September 2022 48° North Digital

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M E M B ERSHIP -ASA S A I L I N G SCHOOLPRO S H O PT h e f u n p l a c e t o l e a r n & s a i l ! S H O P . S E A T T L E S A I L I N G . C O WM W W . S E A T T L E S A I L I N G . C O M M E M B E R S H I P S E T - U P F E E A S A S A I L I N G L E S S O N S P R O S H O P F O U L W E A T H E R G E A R u s e c o d e : B O A T S H O W 2 2 $ 1 0 0 O f f u s e c o d e : S A I L 2 S A V E C a l l t o S i g n - u p ( 2 0 6 ) 7 8 2 - 5 1 0 0 2 0 % o f f B O A T S H O W S P E C I A L S i n s h i l s h o l e b a y m a r i n a 7 0 0 1 S E A V I E W A V E N W S T E 1 3 0 S E A T T L E , W A 9 8 1 1 7 ( 2 0 6 ) 7 8 2 - 5 1 0 0 i n f o @ s e a t t l e s a i l i n g . c o m @ s e a t t l e s a i l i n g c l u b c o m e d o w n & v i s i t u s @ C H A N D L E R S C O V E M A R I N A i n s o u t h l a k e u n i o n S e p t e m b e r 1 5 t h - 1 8 t h Available online, instore, & at the show! $ 1 0 0 O f f

By Meredith Anderson 22 Beacon Background Grays Harbor Lighthouse: The tallest of them all. By Lisa Mighetto 24 Paddle Path Give a kid a paddle and watch them fly.

By Bruce Bateau 20 Diesel Deep Dive


The Gorge delivers epic conditions for Optimist Nationals. By Andrew Nelson COLUMNS 18 Close to the Water Feeling the love of a small, open sail and oar boat.

Finishing their COVID-closed loop via Naha, Japan to Port Townsend, Washington.

32 48° North-Ullman Sails Cruising Rally Recap

Beautiful weather and new friends create cruising success in the San Juans.

By Erica Lichty RACING 40 Pac Cup 2022

48º NORTH 5 SEPTEMBER 2022 FEATURES 26 Homeward Bound, Part 3

An offshore dream achieved on “The Fun Race” to Hawaii. By Molly Howe 43 Down the Sound Finding the breeze from Seattle to Tacoma and back. By David Miller 44 Shaw Island Classic Clockwise was the way to go on the 50th edition of this iconic race.

By Peg Gerlock and Jim Corenman ON THE COVER: 48° North -Ullman Sails Cruising Rally participants rafted and anchored off of Spencer’s Spit on another beautiful day in the San Juan Islands. Photo by Andy Cross.

By Peter and Ginger Niemann

The hows, whats and whys of being a diesel mechanic.


By Andy Cross 36 Little Boats on the Big Stage

Editor Proud members: CRUISING SPONTANEITY REWARDED SUBSCRIPTION OPTIONS FOR 2022! $39/Year For The Magazine $75/Year For Premium (perks!) Prices vary for international or first class. Andy EditorCross 48° North 6

For most of my 20s, I worked as a full-time sailing instructor and a large portion of the classes I taught were weeklong liveaboard cruising courses. When I began teaching these classes, I learned very quickly that trying to stick to a strict cruising itinerary was a recipe for stress and disappointment. Also, it could be downright dangerous if that schedule put us in harm’s way.

Later, when Jill and I started cruising on our own boat, eventually with our two boys, we employed this flexible schedule approach with great success. Oftentimes, and still to this day, we’ll have several options in mind and we might change plans on a whim or we won’t actually make a definitive call on our final destination until we’re underway. If we get to an anchorage and don’t find it suitable for some reason or another, or we think there is a better option nearby, we’ll move. This theme of adaptability was hammered home once again while leading the 48° North-Ullman Sails Cruising Rally in the San Juan Islands during the first week of August (see page 32). My co-leader, Chuck Skewes, and I knew that with eight boats in the height of the Pacific Northwest cruising season, we’d absolutely have to be flexible with our itinerary. Taking into account the weather, tides, and available space for all of us to raft up or anchor meant that making a full day-by-day plan for the week would be a fool’s errand. Also, would boats need to make stops along the way to pump out or top up on provisions, fuel, or water? We wouldn’t really know until we were out there.Ultimately, this turned out to be a wise decision and presented a learning opportunity for the rally participants. One anchorage didn’t work because there wasn’t enough room, so we adjusted on the fly and went somewhere else. Another spot worked for most of a day and night until an unexpected breeze kicked up 12 hours sooner than predicted. When it did, and we were forced to move, we executed a new plan and were pleasantly rewarded with our spontaneity. It turned out to be a fantastic week of group cruising in the San Juans. Of course, I’m not saying that every cruiser needs to do it exactly this way. One of the wonderful aspects of boating is that once we’ve cut the dock lines and have moved beyond the breakwater, the choices are ours. And, fortunately, with the immense amount of options available to mariners in the Pacific Northwest, there’s truly no wrong way to go. Whatever course you choose to take, have fun and be safe out there. Fair winds,

48º NORTH 6 SEPTEMBER 2022 Volume XLII, Number 2, September 2022 (206) info@48north.com789-7350 | Publisher Northwest Maritime Center Editor Andy andy@48north.comCross Associate Editor Deborah Bach Designer Rainier rainier@48north.comPowers Advertising Sales Kachele kachele@48north.comYelaca Classifieds Photographer Jan Anderson 48° North is published as a project of the Northwest Maritime Center in Port Townsend, WA – a 501(c)3 non-profit organization whose mission is to engage and educate people of all generations in traditional and contemporary maritime life, in a spirit of adventure and discovery. Northwest Maritime Center: 431 Water St, Port Townsend, WA 98368 (360) 385-3628 48° North encourages letters, photographs, manuscripts, burgees, and bribes. Emailed manuscripts and high quality digital images are best! We are not responsible for unsolicited materials. Articles express the author’s thoughts and may not reflect the opinions of the magazine. Reprinting in whole or part is expressly forbidden except by permission from the editor. “It depends. We’ll kind of make the itinerary up as we go along,” I said to a cockpit table of four cruising students when asked what our schedule would be for our week together on the water. Three of them looked back at me with wide, blinking eyes. The other let out an uneasy chuckle. Needing to put them at ease, I spread out a chart of the British Virgin Islands on the table and continued, “Yes, we’ll have an overarching idea of where we’re going to sail, but making decisions as we go — based on the weather and how we’re feeling — will make this much more enjoyable for all of us.” To this, they all nodded back in agreement with some form of an optimistic smile.


is a place where boat builders, sailors, DIYers, and the curious can find amazing deals on hardware, tools, and all kinds of other interesting boat gear. The goal is to keep good materials out of landfills and in circulation while ensuring the costs of boating stay accessible to many, and to support the

During the school’s first year, students were out on the water in everything from a 40-foot catamaran to kayaks. They’ve built canoes, tested water quality, learned navigation and how to read charts, and more — while also learning traditional subjects like math, language arts, and science.

Marine Thrift Northwest

48º NORTH 8 SEPTEMBER 2022 News from the Northwest Maritime Center >> As most readers know, 48° North has been published by the Northwest Maritime Center (NWMC) since 2018. We are continually amazed by the inspiring and important work of our colleagues and organization, and are excited to dedicate this page to sharing a bit about it with you. This page affirms that 48° North is part of something bigger, and that we think the missionminded efforts of our organization matter to our readers, and are good for this community and publication. DO YOU HAVE ANY BOAT GEAR FOR DONATION? WE TAKE: • Used tools • Vintage and hardto-find hardware • Anything bronze (props, shackles, etc.) • Fenders • Boat hooks • Fasteners • Light fixtures • Select maritime antiques • Instruments We also may accept small craft in good condition including skiffs, kayaks, canoes, etc., space permitting. Visit Marine Thrift in Port Towsend’s Boat Haven Marina at 315B Haines Place, Port Townsend. DONATE GEAR TO MARITIME THRIFT

Students at Maritime High School went back to the classroom, boatshop, and waters of the Pacific Northwest on Sept. 1. Maritime High brings together students from the Highline Public Schools district and around Puget Sound and beyond to learn about our region’s environment, marine science, and maritime careers. Now in its second year, Maritime High uses project-based learning, an approach that emphasizes learning by doing and the development of practical solutions to current challenges. This approach aims to help students grow as collaborative leaders and creative problem-solvers, and will have them working directly with multiple leaders in Washington’s maritime industry by the time they graduate.

Maritime Center’s mission and educational programs.

» Learn more about Maritime High School and apply to attend or support the future of our maritime industry at school/

WOODEN BOAT FESTIVAL Sept. 9–11 Northwest Maritime Center BUILD YOUR OWN SKERRY FOR SAIL AND ROW Sept. 19-25 Northwest Maritime Center TIDES AND CURRENTS IN THE SALISH SEA Sept. 27-28 | Online SPARS, PADDLES, OARS, & MORE Oct. Northwest7-9 Maritime Center ANCHORING AND ANCHORAGES Oct. 18-19 | Online BUILD YOUR OWN SHEARWATER OR WOOD DUCK SEA KAYAK Oct. Northwest24-30 Maritime Center RULES OF THE ROAD AND AIDS TO NAVIGATION Nov. 8-9 | Online SAVE THE DATE! 2023 WOODEN BOAT FESTIVAL Sept. 8-10, 2023 Northwest Maritime Center EVENTS CALENDAR »

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Dave Leech

10 Moonshine Keeps Shining Hello ThankAndy,youfor the article on Moonshine (see July issue of 48° North). I built it in my callow youth. It is heartwarming to see that it has a good home and — judging by the Pacific Cup doublehanded division win — it is well sailed. It is the most accurate story about Moonshine that I have seen in print. Keep up the good work!

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Brian Deane SV Namaste Sydney, B.C. Making Progress Hi Andy, I have been picking up the magazine for years now and breezing through it. It was ok but not much to hold your attention. Lately I noticed it holds my attention and has become a magazine I take my time and read. Good job. Keep it up. Thank JimRespectfully,you.Brown94965 Shown

Stern Tying Etiquette Hi 48° North, One thing not mentioned in Andy Cross's article on anchoring etiquette is being a courteous boater when arriving at a popular tight anchorage first. (Princess Cove on Wallace Island and the Copeland Islands at the entrance to Desolation Sound come to mind.) These anchorages have enough room for many boats if the stern ties are used by every boater, but will only accommodate a few if the first boaters to arrive decide to swing in the middle. Please pick the best stern tie for yourself when you are the first to arrive.


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48º NORTH 12 SEPTEMBER 2022 CROSSWORD AND TRIVIA ACROSS 1 Housing for a ship’s compass 5 ____ sail (started out on a voyage) 8 Covered with water 9 Part of a whale’s tail 10 Pole employee 11 Desert stop for water and rest 13 Spars 14 Two prefix 16 Hanging bed 19 Boom, for example 21 Babe 22 Exist 23 Heart of the earth 24 Quiet down, as a storm say 27 Gusted 28 ___ de Janeiro 29 Beach convenience 31 Exhilarated reaction 32 Forever and a day 33 Mermaid setting DOWN 1 Lighthouse, e.g. 2 Closes in on 3 They are often scattered at sea 4 Sail closer into the wind 5 Shoal 6 What Long John Silver wanted 7 Sudden flow, as of water 12 Philosopher’s study 14 High wave caused by tidal flow 15 Berg material 16 Santa’s laugh sound 17 Holds a boat in one spot 18 Place for slips 20 Moves abruptly as a ship 21 Refuge 25 Channel markers 26 Military jail 30 Drink with lemon and ice


by Bryan Henry In 1960, the nuclear submarine USS Triton completed the first undersea circumnavigation of the world. It took 84 days and traveled 46,000 miles. John Fairfax of Great Britain departed San Agustin, Canary Islands, Jan. 20, 1969, on a singlehanded row across the Atlantic to Florida — the first solo crossing of any ocean by oar — and landed on Hollywood Beach, Florida, July 19, one day before the first moon landing.

Astronaut Kathy Sullivan, who in 1984 became the first American woman to conduct a space walk, on June 7, 2020, also became the first woman to reach the Challenger Deep, the deepest point in the ocean and nearly seven miles down.

Eight of the world’s deepest ocean trenches are deep enough to submerge Mount Everest.

In 1944, Sue Sophia Dauser became the first woman to earn the rank of captain in the United States Navy. In 1971, Chay Blyth, in his 43-foot ketch British Steel , completed the first singlehanded circumnavigation of the world against prevailing winds.

The highest altitude reached by an ocean voyager occurred in 1974 when Tristan Jones reached Lake Titicaca by portage, 12,500 feet, in his 20-foot sloop Sea Dart .

The Madeira River, which flows into the Amazon, is the world’s longest tributary, at 2,100 miles.

The Nile River could stretch from New York to Berlin, Germany.

American explorer Victor Vescovo is the first person to both summit Mount Everest and in 2019 descend to the bottom of the Mariana Trench.

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Only at Olympia Harbor Days can Puget Sound vintage tugboats be found for a climb-aboard show and races. The free South Sound Maritime Heritage Association family-friendly festival along the boardwalk is set for Sept. 2 through 4.

Lisa Parshley rowed in this year’s SEVENTY48 Race, a 48-hour, 70-mile human-powered race from Tacoma to Port Townsend. By Land: Olympia Harbor Days opens with a Squaxin Island Tribe blessing, followed by a show by local rock band Pumphouse on the Main Stage at Percival Landing. You can find Lucky Eagle Casino staff smoking cedar-planked salmon over an open pit for your dinner. Or head down to the Port Plaza Tower Stage for some folky tunes by Cosmos Dream and relax by the bay at the Northwest Beerwerks beer/wine/cider garden. The beer garden will be offered all weekend at the Port Plaza. This year’s festival will have no lack of activities for the kids. At the Lego harbor build, sponsored by Heritage Bank, kids create a tug, yacht, or pirate ship to add to the display. Washington’s Lottery Marine Discovery Center with Puget Sound Estuarium will have a touch tank on Sunday at Percival Landing. Kids will love Olympia’s award-winning Hands On Children’s Museum’s rumble tug make-race-take activity at the Port Plaza as part of “Ships of the Harbor,” sponsored by Capital Heating, Cooling, and Plumbing. There will be remote-control model tugboats and sailboats, and a treasure chest at the Harbor House for kids who come to the festival dressed like a pirate, or not. New this year, Olympia’s local boating clubs, including rowing, sailing, dragon boating, and kayaking, will be displaying boats and information about on-the-water recreational/ sporting activities. Coast Salish tribes will present tribal drummaking and cultural sharings at the Port Plaza. A wide array of music, maritime presentations, and poetry are offered on both the Main and Tower stages. The Midway Stage offers something different daily — music, chainsaw carving, and a sand quickcarve contest.

tides » News & Events


» For a complete schedule, festival details or more information, please visit While the festival is free, there is a suggested donation of $5 per person or $10 per family.


Olympia Harbor Days is the South Sound’s premier and largest maritime festival, with over 250 things to do and see. Vintage tugboats as well as tug replicas of all shapes and sizes can be found, including mini-tugs, model tugs, sand-carved tugs, Lego tugs and even a chainsawcarved tug. Organizers are excited about the return of 85foot tug Chippewa, which has been renovated and has not been at the festival for over a decade. The high-end creative Makers Market returns with many new artisans, and the Food G’Alley is offering a wide assortment of international and seafood tasty treats. Two stages will feature live music, tribal sharings, maritime presentations, poetry, and more. Schedules, offerings, and music lineups can be found at Festival hours are Friday 5 p.m. to 8 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., and Sunday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.By Sea: Participating tugboats will be moored at Percival Landing and open for touring from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday. The famous and last remaining vintage tugboat races in the world will be held Sunday starting at noon in the shipping channel of Budd Inlet. Note — you will need to be on the water to see them. The Lady Washington, the state tall ship, arrives early on Wednesday, Aug. 31, and the historic Mosquito Fleet steamship Virginia V arrives at the Port Plaza dock on Friday. Both ships offer onboard tours by donation, and excursions on Budd Inlet can be secured for a fee; ticket links at www. New this year, two Olympia Schooners will be offering chartered sailings for up to six people each for a fee. A cedar tribal canoe will also be on display. Over 25 vessels will be presented, with some displayed landside, including the hand-built wherry rowboat that Olympia City Councilwoman Dr.



Attractions include a collection of classic boats, the 90-foot Olympic Star serving up beverages and barbecue selections along with a taco bar and wok station, a live jazz stage, and cooking demonstrations by Trinity Mack, culinary director for Waterways Cruises and Events and Lakeside at South Lake Union.

The Boats Afloat Show returns to Seattle’s South Lake Union Sept. 15 through 18 to spotlight a world-class fleet of power and sailing yachts, quality shoreside exhibitors, and a full lineup of activities. It is the largest floating boat show in the Pacific Northwest and is presented by the Northwest Yacht Brokers Association (NYBA).

For newbie sailors, the Seattle Sailing Club will offer two three-hour Intro to Sailing courses aboard two J/80 sailboats each day of the show. The club will also provide free 45-minute rides aboard J/80 and J/105 sailboats during show hours.

Hours for the four-day event are Thursday and Friday (Sept. 15 and 16), 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., Saturday (Sept. 17) 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Sunday (Sept. 18), 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission is $16 for adults 18 and over, $5 for youth aged 12-17, and free for children 11 and under. A multiday pass is available for $30.

tides » News & Events BOATS


The Pacific Northwest Chapter of the Antique & Classic Boat Society adds to the on-the-water fun with free boat rides on scenic Lake Union Saturday and Sunday from noon to 4 p.m. Young boaters won’t be left out as the Center for Wooden Boats provides a workshop area where kids can build their own toy boats to take home.

The show is an opportunity to view spectacular luxury craft from the U.S. and Canada and learn about the latest boating lifestyle and technology trends. Showgoers will have an opportunity to explore and discover a variety of dream boats as the region’s top brokers and dealers share information about the vessels on display.

» The Boats Afloat Show is located on scenic South Lake Union at 901 Fairview Ave N, Seattle, WA 98109. For more information visit


The Boaters Guide app was created by local mariner, John Tessier, to help fellow boaters plan their outings throughout PNW waters. The app allows users to quickly obtain information about marina locations, fuel docks, pumpout stations, and overnight moorage. Specific marina pages include general info and services; VFH, phone, and website; a zoomable marina map; cruising distances to many destinations; 10 categories of services near the marina; and a video overview (if available). This is a community service to encourage boaters to go on more adventures and explore the waters of the Pacific Northwest. It can be downloaded on the Apple App Store.

Price: $1,999 »

Waterproof and lightweight, the Ewincher locks into the winch and has an ergonomic design that puts all the controls at your fingertips. It can be used in the assisted or non-assisted mode, or both at once, to ensure maximum precision. Or it can be used as a manual handle at any time. Able to be used right out of the box, it comes with a rechargeable battery, charger, inverter, winch handle pocket, security leach, and bag.


Designed to be easily installed onto any flat surface and attached to a power source — like under a dodger or on a nav desk — the new ROKK Wireless Catch charger safely holds and wirelessly charges your phone at the same time. The 12/24V waterproof charger’s edging bumpers stop your phone from sliding out and the closed cell EVA foam construction provides shock absorption and anti-vibration, while being extremely hard-wearing, and self-draining. Simply place your phone onto the center of the Catch and it instantly starts charging. That’s it.

low tides » Products News »



For sailors looking for help hoisting the mainsail, adjusting or furling the genoa, and trimming sails, the EWincher 2 electric winch handle might be your next crew member. This new generation electric winch handle allows you to adapt the handle’s power to your needs and monitor your efforts in real time while trimming sails. The Ewincher is designed to perfectly assist sailing maneuvers without altering your natural movements, meaning you can gain trimming power and speed while remaining in an ideal position and exerting minimal effort.

Price: $79.99 »

Price: $599.99 »


One of the most-used and well-loved items on a cruising boat is the ubiquitous propane grill hanging from the pushpit. To enhance the onboard cooking experience, Magma recently launched their Crossover series modular cook system. The marine grade, mirror polished, stainless steel single burner Firebox is a stove that allows the onboard chef to use any pot or saute pan, or you can add any of the optional toppers (sold separately) to grill, make pizza, or griddle. The Firebox comes with legs for tabletop use or you can mount it directly to your boat with the Crossover dual rail mount, LevelLock rod holder mount, or pedestal mount. Other features include fold-out food preparation shelf and cutting board; durable, heat resistant thermoplastic handles and controls; and built-in wind deflectors to prevent blowouts in windy conditions.

Using smartphones on our boats to navigate, take pictures and videos, or play music is seemingly inescapable these days. But the problem can be, where do I put it to keep it safe and charged, yet readily available?

48º NORTH 17 SEPTEMBER 2022 THINKING OF SELLING YOUR BOAT? LET US HELP! Power or Sail, we have buyers waiting! Call: 619.224.2349 or email: Call our Pacific NW area agent Dan: 360.867.1783 A Leader in Brokerage Sales on the West Coast (619) 224-2349 • Fax (619) 224-4692 • 2330 Shelter Island Dr. #207 San Diego, CA 92106 • Toll-Free (866) 341-6189 • Professionally staffed! Open 6 days, Sun by appt. 38’ PEARSON INVICTA II ’66 $59,500 “JIGGER” Custom companionway, interior upgrades, newer standing rigging and Yanmar diesel. A real treat! 33’ FLYING TIGER 33 ’06 $34,900 “OCCAM’S RAZOR” A light weight, no frills boat intended to race. Well-maintained and outfitted. Great sail inventory. 38’ ENDEAVOUR 38 ’84 $$59,500 “LIMIT UP” Comfortable sailer with performance beyond expectations. Beautiful lines. A lot of boat for the price! 70’ SANTA CRUZ 70 ’85 $598,000 Turnkey Subchapter T vessel ready for charter business. Obtain a swift sailing passengersfor-hire boat! 38’ CUSTOM BLOCK ISLAND BOAT ’60 $39,500 “SCRIMSHAW” Double-ender with good handling qualities. Great for short-handed sailing. Impeccably maintained. 31’ PEARSON 31-2 ’89 ..................... $38,000 “SATVA” A fast boat with ample sail area proportioned into a powerful rig. Contemporary hull. Almost no wear and tear; very clean vessel. 37’ BANJER 37 ’70 ..................... $99,000 “KNOCKABOUT” Very capable boat that has been cruised extensively, With her blue water gear she’s ready to carry on in comfort and safety 58’ CUSTOM YAWL ’38 .................... $299,500 “JADA” All-wooden historical yacht certified for Charter for up to 38 passengers. Completely restored. Performs with speed and grace.MONTEREYNEWLISTING MONTEREYLEASE/PURCHASEREDUCED NxNW NORTHWEST RIGGING Rig locally Sail globally 360.293.1154 • •


The author rows across a calm stretch of water.

W hen I pulled up to the customs dock on San Juan Island on a sunny September afternoon, I was feeling good. Over the past six weeks, I had traveled some 200 miles down Vancouver Island, traversed five major rapids, and used mostly paper charts to do it. Now, I had completed the final major crossing of my voyage. Haro Strait may be no big deal for a motor cruiser, but I’d made the passage under sail and oar alone, navigating over the millions of gallons of water coursing beneath my hull, avoiding towering ferries and tankers, and crossing an international border. Peering down at Row Bird, whose bow barely protruded above the dock, the customs agent was unimpressed that a small wooden boat could make such a journey. But I was. Since building Row Bird, we’ve been on many a voyage together. But I haven’t always been a wooden boat guy. A longtime surfer, I was more familiar with fiberglass when I borrowed my first wooden craft from a friend, intrigued by the turn of its bilge and its historicallooking lines. The forest green Lake Oswego boat sat forlornly in his driveway, upside down, gaps beginning to appear between the planks. Still, my friend and I hefted the boat onto the roof of my car and stowed the oars. Before I drove away, he gave me some advice, or perhaps a warning: “You really have to love a wooden boat, or the work involved won’t be worth it. If you don’t feel the love, bring her back.” The planks never took up enough water to stop leaking, and my two frisky little boys made it challenging to take the boat out much. I wasn’t in love. Yet the charm of by Bruce Bateau LOVE


During the next few years, as I tried out various boats, it became clear to me that I was searching for a very specific set of qualities: self-propelled, salty looking, reserve buoyancy for safety, big enough to sleep on, but small enough to avoid the necessity of mooring at a marina.

A few years later, a chance meeting with a new friend, Andy McConkey, led to the construction of a boat that met all my specifications — an 18-foot, lapstrake plywood, Oughtred-designed Arctic Tern. Now, after 11 years and with many voyages in my wake, I’ve learned that the Tern is a fun daysailer and an able cruising craft. Owning one has benefited my life in myriad ways. First and foremost, Row Bird is my escape pod. Easy to launch, retrieve, and sail by myself, she rigs up quickly; it takes about 15 minutes to go from trailer to sailing. While other boaters are still tangling with shrouds and stays in the parking lot, I’m rowing away from the dock, my mind immersed in the wind.

Maintenance is easy with a Tern. I own Row Bird; she doesn’t own me. With just enough brightwork to flaunt her woody heritage, but not enough to be a chore, I actually look forward to applying the next coat of varnish. And since she’s drystored, bottom paint is never on my to-do list. Instead of winterizing her, I pick the choicest days, don my drysuit, and sail through the cold season. I value the independence she provides, allowing me to get out as often as I like. I never search for crew. She can seat up to four people, but she really comes alive with just me; and frankly, I prefer it that way. The cockpit is just the right size, with three different comfortable places to sit, and Row Bird is a pleasure to steer standing up. Unlike larger crafts that are typically bound to the waters where they moor, Row Bird is easily trailerable. Each day, I have the satisfaction of going where the wind and currents are most favorable — the Willamette today, the Columbia tomorrow, the Salish Sea next weekend. Instead of paying moorage fees, I just roll her up my driveway at the end of the day. What I appreciate most about Row Bird are the possibilities. Even day sailing, I know we could keep going and going under sail or oar. We can duck into a tiny slough, plow across a strait, or tack up a narrow river. For a longer cruise, I can comfortably pack three week’s worth of supplies in her lockers, as I did when I journeyed on the Inside Passage. With a simple cockpit tent, I can sleep aboard at anchor, but Row Bird can still be beached just for fun. Nothing’s complicated, which is just the way I like it. The oars work flawlessly, their familiar creaks and splashes making a pleasant soundtrack to every adventure. And they never stink or run out of gas like a motor. In Row Bird, I feel close to the water. Each bump, each gust, each splash seems intimate. Although high enough and dry, I’m right down near the water, in the boat, not on it. We are one. We regularly sail the lower Columbia River estuary, where the afternoon sea breeze beats against the downward flow of the river, creating lumpy, challenging conditions. Secretly, I like the scary feeling that if I don’t pay careful attention, the boat and I could end up more in the water than I’d like — although we rarely do. When I look at my boat’s components, I relish the stories and friends that come to mind. The thwart is from an old bleacher, salvaged from a high school in Bellingham by Row Bird’s builder, Andy. Woodworker Bill Wessinger and I rebuilt the floorboards. When I look at the sails we made, I’m grateful for my sailmaker’s sewing lessons (see Gone Sewing in the August 2022 issue of 48° North). The nick in the gunwale takes me back to a windstorm and the debris that came flying at me that day. The French whipping on the tiller holds sweat stains from a frightening crossing of the Strait of Georgia. And the boat’s name evokes the memory of my mom, Roberta. Someday, I may be too old to raise her mast alone, hoist the sails, or row against the current. When that happens, I’ll know it’s time for a different boat. But for now, I anticipate many more years of adventuring with Row Bird. For now, I’m still feeling the love. You can catch Bruce Bateau’s seminar Be Here Now: Stories from the Inside Passage at the 2022 Wooden Boat Festival in Port Townsend on Saturday, Sept. 10 from 9:30 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. Through a one-man short-story show (with costume changes!) Bruce will take the audience aboard Row Bird for the 400-mile journey, regaling listeners with tales of rowing long days, encounters with whales, peaceful anchorages, running rapids, and sailing across the Strait of Georgia.

Row Bird under sail on a sunny summer’s day. Being beachable is another positive of a small boat.

48º NORTH 19 SEPTEMBER 2022 those lapstrake planks and wooden oars stayed with me; and, with surfing fading into my past, I was intrigued by the idea of exploring the world in a traditional craft.

Bruce Bateau sails and rows traditional boats with a modern twist in Portland, Oregon. His stories and adventures can be found at



Before having a professional rebuild an engine, it’s important to consider the various costs involved — for sourcing parts, the parts themselves, any machining required, and the labor for disassembling and reassembling the engine. A good mechanic or shop can help you determine whether a rebuild will save time and money and be worth it in the end.




For boaters whose engines suffer due to excessive idling and low-speed conditions, poor maintenance, and shoddy repairs, the average hours for a tired sailboat or even powerboat engine are closer to 4,000 to 5,000 hours if the engine is wellmaintained. More common with the engines I see is closer to 2,000 to 3,000 hours before they need a serious overhaul. Don’t be afraid to run your engine hard. It will appreciate it!

This question can have several answers. Of course, good maintenance and repair will make an engine last a long time. I often hear, “Oh, a diesel will easily reach 10,000-plus hours.” But that is rare. Diesel engines are quite capable of reaching 10,000 hours or more — however, the life they live aboard a recreational vessel is a tough one, making it hard to achieve that limit.

If you are planning to be away from your boat for long periods of time, I would highly advise having a friend or hired professional come to the vessel to start and run the engine Meredith Anderson

The work of a diesel mechanic can be messy, but the rewards are worth it. T hroughout my career, I have been asked many questions about what I do and why, or for tips and tricks to keep customers’ engines happy and healthy. Here are some of the most common questions I get and how I typically respond.

Some engines are very forgiving when it comes time for an overhaul. Universal’s diesel engines, which are built by Kubota and have removable cylinder liners, are a good example. It is still relatively easy and affordable to find complete rebuild kits with new pistons, rings, bearings, and liners, and the machining work required is usually simple, making a rebuild feasible.

That question also has numerous answers, depending on the situation. If the engine is no longer supported by the manufacturer, parts are difficult to find, or the damage is such that a rebuild could be very expensive (for example, a cracked engine block in which cold stitching may be needed), a rebuild could easily exceed the cost of a new engine.

Remember, a diesel engine’s happy place is 80% to 100% under load, yet many owners want to save on fuel or tend to baby their engines by rarely revving them up high enough. Many engines aren’t started often enough and when they are, they’re idled excessively to maneuver out of the marina and immediately shut down for sailing or run at slower speeds while cruising. For those of us in the Pacific Northwest, where the wind can be iffy in summer, we motor our way up north for a few weeks and our engines are much happier, since they are being operated hard under load for hours of cruising time.

There are also engines that were designed to be somewhat disposable (such as raw water-cooled engines). These engines were a cheaper alternative to their freshwater-cooled counterparts, are no longer supported by manufacturers, and even if they can be rebuilt with new parts, the block and cooling passages inside the block are often too badly damaged from seawater to be repaired to like-new condition.

I started my career as a marine engineer and eventually transitioned into self-employment. To begin my commercial career on the ocean, I attended Massachusetts Maritime Academy, where I gained the sea time and U.S. Coast Guard licenses to work as a professional merchant mariner. The recreational world doesn’t have quite the same resources.



The worst thing I have ever seen onboard a boat was water pouring in from a stern tube flange on a large wooden boat. When I went to take a closer look, I realized the area of wood was completely rotted around the stern tube and if I pushed hard enough, I could create a hole. The boat was hauled out shortly after that and the problem was fixed right away.

No mechanic has all the answers … and that’s OK! For jobs I’m stumped by, I can call for another professional’s consultation to help me diagnose the issue. Many of my friends are mechanics, surveyors, marine engineers, or marine electrical engineers who can talk me through a problem if I am truly at a loss about what to Workingdo. as a self-employed marine mechanic has opened many doors for me, and the experience of getting to work with so many amazing clients has been a blast. Getting to know who is working on your boat is always a smart idea. I hope answering these common questions has helped, and I look forward to seeing you on the water! The author assesses a prop with a client.

The strangest and funniest thing I’ve encountered while working on a vessel was during a diagnostic call onboard a sailboat in Seattle. The client called me for a second opinion on why his engine would not start after another marine diesel company had looked at it. He mentioned that the engine was running until he heard a large bang and the engine just stopped — and would not start or turn over again. The first mechanic was sure it was a blown head gasket. I opened up the hatch to the engine bay and found a piece of cast iron lying (rather obviously) in the bilge. As I looked further, I immediately found a gaping hole in the side of the engine block where a connecting rod had been thrown. “I don’t think your head gasket is blown. I think you need a new engine,” I told him.



A mechanic’s hourly rate isn’t their take-home pay. The cost to run my business is quite expensive in the state of Washington. Aside from my schooling to be a marine engineer, I have had to invest in thousands of dollars worth of tools more than once (thanks to thieves), keep my business licenses and permits active, pay for business insurance and business vehicle insurance, maintain and operate my service vehicles, pay waste disposal fees and rising fuel costs, rent a shop to rebuild engines, and much more. So I adjust my rates to reflect my overhead and expenses.


48º NORTH 21 SEPTEMBER 2022 under load for a minimum of 30 minutes at least once a month. Get the engine(s) up to temp, shift them into forward and reverse and run them hard (don’t idle them!) and they will thank you by the time cruising season rolls around again. An engine that sits is an engine that dies. Keeping fuel tanks full is always a good idea to avoid issues with condensation. Don’t forget, we all use low-sulfur fuel, which has an affinity for water. It is also a good idea to treat fuel with a biocide to prevent microbial growth throughout the year at every fill-up. For more information about fuel treatments and preventative maintenance for fuel systems, check out my article on diesel fuel systems (see 48° North April 2022).


Yes! There are many different opportunities for learning more about the diesel engine on your boat. Seattle Maritime Academy in Ballard and Cruisers College in Anacortes offer recreational diesel courses. There are independent instructors like me who teach diesel concepts and hands-on skills with live training engines to individuals and groups such as yacht clubs. The Seattle Boat Show is another good resource for diesel classes. Most of these classes are held over the weekend and provide a good foundation for understanding what is going on in your engine compartment. Many of us also branch out in a variety of ways to teach these concepts for those who can’t come to a class.

While the commercial industry requires a lot of experience to even get hired, the recreational industry has almost no requirements. Getting hired at a local boatyard or as an apprentice under a marine tradesman will help to gain experience to become indispensable. Local schools teach specialty courses in boatbuilding, engines, electrical, and more for a certification to get started.

There are community colleges and small schools that will teach marine trades. Many folks go through ABYC (American Boat & Yacht Council) classes to get started.

This beacon might be the most remarkable in Washington. Part of a chain of lighthouses spanning the Washington coast, it is the state’s tallest, rising 107 feet above a thicket of seagrass and dense vegetation. Lighthouse architect Carl W. Leick reportedly considered it to be his masterpiece — and many observers agree.

“If one had to choose the most impressive watchtower in the Pacific Northwest from an architectural standpoint,” wrote maritime historian James Gibbs, “chances are it would be Grays Harbor Lighthouse.” Its sleek white tower and Italianate flourishes were featured on a postage stamp in 2007. While this beacon now stands a half-mile upland from the high tide line, it continues to guide mariners to the southern entrance of Grays Harbor, lighting the way from Point Chehalis.

Located on the traditional lands of the Chehalis people, the beacon was also called the Westport Lighthouse after the community that grew around the logging and fishing industries more than a century ago. The United States Lighthouse Board


by Lisa Mighetto

The setting is not typical for coastal lights in the Pacific Northwest. While many beacons sit high above the sea on dramatic bluffs (see the column on North Head in the November 2021 issue of 48° North), the Grays Harbor Lighthouse rests on a sandstone foundation in the middle of low-lying coastal dunes, making its great height necessary. The tower was placed nearer to the water in 1898, but over the years land accretion has extended the beach, increasing the distance to the pounding waves. Today, the top remains visible from the sea, soaring above the trees that now surround the lighthouse.

48º NORTH 22 SEPTEMBER 2022 Beacon Background22


Construction proceeded quickly in the late 1890s. “The big tower,” observed one reporter during construction, “is climbing skyward as fast as an army of expert men can lift it.” This speed did not affect the quality, as “Leick allows nothing but first-class material” (Seattle Daily Times, October 3, 1897). The station, which was dedicated in a ceremony in 1898, was the pride of Westport. It included a tower, fog signal building, windmill, water tank, two oil storage houses, and two dwellings — one for the head keeper and one for the assistant keepers. The octagonal tower was made of brick covered by cement, eventually painted white. Cast iron brackets, window hoods, and a front gable over the workroom added to the visual appeal of this otherwise utilitarian structure. A long series of metal steps spiraled up to the lantern room, which housed a thirdorder “clamshell” Fresnel lens, manufactured by Henry-Lepaute of Paris in 1895. This device floated in a drum of 20 gallons of mercury, allowing for a smooth, frictionless rotation by a weight that hung inside the tower. The light produced alternating red and white flashes.

THE KEEPERS Christian Zauner, the light station’s first head keeper, arrived in 1898 with his wife and two daughters. Born in Austria, Zauner had transferred from the beacon at Destruction Island — and he remained at the Grays Harbor lighthouse until his retirement in 1925. Nighttime responsibilities included adjusting the oil lamp that provided the light source for the lens, which was polished during the day. According to Zauner’s log, maintaining the fog signal system was an especially arduous task.

Grays Harbor Lighthouse, 1959. Photo courtesy of StateWashingtonArchives.

The Coast Guard automated the Grays Harbor beacon in the 1960s. The light, once fueled by kerosene, was replaced with a smaller electric unit in the 1990s. The original Fresnel lens remains in the tower alongside the new light, which visitors can view during tours operated by the Westport South Beach Historical Society. Today, mariners near Westport look for the light’s signature flash of white followed by 15 seconds of darkness, then red followed by 15 seconds. They join the sailors who for more than a century have relied on this stately beacon — Washington’s tallest and perhaps most beautiful — to point the way home. For more information, Lisa Mighetto is a historian and sailor living in Seattle.


48º NORTH 23 SEPTEMBER 2022 initially considered a shorter, less powerful harbor beacon for this site. During the late 19th century, however, Grays Harbor became a timber port of global significance, dependent on maritime shipping. A major coastal light was a more suitable aid to the vessels arriving from distant locations to enter the treacherous waters of the Washington coast. Accordingly, the Grays Harbor light station included a lens that could be seen for 20 miles at sea, along with a fog signal.

“It requires one’s whole attention to keep steam pressure up to the notch,” he wrote. During the early 20th century, the fog signal burned and was replaced with an oil-fired device. Several accounts of his tenure at this lighthouse note that Zauner detected major earthquakes around the world by observing the weight hanging from the tower stairs, which would sometimes swing violently. No keeper at the Grays Harbor Lighthouse stayed longer than Zauner, who continued to live in Grays Harbor after retiring, settling into a house just a few blocks from the station.

Arvel Settles, whose boisterous family eventually moved to the Lime Kiln station (see column in July 2022 issue of 48° North), arrived in 1930. He, his wife, and five children resided in the main house, visiting Aberdeen for supplies to supplement government provisions. “There was always a full ham hanging in the pantry,” recalled one of his sons. Settles transferred to Lime Kiln in 1935, and Roy “Sharkey” Jacobsen became head keeper. When the U.S. Coast Guard and the Lighthouse Service merged in 1939, “Sharkey” signed on as a coast guardsman and remained at the station until his retirement in 1945.

Grays Harbor Lighthouse, 2022. Photo by Lisa Mighetto.

The fog signal building became operational in 1899. A windmill pumped well water to a coal-fired boiler, powering two trumpets that projected toward the water. The fog signal system burned up to 200 pounds of coal per hour when the trumpets were sounding.


Maggie has been rowing for over 20 years and is scheduling “experience rowing” sessions through the foundation at the Renton Rowing Center and other various locations. The foundation was formed in 1984, and its mission is that everyone deserves a team. Maggie called me one day after receiving my business card and asked if she could sign up for a private standup paddle lesson. We met near her boat, where she resides, and not only paddled, but talked about everything from the

The diagnosis was a disintegrated L4 and L5 vertebrae, along with a pinched nerve. Degenerative discs are not a stranger to my family, and this moment in my life made me realize that there is a relationship between trauma and physical manifestation of trauma. I had the option of surgery, but I said no and instead chose a lifelong path of good health, a strong core, and will.



by Erica Lichty Coach Maggie and the author on the crew boat.

Twenty-plus years later, the rowing community found me again, or vice versa. I took the opportunity to get in a double with my mother, an avid rower to this day; reunited with my high school rowing coach, Lee Kullina; and am building an incredible relationship with Maggie Christopher, a coach with the George Pocock Rowing Foundation.

Coming home from school one day at age 16, my mom threw me a set of car keys and said, “It’s a stick shift. You have to be at practice in the morning, so I guess you had better take her around the block a few times.” The next thing I know, it’s zero-dark-thirty and I am in third gear in a beater Volvo station wagon rumbling down I-5 heading to crew. We were the Bad News Bears of high school rowing groups. Every one of us was so completely different from the other on the outside, but we pulled, and pulled together. Every morning we came together in the cold, stomping our feet to stay warm. I appreciated my rowing years for just that — it brought together so many, of different shapes and sizes and backgrounds and interests. But we had an affinity for the water, and a cadence. I miss that camaraderie.

I came to love sculling and eventually found my perfect partner for a powerhouse double. By junior year we were cleaning up at races, and at regionals it became obvious we had a chance at continuing our racing at a collegiate level. Then, at age 17, I woke up one morning and wasn't able to walk.

Coach Maggie going over safety and training strategy for the day. The morning commute at Pocock; rowers coming on and off the water.

I had a very informative and inspiring meeting with Tom Kellett, head coach and boathouse manager. Sitting out on the sunny balcony above the boathouse dock, where kids swarmed about grabbing oars and kicking off shoes, we told each other our stories. I anticipate moments like these, when you open up with people and make connections and relate, or simply listen and learn. I admire what College Club is setting about to do; despite the exclusivity that could be perceived in its name, the club is creating community, offering a gathering space that is centered around healthy lifestyles and appreciating one of the best things the Pacific Northwest has to offer, her waters. I share many of these same goals, as one of the things my nonprofit SEASTR aims to do is get youth engaged with their environment, to open up the possibilities of doing hard things and maybe having fun while they’re at it. People like Tom are not afraid of adaptivity. The essence of rowing is essential to us. Rowing icon George Popcok summed it up as: “Harmony. Balance. Rhythm.” And we can practice that mantra in all we do. College Club is a rowing club, yes, but it contains a variety of vessels. It is a training facility, but it has inviting spaces so you can slow down and connect with others. It is a club, but a willingness to try new things is the ticket in. I’m writing this on a sunny evening, looking out the window of my apartment in Boston Harbor in South Puget Sound. I yearn to be sailing with those on the horizon, paddling with the seals, rowing on the calm water, surfing with the pelicans, and I know that having the passion for something directly related to my environment allows me to have connectivity. Even alone, as a single, self-employed mom with no office mates and no partner, I amRowingwhole.gave me a tool. Someone put a paddle in my hand, I dipped it into the water and I flew. Even when life has seemed too tough to imagine not flying away, I know I can touch the sea. I have the skills and the courage to get out on the coldest of days and keep myself warm, to appreciate the Pacific Northwest in her darkest months. Out on the water there is an awesome community, and I mean awesome in the true sense of the word. When we push ourselves past our comfort zones, we discover things that we would not have otherwise known. And if we continue to do so, we are setting the best example for the next generation. Giving a young person the tools to deal with what may lay ahead is crucial. Giving them the opportunity is my dream, and that can all start on the water.

There were smiles for days, even when one student actually tipped his shell three times, and every time he clambered back in gingerly, took a few deep breaths and continued on. Now that’s perseverance and growth. We tended to this flock from underneath Seattle’s University Bridge to Gas Works Park and then scooted across the northern tip of Lake Union. We passed back by Pocock under the bridge and into Portage Bay all the way to the Montlake Cut. I love paddling through the cut and reading all the high school and university slogans and fighting words, all in good sport … maybe (wink wink).

Another gem I’ve found on Lake Union is College Club Seattle. Many people told me to head over there and ask about their stand-up paddle program, and I discovered that the club is a rowing facility that offers so much more. Founded in 1910 as a private men's club in downtown Seattle, the current club is changing the dialogue. It abandoned the traditional private club model and moved onto two houseboats on the shores of Lake Union. The two houseboats are called the M/V Unity and the M/V Inspiration. Both vessels have three floors, and together they contain 14,745 square feet of space.

48º NORTH 25 SEPTEMBER 2022 SEVENTY48 race to nonprofits and potential BIPOC programs and outreach. Once again, the water brings us together. I asked Maggie if I could ride along with her in the launch to document a rowing class. We met at the Pocock boathouse at 6:30 a.m., where she began her morning briefing with the sculling class, the next step after the Learn to Row program. Again, I found myself in a boathouse with a group of people from all walks of life coming together to learn something new, taking a chance and challenging themselves. In my element? Yes. It was a pleasant morning, the sun was out and the water feathered … and there was quite a bit of traffic.

After getting through that morning session, we debriefed with the class on the dock, shaking off the less than stellar moments and commenting on everyone’s progress. Then Maggie and I headed to Eastlake Coffee for our own debriefing about how access is key and how we can get rowing into more local communities.

Erica Lichty is the founder of the non-profit, SEASTR, which was founded to optimize the human/environment connection, using water to engage women in their own process of healing and evolution, making a difference for themselves, their families, and their communities.

To keep our mileage average high enough to stay on schedule (only a bit more than two months to cover 1,600 miles of coastline from south to north) we sailed short passages of up to four days when the wind blew strong in the correct direction for us. In between, during periods of light or adverse wind, we took very short hops or explored on land. TO TOWNSEND, USA by Peter and Ginger Niemann Irene’s route through Japan.


Weeks later, after we arrived in Naha and had a chance to observe the local scene, we understood better — with a big U.S. military presence in Okinawa, it’s easy to see why informal American English is spoken and understood. We paused there long enough to quarantine and put a new coat of bottom paint on Irene before we started island-hopping.


Ginger wasn’t sure what to expect about cruising Japan. During our time aboard Irene in quarantine in Singapore, we had read and heard stories of difficulties cruising there. When she corresponded with various Japanese bureaucracies, she despaired at the complexity of the requirements. It seemed like every email revealed new hurdles.Asshe worked at the computer, Ginger suddenly burst out laughing, “Listen to our arrival instructions from Naha Coast Guard.”“What’s up?” she read. “Now look, you’re gonna wanna tie up to the pier just before the bridge.” In contrast to the very formal, almost stilted language she had come to expect, a Japan Coast Guard officer had written perfect American slang. Our laugh foreshadowed more delightful surprises we enjoyed during our three-month cruise up the Japanese island chain.



FAREWELL JAPAN We arrived on schedule at Kushiro, our last port in Japan before heading offshore to the Aleutian Islands of Alaska. Warm clear water, tradewind breezes, and vacation culture in the southern Okinawan islands had reminded us of Hawaii in some ways. At Kushiro, in contrast, on the northern island of Hokkaido, we were reminded of Alaska. On the waterfront, a chill wind blew off a cold gray ocean. Kushiro is a working town, and offshore fishing industry infrastructure was prominent. Dusty streets and peeling paint on buildings suggested hard and cold winters.Shivering in the cold and wind, our bodies were still acclimatized to tropical heat. But we didn’t mind because it was exciting to realize that we were finally about to head into the North Pacific on the next leg of our journey home. And Irene’s cabin was wonderfully warm because our reliable Reflex diesel drip heater was pumping out dry and even heat.

Irene’s track across the North Pacific from Japan to Alaska to Washington.

There were many rumors about cruising in Japan, but what would we find? First, we discovered the food to be amazingly tasty and high quality. A person could eat quite well by shopping only at convenience marts, similar to the revered 7-Eleven. Try that in the USA! We had been led to expect the people to be earnest, friendly, and helpful, and this turned out to be completely true. We had also expected the sailing to be difficult and dangerous, based on prevailing wisdom. This turned out to be untrue, at least for us along our route up the west coast.

TRUTH: Just point a smartphone at characters that need

RUMOR: Japan is best visited by air rather than by sailing.

TRUTH: Changes over the last few years have opened up the possibilities. A cruiser can visit many small fishing ports now, and there are hundreds of them. Most of the small fishing ports we visited were free of charge and adjacent to charming small villages.

TRUTH: Japan gave us some of the most interesting and unusual cruising we’ve ever encountered, and the sailing itself was actually very good.

Peter poses with a statue in Japan.

RUMOR: Provisioning is difficult, with exotic food and unreadable packaging. And no one can help you because English is not widely spoken.

TRUTH: Skippers with vessels equipped with radar and AIS and the skills to use them will have no difficulty. Fog, seaweed and traffic are very similar to those same challenges in many parts of the Pacific coast of North America.

RUMOR: Currents, seaweed, fog, heavy shipping and fishing boat traffic make coastwise sailing dangerous.


RUMOR: Cruisers are not allowed to explore at will, and are restricted to only a few industrial ports in expensive marinas.

translating. Like magic, English words appear. And if a young person is nearby, it is very likely that they speak enough English to be able to help. Japan seems to be well-served by food stores of all types. It was rarely more than a very short walk for us to find what we needed, and provisioning had never been easier or more interesting.

Attu is currently uninhabited, it shows lots of evidence of past military activity. There are ruins of buildings Dramatic seascapes abound throughout Alaska.



One of many unique landing spots for Irene’s tender. Rowing around a shipwreck in Kiska.

We left in a good strong wind, setting only mizzen and jib and making good progress in the 6- to 7-knot range — Irene’s sweet spot. Over the years, we’ve learned to always leave a body of land in a good wind if possible. It’s disheartening to slowly and painfully sail away, or even worse, motor away from land. After all, on a passage, the departure is the only time you can reliably choose your weather. During the voyage, the mizzen was cycled from full to first reef to second reef and back to full mizzen many times. As was the jib, from full to two or three rolls on the furler and to almost completely furled. Eastbound lows swept by us every few days, so as the wind shifted, our point of sail varied from close reach to broad reach. But the mainsail was never needed. And more remarkably, we never had to heave to. The wind and sea never increased to such an intensity. But the seas were rough and we were damp and cold. Condensation ran down the bulkheads in rivulets. Cushions and bedding were constantly damp. We couldn’t even read off-watch, as our glasses fogged up instantly.

Irene arrived in Attu, the westernmost part of the USA, nine days and 1,350 nautical miles later, still sailing under mizzen and jib. Our spirits soared as we approached in a thick fog. Dodging and weaving per radar and plotter, Irene sailed past islets that we never saw. We hardened up close-hauled, then tacked to point directly at Navy Cove — at least, so the chart plotter promised. Then, miraculously, we could first see the outlines of land, and as we dropped anchor the fog lifted a few hundred feet to show the whole lower part of the bay. It was stunningly beautiful, with lush green hills partially obscured by wispy clouds and spotlighted by patches of brilliant sunlight. The scene was so calm and quiet after the noisy week on the open ocean. Blissfully free from keeping watches, we slept soundly that night while the heater drove all the moisture out of the cabin.Although

With our stomachs full after dinner we drowsed happily, and heard a knock on the hull and a shout. It was Seki-san, the agent who would help us clear out of Japan, fresh from Tokyo. He had jumped on the train as soon as he heard we were in Kushiro. We invited him down below and Ginger prepared snacks and warm drinks, and we heard stories of sailing in the area. He had sailed both to Russia and Dutch Harbor several times, and we listened carefully to his suggestions. He warned us to avoid an area where large drift nets were routinely set, and suggested that we stay well offshore of the Kuril Islands. With Seki-san’s help the exit procedures went smoothly, and we were free to sail. After a last check of tide and weather, we were ready to go. Seki-san untied our dock lines and we set off down river, with Seki-san waving from the quay. As we cleared the river mouth and started hoisting sail, Ginger gave a shout and pointed. It was Seki-san, just a dot on the breakwater at the river mouth and still waving. She called out, “We’re gonna miss Japan!” TO ALASKA

Irene at anchor in Navy Cove on Attu, the westernmost part of the USA.


48º NORTH 30 SEPTEMBER 2022 and piers, rusting equipment, and roads with signs warning of unexploded ordnance. But no people, just thousands of birds. We rowed ashore daily and walked for miles and miles. After a few days of island exploration, we were ready to start sailing northeast, island-hopping up the Aleutian chain towards Dutch Harbor on Unalaska. An overnight hop brought us to Kiska, where we anchored in 35 feet of water over beautiful black sand.Kiska is also deserted. It shows even more evidence of wartime — the Allies bombed the heck out of it in WWII. We could see scars and eroded bomb craters in the hills behind the beach in front of our anchorage. We launched the dinghy and rowed ashore. It was fascinating to poke through the wartime debris – aircraft engines jumbled together with heavy equipment, kitchen utensils, boat parts. One part was marked in Japanese, another next to it in English.

Our time in Dutch passed in a blur — catching up with friends, clearing customs, internet, fixing broken stuff, purchasing a replacement kerosene lamp, inoculations, hiking, refueling and reprovisioning. We celebrated completing an eastbound circumnavigation (as we had just crossed our outbound track) at the Norwegian Rat Saloon. It turned out that Captain Karl of Muktuk is wonderfully skilled at engine repair and sorted our failed front seal and a stuck circulation pump. Mate Ali has encyclopedic knowledge of local flora and fauna, not to mention her gourmet cooking. After seeing almost no one for weeks, we were in a social whirl. It was wonderful and we partied until we began to feel exhausted. We needed to put to sea again just to get some rest. Celebrating their eastbound circumnavigation at the Norwegian Rat Saloon in Dutch Harbor. Remnants of a bygone era on Attu.

between two big bodies of water, the North Pacific and the Bering Sea, each of which produce wave trains of different types that collide in the islands. The tides are big, causing strong currents, and gales or near-gales are frequent but with short duration. Also, there is fog. A lot of fog. The wind is chopped up and funneled between the islands; therefore it makes sense to avoid traveling directly in the chain. Instead, it’s better to plan hops either in the Pacific or in the Bering Sea. The wind seemed to be usually stronger than ideal or painfully light, and we had read that some sailors preferred to motor in calms and wait out the periods of high wind at anchor. But distances are large and fuel requirements can be significant, and passing time in anchorages is more pleasant during calm periods. Accordingly, we adopted the opposite tactic by sailing in high wind and anchoring and exploring in calms as much as possible. Given this strategy, it wasn’t surprising that we approached the busy Dutch Harbor in a gale. Irene was driving hard under just a tiny bit of sail set, with spray flying high as we passed the containership port. We wondered if we would be able to make the final turns into the tight international dock under power, considering the windage on our rig. Ginger hailed the harbormaster without response, but received a call back from a familiar name. The Austrian sailing vessel Muktuk, which we had last seen in Nome four years ago, was tied up at the international dock and let us know that the basin was protected enough from this wind to maneuver.

Another hop brought us to Adak, an inhabited island at last, and where it was rumored that fuel might be available. But the place seemed completely deserted, and Ginger got no answer from her calls on VHF radio. We tied up to a wall in a small boat harbor. We had just decided to go for a walk when a small pickup truck drove up, and we met our first American since arriving in the U.S. over a week ago. The friendly driver said a fuel truck was on the way. “No one would stop here if they didn’t want diesel!” he said. As we were filling the tank, we learned that his Aleut grandmother had lived on Attu and been evacuated as the island was militarized in WWII. The human costs of war can persist for generations. Sailing here is complicated. The Aleutians are on the border

48º NORTH 31 SEPTEMBER 2022 HOME AT LAST Irene has previously traveled between Dutch Harbor and Neah Bay on two different paths, and we had a choice: a long trip of day hops and overnights up the Alaskan peninsula and across to Southeast Alaska then down the Inside Passage, or a simple direct open sea crossing of the Gulf of Alaska. Considering that the Inside Passage of British Columbia was closed, it was easy to choose the direct route. Thus, we departed in a good wind, as we prefer, and pointed Irene’s bow directly at Neah Bay.We sailed quickly into the fog and did not emerge until a week later. The wind began to ease as the sun began to shine. The cover of the mainsail came off for the first time on this passage and we hoisted it in sight of the glorious mountains of Vancouver Island. A day and a half later we dropped the hook in Neah Bay just after sunset. As we’d experienced before along this COVID-19 journey from Turkey to Port Townsend, we were not allowed ashore because of the pandemic. Sigh. The next day Irene had a rollicking run down the Strait of Juan de Fuca and anchored at Port Townsend. Here we were allowed ashore, and Ginger announced, “We’re gonna wanna drink a beer!” So we rowed ashore to the beach in front of the Pourhouse. We were truly home and that beer tasted just fine! Originally from Seattle, Peter and Ginger Niemann now call Port Townsend home after two circumnavigations. They were awarded the Cruising Club of America's Blue Water Medal in 2022. The view on approach to Adak. LEAVE THEM IN YOUR WAKE! SHOW YOUR WINNING COLORS WITH MLX3™ RUNNING RIGGING Available in four colors and multiple sizes, MLX3 by Samson has a lightweight but tough-as-nails HMPE braided core with a 24-strand polyester cover that you can strip to cut weight. Perfect for winning.


Working our way along the northwestern shore of Orcas Island, I counted five boats with full sails enjoying the summer sun and breeze. All five were rally participants, and as the lead boat, I was happy to see our crews sailing well toward the next destination. I could also spot the lone powerboat in this year’s rally, the custom, all-electric catamaran Electric Philosophy pressing through the waves and using the sun for fuel. With a backdrop of the San Juan Islands, the scene was truly a moment of beauty. This is exactly the type of day I had hoped for when I was asked to lead this year’s 48° North-Ullman Sails Cruising Rally along with Chuck Skewes from Ullman Sails. Chuck is a veteran of these annual rallies, so I appreciated his guidance in getting things started and keeping the rally running smoothly throughout the week. Using a friend’s Ericson 33 that we dubbed Mothership, the two of us met the rally participants — eight boats in total — at San Juan Island Brewing Co. in Friday Harbor on July 31 for an opening meet and greet. Chuck explained that the concept of the rally is to get boat owners together for a week of cruising in company throughout the stunning islands of the Salish Sea. This year it was the San Juan Islands; other years it has been the Gulf Islands. Along the way, we’d ofter up tips on anchoring and rafting, route planning, knot-tying, and anything else that participants wanted to learn.Of course, we all know that the San Juan Islands in the height of the summer cruising season can be a busy place, which meant we needed to be fluid with the week’s schedule. Accordingly, Chuck and I explained that our itinerary for each day would be kept open, allowing us to make adjustments based on how crowded certain anchorages might be and what the weather would allow. Also, a core principle by Andy Cross


The group's first raft up at Jones Island. A typical day of sailing during this year’s rally. The rally crews at Spencer’s Spit on Lopez Island.

The author watches sunset from the bow of Mothership in Fox Cove.

On Monday morning, the first day of August, we shaped a course from bustling Friday Harbor to the north cove on Jones Island. With a south breeze predicted, we figured this would be a great spot for our first night. When Chuck and I arrived, the typical array of boats were coming and going from the park’s mooring buoys and dock. Our plan was to anchor, sterntie to shore and then set up a raft of rally boats. We found an adequate spot to the west of the park dock, and after getting our anchor and stern line set, we helped each boat come in and do the same. Our eight-boat raft didn’t actually take up much space in the cove, and that night, crews mingled from boat to boat sharing stories from the day, and food and beverages. Collectively, we decided that time to explore the island was in store for the next day, and that decision didn’t disappoint. Tuesday dawned sunny and clear, and crews took advantage of the nice weather to kayak around the cove, soak up some sun on the beach, and stretch their legs on the island’s many scenic trails. Indeed, Jones Island is an absolute gem,


48º NORTH 33 SEPTEMBER 2022 of the rally is that each boat decides what is best for them, taking into account the conditions and their abilities — and we wanted crews to feel like they were welcome to come and go as they needed. Alas, the “keep it loose plan” worked. Here are a few of my highlights from an incredible week of cruising with new friends.

AN ORCA SHOW While anchored at Fox Cove on Sucia Island, an unexpectedly strong southerly wind kicked up in the early hours of the morning, which caused us and boats from several nearby bays to scatter. That can happen, and we adjusted the plan to deal with it on the fly. All the crews were diligent in making a quick departure to keep all the boats safe, and the rewards were worth the extra effort. Not only was the breeze great for sailing, but we were treated to an epic orca show.

Reviewing and techniques outside the Shaw Island General Store.

We were heading southwest between Waldron Island and Orcas Island when Chuck said, “I think I just saw a spout!” Sure enough, a pod of what turned out to be six orcas was feeding just south of Point Disney. Keeping our distance, we drifted and watched through the binoculars as they dove out of the water time and again, swirling one way in a frenzy and then back. If we were playing a game of “Cruising the San Juan Islands Bingo,” this was surely a winning spot on our card!

If there was one place that Chuck and I had hoped we’d be able to stop on the rally, it was Doe Bay. We’d both been there multiple times before and thought it would make for a great last stop, allowing participants to head nearly any direction they needed to the following day. With a bucketload of crab from a successful haul at Spencer’s Spit, we cut through Peavine Pass and made for the small nook on the east side of Orcas Island. On approach, we were surprised to not see a single other cruising boat anchored in the bay or at nearby Doe Island.

When our hook was set, I cooked our catch and then we made for shore to poke around the grounds at Doe Bay Resort — a quaint spot with cabins, a small general store, and a cafe. The heat of the afternoon sun beckoned for a cold beverage under a shade tree, and as we looked out over Rosario Strait, a couple of our rally boats trickled in. With some participants needing to head for their homeports, which was expected, we ended up with three boats for our final night in Doe Bay.

Wanting to share our crab, we all scrounged what was left of our provisions and headed to a quiet picnic spot on Doe Island to feast. The crab was devoured quickly and with appetites not fully quenched, the group decided to meet that night at the cafe for a parting meal together. Doe Bay Cafe is a real treat. If you’ve never been, put it on your list. The food was delicious and the company was even better, making it the perfect way to cap yet another successful 48° North-Ullman Sails Cruising Rally.






SSYC Benefit Race to Fight Hunger Benefitting Northwest Harvest Flamingo Philanthropy September 17, 2022 • Dinner, dance, and auctions Ballard Elks 6411 Seaview Ave NW, Seattle, WA 98117 Visit or < Scan to purchase race registration and dinner tickets and preview auction catalog. A portion of the crab catch throughout the week.

Spencer’s Spit is a favorite anchorage for novice to seasoned San Juan Islands cruisers alike. Jutting out from the northeast side of Lopez Island, Spencer’s Spit State Park has mooring buoys and anchorage available on both sides — making it good in a south or north breeze. We found plenty of room on the northeast end of the spit to employ a raft-up technique that we call “The Zipper.” In this setup, boats alternate bows and sterns, with each boat setting an anchor off its bow. In our case, we placed the south-facing bows into the wind and the northfacing bows into potential wakes from passing boats. With five of us rafted in zipper formation, one on a mooring buoy, and another anchored, we enjoyed yet another sunny Pacific Northwest afternoon. The continued nice weather was almost hard to believe. Crab traps were set and then we all headed to shore for a happy hour potluck and knot-tying session in the old log cabin at the end of the spit. This was my favorite gathering that we had as a group. It was the second-tolast night of the rally and we’d all become well-acquainted with one another by this point, making conversation light, fun and jovial. This is what group cruising is all about.

Andy Cross is the editor of 48° North After years cruising the PNW and Alaska with his family aboard their Grand Soleil 39, Yahtzee, they sailed south and are currently in the Caribbean Sea. to know boat’s Y-Valve and keep it secured to protect Puget Sound.




While sailing rallies certainly aren’t for everyone, they do offer a lot in the way of camaraderie, connection, learning, and experience that you can’t get anywhere else. Throughout islands and anchorages, our crews went with the flow of a changing itinerary, all the while growing into a cohesive unit that assisted one another and shared a lot of laughs in the process. If you and your crew are so inclined, we’d love to have you join us next year!

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A week to the day after leaving Anacortes for the start of the rally in Friday Harbor, Chuck and I nosed the Mothership back into her slip at Anacortes Marina. We hosed off the deck and cockpit, vacuumed the cabin, washed the dishes, cleaned out the icebox, and tidied up the dinghy. Looking back on the week, we reminisced about the good times we’d had, the wonderful people who had now become friends, and the incredible streak of weather that we’d been fortunate enough to have. We felt ready to head back out and do it again.

Nav app to find the No Discharge Zone and locate a pumpout near you. PUMP OU T, DON ’ T DUMP OU T ! P r ot e c t P u g et S o u n d f r o m Ves s e l S e w a g e I t ’ s t h e L a w ( W A C 17 3 2 2 8 ) A stunning


Vessel sewage contains pathogens and viruses that can harm shellfish, close beaches, and make people sick. it matters: Pumpout sunset from Fox Cove, Sucia Island. Gorgeous Doe Bay, looking south down Rosario Strait.



by Andrew Nelson Seattle Yacht Club sailor Barrett Milne on day two. Photo by Sean Trew. CGRA packed to the gills with Optis. Photo by Sean Trew.

Erin has more than a decade of experience attending USODA events with her sons Owen and Alan. The term “Opti mom” might get a bad rap in some circles, but in Erin’s case, she proudly owns the title. Fortunately, she called my bluff, and by early 2020 we shipped our bid off to USODA, with strong encouragement from USODA Executive Director Beth Danilek. Then the pandemic hit and everything ground to a halt. Our bid was eventually accepted, but was postponed a year until July 2022. In hindsight, the extra year of preparation was greatly appreciated. The Zoom meetings began in fall 2021. As key personnel were confirmed, our meetings grew to include Eric Rimkus (principal race officer), Craig Daniels (chief judge), and Susan Winner, who decided to stay on one more year as CGRA events manager. The logistics were daunting. We needed about 40 on-water volunteers, housing for 10 judges and half a dozen VIPs, 15 race committee/ support boats, moorage for 20-plus coach boats, and space for vendors, not to mention all of the Optis! Although an Opti is only 7 ½ feet long, when there are 170 of them, they take up a lot of space. We lucked out in not exceeding 220 participants, as we would have probably broken the venue (and our volunteers). Most of us involved with planning had at least a few sleepless nights thinking about all the things that could go wrong. Our expectations for the event were high. We had promised visitors no-frills racing in a spectacular venue. CGRA isn’t a yacht club and has just two part-time employees. We rely almost exclusively on volunteers and dedicated board members to do the heavy lifting. Instead of restrooms with hot towels and lotion dispensers, we get by with a row of port-a-potties in the parking lot. It’s the consistently strong westerly winds and excellent race management that we wanted to highlight. We also encouraged visiting families to make this regatta their summer vacation and to spend time exploring the Gorge when not racing. Many families ended up staying in the Gorge for 10 days or more. With 500 people in town for the better part of two weeks, the economy of Cascade Locks enjoyed a significant bump, which hopefully offset any feelings of encroachment in a town with 1,100 residents.

48º NORTH 37 SEPTEMBER 2022 When I told people in 2019 that the Columbia Gorge Racing Association (CGRA) was thinking about putting in a bid for the USODA Optimist National Championships, I got a lot of responses, usually ranging between shocked and skeptical.CGRAprides itself on running topnotch events and has a long list of national, continental, and world championships under its belt, but this was arguably the most ambitious event we had taken on in a decade. An Opti nationals can draw up to 300 boats, but it’s not just the competitors — it’s the entourage of parents, siblings, coaches, vendors, and the army of volunteers that can easily triple the total number of people in attendance. Before we even submitted a bid, I asked Erin Timms if she would serve as regatta chair. During the regatta, I would be busy coaching. I could serve as CGRA’s regatta representative and lead the planning process, but we needed a capable and talented chair to manage the event while it was underway.

championships in Rio this fall. Those who didn’t attend Wind hadn’t really seen a big day on the river yet, and I even heard some competitors saying, “It’s not actually that windy here.” The first day of nationals was similar to the girls event the day before. The westerly wind oscillated back and forth with significant puffs and lulls, but never really exceeded 20 knots. Day two was a classic Gorge day that began with thick cloud cover to the west, cooler temperatures, and a brisk westerly. By midday the puffs were in the mid-20s. There were big grins and lots of stories being told on the beach and in the boat park. PRO Eric Rimkus and his team made efficient work of the first six races, and both days the competitors were back on the beach around 2:30 p.m. The judges kept the racing fair, were efficient with hearings, and issued a number of Rule 42 penalties on the water. With rising temperatures predicted and uncertainty about Sunday’s forecast, Eric made the decision to run four races on Saturday. It turned out to be one of the most epic days I’ve ever seen on our stretch of river. Winds were sustained over 20 knots all day, with gusts over 30. A buoy a couple of miles upriver of the racecourse even recorded a 40-knot gust at one point. The river was running strong too, which made for 3-foot standing waves in the channel near Stevenson. It was spectacular to watch some of the best Opti sailors in the country duke it out in these conditions. Silver was called off after three races, but the gold division stayed out and completed all four races. Puffs near 30 were still buffeting the race office at 5 p.m., so we had to cancel Green Fleet that evening. On the final day, the wind gods took pity on competitors. Racing got underway in a light westerly between 6 and 10 knots. No one was complaining. The Gorge had proven its point and earned everyone’s respect. With the light wind, competitors ended up being tested in a wide range of conditions throughout the four days. The end was bittersweet for local sailors Finn Deprez, Alan Timms, and Sebastian LeRoy, who all stayed in the Opti an extra year so they could sail nationals on their home turf. For them it was the end of an era, Day three action was sporty. Photo by Dave Shemwell.


races. This was fortunate for the girls, as no one wanted to start the four-day open nationals on tired legs. Based on the forecast, a couple of our local girls decided to do girls nationals at the last minute, including 9-year-old Reagan Starke.Before this summer, Reagan had only done some local Green Fleet racing and spent most of her time sailing in the sheltered waters around Gig Harbor. She gritted it out and finished all of her races on Wednesday, making her the youngest competitor to do so. She walked away from Wind and nationals a completely transformed sailor, with newfound confidence and determination. To some degree, this happened to every member of Team Northwest, which underscores the importance of sailing against good competition and in challenging conditions for days on end. Open nationals was scheduled for Thursday to Sunday, with three 40- to 50-minute races to be completed each day. The 150-boat championship fleet would be randomly divided into three heats for the first two days. At the halfway point, the fleet would then be broken into gold and silver divisions based on results from the first two days. On the line were USODA team trials invitations (top 50% of finishers) and a handful of berths to the South American continental

Nationals was preceded by the annual Wind Clinic and Wind Regatta a week earlier. Both had a special flavor, with dozens of Opti sailors from around the country arriving early to train. The Wind Clinic for both Lasers and Optis was sold out, with a record 110 sailors and 11 coaches total. A few days later, 65 Optis were packed on one starting line at the Wind Regatta. Wind week ended up being a great training opportunity for the sailors and race committee, and I got to know a lot of our local Opti sailors better. At nationals, I continued coaching these sailors from CYC Seattle, Olympia, Narrows, Willamette and Sail Sand Point as part of Team Northwest. After Wind wrapped up, the venue was officially open. By July 19, almost everyone had arrived for nationals. The river was full of teams out practicing, while others waited in line to measure in their equipment. Many of the sailors who participated in the clinics opted to take a well-deserved break to rest their legs, and some even returned home to sleep in their beds for a night or two.

Racing opened on Wednesday, July 20, with a one-day Girls National Championship featuring 58 boats. With five races in a day, girls nationals can be grueling. By Gorge standards, the winds were pretty moderate, topping out just shy of 20 knots for the final two

A big thank-you goes out to all of the volunteers, parents, and partner organizations for making this event a huge success. Although it was asking a lot of our volunteers, neighbors, and partners, I would 100% do it again. I think it’s extremely important that we bring national and international championships to the Northwest whenever we have the opportunity to do so — not just for the benefit of our sailors, but also to disprove the notion that the Northwest is some backwater place to race sailboats. We have some amazing venues to showcase here in addition to the Gorge. We also have a lot of the necessary talent and infrastructure to pull off these events when we collaborate. My advice to anyone considering hosting a major championship: just go for it!

Andrew Nelson is the Youth Sailing Director for The Sailing Foundation, a local non-profit dedicated to promoting boating safety and youth racing development. He is also a CGRA board member.


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“A‑Northwest Legend for Over 25 Years” but for other Northwest sailors it was just the beginning. Most of the sailors I coached had never attended a national championship before. Although none qualified for the gold fleet, it was a huge moment of growth and one that will likely have a big ripple effect on our region’s Opti scene. We found working with the class association a pleasure, and Executive Director Beth Danilek was always very supportive. The USODA has a lot of hosting requirements, but they do this to ensure events are well run and to protect their brand. It’s what strong class associations should do. The feedback from visiting families was overwhelmingly positive, with several saying this was the best Opti regatta they’d ever attended. Others promised to return for future events at the Gorge. Chicago Yacht Club coach Flor Cerutti had this to say: “The sailing conditions couldn’t be better and the sailing venue was perfect. Likewise, the people that were involved in the event made the biggest difference … All of them were super kind and helpful. Always with a super big smile and kind words. They made us feel as if we were at home.”




Sailing across the ocean has always been on “the list,” but for some reason, I wasn’t sure it would actually happen. It just seemed like such a far-fetched and crazy idea — and how many people really do something like that? Well, it happened, and it was an awesome time with an amazing group of people. I can happily say we are all better friends than when we started, which is not something to be taken lightly. Our noble steed for the 2022 Pacific Cup was the Seattlebased Aerodyne 43, Freja. She’s a modern racer-cruiser designed by Rodger Martin with a hull shape and sail plan based on the older sister Aerodyne 38. She has a non-overlapping sail plan, deep bulb keel, large asymmetrical spinnakers and an impressive interior. We lovingly refer to her as a Cadillac — big and comfy with extravagant features, not trying to kill you, but when you put your foot into it she lets loose and takes off. The race started with an overcast San Francisco sky and wind in the upper 20s heading out from the Golden Gate Bridge. We donned our foulies and warm gear for what we hoped would

2022 by Molly Howe

All smiles going upwind after leaving San Francisco.

On day seven we finally got into the trade wind sailing that we were promised so many times. Winds were consistent, the sun was hot with few cloud breaks, and we were chasing squalls to get the best wind. Below decks was hot and stagnant. We turned the oven on only at night and pre-cooked dinner so we Freja sailing downwind with full main and asym under blue skies.

48º NORTH 41 SEPTEMBER 2022 only be a few days. We started the day with a reef and #3 jib. I was feeling the anticipation of the start but quickly forgot about the monstrosity of the trip to Hawaii ahead and got to work on the bow, plugging in the headsail. It was a bit of a wet ride initially but once we were under the bridge and on our way to the Farallon Islands, the sea state settled down significantly. We shook the reef out and quickly fell into watches about three hours after the start. We knew the best way to push ourselves the hardest was to get adequate rest. And with eight crew onboard, we could continually push the boat hard, harder than other teams with less crew. This year the Pacific High was quite unstable, which made it difficult to plan how long we would be jib-reaching. It turned out that three and a half days was how long it took us to set a spinnaker, about two days longer than “normal.” The following days meshed together. The water turned to a deep royal blue and we were no longer wearing waterproof socks or heavy jackets at night. Our watch schedule shifted to four hours on, four hours off at night and six hours on, six hours off from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. The watches rotated every day so the night watches were always changing. We found this was a good way to break up the monotony that comes with crossing an ocean, and we had a rotating schedule of chores each day as well. Lunch prep usually consisted of digging into the fridge for lunch meat and getting out the next day’s dinner so it could thaw in time. Happy hour took place at 6 p.m. with the watch change. Usually a round of off-color or dad jokes were told, followed by a fresh bag of gummy worms or peanut M&Ms, and just a sniff of Ron Zacapa rum was enough to set us straight to bed. By day six we were fully locked into 12 to 18 knots of breeze. Freja was powered up and surfing beautifully. Off-watch conditions improved significantly once we were able to “turn the corner.” The boat flattened out and sleeping became easier — dare I say, almost pleasant. Night watches were delightful, with a mostly full moon rising around 1 a.m. and the sea state improving. According to Nav, our night shifts were making dramatic gains of 20 to 30 miles or so on the competition. We were now also consistently picking off 200-plus mile days.

• Everyone likes Oreos.

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• Crocs were the ultimate, yes, ultimate, below-deck shoe. They are perfectly grippy and basically anyone can wear them, regardless of shoe size. Perfect.

• Do it with your friends; it’s the best!

48º NORTH 42 SEPTEMBER 2022 didn’t have the oven on during the hottest parts of the day. At this point, the night watches were getting pretty delirious. Here is a watch mate’s update that was sent out to our shore support and family back home: Good morning from the 2 a.m. - 6 a.m. watch crew on Freja (Taylor/Molly/Jonah/Jake), just coming down below after 4 hours of happiness doing a hot spinnaker reach in 12-18 knots. I (Jonah) started it off right by getting up early so I could have another bowl of the outstanding mac & cheese and pulled pork leftover from dinner. It only got better from there, sailing under a powered up and moonlit kite and surfing the waves whenever possible.

• Non-consensual surfing is terrifying.

Important discussion topics during the watch included “exactly what kind of a chalk/dirt mixture do these caffeinated espresso hammer gels taste like?” and “what’s your favorite method for getting your pants back up in the head without falling over when the boat is heeled?” and my personal favorite, “how to communicate effectively with your significant other while still never admitting when you’reThewrong.”conversation flows simultaneously in parallel with the interjections made by sailors at work: wind shifting left, now at 006, OK to come down … helm is light, I’ll take a little more main. The darkness to windward looks darker than the darkness elsewhere, expect more wind soon … heading currently 220 … working up, prepare for some more spice … 13.6 knot boat speed! NOICE! Looking forward now to 6 hours off, better known amongst the crew as “the big sleeps.” - Jonah By day nine, the end was in sight. We were all getting stircrazy and what we affectionately referred to as “the grumps” started to set in. We could smell the finish line. We tried to keep pushing hard, but that proved difficult with such little sleep, too much sun and only 43 feet of living space for eight people.


Driving the boat was also getting pretty taxing. The sea state was large, with remnants of Hurricane Darby contributing to large side waves that hurled us down them. We could get about two great surfs, followed by what we developed as the “flop and surf.” This is a technique in which you would get thrown off your course by a giant side wave, the boat would heel over, the kite would kiss the water and then you would go careening down the front side of the wave. It was not the safest technique, but often necessary and sometimes effective. We referred to this as a non-consensual surf, usually resulting in top speeds, wide eyes, white knuckles, and a wide stance behind the wheel. As you’d expect, reaching the finish in Hawaii was a mix of emotions. I hope everyone that wants to gets to cross an ocean, or half of one, on a sailboat. The “Great Blue” has amazing qualities that are hard to explain in words. You really have to experience it firsthand. It takes you away from reality and brings you back, all at the same time. The ocean also makes you realize that the place we live in is pretty wonderful. Let’s try to keep it that way and not take it for granted.

Our total elapsed time for the race was 10 days, 16:14:34, and we took fourth in our division and 15th overall. Not bad for a bunch of amateurs! Molly Howe moved to Seattle after graduating from Maine Maritime Academy in 2015. After working on tugboats for six years, she shifted gears to selling boats at Swiftsure Yachts. Molly lives aboard a Farr 50 with her husband, Jake. They are regulars at Monday night beer can races and enjoy sailing a wide variety of boats throughout the year. Sailing fast and trimming hard en route to the finish. The intrepid crew of Freja after finishing in Hawaii.

As racing Saturday came to a close, it was Rush, the J/109 Mountain, and Scheme on the podium for the overall lead amongst doublehanded boats with the formerly front-running J/105s and the J/100 all 30 to 40 minutes back. This would be important on Sunday. Rush and Mountain took top honors in Class 4 and 5, respectively, with the Westsail 32 Hula taking Class 3. Sunday dawned with a wind forecast of a single-digit northerly building to the midteens and a course to Seattle via Colvos Passage. The early boats on this day had wind, generally heading for Browns Point off the start line to catch a strong outflow current. Many of these boats were able to get into the mouth of Colvos, at least, before the remainder of the fleet was treated to a wholly unforecasted northto-south convergence causing spinnakers to sprout amongst the back half of the fleet. The leading boats were able to punch through into a building northerly coming down Colvos Passage, but the tail end of the fleet got caught in a nasty wind hole right at the entrance, including Saturday’s second boat overall, Mountain, and the fourth-place overall boat on Saturday, the J/99 One Life. The northerly continued to build throughout the day, ending up with steady winds in the upper teens to low 20s off Magnolia and the last stretch into the finish line. Speeds were fast and mainsails were flogging as boats with sail plans reflecting single-digit speeds early in the day had to deal with being overpowered in the heavy breeze. This made an already tiring day for these doublehanded crews even more tiring. Despite that, Double Trouble, More Jubilee, and Selah ended up 1-2-3 for Sunday line honors, and Saturday’s wind hole off Ruston put them too far behind — but only barely. Rush and Scheme retained their overall spots atop the podium, but One Life ended up taking third overall, despite finishing more than 20 minutes behind the first boats across the line — just 90 seconds ahead of Mountain after nearly 10 hours of racing across two days.


By David Miller. Photo by Mike Cain


The J/105s Double Trouble and More Jubilee and the J/100 Selah in Class 5 made particularly great moves in this reshuffle. The J/80 Rush and the Pyramid 30 Scheme were also among the frontrunners.AfterPoint Robertson, a close reach under spinnaker provided a great deal of excitement, with a number of boats rounding up as nobody wanted to give up the speed their spinnakers were providing in an attempt to catch the leaders. The lead boats, sans Rush and Scheme, made the decision to sail beyond Browns Point towards Ruston, ultimately parking themselves in the mother of all wind holes. Anyone who went much beyond the western edge of the Port of Tacoma turning circle saw their hopes of a strong finish disappear. The trailing boats formerly stuck in the Three Tree Point wind hole saw the carnage and cut close to Browns Point to avoid the hole, even though it made for pretty dead downwind sailing in a dying breeze.


The Sloop Tavern Yacht Club’s twoday Down the Sound race was back as a destination event for 2022, this time with a course to Tacoma’s Foss Harbor Marina instead of Gig Harbor. This single and doublehanded pursuitstyle race has been a fixture in the Puget Sound racing scene for a couple of decades. Seventeen boats raced in this year’s edition on Aug. 6 and 7, with 15 of those spread across three classes in the doublehanded flying sails division. This year’s edition had the early-start boats disadvantaged with next to no wind in Saturday’s start area off Seattle’s Shilshole Bay Marina. By the time a light northerly built for the later-starting boats, most of the early fleet hadn’t made it past West Point in Discovery Park. Once the northerly filled in, though, it was a beautiful sunny day for sailing. The Saturday course had the fleet sailing to Tacoma down the east side of Vashon Island with a race mark at Three Tree Point. The fleet compressed and reshuffled there, with expansive wind holes between there and Point Robertson separating the fleet into clear haves and have-nots.

Class winners for the weekend were the Hanse 455 Bella in the singlehanded flying sails Class 1 and Q-Class Grayling in the doublehanded non-flying sails Class 2. In the doublehanded flying sails classes, the Wauquiez 35 Seeker took Class 3, Rush was tops in Class 4, and One Life led the fast boats in the very competitive Class 5, in which all the boats finishing both days ended up correcting to within about 16 minutes of each other after 54 miles of racing. Overall, it was another fun and memorable Down the Sound race.

The fleet of 31 boats was split on the best way to round Shaw, with 17 heading clockwise up San Juan Channel into the wind on a light flood. The other 14 hoisted chutes, put up spinnakers or stretched out on a broad reach in hopes of clearing Turn Rock and picking up the flood in Upright Channel.

“One of the things that makes this race special is meeting the counter course fleet halfway,” said Mike Kaminskas, skipper of the Pyramid 660 Homeless Hare, who placed first overall on corrected time and first in the PHRF-B division. “I always love finding out how we are doing — if we are not yet at the halfway point, I say, ‘Here comes the easy part,’ but if we are beyond the halfway point, it’s, ‘Here comes the hard part!’” Nigel Oswald, skipper of the Farrier 25C trimaran Makika and first-place finisher in the multihull division, added, “Clockwise was definitely the way to go. I think we may have had one of the

Blue skies, sunshine and predictions of uniform, northerly winds of 8 to 10 knots in San Juan Channel had racers smiling in anticipation of a perfect day for the long-awaited 50th annual Shaw Island Classic on Aug. 6, 2022.



Hosted by the San Juan Island Yacht Club (SJIYC), the event had been delayed two years due to COVID-19, but the unofficial 49½ and 49¾ Un-Shaw races in 2020 and 2021 provided an opportunity to escape the craziness, enjoy fresh air sailing, and keep racing skills sharp. This race is unique in that Shaw Island is the only mark and can be rounded in either direction. The course is only 13 miles, but shifting winds, variable currents, narrow rocky channels, and ferry traffic often turn it into a nautical chess game.


Racers with an array of sail setups during and after the start.

“The hardest part was Upright Channel,” said Betsy Wareham, skipper of the Martin 242 Purple Martin and first-place finisher in the PHRF-C division. “No wind, puffs from any direction, we just tried to connect the puffs and managed to get through …” Despite hitting the hard part in Upright Channel, the clockwise fleet made it to the finish line, while most of the rest of the fleet languished in Wasp Passage as the clock ran out. Fifteen sailboats finished the full course race. None of the boats in the Cruising-A (no flying sails) division finished, so the three winners were based on mid-course times. Spirits were high as racers once again gathered at the lovely SJIYC clubhouse in Friday Harbor for post-race banter and a hearty lasagna dinner served by the first mates. An article about the first Shaw Island Classic race in 1970 was titled “Backward Sailors Finish First,” showing that the founders set the expectation of fun from the start. A new award was added in honor of Wally Lum, who skippered Marquita in the first Shaw Island Classic and has competed in every race since. Donated by Michael and Kat Durland and the crew of Challenge in honor of their longtime skipper and friend, the Perseverance Award goes to the last boat to cross the finish before the deadline. This year’s winner was the Martin 242 Treachery, skippered by Chris White, the only counterclockwise boat to finish the race. A shoutout goes to multigenerational team aboard the King 40 Hydra, skippered by Sam Richardson, for placing first in PHRF-A division and first overall on elapsed time. Complete results and photos are posted on the club’s website at Peg Gerlock and Jim Corenman Theresa Cole and Jim Corenman Enjoying a spinnaker run between the islands.


The mid-course committee boat reported that all the clockwise boats passed the halfway point before any of the counterclockwise fleet, which was stalled in Upright Channel.

most pleasant Wasp Passage passages in memory, just a hole at the entrance and exit but a lovely kite run

48º NORTH 46 SEPTEMBER 2022 CLASSIFIEDSBOATSFORSALEBOATSFOR SALE BOATS FOR SALE THUNDERBIRD #1167 “Greybeard”, Ontario-built Thunderbird 26 #1167, Extensive race record (1st Toliva Shoals, numerous trophies), fully race rigged, North Sails, 3 chutes, Yamaha 6 hp., Great PHRF rating, cruise equipped… Iconic design, several active fleets in the area » Contact Mark Anderson • (253) 549-3822 • • $5,750 $5,750 1985 SOVEREL 48 KETCH Rare opportunity to own 1985 Soverel 48 Staysail Ketch. Combines excellent Interior Accommodations with High Performance Bluewater Sailing. CAVU is fast, well-equipped, and offers unsurpassed storage; the perfect live-aboard cruiser. Bonus: 50’ slip offered separately or part of a packaged deal. Unobstructed view of Mt. Baker and North Cascades. Contact me for more Photos & Specifications. » Contact Mark Fernandez • (206) 981-8745 • • $142,000$142,0001980 YAMAHA 30 SAILBOAT Yamaha owner for over 40 years. This my 3rd one. I have owned 10 years. Professionally maintained. Last month perfect survey. Boat would be able to take offshore tomorrow. I have sailed sistership to Hawaii and back. Great full quantum sail inventory. Newer replacement motor. Just launched fresh bottom paint. Shaft rebuild. 3 blade Max prop. New cushions. Turn key. Bought New boat » Contact Colin Taylor • (206) 612-0444 • • $30,000 $30,000 1974 NAUTOR SWAN 38 Rare classic bluewater cruiser in excellent condition. Fiberglass decking, teak interior. Barely used custom Yaeger sails. 40 HP Volva Penta diesel engine with 964 hours. 1 queen and 5 twin berths. Many extras included. Currently moored at Hope Marina on Lake Pend O’reille, Idaho. » Contact Tom Richardson • (509) 979-4279 • • $72,000 $72,000 UNION CUTTER 36 (1986) Excellent maintenance, canvas enclosed cockpit and rail covers and recent fiberglass decks and equipment updates. Garmin GPS 7211 Map, Horizon VHF handheld with AIS, Radar, Ritchie compass; Newport heater; several bow anchors, stern anchor as well as comfort items and duplicate hardware. » Contact Bill Mark • (360) 981-3965 • • $79,900$79,9001959 CHEOY LEE LION 35' SAILBOAT A special classic wooden sailboat looking for her next crew! Teak hull in great shape. Yanmar 3GM30F. Good inventory of sails. Ready to go cruising! Located in Nanaimo BC Canada. Full writeup, specs, & photos: » Contact Ian Wright • • $24,900 $24,900 HOME BUILT LONG ISLAND SHARPIE 24’ Home built by my brother-in-law in 2001. All marine plywood on the exterior covered with fiberglass. Cabin roof redone last year. Shoal draft boat that’s a cat catch rig designed by Bruce Kirby. Sails are basically brand new. Tohatsu motor has barely been used. Rebuilt carburetor two years ago. Trailer included. » Contact Janiece Brown • (503) 720-0096 • • $12,500 $12,500 C&C 33 SAILBOAT FOR SALE Excellent sailing boat, multiple sails including great set of racing sails, trailer. LOA – 32’6", Beam – 10’6", Draft – 6’4", Weight – 9800 lbs. » Contact John Simms • (406) 465-2366 • • $29,000 MONTANA SAILBOAT EQUIPMENT Used Sails, dozens of used fresh water sails from 20-30 foot Montana sailboats. » Contact James Lekander • (406) 250-7809 • • Items priced individually 1966 CENTURY RESORTER 17 Mahogany inboard. Newish 383 (500hp). New upholstery. 5200 bottom w/glass-epoxy over. Serious inquiries only. Bainbridge Island. » Contact Jim Llewellyn • (206) 842-4552 • • $18,500 1983 UNITED OCEAN (FU HWA) TRAWLER PROJECT BOAT. This classic 38ft trawler has served us well, but now needs a new craftsperson owner who is comfortable with carpentry, ext. cosmetics, and general system maintenance. Vessel has a solid GRP hull, single diesel, full teak interior, and select system upgrades. Inherently capable live-aboard and seaworthy Salish Sea cruiser. Anacortes, WA. » Contact Mark Hagen • (360) 378-7676 • • $22,000 $22,000

48º NORTH 47 SEPTEMBER 2022 34' CUSTOM WOOD CUTTER Hull: Wood/Epoxy/WEST System. Mast, Boom: Sitka Spruce epoxied and glassed. Engine: Sabb diesel, 10hp. Propeller: 2-blade variable pitch. Tender: 10' rowing dinghy. Dulcinea II offers comfort, reliability, and easy-to-maintain systems. Recent survey. » Contact Donna Sassaman • (250) 661-2021 • • $23,500 (US) / $30,000 (CAN) $23,500 WESTSAIL 32 New engine, tanks, sails, head, roller furling. Many extras. Motivated seller has reduced price to $ 35,000 » Contact Dan Thoreson • (206) 290-9660 • • $35,000 $35,000 CABO RICO 38 Due to health issues and aging crew, I reluctantly am selling my boat of 30 years. You will not find a better cruising sailboat. The boat is located in the Pacific Northwest, a rare find on the west coast. Contact me via email for specification sheet/pictures or answer any questions. » Contact George P Leonnig • 1(503) 707-6062 • • $85,000 $85,000 BOB PERRY RELIANCE 37 Built to the highest standard and maintained as such this Perry Designed and Canadian Built boat is outfitted for long distance cruising in mind. Currently cruising back to Astoria from a solo winter cruise down to San Diego. New: Stainless NFM opening portlights, B&G Radar/Chartplotter, Isotherm 12V refrigerator/freezer, wind/spd/depth/autopilot/ hydrovane, D400 wind, H2O maker, sails, rigging. » Contact JC • • (971) 344-7785 • $85,000 $85,000 1978 NORTH SEA 34 PILOTHOUSE Comfortable cruiser and NW veteran. Dual helms. Yanmar3GM 30 engine with Autoprop 2- 30 gal aluminum fuel tanks. Pressure hot and cold H20, propane oven, heater. engine heat, Newer 130% Genoa & Harken furling system. Main sail in good condition. Bruce anchor manual windlass. Bottom sider cockpit cushions. Radar & GPS. Moorage available. » Contact Douglas W. Davidson • (425) 864-1955 • • $35,000 $35,000 ALERION EXPRESS 28 Beautiful 2008 Alerion 28, “Alegria”, meticulously maintained, original owner, Flag Blue hull/Beige nonskid. All standard equipment plus Hoyt Jib Boom, varnished interior/exterior, sink, marine head, swim ladder, bow and stern pulpits with double lifelines, shorepower, second battery, upgraded winches, goldleaf name, etc. Located Pt. Richmond, CA » Contact Mike • • $109,000 $109,000 1985 CLASSIC GAFF RIGGED SCHOONER WILHELM H. STARCK McKie W. Roth Jr design. LOA 44,LOD 32’8,Beam 10’3” Full keel,Honduras mahogany planks on White Oak frame, Teak decking, Handsome interior. Sitka Spruce masts recently rebuilt. New standing rigging by Brion Toss. New Carol Hasse main sail. New Volvo Penta diesel 40 HP. Located in Everett, WA. Recent survey available. Needs some work, ideal for a wooden boat carpenter or student. » Contact Mary Wood • (360) 628-6949 • • $35,000 $35,000 RIPTIDE 35 FOR SALE Sistership to Terremoto ex-Ripple. Complete refurbish over the last 24 months includes new keel fin with kelp cutter. Awlgrip interior and exterior. B&G 5000 System. New standing and running rigging. Complete new Quantum sail wardrobe. Newer Yanmar and much much more! Complete rocketship ready to win everything in the PNW and offshore! » Contact Chris Winnard • (619) 987-7331 • • $215,000$215,000HOMEBUILT LONG ISLAND SHARPIE 24’ Home built by my brother-in-law in 2001. All marine plywood on the exterior covered with fiberglass. Cabin roof redone last year. Shoal draft boat that’s a cat catch rig designed by Bruce Kirby. Sails are basically brand new. Tohatsu motor has barely been used. Rebuilt carburetor two years ago. Trailer included. » Contact Janiece Brown • (503) 720-0096 • • $12,500 $12,500 BOATS FOR SALE BOATS FOR SALE BOATS FOR SALE 1987 AMEL MARAMU 46' Ketch rig. Roller furling main, mizzen, genoa. Fully equipped blue water cruiser. Well maintained by knowledgeable sailors. Very good condition. Many recent upgrades. 2012 re-fit & re-power. Specs. & photos upon request. Serious inquiries please. Lying in Blaine, WA. » Contact Curt Epperson • (509) 687-6236 • • $145,000 $145,000 28' WOOD FRIENDSHIP SLOOP FOR SALE Marie Anne, a Friendship Sloop; they originally were gaff rigged fish boats in Maine. Mahogany planking, two-cylinder Yanmar, sails, interior and cockpit cushions winches. The owner, now deceased, worked out of state for eleven years. The boat was in salt water storage, under cover in Seattle. This is a boat for someone who loves a historic type vessel and can fix her up., negotiable price. » Contact Paul Kelton • • $3,500 $3,500 1976 VALIANT 40 Bob Perry’s first design, the Valiant is a tried-andtrue bluewater cruiser. Halcyon (hull #136) is in great condition with upgraded systems and is fully outfitted for cruising. New Beta Marine 50hp engine (500 hours), max prop, new sails (2015) new batteries (2021), Monitor windvane, SSB, solar panels, wind generator and more. She is currently in French Polynesia, waiting to safely and comfortably carry her new owners anywhere in the world! » Contact Becca Guillote • • $68,000 $68,000

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48º NORTH 51 SEPTEMBER 2022 MARINE SERVICENTER 2023 Jeanneau SO 410 #76461: $398,813 • SAVE $37,217 At The Show! At The Show! 2023 Jeanneau SO 440 #76462: $508,460 • SAVE $42,410 Yacht Sales since 1977 2023 Jeanneau Yacht 51- 6 SOLD! #76709: $798,790 • SAVE $90,374 LISTINGS WANTED! • WE GET RESULTS ! See Your Boat on the Back Page of 48° North! 50' Formosa 41 Ketch ‘78 ............ $52,000 42' Lagoon 42 ‘23 Sale Pending 39' Ericson 39-B ‘77 $49,500 38' Catalina 380 ‘00 Sale Pending 37' Cherubini 37 ‘84 Sale Pending 36' Jeanneau Sun Fast ‘19 . Sale Pending 35' Island Packet 35 ‘90 Sale Pending Ready Spring 2023Arrives October 2014 Harbor 25 • $68,500 2006 Beneteau 51 • $199,900 Dan Krier Ryan Ducey Jeff Riedy Curt Bagley Jeff Carson Jon Knowles At The Show! Seattle San Diego Bellingham 206.323.2405 619.733.0559 360.770.0180 • 2023 Jeanneau SO 380 #77291: $338,895 • SAVE $27,930 2018 Jeanneau Yacht 58 • $798,500 2002 Jeanneau SO 40 • $130,000 2023 Jeanneau Yacht 60 - 1 SOLD! • InquireScow Bow Hull & Walk Around Decks! Reduced 2008 Jeanneau 390i • $139,000 New Listing Lagoon 42 - Arrives July ‘23 Take Delivery in the PNW, France, or Caribbean – Call for Details! Lagoon Models: 40 • 42 • 46 • 51 • 55 • 65 • 77• 67MY • 78MY2023 Jeanneau 349 Limited Ed. #77410: $239,870 • SAVE $17,250 2010 Jeanneau 50DS • $349,500 New Listing At The Show! 2023 Lagoon 46 - 1 SOLD! • Inquire Owners Version, Flybridge and More! New Listing Get To Know Jeanneau!Our Seattle Dock • 9/15-18 New Listing September 15-18 South Lake Union Dealer of the Year ‘21 • ‘20 • ‘19 • ‘16 2023 Jeanneau SO 490 #77424: $654,896 • SAVE $19,284 MARINE SERVICENTER Limited Edition SUN ODYSSEY 349 2023 Jeanneau SO 410 #76461: $398,813 • SAVE $37,217 At The Show! At The Show! 2023 Jeanneau SO 440 #76462: $508,460 • SAVE $42,410 Yacht Sales since 1977 2023 Jeanneau Yacht 51- 6 SOLD! #76709: $798,790 • SAVE $90,374 LISTINGS WANTED! • WE GET RESULTS ! See Your Boat on the Back Page of 48° North! 50' Formosa 41 Ketch ‘78 ............ $52,000 42' Lagoon 42 ‘23 Sale Pending 39' Ericson 39-B ‘77 $49,500 38' Catalina 380 ‘00 Sale Pending 37' Cherubini 37 ‘84 Sale Pending 36' Jeanneau Sun Fast ‘19 Sale Pending 35' Island Packet 35 ‘90 Sale Pending Ready Spring 2023Arrives October Reduced 2006 Beneteau 51 • $199,900 Dan Krier Ryan Ducey Jeff Riedy Curt Bagley Jeff Carson Jon Knowles At The Show! Seattle San Diego Bellingham 206.323.2405 619.733.0559 360.770.0180 • Ready June 2023 2023 Jeanneau SO 380 #77291: $338,895 • SAVE $27,930 2018 Jeanneau Yacht 58 • $798,500 2002 Jeanneau SO 40 • $130,000 2023 Jeanneau Yacht 60 - 1 SOLD! • InquireScow Bow Hull & Walk Around Decks! Reduced 2008 Jeanneau 390i • $139,000 New Listing Lagoon 42 - Arrives July ‘23 Take Delivery in the PNW, France, or Caribbean – Call for Details! Lagoon Models: 40 • 42 • 46 • 51 • 55 • 65 • 77• 67MY • 78MY2023 Jeanneau 349 Limited Ed. #77410: $239,870 • SAVE $17,250 2014 Jeanneau SO 469 • $379,0002010 Jeanneau 50DS • $349,500 New Listing At The Show! 2023 Lagoon 46 - 1 SOLD! • Inquire Owners Version, Flybridge and More! New Listing New Listing Get To Know Jeanneau!Our Seattle Dock • 9/15-18 New Listing September 15-18 South Lake Union Dealer of the Year ‘21 • ‘20 • ‘19 • ‘16 2023 Jeanneau SO 490 #77424: $654,896 • SAVE $19,284

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48º NORTH 53 SEPTEMBER 2022 206.378.1110 | info@swiftsureyachts. com 2540 Westlake Ave. N., Ste. A Seattle WA SwiftsureYachts quality yachts from NEW SAILING YACHTS FOR WORLD CRUISING FIVE LOCATIONS TO YACHTSMENWESTSERVECOAST BaySanAnacortesBainbridgeSidney,(MainBaySanBainbridgeAnacortesSidney,(MainSeattleOffice)BCIslandFranciscoAreaOffice)BCIslandFranciscoArea Outbound 44 • 2005 • $415,000 Chuck Paine/Kelly Archer 80 • 2003 • $2.6 millon Amel 55 • 2018 • $1.2 million New Allures 45.9 • 2022 • €770,000 for august 2022 delivery Baltic 42 • 1982 • $155,000 Morris 46 • 1996 • $250,000Outremer 42 • 2008 • $359,000 Brewer Cutter 35 • 2005 • $199,000 Swan 441 • 1979 • $179,000 price reduced 53 Gorbon PH 2008 inquire 50 Bestway 1986 $124,000 48 Monk 1964 $165,000 47 Tayana 1990 $115,000 46 Dream Boat 1928 $149,000 46 Swan 1984 $165,000 46 Ker 2006 $249,000 46 Cal 2-46 1976 $160,000 45 Jeanneau DS 2010 $279,000 42 Passport 1980 $150,000 42 Hinckley Sou’wester 1984 $189,000 41 X-Yachts 412 1997 $150,000 Arctic Raven 2003 SAGA $325,00048 Arctic Raven is a performance cruising sloop designed by Robert H. Perry. This SAGA 48 (hull #2) was launched in 2004 by SAGA Marine in St Catherines, Ontario, Canada and was awarded Cruising World’s “Best Full-sized Cruiser” that year. She continues to thrive and impress today. Designed to be sailed shorthanded, both above-deck and below-deck spaces provide for luxurious, comfortable, and easily navigated movement. Power winches for sail management, dual helms, and the space to move in the cockpit make sailing a dream. The headroom and light below are unique. The raised interior navigation position turns rainy northwest days into warm and dry cruising time. The forward cabin sports a king-sized berth, storage, and its own head. The galley is efficient with refrigerator, freezer, and four-burner Force-10 range. Arctic Raven’s owner has lavished improvements on her over the past three years, including new standing rigging, B&G radar and chartplotter, new Perry designed carbon rudder, rebuilt Westerbeke engine and extensive other systems upgrades. 40 Ellis Custom 1990 inquire 38 Beneteau 381 1998 $99,000 36 Grand Banks 1991 $140,000 36 Pearson 36-2 1986 $62,500 34 Sabre 1987 $49,950 32 Beneteau 323 2006 $72,000 32 Catalina 320 MkII 2007 inquire 30 Henderson 1997 $29,000 32 Nordic Tug 2003 $189,000 27 Ranger Tug 2020 $212,500 25 Ranger Tug 2014 $119,500 24 Boston Whaler Vantage 2021 $175,000

48º NORTH 54 SEPTEMBER 2022 844.692.2487 SEATTLEYACHTS.COM LIVE THE ADVENTURE SEA BEYOND 2022 Excess 11 Anacortes, WA 2023 Tartan 395 Seattle, WA IN BUILD 2023 Tartan 365 Anacortes, WA IN BUILDARRIVING OCT '22 2021 Hanse 388 $410,000 Tom Mowbray 415.497.3366 Seattle Yachts 844.692.2487 2009 Tartan 5300 $925,000 Rob Fuller 207.233.8846 SELL LISTBOAT!YOURWITHUS! 2022 Hanse 458 Anacortes, WA 2023 Hanse 460 Seattle, WA IN BUILD 2023 Tartan 455 Anacortes, WA IN BUILDIN STOCK

48º NORTH 55 SEPTEMBER 2022 54' Ocean Alexander 540 '92 $289,900 Inquire 49' Cruisers Cantius '11 $529,900 Inquire 46' West Indies Heritage 46 '77 $69,900 Inquire Pre-owned Boats 44' Gozzard '01 ................. $289,900 AtOurDocks 35’ Beneteau Oceanis 350 ’88 $44,000 Inquire 2476 Westlake Ave N. #101, Seattle, WA 98109 • (206) 284-9004 Open Monday - Saturday 10:00am - 5:00pm • Sunday by appointment Boats are Selling FAST! QUALITY LISTINGS WANTED! 35’ Beneteau Oceanis 350 ’90 ... $39,900 Inquire 31' Beneteau 31 '10 $89,900 AtOurDocks – September 15-18 –What's Happening 51' Beneteau Oceanis 51.1 '22 Arriving Sold 47' Beneteau 473 '02 SOLD 46' Beneteau Oceanis 46.1 '22 Arriving Sold 41' Beneteau 41.1 '17 Sale Pending 41' Hunter 41DS '05 Sale Pending 40' Beneteau Oceanis 40.1 '22 Arriving Sold 40' Beneteau Oceanis 40.1 '22 Arriving Sold 38' Beneteau Oceanis 38.1 '22 ...........................Arriving Sold 38' Beneteau Oceanis 38.1 '22 Arriving Sold 38' Beneteau 38 '14 Sale Pending 38' Sabre 38 MKII '90 Sale Pending 37' Beneteau Oceanis 37 '11 Sale Pending 35' Niagara 35 '81 Sale Pending 35' O'Day 35 '86 SOLD 34' Beneteau Oceanis 34.1 '22 Arriving Sold 30' Beneteau Oceanis 30.1 '22 Arriving Sold 19' Chris Craft Racing Runabout '50 Inquire InStock Beneteau Oceanis 51.1 Successfully serving clients for 30 WWW.SIGNATURE-YACHTS.COMyears. FP Astrea 42 InStock Beneteau Oceanis 46.1 InStock Beneteau Oceanis 40.1 InStock Beneteau Oceanis 34.1 ArrivingWinterNEWMODEL! Beneteau Oceanis 30.1 ArrivingWinter Beneteau Oceanis 38.1 ArrivingSummer

2023 Jeanneau 490 #77424: $654,896 Show Special - SAVE $19,284 #76462 - $508,460 SAVE $42,410 2023 JEANNEAU 440 AT THE SHOW SUN ODYSSEY 440 Life at sea reinvented (206) 323-2405 Seattle • (360) 770-0180 Bellingham • (619) 733-0559 San Diego • JEANNEAU YACHTSUN ODYSSEY Scow bow hard chine hull & twin rudders Central galley & low storage cabinetry Asymmetric cockpit w/convertible lounge Jeanneau has led the way in modern yacht design by embracing innovative thinking and modern technology. The Sun Odyssey 440 has been completely reimagined to meet the needs of today’s cruising sailor. Life aboard has never been so comfortable. Walk-around decks & split shrouds 2023 Jeanneau 380 #77291: $338,895 Show Special - SAVE $27,930 2023 Jeanneau 410 #76461: $398,813 Show Special - SAVE $37,217 NEW NEW 51 55 60 65349 380 410 440 490 NEW West Coast Debut! MARINE SERVICENTER NEW September 15-18 South Lake Union At The Show! At The Show! Yacht Sales since 1977

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