asking for more even after a full threecourse meal. The menu is quite captivating with dishes like Indian vegetable preparations, curries, spicy and delicious biryanis, tandoor items, daals, etc. The entrees can be clubbed with appetizers like vindaloos and onion pakoras as well as desserts like kheer to make a completely satisfying and wonderful experience.
6th Ave. | Downing Highlands | Central Park littleindiaofdenver.com
Jacci Geiger and Sana Wood, Kentwood Real Estate, the #1 Duo of 2023 at Kentwood Cherry Creek and Top Real Estate Producers. With a philosophy that “Experience is Everything,” they bring a unique blend of real estate expertise and a background in building and interior design. They pride themselves on the 3 C’s: Connection, Communication and Collaboration. Going beyond traditional services, they offer a full-service experience, handling everything from deep cleaning & staging to complete remodels, making the moving process stress-free for their clients.
With over 40 years of combined experience, Jacci and Sana are dedicated to maximizing returns on investments and guiding clients through a successful real estate journey. For their personalized and professional expertise, connect with them through Kentwood Real Estate.
Double Black Diamond Real Estate Producers Jacci: Jacci: 303.840.7777 | jacci@kentwood.com Sana: Sana: 303.881.3514 | sana@sanawood.com
TOP LAWYER WINNER • 2022-2024
Lauren Varner specializes in plaintiffs’ personal injury and wrongful death and proudly champions the legal and moral rights of those whose bodies have been violated and lives profoundly changed at the careless hands of another. Her work includes protecting clients from being kicked when they’re down by insurance companies, holding those companies accountable to their promises, and empowering clients to courageously persevere to reclaim what is rightfully theirs. Specifically, she handles cases involving car, motorcycle, bus, bicycle, and pedestrian crashes, trucking collisions, drunk driving incidents, catastrophic injuries, accidents on another’s property, dog bites, and more. Lauren regularly achieves six and seven figure resolutions on behalf of clients and has successfully required insurance companies to pay her clients more than the amount of their insured’s available insurance coverage.
As a founding partner of Varner Faddis Elite Legal, Lauren has created a new kind of injury law firm that is dedicated to providing white-glove, luxury legal services and a brand that promotes authenticity and self-expression. VFEL is run by lawyers who aren’t afraid to be themselves, say what they mean, and boldly challenge the disenfranchising narratives spun by insurance defense lobbyists to make conditions better for all personal injury cases to come.
Lauren has most notably received 5280’s Top Lawyer designation three years in a row, has been named a SuperLawyers Rising Star annually since 2019, and was chosen as one of Law Week Colorado’s Top Women in 2019. Lauren has dedicated her time as a board member of the Colorado Trial Lawyers Association, chair of the Women Trial Lawyers Network, and mentor to DU law students.
6025 South Quebec Street Suite 100 Centennial, CO 80111
720.770.8335 varnerfaddis.com
LAWYER WINNER • 2022-2024
As a removal defense attorney and adjunct professor of immigration law at the University of Denver Sturm College of Law, Christine M. Hernández is often the last line of defense in deportation proceedings, fighting for her clients to remain in the U.S. with their families. Christine’s approach to the practice of immigration law is best described as zealous, fearless and creative advocacy.
1801 York Street, Denver, CO 80206
303.623.1122 | hdezlaw.com
Griffiths Law’s 5280 Top Lawyers, Suzanne Griffiths and Duncan Griffiths, are part of our unrivaled team of attorneys. Griffiths Law is the right choice for Colorado family law and civil litigation cases. Ranging from the straightforward to the highly complex, Griffiths Law always provides a well-prepared case. We litigate. We collaborate. We protect your future.
10457 Park Meadows Drive Lone Tree, CO 80124
303.858.8090 | griffithslawpc.com
Valeri Pappas’s litigation experience includes participating in all phases of multi-million-dollar litigation. Valeri’s securities experience is primarily representing aggrieved investors in securities fraud actions. Her practice areas also include employment, and commercial and civil litigation. Valeri chairs the Board of Directors at Boys and Girls Club of Metro Denver, teaches at NITA and is on the Board of the CWBA Foundation.
1600 Stout Street, Suite 1710
Denver, CO 80202
303.534.9000 | davisandceriani.com
Stephen Burg is a shareholder and a trial attorney with Burg Simpson Eldredge Hersh & Jardine. As the Practice Group Leader of the firm’s Personal Injury Department, Stephen is focused on representing victims of automobile and motorcycle crashes, trucking collisions, product liability injuries, gas explosions, wrongful death, sexual assault, and harmful drugs and medical devices. Mr. Burg’s most recent trial resulted in a $18,105,000.00 verdict.*
A dedicated advocate for those who have been harmed by the negligence of others, Stephen Burg has a long-standing reputation for his formidable skills as a litigator and a negotiator. He has a passion for holding negligent parties accountable for their actions and for maximizing financial recoveries for his clients.
Mr. Burg has been recognized for his legal excellence both nationally and locally. He was named as a “Recommended Attorney” by the U.S. Legal 500, and has been consistently recognized by the National Trial Lawyers as a “Top 100 Trial Lawyer” since 2012. He has also been selected by his peers as a Best Lawyer in America and a Colorado Super Lawyer.
*past results do not guarantee future success
Mr. Chayet is the founder and Managing Partner of Chayet & Danzo LLC and ColoradoElderlaw.com. We specialize in the needs of your family, the elderly, disabled and at risk in our community including estate planning, probate litigation, guardianships & conservatorships. Mr. Chayet is the Public Administrator of the 18th Judicial District and an Adjunct Professor of Elder Law at the Univ. of Colorado School of Law. Marco D. Chayet - Elder &
650 S. Cherry Street, Suite 710 Denver, CO 80246
303.355.8500 | coloradoelderlaw.com
Shawn D. Meade Immigration Law
MyRights Immigration Law Firm has represented non-citizens in all types of immigration cases for over 10 years. Thousands of clients have obtained lawful status with the help of MyRights Immigration Law Firm’s skilled attorneys.
8205 E. Colfax Avenue Denver, CO 80220 303.495.5121 | myrightsimmigration.com
Family owned for over 50 years, WRC has been enhancing lives through cycling in the Denver metro area. We provide premium hospitality, industry leading service, and the largest selection of bikes, e-bikes, and gear. Come in to either location and experience the top-notch care and support we’re known for!
Wheat Ridge | Ken Caryl 303.424.3221 wheatridgecyclery.com
Dr. Sawaqed is a dental professional with a long history of training and experience. He completed his first dental degree in Jordan in 2002, then earned a master’s in dentistry in 2007. He graduated from the University of Colorado School of Dental Medicine in 2009 and have been practicing in the US ever since.
He is passionate about staying up-to-date with the latest developments in the dental field, dedicating time each month to continuing his education. Confident that digital dentistry will revolutionize the field, he enjoys being part of a practice that’s so well-equipped to make that future a reality.
Dr. Sawaqed founded Lakewood Dental of Colorado in 2013 and has treated thousands of patients over the course his tenure.
Lakewood Dental of Colorado 303.233.1112 | lakewooddentalco.com Arvada Implants & Cosmetic Dentistry 720.784.7773 | arvadaimplantcenter.com
Denver Athletic Club
Located in the heart of downtown Denver, The Denver Athletic Club features 125,000 square feet of athletic facilities. Whether you are a runner, swimmer, skier, racquet sports enthusiast, triathlete, yogi or X-Fit fanatic — take your training to the next level at The DAC.
Home to the best squash program in Colorado, members also access:
• 7 international Squash courts
• 6 racquetball courts
• 10,000 square feet of cardiovascular and weight training equipment
• Full size basketball, volleyball, pickeball courts
• 100 free group exercise classes per week
• 25-meter, 8 lane indoor swimming pool
• Boxing room
• Indoor Golf Simulator
• Massage therapy — same-day appointments
• X-Fit Studio
…all in one club!
Open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week
LEARN MORE ABOUT THE DAC
Indicates a restaurant featured in 5280 for the first time (though not necessarily a restaurant that has just opened).
Indicates inclusion in 5280’s 2023 list of Denver’s best restaurants. These selections are at the discretion of 5280 editors and are subject to change
A5 STEAKHOUSE
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LoDo / Steak House This unfussy chophouse by the team behind Forget Me Not and Tap and Burger features perfectly seared steaks, hearty sides, and draft cocktails. Never pass up the beef tartare katsu sando and the chickpea fries to start your meal. Reservations accepted. 1600 15th St., 303-623-0534. Dinner
ACE EAT SERVE
$$$
Uptown / Asian This Uptown restaurant and ping-pong hall features Asian-inspired cuisine and 10 ping-pong tables. Try the Sichuan shrimp wontons. Reservations accepted. 501 E. 17th Ave., 303-800-7705. Dinner, Brunch
AFRICAN GRILL & BAR
$$
Lakewood / African Explore a bevy of dishes from across Africa at this warm and inviting restaurant run by the Osei-Fordwuo family. Peanut soups, fried fish, samosas, and jollof rice are just some of the crave-worthy options you’ll order again and again. Reservations accepted. 955 S. Kipling Parkway, Lakewood, 303-985-4497. Lunch, Dinner
AMERICAN ELM
$$$
Berkeley / American Elevated American fare and classic cocktails anchor the menu at this neighborhood spot. Order the rib-eye French dip or the roasted half chicken. Reservations accepted. 4132 W. 38th Ave., 720-749-3186. Dinner, Brunch
ANGELO’S TAVERNA
$$
Speer / Italian This neighborhood nook dishes up tasty grilled oysters as well as pastas and pizzas. Try the lobster gnocchi. Also try the Littleton location. Reservations not accepted. 620 E. Sixth Ave., 303-744-3366. Lunch, Dinner
ANNETTE
$$$
Aurora / American James Beard Award–winning chef Caroline Glover’s Annette delivers a lineup of seasonal salads, pastas, wood-fired proteins, and other comforting bites in a modern, inviting space. Reservations accepted. 2501 Dallas St., Suite 108, Aurora, 720-710-9975. Dinner
ARABESQUE
$$
Boulder / Mediterranean Sip house-made chai and sample Middle Eastern delights in this charming spot. Reservations not accepted. 1634 Walnut St., Boulder, 720-242-8623. Breakfast, Lunch
“Pinche” may be a bad word in Spanish, but Pinche Pollo is, well, really effing good. In October, owners Jose Arreola and Brenda Veleta opened the fast-casual, familyoperated restaurant in Aurora, specializing in grilled chicken. Depending on your hunger level, go for a quarter or a half bird, both of which come with charred scallions and jalapeño, rice and beans, corn tortillas, pickled red onions, and two salsas (an extra-hot red and a milder green version). Wash everything down with a horchata, whose creamy texture and potent cinnamon flavor are sure signs that the drink, like everything else here, is homemade.
ATTIMO
$$
Ballpark / Italian At this urban winery, Snooze co-founder Jon Schlegel serves vino from artisans in Northern Italy with light, thoughtful fare. Reservations accepted. 2246 Larimer St., 720-287-4988. Dinner
BAMBOO SUSHI
this casual gathering spot. Reservations accepted. 2227 W. 32nd Ave., 720-668-8506. Dinner, Brunch
BIKER JIM’S GOURMET DOGS
$$$
LoHi / Sushi This Portland-born sustainable sushi spot will make you feel good about each bite of sashimi you take. Try the dashi scallop with chive oil. Reservations accepted. 2715 17th St., 303-2846600. Lunch, Dinner
BANH & BUTTER BAKERY CAFE
Aurora / French Thoa Nguyen crafts French pastries inspired by her Vietnamese heritage at this East Colfax cafe. Go for the dazzling crêpe cakes, each made with 25 to 30 layers. Reservations not accepted. 9935 E. Colfax Ave., Aurora, 720-513-9313. Breakfast, Lunch
BAR DOUGH
$
Ballpark / American This spot’s unusual menu includes rave-worthy dogs in adventurous varieties. Reservations not accepted. 2148 Larimer St., 720-746-9355. Lunch, Dinner
BISTRO LEROUX
$
$$$
LoHi / Italian Tuck into wood-fired pizzas, comforting pastas, and Italian-style cocktails at
$$$$
LoDo / French Lon Symensma’s upscale, European-inspired eatery features tableside preparations. Reservations accepted. 1510 16th Street Mall, 720-845-1673. Dinner, Brunch
BLACKBELLY
$$$
Boulder / American Chef Hosea Rosenberg’s carnivore-friendly menu focuses on charcuterie, small plates, and daily butcher specials. Try the koji-cured heritage pork chop. Also check out the Denver location, which serves breakfast and lunch and is stocked with locally made retail goods. Reservations accepted. 1606 Conestoga St., Boulder, 303-247-1000. Dinner Sarah Banks
BRUTØ
$$$$
LoDo / International Inside the Dairy Block, executive chef Byron Gomez highlights heritage grains and house ferments in an omakase-style tasting menu. Tack on the cocktail pairing to make the experience even more special. Reservations accepted. 1801 Blake St., 720-325-2195. Dinner
CATTIVELLA
$$$
Central Park / Italian Chef Elise Wiggins offers rustic, wood-fired Italian fare from a sprawling chef’s counter. Reservations accepted. 10195 E. 29th Drive, Suite 110, 303-645-3779. Dinner
CITY, O’ CITY
$$ Capitol Hill / American This meat-free zone features pizza, vegan pastries, and a full bar. Reservations not accepted. 206 E. 13th Ave., 303-831-6443. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
COCHINO TACO
$$ Englewood / Mexican The menu at this quirky taqueria features 18 different tacos and a poblano-chile-topped burger. Multiple locations. Reservations not accepted. 3495 S. Downing St., Englewood, 720-573-6174. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch
COMAL HERITAGE FOOD INCUBATOR
$ RiNo / International Immigrant and refugee women develop the skills to operate their own food businesses by serving up renditions of their family recipes at this indoor-outdoor restaurant. Try the pupusas or the plato caribe, fried fish with tostones and coleslaw. Reservations not accepted. 1950 35th St., 303-292-0770. Breakfast, Lunch
COOHILLS
$$$$
LoDo / French Enjoy the French-inspired cuisine made with local, sustainable products at this restaurant that is only a one-minute walk from Ball Arena. Reservations accepted. 1400 Wewatta St., 303-623-5700. Dinner
COZY COTTAGE BREAKFAST & LUNCH
$$ Berkeley / Breakfast The homey feel of this eatery is perfectly aligned with the menu of signature pancakes, eggs Benedict, and French toast. Reservations accepted. 4363 Tennyson St., 720-855-9800. Breakfast, Lunch
CREMA COFFEE HOUSE
RiNo / Contemporary At this hip cafe, you’ll find beans from the country’s top roasters and an all-day menu that offers flavorful picks, like beet salad and pork belly banh mi. Reservations not accepted. 2862 Larimer St. Breakfast, Lunch
D BAR
Uptown / Contemporary Owners and chefs Keegan Gerhard and Lisa Bailey produce exquisite desserts and modern comfort food. Bonus: Check out the grab-and-go coffee and pastries. Reservations accepted. 494 E. 19th Ave., 303-861-4710. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch
DAUGHTER THAI KITCHEN & BAR
$
$$$
$$$
LoHi / Thai This date-night-ready Thai restaurant from Ounjit Hardacre serves beautifully plated dishes and inventive cocktails with an elegant ambience to match. The menu features tried-and-true favorites alongside rarer-inDenver specialties . Reservations accepted. 1700 Platte St., Suite 140, 720-667-4652. Lunch, Dinner
DEATH & CO DENVER
$$$
RiNo / Contemporary The famed New York City bar offers top-notch cocktail service and an inventive menu in the lobby of the Ramble Hotel. Reservations not accepted. 1280 25th St., 720-330-2660. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
DENVER CENTRAL MARKET
RiNo / International Dining options at this marketplace range from ceviche to ice cream. Take your pick from Crema Bodega, Vero Italian, Curio, High Point Creamery, and more. 2669 Larimer St. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch
DENVER MILK MARKET
LoDo / International Bonanno Concepts’ 16-venue collection of bars and restaurants features everything from fresh pasta to poke bowls to crab cakes. 1800 Wazee St., 303-7928242. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch
DEW DROP INN
$$
$$
DOS SANTOS
$$
City Park West / Mexican The menu at this modern taqueria features light, seafood-centric dishes, like a beer-battered fish taco. Reservations not accepted. 1475 E. 17th Ave., 303-386-3509. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch
EDGE RESTAURANT & BAR
$$$$
Downtown / Steak House Inside the Four Seasons Hotel Denver, this restaurant serves contemporary steak house fare by chef Craig Dryhurst. Reservations accepted. 1111 14th St., 303-3893050. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch
EDGEWATER INN
$$
Uptown / Contemporary Uptown’s chic neighborhood watering hole serves not only fine cocktails but also thoughtful small bites such as the Big Bowl of Mussels. Reservations not accepted. 1033 E. 17th Ave., 720-612-4160. Dinner
DIMESTORE DELIBAR
$$
LoHi / American This restaurant, bar, convenience store, and market serves elevated deli fare in an eclectic setting. Try the rolled focaccia sandwiches. Reservations accepted. 1575 Boulder St., Suite A, 303-537-5323. Lunch, Dinner
$$
Edgewater / Pizza This pizzeria has been family owned and operated for more than 60 years. Try the Howdy Pizza, a combo of sausage, peppers, mushrooms, and jalapeños. Reservations not accepted. 5302 W. 25th Ave., Edgewater, 303-2373524. Lunch, Dinner
EL FIVE
$$$
LoHi / Mediterranean Justin Cucci’s fifth Edible Beats concept boasts panoramic views, a menu of creative tapas, and Spanish-style gin and tonics. Reservations accepted. 2930 Umatilla St., 303-524-9193. Dinner
EL NOA NOA MEXICAN RESTAURANT
Lincoln Park / Mexican This restaurant serves authentic Mexican food with top-notch margaritas. Reservations accepted. 722 Santa Fe Drive, 303-623-9968. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
$$
EL TACO DE MEXICO
Lincoln Park / Mexican This Denver favorite serves Mexican food with an emphasis on authenticity. Try the chile relleno burrito. Reservations not accepted. 714 Santa Fe Drive, 303-623-3926. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
ELLYNGTON’S
$
$$$
Downtown / American Located in the Brown Palace Hotel, this is the home of Denver’s power meal. Indulge in the lavish brunch on Sundays. Reservations accepted. 321 17th St., 303-312-5924. Breakfast, Brunch
ELWAY’S
$$$$
Downtown / Steak House This sleek restaurant named after the Broncos great serves classic steak house fare in upscale environs. Multiple locations. Reservations accepted. 1881 Curtis St., 303-312-3107. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch
FAMOUS ORIGINAL J’S PIZZA
Five Points / Pizza Joshua Pollack’s New York–style and rectangular “grandma” pies are totally customizable and available by the slice. Try the meat lovers. Reservations not accepted. 715 E. 26th Ave., 720-420-9102. Lunch, Dinner
FARMHOUSE THAI EATERY
$$
$$
Lakewood / Thai This cozy spot offers flavorful specialties from multiple regions, including papaya pok pok and khao kha moo. Reservations not accepted. 98 Wadsworth Blvd., Suite 117, Lakewood, 303-237-2475. Lunch, Dinner
Community Banks of Colorado is proud to support Colorado Adventure Center, a family-owned and operated business committed to “Sparking the Adventure” in every visitor. At Community Banks of Colorado, we know the importance of investing in the local business community – it’s not just about being part of the community, it’s about being a part of its progress. That is common sense, the way banking was intended to be. Visit cobnks.com/stories or call us at 720.665.9778 to learn more.
FINN’S MANOR
RiNo / Pub The indoor bar serves a wide selection of cocktails, while food trucks offer a diverse variety of bites, from fried chicken sandwiches to Puerto Rican fare. Reservations not accepted. 2927 Larimer St. Dinner
FIRE RESTAURANT
$
FOX AND THE HEN
$$$$
Golden Triangle / American Located inside the Art, a Hotel, Fire Restaurant serves contemporary American dishes made with locally sourced ingredients, including a roasted half chicken. Reservations accepted. 1201 Broadway, 720-7094431. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
$$
LoHi / American This sunny brunch eatery brightens up any morning. The animal-style hash brown smothered in American cheese and special sauce (an homage to In-N-Out) is a must-order. Reservations not accepted. 2257 W. 32nd Ave., 303-862-6795. Breakfast, Lunch, Brunch
FRANK & ROZE
Hale / Cafe This stylish cafe serves sustainably sourced coffee from South America, Africa, Asia, and beyond. Try the breakfast sandwiches. Reservations not accepted. 4097 E. Ninth Ave., 720-328-2960. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
$
FRASCA FOOD AND WINE
$$$$
Boulder / Italian The elegant cuisine always wows at Frasca, an ode to the cuisine of Friuli-Venezia Giulia in northeastern Italy from master sommelier Bobby Stuckey and chef Lachlan MackinnonPatterson. Splurge on executive chef Ian Palazzola’s nine-course Friulano menu. Reservations accepted. 1738 Pearl St., Boulder, 303-442-6966. Dinner
GAETANO’S
$$$
LoHi / Italian This comfy neighborhood hangout features old-school favorites, such as chicken Parmesan. Reservations accepted. 3760 Tejon St., 303-455-9852. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch
GLADYS
Edgewater / American Vegetable small plates feature at this concept inside Edgewater Public Market. Reservations not accepted. 5505 W. 20th Ave., Suite 116, Edgewater, 303-276-3309. Lunch, Dinner
GLO NOODLE HOUSE
$
$$ West Highland / Asian B lackbelly’s Chris Teigland and Ariana Pope bring Asian fusion fare to West Highland with Glo Noodle House. Don’t miss the spicy tuna served on a crispy rice cake. Reservations accepted. 4450 W. 38th Ave., Suite 130, 303-993-4180. Dinner
GOLD POINT
$ RiNo / American This hip hangout serves craft cocktails and a variety of small and large bites from Caddywampus Comfort Foods. Reservations not accepted. 3126 Larimer St., 720-445-9691. Dinner
G-QUE BBQ
$$
Westminster / Barbecue This fast-casual joint serves award-winning hickory-smoked pork, brisket, chicken wings, ribs, and more. Multiple locations. Reservations not accepted. 5160 W. 120th Ave., Suite K, Westminster, 303-379-9205. Lunch, Dinner
GUARD AND GRACE
$$$$ Downtown / Steak House Chef Troy Guard’s modern steak house offers a chic setting for its elevated fare. Try the flight of filet mignon. Reservations accepted. 1801 California St., 303-293-8500. Lunch, Dinner
GYU-KAKU JAPANESE BBQ
$$$ LoDo / Japanese This Japanese-based chain boasts table-centered grills on which diners cook proteins like Harami skirt steak. There are also noodles and rice dishes. Reservations accepted. 1998 18th St., 720-726-4068. Lunch, Dinner
HASU SUSHI & GRILL
$$$
Cherry Creek / Asian Try the aptly named Amazing Roll: chopped fatty tuna, cucumber, and scallion on the inside; avocado, crispy kani, eel, and special sauce on the outside. Reservations accepted. 250 Steele St., Suite 104, 303-722-9968. Lunch, Dinner
HIGHLAND’S INDIAN CUISINE
$$$
Highlands Ranch / Indian Enjoy upscale curries, biryani, and tandoori selections at the first Indian restaurant in Highlands Ranch. Reservations not accepted. 9344 Dorchester St., Suite 101, Highlands Ranch, 720-420-9374. Lunch, Dinner
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HIRA CAFE & PATISSERIE
$ Aurora / Ethiopian Pastry chef and owner Hiwot Solomon pairs her from-scratch desserts and Ethiopian breakfast plates with house-roasted, single-origin coffee at this cheery cafe. Reservations not accepted. 10782 E. Iliff Ave., Aurora, 720-949-1703. Breakfast, Lunch
HONEY ELIXIR
$$ RiNo / Contemporary Nonalcoholic potions, boozy cocktails, sipping chocolate, and teas‚ along with a menu of light bites, are the draw at this stunning bar. Reservations not accepted. 2636 Walnut St., Suite 104, 720-328-5992. Dinner
HOP ALLEY
RiNo / Chinese From Tommy Lee of Uncle, this neighborhood hangout serves dishes rooted in Chinese tradition with a touch of distinctive flair. Reservations accepted. 3500 Larimer St., 720-379-8340. Dinner
HOPS & PIE
$$
$$
Berkeley / Pizza Craft pizza and local brews are this spot’s forte. Load up your pie with toppings, and wash it all down with a choice of more than 20 beers. Reservations not accepted. 3920 Tennyson St., 303-477-7000. Lunch, Dinner
HUDSON HILL
$$
Capitol Hill / American Head to this upscale yet casual bar for craft cocktails like the pineapple daiquiri. Enjoy your drink with a cheese plate or pickled okra. Reservations not accepted. 619 E. 13th St., 303-832-0776. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
INDIA’S RESTAURANT
$$ Hampden / Indian This spot serves traditional fare, including flavorful dishes like tandoori chicken. Take advantage of the lunch buffet. Reservations accepted. 8921 E. Hampden Ave., 303-755-4284. Lunch, Dinner
ISTANBUL CAFE & BAKERY
$ Washington Virginia Vale / Middle Eastern Inside the shopping center at the intersection of South Monaco Parkway and Leetsdale Drive, friendly owner Ismet Yilmaz prepares authentic Turkish pastries. Multiple locations. Reservations not accepted. 850 S. Monaco Parkway, Suite 9, 720-787-7751. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
IZAKAYA DEN
$$$ Platt Park / Japanese Ultra-fresh sushi, sashimi, and creative small plates are on the menu at this local favorite. Reservations accepted. 1487-A S. Pearl St., 303-777-0691. Dinner
J’S NOODLES STAR THAI 2
$ Westwood / Thai This traditional Thai spot has developed a cult following over the years. The tom yum soup, drunken noodles, and pad thai are regulars’ picks. Reservations not accepted. 945 S. Federal Blvd., 303-922-5495. Lunch, Dinner
JAX FISH HOUSE & OYSTER BAR
$$$ LoDo / Seafood Enjoy sustainable seafood in an upbeat atmosphere. Specialties include the raw oyster bar and seasonally composed plates. Multiple locations. Reservations accepted. 1539 17th St., 303-292-5767. Dinner
JERUSALEM RESTAURANT
$$
University / Middle Eastern You can’t beat this spot’s tasty, affordable, and traditional Middle Eastern fare, including gyros, baba ghanoush, and sambusas. Reservations accepted. 1890 E. Evans Ave., 303-777-8828. Lunch, Dinner
JOVANINA’S BROKEN ITALIAN
$$$$
LoDo / Italian This gorgeous LoDo eatery expands on traditional Italian fare by incorporating unexpected, seasonal ingredients. Reservations accepted. 1520 Blake St., 720-541-7721. Dinner
KACHINA CANTINA
$$$
LoDo / Southwestern Located in the Dairy Block, this spot specializes in Southwestern fare, such as pozole. Reservations accepted. 1890 Wazee St., 720-460-2728. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch
KAHLO’S MEXICAN RESTAURANT
Westwood / Mexican Enjoy plates of mole and enchiladas verdes, as well as a menu of almost 30 different juices and smoothies, in a space decorated with the art of Frida Kahlo. Reservations accepted. 3735 Morrison Road, 303-936-0758. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
KAOS PIZZERIA
$$
KARMA ASIAN CUISINE
Speer / Asian Go out to this trendy eatery for a variety of Asian tapas (such as spicy edamame or calamari salad). Reservations not accepted. 22 S. Broadway, 303-871-0167. Lunch, Dinner
KATSU RAMEN
$$
LA DIABLA POZOLE Y MEZCAL
$
$$
Aurora / Japanese Satisfy your cravings with one of the traditional styles offered at this cozy spot. Get the most out of your dollar with a combo meal. Reservations not accepted. 1930 S. Havana St., Aurora, 303-751-2222. Lunch, Dinner
THE KITCHEN AMERICAN BISTRO
$$$
LoDo / American Seasonally inspired classics, an excellent drinks menu, and warm hospitality are the draw. Also try the Boulder location. Reservations accepted. 1560 Wazee St., 303-623-3127. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch
KOBE AN
$$
Platt Park / Pizza A wood-fired oven, gourmet ingredients, and wine to-go make this a perfect pizzeria for dine-in or delivery. If the weather’s nice, eat outside in the spacious garden area. Reservations accepted. 1439 S. Pearl St, 303-7335267. Lunch, Dinner
Ballpark / Mexican This lively eatery from James Beard Award finalist Jose Avila serves up comforting pozole and other traditional Mexican fare at affordable prices. Don’t miss the weekend brunch for chilaquiles, huaraches, and a killer house michelada. Reservations not accepted. 2233 Larimer St., 720-519-1060. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch
LA FORÊT
$$$$
Speer / French Transport yourself to the forest at this cocktail-centric French restaurant decorated with floor-to-ceiling aspen trunks. Head in during pastis hour to sample the anise-flavored apéritif with small plates, or dine on dishes like stag au poivre or rabbit vadouvan. Reservations not accepted. 38 S. Broadway, 303-351-7938. Dinner
LE FRENCH
$$$
Cherry Creek / Asian Everything is traditional at this Japanese restaurant, including the seating. The menu features tempura, gyoza, and yakisoba. Reservations accepted. 231 Milwaukee St., 303-989-5907. Dinner
LA CHIVA
$$
Hampden / French This chic Belleview Station bistro, owned by French-Senegalese sisters, transports diners through Parisian cuisine with African influences. Also try the Hale location. Reservations accepted. 4901 S. Newport St., 720-710-8963. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch
$$
Platt Park / Colombian This brick-and-mortar spawned from a popular food truck gives Denverites a cozy, colorful place to enjoy the cuisine of chef-owner Jorge Aguirre’s native Colombia. Try the sancocho. Reservations accepted. 1446 S. Broadway, 720-389-9847. Lunch, Dinner
LEVEN DELI CO.
$$ Golden Triangle / Deli Classic deli meets California cool at this bright spot. Get a taste of the house-made pastrami on the Reuben sandwich or go for the crisp chop salad. Reservations not accepted. 123 W. 12th Ave., 303-325-5691. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
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LOGAN STREET RESTAURANT & BAR
$$$
Speer / Mediterranean From the owners behind Carboy Winery, Logan Street serves woodfired fare, fresh pastas, and flatbreads that pair well with the house-made vino. Stop by the wine bar and tasting room next door. Reservations accepted. 400 E. Seventh Ave., 720-617-9400. Dinner
LOWRY BEER GARDEN
$
Lowry Field / American This traditional Germanstyle beer garden celebrates Colorado breweries with 16 draft lines (almost all of which serve local beer). Try the burgers or bratwurst with house-cut french fries. Reservations not accepted. 7577 E. Academy Blvd., 303-366-0114. Lunch, Dinner
LUCINA EATERY & BAR
$$$
South Park Hill / Latin American Bold flavors from Latin America, the Caribbean, and coastal Spain tantalize at this lively restaurant. Try the mofongo, a plantain mash with pork belly chicharrón, or the two-person paella with rotating toppings only served on Fridays and Saturdays. Reservations accepted. 2245 Kearney St., Suite 101, 720-814-1053. Dinner
MAJOR TOM
$$$$
RiNo / American This lounge from the team behind Beckon offers a Champagne-centric drink menu and a delectable lineup of shareable bites. Throw back some oysters on the beautiful patio space. Reservations accepted. 2845 Larimer St., 303-848-9777. Dinner, Brunch
MANGO HOUSE
Aurora / International This immigrant- and refugee-led food hall is home to six outstanding culinary concepts, including Urban Burma, Jasmine Syrian Food, and Nepali Spice. 10180 E. Colfax Ave., Aurora, 303-900-8639. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
MARIGOLD
$$
MEHAK INDIA’S AROMA
$$$
Cherry Creek / Indian There’s not a buffet in sight at this upscale Indian restaurant, where everything from chicken korma to lamb vindaloo is on the menu. Reservations accepted. 250 Steele St., Suite 100, 720-638-9350. Lunch, Dinner
MERCANTILE DINING & PROVISION
$$$
Lyons / European This small, light-filled restaurant serves seasonally driven French- and Italian-influenced fare. The pink-peppercornlaced farinata (chickpea pancake) is a delicious mainstay of the frequently changing menu; the amaro-centric cocktail program is also delightful. Reservations accepted. 405 Main St., Suite B, Lyons, 303-823-2333. Dinner
MASON’S DUMPLING SHOP
Aurora / Chinese A menu of house-made steamed, boiled, and pan-fried dumplings complements a selection of noodle and rice bowls and vegetable-forward sides at this Los Angeles–born spot. Reservations not accepted. 9655 E. Montview Blvd., 303-6008998. Lunch, Dinner
MATSUHISA
$$$
LoDo / American Chef Alex Seidel offers upscale, contemporary farm-to-table fare, including pasta dishes and family-style shared plates. Reservations accepted. 1701 Wynkoop St., Suite 155, 720-460-3733. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch
MOXIE EATERY
$$
$
Speer / International Taste local Colorado ingredients in the lamb sandwich or chicken ramen at this globally inspired eatery. Reservations not accepted. 70 Broadway, Suite 150, 303-524-9236. Breakfast, Lunch
MY BROTHER’S BAR
LoHi / Pub Enjoy beers and burgers with classical music in one of Denver’s oldest bars. Order the JCB burger with jalapeño cream cheese. Reservations not accepted. 2376 15th St., 303-455-9991. Lunch, Dinner
$
$$$$
Cherry Creek / Japanese Legendary chef Nobu Matsuhisa kicks Japanese staples up to the next level. Start with signature uni shooters and don’t miss the black cod with sweet miso. Reservations accepted. 98 Steele St., 303-329-6628. Dinner
NARRATIVE
$$$$
Cherry Creek / American Chef Paul Nagan serves gussied-up versions of American favorites‚ such as shrimp and grits with Tabasco butter‚ at this sleek eatery. Reservations accepted. 222 Milwaukee St., 720-571-8080. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
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NEST CAFE & BAR
$$
West Highland / Health This counter-service eatery inside Nurture marketplace offers a menu of smoothies, coffee, salads, tartines, dosas, and other wholesome fare. Reservations not accepted. 2949 Federal Blvd., 303-390-1252. Breakfast, Lunch, Brunch
NI TUYO
$$$
Belcaro / Mexican Visit this Bonnie Brae eatery for bubbly molcajetes, piping-hot stone bowls of Mexican meats and veggies stewed in chile sauce. Or grab a seat at the bar for a tasty margarita with an order of chips and salsa. Reservations not accepted. 730 S. University Blvd., 303-2828896. Dinner
NOBLE RIOT
$$$
RiNo / American Find charcuterie boards, fried chicken, and other bites at this sommelieroperated natural wine bar. Reservations accepted. 1336 27th St., 303-993-5330. Dinner
NOISETTE RESTAURANT & BAKERY
$$$
LoHi / French Chefs Tim and Lillian Lu serve elegant renditions of bourgeoisie-style specialties (French home-cooked comforts) in a romantic, light-drenched space. Tear into the perfectly crisp baguette to set the Parisian scene for your dining experience. Reservations accepted. 3254 Navajo St., Suite 100, 720-769-8103. Dinner, Brunch
NOLA VOODOO TAVERN AND PERKS
$$ Clayton / Southern New Orleans native and owner Henry Batiste serves his grandmother’s recipes for gumbo, po’ boys, and much more at this Louisiana-inspired spot. Reservations accepted. 3321 Bruce Randolph Ave., 720-3899544. Lunch, Dinner
OAK AT FOURTEENTH
$$$$
Boulder / Seasonal This bright space just off the Pearl Street Mall offers a diverse, ever-changing menu of seasonal, oak-fired eats. Order the kale salad, roasted ocean trout, or a handmade pasta. Reservations accepted. 1400 Pearl St., Boulder, 303-444-3622. Dinner
OFFICERS CLUB
$$$
Lowry Field / American Try American staples like cheddar biscuits, French dips, and bacon burgers at this spot inspired by the Lowry Air Force Base. Reservations accepted. 84 Rampart Way, 303-284-0714. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch
OHANA ISLAND KITCHEN
$ LoHi / Seafood This Hawaiian-inspired eatery serves top-notch tuna poke, Spam musubi, and more. Reservations not accepted. 2563 15th St., 303-718-6580. Lunch, Dinner
OLIVE & FINCH
$$ City Park West / American Discover wholesome, inspired meals at this restaurant, bakery, and juice bar, where you’ll find a full coffee bar, artisan sandwiches, hearty soups, tasty salads, and daily house-made pastries. Also try the Cherry Creek location. Reservations not accepted. 1552 E. 17th Ave., 303-832-8663. Breakfast, Lunch
ONEFOLD
$$ City Park West / Contemporary This eatery does early-day dining justice. Pair the bacon fried rice
with house-made bone broth, Vietnamese iced coffee, or a local IPA. Reservations not accepted. 1420 E. 18th Ave., 303-954-0877. Breakfast, Lunch
OSAKA RAMEN
$$
RiNo / Japanese Jeff Osaka’s modern ramen shop features original noodle soups, bento boxes, and creative small plates. Try the mochi doughnuts. Reservations not accepted. 2611 Walnut St., 303-955-7938. Lunch, Dinner
OSAKA’S
$$ Boulder / Japanese Try one of the signature Osaka Burgers, which sub a savory Japanese pancake (okonomiyaki) for the traditional bun, at this Boulder restaurant. Reservations accepted. 2460 Canyon Blvd., Boulder, 720-398-9115. Dinner
PALENQUE COCINA Y AGAVERIA
$$
Littleton / Mexican Sip on a wide variety of mezcals and snack on ceviche and flautitas at this neighborhood favorite bar and restaurant. Reservations accepted. 2609 W. Main St., Littleton, 720-928-3318. Lunch, Dinner
PARK & CO
Uptown / American This casual tavern serves sandwiches and salads but specializes in gourmet burgers. Try the Hatch burger. Reservations not accepted. 439 E. 17th Ave., 720-328-6732. Lunch, Dinner
PETE’S KITCHEN
$
$ Cheesman Park / American A Denver staple for late-night food, Pete’s is known for its breakfasts but serves burgers, gyros, and souvlaki sandwiches all day. Reservations not accepted. 1962 E. Colfax Ave., 303-321-3139. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
PHO 95
$$ Mar Lee / Vietnamese Authentic Vietnamese cuisine is served up every day at this noodle house. Try your pho in any of the 22 different ways that are offered. Also try the Centennial location. Reservations not accepted. 1401 S. Federal Blvd., 303-936-3322. Lunch, Dinner
PINCHE POLLO
$ Aurora / Mexican Grilled chicken reigns supreme at this casual Mexican joint. Order it in a burrito or tacos, over fries, or, our personal favorite, plain as a plate with tortillas, rice and beans, charred scallions, and other acompañamientos. Reservations not accepted. 12158 E. Mississippi Ave., Aurora, 303-993-5649. Lunch, Dinner
PIZZERIA LUI
$$ Lakewood / Pizza Delicious, seasonal pies are baked to order in a Gianni Acunto Napoli oven imported from Naples, Italy. Try the street taco pizza, which is topped with house-made chorizo, corn, cotija cheese, tomatillo salsa, mozarella, and cilantro. Reservations not accepted. 5380 W. Mississippi Ave., Lakewood, 303-922-3202. Dinner
POTAGER
Capitol Hill / Contemporary Since 1997, this rustic Capitol Hill restaurant has specialized in fresh, seasonally driven food. The menu replete with small- and large-format plates changes once a month. Dine in the back garden. Reservations accepted. 1109 N. Ogden St., 303-246-7073. Dinner
$$$
Q HOUSE
$$
City Park / Chinese Enjoy a modern take on Chinese cuisine at this City Park eatery operated by chef Christopher Lin, an alum of Momofuku in New York City. Try the braised pork rice served with pickled mustard greens and braising jus. Reservations accepted. 3421 E. Colfax Ave., 720-729-8887. Dinner
QUALITY ITALIAN
$$$$
Cherry Creek / Steak House This upscale spot in Cherry Creek serves a smart mix of steak house fare and American-Italian favorites in warm, contemporary environs. Reservations accepted. 241 Columbine St., 303-532-8888. Dinner, Brunch
QUE BUENO SUERTE!
$$$
Platt Park / Mexican The menu at this vibrant restaurant offers familiar items like tacos and fajitas as well as upscale, regionally inspired Mexican fare. Try the molcajete on Friday and Saturday. Reservations accepted. 1518 S. Pearl St., 720-6427322. Dinner, Brunch
QUIERO AREPAS
Platt Park / Latin American The entirely glutenfree menu at this Platt Park eatery offers delicious selections like the pollo guisado arepa, a flatbread that comes stuffed with shredded chicken, black beans, and cheese. Also check out the LoHi location. Reservations not accepted. 1859 S. Pearl St., 720-432-4205. Lunch, Dinner
$
RANDALL’S
$$
Cole / Southern This restaurant in the Cole neighborhood serves up comforting Southernand Cajun-inspired fare with a side of warm hospitality. We suggest going for homey offerings like the fried catfish dinner. Reservations not accepted. 3349 York St., 720-583-0473. Lunch, Dinner
RECESS BEER GARDEN
$$
LoHi / American This spot offers an oasis to sample 25 local and international cold brews on tap. Between beers, nibble on the pork torta or tuck into a hearty burger. Reservations not accepted. 2715 17th St., 720-638-0020. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch
RESTAURANT OLIVIA
$$$$
Washington Park / Italian This cozy yet modern neighborhood spot from the team behind Bistro Georgette specializes in fresh pastas and Italian classics like porchetta. The ravioli and other stuffed pastas are must-orders. Reservations accepted. 290 S. Downing St., 303-999-0395. Dinner
REYNARD SOCIAL
$$
LoDo / American Classic cocktails and upscale bites are the draw at the Reynard Social, located in the Thompson Hotel downtown. Try the earthy, umami-forward wild mushroom fondue with slices of grilled bread and assorted citrusmarinated olives. Reservations accepted. 1616 Market St., 303-572-1321. Dinner
RIO GRANDE MEXICAN RESTAURANT
LoDo / Mexican Natural ingredients, fresh produce, and unique flavors characterize this Mexican spot. Enjoy the famous margaritas, but be careful, the staff will cut you off after three. Multiple locations. Reservations accepted. 1745 Wazee St., 303-623-5432. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch
RIOJA
$$$
$$$$
LoDo / Mediterranean James Beard Award–winning chef Jennifer Jasinski creates high-end Mediterranean-influenced cuisine at this eatery. Also try her lunchtime takeout pop-up, Flavor Dojo, which offers healthforward bowls. Reservations accepted. 1431 Larimer St., 303-820-2282. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch
ROAMING BUFFALO BAR-B-QUE
Rosedale / Barbecue House-smoked Colorado craft barbecue is the specialty at this laid-back spot. Innovative meats like bison back ribs and pulled Colorado lamb are available by the pound. Reservations not accepted. 2387 S. Downing St., 303-722-2226. Lunch, Dinner
SAFTA
$$
$$$$
RiNo / Mediterranean At Safta, acclaimed chef Alon Shaya and his team serve modern Israeli fare. Crave-worthy specialties include hummus, labneh, and other dips accompanied by wood-oven pita and crispy Persian rice with cherries and sunflower seeds. Reservations accepted. 3330 Brighton Blvd., Suite 201, 720-408-2444. Dinner, Brunch
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SAP SUA
$$$
Congress Park / Vietnamese This smart eatery from husband-and-wife duo Ni and Anna Nguyen finds its culinary footing in Vietnamese flavors. Herbaceous offerings like chrysanthemum green salad and culantro-capped tomato toast are favorites of the menu, as are seafood plates like the hamachi collar with a coconut caramel glaze. Reservations accepted. 2550 E. Colfax Ave., 303-736-2303. Dinner
SOMEBODY PEOPLE
$$$
Overland / Mediterranean At this vegan restaurant, Sam and Tricia Maher and executive chef Justin Freeman finesse seasonal bounty into hearty, Mediterranean-influenced fare. Visit during Sunday Supper for an affordable multicourse experience. Reservations accepted. 1165 S. Broadway, 720-502-5681. Dinner
SPUNTINO
$$$$
Highland / Italian Enjoy the eclectic and locally sourced menu at this Italian-inspired, husbandand-wife-owned spot. Go for any of the dishes with Southern Indian influences—a product of chef Cindhura Reddy’s heritage—like malai kofta gnocchi. Don’t miss the house-made gelatos for dessert. Reservations accepted. 2639 W. 32nd Ave., 303-433-0949. Dinner
STEUBEN’S
Uptown / American With food like homemade mac and cheese and fried chicken, plus retro booths, this restaurant makes the 1950s feel right around the corner. Don’t forget to grab dessert before you leave. Reservations accepted. 523 E. 17th Ave., 303-830-1001. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch
STONE CELLAR BISTRO
$$
TEOCALLI COCINA $$ Arvada / Mexican This industrial-meets-tropical Mexican restaurant offers elevated entrées like charred beef short rib with grilled bone marrow, pork shank pibil, and hamachi ceviche. Also try the Lafayette location. Reservations accepted. 5770 Olde Wadsworth Blvd., Arvada, 303-923-3170. Lunch, Dinner
TESSA DELICATESSEN
$ Montclair / Deli This modern all-day eatery from Vince Howard, formerly of Del Rey Deli in Los Angeles, serves hot and cold sandwiches and salads to the Montclair neighborhood. Reservations not accepted. 5724 E. Colfax Ave., 720-746-9138. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
THAI POT CAFE
$ Virginia Village / Asian Try a variety of curries, noodle bowls, soups, salads, and coconutinfused desserts at this cozy Thai restaurant. Reservations not accepted. 1350 S. Colorado Blvd., Suite 191, 303-639-6200. Lunch, Dinner
TOCABE, AN AMERICAN INDIAN EATERY
$ Berkeley / American Feast on Indigenous fare such as fry bread tacos made with ingredients sourced from Native producers at this fast-casual spot. The company also has an online marketplace and donates prepared meals to tribal communities in need. Reservations not accepted. 3536 W. 44th Ave., 720-524-8282. Lunch, Dinner
TOFU STORY
$$$
Arvada / Contemporary Visit this farm-to-table spot in Olde Town Arvada for beautifully presented dishes made with local produce by chefs Jordan Alley and Brandon Kerr. Don’t miss the foie gras parfait or the hot honey fried chicken. Reservations accepted. 7605 Grandview Ave., Arvada, 720-630-7908. Dinner
SUNDAY VINYL
LoDo / European This Union Station restaurant offers warm hospitality, exquisite cuisine, and an extensive wine list, all to the soundtrack of a vinyl-only playlist. Don’t miss the pommes frites or the indulgent selection of sweet treats. Reservations accepted. 1803 16th St., 720-738-1803. Dinner
TAMAYO
$$$
$$ Aurora / Korean House-made tofu is the main draw at this airy Korean eatery from chefrestaurateur J.W. Lee. Order the spicy seafood soondubu stew featuring silken tofu with the individual-size, pressure-cooked rice. Reservations not accepted. 2060 S. Havana St., Aurora, 303-954-9372. Lunch, Dinner
UCHI DENVER
$$$$
Curtis Park / Japanese This bustling eatery from James Beard Award–winning chef Tyson Cole delivers artful and inventive Japanese small plates and sushi made with some of the freshest fish in town. Visit for the daily happy hour. Reservations accepted. 2500 Lawrence St., 303-444-1922. Dinner
ULTREIA
$$$
LoDo / Mexican This spot’s modern menu is derived from the flavors and ingredients of chef-owner Richard Sandoval’s native Mexico. Check out the rooftop lounge and the selection of more than 100 tequilas. Reservations accepted. 1400 Larimer St., 720-946-1433. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch
TEALEE’S TEAHOUSE AND BOOKSTORE
Five Points / International Head to this charming teahouse-bookstore-market for loose-leaf and specialty teas and all-day fare like soups, salads, sandwiches, and freshly baked pastries. Reservations accepted. 611 22nd St., 303-5932013. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
$$
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LoDo / Spanish James Beard Award–winning chef Jennifer Jasinski brings Iberian fare to Union Station. Try the cured trout. Reservations accepted. 1701 Wynkoop St., Suite 125, 303-5341970. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch
UNCLE
$$
Speer / Asian This reliable Pan Asian noodle house from chef-owner Tommy Lee has a revolving menu of steamed buns, small plates, rice and curry bowls, and ramen. Also try the Highland location. Reservations not accepted. 95 S. Pennsylvania St., 720-638-1859. Dinner
URBAN VILLAGE GRILL
$$$
Lone Tree / Indian This eatery serves classic and contemporary dishes from regions across India. Order the chef’s tasting menu, a multicourse feast featuring Urban cauliflower, butter chicken, and other popular dishes. Reservations accepted. 8505 Park Meadows Center Drive, Suite 2184A, Lone Tree, 720-536-8565. Lunch, Dinner
VITAL ROOT
$$
Berkeley / American Justin Cucci’s fourth eatery focuses on quick, healthy food. Grab a seat in the airy space and nosh on creative, wholesome fare such as cashew “queso” dip or a sunflower risotto. Reservations not accepted. 3915 Tennyson St., 303-474-4131. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch
VOGHERA RISTORANTE & APERICENA
$$$
Berkeley / Italian Enjoy Italian-style tapas such as beef tartare, Burrata, and pancetta-wrapped scallops at this rustic-chic Berkeley outpost. Reservations not accepted. 3963 Tennyson St., 303-455-9111. Dinner, Brunch
WATERCOURSE FOODS
$$
Uptown / American This vegetarian icon has been serving wholesome food since 1998. The zesty soups, salads, and wraps are healthy and delicious. Reservations accepted. 837 E. 17th Ave., 303-8327313. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch
WEATHERVANE CAFE
City Park West / American Enjoy a small but sumptuous menu of breakfast items, sandwiches, and salads at this cozy Uptown cafe. Reservations not accepted. 1725 E. 17th Ave. Breakfast, Lunch
WELLNESS SUSHI
$
WHITTIER CAFE
Whittier / Cafe This espresso bar, which supports social-justice-related causes, serves coffee, beer, and wine sourced from various African nations and a small menu of pastries, breakfast burritos, panini, and more. Reservations not accepted. 1710 E. 25th Ave., 720-550-7440. Breakfast, Lunch
WILD TACO
Capitol Hill / Mexican Casual, modern Mexicaninspired bites from chef Javier Sanchez (formerly of Tamayo and Osaka Ramen) are the draw at Capitol Hill’s Wild Taco. Reservations not accepted. 215 E. Seventh Ave., 303-856-7145. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch
WORK & CLASS
$
YAHYA’S MEDITERRANEAN GRILL & PASTRIES
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City Park West / Mediterranean This family-run restaurant serves silky hummus, a variety of excellent grilled kebabs, and from-scratch sweets. Try the beef koobideh. Reservations accepted. 2207 E. Colfax Ave., 720-532-8746. Lunch, Dinner
YAZOO BARBEQUE COMPANY
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RiNo / American This elevated meat-and-three concept from chef Dana Rodriguez offers a delicious hybrid of American and Latin cuisine in raucous, repurposed-shipping-container digs. Our picks: the rotisserie chicken, chickpea croquettes, and the roasted Colorado lamb. Reservations not accepted. 2500 Larimer St., 303-292-0700. Dinner
XICAMITI LA TAQUERÍA
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Congress Park / Japanese Vegan sushi stars at this fast-casual joint by husband-and-wife duo Steven and Phoebe Lee. Don’t miss hot options like the soupless ramen. Reservations not accepted. 2504 E. Colfax Ave., 720-306-4989. Lunch, Dinner
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Golden / Mexican This long-standing joint serves cooked-to-order burritos, tacos, quesadillas, and alambres (skillet dishes) made with recipes drawing from Walter Meza’s childhood in Mexico. Reservations not accepted. 715 Washington Ave., Golden, 303-215-3436. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
$ Five Points / Barbecue This unpretentious counter-service barbecue joint offers a Deep South menu, featuring slow-smoked pork ribs and brisket. Dig in at the outdoor picnic tables. Reservations not accepted. 2150 Broadway, 303-296-3334. Lunch, Dinner
ZEPPELIN STATION
$$ RiNo / International This industrial-chic food hall in RiNo is home to seven globally inspired food and drink vendors, including Procession Coffee, Purisma, and Gyros King. 3501 Wazee St., 720-862-0008. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch
ZORBA’S
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Congress Park / Greek Zorba’s has served American and Greek fare—burgers, salads, sandwiches, and classic breakfast dishes—in Congress Park since 1979. Reservations not accepted. 2626 E. 12th Ave., 303-321-0091. Breakfast, Dinner, Lunch
These listings are in no way related to advertising in 5280. If you find that a restaurant differs significantly from the information in its listing or your favorite restaurant is missing from the Dining Guide, please let us know. Write us at 5280 Publishing, Inc., 1675 Larimer St., Suite 675, Denver, CO 80202 or dining@5280.com.
maintenance work is often a form of invisible labor. The work is underappreciated and thus undervalued, undercompensated, and often performed by marginalized groups.
Today, the tunnels are fully staffed for the first time since at least 2018. “I was only running three people a shift for a while,” Fox says. “We were really close to where I had to put the ‘Closed’ sign up.” It was by convincing his superiors that the tunnels needed more maintainers lest all the repairs and upgrades they’ve funded “fall back into the hole as soon as they’re done” that Fox was able to start filling out his ranks. Now, he has enough employees to staff a dozen or more for each shift.
One of those workers is Emily Johnson, a Georgetown resident who’s one of a few recent hires Fox has made from nearby ski resorts. Before working for CDOT, Johnson
was tuning boards at Loveland Ski Area’s ski shop; now, she operates heavy equipment and gets a steady, year-round paycheck.
Although it’s mid-March, it’s warm enough that, despite the 11,013 feet of elevation, we can chat through the window of her work truck as she waits to pull over any vehicle that trips the overheight detector before it can head into the tunnels. “It definitely beats sitting at a desk,” she says.
When I ask her about the culture at her new workplace, she looks away for a moment as if deciding how best to phrase her response. “I will say I am the only female up here, and everyone has been awesome about that,” she says. “It’s the first time in a male-dominated industry where I haven’t had anyone talk down to me like I can’t do my job.”
IT’S NOT UNTIL Fox and I return to the East Portal after our tour that we learn why his bosses were calling. The simple explanation is that the power wouldn’t come back on. The complex explanation is that the new supervisory control and data acquisition system acts, in part, as an interface between the tunnels’ decades-old electrical systems and the new ones CDOT has installed. Right now, it’s not interfacing.
This has happened before. In those cases, a straightforward reboot was all it took to get back online, but by the time we arrive, Roybal’s team has already tried that without success. Now, they’re diagnosing the problem by methodically flipping dozens of switches and breakers around the massive electrical room.
Despite the ticked-off motorists being held at the tunnel entrances because CDOT can’t risk letting them into a tar-black tunnel, everyone is calm. “There’s no need to freak out. The bosses do, but we don’t. During our car fires, during our accidents, it’s like, ‘It happened. We’re just here to clean it up. Just take it step by step,’ ” Fox says after getting off a call explaining the situation to headquarters in Denver. Then he points at Roybal and says, “But if he gets excited, then I’ll get excited.” When the tunnels were short-staffed a few years ago, Fox was the one throwing breaker switches (the electricians have “Paul-proofed” the complex electrical system by placing colorcoded magnets on the equipment to indicate which switches should be thrown in what order), but with pilot trucks beginning to shuttle drivers through the blacked-out tunnels at a safe pace, there’s little for him to do. So he continues our tour.
The East Portal’s interior is dominated by 16 multistory, apartment-size fans, which, together with their twins in the West Portal structure, expel carbon monoxide and other noxious gasses from the tunnels and help contain any vehicle fires. Tunnel fires are rare, but conflagrations happen about four times a week in the complex’s parking lots during the summer, when cars and trucks tend to overheat. The tunnels are so far from civilization, especially if traffic is backed up, that it might take an hour for help to arrive. That’s why EJMT staffers are cross-trained as firefighters and operate their own small fleet of fire trucks.
The ability to fight blazes is just one example of the wide skill set these workers need to have to—sometimes literally—keep the lights on. Because the tunnels are so old, replacement parts can be difficult to source. For a long time, tunnel staffers would build their own in the on-site machine shop to keep critical systems functioning, Fifer says.
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Since Fox has taken over, however, he’s moved away from that practice. “We should have never been making our own,” he says. “We should always use something that we have a warranty for. Something that has a patent so it is proven to work.” This can make finding parts challenging, but it means things should break less frequently. That’s a good thing. When one piece of equipment malfunctions, it puts more strain on the other systems, which are equally as old and fragile.
Fox points out one of the massive fans linked to the south tunnel bore. “Eighteen months ago, right there, the motor bearings grenaded on us,” he says. “The bearing cap weighs 225 pounds, so when it exploded, it was all over the place. It was making so much noise because you’ve got a 600-horsepower motor that doesn’t care what’s in its way.” It took two weeks to repair the damage and would have taken longer if they hadn’t had a few spare bearings in storage. Luckily,
the explosion didn’t affect the fan’s massive drive belt. They don’t make those anymore. When I ask what would’ve happened if they couldn’t fix the fan, Fox shrugs. The original builders concreted over the doors to build the complex’s waste water treatment plant, leaving Fox with no way to get the old fans out or new fans in. It’s not the first time the builders have made life hard on those who came later. During construction, they’d frequently had to reroute water pipes and cables as they went, and those changes often went undocumented in the blueprints.
The discrepancies between the blueprints and reality can be so bad that in the May/June 2020 issue of TR News, the Transportation Research Board’s trade magazine, former EJMT chief engineer Stephen Harelson wrote that one unofficial job at the tunnels was “water witch,” a maintainer who used a bent welding stick turned divining rod to locate water lines hidden behind the concrete. Fox has never heard of this—maybe due to turnover, maybe because it’s a tall tale, or maybe because the staff is too afraid to loop in its by-the-book boss. “I’m a guy that follows policy and procedures,” he says, “but just because something was always done a certain way doesn’t mean it has to be done that way.”
There’s sure to be more evaluation of the maintenance processes. With no plans for replacing or rebuilding the tunnels, upkeep will only become trickier and more taxing as they age and Colorado’s population and tourism industry continue to grow. And as traffic congestion increases, there’s some question of what that means for the tunnels as the linchpin that helped unify Colorado by allowing for easy ground transportation across the Continental Divide. Eventually, we could see that geographic division become more prominent once again. “These are symptoms of success,” says Cornell’s Jackson. “This wouldn’t be a problem if the tunnels didn’t work so effectively. If they hadn’t done so well at making economic life and social life and human life move across this divide, they would be just fine.”
After about an hour, the lights finally come back on. There isn’t any aha moment. Diligence and methodology finally get the intergenerational hardware and software to communicate. Now that everything’s working, the local news has moved on, the traffic jam has cleared, and skiers and truckers are speeding through the tunnels without really noticing them. They’ve become invisible once again. m
Nicholas Hunt is 5280’s senior editor. Send feedback to letters@5280.com.
JUL 17-21
Crested Butte, Colorado
The 15th annual Crested Butte Wine + Food Festival, celebrates the essential spirit of Crested Butte: art + community. This epicurean celebration brings world-class chefs, winemakers, brewers, distillers, sommeliers, and spirits experts together in the most scenic and charming town in Colorado.
Information and tickets at cbwineandfood.org.
JUL 18
Cherry Creek North, Fillmore Plaza | 6:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m.
Our annual, all-inclusive, bash celebrating the best stuff in and around Denver is back at Cherry Creek North! Mark your calendar and make sure you get your tickets before they sell out!
Information and tickets at 5280scene.com.
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Marjorie Park at Museum of Outdoor Arts oors at 5:30 p.m., Performance at 6:30 p.m.
A FREE event series hosted by the Museum of Outdoor Arts in Greenwood Village featuring a performance, wine, beer and yard games! On July 24th, event goers will enjoy music by bluegrass band, High Country Hustle. Attendees are welcome to bring picnics along with a chair or blanket! Snacks are also available for purchase on site.
Register for free tickets online at moaonline.org/uncorked.
SUNDAY, OCTOBER 20
MARK YOUR CALENDARS! Our annual bash honoring our city’s culinary stars is back this October. Join us for an evening filled with delicious menus from the 2024 5280 Best Restaurant winners.
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Summiting a fourteener is a Colorado rite of passage that requires mentally turning a mountain into a molehill. So we asked Colorado Mountain Club chief education officer and toddler mom Stacey Halvorsen how to prep small humans for the big climb. —JESSICA
1
Build stamina—not to mention resilience and confidence—with shorter excursions on smaller peaks. “I took my three-year-old to North Table Mountain,” Halvorsen says. “It was like Everest to him.” 2
Once Junior’s hiking boots are broken in and you think he or she is ready (age is just a number; you know your kid best), involve your grom in the planning process If your children don’t feel like their opinions matter, they won’t feel invested in the hike.
Arrive at the trailhead early to accommodate your wee ones’ shorter strides, and agree on a turnaround time lest they’re surprised and disappointed. To keep them engaged and teach them risk management skills, make observations (I see dark clouds) and ask questions (Should we keep going?) along the way. 3
Songs, riddles, and breathing techniques (right foot inhale, left foot exhale) can lift the mood, but don’t be afraid to let your child work through challenges. “It’s OK to be in that moment,” Halvorsen says. Getting past negative feelings to achieve the goal is part of the lesson. 4 5
If they do want to turn back, Halvorsen suggests taking a 10-minute snack break to give them time to consider their options. Then respect their decision, whether it’s to head home or bag the peak.
