1AM Issue 28 TURBO

26-YEAR-OLD RACHEL MILLS does new things with denim, cotton, velvet and silk – turning simple shapes and fabrics into 3-D wearability with a twist.

After studying both graphic design and fashion and time working in the pattern department for Karen Walker as well as in retail, Mills felt the time was right to strike out on her own working seriously on her namesake label in 2015.

Why did you start your own brand?

It sounds so cliché, but starting my own brand was what I had always imagined, so for me it was more of a question of when. Designing and creating clothing is what I have always done and what feels the most natural, so being able to live off it is a dream.

Who is your woman? And how do you know what to design for her?

It seems a very selfish way to design, but my woman is often someone I would like to see myself as, or she is someone that inspires me. I am not ashamed to admit that humans are self absorbed, and I am no exception to that. If I can do what I love and be able to find joy in sharing that with others, it is a dream come true. It is a huge motivation to be designing my own ideal wardrobe each season.

What are you favourite fabrics to use and why?

I’m always drawn towards natural fibres more than anything because they provide the most comfort.

The next thing that gets me is the way a fabric reacts over time, ideally for the better. Whether it is a fabric that stays looking beautiful and luxe like a silk or something that takes on a new form after washing and wearing like raw denim or a crunchy cotton poplin.

Although your brand is still very new, do you have any developing signatures?

I like to treat getting dressed as more of a ritual.

We all seem to be in such a rush all the time, and I want to slow down the process. I want my garments to be treated as pieces with substance. This is why I often look towards the way my garments close as an opportunity for interest. Rather than just sticking a zip in, I look at how to enhance the design. In Abyssal, this translates as openings and tying at the pockets, and elasticated enclosures.

What are your inspirations for this current collection?

My collectiion ‘Abyssal’ is the exploration of the unknown. It refers to the part of the ocean that is unexplored and untouched that we can’t quite fathom, where uncertainty turns into something otherworldly. I wanted to twist this idea into a practical Summer uniform, where denim goes with velvet, and silk crepe de chine can be worn daily.