Tipping Point When

TIPPING POINT

✴ The ultimate guide on when and how much to “pay thank-you” at holiday time. ✴

BY MIMI TOWLE, KASIA PAWLOWSKA AND KIER HOLMES • ILLUSTRATION BY PETER HOEY

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THE SIMPLE ACT OF TIPPING — SHOWING APPRECIATION FOR A JOB WELL DONE — CAN ACTUALLY BE QUITE CONFUSING.

Is this enough? Should I tip the valets twice? Is it too impersonal to give a Starbucks card? Do I tip an Uber driver? Is 20 percent the standard for most providers, like food server, massage therapist or hairdresser? How about the one-off help of a wedding planner, tow truck driver or mover? These are just a few of the questions that vex at pay-up time. Which prompts yet another head-scratcher: why does this process cause such angst?

Fun fact: the word tip likely derives from the 17th-century English term for “to insure promptitude” — extra pay was how aristocrats ensured their turkey legs and ale were delivered on time. Not so fun fact: the practice of adding gratuity may have “A Racist, Twisted History.” That’s the title of a 2016 Mother Jones piece by Maddie Oatman, describing how newly freed slaves were hired in restaurants and on trains for no wages, only tips. Unions led a movement to ban tipping in many states, she writes, but the bans were repealed by 1926. The article goes on to examine the disparity of earnings among modern-day restaurant workers. Bottom line: tipping’s financial wiggle-room has encouraged small businesses to pay workers less and hence survive, yet has also helped workers make up the difference for a living wage. So unless minimum wage laws dramatically shift, tipping for now is here to stay.

In 2010, Marin Magazine ran an article examining tipping’s ins and outs. Since then, a few factors have changed. For one, that newspaper delivery guy is basically obsolete; consumers can now tap their tip via Square; and a few brave restaurateurs have aimed to make compensation fairer in front and back of house by including the service charge in the bill. While the built-in tip sounds good in theory, complaints have surfaced, both from customers who don’t like to be told how much gratitude to show and servers who prefer the chance to earn more through merit and individual largesse.

And when it comes to convenient options like Square, while the numerical screen prompts do spare us the hassle of math, they’ve also sparked grousing over perceived “tip inflation” or “tip shaming”: When a Marin Magazine poll recently asked Twitter users’ reactions to the fixed percentages (typically “No Tip,” 15%, 20%, and 25%) , the top response was “I just always hit 20%” (considered generous), followed closely by “I feel manipulated.”

As we head into the holiday season, with tipping scenarios around every corner, we’ve asked local business mavens for their take on optimal tipping amounts, what’s above and beyond, and whether a tip is always required at all.

✴ HAIR SALONS ✴ Should the owner of a business be tipped? To help unravel this question, we talked to Christopher Downs, owner of Christopher’s Salon in Tiburon and Mill Valley. “Everybody likes to be acknowledged and feel appreciated,” he says, but “I feel tipping should be left up to the discretion of the tipper. One should feel comfortable about the amount one is handing out. I think the value should lie upon the service that was rendered.” So the general rule is still 20 percent, but if the service doesn’t meet expectations, he feels, then why encourage substandard service? If your experience is unexpectedly amazing, then more than 20 percent is fine too.

Nicole Hitchcock, owner of Novato’s NH2 Salon, tells a different story. She says in general her clients tip roughly 18 percent of the stylist’s fee, but during December she sees a jump to 30 percent. On top of the tip at this time of year, she and her staffreceive gifts like wine and cash. Why such generosity from her clients? “I think it’s a gesture on the culture of our particular business,” she says. “We meet expectations that our guests don’t even know they have.”

✴ SPAS✴ Kayse Gehret has been in the massage business 16 years. She currently owns Soulstice Spa in Sausalito and Santa Rosa, which offers massage, meditation and movement classes, with a monthly membership option for discounted rates. When it comes to tipping, Gehret makes it easy on blissed-out clients by providing a cheat sheet at the front desk where they can choose 15, 20 or 25 percent. Most customers tip 20 percent, and that’s the industry standard for most personal care services, she finds. But what about the massage therapist who comes to your home? If the therapist owns the practice, tipping is optional, but those contracted by a company or through an app typically get a gratuity of 20 percent or more.

✴ RESTAURANTS ✴ Misconceptions prevail when it comes to restaurant tipping, says award-winning Buckeye bartender and author Jeff Burkhart. “It is assumed by the IRS that servers receive at least 8 percent of their sales in tips,” he says. “So some portion above that is always appreciated, because [workers will] get taxed on that percentage even if they were stiffed on a tip. Which means that the server is technically paying to wait on a non-tipping customer.”

Burkhart also reminds us that most servers and bartenders don’t keep all their tips. “In some restaurants there are barbacks, busboys, food runners, expediters, back servers, bartenders, sommeliers and hostesses — some of whom or all of whom share in the tips.”

The biggest tip he received? Two first-class tickets to Europe. The weirdest: $200 and half a leftover bottle of $600 French Bordeaux ... plus an invitation to join the couple for a threesome. “I took two of the three,” Burkhart says.

“Being in the service industry, I’m an advocate of the tip-based system in general,” he adds. “It is helpful that staffis rewarded directly by customers for being efficient and friendly. Most servers I know enjoy having some control over their income too. I’m a bit wary of the ‘service included’ some restaurants are experimenting with. After I eat, I know they’ve added 20 percent; then they still leave a tip line [on the bill] and I feel guilty.”

Restaurateur Ged Robertson of Shoreline Coffee Shop standardized his personal tipping habits a while ago. “It helps with not wasting time after a nice evening trying to figure it out,” he says. “Judging and math are two good ways to put a damper on the evening.”

Robertson usually leaves 20 percent on the total, including tax and all wine. Even if it’s a down day at a familiar place, “they already know they’re having an off shift; why make it worse?” He will occasionally go down to 15 percent if it’s a new (to him) place and he has a bad

experience. On the flip side, Robertson sometimes exceeds 20 percent during the holidays or at places he patronizes often. If he brings his own wine, he will add $5 or $10 to the tip, on top of corkage. He also adds more if the restaurant buys a round or sends out a complimentary food item. When you’re starting at the bar, he suggests adding a tip of up to $10, since the bartender did his/her job, yet would end up with only a percentage from the server. For other services, Robertson will tip 5 to 10 percent on takeout, $1 for coffee and $5 for valet parking. It’s very expensive to live in Marin, so he figures being a little generous to hospitality workers is good for our community.

✴ POSTAL WORKERS ✴ Ana Gutierrez, supervisor at the Corte Madera post office, reports that some people give carriers cash plus boxes of See’s candy as a thank-you during the holidays. “It all depends on how long the mail carrier has been delivering to the house,” as well as the route and whether it’s in an affluent area. “In general,” she says, “the average is $10 to $20, left in an envelope.” Interestingly, city employees are not allowed to accept cash tips and gifts worth more than $20. Ask your local service providers about their policy if you’re unsure.

✴ GARBAGE COLLECTORS ✴ Jim Lavarone, Mill Valley Refuse manager, reports things haven’t changed much in the last decade regarding how much people tip the trash guy. Now, as before, tip amounts depend on the relationship between household and collector and what people can afford; it’s not cut-and-dried like percentage of a restaurant check. “People still give what they can and the collectors are appreciative,” Lavarone says, and they’re also grateful for nonmonetary tips like homemade cookies or a bottle of wine. This really is an instance when it’s the thought that counts.

✴ PARKING✴ Mike Rosene, who has been a parking valet off and on for 20 years, says $3 to $5 per parked car is standard, though some customers tip $10 to $20. And some don’t tip at all. “For the past 10 years people’s tipping habits haven’t changed too much,” he adds. Working as a shuttle driver at SFO, he noticed some consistent riders always tipped $20 to $30 —“you build good relationships, establish and maintain rapport. Older folks seem to remember the art of tipping,” he notes. “But they don’t necessarily pass that along.”

✴ GARDENERS ✴ A little green for the greenery? Tipping a garden maintenance person or crew is sometimes overlooked, but the bonus is greatly valued. “Some customers are more into giving gifts like cookies and wine, even gift cards for lunch,” Franck Perdriel, owner of Le Jardinier Landscape Management, says. And people are more generous when the economy is strong. The average amount: $40 for a regular worker who’s been tending your turf for a while.

✴ DELIVERIES✴ People who order deliveries are still learning what to tip, according to Ashley Vielma, a former customer service representative for Postmates. The San Francisco–based logistics company, whose network of couriers deliver goods locally, has been compared to Uber for its mobile system of ordering and driver dispatch. “I think the more people understand the platform and how it works, the more they tip,” Vielma says. “Everyone I introduced to the service would tip when I let them know how much the couriers made.” New users “didn’t really tip,” she found, but “a 10 to 15 percent tip was normal for people who used Postmates a lot.” Sometimes, however, the third-party nature of delivery makes customers unclear on who’s responsible for what: “Most of the people who wrote bad reviews [of us] did not leave a tip even if their driver wasn’t at fault.” Her advice? “I always tip 15 percent, and if they go above and beyond, I’ll do 20.”

✴ UBER/LYFT ✴ “Honestly, tips are very rare for Uber drivers, one in 10 passengers,” says John Ince, author of Travels With Vanessa: An Uber / Lyft Driver Tries to Make Sense of It All. “Tips are less rare, but still rare, with Lyft. Generally a few bucks, maybe five, and once in a blue moon 20. If passengers did the math they would realize drivers don’t make enough to make the work worth their while, because the service is priced below market. But passengers don’t make the connection, and for a long while Uber told passengers tips were included, until a lawsuit stopped that practice.” Still, tipping should be viewed as an opening rather than an obligation, he believes: “It’s an opportunity to express appreciation for someone who helped you, touched you or inspired you. Tipping through the app is good; tipping with cash in person is better. It has more immediacy.”

✴ HOTELS ✴ We asked Jon Kimball, Tiburon resident and area general manager at Marriott Hotels, for any updates on hotel stafftipping norms and rates. A bellhop should get $1 to $2.50 for each bag toted, depending on how personalized the service, although with more use of rolling luggage such assistance is less in demand. Daily room-cleaning warrants a tip of $3 per night. The automobile valet should receive $2 to $5 for pickup alone, not counting extra reward for speed. A concierge typically gets $5 to $20 per request and, if service is stellar, another sum at the end of the stay. And don’t forget the door-person who hails your cab; $2 is now considered the minimum for such help. (With the rise of ride-share apps, cab-calling is less common.) If you need a toothbrush or sewing kit and housekeeping delivers it, consider an optional $2 per trip, but tipping isn’t necessary for basics like extra towels.

✴ NANNIES/HOUSEKEEPERS✴ The holidays are an ideal time to show your nanny, housekeeper or other helper just how glad for her assistance you are, notes Carrie Hillen, owner of Town + Country Resources. But there are no hard-and-fast rules for how much gratitude to show; it depends on what you can afford and how you feel about the quality of service. A traditional cash bonus is still the gift of choice for about half her clients, Hillen says; one to three weeks’ salary is a good guideline amount, with longevity of employment factored in.

✴ TEACHERS✴ At a time when teachers are raising the bar for achievement and courageously integrating more alternative teaching approaches, it can mean a lot to show support and appreciation. A few teachers at Park Elementary School say that during the holidays they often receive handmade cards, homemade sweet treats like brownies and even $50 Visa gift cards. Classroom parents also sometimes ask each family to donate to a larger teacher gift fund, and that amount is entirely up to each family. For coaches, you might consider $25 gift cards to Starbucks or Barnes & Noble. m

IN THE KITCHEN

Marin County is known for its farm-fresh produce and meats as well as its fresh seafood. With such a vibrant food scene and so many award-winning restaurants and inspired takes on food, we are spoiled when it comes to dining. In this section, take a look at some of the talent you will find behind the scenes at your favorite restaurants — the owners, chefs, servers and cooks who are passionate about making sure your dining experience is the best it can be. Here, meet some of the personalities that are driving this food revolution.

85 Liberty Ship Way, Suite 209, Sausalito, CA 415.332.5625, legaragebistrosausalito.com 39 Caledonia Street, Sausalito, CA 415.887.9047, eatf3.com RESTAURANT PROFILES

OLIVIER AND SUSANNAH SOUVESTRE & BRUNO DENIS

Owners

Le Garage is a Michelin-recommended waterfront bistro in Sausalito. Visiting Le Garage is like taking a trip to Southern France, serving French fare with a Californian flare, and open for lunch, brunch and dinner. They also offer waterfront dining and private events. F3/Fast Food Francais is a modern Sausalito restaurant and bar that dreams up French-kissed versions of American classics. It’s fast food the French way – civilized, elegant, and only as fast you want it to be. F3 has a full bar and is open for lunch, brunch and dinner. F3 caters and delivers to Sausalito, Mill Valley, Corte Madera and Tiburon. Owners Olivier Souvestre and Bruno Denis both hail from France, and Susannah Souvestre from Massachusetts. Olivier learned how to bake with his grandmother in their kitchen in Brittany, while Bruno, from Versailles, kicked off is restaurant career in Dublin, Ireland over twenty years ago. Susannah brings the American sensibility to the team, and together they enjoy shaking up the traditional expectations of French food.

RangeCafe Bar and Grill and The Clubhouse at Peacock Gap

333 Biscayne Drive, San Rafael, CA 415.453.4940, peacockgapclubhouse.com, rangecafe.net

MARIO PAMPIN

Executive Chef

Chef Mario Pampin divides his time between two stellar kitchens: RangeCafe Bar and Grill and The Clubhouse at Peacock Gap. His diverse culinary experience includes collaborations with chefs at renowned Bay Area restaurants. Chef Mario has transformed RangeCafe into much more than a golf course restaurant. The extensive menu includes his own, madefrom-scratch recipes using local and seasonal ingredients. Choose from American bistro fare to traditional Mexican favorites, with monthly and daily specials, served in a relaxing and family-friendly environment. At The Clubhouse, Mario is responsible for a wide array of imaginative banquet and catering options for new brides and corporate clients. Mario brings the same passion for culinary excellence whether you’re a new bride, corporate client or RangeCafe guest.

Perry’s on Magnolia

234 Magnolia Ave, Larkspur, CA 415.927.1877, perryssf.com

DAVID LUGO & PERRY BUTLER

Chef and Owner

Perry’s on Magnolia opened in Larkspur in 2015, in the historic Lark Creek Inn building. Bringing the Perry’s hallmarks to Marin County: the classic American menu, a bustling bar and the warmth and personality for which the restaurant has always been known, resulted in an enthusiastic welcome from the community, which continues to this day. Nestled among the redwood trees and along the bank of the Arroyo Holon Creek, Perry’s on Magnolia features a variety of outdoor dining options, on the Patio and in the Grove. Private dining options are available for groups from 10 to 100 people. Perry’s on Magnolia is open seven days a week for lunch, dinner and brunch on both Saturday and Sunday. Happy Hour every weekday from 3:00 to 6:30.

TODD SHOBERG

Executive Chef

Growing up on Lake Michigan, Todd Shoberg’s hospitality career began as a restaurant dishwasher, throughout high school. After attaining international cycling sponsorship, Shoberg spent winters in Albuquerque where, during an interview for a front-of-house restaurant position, the GM suggested Shoberg begin working in the kitchen. He cooked alongside Chef Jonathan Perno who gradually shifted Shoberg’s focus from cycling to cooking. Chef Perno later introduced him to Mitchell Rosenthal in San Francisco, where Shoberg relocated to work in the kitchen at Rosenthal’s restaurant, Town Hall. After a year in San Francisco, Shoberg began an Executive Sous Chef position at The Mediterranean in Boulder, Colorado. Two years later Shoberg relocated to Piatti in Mill Valley, reshaping the collection of restaurants from its flagship’s kitchen. An opportunity to open San Diego’s Stone Brewery compelled Shoberg to Southern California where he managed the then-new brewery from the kitchen. Returning to Mill Valley, Shoberg opened his own refined concept, Molina, to critical acclaim. Now the Executive Chef at El Paseo, Shoberg renews his focus on creating inventive Northern Californian cuisine enhanced by the bounty of local ingredients.

El Paseo

17 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley, CA 415.388.0741, elpaseomillvalley.com

Angelino Restaurant

621 Bridgeway, Sausalito, CA 415.331.5225, angelinorestaurant.com

ALFREDO ANCONA

Executive Chef/Owner

Chef Ancona was born in San Francisco and raised in Marin County. He graduated from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York. After working for Don Alfonso in Sorrento, Italy and at Roy’s Bar and Grill on Maui, Hawaii, Chef Ancona returned home to the appeal of Marin County to join his family in Sausalito at Angelino Restaurant. These experiences have helped develop a well-rounded, mature understanding of the possibilities of flavor combinations. Chef Ancona maintains a strong commitment to using local, sustainable, and seasonal ingredients in his kitchen.

Copita Tequileria y Comida

739 Bridgeway, Sausalito, CA 415.331.7400, copitarestaurant.com

JOANNE WEIR & DANIEL TELLEZ

Chef and Consulting Executive Chef

Copita is the vision of legendary restaurateur Larry Mindel and James Beard award-winning cookbook author and renowned chef, Joanne Weir. Located in downtown Sausalito, Copita’s Consulting Executive Chef Daniel Tellez serves contemporary Mexican cuisine in a lively, festive atmosphere. His impressive culinary resume includes time spent at Anona Neobistro, The Westin Santa Fe Hotel in Mexico City, and earlier on in his career, Tellez staged at the renowned three Michelin-starred restaurant, Quinzi e Gabrielli. At Copita, Tellez offers inspiration from his own Mexico City roots to provide an authentic Mexican menu featuring the traditional flavors and spices of Mexico and utilizing modern techniques. The menu is 100% gluten-free. Copita’s bar program features over 120 tequilas and innovative tequila cocktails. Copita has been voted Best Mexican Restaurant in the Bay Area by 7x7 magazine and featured as one of the best Mexican restaurants in San Francisco Magazine.

Executive Chef

Poggio is a classic Italian trattoria with comfortable neighborhood charm and destination-caliber cuisine. Executive Chef Benjamin Balesteri sources local ingredients from the best purveyors and highlights these quality products in the daily changing menu. Chef Balesteri offers a menu that features soulful classics of Northern Italy including a variety of antipasti, house-made pasta, spitroasted meats, and wood-fired pizzas. Poggio offers a special Tuesday Night Supper menu, a series of family-style meals reminiscent of the Italian-American tradition. The notable wine list emphasizes vintages from Italy and Northern California. Poggio has earned multiple 3-star reviews from the San Francisco Chronicle and placement within the coveted “Top 100 Restaurants in the Bay Area” rankings each year since 2008.

Poggio Trattoria

777 Bridgeway, Sausalito, CA 415.332.7771, poggiotrattoria.com

337 San Anselmo Ave, San Anselmo, CA (415) 454-7800, valentico.com

DUILIO VALENTI

Chef/Owner

Where do you draw your inspiration from? The commitment to use the amazing Marin County products. What is your goal? To be the best without being the beast. I approach food very seriously but take myself lightheartedly. My wife Maria and daughter Bianca are the same way, so we work well together. What would your alternate career choice have been? Orchestra conductor, but got rejected from the Milan Conservatory of Music. Turns out a chef is a kitchen conductor What challenges you as a chef? The hours. Not enough of them; everyday it’s a relentless rush to opening time. What is your favorite off-the-wall ingredient? Garrum, a fermented anchovy sauce. It’s like a seafood’s soy sauce, so stop making faces.

Frantoio Ristorante

152 Shoreline Hwy, Mill Valley, CA 415.289.5777, frantoio.com

ETHAN WINSBY & MATTHEW CALKINS

Chef and General Manager

Frantoio Ristorante offers local, organic, nongmo Italian cuisine and handcrafted libations in their family-owned restaurant which opened in 1995. Executive Chef Ethan Winsby lends a modern touch to classic Italian dishes, while General Manager Matthew Calkins is committed to your personal service. Frantoio Ristorante also features an extensive wine list, a robust happy hour and two private dining areas as well as outdoor patio seating. “Cent’anni”.

FERNANDO TELES

Executive Chef

Chef Fernando Teles was born and raised in the Central West region of Brazil. Fernando started working in the food and beverage industry as early as 12-year-old helping his family running their grocery store. At the age of 19, the young Chef opened his own tapas bar in Brazil. Fernando brings to Espetus Brazilian Steak House the authentic flavors of Brazil. He creatively combines the versatility of our local resources - locally grown produce and sourced meats - with traditional Brazilian recipes. The result is distinct flavors that reflect the genuine Southern Brazilian experience. Fourteen signature cuts of meat roasted over a mesquite grill, along with fresh seasonal salads prepared daily, and gourmet side dishes that reflect the bounty of the Brazilian cuisine, are the hallmarks of this culinary journey. Another unique characteristic of Espetus is the fact they have their own artisan butchery. The chef, also a professional butcher, leads the team to carefully expose each cut’s natural and unique flavors. Fresh house-made sausages are prepared weekly and often sought by regular diners who ask when the brand will launch a retail line.

Espetus Churrascaria Brazilian Steak House

1686 Market Street, San Francisco, CA 415.552.8792, espetus.com

335 San Anselmo Ave, San Anselmo, CA 415.454.9840, comfortscafe.com 22 Miller Ave, Mill Valley, CA 415.388.2000, piazzadangelo.com

GLENN, LAURA & ERIN MIWA

Owners

Comforts began 31 years ago as a small family restaurant. Built on the success of delicious, comfort food, friendly service, and seasonal offerings, Comforts has grown into a thriving business, offering catering, take-out, a full-service breakfast, lunch and brunch, as well as holiday specials. Husband and wife, Glenn and Laura Miwa, now pass the legacy on to daughter, Erin.

San Rafael Joe’s

931 Fourth Street, San Rafael, CA 415.456.2426 sanrafaeljoes.com

PAOLO PETRONE, FELICIA FERGUSON, LUIGI PETRONE & DOMENICO PETRONE

Owners

Piazza D’Angelo, a family owned Italian restaurant in the heart of downtown Mill Valley was established in 1981 by brothers Domenico and Paolo Petrone from Calabria, Italy. Today, the tradition continues as Domenico’s daughter, Felicia, and Paolo’s son, Luigi, carry on the family business. Piazza D’Angelo evokes a traditional trattoria dining experience with a unique sense of home comfort.

CHEZ BORNIA, CYNTHIA FARINA & CARLO FARINA

Your Hosts

San Rafael Joe’s is a veritable Marin County favorite, established in 1947 by the Rubinis and Farinas. Well-known for contemporary ItalianAmerican cuisine, modest prices, and convivial atmosphere, they are now celebrating over 70 years in business. Your hosts, Guido and Theresa Farina, along with their children Carlo and Cynthia, and nephew Chez, are the guiding forces behind the restaurant. Joe’s has grown steadily over the years and continues to welcome third and fourth generation families as their patrons.

303 Johnson Street, Sausalito, CA 415.332.1492, seafoodpeddler.com

FIDEL CHACON & RICHARD MAYFIELD

Executive Chef and General Manager/Owner

What is your menu for success? I try to treat my guests like they are guests in my home. Where do you draw your inspiration? I enjoy interacting with people, I get pleasure when guests have a great dining experience. What are three tips for running a successful restaurant? Keep your restaurant clean, food fresh and service excellent. What do you want your restaurant to be known for? I always want people to come into the restaurant and see other family, friends and neighbors all enjoying freshly cooked pastas and seafood.

Servino Ristorante

9 Main Street, Tiburon, CA 415.435.2676, servino.com

NATALE & VITTORIO SERVINO

Servino Ristorante Family

Located on the waterfront in downtown Tiburon, Servino Ristorante enjoys views of the San Francisco skyline and Angel Island. Family owned and operated since 1978, Servino specializes in homemade pastas, wood-oven baked pizzas, and locally influenced interpretations of classic Italian favorites, all while supporting the finest Marin purveyors of organic and sustainable vegetables, meats and seafood. Dine on the outdoor patio, have a drink while listening of Live Jazz in the cocktail lounge, or host your next special event in the upstairs private banquet room. Whatever your occasion, Servino is the perfect place to celebrate “la dolce vita”.