Issuu

BY CHRIS WALKER

Harry,

‘TIS THE SEASON OLD FASHIONED

CHOCOLATE CANDY CANE

OLD FASHIONED

1.5 oz Old Forester 86 Proof Whiskey Bourbon

0.5 oz Creme de Cacao

0.5 oz Candy Cane Syrup (dissolve 4 candy canes in ½ cup hot water)

1 dropper Smoked

Cinnamon Bitters

RAINBOW COOKIE OLD FASHIONED

2 oz Old Forester 86 Proof

GINGERSNAP

OLD FASHIONED

0.25 oz Maple Syrup

2 Dashes Smoked Cinnamon Bitters

SEASON FOR A FESTIVE FASHIONED

FIGGY PUDDING OLD FASHIONED

2 oz Old Forester 86 Proof

Whiskey Bourbon

0.5 oz Pecan Liqueur

0.25 oz Rich Demerara Syrup

2 Dashes Black Walnut Bitters

Pinch of salt

Drink Responsibly.

2 oz Old Forester 86 Proof

Whiskey Bourbon 0.5 oz Fig Syrup

2 Dashes Almond Bitters

GINGERBREAD OLD FASHIONED 2 oz Old Forester 86 Proof

Whiskey Bourbon

0.25 oz Gingerbread Syrup

0.25 oz Molasses Syrup

2 Dashes Smoked

Cinnamon Bitters

42 Best Of The Mountain West

From a Colorado outfitter devoted to diversifying outdoor recreation to monumental art on a Montana sheep ranch, these are our region’s most exciting people, places, and experiences.

EDITED BY JESSICA LARUSSO

Gong Hei Fat Choy

Celebrate the Year of the Snake, which begins next month, with a Lunar New Year feast courtesy of MAKfam’s Kenneth Wan and Doris Yuen.

BY PATRICIA KAOWTHUM RONG AND ETHAN PAN

62 Following The Order

Forty years ago, a white supremacist network engineered the murder of a popular Denver radio host. A new movie recalls the investigation into the slaying—and the rise of far-right extremism.

BY CHRIS WALKER

James Florio/Courtesy of Tippet Rise Art Center

The Geode, a new classical music venue on the grounds of Montana’s Tippet Rise Art Center

Trust Your Intimate Health to Aguirre Specialty Care

Celebrating 25 Years in Practice

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Julie Starr is an accomplished advanced practice nurse and clinical researcher with 16 years of experience in the field of women’s health and an expert in pelvic floor disorders, providing top-notch care to women seeking evaluation and treatment for their pelvic concerns - from pelvic pain to bladder control issues.

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OSCAR

FROM THE EDITOR

16 5280’s new editor on what it means to celebrate the ingenuity and diversity of the West today.

COMPASS

19 DESIGN

Get festive this season with garlands from a Crested Butte maker that feature oh-so-Colorado designs.

20 INTERSECTIONS

Englewood’s glow-up is attracting breweries, restaurants, and more to the southern suburb.

22 Q&A

Colorado native and Hollywood filmmaker Jon Watts talks about his work on beloved franchises such as Spider-Man and Star Wars

24 TRAVEL

How to outfox Frontier by packing a weekend bag that flies free.

26 ADVENTURE

A new app helps Colorado gals find community in the great outdoors.

EAT & DRINK

29 WHAT’S HOT

Complete your holiday spread with a sweet treat—in flavors like ginger-spiced cranberry apple and peppermint mocha French silk—from Legacy Pie Co.

30 REVIEW

With chef and veteran sushi maker Corey Baker at the helm, Kumoya’s fresh fish program is what culinary dreams are made of. Plus: three eateries doing eggplant right.

68 DINING GUIDE

COLUMN

34 EDUCATION

A new law aims to make nature preschools more affordable. Will it also help them become more diverse?

BY ELISABETH KWAK-HEFFERAN

ACT LIKE A LOCAL

88 THE OVERSIMPLIFIED

GUIDE TO: WINTER FUN AT RUBY HILL PARK

Five tips for (safely) picking up speed at Denver’s most accessible snowsports destination. ON THE COVER

Photograph by Norman Harry

THE LEADING RESPIRATORY HOSPITAL IN THE NATION— READY FOR THE NEXT 125 YEARS.

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EDITOR

Jessica LaRusso

ART DIRECTOR

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EDITORIAL

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Charli Ornett

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Sean Parsons

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The sun sets early in the mountains. But Black Hawk lights up. With ﬁve distinct dining options.

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Letters to the editor must include your name, address, and a daytime phone number (all of which can be withheld from publication upon request). Letters may be submitted via regular mail or email (letters@5280.com). To have a restaurant considered for our Dining Guide, contact us by email (dining@5280.com) to receive a submission form. We also encourage you to contact us if your experience at a restaurant differs significantly from our listing. Information for this section should be submitted at least six weeks before the issue’s cover date.

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Go West

The first time I came to Colorado, I fell in love with the land. It was fall break at my university in my native Indiana, and on a whim, I jumped into a car with a couple of buddies who were driving out to do some hiking. On that trip, I took in the rippled horizon from the summit of Quandary Peak, got chased down a waterfall-dotted trail in Rocky Mountain National Park by a sudden thunderstorm, and drifted off to the sound of elk bugling outside an Estes Park cabin.

The second time I visited, I fell for the people. The wonder Colorado’s scenery had stirred in my flatlander heart compelled me to apply for an internship at this magazine. But when I flew in for the interview, it was the can-do enthusiasm I encountered in conversation after conversation that sold me on starting my career, and the next chapter of my life, here. In November 2009, amid the Great Recession, the job market was not great—a hard truth I’d heard repeatedly as I tried to network in Chicago and Indianapolis. In contrast to the literal and figurative gloom that hung over those places, in Denver, the sun shined and everyone I met had an uplifting anecdote about how they’d made their Colorado dream a reality.

Fifteen years later, I feel so lucky to be stepping into the editor role at 5280, a publication that exists largely to celebrate those very success stories. In this month’s “Best Of The Mountain West” (page 42), for example, we spotlight Bobby and Angel Massie, the founders of an outfitting operation that’s expanding access to Colorado’s backcountry by offering horseback rides and fly-fishing excursions led by guides who represent

the diversity of our state. Starting on page 52, “Gong Hei Fat Choy” features a Lunar New Year menu curated by Kenneth Wan and Doris Yuen, who took their Chinese American fare from a stall in a LoHi food hall to a nationally lauded brick-and-mortar in Baker. And “Following The Order” (page 62) tells the tale of reporter turned City Councilman Kevin Flynn. In 1984, he helped lead an investigation into a white supremacy organization that orchestrated a high-profile murder in Denver, and his resulting book is the basis for a star-studded Hollywood thriller that comes out on December 6. This issue exemplifies how 5280, for 31 years, has leveraged deep reporting, thoughtful storytelling, rich photography, and compelling design to remind

readers why this place and its people are so special. I’m honored and excited to continue that tradition, both in these pages and on 5280.com, where we publish news you can use, from lists of the city’s best tacos and bakeries to reviews of museum exhibits to Q&As with local politicians, musicians, and athletes. It’s my hope that the work we do encourages you to explore the breadth of experiences available to those of us fortunate enough to live here— and maybe even find inspiration for fulfilling your own Colorado dream.

JESSICA L a RUSSO Editor

jessica@5280.com

CHRIS SIMPSON Photographer

Food photography practically flows through Chris Simpson’s veins: His father, Jerry, shot covers for Food & Wine in the ’80s and ’90s, a legacy that inspired the younger Simpson to pursue a bachelor of fine arts in photography before moving to New York City in 2009 to work under his dad’s mentorship.

Now, Simpson is a freelance photographer himself, tasked with projects such as Food & Wine’s latest Thanksgiving issue. After moving to Denver two years ago, he began getting acquainted with Colorado’s dining culture. “The food scene out here is obviously a lot smaller than New York’s, but I think that’s changing,” he says. For this month’s “Gong Hei Fat Choy” (page 52), he captured an intimate Lunar New Year feast curated by Kenneth Wan and Doris Yuen of MAKfam, a buzzy, yearold Chinese restaurant and recent Michelin Bib Gourmand selection in Baker. “I believe food is so layered and has the ability to tell endless stories,” says Simpson, who travels often to photograph food for clients in Los Angeles, New York, and even Japan. “Food builds community, it enriches, it’s healing, and there are endless ways you can photograph and film it.”

From top: Sarah Banks; Courtesy of Chris Simpson

Deck The Halls

The early days of the COVID-19 pandemic ushered in an era of experimentation—baking sourdough bread, learning TikTok dances, mastering pickleball shots. In Crested Butte resident Carolyn Huresky’s case, arts and crafts ruled. Although Huresky had never taken an art class before, she began making illuminated shadow boxes and selling them at local markets. The intricate scenes were popular but took far too long to construct. Then, before Crested Butte’s 2023 holiday bazaar, Huresky stumbled upon a gondola-shaped garland on Pinterest. “I thought it was so neat,” she says, “but we don’t have gondolas here; we have chairlifts.” With the help of an electronic cutting machine, she turned cardstock into tiny chairlifts and notable Crested Butte buildings (pictured) that better represented the town where she’s lived for 23 years. “I never had anything sell like the chairlift garland,” Huresky says, “and I thought, OK, maybe I’ve got something here.” This past May, she launched Creative Garland Company, which makes laser-cut paper garlands inspired by life in the Rockies. From columbine flowers to aspen leaves to mountain bikes, each design adds a touch of local pride to holiday decorating. Starting at $15 for a nine-foot-long garland —MICHELLE

SHORTALL

PHOTOGRAPH BY SARAH BANKS & STYLING BY CHARLI ORNETT

Rockin’ The Suburb

Tired of being known as a sleepy suburb, Englewood has spent the past three years glowing up: paving and landscaping its main thoroughfare, adding public art installations, and upgrading its street lighting and safety features. The renovations haven’t gone unnoticed. These five businesses have recently expanded or relocated to Denver’s southern neighbor. —MS

1 Osteria Alberico

3455 S. UNIVERSITY BLVD.

With its range of popular dining concepts—including upscale Italian at Tavernetta and Neapolitan-style pies at Pizzeria Alberico—Frasca Hospitality Group has made its mark on downtown Denver and Boulder, respectively. The restaurant firm’s next quest? Conquering the suburbs. In July, the group opened its fifth eatery, Osteria Alberico, in an unassuming Englewood shopping center.

Expect elevated rustic Italian fare, including ribbon-shaped malfadine pasta dressed in a savory beef and pork Bolognese,

white- and red-sauce pizzas, and hearty proteins (we recommend the roasted bone-in pork chop with Palisade Honeycrisp apples)—all in a chic but relaxed setting.

2 Mutiny Information Cafe

3483 S. BROADWAY

After 11 years in the Baker neighborhood, this beloved book/comics shop and coffee bar moved five miles south on Broadway in October to escape rising rent. Mutiny patrons will find small-batch coffees roasted by Westminster’s Subjective Coffee, a sprawling collection of new and used comic books, pinball machines, live entertainment, and— due to the Englewood location’s smaller footprint—an abbreviated selection of secondhand books and vinyl records.

3 Lady Justice Brewing Company

3242 S. ACOMA ST.

Englewood residents said farewell to one of the city’s three breweries this past February, when Sunroom Brewing shuttered after only a year and a half in business. Luckily for locals, Lady Justice didn’t let the spacious brewhouse behind the Gothic Theatre sit vacant for long: The queer- and woman-owned operation moved there from Aurora this past March. Its lineup of six core brews with cheeky names—including the Ski Jorts pale lager and Heck Yeah! hard seltzer—and rotating seasonal pours help lubricate monthly bingo games and weekly trivia nights. Plus, Lady Justice also serves as a gathering space for local organizations that support women and the LGBTQ+ community.

4 EASEL

3485 S. BROADWAY

In November, Denver painter Nicole Korbe opened a new arts center in the vacant retail space above Mutiny Information Cafe. EASEL (Englewood Art Studios, Events, and Lessons) houses four rentable studios for local artists and space for pop-up workshops, yoga sessions, and private events. Rotating exhibitions should start in January, when Korbe moves her Arts District on Santa Fe gallery, NKollectiv, and all of its paintings, sculptures, ceramics, and jewelry (made by Korbe and other Colorado artists) to EASEL as well.

5 Rodz & Bodz Movie Car Museum

401 ENGLEWOOD PARKWAY

After outgrowing its space in Lakewood’s Colorado Mills mall and a short stint in Greeley, this museum and rental company hauled its 100-car fleet to a former Hobby Lobby building in Englewood in October. Stroll through the warehouse of hot rods for $12, raise your toddler’s birthday party to the next level by renting a reallife replica of Cars’ Lightning McQueen, or fulfill your own childhood fantasies by taking the Ghostbusters ambulance, Harry Potter’s flying car, or a replica of the Back to the Future Delorean for a spin.

From top: TruBlue

Images/Courtesy of Lady Justice Brewing; Courtesy of Rodz & Bodz Movie Car Museum

From top: A cheers-worthy moment at Lady Justice; wheels from Rodz & Bodz Movie Car Museum’s fleet

The Rise Of Watts

As a high schooler in Fountain, 15 miles south of Colorado Springs, Jon Watts would borrow his brother-in-law’s video camera every weekend to make silly films with his friends. Instead of writing the essays that had been assigned for homework, he’d turn in video versions.

Fast-forward nearly 30 years, and Watts, 43, is one of the most indemand filmmakers in Hollywood. He directed all three movies in the most recent Spider-Man reboot, directed George Clooney and Brad Pitt in this past fall’s Wolfs, and co-created, cowrote, and directed a new Star Wars series starring Jude Law, which premieres on Disney+ on December 3.

Ahead of the release of Star Wars: Skeleton Crew—which revolves around four kids who stumble upon a lost Jedi temple that transports them to a galaxy far, far away—5280 spoke with Watts about joining the multibillion-dollar sci-fi franchise, his filmmaking journey, and how Colorado continues to inspire his work. —GREGORY JAMES WAKEMAN

5280: How has being from Colorado impacted your vision as a director?

Jon Watts: My first film, [2015’s]

Cop Car, is a pretty realistic reflection of what growing up in Fountain was like—up until the part where the kids are menaced by Kevin Bacon’s character. My friends and I would just walk out in those fields and hope that we’d stumble across some sort of adventure. Literally, those exact fields: The house where Kevin Bacon lives in the movie is directly across the street from where I grew up.

I also always think about nature and the weather [in my films]. For example, Wolfs is set over the course of one night, and it’s snowing. It accumulates throughout the movie. If I hadn’t grown up in Colorado, I would not have thought so much about the quality and texture of the snow. My imagination was formed by the Rocky Mountains: the way the clouds roll over the peaks and storms pass over the high plains; how the light changes as the sun goes behind clouds.

Were you a big Star Wars fan?

I was the AV kid in school, and the band did a John Williams medley. One of my jobs, in addition to playing the saxophone, was to make a video edit of the

medley. So there are certain moments from Star Wars that I’ve watched over and over and over. My co-creator Christopher Ford is the true Star Wars expert. I’m a fan, but he grew up near Skywalker Ranch [in California]. Between the two of us, I think we have a really good balance on how to tackle Star Wars

You joined the Marvel Cinematic Universe when you directed the latest Spider-Man trilogy, and now you’re venturing into Star Wars. How do you make something that’s unique but also fits into these massive franchises?

With Skeleton Crew, it was about finding a new point of view to tell a Star Wars story from. I just thought: What’s it like to be 10 or 11 years old and see something that blows your mind? I was about that old the first time I went to New York. I remember being a kid from Fountain and suddenly being surrounded by skyscrapers and thinking, What is this place? This is amazing. [The Skeleton Crew characters have] grown up in a really sheltered place. It was about throwing those 10-yearolds, who aren’t aware of the Star Wars galaxy, into a world that they don’t completely understand. So we had to look at this world that we know and love through a fresh set of eyes. That’s what was exciting to me.

Courtesy of Lucasfilm

Director Jon Watts (right) on the set of Star Wars: Skeleton Crew

This Bag Flies Free

LET’S ROLL

Sikora fit five different outfits into this case—two casual ensembles, two for going out, and one workout set—simply by rolling, rather than folding, the clothes. However, if you want more space, Sikora recommends investing in compression cubes: plastic cases that you can press the air from, the results of which are not unlike a vacuum-sealed steak.

BULK UP

The key to traveling ultralight? Wear your heavier gear—such as denim, a blazer, and the puffer jacket you’ll need to survive in the Midwest—on the plane to save precious cargo space.

It’s a holiday tradition seemingly as old as St. Nick himself: Lured by visions of low, low prices, we book a flight on Frontier Airlines to see family, only to realize that the Denver-based carrier’s exorbitant bag fees have turned our bargain into a boondoggle. But there is a loophole: Frontier allows each passenger a free carry-on item—a single 14-by-18-byeight-inch bag. The trouble is figuring out how to jam everything you need for a weekend away into a postagestamp-size receptacle, which is why we asked Stephanie Sikora, a professional organizer and the owner of Sikora Solutions in Denver, for tips on outfoxing Frontier.

—SPENCER CAMPBELL

COMBO PLATTER

Sikora packed three shirts, a set of pajamas, two pairs of black pants (both upscale athleisure), and an athletic jacket. Just as important as their functions, though, are their colors—they share the same palette, which means they’re interchangeable to fit any occasion. Staying home for family game night? T-shirt and black pants. Heading to a holiday party? Add a blazer and a piece of statement jewelry and you’re ready for a mistletoe meet-cute.

COSMETICS SURGERY

The voluminous duffel required to transport your toiletries (read: makeup, lotions, etc.) will have to be sacrificed in favor of a small, flat clutch-style purse that will serve double duty as an accessory and a toiletry bag. Choosing what to leave behind isn’t that difficult. Just think about what your host, whether a hotel or a relative, can provide, like shampoo or a hair dryer, and then visit the travel-size section of your local King Soopers to fill in the rest.

FORGET YOUR KICKS

Organization experts love limits: If you can’t fit a book on your shelf, ditch it. A finite amount of space creates boundaries that ensure clutter doesn’t overwhelm your life. On this trip, your shoe quota is two pairs. One should be a tennis shoe that is versatile enough for physical activity and still looks good with casual outfits; you’ll wear these on the plane. The other is a sleeker variety (think: loafers or flats) that can slide into your bag.

Girls Gone Wild

Backcountry Beauties is a new app that helps adventurous Colorado ladies find community in the great outdoors.

In late 2023, Ellie Frost was finally ready to return to the slopes. But after three years of studying for an intense computer programming degree and recovering from prolonged COVID-19 symptoms, the Denver resident knew she wouldn’t be able to keep up with her ski buddies from Dillon and Vail, where Frost had lived before moving to the Front Range. So she posted to a women-only Facebook group for Colorado-based backcountry skiers, seeking a fresh crop of winter sports cohorts.

Three dozen people wrote back, and a subsequent in-person meetup led to a WhatsApp chat for “backcountry beauties,” Frost says. Less than a week later, when the chat had reached more than 300 members, two things became clear to Frost: She wasn’t the only Colorado gal yearning for a sense of community, and she possessed the skills to bring people together. “I realized this is the app that I would build,” she says.

By March of this year, Backcountry Beauties was in early-stage beta testing. Now, the app is live and has more than 2,000 users ages 22 to 72, all of whom identify as women. To create her app, Frost cherry-picked the best elements of other social platforms: She fused Facebook’s ability to spark conversations with meetup. com’s event-planning expertise. Unlike Bumble BFF, which funnels users into potentially awkward one-on-one interactions, Backcountry Beauties emphasizes gathering in group settings. Profiles detail personal preferences, such as acceptable risk level and safety certifications, to help users find the right outdoorsy crew. Members can then join groups organized by activity (from downhill skiing to mushroom foraging), location (say, Front Range or San Miguel County), and ski pass affiliation (Ikon vs. Epic). Online chats within the groups can lead to in-person adventuring or other

gatherings—such as gear swaps, trivia nights at craft breweries, and get-toknow-yous at spots like Punch Bowl Social on Broadway—that allow women to meet potential pals on flat ground before heading into the backcountry together. “So many of the events, women come completely alone,” Frost says, adding that it doesn’t take long before they “start laughing and connecting with new community sisters.”

Backcountry Beauties’ events calendar, chat groups, and community forums are all free, but subscription tiers (starting at $40 annually) bundle in other outdoor apps like onX and AllTrails and include access to video tutorials about ski-touring basics, avalanche reports, and more.

In the coming years, Frost will chart new terrain by expanding events beyond Colorado’s borders—including, perhaps, a peak-to-fjord ski trip in Norway. And as the app—and its community—expands, Frost ultimately sees Backcountry Beauties “as a way to help people who are segmented and isolated connect with other people,” she says. “You should only have to ride a chairlift solo if you actually want to be alone, not because you have no one to go with you.”

—COURTNEY HOLDEN

A group of Backcountry Beauties touring in Mayflower Gulch south of Copper Mountain

CLOSE TO HOME, A WORLD AWAY.

Make our home your getaway. As a token of our appreciation, The Broadmoor is extending exclusive nightly rates to our Colorado neighbors for select dates in January and February 2025. Enjoy weekday rates as low as $298* in January, and $339* in February. With weekend rates starting at $318* in January.

Offer includes:

• Complimentary golf greens fees (cart rental not included) thru April 3, 2025

• Complimentary outdoor tennis and pickleball court time thru April 3, 2025

• Suites available at 25% off of published rates

Savor delightful meals in our award-winning restaurants including three-course prix fixe dinners January 1 st through February 28 th* at The Broadmoor’s Ristorante del Lago, Golden Bee and La Taverne. Italian-centric Del Lago’s is $59 per person, gastropub Golden Bee is $49 per person, while the steakhouse Taverne’s is $69 per person.

PHOTOGRAPH BY SARAH BANKS & STYLING BY CHARLI ORNETT

Cloud Land

With chef and veteran sushi maker Corey Baker at the helm, Kumoya’s fresh fish program is what culinary dreams are made of.

—AMANDA M. FAISON

When Kumoya Japanese

Kitchen opened in LoHi in October 2023, it was intended to evoke a dreamlike state.

The word kumoya, after all, means cloud shop or valley in Japanese.

“That’s how I feel about nigiri, like the rice ball is a little cloud,” says chef Corey Baker. “The perfect bite is a perfect cloud dissolving in your mouth.”

Baker is no stranger to the sashimi knife. In fact, if you’ve sat at a local high-end sushi bar (such as Sushi

Den, Sushi Sasa, or Sushi Hai) in the past 20 years, chances are Baker has been behind it. Prior to Kumoya, he debuted and was a minority partner in LoHi’s Sushi Ronin in 2016. That restaurant was teensy, but it marked a new phase for Baker, who leaned into a chef’s-tasting-menu format.

“At Ronin, I spread my wings with omakase, but I was confined by the space,” he says. “I wanted to find a place that would give the experience to more people.”

When Tony P’s closed its Zuni Street location in 2022, Max Mackissock—chief culinary officer of the Culinary Creative Group behind Bar Dough, A5 Steakhouse, and others— tapped Baker to helm Kumoya’s kitchen and help with the restaurant’s design. Baker took advantage of the multiroom space, which has a front area with cushy banquets and a generous sushi bar, a low-lit dining room (anchored by cloudlike lights), and a back bar called Bar Kumo. “With the different rooms, you have a different feeling,” he says, “just like they’re different valleys.”

Given Baker’s pedigree, it’s no surprise that Kumoya’s fish is exquisite. Forget the typical salmon, yellowtail,

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SARAH BANKS ^

From left: Kumoya’s back bar; a selection of dry-aged fish with the mezcal-and-yuzu Hakuto cocktail

HAPPY HOLIDAYS AURORA

In Aurora, CO, the spirit of the season is as diverse as our community. Join us as we celebrate multicultural traditions and rich heritage that bring holiday cheer from around the globe to local boutiques, unique eats, and events that make the season shine.

and tuna options. Baker wants to push diners past culinary mundanity. One evening, I ordered the mikan buri, an orange yellowtail raised in Japan and fed—get this—tangerines and chocolate. Consider it the wagyu of fish, and damn, was it a prize. The first taste was vaguely citrusy, and the bite as a whole was sweet and creamy.

You can dive deep into offerings like black seaperch, emperor fish, and white trevally, but don’t overlook the dry-aged fish, a Japanese food tradition that’s just begun to appear in Denver. A small corner of Kumoya’s many-paged, slightly confusing menu lists these treasures, which trap all the umami into the flesh of the fish, similar to how aged beef deepens in flavor. The result is a rich, extra savory morsel, which I experienced with bites of the five-day-aged kanpachi. Still delicate and clean, the fish’s overarching impression was that of French butter. Without exception, order the broiled eggplant. For those who’ve tucked into chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s iconic miso black cod—or one of its myriad facsimiles—envision that dish reimagined with eggplant. A cross-section arrives steaklike and topped with a layer of crunchy, toasty rice balls. Use the provided wooden spoon to dig down into the sweet, custardy flesh.

If you’re ever unsure about what to get, lean into the recommendations of your highly informed server, who will undoubtedly mention the hits-everynote sandoitchi: Marvelously squishy milk bread bookends decadent fried chicken and Japanese egg salad for the ultimate sandwich. Our server’s beverage suggestions were pro-level as well

and yielded my new favorite wine, a juicy, orange-y Pinot Gris named ES Okay, sold by the glass.

Amid the must-haves, though, there were misses. A truly wonderful spotted prawn ceviche came without a spoon, and thus without a way to enjoy the superb tomato-cucumber water at the bottom of the bowl. A salmontartare-avocado roll promised an apple and serrano vinaigrette that delivered zero hints of either. Lastly, and most egregiously, the crab fried rice was easily the most boring $32 dish I’ve ever eaten. It arrived donburi-style in a clay pot designed to meld the ingredients and crisp the bottom layer of rice. We were instructed to mind the piping hot pot, but it was barely warm, much like the rice and cubed veggies held within. Two pieces of rosy snow crab crisscrossed the top and provided the only flavor. And I do mean that: The unseasoned dish tasted like...clouds.

Perhaps not every item meets Baker’s sky-high expectations, but my guess is that after one visit, you’ll be dreaming of a return. And why not? With a sushi menu that changes almost daily, there’s more to discover with each new bite.

KUMOYA JAPANESE KITCHEN

2400 W. 32nd Ave. kumoyadenver.com

The Draw: First-rate selection of fresh fish; sushi that strays from the usual

The Drawback: Occasional hiccups might make you think twice about the price

Noise Level: Medium

Don’t Miss: Miso eggplant, mikan buri, dry-aged fish, any nigiri your server recommends, chicken katsu sandoitchi

A NEGLECTED FRUIT GETS ITS DUE

Eggplant gets a lot of shade. While some protest that it’s too tough or too bitter, Kumoya’s version is flawless. If you’d like to give this overlooked fruit another chance, the novel preparations at these local spots give you a delicious opportunity. —AMF

DIMESTORE DELIBAR

From left: The chicken katsu sandoitchi; chef Corey Baker; Kumoya’s broiled eggplant

Dimestore Delibar has been slinging dimeroll sandwiches (flattened focaccia rolled up around a delicious mess of fillings) in LoHi since 2020. Get the vegetable muffuletta, which strays from the iconic, cold-cutloaded sando from New Orleans. In this version, chef and owner Tim Dotson piles roasted eggplant, baba ganoush, crisp cucumber, and greens on a mini homemade pita with the classic’s provolone, giardiniera, and olive tapenade.

HOP ALLEY

The eggplant with garlic sauce—a common item on Chinese American menus—is anything but ho-hum at RiNo’s nine-year-old Hop Alley. There, executive chef Geoff Cox serves flash-fried and then braised chunks of the fruit in a sticky, sweet sauce seasoned with aromatics and chile crisp and garnished with garlic oil, crunchy garlic, and sliced scallions.

COPERTA

At nine-year-old Coperta in North Capitol Hill, culinary director and co-owner Paul Reilly does eggplant justice by turning it into a filling for ravioli. Cooked down and paired with goat cheese, oregano, pistachios, and a touch of dried fruit, this iteration will give those who are unsure about the ingredient a new appreciation for what it can do.

Take It Outside

Kate Strebe’s daughter, Maya, is an intense kid. Full of big emotions and boundless energy, she’s the type of child who runs laps around the living room at the end of the day. So, when Strebe and her husband decided to enroll Maya in preschool in 2023, they worried about how their then three-yearold would adjust. Could Maya handle sitting still inside a classroom for much of the day?

Turns out, she wouldn’t have to. The Strebes stumbled upon a preschool that operates out of Denver-area parks and watched in amazement as “Maya just blossomed,” Strebe says. Maya, whose name has been changed to protect her privacy, spent her days climbing trees, building shelters out of branches, and splashing in creeks. She practiced writing her name with a stick in the sand and learned numbers by counting the needles on a pine bough. She even sat still. “She’ll spend 15 minutes just watching the way the ants move,” Strebe says. “Her ability to be out and engaged with kids her own age got better, and there was less fighting at home. Her math skills exploded.”

A new law aims to make nature preschools more affordable. Will it also help them become more diverse?

BY ELISABETH KWAK-HEFFERAN

There was only one problem: money. The Colorado Universal Pre-K Program (UPK), which launched in August 2023, entitled the Strebes to 10 hours per week of free tuition at their local Cherry Creek School District preschool. That was a big deal, as both Strebe and her husband were between jobs at the time. They could not, however, use that subsidy at Maya’s school because it—as well as most other nature preschools—wasn’t licensed by the state. The Strebes managed to cover the cost of tuition ($952 per month for 18 hours a week) through a combination of credit cards and gifts from Maya’s grandparents. By signing up for federal food assistance and visiting food pantries, the family made their ends meet. “This school is perfect for her,” Strebe says. “It’s what she needs. Moving her into a traditional preschool for the UPK money—we decided it wouldn’t be worth it.”

With Maya attending her nature preschool full time this year, the cost has risen to $1,700 per month. Strebe and her husband are working now, but paying the bill is still a struggle. The Strebes have sacrificed retirement contributions and prescription medications to pay for it. “My dream is that we’ll be able to use UPK funds to send my younger child to nature preschool,” Strebe says. Thanks to legislation passed this summer, she may get her wish.

NATURE-BASED PRESCHOOLS , sometimes called forest schools, originated in Europe around the 1950s and have been mushrooming across the United States for the past 15 years or so. Some operate on public lands, some out of teachers’ homes; others partner with museums or nature centers. What they have in common is that their students spend most or all of their time outdoors, in all kinds of weather. The Centennial State is currently home to about 45 such schools,

Kate Strebe’s daughter (pictured) is thriving in a Denver outdoor preschool.

according to Jennifer Kollerup of the Colorado Collective for Nature-Based Early Education, an educator support group.

Parents seek out nature preschools for lots of reasons: because they don’t like the idea of their kids being indoors all day, because they value a connection to nature, because they believe children learn better outside. Research says they’re onto something. Studies published in a litany of peer-reviewed journals over the past few decades suggest that outdoor schools promote critical thinking, problem-solving, teamwork, and risk assessment. They lower stress and increase physical activity and prosocial behaviors (translation: compassion, helping others) and can be particularly beneficial to children with autism or attention deficit hyperactivity disorder. What’s more, nature school graduates are just as ready for kindergarten as their traditional school peers in terms of social-emotional skills and early academics, such as letter recognition and counting. (Full disclosure: I sent both of my kids to an outdoor preschool.)

Despite growing evidence of their benefits, nature programs have long been forced to negotiate a tricky truce with government officials. Centennial State regulators oversee

preschool licensing, and one of the Colorado Department of Early Childhood’s (CDEC) most basic requirements is access to an emergency shelter, which many outdoor schools don’t have. (Why pay rent on a facility, after all, when students are always outside?) “Our top priority is making sure children are not being cared for in dangerous situations,” says Mary Alice Cohen, director for the Office of Program Delivery for the CDEC. When it came to outdoor preschools, officials worried about everything from frigid weather to wild animals to whether kids would have to poop in the woods. (Many cancel school in extreme cold; wild animals typically aren’t an issue; and, sometimes, they do, cathole-style.)

childcare but doesn’t really help working families.

Thus far, many nature programs have been operating under exemptions to state licensure rules, which the CDEC created for certain types of preschools, such as religious ones. The dispensations can be onerous. All of them limit the number of students who can enroll, and some advise that schools keep short hours— a stipulation that allows, say, a gym to offer

Even when they’re operating legally under exemptions, many outdoor preschools shy away from attracting the attention of the CDEC; several we spoke to for this story, including Maya’s school, requested we not disclose their names. They don’t always advertise their services, relying on word-of-mouth marketing that results in the enrollment of kids from similar families—usually white ones. That’s a byproduct of many factors, including the fact that outdoor schools tend to be where the green spaces are: Public and private lands are, naturally, easier to come by in the suburbs, foothills, and mountains than in the heart of Denver or Colorado Springs. Affordability is also an issue. “We know diversity of all kinds is really underrepresented” in Colorado outdoor schools, Kollerup says. A 2022 survey from the environmental education organization Natural Start Alliance reported that 78 percent of nature preschool students across the country were white. By comparison, kids of color made up more than two-thirds of the

Boukman Byrd, a teacher at a local nature school

Courtesy of Boukman Byrd

three- and four-year-olds in licensed Colorado preschools in 2021-’22.

That being said, children of all backgrounds were woefully underrepresented in pre-K classes that year, when 77 percent of Colorado’s fouryear-olds didn’t enroll in or lacked access to a high-quality preschool. Lawmakers designed the UPK program to help remedy that gap in early education by making up to 15 hours per week of preschool free for everyone in the year before kindergarten. But the funds—as

well as subsidies for low-income parents from the Colorado Child Care Assistance Program for Families (CCCAP)—didn’t flow to most nature schools, because they weren’t licensed.

ALTHOUGH SHE’S A TEACHER at a traditional middle school in Loveland, Janice Marchman recognizes the benefits of nature pre-Ks. “These outdoor programs are really good for a lot of kids,” says Marchman, who’s also a state senator representing western Boulder and

Larimer counties. “Yet, they’re very expensive. They become quite exclusive.” So, during the 2024 legislative session, Marchman worked with the Colorado Collective for NatureBased Early Education to co-sponsor SB 24-078. The bill, signed by Governor Jared Polis in June, made Colorado only the second state (behind Washington) to create a license option for full-day outdoor preschools— thereby ensuring the organizations will be eligible for CCCAP and UPK funds.

Licenses could also spur a much-needed boom in outdoor schools. The waiting list at AdventureMe Forest and Nature School in Black Forest, north of Colorado Springs, numbers more than 100. “Programs like mine can’t possibly serve the amount of families that are looking for this,” director Tamara Wineland says. While outdoor preschool advocates are pushing for a teacher-to-student ratio requirement of 1:6 (the ratio in traditional preschools is 1:10 for three-year-olds and 1:12 for fourand five-year-olds), the exact regulations of the new license are not yet clear. SB 24-078 directs the CDEC to create rules specific to nature schools by the end of 2025, opening the door for licensed programs to kick off in spring 2026. (Current outdoor preschools can apply for a special waiver, introduced in September, to bridge the gap.)

One guideline legislators baked directly into the bill: Providers can use structures like RVs or covered pavilions to meet the department’s emergency shelter requirement, rather than rent costly permanent structures that increase their overhead and tuition. “I think it’s groundbreaking and amazing progress,” Rebecca Van Der Like, owner of Seedlings Kindertribe nature preschool in Fort Collins, says of the new law. “It will open up so many opportunities for children to take their learning into nature.”

BOUKMAN BYRD GREW up catching tadpoles and crawfish in Texas; after he moved to Denver as a teen, he worked at an adventure camp in Estes Park and taught city kids how to fish. Still, he had no idea nature preschools existed until the founder of one in the Denver area took a martial arts class Byrd was teaching. “Like most parents, I was like, This is a thing?” says Byrd, who is Black. His next question: “Aren’t the kids in danger?” Byrd visited the preschool with his youngest child, Dionysus, and felt reassured enough to sign his son up in spring 2023. “He loved it,” says Byrd, who now teaches at the preschool and often shares his family’s experience with prospective parents—particularly parents of color.

Making nature preschools more affordable is one thing. Making them more diverse, however, will require a good deal of healing. “There’s

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EDUCATION

a lot of harm that has historically happened to us in outdoor spaces,” says Dr. Deja Jones, the co-founder of the Black Educators Network, which connects environmental educators across the country, and founder of a nature-centered preschool in Newark, New Jersey. “Many parents don’t allow their children outside because of our perceptions about what safety looks like.” That trauma stretches back to slavery and lynching and continues today, from everyday microaggressions to high-profile incidents that make the news: In 2020, a white woman in New York City’s Central Park called the police on a Black birdwatcher. That same year, white men murdered Ahmaud Arbery, a Black man, while he jogged through their Georgia neighborhood.

Both Byrd and Jones view outreach, along with access to resources and funding, as key to ensuring that all children reap the benefits of nature preschools. “Programs recruiting, learning how to go into different communities and educate them about the physical and mental health benefits, would really make a difference,” Jones says. Byrd’s school, one of the few in Colorado located in an urban area, engages communities of color through neighborhood events, workshops, and afterschool programs around Denver, and it also offers a sliding scale for tuition. Last year, students of color accounted for 43 percent of the school’s enrollment.

Although SB 24-078 does not allocate funds for outreach, the law’s passage in and of itself might reassure parents, says Debbie Groff, childcare deputy senior administrator for the state of Washington’s Department of Children, Youth & Families. “Anytime you license a program, you’re really letting families know there’s eyes and ears out here,” Groff says. “We’re here to make sure your kids are placed in spaces that we will ensure are safe and healthy for them.”

With growing approval from the government and parents, some advocates envision a future in which public school districts launch outdoor pre-Ks and perhaps, eventually, even some K–12 nature options. That’s Kate Strebe’s new dream for her children, anyway. With kindergarten looming next year, Strebe worries about Maya’s ability to adapt to a traditional public school. “Nature school gives her the space and tools to self-regulate,” she says. Strebe hopes another year outdoors will help get Maya ready for the next step. Until then, Maya will spend her days making pine cone art, balancing on logs, and learning to identify different ducks in their natural habitats. Classic Colorado kid stuff, in other words. m

Elisabeth Kwak-Hefferan is a freelance writer based in Missoula, Montana. Send feedback to letters@5280.com.

Bobby Massie (center), former Denver Bronco and co-founder of Colorado outfitter Wanderland Outdoors, with riding instructors Emma Brown (left) and Alex Schoenberger

From a Colorado outfitter devoted to diversifying outdoor recreation to monumental art on a Montana sheep ranch, these are the region’s most exciting people, places, and experiences.

EDITED BY JESSICA LARUSSO

PHOTOGRAPH BY SARAH BANKS

WEST GOLD HILL DINOSAUR TRACKWAY

For decades, the Charles family traversed their dozens of acres of property in Ouray County searching for gold, their dogs often stopping to lap water that collected in potholelike depressions in a stretch of sandstone. Local kids—including a boy named Rick Trujillo, starting in the late 1950s—also wandered into the area from nearby trails and wondered about the divots. But it wasn’t until Trujillo returned to the site about 10 years ago to investigate (and, eventually, tip off a Fort Lewis College professor) that anyone understood the land’s true treasure: 134 footprints over 106 yards, left by a long-necked sauropod that made a 270-degree turn there some 150 million years ago. This past spring, the Charles Real Estate Trust sold several parcels to the U.S. Forest Service, and the site—confirmed as the world’s longest continuous dinosaur trackway—is now publicly accessible via a challenging, steep two-mile hike up the Silvershield Trail. Visitors are asked to be respectful of limited parking at the trailhead, which is in a residential neighborhood, and leave no trace, but they’re welcome to frolic in the footprints, just as Ouray residents have been doing for generations. —JL

THE BURNING OF ZOZOBRA

NM Usually, a crowd shouting, “Burn him! Burn him!” would be cause for alarm, but it’s standard procedure every Labor Day weekend in Santa Fe, when a massive effigy named Zozobra— Spanish for distress and anxiety—is stuffed with papers representing things that bring locals despair (think: divorce forms, mortgages). The chanting continues until fireworks spew from Zozobra’s mouth, ignite his shredded-paper hair, and shower flames down his 50-foot-tall cloth, wood, and wire body. For

the 100th anniversary event this past August, 71,685 attendees from 24 countries gathered at Zozobra Field in Fort Marcy Park. Rooted in the traditions of Yaqui Indian communities in Arizona and Mexico, the festival dates to 1924, when a local artist built a six-foot effigy in his backyard. In 1964, he gave his blueprints to the local Kiwanis Club, and his ritual has become the group’s biggest fundraiser of the year (tickets start at $25). Festivities begin the week before the burning with an art festival as well as an event during which the city’s leastworried residents—kids— stuff the body. —Jen Murphy

ANNETTE

M c GIVNEY

While lawyers prepared for the federal trial of Charles Barrett in Sacramento, journalist and author Annette McGivney was conducting her own investigation into the prominent California rock climber’s alleged history of violence, harassment, intimidation, and sexual abuse. In January—days before the court proceedings began—Outside magazine published her year’s worth of reporting, which included poring over court documents and police reports and interviewing victims who were not going to testify. “Before the story was out, the victims were made to feel like they were exaggerating,” McGivney, who lives in southwestern Colorado, says. “It was hugely rewarding for me to honor their stories.” (In February, Barrett was found guilty of two counts of aggravated sexual abuse and one count of abusive sexual contact. In June, he was sentenced to life in prison for the rape of a woman in Yosemite National Park.) Next up for McGivney: a book about cultural appropriation and homicide investigations in the wellness industry. Then, she says, “I have a dream of buying a van, traveling and hiking, and not worrying about horrible things.” —Stephanie Pearson

Norman Harry; Alejandra Rubio

AUTUMN HARRY

Book Autumn Harry to take you fishing, and you’ll be in for a lot more than a lesson on fly-tying. Harry, 32, is the first Numu (Northern Paiute) woman flyfishing guide on Nevada’s Kooyooe Pa’a Panunadu, or Pyramid Lake, and she prides herself on teaching clients the culture and history of her people as they cast for Lahontan cutthroat trout in the desert basin oasis 40 miles northeast of Reno. “There’s so much to gain from learning from an Indigenous person whose homelands you’re on,” says Harry, who is also Diné, or Navajo. “Paiute women have always had this really important role in caring for the fish. It’s important for me as a Native woman to carry that forward.” When she’s not guiding, Harry works as a community organizer around water issues and paints murals: Find her latest, a celebration of Great Basin Indigenous tribes and their legacy of water and land protection, on the campus of the University of Nevada, Reno. —Elisabeth Kwak-Hefferan

LOGE GLACIER

Updating a beloved mountain lodge like the Izaak Walton Inn is a fine line to hike. The 85-year-old hotel, which sits by the southern border of Glacier National Park, needed some TLC when lodging company LOGE (Live Outside, Go Explore) bought it in 2022. But if it changed too much, the brand risked ruining Izaak Walton’s old-school charm—and alienating generations of visitors. Happily, LOGE pulled it off. The inn, rechristened LOGE Glacier when it reopened in September, boasts both necessary repairs (bringing electrical up to code, covering lead paint) and tasteful style upgrades. Common spaces now feature mountain-modern furniture, lodge rooms sport hammocks, the restaurant serves more veggie and gluten-free options, and mountain bike, paddleboard, and fly-fishing equipment rentals are included in the $25/ night amenity fee. What hasn’t changed? The 40-room inn’s historical railroad aesthetic—Amtrak’s Empire Builder line still stops here—from locomotive memorabilia on the walls to nine train cars turned into stand-alone cabins. —EKH

LESLIE BAHN STEEN

WY Born and raised on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, Leslie Bahn Steen never imagined she’d become a poster woman for Jackson Hole. She was on a serious classical music career track before she got hooked on the outdoors. After earning her master’s degree in fish and wildlife management at Montana State University, she moved to Jackson and began working for Trout Unlimited, a national nonprofit devoted to protecting watersheds where trout and salmon are found. Now its state director, she oversees teams that lead 20 projects aimed at conserving cold-water fisheries. Then, in 2023, Steen co-founded the Mountains of Color Film Festival to celebrate diversity in the filmmaking community. All those endeavors attracted the attention of Visit Jackson Hole, a tourism group that recently cast the 45-year-old in its Mountains of Youth campaign, which stars a disparate group of locals and promotes recreating in the outdoors as a way to keep people of all ages young at heart. Some people stop her to say they’ve seen her on social media, Steen says, “but most people recognize me from being on the trails with my husband and son, floating or wading the river, or swimming in the lakes.” —JM

JAIALDI

It’s been a decade since downtown Boise bustled with swordbearing ezpata dantza performers, aka roving street musicians shaking tambourinelike panderos. But this coming July 29 through August 3, the biggest Basque festival in the United States (and, with more than 30,000 attendees, one of the largest Basque celebrations outside of the region in today’s northern Spain, where the culture originates) is back after the quinquennial event’s COVID-19 cancellation in 2020. Known simply as Jaialdi, which translates to “big festival,” the nearly 40-year-old gathering offers a rare opportunity for Americans to experience the sacred Oñati Korpus, performed by elite Basque dancers during a Catholic Mass, and watch traditional herri kirolak competitions like stone lifting and wood chopping. Revelers can also munch on croquetas (fried balls of béchamel paste mixed with ham) and sip a kalimotxo, a drink that’s equal parts red wine and Coca-Cola. Jaialdi is more than an opportunity for general alaitasuna, or merrymaking, however—particularly for the 15,000 to 16,000 Boise residents of Basque descent, some of whose ancestors began herding sheep in the area in the mid-1800s. “Festival season in international Basque communities is the time to get back together,” says Lael Uberuaga-Rodgers, Jaialdi’s marketing and media chair. “This is a real homecoming.” —Courtney Holden

CORNER OFFICE

NM Chefs Zak Pelaccio and Jori Jayne Emde’s ingredient obsession extends to what they drink, which is why they opened New Mexico’s first natural wine bar in Taos in 2022. Demand for natural wines, made from organically or biodynamically cultivated grapes that have been processed with minimal intervention, is estimated to have doubled in the United States over the past five years. Still, the husband-and-wife duo know the natty trend can feel esoteric. “To diffuse the intimidation, we created a casual space with loud music and great food, where unruly beards and jeans are welcome,” Pelaccio says. Deep relationships with winemakers and importers allow them to stock a selection on par with what you’d find at natty bars in New York City, with a list of 85 to 125 bottles, priced between $42 and $2,000, that might include sips from cult producers like Austria’s Christian Tschida and France’s Domaine Ostertag. “It started as a purely selfish endeavor so we could drink the wines we love, but we’ve definitely filled a gap,” Emde says. —JM

WANDERLAND OUTDOORS

Bobby and Angel Massie may have met online—when the former, an offensive lineman for the Arizona Cardinals at the time, slid into the then Washington, D.C., TV journalist’s DMs—but they connected on trails and in bass-fishing boats. Then, in 2016, they visited Colorado. “We fell in love with the bucolic nature,” Angel says. They got married in Vail, bought a house in Larkspur, and became avid fly-fishers—all before Bobby joined the Denver Broncos in 2021. This past May, Bobby (now retired from the NFL) and Angel launched Wanderland Outdoors, an outfitter that leads fly-fishing, horseback riding, and meditative hiking excursions throughout the state. (For an extra $250 per adult, Bobby will come along as your chef. ) The couple’s mission is grander than providing high-end trips, though. As Black nature lovers, they had experienced the outdoor industry’s lack of diversity, which is why Wanderland made a point to hire guides who are Black, brown, white, Indigenous, and female. “We live in a world where people are different, and those different experiences enrich you,” Angel says. “The outdoor scene seems like the perfect place to bring people together.” —Spencer Campbell

THE ASTRONOMY DISCOVERY CENTER AT LOWELL OBSERVATORY

A vacation to outer space aboard Virgin Galactic is beyond most people’s budgets, but a trip to the Kemper and Ethel Marley Foundation Astronomy Discovery Center at Lowell Observatory can transport you out of this world (much more affordably, at $35 for adult admission). A decade in the making, the three-story, 40,000-square-foot facility debuted on November 16 and features interactive spaces, including a rooftop planetarium—with heated

seats and a dome that opens to Flagstaff’s famed dark skies—and a theater to rival the Sphere in Las Vegas, with its 25-foottall, 165-degree curved LED screen. The center, parts of which are open until 10 p.m., also includes exhibit galleries. Another building houses an opendeck observatory with six high-tech telescopes. “This is our crown jewel,” says Kevin Schindler, a historian for the 130-year-old Lowell Observatory. “There’s nothing like this in the world, and we’ve made sure it’s accessible to everyone.” —JM

GILA WILDERNESS

Although most people point to the 1964 Wilderness Act as the birth of our national wilderness system, its conceptual roots grow back 40 years prior. At a time when public land was perceived to have value only if it could be logged, grazed, or mined, Aldo Leopold, a then-unknown forest ranger in the remote wilds of southwest New Mexico, posed a radical idea—that the United States set aside significant acreage that should remain free from the works of man. His proposal gained traction, and in 1924, the U.S. Forest Service established the 560,000acre Gila Wilderness. Since then, the Gila, which spans territory as diverse as the Sonoran Desert and the spruce-covered, nearly 11,000-foot peaks of the Mogollon Mountains, has served as a living laboratory for everything from wildfire management to endangered species reintroduction. And now, recreationists have a new way to explore the stomping grounds of famed Chiricahua Apache leader Goyahkla (aka Geronimo): Unveiled this past summer, the Gila Centennial Trail is a 100mile loop that traverses some of the wildest country within the world’s first legally designated wilderness area. —M. John Fayhee

Sarah Banks

100 YEARS OF FILM & TELEVISION

What would the story of a dead-shot Sundance Kid be without a vast backdrop of sagebrush desert? Or Galaxy Quest without the showdown between Tim Allen and a rock monster in Goblin Valley State Park? These cinematic heavy hitters “lean into a sense of place,” says Virginia Pearce, director of the Utah Film Commission, so much so that “Utah almost became a character.” Filmmakers first recognized the Beehive State’s commanding presence in 1924, when silent Westerns spurred Utah’s eventual christening as Little Hollywood. In celebration of Utah’s century as America’s Film Set, follow one of the commission’s filmand-TV-inspired itineraries (available at visitutah.com). Expect to snap a selfie at Forrest Gump’s end-of-run point near Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, cannonball into Ogden’s Lorin Farr Community Pool a la Ham Porter of The Sandlot, fist-pump in front of High School Musical’s East High in Salt Lake City, or re-create another scene where a Utah background takes center stage. —CH

Clockwise from top left: Film locations and inspirations for Thelma & Louise; Independence Day; Stagecoach; John Carter; Forrest Gump; and Up

TIPPET RISE ART CENTER

MT A 12,500-acre sheep and cattle ranch in Fishtail, Montana, isn’t where you’d expect to encounter large-scale artworks by the likes of Alexander Calder, Louise Nevelson, and Ai Weiwei. But Tippet Rise Art Center, founded by philanthropists Cathy and Peter Halstead, has been defying expectations since it opened in 2016. Each summer, lucky visitors roam 15 miles of trails through an otherworldly dreamscape where sculpture, architecture, and classical music synergize. New this year, the world-class cultural institution’s offerings include concerts in the Geode (see page 6), a striking Arup-designed venue composed of four triangular acoustical shelters. Clustered in a natural bowl setting, the structures’ Douglas fir–clad interiors were treated with a traditional Japanese burn-and-brush technique that scatters high-frequency sound waves. “With the Geode, we sought to find a way to provide the resonance of an indoor concert hall while surrounded by a panorama of meadows and mountains,” Cathy says. Before you go, make sure the remote locale is expecting you: Concert tickets, just $10, are available via a drawing that begins in mid-March; limited slots for free hiking and biking reservations and van tours ($10) open in early April. —Laura Beausire

“Beethoven’s Quartet” by Mark di Suvero

BEAN PEAKS GRAVITY FLOW TRAILS

AZ If you’ve spent any time on trails in the West, you’ve probably seen hikers and mountain bikers exchange dirty looks (and may have even given some side-eye yourself). But it doesn’t have to be like that—at least, according to the groups that came together to develop the Bean Peaks Gravity Flow Trails in Prescott National Forest. Initially, plans for the $1.5 million bike-optimized trails were met with ire from hikers who just heard the word “bike.” But Robert Dal Santo, vice president of the Prescott Mountain Bike Alliance, and his team used town hall meetings and social media to

explain how the trails would also feature hiker-friendly portions, and soon the community embraced the idea. “Everyone shares the vision of making Prescott a recreational nirvana,” Dal Santo says. A four-year endeavor, the 9.2-mile network of rollers, berms, and technical rock features has been thrilling riders since it opened on May 31. A threemile uphill trail is open to hikers, while seven downhillonly trails were designed to accommodate adaptive bikes and are graded to challenge all experience levels. “If you’re a good rider, you don’t even need to touch your brakes,” Dal Santo says. “You can feel some g-force as the bike carves into a turn. It’s exhilarating.” Another 6.9 miles of trails are slated for completion this summer, and the final five miles should be finished by 2026. —JM

JOHNNY CURIEL

CO Opening his first solo restaurant, navigating a lawsuit, earning a Michelin star, and launching two more eateries: It’s been a heck of a year for Johnny Curiel, the chef/owner of Alma Fonda Fina, a spunky LoHi spot dedicated to leveled-up fare from his native Mexico. Just three months after opening in December 2023, he and his wife and business partner, Kasie Curiel, were hit with a lawsuit from her former employer alleging a violation of a noncompete. “I thought this was going to be the shortest run of any restaurant,” he says. A month later, they resolved the suit, but instead of exhaling, Curiel opened a sister restaurant in Boulder. Masa-focused Cozobi Fonda Fina is every bit as good as Alma Fonda Fina, with double the seats and its own menu (which includes the original’s nowiconic sweet potato small plate). Curiel closed out the year by debuting Mezcaleria Alma, a cocktail bar with sips like a huitlacoche martini and Mexico City–inspired bites, next-door to Alma Fonda Fina and, presumably, by taking a nap. —Allyson Reedy

SUNSHINE SPICE BAKERY & CAFE

ID Boise’s designation as a certified Welcoming City in 2019—the third municipality in the country to earn the status from nonprofit Welcome America—has made it a safe haven for thousands of immigrants and refugees. For many of them, like the Shams sisters, who escaped the oppression of the Taliban in Afghanistan, food is their best remaining connection to home. In 2019, the four siblings—Bahar, Homeyra, Narges, and Khatera (pictured, from left)—opened Sunshine Spice Bakery & Cafe, the city’s first Afghan eatery. Sunshine’s Middle Eastern–inspired dishes, like flaky pistachio baklava and bolani, an Afghani flatbread filled with potatoes and spice, earned a James Beard Foundation Award nomination in 2022. Then, in 2023, the bakery garnered more attention when Guy Fieri showcased its addictive savory beef dumplings and a traditional soup on his popular Food Network show. All that attention led the sisters to open a second location downtown this past summer. Although patrons rave about the strong Turkish coffee, the Shams are most proud of their saffron green tea. “Afghan women don’t have many options to work, other than to harvest saffron,” Homeyra says. “We import our saffron directly from Afghanistan and donate a portion of sales to help these women.” —JM m

CELEBRATE THE YEAR OF THE SNAKE, WHICH BEGINS NEXT MONTH, WITH A LUNAR NEW YEAR FEAST COURTESY OF MAKFAM’S KENNETH WAN AND DORIS YUEN.

GONG

CHOY

STORY BY PATRICIA KAOWTHUMRONG & ETHAN PAN

PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRIS SIMPSON • PROP STYLING BY NATALIE WARADY • FOOD STYLING BY VERONICA SPERA

GROWING UP ON THE EAST COAST,

Kenneth Wan and Doris Yuen rang in the Lunar New Year by attending big banquets, visiting family and friends, and collecting piles of hongbao (red envelopes filled with money, often gifted to children). Because Denver’s Asian community is much smaller than those found in Massachusetts and Rhode Island—where Wan and Yuen spent their childhoods, respectively, before meeting in New York City as adults—it’s even more important for the couple to find ways to share their Chinese American traditions with their three-year-old daughter, Autumn. “I want her to understand her culture, appreciate who she is, and grow up in an environment where she sees Chinese food and Asian culture being appreciated,” Yuen says. Showcasing their heritage through food is part of Wan and Yuen’s day-to-day lives as the owners of year-old, elevated fast-casual MAKfam in Baker, where they serve dishes inspired by their upbringings as the children

of Chinese immigrants. Visitors are welcome to enjoy the family-style fare—everything from corned beef fried rice to house-made chicken and chive dumplings—in the neon-accented dining room or take it back to their own kitchen tables to share. “I want to be a part of building a community for the people here to feel hope, to feel a sense of belonging,” Yuen says.

Lunar New Year, which was designated an official holiday in Colorado in 2023, honors the first new moon of the lunar calendar used in many countries across Asia and the rotation of the Chinese zodiac. At home, Wan and Yuen prepare meals packed with symbolism to mark the holiday. These lucky foods, including noodles, whole fish, and dumplings, are believed to invite happiness, good health, and affluence. In celebration of the upcoming Year of the Snake, Wan and Yuen encourage everyone to try out the following recipes—staples on their own Lunar New Year table.

VEGGIE SPRING ROLLS

Spring rolls, which resemble bricks of gold, are a symbol of prosperity. This Cantonese-style recipe uses spring roll skins that are thinner and crispier than those used for egg rolls. Look for them in the fresh and frozen aisles of Asian markets.

Makes about 18–20 spring rolls

10 oz. bean thread noodles

¼ cup canola oil

1 lb. shredded carrot

½ lb. chopped shiitake mushrooms

2 lb. shredded cabbage

1½ Tbsp. kosher salt

1½ Tbsp. vegetable bouillon powder

2½ Tbsp. light soy sauce

1 Tbsp. mushroom soy sauce

4 Tbsp. vegan oyster sauce

1 Tbsp. sesame oil

1 package spring roll wrappers

2 Tbsp. cornstarch

THE MENU

Veggie Spring Rolls page 54

Ho See Fat Choy page 57

Black Sesame Tong Yuen page 57

Whole Steamed Fish page 58

Longevity Noodles page 58

Hiss Hiss Bang Bang Cocktail page 61

Chicken Wontons page 61

From left: MAKfam’s Doris Yuen and Kenneth Wan; veggie spring rolls and chicken wontons

3 quarts canola oil, for frying Kosher salt (to taste) Plum sauce, for serving

1. In a bowl of warm water, soak the bean thread noodles for 30 minutes prior to cooking the recipe (don’t use hot water, which will make them mushy). Heat the canola oil in a large wok over medium-high heat and sweat the carrots and shiitake mushrooms until tender, about five minutes. Add the shredded cabbage and cook down for another three to four minutes, adding extra oil if the mixture looks dry.

2. Remove the pan from the heat and fold in the softened bean thread noodles. Season the mixture with salt, vegetable bouillon powder, light and mushroom soy sauces, oyster sauce, and sesame oil and mix well. Allow to cool before rolling the spring rolls.

3. Make a glue to seal the spring rolls by dissolving the cornstarch in two tablespoons of boiling water in a small bowl and set aside. To wrap the spring rolls, place the wrapper on a flat surface with a corner facing you. Place about a quarter cup of the filling about two inches from the corner. Fold the corner over and under the mixture (like a burrito). Then, fold in the two

corners on the left and right so they meet in the middle. Continue rolling the spring roll into a cigar shape. To seal the package, brush a little of the cornstarch mixture on the edges of the corner that’s farthest away from you.

4. To fry the spring rolls, heat two to three inches of canola oil to 350 degrees (check the temperature with a thermometer); fry the spring rolls in small batches until golden brown, about five minutes. Season with a sprinkling of salt to taste. Serve with plum sauce.

HO SEE FAT CHOY

Yuen and Wan’s rendition of this traditional Chinese dish starring fat choy (a silky, hairlike algae that is a symbol of wealth) uses dried oysters, bok choy, and shiitake mushrooms. If you can’t find oysters and black moss in the dried goods section of your Asian market, look for them online.

Serves 6–8

1 cup dried shiitake mushrooms

½ cup dried oysters

½ oz. Chinese black moss

½ lb. Shanghai bok choy, washed and quartered

½ cup canola oil

8 oz. boiled lotus root (about 1 cup)

1 Tbsp. oyster sauce

½ cup soy sauce

½ tsp. chicken bouillon powder

1 Tbsp. cornstarch

1. Place the dried shiitakes, oysters, and black moss separately into bowls of water and allow each ingredient to soak for about one hour. The mushrooms will plump up, and the black moss will double in size. In the meantime, blanch the bok choy to help the vegetable retain its color and texture.

2. Slice the shiitake mushrooms or leave them whole. In a large pot or Dutch oven, heat oil over medium-high heat; sear the shiitakes until light golden brown. Stir in the lotus root and continue to cook with mushrooms, one to two minutes.

3. Add in one quart of water along with the dried oysters, black moss, oyster and soy sauces, and chicken bouillon powder

From left: Ho see fat choy stars shiitakes and bok choy; black sesame tong yuen in a ginger syrup

and stir until well combined. Once boiling, reduce heat to a simmer and cook, covered, for about one hour. Fold the bok choy into the mixture. Make a slurry by mixing the cornstarch with one tablespoon of water; add it to the pot to thicken the sauce. Let the ho see fat choy simmer for two to three minutes, then remove it from the heat to avoid overcooking the ingredients.

BLACK SESAME TONG YUEN

Often served in a ginger syrup, these chewy, black-sesame-stuffed rice dumplings signify togetherness, good fortune, and prosperity. The most difficult part is getting the dough hydration right. If it’s too dry and the dough cracks while you’re folding the dumplings, try kneading a few drops of water into it. If it’s too wet and the mixture is too sticky to handle, work it without adding water, which lets some of the moisture evaporate.

Serves 6–8

For the filling:

1 cup black sesame paste

1 cup sugar

For the ginger syrup:

2 cups sugar

3 cups water

1 2-inch knob of ginger, peeled and sliced

For the dough:

3 cups glutinous rice flour

1½ cups warm water

Canola oil, for greasing your hands

1. Make the filling by mixing the black sesame paste and sugar in a bowl. Place in the fridge so it’s easier to handle later.

2. Make the ginger syrup by adding the sugar, water, and ginger to a pot and bringing it to a boil. Turn the heat off and set aside.

3. Make the dough by placing the rice flour into a bowl and slowly adding the water while mixing well. Knead until the dough is in one smooth ball.

4. Grease your hands lightly with oil. Take a tablespoon-size portion of the dough and flatten it between your hands until it’s around two inches in diameter, with the edges slightly thinner than the center. Add a half tablespoon of the chilled filling to the center of the dough and close the dough over the filling. Gently roll the dumpling between your palms to make a neat ball, and set aside. Repeat to make the rest of the dumplings, keeping the dough covered between uses to prevent it from drying out.

5. Bring a pot of water to a boil over high heat while rewarming the ginger syrup. Drop the tong yuen into the boiling water while continuously

stirring to prevent sticking. Cook for two to three minutes, taste for doneness (the dumpling should have a silky texture), then drain with a slotted spoon and serve in bowls with ginger syrup, to taste.

WHOLE STEAMED FISH

Whole fish, a symbol of abundance, is eaten during Lunar New Year in hopes of ushering in a year filled with prosperity—and delicious food. If you don’t have a pot large enough to accommodate your fish, you can use a bamboo steamer. Ask your fishmonger to clean, descale, and score your tilapia crosswise, which will help it cook evenly and soak up flavor.

Serves 6–8

1½–2 lb. whole tilapia, cleaned, descaled and scored crosswise

1 Tbsp. salt

2 tsp. white pepper

¼ cup cooking wine

¼ cup light soy sauce

¼ cup scallions, chopped

¼ cup cilantro leaves

1 1- to 2-inch knob of ginger, peeled and sliced into matchsticks

½ cup canola oil

1. Season the exterior and interior cavity of the tilapia with salt, white pepper, cooking wine, and light soy sauce on a large, heat-proof plate. Put a steamer rack inside a lidded pot, such as a wok or Dutch oven, big enough that the plate with the fish will fit inside.

2. Fill your pot with just enough water (about one to two inches) to cover the steamer rack, then carefully place the plate with the fish on top and bring the water to a boil over medium-high heat. Put the lid on and let the tilapia steam for 12 minutes. Remove the plate from the pot and garnish the fish with scallions, cilantro, and ginger.

3. In a small pot, heat the canola oil over medium-high heat until it shimmers or you see wisps of smoke (three to five minutes). Pour the hot oil over the fish.

4. Finish with a dash of light soy sauce to taste, and serve immediately.

LONGEVITY NOODLES

From left: Yuen sets the table for a Lunar New Year feast; the whole steamed fish

E-fu noodles (also known as yi mian) represent longevity in Chinese culture and traditionally should not be broken before consumption. You can find the noodles, which are fried until crispy and come as a dry brick, at Great Wall Supermarket in the Athmar Park neighborhood.

Serves 6–8

1 package (200 grams) e-fu noodles

3 Tbsp. canola oil

2 cups shiitake mushrooms, stalks trimmed and cut into ¼-inch slices

6 Tbsp. light soy sauce

4 tsp. sesame oil

1 ½ tsp. chicken bouillon powder

1 bunch scallions, sliced (just the green ends)

1. In a large pot, bring three quarts of water to a boil. Place the e-fu noodles into the water and cook for four to five minutes, stirring occasionally, until they are separated and soft. Strain the noodles.

2. Meanwhile, in a large skillet or wok, heat the canola oil over medium-high heat. Stir-fry the shiitake mushrooms until lightly golden brown, around two to three minutes.

3. Add the drained noodles, light soy sauce, sesame oil, and chicken bouillon powder, and mix well. Garnish with the scallions.

HISS HISS BANG BANG COCKTAIL

In honor of the upcoming Year of the Snake, MAKfam bar manager Grace Tomczak crafted this tangy, subtly floral sipper. The drink is red, an auspicious color in Chinese culture, thanks to the addition of hibiscus tea, which you can buy at many natural food stores or online. To make the lychee syrup, blend one 15- to 20-ounce can of drained lychees with equal parts water and sugar and strain.

Makes 1 drink

1½ oz. vodka

½ oz. vermouth bianco

¾ oz. lemon juice

1 oz. lychee syrup

10 drops rice vinegar

2 oz. hibiscus tea, for topping

Mint sprigs and lychee candy, for garnish

1. Shake the first five ingredients with ice.

2. Strain into a 10- to 14-ounce Collins glass filled with fresh ice, top with the hibiscus tea, and garnish with mint sprigs and lychee candy.

CHICKEN WONTONS

To make these wontons shaped like gold ingots, Wan and Yuen source their wrappers from Kwan San Noodle Company, a Denver-based brand

From left: Oilslicked longevity noodles; MAKfam’s auspiciously red cocktail

available at many local Asian markets. They also recommend the Twin Marquis brand, which produces thinner Hong Kong–style and thicker Shanghai-style wonton skins. Any of the above will work for this recipe.

Makes around 40 wontons

1 lb. minced chicken breast or thigh meat

½ tsp. white pepper

1 tsp. chicken bouillon powder

1 tsp. MSG

1 tsp. sesame oil

1 Tbsp. sugar

1 Tbsp. salt

2 Tbsp. light soy sauce

1 Tbsp. oyster sauce

1 whole egg, beaten

1–2 packs of wonton wrappers (40 to 50 skins)

1. Combine all of the ingredients except the wrappers in a mixing bowl. Mix well using a spatula, or gently massage the mixture with your hands. Place the filling in a medium bowl and set aside.

2. Create a wonton folding station that includes a small bowl of water, a large plate or baking dish with flour sprinkled on top (to hold wrapped wontons until they’re cooked), and the bowl of wonton filling placed in a larger bowl of ice.

3. Place a wonton wrapper in the palm of your hand and put about a half tablespoon of the meat filling in the center of the wonton wrapper. (Don’t use too much meat, or the wontons will be difficult to fold and seal properly.)

4. Dab a finger in the small bowl of water and wet all four edges of the

ORDER

Forty years ago, a pair of Denver reporters uncovered the origins of a white supremacist network responsible for the headline-grabbing murder of a well-known local radio host. A new movie based on their book recalls the events that led to the killing—and the rise of far-right extremism.

BY CHRIS WALKER PHOTO ILLUSTRATION BY SEAN PARSONS

Clockwise from top: Denver radio host Alan Berg; Rocky Mountain News reporter Kevin Flynn; the Order leader Robert Jay Mathews

APARAZZI CAMERAS FLASHED.

Movie stars posed. Slowly, the 1,032-seat Sala Grande theater filled during the 81st annual Venice International Film Festival this past August. It was night four of one of the most prestigious gatherings in cinema, and all the beautiful people had been ferried to the island of Lido to watch the world premiere of The Order, a thriller starring Jude Law and Nicholas Hoult. Shortly after 9:30 p.m., the lights inside the historical Palazzo del Cinema di Venezia dimmed, and the crowd hushed.

Seated a few rows behind Law in an understated gray suit, Kevin Flynn was a man out of his element. The 72-year-old normally dresses for Denver City Council meetings, where, with his signature comb-shaped mustache and wave of gray hair, Flynn is known as the resident skeptic, posing difficult questions to his peers about proposed tax hikes or development plans. So dedicated is the avowed policy wonk to municipal administration that he only allowed himself to miss two committee meetings to rub shoulders with the glitterati in Venice.

The trip had been worth the truancies. He stayed in a waterfront hotel overlooking the Venetian Lagoon. He drank wine with Law, with whom he’s now on a first-name basis. He took a water taxi to feast at Harry’s Dulci, a famous white-tablecloth restaurant on the island of Giudecca, during a private dinner with Hollywood producers. If he’d been in Denver, he’d probably have been answering emails from his constituents in southwest Denver about things like downsizing their compost carts. (This would, in fact, be Flynn’s first order of business upon returning

events were familiar. Forty years earlier, long before he entered politics, Flynn had been a city hall reporter when one of the most notorious murders in Denver history had drawn him into the world of white supremacy. He and Gary Gerhardt, his friend and partner at the Rocky Mountain News, spent years investigating the organization that engineered the high-profile killing. The Order, in theaters on December 6, is based on the revelations in their 1989 book, The Silent Brotherhood (which Simon & Schuster is reissuing under the same title as the movie on December 3).

So, Flynn had taken a small break from tax proposals and constituent emails to see his words brought to life in Venice. But amid the pomp and celebration, Flynn couldn’t help but remember Gerhardt, who died in 2015. Flynn was only there—next to the Adriatic, feet away from Jude Law—because of the work they’d done, together, to uncover the roots of a particularly violent offshoot of far-right extremism. “Gary always said it would make a great movie,” Flynn says.

JUNE 18, 1984, began like any other Monday for Alan Berg. The popular radio host rose early in his Congress Park apartment and started scanning the morning’s headlines for material. He quickly found an enticing mark: Pope John Paul II had recently declared that sex for pleasure’s sake was sinful.

in his native Chicago. He moved to Denver after retiring from his law practice in the late 1960s, accidentally finding his way to talk radio in 1975 when a friend at a small station in Englewood invited him on air one Sunday to chat with callers. Despite being delivered in a high-pitched, nasally voice, Berg’s opinions on such hot-button topics as abortion and religion lit up the switchboard. The station soon offered him his own show. By 1981, Berg had graduated to Denver’s largest

talk radio station, KOA, which had an evening broadcast that sometimes reached 38 states.

“I stick it to the audience, and they love it,” Berg said of his antagonistic style. “They can’t stand me, man, but they sneak back and listen because they don’t know what I’m gonna do next, and they want to be there…. Compared to what goes on in Denver, I’m damned exciting.” His June 18 program cast the usual bait: “Does it say anywhere in the Bible that you couldn’t have pleasure while you’re having sex?” he teased his Catholic listeners.

Whenever a caller challenged him too effectively, Berg would hang up. That way, he always won his arguments. His politics leaned extremely progressive. “His main thing was that he talked a lot about racism,” says Josh Mattison, who, along with producer Shannon Geis, recently released a four-part podcast about Berg called The Order of Death. Mattison says Berg was a vehement anti-racist and, as a Jew, routinely called out antisemitism. Berg sometimes invited bigots onto his show so he could thrash them live. “Whoa—we have got a lot of antisemitism cookin’ here,” Berg said on one of his shows. “You can smell it in each one of these callers.”

After Berg signed off at 1 p.m. on June 18, he ran a few errands in Cherry Creek and then met his ex-wife, Judith Berg, for dinner. Berg returned to his home on Adams Street just after 9 p.m. He steered his Volkswagen Beetle into the driveway, then ducked his famous mop top under the coupe’s low door frame to get out.

At that moment, a man approached and opened fire with a MAC-10 pistol that had been illegally modified into a fully automatic weapon. Shooting .45-caliber rounds, the firearm was—as some reporters would later call it—a meat grinder. A dozen lead slugs sent Berg twisting to the pavement, where he landed on his back. The assailant fled to a waiting getaway car.

When he realized who the victim was, Don Mulnix, investigative division chief for the Denver Police Department (DPD), called every detective on the clock to the scene immediately. Mulnix knew the murder of a controversial radio host would be a huge story; he ordered his detectives to avoid public channels on their radios so that newsrooms couldn’t pick up their communications on police scanners. But the sudden silence essentially sent up a giant flare. Television vans beelined to Congress Park in time to lead their 10 p.m. newscasts with Berg’s death. As word spread, every media outlet in

From left: Gary Gerhardt and Kevin Flynn in 1989; their book reissue; Flynn in October

This spread, from left: Courtesy of Kevin Flynn; Courtesy of Simon and Shuster; Daniel J. Brenner

was the only journalist to locate Berg’s private graveside service in Chicago. The reporter stayed a polite 25 feet away from the proceedings, earning the appreciation of Berg’s family members, some of whom agreed to be interviewed.

Flynn collaborated on the Berg coverage with one of the newsroom’s more seasoned journalists, Gary Gerhardt. The police reporter was a big presence at the Rocky: Standing six feet, five inches tall, with a hulking frame, beard, and booming voice, Gerhardt was open and friendly but commanded respect—including from his law enforcement sources. In the days following the murder, Gerhardt pressed the police for potential suspects. The radio host had been so divisive, however, that one DPD detective simply gestured to a Denver phone book. “All of them,” he told Gerhardt.

But homicide investigators didn’t think Berg’s murder was a random killing. Although no one had claimed responsibility, there were telltale signs—the sophisticated weaponry, the Jewish target—that suggested the work of right-wing terrorists. In fact, police soon began getting tips about Klan-affiliated suspects who were angry with Berg over the radio host’s role in shutting down the Primrose and Cattlemen’s Gazette. The year before, the Fort Lupton newspaper had published a six-part, virulently antisemitic series called “Open Letter to the Goyim.” Berg used his show to criticize the outlet, which was forced to close after its advertisers fled due to the controversy.

By the end of the summer, most of the Rocky’s reporters had returned to their regular beats, but Flynn, Gerhardt, and a young journalist named John Accola continued to break news about the Berg investigation. Developments came fast. In October, FBI agents raided a home in Sandpoint, Idaho, in pursuit of a person connected to the heist of an armored car along a forested highway in Northern California. The man, Gary Lee Yarbrough, escaped, but the bureau recovered the MAC-10 used to kill Berg. The hunt for Yarbrough eventually led the FBI to Robert Jay Mathews, who was believed to be the ringleader of a larger neo-Nazi group. In December, agents cornered Mathews inside a safehouse on an island off the coast of Washington state. He refused to surrender and shot at federal agents. The FBI lit the house on fire in an attempt to smoke Mathews out, but he died in the blaze. Agents discovered a gold medallion melted into the charred remains of Mathews’ chest cavity. It had once spelled out “Bruders Schweigan”—German for the Silent Brotherhood.

lines and dumping cyanide into the water supply; its lengthy list of assassination targets included Henry Kissinger, the former U.S. secretary of state. The group’s ultimate goal was to create a “White American Bastion”—a five-state region including Washington, Oregon, Idaho, Montana, and Wyoming—that would secede from the United States before eventually toppling the entire federal government.

As outlandish as the Order’s plans sounded, its pursuit of them had led to murders, a bank robbery, counterfeit operations, numerous bombings, and the heist of the armored car, which netted the organization approximately $3.8 million. What puzzled Flynn and Gerhardt most was the radicalization of its members. For example, Berg’s killer, who was finally arrested in March 1985, had moved from Kentucky to Montana after becoming obsessed with race-based Christian theology. How, the reporters wondered, had these seemingly average Americans become involved in a savagely racist group that was responsible for so much violence?

Flynn and Gerhardt decided to pursue a book to answer that question. “We got a $15,000 advance,” Flynn says, “and we spent it all on research.” Over the next two years, the duo traveled across the country interviewing white supremacists, jailed domestic terrorists, and their family members. (One

In April 1985, a federal grand jury in Seattle charged 24 people connected to the Silent Brotherhood—also known as the Order—for racketeering and criminal conspiracy. Flynn traveled to Seattle for seven weeks to cover the trial, often jumping on the phone to give Gerhardt updates and new suspects to research. After writing about a suspected member of the Order, Flynn received a call from an FBI agent who informed him that the man had threatened Flynn’s life. The fed advised him to regularly check underneath the hood of his car for bombs. “I don’t like to talk about that,” Flynn says today. With Flynn in Seattle and Gerhardt continuing to look for leads in Denver, it emerged in courtroom testimony that Mathews had indeed been the leader of a racist militia based in the Pacific Northwest. Although another member of the Brotherhood, Bruce Pierce, killed Berg, Mathews had ordered

hoped to incite a race war in Los Angeles by bombing power

From top: Stills from The Order, which stars Nicholas Hoult as neo-Nazi ringleader Robert Jay Mathews and Jude Law as FBI agent Terry Husk

particularly memorable reporting trip took them to an Aryan Nations compound in Idaho, where they had to drive through a barbed wire gate, under an armed watchtower.) Back in Denver, they split tasks: reviewing thousands of pages of court documents, outlining chapters. Because both still worked full time at the Rocky, they often stayed up until 2 or 3 a.m. working on chapters and sending the drafts to each other over an early version of the internet.

Eventually, an answer emerged. “The Silent Brotherhood was an inevitable outgrowth of the increasingly angry level of rhetoric and accompanying frustration on the far right,” the authors wrote in their book’s prologue. “These white males saw themselves as targets of all other empowerment movements, from women’s liberation to black power to gay pride…. They stared squarely into the prospect of being the first generation of Americans not to be economically better off than their parents… and inflamed by Mathews’ call to arms and inspired by his fervor, they joined him in a conspiracy they believed, with stupefying confidence, would deliver Armageddon to America’s doorstep.”

The Silent Brotherhood came out to positive reviews (and modest sales) in 1989. The authors seemed to have identified a powder keg of discontent beneath the surface of white, male America—one that was threatening to explode if disregarded. “Flynn and Gerhardt have written a book that is essential reading for every American,” the Los Angeles Times wrote in its review. “It is a work we cannot ignore if, as a nation, we hope to survive this century.”

NEARLY 30 YEARS later, in 2017, white supremacists descended on Charlottesville, Virginia, for the Unite the Right

Rally, shouting xenophobic chants such as “You will not replace us!” A neo-Nazi killed a counter-protester by running her over with his car. Despite then President Donald Trump saying there were “very fine people on both sides,” the rally disturbed many Americans, including Zach Baylin. Of particular concern to the emerging screenwriter? The racists wore normcore clothing (polo shirts and khakis); they didn’t feel the need to hide their faces behind white sheets anymore.

Baylin had already been researching the roots of far-right domestic terrorist movements, which led him to the 1995 bombing of the Alfred P. Murrah Federal Building in Oklahoma City. The perpetrator of that attack, Baylin learned, was inspired by a novel called The Turner Diaries, which spins a racist fairy tale about a white nationalist militia’s takeover of the U.S. government. The same book, Baylin later discovered, also influenced a group in the 1980s called the Order—the organization that killed Alan Berg.

Baylin was familiar with Berg. He’d seen Oliver Stone’s 1988 film Talk Radio, which was based on a one-man play and originally inspired by Talked to Death, a book about Berg written by former Denver Post reporter Stephen Singular. Baylin also had a personal connection to Berg: His wife, Kate Susman, a writer and his producing partner, grew up in Denver and was family friends with Berg’s ex-wife. (Susman’s dad even bought a yellow Porsche convertible that Berg had once owned.) Moreover, Susman’s mom, Mary Beth Susman, had served on the Denver City Council with a former reporter who covered Berg’s murder—Kevin Flynn. A film adaptation of Flynn and Gerhardt’s book “felt meant to be,” Susman says. Flynn received an email inquiry about optioning The Silent Brotherhood in 2017. The prospect of The Order getting green-lit by a studio got a major boost five years later when Baylin’s King Richard, starring Will Smith, earned the writer an Academy Award nomination. On its face, The Order is a cops-and-robbers nail-biter. But it also has a through line that Susman calls “terrifyingly relevant.” In perhaps the film’s most disturbing scene, Hoult (playing Mathews) stands before a room full of white Christians and declares, “I know how you feel: You’ve lost your jobs. Your dignity. I watched my father get knocked down again and again, and he never fought back.” The crowd roars at the end of the speech, chanting, “White power!”

The ease with which regular Americans—upset by economic insecurities, shifting cultural values, and conspiracy theories—can tip over into extremism also influenced Josh Mattison’s decision to produce his podcast about Berg. “This isn’t just a story about a guy who was murdered in 1984,” Mattison says. “This is a story about an ideology that just will not go away.” And, of course, the internet has made it even easier for fringe conspiracies and hateful ideologies to infect

Dining Gu ide

SYMBOL KEY

Indicates a restaurant featured in 5280 for the first time (though not necessarily a restaurant that has just opened).

Indicates inclusion in 5280’s 2024 list of Denver’s best restaurants. These selections are at the discretion of 5280 editors and are subject to change.

ACE EAT SERVE

BACON SOCIAL HOUSE

Littleton / Contemporary This fun, casual restaurant’s beloved namesake ingredient is at the forefront of many of its dishes. Multiple locations. Reservations accepted. 2100 W. Littleton Blvd., Littleton, 720-750-7107. Breakfast, Lunch, Brunch

BAEKGA

$$$

Uptown / Asian This Uptown restaurant and pingpong hall features Asian-inspired cuisine and 10 ping-pong tables. Try the Sichuan shrimp wontons. Reservations accepted. 501 E. 17th Ave., 303-800-7705. Dinner, Brunch

AFRICAN GRILL & BAR

Lakewood / African Explore a bevy of dishes from across Africa at this warm and inviting restaurant run by the Osei-Fordwuo family. Peanut soups, samosas, and jollof rice are just some of the craveworthy options available here. Reservations accepted. 955 S. Kipling Parkway, Lakewood, 303985-4497. Lunch, Dinner

ALMA FONDA FINA

LoHi / Mexican This contemporary Mexican restaurant wows with its creative, shareable plates, which often feature homemade masa and flavor-packed salsas. The camote asado (roasted sweet potato) is an excellent way to start off your meal. Reservations accepted. 2556 15th St., 303-455-9463. Dinner

ANNETTE

CARNE

$$$

Lowry Field / Korean Chef-owner Sean Baek serves flavorful Korean eats at this quaint Lowry Town Center spot. Don’t miss out on the lunch specials: hearty portions of protein and rice that come with plenty of banchan (side dishes). Reservations not accepted. 100 Quebec St., Suite 115, 720-639-3872. Lunch, Dinner

BÁNH & BUTTER BAKERY CAFE

Aurora / French Thoa Nguyen crafts French pastries inspired by her Vietnamese heritage at this East Colfax cafe. Go for the dazzling crêpe cakes, each made with 25 to 30 layers. Reservations not accepted. 9935 E. Colfax Ave., Aurora, 720-5139313. Breakfast, Lunch

BECKON

$$$$

RiNo / Contemporary Chef Duncan Holmes brings an elevated, intimate dining experience to Larimer Street. The seasonal menu changes frequently, and excellent, thoughtful wine pairings are available. Reservations accepted. 2843 Larimer St., 303-749-0020. Dinner

BLACKBELLY

$$$

Aurora / American James Beard Award–winning chef Caroline Glover’s Annette delivers a lineup of seasonal salads, pastas, wood-fired proteins, and other comforting bites in a modern, inviting space. Reservations accepted. 2501 Dallas St., Suite 108, Aurora, 720-710-9975. Dinner

ARABESQUE

$$$

Boulder / American Chef Hosea Rosenberg’s carnivore-friendly menu focuses on charcuterie, small plates, and daily butcher specials. Try the koji-cured heritage pork chop. Also check out the adjacent butcher shop and market, which serves breakfast and lunch. Reservations accepted. 1606 Conestoga St., Boulder, 303-247-1000. Dinner

BLUE PAN PIZZA

Boulder / Mediterranean Sip house-made chai and sample Middle Eastern delights in this charming spot. Reservations not accepted. 1634 Walnut St., Boulder, 720-242-8623. Breakfast, Lunch

ASH’KARA

$$$$

RiNo / Steak House The newest restaurant from chef Dana Rodriguez, this “steak home” grills exquisite cuts of beef at a range of price points. Also explore its internationally inspired menu of shared plates and composed entrées. Reservations accepted. 2601 Larimer St., 303-953-1558. Dinner

CARRERA’S TACOS

$ Greenwood Village / Mexican Brothers Josh and Ryan Carrera sling West Coast–style tacos at this food truck turned brick-and-mortar. Try the Cali burrito, stuffed with french fries and your choice of protein. Reservations not accepted. 7939 E. Arapahoe Road, Greenwood Village, 720-689-8035. Lunch, Dinner

CHOLON

$$$

LoDo / Asian This upscale restaurant serves modern twists on Pan-Asian cuisine. Don’t miss the French onion soup dumplings. Also try the location near Sloan’s Lake. Reservations accepted. 1555 Blake St., 303-353-5223. Lunch, Dinner

CHOOK

$$ Platt Park / Australian Chook specializes in Australian-style, charcoal-grilled rotisserie chicken and fresh veggie sides, like celery-apple slaw and smashed cucumbers. Multiple locations. Reservations not accepted. 1300 S. Pearl St., 303-2828399. Lunch, Dinner

CONVIVIO CAFÉ

$ Berkeley / Cafe This cafe is named after the Guatemalan convivio, a get-together where all are welcome. Sip on spiced lattes and indulge in pastries and light lunch fare, such as alfajores (dulce de leche cookies) and tostadas. Reservations not accepted. 4935 W. 38th Ave. Breakfast, Lunch

West Highland / Pizza Masterfully crafted Detroit-style pizza is the draw at this tiny spot. Try the Brooklyn Bridge, topped with pepperoni, Italian sausage, and ricotta and Romano cheeses. Also try the Congress Park location. Reservations not accepted. 3930 W. 32nd Ave., 720-456-7666. Lunch, Dinner

$$$

LoHi / Middle Eastern Chef Daniel Asher offers a playful take on Middle Eastern cuisine at this plant-bedecked eatery. Order the falafel and a shareable tagine. Reservations accepted. 2005 W. 33rd Ave., 303-537-4407. Dinner, Brunch

AVANTI FOOD & BEVERAGE

LoHi / International Current tenants of this food collective include Gorlami Pizza, Bowls by Ko, Quiero Arepas, Knockabout Burgers, and Pho King Rapidos. 3200 Pecos St., 720-269-4778. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

BRASSERIE BRIXTON

$$$$

Cole / French Pair the likes of steak frites, pâté with house-baked sourdough, and other comforting French specialties with a glass of wine at this neighborhood bistro. Reservations accepted. 3701 N. Williams St., 720-617-7911. Dinner

CAFE BRAZIL

$$$

Berkeley / Latin American This colorful South American restaurant specializes in seafood and shellfish and is great for those with dietary restrictions. Reservations accepted. 4408 Lowell Blvd., 303-480-1877. Dinner

DAUGHTER THAI KITCHEN & BAR

$$$ LoHi / Thai This date-night-ready Thai restaurant from Ounjit Hardacre serves beautifully plated dishes and inventive cocktails with an elegant ambience to match. Reservations accepted. 1700 Platte St., Suite 140, 720-667-4652. Lunch, Dinner

DÂN DÃ

Aurora / Vietnamese Time-tested family recipes delight at An and Thao Nguyen’s Vietnamese eatery dedicated to comfort food. Don’t miss the dazzling spring roll towers and bubbling clay pots. Reservations accepted. 9945 E. Colfax Ave., Aurora, 720-476-7183. Lunch, Dinner

DEL FRISCO’S GRILLE

$$$$ Cherry Creek / Contemporary A more casual iteration of the beloved steak house, this venue serves up classic dishes with modern twists and local ingredients. Don’t miss the cheese steak egg rolls. Reservations accepted. 100 St. Paul St., Suite 140, 303-320-8529. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

DENVER MILK MARKET

LoDo / International Sage Hospitality’s 11-venue collection of bars and restaurants features everything from fresh pasta to poke bowls to lobster rolls. 1800 Wazee St., 303-792-8242. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

DIMESTORE DELIBAR

Ethiopian fare at this eclectic collective of nearly two dozen food stalls and boutiques. 5505 W. 20th Ave., Edgewater, 720-749-2239. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

EFRAIN’S OF BOULDER

LoHi / American This restaurant, bar, convenience store, and market serves elevated deli fare in an eclectic setting. Try the rolled focaccia sandwiches. Reservations accepted. 1575 Boulder St., Suite A, 303-537-5323. Lunch, Dinner

DOUGH COUNTER

FARM & MARKET

Boulder / Mexican This classic institution in Boulder is known for its lively atmosphere, low prices, and massive bowls of pork green chile. Reservations not accepted. 2480 Canyon Blvd., Boulder, 303-440-4045. Lunch, Dinner

EL FIVE

University Hills / Pizza This fast-casual pizzeria specializes in Sicilian- and New York–style pies. For the former, we especially like the Triple Threat, which is striped with marinara, pesto, and vodka sauces. The house-made chicken tenders are also delightful. Reservations not accepted. 2466 S. Colorado Blvd., 303-997-8977. Lunch, Dinner

DRAGONFLY NOODLE

LoDo / Asian This eatery from restaurateur Edwin Zoe serves a multinational variety of bao and noodle dishes. Order any of the bowls of ramen with house-made noodles. Also try the Boulder location. Reservations not accepted. 1350 16th Street Mall, 720-543-8000. Lunch, Dinner

EDGEWATER PUBLIC MARKET

Edgewater / International Satisfy your cravings for everything from wild game sandwiches to

$$$

LoHi / Mediterranean Justin Cucci’s fifth Edible Beats concept boasts panoramic views, a menu of creative tapas, and Spanish-style gin and tonics. Reservations accepted. 2930 Umatilla St., 303-524-9193. Dinner

EL TACO DE MEXICO

Lincoln Park / Mexican This Denver favorite, which won an America’s Classics Award from the James Beard Foundation in 2020, serves Mexican food with an emphasis on authenticity. Try the chile relleno burrito. Reservations not accepted. 714 Santa Fe Drive, 303-623-3926. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

ELWAY’S

$$$$

Downtown / Steak House This sleek restaurant named after the Broncos great serves classic steak house fare in upscale environs. Reservations accepted. 1881 Curtis St., 303-312-3107. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

RiNo / Health This 3,000-square-foot hydroponic farm sells its grown-in-water greens and also transforms them into grab-and-go salads and soups. Reservations not accepted. 2401 Larimer St., 303-927-6652. Lunch, Dinner

FARMHOUSE THAI EATERY

$$ Lakewood / Thai This cozy spot offers flavorful specialties from multiple regions, including papaya pok pok and khao kha moo. Reservations not accepted. 98 Wadsworth Blvd., Suite 117, Lakewood, 303-237-2475. Lunch, Dinner

FISH N BEER

$$$ RiNo / Seafood Kevin Morrison offers approachable, fresh seafood and a hearty beer list at this casual oysterette. Try the ceviche or wood-fired whole bass. Reservations accepted. 3510 Larimer St., 303-248-3497. Dinner

FLAGSTAFF HOUSE

$$$$

Boulder / Contemporary Located on the side of Flagstaff Mountain, this eatery has a huge wine list and a spectacular view of Boulder. Try the foie gras. Reservations accepted. 1138 Flagstaff Road, Boulder, 303-442-4640. Dinner

FRANK & ROZE

Hale / Cafe This stylish cafe serves sustainably sourced coffee from South America, Africa, Asia, and beyond. Try the breakfast sandwiches. Reservations not accepted. 4097 E. Ninth Ave., 720328-2960. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

(Closed Nov. 28 and Dec. 25) Tickets must be purchased in advance. Get tickets and full details at botanicgardens.org a

NOVEMBER 20 – JANUARY 12

FRASCA FOOD AND WINE

$$$$

Boulder / Italian The elegant fare at Frasca, an ode to the cuisine of Friuli–Venezia Giulia in Italy from master sommelier Bobby Stuckey and chef Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson, always wows. Splurge on executive chef Ian Palazzola’s ninecourse Friulano menu. Reservations accepted. 1738 Pearl St., Boulder, 303-442-6966. Dinner

G-QUE BBQ

Westminster / Barbecue This fast-casual joint serves award-winning hickory-smoked pork, brisket, ribs, and more. Multiple locations. Reservations not accepted. 5160 W. 120th Ave., Suite K, Westminster, 303-379-9205. Lunch, Dinner

THE GREENWICH

$$$

RiNo / Pizza Restaurateur Delores Tronco brings a slice of her favorite New York City neighborhood to RiNo. Reservations accepted. 3258 Larimer St., 720-868-5006. Dinner

GUARD AND GRACE

$$$$

Downtown / Steak House Chef Troy Guard’s modern steak house offers a chic setting for its elevated fare. Reservations accepted. 1801 California St., 303-293-8500. Lunch, Dinner

HEY KIDDO

$$$$

Berkeley / Contemporary From the team behind the Wolf’s Tailor and Brutø, this eclectic, globally inspired restaurant presents fine dining fare in relaxed environs. Reservations accepted. 4337 Tennyson St., Suite 300, 720-778-2977. Dinner

HOP ALLEY

$$$$

RiNo / Chinese From Tommy Lee of Uncle, this neighborhood hangout’s daily menu is composed of dishes rooted in Chinese tradition with a distinctive flair. Don’t miss the exclusive chef’s counter experience. Reservations accepted. 3500 Larimer St., 720-379-8340. Dinner

INDIA’S RESTAURANT

Hampden / Indian This spot serves traditional fare, including flavorful dishes like tandoori chicken. Take advantage of the lunch buffet. Reservations accepted. 8921 E. Hampden Ave., 303-755-4284. Lunch, Dinner

ISTANBUL CAFE & BAKERY

Washington Virginia Vale / Middle Eastern Friendly owner Ismet Yilmaz prepares authentic Turkish pastries. Multiple locations. Reservations not accepted. 850 S. Monaco Parkway., Suite 9, 720-787-7751. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

IZAKAYA DEN

Platt Park / Japanese Ultra-fresh sushi, sashimi, and creative small plates are on the menu at this local favorite. Reservations accepted. 1487-A S. Pearl St., 303-777-0691. Lunch, Dinner

JAX FISH HOUSE & OYSTER BAR

KAWA NI

$$$$

LoHi / Asian Connecticut transplant Bill Taibe helms this upscale izakaya concept in LoHi. Peruse the eclectic menu of noodles, sushi, and small plates, and don’t miss the shaved broccoli miso goma. Reservations accepted. 1900 W. 32nd Ave., 303-455-9208. Dinner

KIKÉ’S RED TACOS

LoHi / Mexican This brick-and-mortar location of the popular Mexican food truck is known for its queso tacos, which come stuffed with cheese and your choice of meat. Doctor up your order with the rainbow of sauces at the salsa bar. Reservations not accepted. 1200 W. 38th Ave., 720-3970591. Lunch, Dinner

KUMOYA JAPANESE KITCHEN

$$$

Highland / Asian Seasoned sushi maker and chef

Corey Baker serves rare-in-Denver nigiri and dryaged fish in a cozy, romantic setting. Don’t miss the sandoitchi: a milk bread sandwich with chicken thigh katsu and Japanese curry egg salad. Reservations accepted. 2400 W. 32nd Ave., 303-8626664. Dinner

LA FORÊT

$$$

LoDo / Seafood Enjoy sustainable seafood in an upbeat atmosphere. Specialties include the raw oyster bar and seasonally composed plates. Multiple locations. Reservations accepted. 1539 17th St., 303-292-5767. Dinner

$$$$

Speer / French Transport yourself to the forest at this cocktail-centric French restaurant decorated with floor-to-ceiling aspen trunks. Head in during pastis hour to sample the anise-flavored apéritif with small plates, or dine on dishes like stag au poivre or rabbit vadouvan. Reservations not accepted. 38 S. Broadway, 303-351-7938. Dinner

fly to TAOs

LEEZAKAYA

$$$$

Aurora / Japanese From the team behind Tofu Story and Mono Mono Korean Fried Chicken, this swanky eatery boasts a large menu of Japanese bites and sake. The mentaiko creamy pasta is a must-order. Reservations accepted. 2710 S. Havana St., Aurora, 720-769-6595. Lunch, Dinner

LEVEN DELI CO.

Golden Triangle / Deli Classic deli meets California cool at this bright spot. Get a taste of the house-made pastrami on the Reuben sandwich or go for the crisp chop salad. Reservations not accepted. 123 W. 12th Ave., 303-325-5691. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

LOU’S ITALIAN SPECIALTIES

the raw bar, or give appetizers like the cream pork kimchi a try. Reservations accepted. 1560 Boulder St., 720-372-7100. Lunch, Dinner

MOLOTOV KITSCHEN & COCKTAILS

$$$$

City Park / Eastern European The ever-changing menu at this kitschy restaurant from chef Bo Porytko celebrates the cuisine of Ukraine. Try creative takes on borscht and Eastern European dumplings. Reservations accepted. 3333 E. Colfax Ave., 303-316-3333. Dinner

MY BROTHER’S BAR

Curtis Park / Italian This takeout-only spot by Josh Pollack of Rosenberg’s Bagels & Delicatessen takes after classic Tri State Italian delis. Try the Louie, a classic sub packed with salami, capicola, and ham sliced to order. Reservations not accepted. 3357 N. Downing St., 720-287-3642. Lunch, Dinner

LUCINA EATERY & BAR

$$$

South Park Hill / Latin American Bold flavors from Latin America, the Caribbean, and coastal Spain tantalize at this lively restaurant. Try the mofongo (plantain mash) or the twoperson paella with rotating toppings only served on Fridays and Saturdays. Reservations accepted. 2245 Kearney St., Suite 101, 720814-1053. Dinner

MACHETE TEQUILA & TACOS

Cherry Creek / Mexican Enjoy tequilas and tacos al pastor at this Cherry Creek eatery. Also try the Union Station location. Reservations accepted. 2817 E. Third Ave., 303-333-1567. Lunch, Dinner

MAJOR TOM

LoHi / Pub Enjoy beers and burgers with classical music in one of Denver’s oldest bars. Order the JCB burger with jalapeño cream cheese. Reservations not accepted. 2376 15th St., 303-455-9991. Lunch, Dinner

NI TUYO

$$$

Belcaro / Mexican Visit this Bonnie Brae eatery for bubbly molcajetes: piping-hot stone bowls of Mexican meats and veggies stewed in chile sauce. Or grab a seat at the bar for a tasty margarita with an order of chips and salsa. Reservations not accepted. 730 S. University Blvd., 303-282-8896. Dinner

NOBLE RIOT

$$$

RiNo / American Find charcuterie boards, fried chicken, and other bites at this sommelieroperated natural wine bar. Reservations accepted. 1336 27th St., 303-993-5330. Dinner

NOISETTE RESTAURANT & BAKERY

$$$$

RiNo / American This lounge from the team behind Beckon offers a Champagne-centric drink menu and a delectable lineup of shareable bites. Enjoy larger-format plates at a table inside, or throw back some oysters on the beautiful patio. Reservations accepted. 2845 Larimer St., 303-848-9777. Dinner

MAKFAM

Baker / Chinese The Chinese food at this streetfood-inspired, fast-casual eatery in the Baker neighborhood eschews tradition for a whole lot more fun. Try the jian bing (scallion pancake) sandwiches. Reservations not accepted. 39 W. First Ave. Lunch, Dinner

MARIGOLD

$$$$

Lyons / European This small, light-filled restaurant serves seasonally driven, French- and Italianinfluenced fare. The pink-peppercorn-laced farinata (chickpea pancake) is a delicious mainstay of the frequently changing menu, and the amarofocused cocktail program is also delightful. Reservations accepted. 405 Main St., Suite B, Lyons, 303-823-2333. Dinner

MIZU IZAKAYA

$$$$

LoHi / French Chefs Tim and Lillian Lu serve elegant renditions of bourgeoisie-style specialties (French home-cooked comforts) in a romantic, light-drenched space. Tear into the perfectly crisp baguette to set the Parisian scene for your dining experience. Reservations accepted. 3254 Navajo St., Suite 100, 720-7698103. Dinner, Brunch

NOLA VOODOO TAVERN AND PERKS

$$ Clayton / Southern New Orleans native and owner Henry Batiste serves his grandmother’s recipes for gumbo, po’ boys, and much more at this Louisiana-inspired spot. Reservations accepted. 3321 Bruce Randolph Ave., 720-3899544. Lunch, Dinner

OCEAN PRIME

$$$$ LoDo / Seafood A marriage between land and sea, this supper club offers steak house dining and fresh fish in one. Reservations accepted. 1465 Larimer St., 303-825-3663. Dinner

ODIE B’S

$ Sunnyside / American Sandwiches reach their prime at this fast-casual restaurant. Try twists on classics like the fried chicken sandwich with deviled egg spread and the mixed bag of fries, which combines four different shapes of fried spuds. Reservations not accepted. 2651 W. 38th Ave., 303-993-8078. Breakfast, Lunch, Brunch

OSAKA RAMEN

LoHi / Sushi This contemporary Japanese restaurant offers an impressive bar and a hip atmosphere. Order items from the binchotan (charcoal grill) or

$$ RiNo / Japanese Jeff Osaka’s modern ramen shop features original noodle soups, bento boxes, and creative small plates. Reservations not accepted. 2611 Walnut St., 303-955-7938. Lunch, Dinner

LIVE, LOOK, PERFORM BETTER LONGER

OTOTO

$$$

Platt Park / Japanese From the team behind Sushi Den, this eatery breaks away from its Den Corner counterparts by focusing on more casual Japanese eats. Try the yellowtail collar grilled over white oak charcoal. Reservations accepted. 1501 S. Pearl St., 303-942-1416. Dinner, Brunch

POINT EASY

$$$$

Whittier / Contemporary This stylish, inviting farm-to-table eatery produces feasts made with thoughtfully sourced ingredients, many of which are grown locally. Pair the calamari- and tomatostudded bucatini nero with a specialty cocktail. Reservations accepted. 2000 E. 28th Ave., 303233-5656. Dinner

POTAGER

$$$

Capitol Hill / Contemporary Since 1997, this rustic Capitol Hill restaurant has specialized in fresh, seasonally driven food. The menu changes once a month. Reservations accepted. 1109 N. Ogden St., 303-246-7073. Dinner

QUIERO AREPAS

Platt Park / Latin American The entirely glutenfree menu at this Platt Park eatery offers delicious selections like the pollo guisado arepa, a flatbread that comes stuffed with shredded chicken, black beans, and cheese. Also check out the LoHi location. Reservations not accepted. 1859 S. Pearl St., 720-432-4205. Lunch, Dinner

RAS KASSA’S

Lafayette / Ethiopian Find shareable Ethiopian cuisine in a comfortable environment. Order a meat or vegetarian combo plate and a glass of honey wine. Reservations not accepted. 802 S. Public Road, Lafayette, 303-447-2919. Dinner

REDEEMER PIZZA

$$$

RiNo / Pizza Spencer White and Alex Figura, the duo behind Dio Mio, bring perfectly blistered, New York City–style sourdough pizza to RiNo. Reservations accepted. 2705 Larimer St., 720780-1379. Dinner

RESTAURANT OLIVIA

$$$$ Washington Park / Italian This cozy yet modern neighborhood spot specializes in fresh pastas of all varieties. The ravioli and other stuffed pastas are must-orders, and a specialty Negroni doesn’t hurt, either. Reservations accepted. 290 S. Downing St., 303-999-0395. Dinner

RIOJA

$$$$

LoDo / Mediterranean James Beard Award–winning chef Jennifer Jasinski creates high-end Mediterranean-influenced cuisine. Also try her lunchtime takeout pop-up, Flavor Dojo, which offers healthy bowls. Reservations accepted. 1431 Larimer St., 303-820-2282. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

SAP SUA

$$$ Congress Park / Vietnamese This smart eatery from husband-and-wife duo Ni and Anna Nguyen finds its culinary footing in Vietnamese flavors. Herbaceous offerings like culantrocapped tomato toast and lemongrass-scented pork shoulder are favorites of those who frequent the Congress Park restaurant. Reservations accepted. 2550 E. Colfax Ave., 303-7362303. Dinner

SHIN YUU IZAKAYA

Louisville / Japanese Sushi, ramen, and yakitori (charcoal-grilled meat skewers) pair nicely with Japanese whisky and shochu at this casual eatery. Reservations not accepted. 917 Front St., Suite 100, Louisville, 303-661-3009. Lunch, Dinner

SPUNTINO

$$$$

Highland / Italian Enjoy the eclectic and locally sourced menu at this Italian-inspired, husbandand-wife-owned spot. Go for any of the dishes with Southern Indian influences—a product of chef Cindhura Reddy’s heritage—like malai kofta gnocchi. Don’t miss the house-made gelatos for dessert. Reservations accepted. 2639 W. 32nd Ave., 303-433-0949. Dinner

STONE CELLAR BISTRO

$$$

Arvada / Contemporary Visit this farm-to-table spot in Olde Town Arvada for beautifully presented dishes made with local produce by chefs Jordan Alley and Brandon Kerr. Don’t miss the foie gras parfait or the hot honey fried chicken. Reservations accepted. 7605 Grandview Ave., Arvada, 720-630-7908. Dinner

SUNDAY VINYL

$$$

LoDo / European This Union Station restaurant offers warm hospitality, exquisite cuisine, and an extensive wine list, all to the soundtrack of a vinylonly playlist. Order the caviar-topped hash brown patty and something from the indulgent selection of sweet treats. Reservations accepted. 1803 16th Street Mall, 720-738-1803. Dinner

SUSHI SASA

$$$

LoHi / Japanese Enjoy Japanese fusion cuisine— including sushi combos, poke bowls, noodles, and much more—in a sleek, modern setting. Don’t miss the seared wagyu beef with cucumbers, foie gras, and sesame tamari. Reservations accepted. 2401 15th St., Suite 80, 303-433-7272. Lunch, Dinner

TAMAYO

$$$

LoDo / Mexican This spot’s modern menu is derived from the flavors and ingredients of chef-owner Richard Sandoval’s native Mexico. Check out the rooftop lounge and the selection of more than 100 tequilas. Reservations accepted. 1400 Larimer St., 720-946-1433. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

TAVERNETTA

$$$$

LoDo / Italian The team behind Boulder’s acclaimed Frasca Food and Wine offers the same attention to hospitality at this more casual Denver restaurant. The charming space is home to dishes from across Italy and a deep wine list. Reservations accepted. 1889 16th St., 720-605-1889. Lunch, Dinner

TEALEE’S TEAHOUSE AND BOOKSTORE $$

Five Points / International Head to this charming teahouse-bookstore-market for loose-leaf and specialty teas and all-day fare like soups, salads, sandwiches, and freshly baked pastries. Reservations accepted. 611 22nd St., 303-593-2013. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

TRAVELING MERCIES

$$$

Aurora / Seafood Annette’s Caroline Glover expands her offerings in Aurora’s Stanley Marketplace with this petite yet airy oyster and cocktail bar. Order the anchovy and baguette with French churned butter. Reservations accepted. 2501 Dallas St., Suite 311, Aurora. Dinner

TUPELO HONEY SOUTHERN KITCHEN & BAR

$$$ LoDo / Southern Nosh on reimagined versions of down-home dishes, such as honey-dusted fried chicken. Reservations accepted. 1650 Wewatta St., 720-274-0650. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

URBAN VILLAGE GRILL

$$$ Lone Tree / Indian This eatery serves classic and contemporary dishes from across India. Reservations accepted. 8505 Park Meadows Center Drive, Suite 2184A, Lone Tree, 720-536-8565. Lunch, Dinner

US THAI CAFE

$ Edgewater / Thai Fresh ingredients, spicy dishes, and a chef straight from Thailand make for an authentic, if mouth-tingling, dining experience. Reservations accepted. 5228 W. 25th Ave., Edgewater, 303-233-3345. Lunch, Dinner

VINH XUONG BAKERY

Washington Park / Vietnamese This family-owned bakery has roots in Denver that stretch back more than 25 years. They serve up delicious banh mi sandwiches and other tasty Vietnamese treats. Reservations not accepted. 2370 Alameda Ave., 303-922-0999. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

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WATERCOURSE FOODS

Uptown / American This vegetarian icon has been serving wholesome food since 1998. The zesty soups, salads, and wraps are healthy and delicious. Reservations accepted. 837 E. 17th Ave., 303-8327313. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

WEATHERVANE CAFE

City Park West / American Enjoy a small but sumptuous menu of breakfast items, sandwiches, and salads at this cozy Uptown cafe. Reservations not accepted. 1725 E. 17th Ave. Breakfast, Lunch

WELLNESS SUSHI

before pastry chef Emily Thompson’s dessert course. Reservations accepted. 4058 Tejon St., 720-456-6705. Dinner

WYNKOOP BREWING COMPANY

LoDo / Pub Enjoy fresh beer and pub favorites such as the bison burger at one of Denver’s original brewpubs. Reservations accepted. 1634 18th St., 303-297-2700. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

XICAMITI LA TAQUERÍA

Congress Park / Japanese Vegan sushi stars at this fast-casual joint by husband-and-wife duo Steven and Phoebe Lee. Don’t miss hot options like the soupless ramen. Reservations not accepted. 2504 E. Colfax Ave., 720-306-4989. Lunch, Dinner

WHITTIER CAFE

Whittier / Cafe This espresso bar, which supports social-justice-related causes, serves coffee, beer, and wine sourced from various African nations and a small menu of pastries, breakfast burritos, panini, and more. Reservations not accepted. 1710 E. 25th Ave., 720-550-7440. Breakfast, Lunch

THE WOLF’S TAILOR

Wong’s hand-folded delicacies. Reservations accepted. 2878 Fairfax St., 303-320-5642. Lunch

ZEPPELIN STATION

RiNo / International This industrial-chic food hall in RiNo is home to seven globally inspired food and drink vendors, including Procession Coffee, Purisma, and Gyros King. 3501 Wazee St. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

Golden / Mexican This long-standing joint serves cooked-to-order burritos, tacos, quesadillas, and alambres (skillet dishes). Reservations not accepted. 715 Washington Ave., Golden, 303-2153436. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

YACHT CLUB

Cole / American Enjoy classic and creative cocktails at this loungelike bar alongside an array of snacks. Reservations not accepted. 3701 N. Williams St., 720-443-1135. Dinner

YAHYA’S MEDITERRANEAN GRILL & PASTRIES

City Park West / Mediterranean This family-run restaurant serves silky hummus, grilled kebabs, and from-scratch sweets. Reservations accepted. 2207 E. Colfax Ave., 720-532-8746. Lunch, Dinner

$$$$

Sunnyside / Contemporary This Michelin-starred restaurant from chef-restaurateur Kelly Whitaker transforms local ingredients into a globally minded, prix fixe tasting menu. Don’t get too full

YUAN WONTON

North Park Hill / Asian House-made dumplings earn top billing at this ambitious eatery from chef Penelope Wong. Head in on Fridays for a dimsum-themed lunch that showcases the best of

ZOCALITO LATIN BISTRO

$$$ Downtown / Mexican Formerly located in Aspen, chef/owner Michael Beary’s upscale Oaxacan eatery found a home in the heart of Denver. Try the pork tenderloin. Reservations accepted. 999 18th St., Suite 107, 720-923-5965. Dinner

ZOE MA MA

LoDo / Chinese This cozy counter-service spot offers Chinese home-style cooking. Also try the Boulder location. Reservations not accepted. 1625 Wynkoop St., 303-545-6262. Lunch, Dinner

ZORBA’S

Congress Park / Greek Zorba’s has served American and Greek fare in Congress Park since 1979. Reservations not accepted. 2626 E. 12th Ave., 303-321-0091. Breakfast, Dinner, Lunch

 These listings are in no way related to advertising in 5280. If you find that a restaurant differs significantly from the information in its listing or your favorite restaurant is missing from the Dining Guide, please let us know. Write us at 5280 Publishing, Inc., 1675 Larimer St., Suite 675, Denver, CO 80202 or dining@5280.com.

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wonton wrapper. Fold the wonton in half, making a rectangle, and be sure to seal each edge nice and tight.

5. Dab water onto both sides of the wonton (it should be sitting horizontally in your hand). From the folded side of the rectangle, bring both corners to overlap in the center and pinch them together, making sure that all sides are sealed and the bottom is flat. Your folded wonton should resemble the shape of a gold ingot.

6. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil over medium-high heat. A big pot should be able to cook all the wontons, while a smaller pot will likely fit eight to 10 pieces at a time. When the wontons float to the top, turn off the water and let them sit for an additional two minutes. Strain the wontons and enjoy with your favorite condiment, such as soy sauce with chile oil.

7. To freeze the wontons to cook later, put them on a sheet pan after you fold them and pop them into your freezer. Once frozen, you can store them in a Ziploc bag for up to three months. m

Wan and Yuen’s wontons are shaped like gold ingots, a symbol of good luck and fortune.

Chris Simpson

underground, like cicadas.” That’s what happened following the Berg murder and the Oklahoma City bombing, Flynn says. But he’s alarmed that the Charlottesville rally and the January 6 insurrection in Washington, D.C., haven’t seemed to dampen the surge of far-right extremism, pointing to Trump’s campaign-trail promise to use the U.S. National Guard to deport undocumented immigrants. “We’re in a flow period right now,” Flynn says. “And it’s frightening. This movie won’t come out until after the election, but are we really talking about rounding up 20 million people in this country with the military? I mean, Jesus Christ.”

FLYNN DIDN’T HAVE to wait long for feedback on the film. As soon as The Order ended, the audience in Venice sprung to its feet and gave the movie a nine-minute-and-23-second

standing ovation. When Law rose to wave to the crowd, Flynn’s journalistic impulse to record the moment took over, and he started snapping photos. Each time the applause threatened to die (ovation times are a closely measured metric for success at the festival), the no-nonsense politician clapped harder to keep it going.

Eventually, however, the crowd quieted, and Flynn decided it was time to duck out of the limelight. There was something Nancy Gerhardt, Gary’s widow, had asked Flynn to do before leaving Italy.

Flynn and Gerhardt never wrote another book together but remained close friends. Gerhardt retired from the Rocky in 2007, but Flynn was still working there when the paper shuttered in 2009. Six years later, Flynn won a City Council seat representing Denver’s District 2. “I thought, After covering these bozos for so many years,” Flynn says, “maybe I could be a better bozo.” Gerhardt died from cancer the same year Flynn became a councilman.

With his brother and sister-in-law by his side, Flynn strolled into a nearby courtyard called the Palazzo del Casinò to search for a suitable spot. He noticed a small, shaded lawn that seemed perfect for his needs.

Flynn knelt down, dug a small hole, and took the bag Nancy had given him from his jacket pocket. Since Gary’s death, the Gerhardt family has been spreading the former reporter’s ashes around the world, leaving traces of him in locations that hold special meanings. Flynn poured his friend’s remains into the Italian soil. “I think this is one place,” Flynn says, “that would absolutely be at the top of his list of where he would want to be.” m

Chris Walker is a Denver-based freelance writer. Send feedback to letters@5280.com.

Executive producers Zach Baylin and Kate Susman

SCENE CALENDAR

DEC 1-31

Colorado Gives Day

Across the state, Colorado

It only takes a little to make a big impact. Give for Colorado Gives Day on December 10, or any day after, to support the causes you care about the most to lift up our local community.

To give, please visit coloradogivesday.org

DEC 7

50th Anniversary of 9NEWS Parade of Lights

Denver | 6pm

The 2024 9NEWS Parade of Lights, produced by the Downtown Denver Partnership and celebrating 50 years of holiday magic, will feature over 40 floats, balloons, marching bands, cultural displays, and special guests like Major Waddles and Santa.

Information and tickets at winterindenver.com/parade.

DEC 10

Meow Meow

Newman Center for the Performing Arts | 7:30 p.m.

International chanteuse Meow Meow delivers holiday hilarity in “Feline Festive,” a rollicking show featuring a talented band and a mix of jazzy vintage tunes, Weimar-era hits, French chansons, and original, contemporary classics to kindle the holiday spirit.

Information and tickets at newmancenterpresents.com.

JAN 11-26

National Western Stock Show

NW Complex, 4655 Humboldt St.

Get ready for the ride of a lifetime! For 16 unforgettable days in January, the National Western Stock Show turns Denver into the ultimate Western destination with thrilling rodeos, champion livestock, exciting horse shows, and fun-filled family events. Don’t miss out!

Information and tickets at mychildsmuseum.org.

Winter Fun At Ruby Hill

As the flurries started flying, we spoke with Regan Carriere, supervisor of Denver Parks and Recreation’s Southwest District, to find out how everyone from budding Clark Griswolds to virtuosic Lindsey Vonns can enjoy their days at Denver’s most accessible snowsports destination: Ruby Hill Park. —SPENCER CAMPBELL

Ruby Hill’s massive sledding hill is the most popular in the city, according to Carriere. There are no hard-andfast rules about the best way to gain momentum, but Carriere recommends a running start and a sled or a piece of cardboard in plastic wrap to reduce friction.

Speed is encouraged on the hill—within reason. The run bottoms out near a public road, and you risk a ticket (and, you know, death) should you skid into it. Park rangers patrol this area often during winter; parking on the grass and unleashing your dog (among other things) could net you a fine of up to $999.

You can lug your own gear to the park’s urban rail yard—basically, a skatepark for skiers and snowboarders—but why bother with the hassle? Last year, the parks department began providing free ski and snowboard rentals for kids and adults on Thursdays and Fridays (4 p.m. to 9 p.m.) and Saturdays (11 a.m. to 6 p.m.).

Ruby Hill Park is open from 5 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily, but the best time to go is late afternoon to catch views of downtown Denver at sunset. After nightfall, the artificial lights come on, enabling illuminated sledding and shredding till 9 p.m.

Not enough pow? Not a problem. Every year, Winter Park Resort brings its snowmaking machines to Ruby Hill as soon as there are freshies on the ground. Sure, the terrain might get a little glassy at times, but that just turns the sledding hill into a speed-silly luge.