Flavor

Pasta Perfect

Butternut squash ravioli at Il Davide.

DAVID HAYDON’S CULINARY journey began when he was 15 and a chance dishwashing gig landed him in the world of fine French dining. “My best friend’s dad owned La Petite Auberge — an old-school French restaurant in San Rafael — and I filled in for him [as kitchen help] one night,” he says. Three years later Haydon dedicated himself to mastering Italian cuisine and as a junior partner co-opened Cafe Ristorante Italia in 1987. But the idea of top chef beckoned to the driven Haydon and he set his ambitions on opening a restaurant of his own. Il Davide, launched in June 1995, has been in business almost 25 years. “We’ve stayed so popular because we’ve been changing all the time and have listened to the clients; you have to listen to the clients,” Haydon says. “I believe in an evolved menu and we have an ambitious one with about 45 dishes.” Meanwhile, consistent quality and meeting of expectations is also key: “When people ask me for a recipe I know I’ve made it right.” With that in mind, Haydon has authored the cookbook To the Taste, available for purchase in the restaurant: “I got sick of people asking me for recipes,” he says with a laugh. Here he outlines how to make butternut squash ravioli, aka ravioli di zucca. “This is a lovely fall and winter dish inspired by the holiday season; the toasted walnuts are wonderful and pureed in the filling.” ildavide.net KASIA PAWLOWSKA

RECIPE

Butternut Squash Ravioli

SERVES 4

Ingredients Spinach Pasta Dough

5 ounces fresh spinach, blanched and squeezed dry 1 pound all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon salt 6 large egg yolks 1 large egg 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

Filling

1 medium butternut squash, halved lengthwise, seeds removed Olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper ½ cup toasted walnuts ¼ cup mascarpone cheese ¼ cup ricotta cheese 2 tablespoons finely grated Parmesan 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg Egg wash (1 egg whisked with 1 teaspoon water)

Sauce

2 cups heavy cream ½ cup unsalted butter, softened ½ cup toasted and chopped walnuts 3 sage leaves ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg Pinch of salt

Finely grated Parmesan for garnish

RECIPE EDITED BY LYNDA BALSLEV

To Prepare

Make the dough 1 In the bowl of a food processor, combine the blanched spinach, flour and salt. Process to mix well. With the machine running, add the egg yolks, egg and olive oil through the feed tube, and process until mixture resembles wet cornmeal, about 2 minutes. 2 Take a handful of dough at a time and form into a firm ball. Repeat with the remaining dough. Roll out each dough ball to the thinnest setting on a pasta machine, according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make the ravioli 1 Heat the oven to 375°F. Brush the butternut squash with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place cut-side-down on a baking sheet, transfer to the oven and bake until soft, about 40 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool. 2 While the squash is baking, puree the walnuts in a food processor to form a paste. 3 Scoop the squash meat into the food processor with the walnut puree. Add the mascarpone, ricotta, Parmesan, butter and nutmeg. Puree to blend and season with salt and pepper. 4 Transfer the filling to a pastry bag. Cut the rolled-out pasta into 4-inch squares, placing them in a row on a long work surface. Brush each square with the egg wash. Pipe or spoon a large tablespoon of filling into the center of half of the pasta squares. Place the remaining sheets on top of the squares, pressing the air out around the mound of filling. Crimp the edges with the tines of a fork and place on a lightly floured surface such as a cookie sheet. 5 Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Make the sauce While the water is heating, heat the cream in a large sauté pan over high heat. When it begins to bubble up and rise, add the butter, walnuts, sage, nutmeg and salt, stirring or swirling the pan to mix the ingredients. Keep warm. Cook and serve 1 Place 12 raviolis in the boiling water and cook until they float, 3 to 4 minutes. Strain the pasta with a skimming spoon or “spider” and add to the sauce. 2 To serve, place 3 raviolis on 4 plates. Spoon the sauce with walnuts over the ravioli and garnish with grated Parmesan. Serve immediately.

newest venture a few blocks down in the former Pine Cone Diner. The fast-casual eatery with chef Aaron Wright (formerly of Tavern at Lark Creek) at the helm serves up favorites like rotisserie chicken, smoked oysters and creamed corn. Happy hour weekly from 2–4 p.m. 60 Fourth St, 415.663.0303 sidestreet-prs.com b $$ Í LD º

SIR & STAR AT THE

OLEMA California The historic inn has reopened as a roadhouse-style restaurant featuring rustic decor and a delicious yet affordable menu. Try the house-made bread and honey butter, the kale Caesar and the stuffed quail, then come back and work your way through the entire menu — most items are $20 or less (Olema). 10000 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.663.1034, sirandstar.com b $$ S C D

STATION HOUSE

CAFE American Fresh local homegrown foods are showcased for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Stop in on weekends (5 p.m. on Sundays) for live music and wine, beer and cocktails (Point Reyes Station). 11180 Highway 1, 415.663.1515, stationhousecafe.com s $$ S Í C BLD BR º

THE SIREN CANTEEN

American/Mexican Where in Northern California can you enjoy a taco at a restaurant nestled directly under a lifeguard tower? At The Siren Canteen of course. Opened in the summer of 2014, this smart beach shack perched on the sandy shores of Stinson serves up burritos, burgers and creamy Meyer lemon milk shakes. Though the food is solid, we think the BYOW option with a $10 corkage fee and milliondollar views is reason enough to give this shack a shout-out. 3201 Hwy 1, 415.868.1777, thesirencanteen.com b $ Í LD

SAN FRANCISCO /EAST BAY

AUGUST 1 FIVE Indian Focusing on seasonal offerings inspired by the regional cuisines of northern and central India, the cuisine breaks away from expected dishes like curry. For the interior, owner Hetal Shah worked with designer Craige Walters to create a refined yet inviting atmosphere to serve modern Indian food interpretations. 524 Van Ness Ave, 415.771.5900, august1five.com s $$ LD º

AQ RESTAURANT &

BAR California AQ takes seasonal to the next level, not only adapting the menu but also transforming the decor of the entire venue to match the weather outside. 1085 Mission St, 415.341.9000, aq-sf.com s $$$ Í D

BENU Asian/French Plan on a formal and sophisticated evening. The compositions on the tasting menu provide a full experience of this restaurant’s unique Asian fusion cuisine. 22 Hawthorne St, 415.685.4860, benusf.com b $$$ C D

CLIFF HOUSE California Great food, beautiful view and lots of history — what else could

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you want? An awardwinning wine list? They have that too. Not only does Cliff ouse boast a popular Sunday champagne brunch, it also focuses on local, organic, sustainable ingredients and seafood on its everyday menu. 1090 Point Lobos, 415.386.3330, cliffhouse.c s $$ S BLD

New

CONTRADA

Italian Chef Jason Tuley (formerly of Picco in Larkspur) brings his own creativity to classic Cal-Ital cuisine. The restaurant boasts a 22-seat patio and a vast selection of wine. Expect dishes like crispy fingerling potatoes, beef brisket and pork shoulder meatballs, made complete with a decadent dessert selection. 2136 Union St, 415.926.8916 contradasf.com b $$$ Í D BR º

DABBA Indian Inspired by the Indian-Mexican restaurant Avatar’s in Mill Valley, this latest twist on the concept comes from tech entrepreneur Andy Mercy and former French Laundry and Spruce chef, Walter Abrams. Applying Abrams’ precision, palate and creativity to global culinary traditions, Dabba offers worldly flavors “wrapped in a California state of mind.” 71 Stevenson St, 415.236.3984, dabba.com b $$ Í LD

ESPETUS CHURRASCARIA

Brazilian This steakhouse boasts a tasting menu of 14 meat courses grilled in the traditional Brazilian method. Patrons control the pace of the prix fixe experience with colored signal cards. 1686 Market St, 415.552.8792, espetus.com s $$$ S C LD

HOTEL MAC RESTAURANT

American This establishment has been serving American classics since 1911. Executive chef Jaime Molina’s seasonal menu features freshly prepared fish and favorites like Chicken Cordon Bleu. Weekly specials including Friday’s half off ottles of wine keep patrons coming back (Richmond). 50 Washington Ave, 510.233.0576, hotelmac restaurant.com s $$ C LD º

KIN KHAO Thai From spicy curries to pad kee mao (drunken noodles with pork), this San Francisco eatery is sure to impress. 55 Cyril Magnin St, 415.362.7456, kinkhao.com s $$$ S LD º

New

LORD STANLEY

American In the short time it’s been open, this eatery by husbandand-wife team Rupert and Carrie Blease has earned a Michelin star two years in a row and three-and-a-half stars from SF Chronicle restaurant critic Michael Bauer. The onion petals with sherry vinegar is a favorite and not to be missed. 2065 Polk St, SF 415.872.5512, lord stanleysf.com b $$$ D MAYBECK’S American BIX and Fog City alums Erik Lowe and Aaron Toensing serve inventive American standards like St. Louis–style toasted raviolis and green chileapple pie with a cheddar cheese crust. The chefs explore regional culinary traditions and translate them into a Northern Californian lexicon as evidenced by their playful menu and a Negroni-centered bar. 3213 Scott St, 415.939.2726, maybecks.com s $$ C D MERITAGE American Nestled in the Claremont Hotel and Spa, the sweeping views and refined American cuisine are two reasons to visit this special occasion hotspot. Partnerships with local purveyors ensure that dishes highlight fresh seafood and produce. Start with lobster cocktail and finish with Death By Chocolate Cake for a decadent experience (Berkeley). 41 Tunnel Road, 510.549.8510, fairmont.com s $$$ S BLD

MICHAEL MINA

Japanese/French Michael Mina has clearly mastered the fine line between award-winning art and Alaskan halibut. Each brilliantly crafted dish gives diners a delicate blend of flavors that add up to a distinctive, luxurious dining experience. 252 California St, 415.397.9222, michaelmina.net s $$$ LD

KEY TO SYMBOLS

s b $ $$ $$$ S Full bar Wine and beer Inexpensive (entrees $10 or less) Moderate (up to $20) Expensive ($20 and over) Kid-friendly Outdoor seating Private party room Breakfast, lunch, dinner Brunch Happy hour

Í C BLD BR º

New

The restaurant has opened within the last six months.

A major renovation to the restaurant or menu, or there is a new chef.

These listings are not intended to be a full review of the business, rather a quick guide to some of the most popular restaurants in the county. For more restaurant listings, visit us online at marinmagazine.com/dine.

Update

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