Local Getaways - June 2024

CALIFORNIA FLIP FOR SUMMER

Explore Bay Area and Beyond

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Welcome to Summer 2024!

Welcome to Marin Magazine ’s first Local Getaways flip book. Local Getaways is not new to our company. We first launched it as a standalone magazine in 2021 when we were still living in a pandemic. Aware that we all wanted to get out but options were limited, we created this beautiful print product focusing on the drive market, because let’s face it — we live in one of the most beautiful places on the planet. Mountains, ocean, sun, snow, sand, redwood trees and so much more — everything you could ever want is within driving distance in the Bay Area.

After buying Marin Magazine back, we put the magazine version of Local Getaways on hold while we reimagined how it would fit into our new ecosystem. Then voila — we decided to bring it back as our new summer guide!

In this issue we focus on the allure of staycations within the Bay Area. From San Francisco, to the heart of Silicon Valley and beyond, we highlight exciting newcomers and showcase insider favorites. Our aim is to inspire you to rediscover your backyard with fresh eyes, whether you’re seeking a romantic retreat or a family-friendly escape.

Another highlight in the issue is our spotlight on the legendary John Muir Trail. During the pandemic, my friends Lisa, Heather, Tammie and I upped our once-a-week hiking outings to hiking to numerous times a week. We began with three-mile hikes a few times a week up and down Mount Tamalpais and increased them to five–seven miles, and then 10–14 miles on weekends. Impressed by our stamina, we began talking about training for the John Muir Trail. It was probably more of a dream of mine than my friends’, but we were committed to get out as often as possible. For two years we explored so many trails on the mountain and beyond (every so often we would invite our husbands to join). Unfortunately, my knee had other plans and I had to shelve my hopes — until Victor Volta came around and shared his incredible 25-day trek covering the 226 miles. I made the decision to have a knee replacement and once again am inspired to pick up where I left off

As we delve into this iconic trek, Victor shares his invaluable insights and captivating stories from the trail. Whether you’re a seasoned hiker planning your next expedition or a nature enthusiast dreaming of wilderness adventures, this story has something for you.

With Local Getaways, we strive to create an immersive experience that sparks your curiosity and fuels your wanderlust. As you flip through these

pages, you’ll find inspiration, a calendar of events for things to do and other travel related tidbits.

We are not limited to these pages and have plenty of ideas for other places to stay, things to do, places to eat and road trip suggestions on our sister website localgetaways.com and Local Getaways app. Download it and you’ll even find some exclusive local perks!

We’d love to hear from you, so I invite you to connect with us and share your own travel experiences.

Cheers,

Nikki C. Nikki@localgetaways.com

Elegant Escape

Experience elegant private seated tastings of re ned méthode traditionnelle sparkling wines and pinot noir. Elevate any experience with an exquisite selection of local artisan cheeses, charcuterie, caviar and delectable vegan options, or enjoy an international gustatory journey with our Bubbles & Bites journey to Asia.

Photo Credit: David H. Collier Photography

Made in California

While everything does seem to be bigger in Texas, including the amount of state symbols — it has 70 — California boasts a whopping 43, ranging from dinosaur to folk dance. Here are four flora and fauna that symbolize the Golden State. By

KASIA PAWLOWSKA

Amphibian

These rust-hued hoppers — the largest native frogs in the western U.S. — haven’t had it easy. It’s estimated that miners during the Gold Rush era ate nearly 80,000 frogs per year, and in the coming decades, invasive species decimated 70% of its habitat range. They can now be found mostly in coastal regions from Marin County to northern Baja California.

Reptile

Desert tortoise

Gopherus agassizi

At full speed, this tortoise can cover an underwhelming distance of 20 feet per minute. It resides mostly in southwestern desert areas of California and played a key role in the passage of the California Desert Protection Act in 1994, even reportedly making an appearance in the White House for the bill signing.

Insect

Designated the state insect in 1972, this butter fly is endemic to California, found from the foothills of the Sierra Nevada to the Coast Ranges, and from Sonoma south to San Diego. It gets its unusual name from a yellow silhouette of a dog’s head on the male’s wings — females are usually entirely yellow with a black spot on the upper wings.

Bat

Pallid bat

Antrozous pallidus

Bats get a bad rap, but aside from eating insects like mosquitoes — helping to control the spread of diseases — the diet of California’s state bat also includes bark beetles, promoting healthy forests and trees. Pallid bats are social creatures that live in colonies and use various calls to communicate. They weigh only about an ounce, but their wingspan can measure up to 16 inches in length.

Marine

Garibaldi

Fish

Hypsypops rubicundus

Historically known as the Catalina gold fi sh, you’re most likely to encounter garibaldi in shallow waters along the Southern California coast. Growing to just over a foot in length, young garibaldi are even more vibrant than their older counterparts, sporting bright-blue spots on their reddish orange bodies.

Mushroom

California golden chanterelle

Cantharellus californicus

Sometimes called the mud puppy or oak chanterelle, the California golden chanterelle is a large, edible mushroom with a golden-orange color and white fl esh. These mushrooms can grow to be larger than two pounds, making them the largest known species of chanterelle. They also have a symbiotic relationship with California trees — especially oaks — help nourish root systems, and keep soil healthy by breaking down dead wood and storing carbon in the ground.

California red-legged frog

Rana draytonii

California dogface butter fl y Zerene eurydice

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California Road Trip

GOLD country

By Matt Poole

Few things are as emblematic of California as the gold rush of 1849. San Francisco’s football team is named in honor of the event, but did you know that a highway is as well? State Route 49 — also known as Golden Chain Highway — passes through historic mining communities in Tuolumne, Calaveras and Amador Counties among others. Here’s a closer look at some not-to-be-missed spots.

Pan for gold. The discovery of gold in a tiny town called Colma created a ripple effect to secure California’s place as our nation’s third-largest and most populous state. This area arguably also boasts some of the most beautiful scenic drives in the world.

In the town of Volcano, you can find the Black Chasm Cavern, which boasts rare helictite crystals.

Calaveras Big Trees

State Park preserves two groves of giant sequoias, the world's largest trees. 3

The Gold Rush town of Columbia was once the state’s second-largest city with an estimated population of 25,000 to 30,000 people. 4

Wine tasting? Yes! Grapes have been grown here for both eating and wine since the Gold Rush. In 1987, Sierra Foothills American Viticultural Area was established in eight counties including Tuolumne, Calaveras and Amador.

Travel Made Easy

Your journey and destination will be smoother than ever thanks to these sleek and sensible items. By Kasia

Pawlowska

1 Cotopaxi Cubos Del Dia Travel Cubes, $50

These vibrant cubes are made with repurposed materials by employees who are given creative control to determine its oneof-a-kind colorway motif, so no two are alike. rei.com

2

Loops Beauty Variety Loop Mask 5 pack, $30

Banish dry airplane skin with ease. Each of these masks has a textured interior that sticks to skin, allowing you to move about while the serums do their job. loopsbeauty.com

3 Noshinku bergamot pocket sprayer, $9

This naturallyformulated sanitizer leaves hands clean and refreshed with a crisp, citrus-cedar scent. Not only that, it’s also purse-and pocket-friendly and refi llable. noshinku.com

The Honeycomb, (Set of 7) $154

These customizable containers are leakproof and magnetic and can be fi lled with any personal care product, from serums to shampoos, to jewelry and vitamins. keepyourcadence.com

Wire Cable for AirTag, $20

A wire cable attaches your AirTag to your belongings and includes a hex key to lock the AirTag in place — no more lost luggage! apple.com

Fun All Summer Long

Whether you’re looking for fun close to home or a new experience in a fresh locale, keep summer exciting with these events.

JUNE

June 1

Mill Valley Pride in the Plaza, with other events all month long (Mill Valley), millvalleyrecreation.org +#

June 2

The 41st annual Union Street Festival, between Fillmore and Octavia, June 1–2 (San Francisco), unionstfestival.com +#

June 4

San Francisco Documentary Film Festival, May 30–June 9 (S.F.), filmfreeway.com/ sanfranciscodocumentaryfestival

June 5

Napa Valley Jazz Getaway, June 5–9 (Napa), jazzgetaway.com

June 6

San Francisco Jazz Festival, June 5–16 (S.F.), sfjazz.org

June 7

Jazz and Blues by the Bay at Gabrielson Park, every Friday at 6–8 p.m. through September 13 (Sausalito), sausalito.gov *+#

June 8 The 40th annual Novato Festival of Art, Wine and Music, June 8–9 (Novato), novatochamber.com +#

June 9 The Mountain Play presents Kinky Boots, June 2, 8, 9, 16 (Mill Valley), mountainplay.org #

r Marin County Fair

June 12 Beautiful trails, music and refreshments at Filoli Historic House and Gardens’ Summer Nights series, every Wed and Thurs starting June 12 (Woodside), filoli.org *

June 14 Country Summer Music Festival, June 14–16 (Santa Rosa), countrysummer.com

June 15 Freedom Festival for Juneteenth in the Fillmore District from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. (S.F.), juneteenth-sf.org +#

June 16 The 70th annual North Beach Festival, June 15–16 (S.F.), northbeach festival.org +#

June 19 Wine and Sunset Series with live music at Paradise Ridge Winery, Wednesday evenings 6–8 p.m. (Santa Rosa), prwinery.com

June 20 Rock the Block Novato: Kick Off ummer street party, June 20 at 6–9 p.m. (Novato) downtownnovato.com +#

June 21 Sausalito Pride, June 20–22 (Sausalito), sausalitopride.org #+

June 22 8th annual Marin City Juneteenth Community Festival at Rocky Graham Park from 10:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. (Marin City), juneteenth communityfestival.info +#

June 23 Sonoma-Marin Fair, June 20–23 (Petaluma), sonoma-marinfair.org #

June 25 San Francisco International LGBTQ+ Film Festival, June 19–29 (S.F.), frameline.org

June 26 S.F. Asian Art Museum presents Phoenix Kingdoms: The Last Splendor of China’s Bronze Age, through July 22 (S.F.), asianart.org #

June 28 Evenings with the Stars at Lick Observatory, select Fridays and Saturdays through August 24 (Mount Hamilton), lickobservatory.org

June 29 Saturday Night concerts at Hamilton Amphitheater, on the fi nal Saturdays June–August at 5–7 p.m. (Novato), novato.org/events *+#

June 30 San Francisco Pride Parade, sfpride.org +#

JULY

July 2 Brazil vs. Colombia Copa America match at Levi’s Stadium, (Santa Clara), levisstadium.com #

July 3 Bay Area Discovery Museum’s free admission on the fi rst Wednesday of every other month (Sausalito), bayareadiscoverymuseum.org *+#

July 4 Independence Day Parade through downtown Novato, 10 a.m., novatoparade.com +#

July 5 Marin County Fair with fun, games and music, July 3–7 (San Rafael), marinfair.org #

City Juneteenth Community Festival

* throughout summer; + free; # family-friendly

Marin

Feeling Fresh!

Here are some of the farmers markets happening around Marin throughout summer. *+#

Fairfax: Wednesdays 4–8 p.m., through October 30 at Bolinas Park, townoff airfax.org

Corte Madera: Wednesdays from noon to 5 p.m. at Town Center, shoptowncenter.com

Point Reyes Station: Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m., June 8 through November 2 at Toby’s Feed Barn agriculturalinstitute.org/point-reyes

Downtown San Rafael: Thursdays from 5:30–8:30 p.m., through August 29 on Fourth Street, agriculturalinstitute. org/san-rafael-summer

Novato: Tuesdays 4–8 p.m. on Sherman Ave., through October 29, novato.org

Marin Farmers Market: From 8 a.m. to 1 p.m., Sundays at the Civic Center and Thursdays at Northgate (returning to Civic Center on August 1), agriculturalinstitute.org

July 6 Fillmore Jazz Festival, July 6–7, 10 a.m.–6 p.m. (San Francisco), fillmore jazzfest.com +#

July 7 Summer Music Series at the Town Center, Sundays from July 2 through September 17 (Corte Madera), shoptown center.com *+#

July 10 Zanele Muholi: Eye Me at SFMOMA, through August 11 (S.F.), sfmoma.org

July 11 Marin Shakespeare’s Much Ado About Nothing at Forest Meadows Amphitheatre, select dates June 28 through July 28 (San Rafael), marinshakespeare. org #

July 13 Sonoma County Hot Air Balloon Classic, July 13–14 (Santa Rosa), schabc.org #

July 14 Corte Madera summer concert

series, every Sunday June 9 through August 25 (Corte Madera), cortemadera communityfoundation.org *+#

July 15 Dozens of events and wineries at Festival Napa Valley, July 6–21 (Napa), festivalnapavalley.org

July 16 San Jose Restaurant Week, July 11–21 , sjdowntown.com/dine-downtown

July 18 San Francisco Jewish Film Festival, July 18–August 4 (S.F.) jfi .org

July 19 Concerts on the Civic Green in downtown Novato, select Fridays through August 16 at 6–8 p.m., novato.org/events *+#

July 20 Mendocino Music Festival, July 13–27 (Mendocino), mendocinomusic.org #

July 21 Stern Grove free concert series at 19th Ave and Sloat Blvd, 2 p.m. Sundays

 Stern Grove Festival

from June 23–August 25, (S.F., with free online stream available from anywhere), sterngrove.org *+#

July 23 Listen to music and sip wine at the SIP Healdsburg festival, July 23–28 songwritersinparadise.com

July 26 Cheer on hometown favorites San Rafael Paci fics vs. Martinez at Albert Park, 6 p.m. (San Rafael), pacifi csbaseball.com *#

July 27 Beatles in the Park tribute concert at Creek Park (San Anselmo), sananselmoarts.org

July 28 Cheer on or keep up at the San Francisco Marathon (S.F.), thesfmarathon.com

AUGUST

August 1 Free movies on the beach at the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk, Friday nights June 14–August 9 beachboard walk.com *+#

August 2 Block Party with music and food at the Gilman Wine Block’s every fi rst Friday of the month, (Berkeley), donkeyandgoat.com/product/fridayblock-party *+#

August 3 World Dog Sur fi ng Championships in Paci fica, 9 a.m. to 12:30 p.m., surfdogchampionships.com +#

August 4 The 50th Annual Nihonmachi Street Fair in Japantown, August 3–4 (S.F.), nihonmachistreetfair.org +#

Wine Time

Enjoy the pleasures of Wine Country in the summertime with these tasting experiences.

Domaine Carneros: Go on a culinary adventure with the Bubbles & Bites: A Journey to Southeast Asia food and wine pairing experience, available by appointment daily. (Napa) domainecarneros.com

Louis M. Martini: Outdoor tastings with bites in a private cabana, available for reservations Thursday through Sunday. (Saint Helena) louismartini.com

J Vineyards & Winery: Five courses of food and wine pairings from the J Bubble Room, available for reservation most Thursdays through Sundays. (Healdsburg) jwine.com

Sterling Vineyards: A hilltop premier tasting experience for the Founder’s Experience, available for reservations Friday–Sunday. (Calistoga) sterlingvineyards.com

KEY: * throughout summer; + free; # family-friendly

Etude Wines: Sip while listening to acoustic music in the courtyard for Etude Unplugged, every Friday in June and July from noon to 5 p.m. (Napa) etudewines.com

Festival Napa Valley

August 5 Enjoy an afternoon of Music in the Vineyards, August 2–25 (Napa), music inthevineyards.org #

August 6 Sonoma County Fair, August 1–11 (Santa Rosa), sonomacountyfair.com #

August 7 Open mic night at HopMonk Tavern, every Wednesday (Novato), hopmonk.com *+

August 8 After Dark Thursdays for a 21+ crowd at the Exploratorium (S.F.), exploratorium.edu *

August 9 Outside Lands Music Festival, August 9–11 (San Francisco), sfoutsidelands.com #

August 10 Gravenstein Apple Fair, August 10–11 (Sebastopol), gravensteinapplefair.com

August 11 Star Wars Day at Oracle Park as the Giants face off gainst Detroit, at 1:05 p.m. (S.F.), mlb.com/giants #

August 14 Lunch & Listen outdoor concerts in downtown Oakland, every Wednesday from 12–1 p.m. from June through September, oaklandcentral.com *+#

August 15 Four weekends of musical revues in the Field of Dreams by Transcendence Theatre, June 20–23, July 25–28, August 15–18, September 19–22 (Sonoma), transcendencetheatre.org #

August 16 Cotati Accordion Festival, August 16–18 , cotatifest.com #

August 17 Head to the mountains for the Brews, Jazz & Funk Fest (Lake Tahoe), palisadestahoe.com #

August 18 Music and family fun at Terrapin Crossroads’ Sunday Daydream at McNears Beach Park, July 21 and August 18 (San Rafael), sundaydaydream.com #

August 24 A Midsummer Night’s Dream at Old Mill Park Amphitheater, 2 p.m. on Saturdays and Sundays from August 10 to September 2 (Mill Valley) curtain theatre.org *+#

August 25 Treasure Fest, every last weekend of the month (Treasure Island), treasurefest.com *#

August 26 The 27th Annual Bodega Seafood, Art and Wine Festival, August 26–27 (Bodega Bay), bodegaseafood festival.com

August 30 Celebrate Black culture with music and food at the Black Radio Experience festival, Aug 30–September 1 (Napa), bluenotejazz.com/ black-radio-experience

KEY: * throughout summer; + free; # family-friendly

 Gravenstein Apple Fair

Tahoe Events

Check out these not-to-be-missed events.

June 1 Travel back in time at Lake Tahoe Historical Society’s Western Days, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. visitlaketahoe.com +#

June 8 Enjoy delicious bites on a stroll along scenic Lake Tahoe at the Tahoe City Food and Wine Classic, tcfoodand wine.com

June 15 The 7th Annual Brewfest at Heavenly Village, 1–5 p.m., theshopsat heavenly.com

June 18–August 27 Summer Bluesdays outdoor concerts at Palisades Tahoe, Tuesdays at 6–8:30 p.m., palisadestahoe. com *+#

June 20–August 15 Food, music and shopping at Truckee Thursdays Summer Street Festival every Thursday from 5–9 p.m., truckeethursdays.com *+#

June 20–21, July 20-21, August 18–19 Kayak tours under the full moon, tahoe adventurecompany.com

 Brewfest at Heavenly Village

Enjoy

the best of Monterey on Cannery Row

Natural wonders abound in Monterey, and there simply is no better place to experience it all than with a stay on Cannery Row. Known for its picturesque charm and colorful history, guests to this fabled street can enjoy a unique combination of luxurious waterfront hotels, enticing restaurants and captivating boutiques. Come, slow down and enjoy the best of Monterey on Cannery Row.

Summer Staycations

New and notable places to eat and stay without leaving the Bay.

BY KASIA PAWLOWSKA

7 Adams

SAN FRANCISCO

Stay

LUMA

Seamless service with a futuristic touch is what LUMA is all about. The hotel’s robotic team members — HENRY, LUMIE and LUCY — deliver orders placed via QR code from TWYNE coffee bar or snacks from the bodega at the front desk. LUMA’s location between Oracle Park and Chase Center is another added convenience. lumahotels.com/san-francisco

The LINE

Experience the sophisticated allure of The LINE, where rooms are an upscale sanctuary, adorned with local artwork and Cowshed bath products. With dining options galore, guests can enjoy multicultural cuisine at Gather, take in panoramic city views at Rise Over Run or start their day with an espresso at Alfred. For an intimate cocktail experience, visit Dark Bar, where Danny Louie crafts drinks celebrating the city's rich Asian heritage. thelinehotel.com/san-francisco

Eat & Drink

PACIFIC COCKTAIL HAVEN

Just off nion Square on Sutter Street, Pacific ocktail Haven (P.C.H.) was

recently honored as number 28 in North America's World’s 50 Best Bars. Despite a setback from a fi re in 2021, P.C.H. emerged stronger, maintaining its renowned level of hospitality. Now, guests can make the most of sunny days while imbibing Asian-Pacific nspired, awardwinning cocktails on the new outdoor patio. pacifi ccocktailsf.com

7 ADAMS

In the heart of Pacific eights, 7 Adams beckons with a vibrant and walletfriendly pri x fi xe menu. Chef David Fisher's culinary vision, named after

his childhood home address, is a meticulously curated experience. With a cozy ambiance, attentive service and a menu brimming items like Berkshire pork collar and celery root ravioli, every meal is sure to delight. 7adamsrestaurant.com

ELENA’S MEXICAN RESTAURANT

A buzzy addition to West Portal, from the family of San Francisco's Original Joe's, Elena's offers Mexican-Californian delights, honoring Elena

Duggan's daughters' heritage. Designed by Duggan herself, the restaurant harmonizes casual comfort and modern sophistication, inspired by annual visits to Mexico and a California upbringing. With opulent dishes like Dungeness crab enchiladas and tres leches cake, this spot is worth any wait. elenasmexican.com

MOVIDA

Uncover Movida, a Persian and Mexican fusion gem in SoMa, located near Oracle Park. The chef-driven menu reimagines these distinct cuisines, showcasing authentic spices in innovative, one-of-akind dishes like the tadig birria tostada and pomegranate adobo chicken taquitos with labneh, walnut adobo sauce and nigella seeds. This ethos extends to the cocktails, with showstoppers like Leon Y Sol — made with tequila, sa ff ron, acidulated orange, orange blossom, citrus, orgeat and tajin. movidalounge.com

SOUTH BAY Stay

AMESWELL HOTEL

The Ameswell Hotel, ideally situated near downtown Mountain View, offers proximity to Shoreline Amphitheatre, Levi’s Stadium and the Stanford Shopping Center. Soak up the sun poolside and retreat to luxurious comforts like Rivolta Italian linens and organic bath amenities from Juice Beauty back in your room. theameswellhotel.com

GRADUATE PALO ALTO

DON’T MISS THE NIGHT MARKETS!

CHINATOWN Every second Friday of 2024

DOWNTOWN FIRST THURSDAYS From May 2, 2024 to April 3, 2025

SUNSET NIGHT MARKET

Periodic Fridays hopefully starting early Summer 2024

Located in the thick of downtown Palo Alto, just blocks from Stanford University, the Spanish Colonial building dates back to 1929 — when it was known as Hotel President. An extensive renovation yielded the Graduate Palo Alto in 2023. Linger with a cocktail and relish views of the neighborhood from President’s Terrace, the hotel’s rooftop restaurant. graduatehotels.com/ palo-alto

The LINE

Movida

Shades of Green Landscape Architecture

Transform your garden into a luxurious retreat with Shades of Green Landscape Architecture. For 20 years, Shades of Green has been creating stunning landscapes across Marin County and beyond. From intimate residential gardens to expansive projects, they blend innovation with sustainability to create award-winning designs. Looking to add a touch of resort-style relaxation to your property? Shades of Green can design the perfect pool oasis for your outdoor space. Contact them today to discuss your project.

1306A Bridgeway Blvd, Sausalito, 415.332.1485, shadesofgreenla.com

GIRL FINE JEWELRY 1321 4th St., San Rafael, CA californiagirlfinejewelry.com

JUNE 20-23 | SUMMERTIME! JULY 25-28 | DON’T STOP US NOW AUG 15-18 | DANCING IN THE STREET SEPT 19-22 | THE GALA: A SENTIMENTAL JOURNEY

Eat & Drink

MAZRA

Run by brothers Jordan and Saif Makableh, Redwood City’s Mazra is a family a ffair. Inspired by the Makableh’s Jordanian heritage, here you’ll taste secret recipes passed down through generations, showcasing the flavors of the Levant region with a touch of personal flair. Fun fact: Mazra means "farm" in Arabic! eatmazra.com

ROBIN

Indulge in contemporary, locally sourced omakase at Robin Menlo Park — the winning formula the San Francisco location is lauded for. With an impeccable beverage program, guests can sip on Japanese whiskey highballs, enjoy premium sake from top producers and explore a selection of California wines and craft beers. robinomakase.com

Located inside a historic train caboose alongside Highway 1 in Half Moon Bay, Dad’s Luncheonette serves roadside classics with a Californian twist. While it’s known for un-fussy burgers on white bread with no substitutions, owner Scott Clark’s fi ne-dining background is betrayed in the details — all the condiments are made in-house!

dadsluncheonette.com

EAST BAY Stay

CLAREMONT CLUB & SPA

“The White Castle on the Hill” is set on 22 acres of landscaped grounds, an elegant landmark since 1915, and just moments from the Oakland side of the Bay Bridge. In addition to superior accommodations — many rooms have views of San Francisco Bay — plus chef-led dining at Limewood Restaurant, hotel guests have member privileges and facilities: tennis, swimming , fitness classes and spa treatments. fairmont.com/claremont-berkeley

BERKELEY CITY CLUB

“The Little Castle” earned this name because its esteemed architect, Julia Morgan, also designed the famous Hearst Castle on a mountaintop south of Big Sur. Opened in 1930, this elegant property

— which is on the National Register of Historic Places — is all about its gracious presentation and urban location in downtown Berkeley. The heated indoor pool is a must! berkeleycityclub.com

GRADUATE BERKELEY

Forget minimalism. Graduate Hotels go for maximum impact and a hyper-local approach, always in tune with the nearest center of higher learning — in this case, UC Berkeley. Formerly Hotel Durant, the 144-room property housed in a historic building was newly branded in 2017. This hotel doesn’t take itself too seriously. A lobby mobile is made from books, the walls are decorated with yearbook photos and shower curtains are dictionary-themed. graduatehotels.com/berkeley

Eat & Drink

THREE.ONE FOUR

The newly opened three.one four is located in Berkeley's Gilman District, housed in the renowned Lalime space. Here, Chef Mario Vollera's artisanal sourdough pizzas blend Italian cheeses with local freshness. A diverse global wine selection will complement your meal for an unforgettable dining journey.

threeonefourpizzeria.com

BURDELL

Nestled in Oakland's Temescal neighborhood, Burdell channels Chef Geoff avis's culinary homage to his maternal grandmother. This soul food haven embodies familial warmth and the often-overlooked legacy of Black agriculture on American cuisine. With a menu bursting with locallysourced ingredients and a wine selection focused on sustainability, Burdell invites guests to savor the joy of shared meals. burdelloakland.com

Three One Four

Robin

DAD’S LUNCHEONETTE

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CELEBRATING 30 YEARS IN MARIN

Eva Claiborne, Master Aesthetician, works alongside daughter Eva Temby, Evike, embracing a legacy of modern aesthetic technology and superior client-based service.

86 B Main St, Tiburon, CA I 415.435.4326 tiburonskincare.com

In The CJM’s first major open call exhibition, discover how artists from the Golden State are looking to the many aspects of Jewish culture, identity, and community to explore connection.

Open Jun 6–Oct 20, 2024

Also Opening Jun 6

Leah Rosenberg: When One Sees a Rainbow

Evike and Eva

Hiking the John Muir Trail

Nüümü Poyo is the original name for the network of centuries-old trade routes throughout the High Sierra. In 1914, John Muir, a.k.a. Father of the National Parks who was president of the Sierra Club, died unexpectedly, and to honor him, club members came up with the idea of renaming the 214-mile trail that starts in the Sierra Nevadamountain range and passes through Yosemite, Kings Canyon and Sequoia National Parks, after him.

PHOTOS AND STORY BY VICTOR VOLTA

For a great many backpackers who are fortunate enough to experience the John Muir Trail in California’s Sierra Nevada mountains, the adventure is a long-time entry on their bucket list. It was a little di fferent for me since it went from idea to action in a matter of months. In late November of 2013, I was visiting Yosemite Valley on a two-day trip. On the fi rst day, after driving through rain and even snow on Big Oak Flat Road to reach the valley, I climbed the Mist Trail under clearing skies to the top of Nevada Fall.

Sitting alongside the trail, bundled against the autumn chill, I rested before the descent. While peeling an orange, I heard the rustling of a squirrel or bird in the manzanita behind me. Turning around to look, I was met with a trail sign for the John Muir Trail, with mileages to various points further on. At the bottom, the mileage to Mount Whitney — 215 miles. I’d been to the top of Mount Whitney twice before as arduous 23-mile day hikes in 2010 and 2012, but I’d never considered trying to reach it via the John Muir Trail. At least not until that day. From that moment, the idea latched onto my brain like a virus, and it became an obsession for the next two years. Just nine months later, I made it slightly more than halfway through the trail before a lower back strain forced me off arly. I returned for a rematch the following summer, more experienced and with a lighter pack, and was able to complete a 226-mile adventure in 25 days.

Yosemite National Park

I began on a Thursday morning in mid-July, ahead of the summer crowds — it would take me slightly more than four days (approximately 36 miles) to reach the Yosemite/Ansel Adams Wilderness border at Donohue Pass (elevation 11,056’). The fi rst three days had me traveling generally in a northeast direction before the southern turn at Tuolumne Meadows. Taking those fi rst steps from Happy Isles, the JMT’s traditional starting point, I was fi lled with unbridled excitement. Anticipating the sights and experiences that awaited me, I was exhilarated at the outset and felt like I could take fl ight, were it not for the immense pack I had strapped to my back. Photos showed me with a wide smile, clean clothes and reasonably well groomed before I tapped my hiking poles twice for luck, a ritual I’d picked up somewhere along the way, and took those fi rst steps up the trail.

On the morning of Day 2, I came across the fi re-damaged forest in Little Yosemite Valley that was decimated during the nearly 5,000-acre Meadow Fire the previous September. I’d been expecting it, but it was still emotionally jarring to see. At fi rst, I found the blackened landscape fascinating, with charred skeletons of trees reaching into the sky like black spears and the hopeful signs of new life already springing from the ground along Sunrise Creek. But after more than an hour of walking through the damage, it wore on my spirit, and I was relieved t o fi nally reach healthy forest as the hard climb up Sunrise Mountain began.

On Day 4, heading south, shortly after leaving Tuolumne Meadows, I met a young couple from Santa Cruz, Becky and Todd. I was crouched low, photographing some colorful blooms of groundsel when they passed, and we exchanged hellos. We leapfrogged several times and eventually we chatted a bit longer. Over the next two weeks, we’d see each other almost daily and they became “trail family.” There’s a lot of solitude on the trail and hiking it solo can make it seem lonely — seeing them and others I met along the way lifted my spirits. They pulled ahead for good at Vermilion Valley Resort at about the 92-mile mark, but not before exchanging contact information.

Ansel Adams Wilderness

Upon reaching Donohue Pass and taking those fi rst steps into Ansel Adams Wilderness, I was treated to an expansive view to the distant south, phalanxes of ranges and peaks spread to the horizon like sentinels, seemingly challenging me, beckoning me forward. It was breathtaking and daunting in equal measure.

In 1984 the California Wilderness Act enlarged the Minarets Wilderness and the name was changed to the Ansel Adams Wilderness to honor the landscape photographer, known for his photography of Yosemite National Park, the Sierra Nevada, and his wilderness advocacy work with the Sierra Club.

I spent my 55th birthday (Day 7) intent on reaching Red’s Meadow Resort near Devils Postpile National Monument, where

DAY 1 ( previous page)

Two miles into the adventure — Nevada Fall with Liberty Cap to its left, the backside of Half Dome at far left.

DAY 2 ( above )

Burnt forest in Little Yosemite Valley from the 2014 Meadow Fire.

DAY 6 ( right )

Unnamed pond at Island Pass with Mount Ritter and Banner Peak in the distance.

my second resupply package awaited me. It meant a 13.8-mile day, the second longest of the entire trip, although much of it was downhill. But it was well worth it as what awaited me was a transcendent hot shower, hot (non-dehydrated) meals at the Mule House Cafe, a fi re pit and a cigar to celebrate.

As I slung my bulging Gregory pack off my orso upon arriving at Red’s, the heavy duty stitching on the top strap gave way. Upon inspection, I realized it would take more than duct tape and prayer to fi x. Luckily, it broke when it did. Day 8 would be my fi rst rest day — “zero day” in backpacker parlance.

I took the shuttle into Mammoth Lakes and found a local seamstress with a heavy-duty sewing machine. She did a great job, because seven-and-half years later, the stitch is still holding. Over the course of my stay, I took full advantage of the cafe, cramming as many calories down my gullet as I could.

John Muir Wilderness

Among the backpacker community, Vermilion Valley Resort (VVR) on the shore of Lake Thomas Edison* is legendary for its hospitality, great food and homemade pies. Although I’d had a rest day just days earlier, I didn’t want to miss a chance for another visit after enjoying my 2014 stay so thoroughly. The night of my arrival, I camped in the backpackers’ camp, but

for the second night, I splurged for a cabin. It would be my last chance for a hot shower, good food and a bed until I got to my motel in Lone Pine, east of Mount Whitney, in 13 days.

The stay surpassed my expectations. The food, shower and bed were sublime. But what made it special was sitting around the communal fi re pit the fi rst night with other campers, while Todd and Becky, who’d arrived that afternoon, played music and sang for us. Both were talented musicians — Todd played the mandolin at home, Becky, the violin and vocals — who performed at various venues occasionally. With Todd on the house guitar and Becky singing, everyone sat, smiling, enjoying the warmth of the fi re, the music and the togetherness under the stars. Finally, after the property generators shut off t 10 p.m., we all started drifting back to our tents, campers or cabins. It would be the last I’d see of Becky and Todd on the trip, since they’d be back on the trail again the next morning.

The next night by the fi re, I had the great fortune of meeting another group that would become my trail family for the rest of the trip. They were a delightful family from Michigan: Michael and Michelle, the parents, and their impressively self-su fficient twelve-year-old daughter, Margaret. As we talked in front of the fi re that night, Margaret shared that she’d volunteered to wash dishes in the café and her reward was unlimited milkshakes. Trail nicknames are usually a Paci fic Crest Trail tradition, but I told her that from now on, her trail name was “Milkshake,” keeping the family pattern of alliteration intact.

Two days after leaving the comforts of VVR (Day 14), I was less than half a mile from reaching my fi nal resupply at Muir Trail Ranch, descending a steep section of trail when I severely turned my right ankle. It was bad enough that I let out a yelp, followed by some eloquent profanities, and had to wait a bit for the pain to subside before resuming. I could tell immediately that I’d sprained it, but I couldn’t tell how badly. I limped the rest of the way to the ranch.

While my other food caches were in the four-to-six-day range, I now had the challenge of cramming 11 days of food into my bear canister. And unlike my other loads, I’d have no extra food, so staying on schedule was paramount. My allotment had to last me the fi nal 112 miles.

The trip took on a new intensity as I prepared to enter Kings Canyon National Park where the terrain was harder, and the passes were higher, but I relished this and looked forward to the challenge. Starting the next day (Day 15), I wrapped and taped my ankle each morning and swallowed a couple of Aleves. At camp each afternoon, I soaked it in cold streams. It was swollen, tender and bruised, and a ffected my pace, but I soldiered on despite the pain. It fi nally improved after about a week. (*The resort is in the Sierra National Forest, not the John Muir Wilderness.)

Kings Canyon National Park

On Day 16 I camped at the spectacular Evolution Lake (10,852’ — highest camp so far), favored by many in the JMT community. I

found an exquisite spot along the lake outlet not far from a waterfall that dropped into Evolution Valley. Early that evening, I was treated to a spectacular, jaw-dropping, post thunderstorm light show with astounding interplays of peaks, clouds and sunlight in every direction. As I sat looking over the valley as the sun sank in the west, part of me simply wanted to take it in, while the photographer in me couldn’t stop reaching for my camera — which itself proved extra problematic.

After crossing a creek on the climb to Evolution Lake, my Nikon unexpectedly released from its clip on my backpack strap and crashed, lens fi rst against a rock. Looking at the damage, I was dismayed when I saw that the lens mount had cracked and wouldn’t stay attached to the camera body. I sat on a boulder in the shade and after 30 minutes of creative MacGyvering and liberal use of duct tape, I was able to get the camera and lens working again, although for the rest of the trip, I’d have to manually focus the lens.

163 miles into the trip, I camped near the Bench Lake Ranger Station (Day 19). My morning featured a hard climb up Mather Pass on a still tender ankle, followed by another hard 1,000’ climb in the afternoon. Nevertheless, I was buoyant and especially joyful this evening as after dinner I strolled around a nearby pond and then sat in a meadow taking in one of my favorite views of the trip — Upper Basin in the distance to the north, Mather Pass even further on. As I sat, seeing a glorious view that no one else on Earth was witnessing at that moment, I was overcome with emotion, reflecting on all the time I’d spent over the previous nearly two years, obsessing about the trail, the training, and hard work it took to get me to this one meadow in the Sierra.

Sequoia National Park

Although I still had Mount Whitney to conquer the next day, Forester Pass (13,180’) was the last pass to climb, and marked my entry into Sequoia National Park (Day 23). The previous morning before breaking camp, to my surprise, my ankle had improved almost to the point of declaring it a miracle. It was great timing since I was coming upon the hardest section of the trip. Once beyond the pass, I cruised across the basin, feeling turbocharged with my improved ankle, toward Tyndall Creek, with Diamond Mesa looming behind me and dramatic clouds above. This would be my longest day on the trail, logging 16.8 miles.

Predictably, reaching the Mount Whitney summit (14,505’) early in the afternoon on Day 24 was an emotional moment, and I wept tears of joy and relief. I woke hours earlier than usual and hiked the fi rst few hours by headlamp. Inexplicably, even with a satellite phone paired with an app on my iPhone to help me navigate, about 45 minutes up the trail below Timberline Lake, I got turned around in the darkness after stepping off he trail to answer a call of nature. I didn’t realize the mistake until a signpost came into view at 5 a.m. that had me back at Crabtree Meadow where I’d started. It was terribly deflating, and I was furious at myself for the idiocy of not noticing clues that were

( clockwise from top left)

DAY 14

Sunset along the South Fork of the San Joaquin River

DAY 24

Guitar Lake shortly after sunrise as I begin my hard climb to the Mount Whitney summit.

DAY 24

My trail family and I at the summit of Mt. Whitney. Success and exultation.

obvious in retrospect. With sleeping campers nearby, I silently cursed myself to the heavens for fear of waking them. But my only option was to grit my teeth and start again. For the rest of the day, I couldn’t shake the constant thought that I should be two or three miles further up the trail, and I’d wasted 90 minutes of precious energy.

It was a moderate climb to Guitar Lake from my camp at Crabtree Meadow, then a brutal ascent up endless switchbacks to reach the junction of the Mount Whitney Trail. Another 1.9 miles had me at the Smithsonian Hut at the summit where I proudly signed my name in the register. It became even more joyful when I saw Michael, Michelle and Milkshake posing for photos nearby. I hadn’t seen them for days, so we hugged and posed for more photos with each other.

Mount Whitney Zone

While not part of the JMT, a hike through the Whitney Zone on the Mount Whitney Trail was unavoidable to return to the Whitney Portal (trailhead) where I’d parked my 4Runner 28 days earlier. Physically drained to the point of stumbling when I arrived at Trail Camp (at 12,000’, the highest camp of the trip) on the descent from the summit, I set up camp next to my Michigan friends as the sun set below the high ridge and storm clouds spit intermittent rain. At dinnertime, we sat in a circle on our bear canisters with our pouches of dehydrated food, along with a few other trail friends, and shared experiences and stories. My heart was full, and I couldn’t have dreamed of a more appropriate way to spend my last evening on the trail.

In the morning, we all broke camp at sunrise, intent on getting to the Whitney Portal Grill at the trailhead (six miles away) so we could enjoy one of their famous breakfasts complete with gargantuan, planet-sized buttermilk pancakes. I got on the trail earliest, and reached the trailhea d fi rst, exultant and relieved to have fi nished with all my appendages attached, although some were in better shape than others. I couldn’t celebrate too long since breakfast service was ending soon. But I got there in time, as did the Michigan family. Like the night before, we all ate together and enjoyed each other’s company unti l fi nally it was time to say goodbye to each other and to the mountain.

Although the adventure took a toll on my body — weight loss (16 pounds), dehydration, swollen joints, blistered lips, severe bruising along my thigh — the wonderful memories, helped by the numerous photos and my writings, and the friendships, are the ones that endure and bring a smile to my face. Despite all the aches and pains, if I could do the entire trail again, I wouldn’t hesitate for a moment. The only regret is that, although I had over 2,600 image fi les to edit, I neglected to take a single photo of any of my friends while on the trail. However, along with Todd, and Becky (now living in Idaho), I’m still friends with Michael, Michelle, and Milkshake and several others I met along the trail.