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Chapter One General Information
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Chapter Two Troubleshooting
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Chapter Three Periodic Lubrication, Maintenance & Tune-up
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Chapter Four Engine
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Chapter Five Clutch and Primary Drive
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Chapter Six Transmission
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Chapter Seven Fuel, Exhaust & Emission Control Systems
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Chapter Eight Electrical System
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Chapter Nine Wheels, Hubs & Tires
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Chapter Ten Front Suspension & Steering (Models with Telescopic Front Forks)
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Chapter Eleven Front Suspension & Steering (Springer Front Fork)
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Chapter Twelve Rear Suspension
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Chapter Thirteen Brakes
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Chapter Fourteen Body
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Chapter Fifteen Supplement
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Chapter Sixteen Index
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Chapter Seventeen Wiring Diagrams
NO T at t E: R info he ba efer to mo rmatio ck of the Su Eag dels, n uniq this m pplem en le m inc a u ode ludin e to 20 nual fo t 0 ls. g r Scr 4-2005 eam in’
CHAPTER ONE
GENERAL INFORMATION
This detailed and comprehensive manual covers the Harley-Davidson FLST and FXST Softail Series of motorcycles equipped with the Twin Cam 88B, 95B and 103B engines. The text provides complete information on maintenance, tune-up, repair and overhaul. Hundreds of original photographs and illustrations created during the complete disassembly of the motorcycle guide the reader through every job. All procedures are in step-by-step form and designed for the reader who may be working on the motorcycle for the first time. MANUAL ORGANIZATION A shop manual is a tool and as in all service manuals, the chapters are thumb tabbed for easy reference. Main headings are listed in the table of contents and the index. Frequently used specifications and capacities from the tables at the end of each individual chapter are listed in the Quick Reference Data section at the front of the manual. Specifications and capacities are provided in U.S. standard and metric units of measure. During some of the procedures there will be references to headings in other chapters or sections of the man-
ual. When a specific heading is called out it in a step it will be italicized as it appears in the manual. If a sub-heading is indicated as being “in this section” it is located within the same main heading. For example, the sub-heading Handling Gasoline Safely is located within the main heading SAFETY. This chapter provides general information on shop safety, tools and their usage, service fundamentals and shop supplies. Tables 1-12, at the end of the chapter, list the following: Table 1 lists model designation. Table 2 lists general dimensions. Table 3 lists motorcycle weight. Table 4 lists motorcycle weight ratings. Table 5 lists fuel tank capacity. Table 6 lists decimal and metric equivalents. Table 7 lists general torque specifications. Table 8 lists conversion formulas. Table 9 lists technical abbreviations. Table 10 lists American tap and drill sizes. Table 11 lists Metric tap and drill sizes. Table 12 lists special tools and their part numbers. Chapter Two provides methods for quick and accurate diagnosis of problems. Troubleshooting procedures pres-
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ent typical symptoms and logical methods to pinpoint and repair the problem. Chapter Three explains all routine maintenance necessary to keep the motorcycle running well. Chapter Three also includes recommended tune-up procedures, eliminating the need to constantly consult other chapters on the various assemblies. Subsequent chapters describe specific systems such as engine, transmission, clutch, drive system, fuel and exhaust systems, suspension and brakes. Each disassembly, repair and assembly procedure is given in step-by-step form. WARNINGS, CAUTIONS AND NOTES The terms, WARNING, CAUTION and NOTE have specific meanings in this manual. A WARNING emphasizes areas where injury or even death could result from negligence. Mechanical damage may also occur. WARNINGS are to be taken seriously. A CAUTION emphasizes areas where equipment damage could occur. Disregarding a CAUTION could cause permanent mechanical damage, though injury is unlikely. A NOTE provides additional information to make a step or procedure easier or clearer. Disregarding a NOTE could cause inconvenience, but would not cause equipment damage or personal injury. SAFETY Professional mechanics can work for years and never sustain a serious injury or mishap. Follow these guidelines and practice common sense to safely service the motorcycle. 1. Do not operate the motorcycle in an enclosed area. The exhaust gasses contain carbon monoxide, an odorless, colorless and tasteless poisonous gas. Carbon monoxide levels build quickly in small enclosed areas and can cause unconsciousness and death in a short time. Make sure the work area is properly ventilated or operate the motorcycle outside. 2. Never use gasoline or extremely flammable liquid to clean parts. Refer to Cleaning Parts and Handling Gasoline Safely in this chapter. 3. Never smoke or use a torch in the vicinity of flammable liquids, such as gasoline or cleaning solvent. 4. Before welding or brazing on the motorcycle, remove the fuel tank, carburetor and shocks to a safe distance at least 50 ft. (15 m) away. 5. Use the correct type and size of tools to avoid damaging fasteners.
6. Keep tools clean and in good condition. Replace or repair worn or damaged equipment. 7. When loosening a tight fastener, be guided by what would happen if the tool slips. 8. When replacing fasteners, make sure the new fasteners are the same size and strength as the original ones. 9. Keep the work area clean and organized. 10. Wear eye protection anytime the safety of the eyes is in question. This includes procedures involving drilling, grinding, hammering, compressed air and chemicals. 11. Wear the correct clothing for the job. Tie up or cover long hair so it can not get caught in moving equipment. 12. Do not carry sharp tools in clothing pockets. 13. Always have an approved fire extinguisher available. Make sure it is rated for gasoline (Class B) and electrical (Class C) fires. 14. Do not use compressed air to clean clothes, the motorcycle or the work area. Debris may be blown into the eyes or skin. Never direct compressed air at anyone. Do not allow children to use or play with any compressed air equipment. 15. When using compressed air to dry rotating parts, hold the part so it cannot rotate. Do not allow the force of the air to spin the part. The air jet is capable of rotating parts at extreme speed. The part may be damaged or disintegrate and cause serious injury. 16. Do not inhale the dust created by brake pad and clutch wear. These particles may contain asbestos. In addition, some types of insulating materials and gaskets may contain asbestos. Inhaling asbestos particles is hazardous to health. 17. Never work on the motorcycle while someone is working under it. 18. When placing the motorcycle on a stand, make sure it is secure before walking away. Handling Gasoline Safely Gasoline is a volatile flammable liquid and is one of the most dangerous items in the shop. Because gasoline is used so often, many people forget that it is hazardous. Only use gasoline as fuel for gasoline internal combustion engines. When working on a motorcycle, keep in mind that gasoline is always present in the fuel tank, fuel line and carburetor. To avoid a disastrous accident when working around the fuel system, carefully observe the following precautions: 1. Never use gasoline to clean parts. See Parts Cleaning in this section. 2. When working on the fuel system, work outside or in a well-ventilated area.
GENERAL INFORMATION
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3. Do not add fuel to the fuel tank or service the fuel system while the motorcycle is near open flames, sparks or where someone is smoking. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air, it collects in low areas and is more easily ignited than liquid gasoline. 4. Allow the engine to cool completely before working on any fuel system component. 5. When draining the carburetor, catch the fuel in a plastic container and pour it into an approved gasoline storage devise. 6. Do not store gasoline in glass containers. If the glass breaks, a serious explosion or fire may occur. 7. Immediately wipe up spilled gasoline with rags. Store the rags in a metal container with a lid until they can be properly disposed of, or place them outside in a safe place for the fuel to evaporate. 8. Do not pour water onto a gasoline fire. Water spreads the fire and makes it more difficult to put out. Use a class B, BC or ABC fire extinguisher to extinguish the fire. 9. Always turn off the engine before refueling. Do not spill fuel onto the engine or exhaust system. Do not overfill the fuel tank. Leave an air space at the top of the tank to allow room for the fuel to expand due to temperature fluctuations.
Parts Cleaning Cleaning parts is one of the more tedious and difficult service jobs performed in the home garage. There are many types of chemical cleaners and solvents available for shop use. Most are poisonous and extremely flammable. To prevent chemical exposure, vapor buildup, fire and serious injury, note the following: 1. Read and observe the entire product label before using any chemical. Always know what type of chemical is being used and whether it is poisonous and/or flammable.
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2. Do not use more than one type of cleaning solvent at a time. When mixing chemicals, measure the proper amounts according to the manufacturer. 3. Work in a well-ventilated area. 4. Wear chemical-resistant gloves. 5. Wear safety glasses. 6. Wear a vapor respirator if the instructions call for it. 7. Wash hands and arms thoroughly after cleaning parts. 8. Keep chemical products away from children and pets. 9. Thoroughly clean all oil, grease and cleaner residue from any part that must be heated. 10. Use a nylon brush when cleaning parts. Metal brushes may cause a spark. 11. When using a parts washer, only use the solvent recommended by the manufacturer. Make sure the parts washer is equipped with a metal lid that will lower in case of fire. Warning Labels Most manufacturers attach information and warning labels to the motorcycle. These labels contain instructions that are important to personal safety when operating, servicing, transporting and storing the motorcycle. Refer to the owner’s manual for the description and location of labels. Order replacement labels from the manufacturer if they are missing or damaged. SERIAL NUMBERS Serial numbers are stamped on various locations on the frame, engine, transmission and carburetor. Record these numbers in the Quick Reference Data section in the front of the manual. Have these numbers available when ordering parts. The frame serial number (Figure 1) is stamped on the right side of the frame down tube. The VIN number label (Figure 2) is located just below the frame number on the right side frame down tube. The engine serial number is stamped on a pad on the left side of the crankcase (Figure 3) and the right side of the crankcase (Figure 4). The transmission serial number (Figure 5) is stamped on a pad on the right side of the transmission case next to the side door. The carburetor serial number (Figure 6) is located on the side of the carburetor body next to the accelerator pump linkage. There is no serial number for the fuel injection module. Table 1 lists model designation.
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FASTENERS 2 Proper fastener selection and installation is important to ensure the motorcycle operates as designed and can be serviced efficiently. The choice of original equipment fasteners is not arrived at by chance. Make sure that replacement fasteners meet all the same requirements as the originals. Threaded Fasteners Threaded fasteners secure most of the components on the motorcycle. Most are tightened by turning them clockwise (right-hand threads). If the normal rotation of the component being tightened would loosen the fastener, it may have left-hand threads. If a left-hand threaded fastener is used, it is noted in the text. Two dimensions are required to match the threads of the fastener: the number of threads in a given distance and the outside diameter of the threads.
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CAUTION There are a variety of Metric and American fasteners used on the engine and chassis. Do not interchange fasteners of the incorrect type as the component along with the fastener may be damaged. Two systems are currently used to specify threaded fastener dimensions: the U.S. Standard system and the metric system (Figure 7). Pay particular attention when working with unidentified fasteners; mismatching thread types can damage threads.
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NOTE To ensure the fastener threads are not mismatched or cross-threaded, start all fasteners by hand. If a fastener is hard to start or turn, determine the cause before tightening with a wrench. The length (L, Figure 8), diameter (D) and distance between thread crests (pitch) (T) classify metric screws and bolts. A typical bolt may be identified by the numbers, 8—1.25 × 130. This indicates the bolt has diameter of 8 mm, the distance between thread crests is 1.25 mm and the length is 130 mm. Always measure bolt length as shown in Figure 8 to avoid purchasing replacements of the wrong length. If a number is located on the top of the fastener, (Figure 8) this indicates the strength of the fastener. The higher the number, the stronger the fastener. Generally, unnumbered fasteners are the weakest. Many screws, bolts and studs are combined with nuts to secure particular components. To indicate the size of a
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GENERAL INFORMATION
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WARNING Do not install fasteners with a strength classification lower than what was originally installed by the manufacturer. Doing so may cause equipment failure and/or damage.
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Torque Specifications The materials used in the manufacture of the motorcycle may be subjected to uneven stresses if the fasteners of the various subassemblies are not installed and tightened correctly. Fasteners that are improperly installed or work loose can cause extensive damage. It is essential to use an accurate torque wrench, described in this chapter, with the torque specifications in this manual. Specifications for torque are provided in Newton-meters (N•m), foot-pounds (ft.-lb.) and inch-pounds (in.-lb.). Refer to Table 7 for general torque specifications. To use Table 7, first determine the size of the fastener as described in Threaded Fasteners in this section. Torque specifications for specific components are at the end of the appropriate chapters. Torque wrenches are covered in the Basic Tools section.
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Metric
U.S. Standard
60°
60°
Self-Locking Fasteners Several types of bolts, screws and nuts incorporate a system that creates interference between the two fasteners. Interference is achieved in various ways. The most common type is the nylon insert nut and a dry adhesive coating on the threads of a bolt. Self-locking fasteners offer greater holding strength than standard fasteners, which improves their resistance to vibration. Most self-locking fasteners cannot be reused. The materials used to form the lock become distorted after the initial installation and removal. It is a good practice to discard and replace self-locking fasteners after their removal. Do not replace self-locking fasteners with standard fasteners.
8 T
D
-9.8
Washers L Grade marking
nut, manufacturers specify the internal diameter and the thread pitch. The measurement across two flats on a nut or bolt indicates the wrench size.
There are two basic types of washers: flat washers and lockwashers. Flat washers are simple discs with a hole to fit a screw or bolt. Lockwashers are used to prevent a fastener from working loose. Washers can be used as spacers and seals, or to help distribute fastener load and to prevent the fastener from damaging the component. As with fasteners, when replacing washers, make sure the replacement washers are of the same design and quality.
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Cotter Pins 9 A cotter pin is a split metal pin inserted into a hole or slot to prevent a fastener from loosening. In certain applications, such as the rear axle on an ATV or motorcycle, the fastener must be secured in this way. For these applications, a cotter pin and castellated (slotted) nut is used. To use a cotter pin, first make sure the diameter is correct for the hole in the fastener. After correctly tightening the fastener and aligning the holes, insert the cotter pin through the hole and bend the ends over the fastener (Figure 9). Unless instructed to do so, never loosen a torqued fastener to align the holes. If the holes do not align, tighten the fastener just enough to achieve alignment. Cotter pins are available in various diameters and lengths. Measure length from the bottom of the head to the tip of the shortest pin. Snap Rings and E-clips Snap rings (Figure 10) are circular-shaped metal retaining clips. They are required to secure parts and gears in place on parts such as shafts, pins or rods. External type snap rings are used to retain items on shafts. Internal type snap rings secure parts within housing bores. In some applications, in addition to securing the component(s), snap rings of varying thickness also determine endplay. These are usually called selective snap rings. Two basic types of snap rings are used: machined and stamped snap rings. Machined snap rings (Figure 11) can be installed in either direction, since both faces have sharp edges. Stamped snap rings (Figure 12) are manufactured with a sharp edge and a round edge. When installing a stamped snap ring in a thrust application, install the sharp edge facing away from the part producing the thrust. Remove E-clips with a flat blade screwdriver by prying between the shaft and E-clip. To install an E-clip, center it over the shaft groove and push or tap it into place. Observe the following when installing snap rings: 1. Remove and install snap rings with snap ring pliers. See Snap Ring Pliers in this chapter. 2. In some applications, it may be necessary to replace snap rings after removing them. 3. Compress or expand snap rings only enough to install them. If overly expanded, they lose their retaining ability. 4. After installing a snap ring, make sure it seats completely. 5. Wear eye protection when removing and installing snap rings.
Correct installation of cotter pin
10
Internal snap ring
External snap ring
Plain circlip
E-clip
SHOP SUPPLIES Lubricants and Fluids Periodic lubrication helps ensure a long service life for any type of equipment. Using the correct type of lubricant is as important as performing the lubrication service, although in an emergency the wrong type is better than none. The following section describes the types of lubricants most often required. Make sure to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for lubricant types.
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GENERAL INFORMATION
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11
Directions of thrust
Full support areas
Viscosity is an indication of the oil’s thickness. Thin oils have a lower number while thick oils have a higher number. Engine oils fall into the 5- to 50-weight range for single-grade oils. Most manufacturers recommend multigrade oil. These oils perform efficiently across a wide range of operating conditions. Multigrade oils are identified by a (W) after the first number, which indicates the low-temperature viscosity. Engine oils are most commonly mineral (petroleum) based; however, synthetic and semi-synthetic types are used more frequently. When selecting engine oil, follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for type, classification and viscosity. Greases
12 Rounded edges Sharp edges
Grease is lubricating oil with thickening agents added to it. The National Lubricating Grease Institute (NLGI) grades grease. Grades range from No. 000 to No. 6, with No. 6 being the thickest. Typical multipurpose grease is NLGI No. 2. For specific applications, manufacturers may recommend water-resistant type grease or one with an additive such as molybdenum disulfide (MoS2). Brake fluid
Direction of thrust
Engine oils Engine oil is classified by two standards: the American Petroleum Institute (API) service classification and the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) viscosity rating. This information is on the oil container label. Two letters indicate the API service classification. The number or sequence of numbers and letter (10W-40 for example) is the oil’s viscosity rating. The API service classification and the SAE viscosity index are not indications of oil quality. The service classification indicates that the oil meets specific lubrication standards. The first letter in the classification (S) indicates that the oil is for gasoline engines. The second letter indicates the standard the oil satisfies. Always use an oil with a classification recommended by the manufacturer. Using an oil with a different classification can cause engine damage.
Brake fluid is the hydraulic fluid used to transmit hydraulic pressure (force) to the wheel brakes. Brake fluid is classified by the Department of Transportation (DOT). Current designations for brake fluid are DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5. This classification appears on the fluid container. Each type of brake fluid has its own definite characteristics. The Harley-Davidson Softail uses the silicone based DOT 5 brake fluid. Do not intermix DOT 3 or DOT 4 with DOT 5 type brake fluid as this may cause brake system failure since the DOT 5 brake fluid is not compatible with other brake fluids. When adding brake fluid, only use the fluid recommended by the manufacturer. Brake fluid will damage any plastic, painted or plated surface it contacts. Use extreme care when working with brake fluid and clean up spills immediately with soap and water. Hydraulic brake systems require clean and moisturefree brake fluid. Never reuse brake fluid. Keep containers and reservoirs properly sealed. WARNING Never put a mineral-based (petroleum) oil into the brake system. Mineral oil will cause rubber parts in the system to swell and
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break apart, resulting in complete brake failure.
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Cleaners, Degreasers and Solvents Many chemicals are available to remove oil, grease and other residue from the motorcycle. Before using cleaning solvents, consider how they will be used and disposed of, particularly if they are not water-soluble. Local ordinances may require special procedures for the disposal of many types of cleaning chemicals. Refer to Safety and Parts Cleaning in this chapter for more information on their use. To clean brake system components, use brake parts cleaner. Petroleum-based products will damage brake system seals. Brake parts cleaner leaves no residue. Use electrical contact cleaner to clean electrical connections and components without leaving any residue. Carburetor cleaner is a powerful solvent used to remove fuel deposits and varnish from fuel system components. Use this cleaner carefully, as it may damage finishes. Generally, degreasers are strong cleaners used to remove heavy accumulations of grease from engine and frame components. Most solvents are designed to be used in a parts washing cabinet for individual component cleaning. For safety, use only nonflammable or high flash point solvents. Gasket Sealant Sealants are used with a gasket or seal and are occasionally used alone. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation when using sealants. Use extreme care when choosing a sealant different from the type originally recommended. Choose sealants based on their resistance to heat and various fluids, and their sealing capabilities. One of the most common sealants is RTV, or room temperature vulcanizing sealant. This sealant cures at room temperature over a specific time period. This allows the repositioning of components without damaging gaskets. Moisture in the air causes the RTV sealant to cure. Always install the tube cap as soon as possible after applying RTV sealant. RTV sealant has a limited shelf life and will not cure properly if the shelf life has expired. Keep partial tubes sealed and discard them if they have surpassed the expiration date. Applying RTV sealant Clean all old gasket residue from the mating surfaces. Remove all gasket material from blind threaded holes; it
can cause inaccurate bolt torque. Spray the mating surfaces with aerosol parts cleaner and wipe with a lint-free cloth. The area must be clean for the sealant to adhere. Apply RTV sealant in a continuous bead 2-3 mm (0.08-0.12 in.) thick. Circle all the fastener holes unless otherwise specified. Do not allow any sealant to enter these holes. Assemble and tighten the fasteners to the specified torque within the time frame recommended by the RTV sealant manufacturer.
Gasket Remover Aerosol gasket remover can help remove stubborn gaskets. This product can speed up the removal process and prevent damage to the mating surface that may be caused by using a scraping tool. Most of these types of products are very caustic. Follow the gasket remover manufacturer’s instructions for use.
Threadlocking Compound A threadlocking compound is a fluid applied to the threads of fasteners. After the fastener is tightened, the fluid dries and becomes a solid filler between the threads. This makes it difficult for the fastener to work loose from vibration, or heat expansion and contraction. Some threadlocking compounds also provide a seal against fluid leakage. Before applying threadlocking compound, remove any old compound from both thread areas and clean them with aerosol parts cleaner. Use the compound sparingly. Excess fluid can run into adjoining parts. Threadlocking compounds are available in different strengths. Follow the particular manufacturer’s recommendations regarding compound selection. A number of manufacturers offer a wide range of threadlocking compounds for various strength, temperature and repair applications.
GENERAL INFORMATION
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Screwdrivers 14 Screwdrivers of various lengths and types are mandatory for the simplest tool kit. The two basic types are the slotted tip (flat blade) and the Phillips tip. These are available in sets that often include an assortment of tip sizes and shaft lengths. As with all tools, use a screwdriver designed for the job. Make sure the size of the tip conforms to the size and shape of the fastener. Use them only for driving screws. Never use a screwdriver for prying or chiseling metal. Repair or replace worn or damaged screwdrivers. A worn tip may damage the fastener, making it difficult to remove. BASIC TOOLS Torx Drivers Most of the procedures in this manual can be carried out with simple hand tools and test equipment familiar to the home mechanic. Always use the correct tools for the job at hand. Keep tools organized and clean. Store them in a tool chest with related tools organized together. Some of the procedures in this manual specify special tools. In most cases, the tool is illustrated in use. Well-equipped mechanics may be able to substitute similar tools or fabricate a suitable replacement. In some cases, specialized equipment or expertise may make it impractical for the home mechanic to attempt the procedure. Such operations are identified in the text with the recommendation to have a dealership or specialist perform the task. It may be less expensive to have a professional perform these jobs, especially when considering the cost of the equipment. Quality tools are essential. The best are constructed of high-strength alloy steel. These tools are light, easy to use and resistant to wear. Their working surface is devoid of sharp edges and the tool is carefully polished. They have an easy-to-clean finish and are comfortable to use. Quality tools are a good investment. When purchasing tools to perform the procedures covered in this manual, consider the tool’s potential frequency of use. If starting a tool kit, consider purchasing a basic tool set (Figure 13) from a large tool supplier. These sets are available in many tool combinations and offer substantial savings when compared to individually purchased tools. As work experience grows and tasks become more complicated, specialized tools can be added. The models covered in this manual use both U.S. Standard and metric fasteners. Make sure the correct type of tool is used.
Many of the components on the Harley-Davidson models covered in this manual are secured with internal Torx fasteners. These fasteners require specific Torx drivers for removal and installation. These fasteners reduce cam-out and fastener damage, and allow high torque transmission due to the complete enclosure of the driver within the fastener. Torx screwdrivers in individual sizes, or screwdrivers that accept various bit sizes are available. However, the most practical application is a Torx bit set that accepts various drive types and sizes. A typical set contains T-10 through T40 bits that accept 1/4 and 3/8 in. drive attachments. Wrenches Open-end, box-end and combination wrenches (Figure 14) are available in a variety of types and sizes. The number stamped on the wrench refers to the distance between the work areas. This size must match the size of the fastener head. The box-end wrench is an excellent tool because it grips the fastener on all sides. This reduces the chance of the tool slipping. The box-end wrench is designed with either a 6- or 12-point opening. For stubborn or damaged fasteners, the 6-point provides superior holding ability by contacting the fastener across a wider area at all six edges. For general use, the 12-point works well. It allows the wrench to be removed and reinstalled without moving the handle over such a wide arc. An open-end wrench is fast and works best in areas with limited overhead access. It contacts the fastener at only two points, and is subject to slipping under heavy force, or if the tool or fastener is worn. A box-end wrench is preferred in most instances, especially when breaking a fastener loose and applying the final tightness to a fastener.
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The combination wrench has a box-end on one end and an open-end on the other. This combination makes it a very convenient tool.
15
Adjustable Wrenches An adjustable wrench or Crescent wrench (Figure 15) can fit nearly any nut or bolt head that has clear access around its entire perimeter. Adjustable wrenches are best used as a backup wrench to keep a large nut or bolt from turning while the other end is being loosened or tightened with a box-end or socket wrench. Adjustable wrenches contact the fastener at only two points, which makes them more subject to slipping off the fastener. The fact that one jaw is adjustable and may loosen only aggravates this shortcoming. Make certain the solid jaw is the one transmitting the force.
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Socket Wrenches, Ratchets and Handles Sockets that attach to a ratchet handle (Figure 16) are available with 6-point (A, Figure 17) or 12-point (B) openings and different drive sizes. The drive size indicates the size of the square hole that accepts the ratchet handle. The number stamped on the socket is the size of the work area and must match the fastener head. As with wrenches, a 6-point socket provides superior holding ability, while a 12-point socket needs to be moved only half as far to reposition it on the fastener. Sockets are designated for either hand or impact use. Impact sockets are made of thicker material for more durability. Compare the size and wall thickness of a 19-mm hand socket (A, Figure 18) and the 19-mm impact socket (B). Use impact sockets when using an impact driver or air tools. Use hand sockets with hand-driven attachments.
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WARNING Do not use hand sockets with air or impact tools as they may shatter and cause injury. Always wear eye protection when using impact or air tools. 18 Various handles are available for sockets. The speed handle is used for fast operation. Flexible ratchet heads in varying lengths allow the socket to be turned with varying force, and at odd angles. Extension bars allow the socket setup to reach difficult areas. The ratchet is the most versatile. It allows the user to install or remove the nut without removing the socket. Sockets combined with any number of drivers make them undoubtedly the fastest, safest and most convenient tool for fastener removal and installation.
GENERAL INFORMATION
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Impact Driver 19 An impact driver provides extra force for removing fasteners by converting the impact of a hammer into a turning motion. This makes it possible to remove stubborn fasteners without damaging them. Impact drivers and interchangeable bits (Figure 19) are available from most tool suppliers. When using a socket with an impact driver, make sure the socket is designed for impact use. Refer to Socket Wrenches, Ratchets and Handles in this section.
20
WARNING Do not use hand sockets with air or impact tools as they may shatter and cause injury. Always wear eye protection when using impact or air tools. Allen Wrenches Allen or setscrew wrenches (Figure 20) are used on fasteners with hexagonal recesses in the fastener head. These wrenches are available in L-shaped bar, socket and T-handle types. Most motorcycles are equipped with metric fasteners. Allen bolts are sometimes called socket bolts. Torque Wrenches
21
22
A torque wrench (Figure 21) is used with a socket, torque adapter or similar extension to tighten a fastener to a measured torque. Torque wrenches come in several drive sizes (1/4, 3/8, ½ and 3/4) and have various methods of reading the torque value. The drive size indicates the size of the square drive that accepts the socket, adapter or extension. Common methods of reading the torque value are the deflecting beam, the dial indicator and the audible click . When choosing a torque wrench, consider the torque range, drive size and accuracy. The torque specifications in this manual indicate the range required. A torque wrench is a precision tool that must be properly cared for to remain accurate. Store torque wrenches in cases or separate padded drawers within a toolbox. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for their care and calibration. Torque Adapters Torque adapters or extensions extend or reduce the reach of a torque wrench. The torque adapter shown in Figure 22 is used to tighten a fastener that cannot be reached due to the size of the torque wrench head, drive and socket. If a torque adapter changes the effective lever length (Figure 23), the torque reading on the wrench will not equal the actual torque applied to the fastener. It is nec-
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